Stock 1600 Aircooled Engine Upgrades - Best Performance Mods For Your Money. VW Bug Exhaust & Carbs
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2024
- Stock 1600 Engine Upgrades - Best Performance Mods For Your Money. VW Bug Engine Exhaust & Carbs. In this Video I talk about the best Engine upgrades for a Stock 1600 Volkswagen Beetle/Bus, delivering the best performance for the least money spent.
0:00 Intro
1:46 Inlet Manifold
5:00 Carburettor
8:15 Exhaust
Single Quiet Pack Exhaust (Stainless and None Stainless)
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USA/World - ebay.us/CxNDYL
Stainless Merged Header
UK - ebay.us/uSdv4D
USA/WORLD - ebay.us/6roYcs
WOW prices have gone up, or I'm getting old! LOL
Stainless J Tubes
UK - ebay.us/tMyIt4
USA/WORLD - ebay.us/phenv2
J Tubes ALL
UK - ebay.us/kxhByK
USA/WORLD - ebay.us/KEq77U
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I would also recommend installing Pertronics electronic ignition with appropriate coil which I found to be one of the best upgrades I have ever done to my Beatle. My current Beetle is a 1974 Superbug that I have had and driven since 1982. It puts a smile on my face every time I drive it. I just wanted to add that I also have dual 34 Webber carburettors, merged extractors and a high pressure oil pump with a screw in oil filter. Which also adds to a nicer driving experience.
Funny you should bring that up. It's on my list to do a video on, I need to get my carbs rebuilt and setup first and the engine running b4 I can do it properly though. Great advice thanks 😊👍
100%
thanks for that
Don't believe the manufacturers hype.
A couple of hundred spent for a 1 or 2 per cent hp boost if you're lucky compared to points!
I've done both and if I could go back in time would just put the money towards a nice Michelin tyre instead.
@@johncollins5552 hi John, Having driven a Beatle and type 3 wagon now for 50 years, I just find points to be a pain to maintain. My cars have also run better and timing seems to keep longer. I would really say there’s any performance benefit other than the car stays in tune longer. Thanks for your comment regards Paul
I've been working on the air cooled engines professionally for 40 years, this is one of the most sensible motivational videos I've seen. I've done allsorts of mad stuff but always come back to the simple, easy to drive but with a bit more fun. I run a 1600 with an aftermarket management system on it (which actually cost less than twin 40s). I easily got 75hp, a 50% increase and got another 10mpg.
Awesome feedback thanks dude and for the kind words. Can I ask what management system you are running pls? 😊👍
@@PeoplesCar we were using the management that came with it, ie the late Mexican beetles had a factory management system. A friend modified this so we didnt have to rewire the car. We did think of using the likes of mega squirt etc but would have had to start the map from scratch. That was doable but we needed something quick at the time. It actually came out of a bay window camper. That we converted for a customer, but he wanted to tow a caravan as well so that later sprouted another 2 cylinders from a 911. Hence us having the 1600 injected unit. We later realized that the Mexican engines had low compression pistons to run on paraffin. So an improvement was easy, higher compression pistons made a difference to fuel consumption more than power if I'm honest. For those wanting more power and much better handling a friend was making at the time, chassis to allow boxster running gear and suspension to be used under standard beetle body ( hes not making em anymore unfortunatly)
@@andrewhiggins8873 cool. I've been on the look out for a FI setup from Mexico bug but that stuff is pretty rare here in the UK. One day lol Tx 😊👍
It seems you are using the D-Jetronic system? My beetle has the L-Jetronic system and bosch just stopped selling the parts for it. Are new parts easy to buy for the D-Jetronic system? Are you planning on switching to another system in the future?
Hopefully he will update this or the other reply 😊👍
Years ago I had a 68 Bus/Camper that had a stock 1600...I heard about a guy that was a master VW mech that lived in the coastal mountains
of Oregon. It was totally 'word of mouth' business. I took the Bus to him and was not surprised with an unfriendly greeting because
of the strong smell of weed. After a few minutes of chit chat he mellowed out and we got along fine.
He had an amazing shop in his barn and he agreed to rebuild my 1600 and add dual Webers and an Extractor. It was really mind blowing the difference it made. I no longer had to shift down going over hills near my home.
And got a great story to boot 😊👍
I had a 2110cc in my Splitty, engle 100 cam, 041 heads and twin 36 dellortos (probably around 110hp) and it was perfect. It didn't even notice hills any more and the fuel economy was WAY better than the stock 1600cc that came out of it as it was completely unstressed. I could drive to work and barely use more than a 1/4 of the throttle travel.
Yeah my mate is a big advocate for dells. Going to be interesting to see how his new setup does in terms of performance and mpg. That's a 1600 with 36's on. He agreed to do a vid with me when the car is back on road, so we will see 😊👍
You did the smart thing and didn't over cam the motor, A mild cam in a big motor is a wonderful thing to drive daily. 👍👍👍👍
@@rickstine7107 fully agree. It depends I guess if you want something to rev or a relaxed torquey drive. Ran a 110 on the 1776 and that was fun but I used to drive that engine hard. There is definitely something to be said for keeping it low down and I think how I'd keep future projects. Thanks for watching 😊👍
Exhaust first. I found it increases torque and mileage. It was enough that I never did anything else.
My mates old 1300 used to run great and performance wise little between that and a 1600, just lost out on the hills. All he changed was the exhaust to an under wing single quiet pack style setup. 😊👍
I built a 1600 DP back in the day (circa 1995-1996) for my '65 Bug. It was totally stock except for an Engle 100 cam, dual "Baby Dells" Dellorto carbs, Bosch 009 & EMPI header. It was mated to the stock '65 6V trans w/4.38 R&P and was a blast to drive. The engine's longevity could've benefitted from a counterweighted crankshaft and hi-rev springs. A 3-angle valve job and lightened FW would also have certainly up'd the engine's acceleration and overall performance. It doesn't take much to wake up an otherwise stock 1600 (paraphrasing the great Gene Berg, RIP).
Great info thanks for your comment. Sounds like a fun motor. Wish I'd stayed engle 100 over 110 with one of my motors, a little more pep lower down makes for a nicer engine to drive. Thanks for watching 😊👍
10 OUT OF 10 VERY GOOD JOB, I DID THAT TO MY 1600 , AND EXACTLY THE SAME THING., AND I AM SO HAPPY😊 CHEERS 😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
Amazing feed back thankyou 😊👍
Don't own my beach buggy anymore but we got a 1600 Volkspares engine put some twin empi kadron carbs and dual cannon exhaust once tuned and balanced after warm up it went like shit off a shovel and gave good initial pull away to a steady keep up with modern day traffic on A roads acceleration was good loved it
The only problem with the Cannon exhausts is youbdont take advantage of gas scavenging as you would with a fully merged equal length header, as they are sided on the engine, they do sound badass however! 😊👍
Neen toying with the idea of making an unequal length merged header, as this is why subarus have that burble. Need to find some specs and time first tho 😅
1641cc
Weber 34
Quiet pack
Pertronix coil and distributor
Excellent talk on exhaust/carbs. Thank you for the explanation, just shared with a group that was asking about this.
Great stuff thanks, hope it helps 😊👍
Good talk brother. Couldn't disagree with anything, summed up my experiences with the 1600 engine perfrectly.
Tx dude 😊👍
Thank you very much,very informative, getting ready to start on my last project 72 vw van
My pleasure, thanks for the kind words. Last? Surely you mean latest, projects never end when you have the bug 😳😅👍
Thanks for the video! I saw the link on Facebook earlier and took mental note... then of course the facebook algorithm ate it. Been searching for about an hour and finally found it!! Worth the look, thank you and subscribed!
Brill thankyou 🙂👍 FB is annoying, often I will start looking at something and then it refreshes and disappears into the abyss of ads and people's dinners 😅
Great video, your approach to everything is very much appreciated
Thanks for watching and the kind words. 😊👍
Cheers big Al, so much useful information in this video.
Tx dude glad it helped 🙂👍
Currently I have a set of 40's on my 1600 stock motor, and it's over carbureted. A cold start is extremely difficult (even in Arizona) and like you said, I get very poor performance at low RPM's with some occasional carb backfiring. I think I'll order a set of 34's and save the 40's for my nearly complete 1915cc with 9.1/1 compression, a 110 cam and 1¼ ratio rockers.
Sounds like a plan! Wish I'd gone 1915 instead of 1776! 😊😊👍
Agreed, except on the 4:1 header exhaust system. I dont like these 4:1 header exhaust systems - performance yes, but low clearance and bad look on the Beetle. There do exist stock-like dyno-proven performance exhaust systems like Custom Speed Parts High-Flow Exhaust, Vintage Speed Exhaust, Tri-Mill Exhaust (though slightly loud) etc. I had both 4:1 header exhaust system and CSP High-Flow Exhaust on a mildly tuned 1600cc/ 80hp engine and I prefer CSP High-Flow Exhaust all the way - much better stock-like look, much better clearance, excellent sound and excellent performance (no noticeable performance difference to the 4:1 header system). Even Salzburg Rally Beetles 1600/Gr2 from early 70s were using a modified stock exhaust system with an 125hp engine.
Interesting I didn't know that. I don't have experience of those systems but definitely something worth looking into. Thanks for your extensive reply 😊👍
My experience is that an electronic distributor only advantage over stock is easier starting and less maintenance but they can go through rotors quicker. A tiny gain in hp if any for the substantial money so I recommend spend that money instead on 8mm silicon ignition leads instead.
Yeah I've personally never used one but I guess it's the easy maintenance option, well till it breaks LOL 😊👍
I’ve put together a 1776 with a slightly reground cam, 043 big stainless valve heads, dual 36 Dellortos, an 1 1/2” sidewinder header from A-1, and a Pat Downs Performance Shockwave ignition system and it runs like a dream without any struggle or issues
Nice one sounds like fun. Thanks for the info 😊👍
The original VW muffler system actually has equal lenght headers as the "short" tubes are longer inside the muffler. And when assembling those chromed "flutes", it is important to assemble them exactly to the right depht or the performance is lost. That is because the manifold heating tube inside the muffler has to be exactly right to the flute; pushing the flute as far it goes connects those two and the exhaust comes practically only from the other flute, and only those exhaust gases that go through the thin preheat tube can come out from the other flute.
Of course, the aftermarket "original" ones are usually cheaply made and do not have anything mentioned before. My 1600 has Pertronix, twin 34:s, merged headers, eight pin flywheel connection, remote oil filter, cam, cranc with balance weights, so it is quick and can withstand rews. The car is Bonito kit body. 73-chassis, so I added that cross-leaf to control the rear, and as it now has more grip than the front, just adding there the camber adjusting parts to get it slightly minus. I think that I have spent enough to Paruzzi to get a Christmas card from them...
Oh wow really I didn't know that. I've never seen inside a genuine silencer so didn't know that, good to know thankyou 👍. Sounds like you have a sweet ride there 😊. Wide wheels, drop spindles, uprated ARB, IRS rear and its a very stable package both in a straight line and on the bends. Thanks for the great info 😊👍
Awesome video!
Tx dude 👍
In my experience Pertronics electronic ignition to replace the points, Bosch blue coil, bosch 009 distruibutor 32-36 webber progressive carb or a pair 40mm kadrons work well on a 1600 twin port. lighten the fly wheel for more acceleration.
Thanks for your advice 😊👍
Spot on info! Thank you.
Great stuff. Tx for watching 😊👍
Great information, Thank you.
My pleasure to for watching 😊👍
I have twin Scat 34'.s on my 1600 twin port when they were first fitted, they used to ice up solid, so much so the throttle would not shut off. Had to have them set up on a rolling road and re jetted to cure it😃
Really wow. Are the scat carbs bases on Dells or Webbers or their own design? Do you know what was changed in the setup that changed the icing issue? Many thanks 😊👍
@PeoplesCar based on webber I believe, fuel air mix was way off, needed full adjustment
@@smerd1 crazy, first time I've heard of that in I assume a moderate climate. Its cold here but not seen that b4. Trying to work out which would be worse, a lean setup or rich setup. Anyone know?
I know my van was rich and that iced with my custom seup in cold temps, but not sure if leaning it out would have helped? Tx for the info 😊👍
Nice information. 👍
Thanks 🙂👍
Great informative video. I got duel 34icts 12 years ago and they were more than £300 then, they've since doubled in price, for the real webers at least. I'd also say no carbs you get will bolt on and run well, they require correct jetting and emulsion tubes etc.
Thanks dude 😊👍 I must say I had a quick look after the video and they do seem a bit thin on the ground atm at least here in the UK. Thanks for the message 👍
Its been decades sincevi was intetested in VW power but eberything youve stated here makes sense
Thankyou 😊👍
i love watching theses videos
Thanks dude 😊👍
Very good info. I have been driving bugs off and on since “74 and have tried raising the h.p. in very modest ways. Maybe I’ll push things now on the “68 now that my back is to worn out for my Harley.
Know that feeling been creaking for the last week! LOL Tjanks for the feedback and best of luck with the 68! 😊👍
I have a 1302 1285cc currently under restoration.
Using the same engine case, i am going for 1641cc piston, changed Solex 31 to original Weber progressive carb and 1.6L heads wnd aftermarket stainless steel equal length exhaust like yours (before merge exhaust)
Design to be a great highway cruiser and i am looking forward for the complwtion of the restoration!!
Cool. Do you have any concerns about single pressure release for oil or have you looked into this? I'm not sure why but I heard can be an issue. Don't see why it would be but happy to be educated. Maybe it's just when increasing the engines ability to rev much higher which your not really, in fact will have to rev it less hard on the hills 😊👍
Duel relief cases have larger oil passages.
@@gaspuppygarage3782 I did know that. So is the potential problem increased heat with reduced flow to the cooler?
@PeoplesCar no not really. The potential problem is getting enough oil to your mains and rod bearing in upper rpm ranges. Keep your engine well below the 6k rpm range and youll be fine. Also a note is the single relief cases themselves are of lower strength than the dual relief cases so if you think you can build a 200hp big bore stroker and think the case wont eventually crack then your fooling yourself. My opinion is build a 90.5x78mm 2 litre keep it mild and enjoy the much better torque from the mild bore and stroke..
@@gaspuppygarage3782 If all doing is increasing CC then in theory it's not going to be revving any higher than it was before the conversion, why I assumed the issue was heat rather than lubrication. Absolutely agree about bigger build size and case. I personally built a 1776 but in hind sight wish had used 94mm for a 1915, minimal upgrade in cost over 90.5 for the increased performance. Not sure woukd have got away with stock valve sizes tho so have to consider addition cost of heads to maximise the gains. Thanks for your input. 😊👍
I took my cases apart and clearanced the cases for a 76mm counterbalanced crankshaft, race con rods,110 camshaft, big valve race cylinder heads, electronic ignition, twin 34 Weber carbs,stinger exhaust,Kennedy stage 1 clutch,12lb flywheel,remote oil filter on the rolling road it’s 1850cc and 150 bhp, ust finishing a 2.4 for my sons street legal drag race car the black widow.
Awesome that sounds like a lot of fun! 😁👍
always more lift for more breathing ..add ratio rocker from 1.25-1.50 , but remember more wear and tear the higher ratio on valve guides , port polish if torn apart . better carburation. better spark to burn off most lower octane ..
Yup great advice there. I diy ported my heads and have 1:1.25 rockers bit was keeping things simple in this vid, most bang for buck. Maybe it's time for part 2? 🤔👍
@@PeoplesCar . hello, my little mouse motor of 2276cc was built in 1984 tore it down in 2004 had 253k miles did go from dual 40mm DRLA to single power loss there but went A/C and to a single DRLA with the dolphin top alum case and 4340 moly crank. used the same Total seal rings have alot of miles but no leak down worth the money since 1984 .rods were shot ping from claudes buggies was a Dellorto dealer . still like them easy to maintain . will see if 253k miles are a future or turbo charge it still .pulls out of 3rd gear so much torque but low comp. and 38 mpg interstate 23 mpg in city but lately i keep my foot on it too many people think it has no power LOL running 3.88 R?P with a 14 gallon petrol tank Jeff Gordon bought me since a company i worked at built race car frames for him to sell and drive in the 90's nice guy .he said he had a beetle short guy was the reason... the heads were all ported thats what i do.. run warm plugs and MSD6A better spark on poop petrol ..waiting for lower petrol prices again so i can afford 91 more often .i notice alot of difference ...Meep Meep
@@eyecam286 wow some great info there! I didn't know they did Ali cases all that time ago, and 253k!! Don't think I've heard of any bug motor running that mileage lol. How did you find the single 40 to set up? I have a single 36 drla waiting to go on my 58 as dontveant the dual fight and not prepared to cut the Inner wings, but was told are tricky to get set up for both low and top end. I'll have to look up the msd6a plugs. Not heard of them. Most peeps I've been speaking to recently suggest NGK rather than bosch. Are the msd for use with the msd electronic ignition and booster or good for a stock setup? Many thanks 😊👍
1,6 ration rockers for an aircooled? they dont exist
@@krusher74 I assumed he meant 1.4:1 and was a typo. Shouldn't be using 1.4s on a stock motor tho. 😊👍
Thanks very much for the down to Earth approach of explaining things. I've just bought a 1302 with a 1300 AB 44hp engine, would the recommendations made in this video still apply to it? Especially the carburetors. Thanks again!
I knew someone with a 1300 that used a gas flowed exhaust setup and a stock carb and although he used to rev the engine to within an inch of its life performed very well and was alongside his mates in his 1600 on all but the hills. I don't think it's common to increase carburation for 1300s, I ASSUME as it's not as much of a restriction for fuel/air as 1600, so the gains would be smaller also. So just talking from personal experience I may look at exhaust changes but probably not the carbs, but that's just seeing how bugs have run over the years and my opinion. Also depends how hard you want to rev your motor. Hope that helps 😊👍
Back in the days on my 1600 besides carbs and exhaust i also used 1:25 rockers on the stock cam
I've had a pair on my shelf for 15 years! LOL. I know are a good mod but never actually fitted set, so didn't want to recommend without first hand knowledge of how it alters performance.
Thanks for watching 😊👍
Supercharger, cam and EFI.......ok, supercharger and EFI. Boost is your friend.....overcomes all the smallness of port, cam, etc.
Oh, add a low restriction exhaust that doesnt lose the heater boxes.
Might find this interesting... th-cam.com/video/6bJYJ_v88tI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=2JFeFmPUdlQBYsmR Tx for watching 😊👍
I've got a 74 1600 I used on my trike. The bug was just too far gone. I use a Weber progressive carb, along with the petronics electronic ignition and a set of glass packs for the exhaust. It has been working great for me for years
I've seen a few people using the 32/36, I have one myself from a 2.0 CU tho it's a bag of crap empi that doesn't work lol. I think the biggest complaint is the adjustment screws are tight up to the fan house because of the orientation of the carb on a bug. Obviously you still get a slight throttle delay but I it works for you then great! Tx for watching and your feedback 😊👍
@@PeoplesCar
The 3236 is an EMPI copy of the original Weber. And I haven't had any trouble. But you're absolutely right off the adjustment screws being in a piss-poor location. Also the location of the electric choke sucks. I've had that ground out on the fan housing. I use a small one inch square piece of plexiglass about eighth of an inch thick glued it right there on the fan housing so the choke won't round out
@@Kv-pk2st I have no idea why they don't make a small stepper just to offset from the housing a fraction. Money a guess or maybe just won't go under the lid if they did. 👍
@@PeoplesCar
Lol it's always money.👍
Where performance and common sense meet.
Thanks for watching 😊👍
Cool channel, new to beetle moddings. Realistically, how far can you take a 1600cc from its "original" 40 bhp with these 34mm EPCs and aftermarket exhaust? Just trying to figure out what to expect and which way to go.
You can go crazy far if you want to and do most thing you would do to a drag motor...... but there would be little point imho. You'd spend a fortune for little return. Assuming this is for a regular driven bug, I personally think upping it to 1641 with fresh barrels and pistons/rings, set of dual carbs and decent exhaust would be as far as I would go. It's a tried and tested package that will give you a decent drivable motor on hills and motorway and be reliable to boot. If looking for ultimate power inho save for a bigger setup with internal mods while being built to take advantage of that extra capacity. Here in the UK the cost of a high spec VW motor is getting quite costly, dare I say it Alt Engine is becoming more and more popular not with lots of companies providing kits to do it relatively easily. You could have a 130-50 bhp scoob 2.2i ej22 motor in your big with minimal work and for the fraction of the cost. Worth considering if your power hungry! LOL. Check out my first few vids on Beefcake. Are a little dated now but I run through the EJ setups 😊👍 Here is the first vid. This and the next 2 are the main scoob build ones. I wouldn't recommend what I have done, keep it simple. Small Rad up front. Twin cam out back. Basically as I had it, till I went totally mental! 😅th-cam.com/video/_HlmegTDu_4/w-d-xo.html
Outstanding videos! I’m new to VW Bug ownership, and need all the help I can get!
I’ve got a single port (solex pict 30) 1500CC , with Autostick. Would you recommend a dual carb setup for it as well? Which size carbs would fit it, if so?
Thanks dude very kind of you! Wow 1500 SA must be pretty rare now at least here in the UK? Your not going to get the same gains in performance being single port but imagine there would be some. Would need single port manifolds too with any dual carb setup. However the 1500SP motor is pretty bullet proof because of restricted breathing and maybe I'm just old fashioned but would be tempted to keep it that way. Also being an auto I imagine the speed of pickup would be less noticeable, but not really sure as never owned one. Just because of the car it is, if is running well I don't think I would personally change it. Sorry boring answer 😅 Beds of luck 😊👍
Thinking of making some cheery bombs fit ive got knocking about..trying to tune an old 1200cc
There is a setup called a Euro Twin Tuck (I believe) a mate used to run which is basically that, and that sounded awesome on his 1600. Because of the reduced width on a 1200 would probably have to modify it to fit a 1200 tho. The old Kadron setup was effectively a single cherry bomb, but that one was stupid loud and imho not in a nice way! LOL. For a 1200 I would highly recommend keeping the stock back box and fitting a Zoom Tube. They are relatively inexpensive...... or were, loud...but not too loud, look pretty, and when I was a teenager I loved the sound of mine in my 1200 motor. Makes you want to drive it so hard you end up dropping a valve! 😅👍
Hi I have a question about the merge header, can you still use the tin that goes by the crank pulley
Sorry for delay I wanted to double check 1st. On my engines I have used both the tin that seals the engine bay between the pulley and Valance, and also the tin below the pulley. Is it these ones you mean? Should be no prob if so. Hope that helps 😊👍
I have a dual carb setup still have too put on the motor. The carbs are 30 something in size. Exhaust is a stinger. Distributor is a empi street curve. The carbs needs too be serviced.
I've got dual 34s on my mostly stock 1600 dual port. I can't get it tuned quite right, definelty lumpy idle but smooths out once warm, my main issue is sputtering at top end
My mate Cris the carb man says most likely is unbalanced linkage, so one carb is opening more than the other, and that spluntering at top end is often jetting.
Personally I would check carb opening as above. Ensure have decent fuel pressure, repro pump diaphrams can fail causing low pressure before complete failure. I assume you have the balance pipe between the carbs fitted? My old 34 had one at least. Problems like this unfortunately can be many or multiple things, a real pain sometimes to nail down! Best of luck. 😊👍
for bolt ons I recurve a stock dist , a set of ict webers with tall manifolds not those crap shortys! And dont forget a decent quality single quiet pack exhaust ! On my 69 daily driver I went from 26 mpg on the hwy and 80 mpg to almost 35mpg amd 102 mph top speed!!! Movin baby!!!!!!!
They are impressive figures wow! 80 are you sure? 😳 I'm not sure how you recurve the dizzy, going to have to look into that now! LOL. Thanks for the info 🙂👍
Weber ICT twins, very reliable and with very high gas prices , thus will give great miser mileage.
@@erwinsm10 Absolutely agree. Thanks for your feedback 🙂👍
@@PeoplesCar He meant 80 MPH. Had me tossed for a minute. Great video thanks.
@@markd5548 Oh yeah it's really obvious when you re read it but I never clocked 😅
I run empi dual 34 carburetor on my 1600 then went to 1641 with my dual 34 carburetor
Nice Bro Totally Agree keep it Simple , be Humble Like the Bug was Intended a we the peoples Car
Too Much Bragging and Trying too sell you stuff you Don"t Need on the Interwebs
Thanks
Thanks for the kind words. Much as I love my big HP subaru bug it's always a compromise on practicality and that chilled enjoyment there is in something stock-ish. Can't wait to get my next aircooled project rolling and life in the slow-er lane 😊👍
@@PeoplesCar yeah I just checked out your Subaru Vid would have too be the Ultimate power house bug , heaps of Fun that one
Wish we were All millionairs hey
Cheers bro , keep it up keeping these old cars on the road
@@briansmythe3000 @briansmythe3000 People often ask me (after asking what kind of car it is! Really 🙄) 'How much did that cost you mate?' My answer is always the same.... 25 years! 😅 There is more to life than money and am very lucky to have what I do. Hopefully some of the vids will help others keep them alive too. Thanks for watching 😊👍
Thanks for the great video and information, I've got twin Weber 34's on my 1600, next step is to sort the exhaust - but I would like to retain the duel exits exhausts in the rear valance - I've looked around and can't see any 4-1 merged exhausts that do this to the degree that you mention in the video - do you or anybody know of any? The closest I can see is one made by SSP (The SSP 2 Tip GT exhaust) but not sure if there would still be the restriction where the gasses go in the rear silencer?
Any / all help appreciated!
I'll be honest I don't know of any merged headers that exit where the stock muffler die6s. Vintage speed have some sexy trick setups but unsure how the gas flows through these, and are quite pricey. Even worse but many of the merged setups sound like poo or look poo also! Kind of annoying.
Does anyone know if any gas flowed stock looking setups?
Could look at fitting blanks in the valance cut outs and using an under wins setup?
Thanks
My pleasure tx for watching 😊👍
Bone stock 1600
Electronic ignition
34 webbers or 40/44 Cadrons
1 3/8 merge header.
Maybe reduce deck height to .050"
Thats pretty much as far as you can take it.
Dont waste your money on heads until you at minimum install a more aggressive cam .
Totally agree. GL 😊👍
The 1679 recommended engine built with 69 bore stroke, 88mm displacement requires 90.5 head. Does all of these fits in the 1600 case and, or requires any machining or smaller diameter cylinder head bolts? Also, what size cam does it need?
Bit confused by this. Could be me that doesn't know enough but thr 1679 afaik is an 88mm barrel. Its slip in to stock case and heads but you end up with a thin barrel wall. Here in the UK they are pretty much avoided as the thin wall can warp especially in high compression ratio setups or when fitted in a heavy vehicle like a bus. It seems to be used more widely in the USA though with a few here saying work well. I know where I stand which is in the Wht Risk It camp when offers very little over a tried and tested 1641 setup, but something you may need to look into further yourself.
90.5 barrels will require machining of the case and heads to fit. If going for that compkication of build I personally would push the boat out and go 94mm for a 1915cc with stock crank/stroke. Small increase in cost for reliable capacity power. The cam you choose will depend on what you plan to do with the engine, what vehicle its going in, the components in the block which is directly linked to how high you can reliably rev it. If going in something heavy like a bus you want low down torque generally to make it nice and drivable and that would be a mild cam. Wanna put in a bug and rev a but harder I'd say no higher than a 110 but you slightly compromise bottom end pick up/Torque. If I was to built mine again I'd go low down drivability every day, but that's just the feel I like, low down grunt. Best of luck and thanks for watching 😊👍
@@PeoplesCarHe probably means the cylinders by AA, they make a slip in case and you have to machine the heads. Nice thick cylinder wall similar to the old 83mm SP ones.
@@johnknox6779 ah right not seen them before. Sound like a lot of expense with machine work (at least here in the uk) again for a small increase in capacity over 1641. As above given the choice again I'd have gone 1915/94mm but everyone to their own. Thanks for the info 😊👍
Wondering If you have any tips on keep Valve covers from leaking? I got valve cover that have the Clip that Holds the valve cover on. My first bug!
New cork seals should seal on their own . Always run a finger with oil on along the mating faces on the gasket, they shouldn't be fitted dry. Some people use sealant to help, if you need to I recommend Blue Hylomar as non silicone based but best without. You can re bend the clips to make tighter but it hard to get it right in my experience and i usually end up cocking them up! Lol.
Failing that you can buy bolt on rocker covers with and without vents and they are pretty cool proof. Hope that helps 👍😊
Use Scotchbrite or sandpaper to make the surface smoother.
Also use cork sealing.
Check if the metal valve cover clamp is still OK.
Many years ago I owned a Bradley GT kit car. I put on dual exhausts and it seemed to really help the engine. Why do these exhausts you show join back together? Is it a problem for the engine to run dual exhausts? I forget the brand it was so long ago, but they just came straight back and fit nicely for the Bradley GT kit car. What do you estimate these mods you speak of bring you for HP? Certainly would be more spritely on the road.
Ivr not seen a Bradley GT in the flesh ever that I remember! This vid I did last year might interest you though at Stoneleigh.. th-cam.com/video/qNuqb6rh6K8/w-d-xo.html I'm not sure which exhaust setup you speak of. The dual quiet pack I absolutely hated for ground clearance and looks but like the ones in the vid it did a good job on my 1776 with the merge before the split. Any twin exhaust that is working side to side like the dual cannons you see on buggies etc won't give you as good performance but how much difference in reality I couldn't say. Ultimately its all about the smiles so if it works well enough for you don't worry about it 😊
In terms of gains its hard to put a number on it because honestly it's not massive and varies between one engine and the next. However what it brings is drivability. The engine will feel more spritely as you suggest, and modern allowing you to drive it harder when needed. Hope that helps? Thanks for watching 😊👍
Just found your comment had been held for review not sure why. Hopefully you will see my reply now. Tx 😊👍
Great vid! I've got a 69 1500 single port. I upgraded to dual ICT 34s with 123 ignition a couple of years back, electric fuel pump etc, runs like a sewing machine now.
Still runing stock exhaust though, a stainless replacement is on the list. Any ideas? There's a SSP 4 into 1 header on Heritage Parts for the £185 mark (part AC251709).
Then I guess some sort of exhaust pipe on the end? Open to suggestions.
Happy to spend 300-350 on it. Worth the upgrade to make the most of the carbs?
Not planning on upgrading the heads or anything.
Hah, oh dear, I just checked out your links, and you've linked to it already 😂 making my question almost redundant. Having said that, it's not a 1600 so still interested in your opinion 😅
Thankyou 😊 I've always longed for SP 1500, but never quite happened, supposed to be the most bullet proof of them all. You might not get quite as many gains as a 1600 because of the more limited air flow but should still be a nice drive. That exhaust looks the same as mine but in stainless so inho perfect for the job. Just need to checknits not the bigger 1 5/8'' as it doesn't seem to state the bore size. Personally with a 15 I'd just go for a stainless single quiet pack style exhaust. I'll be honest I'm not a fan of the look or sound but they do the job so long as your bug isn't slammed at the back. Only way i know of to have it exit out the valance cut outs is to spend significantly more money. There are decent exhaust out there that do now but generally don't come in very cheap, I'm a little out of touch with more recent products/companies to be fair. I don't know how COOLAIR compared price wise but if register on the website and use the discount code PEOPLESCAR you should get an additional 5% discount. I don't get a cut of that lol. Best of luck 😊👍
@PeoplesCar Awesome, thank you for the info! I've had the car since 1988, practically built the whole thing myself 😀
@@camparikiller Nice one. Beating me then, had Beef since 94 and done the same, twice 😅
@PeoplesCar I just ordered the JK stainless quiet pack, will fit it next week. Was gonna get the SSP but the mufflers are out of stock for the next couple of months. I'll report back!
For cash value wouldn't a single 44dcnf etc and manifold give good bang for buck?
Also if the 36 isas much as valves can flow, high ratio rockers would work?
Also there must be a single 40/45 downdraft to have short intake.
Single intake using half a dcoe?
I actually have a single 36 DHLA and central manifold and was my plan to fit on my 58 as don't want to cut the inner wings for access panels. I didn't recommend as such because i have only ever known one guy to run one and really can't say how well it worked. I have heard that they can be very tricky to set up as tend to work well setup for low revs, or high revs, but hard to get a good balance. If wanting to go for a centre carb that should give a little more performance then the webber 32/36 would probably be a better option. I've known a few people run them that say they give better performance but again never personally run one on a bug so hard to say for sure. I know on a bug they fit the wrong way round so the adjustment screws are against the fan shroud but once setup I believe give good all round performance. I do have a 32/36 copy that came off my 2.0 CU van and its a total bag of sh**e! despite being stripped and cleaned out more than once, just won't run well, hence I ended up fitting a bug carb in its place! LOL. Also your still going to have a slightly laggy throttle and depending where you are carb icing issues unless use a IMDU or pre heated manifold which the 32/36 doesn't have afaik. Twin carbs although slightly trickier to get setup and balance, just work well. Good performance, decent economy and responsive feel. As for high ratio rockers, I THINK they would be a decent option with a stock cam but may have to look into this further, I bought some for my engine with an Engle 110 cam but never got round to fitting them b4 blowing the oil seal out the big end lol. You don't want to go any wilder than 1:1.25 on a stock bug tho, assuming they will work with a stock setup. 😊👍
@@PeoplesCar other options could be twin 32/34dmtl type of things but being progressive would have to be mounted sideways so both cylinder got small Venturi at low throttle.
Try them cheap kehin pwk copies!
They work well on bikes.....sidedraft or at 45 degrees with float bowl adapter.
Around £30-40/$40-55?
Brand new.
You can get the DCF in a 34 and 36 you know.
@@peterjohn3180 other than for forced induction applicstions ive never seen anyone run a side draft carb here in the UK.
unless you use a good preheated manifold with a header that makes it function that will suffer from icing/poor fuel atomization.
@@krusher74 yes I agree. I actually built a custom manifold in this video... th-cam.com/video/v62-hIhirK0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=BdhZMcV5cXGQQ3ke for use with a bug carb. In summer I got away with it but as the colder weather here in the UK kicked in it started to suffer icing. There is a 3rd and final video in this little experiment I'm currently re-editing that explains the pitfalls/my solution and will be launched in a month or 2. 😊👍
Any thoughts on a 6477 Deluxe Progressive Weber Carburetor Kit?
I had an non genuine empi one on my 2.0 CU but it ran like a sack of crap and could never work out what was wrong with it. I know people that have had them working well however so sure its not all of them. I think you will gain a little performance but won't have as quick throttle response as duals. I think the biggest down side on a bug engine is the adjustment screws are hard up against the fan Shroud so hard to adjust, but once it's setup shouldn't have to touch them much I guess. I personally wouldn't run one again unless dropped on a cheap genuine webber but I'm not saying you shouldn't. Good luck 😊👍
@@PeoplesCar thank you for that input. Very helpful
Excellent advice.
With the current price of twin carbs it makes more sense to look at FI systems.
Maybe it's time to sell the 48 drla Dellortos💸💸💸
Yeah absolutely. Im seriously considering a supercharger setup for the 1835 once the car is approaching roadworthy. Tbh I've always liked the idea of FI but never got round to learning much about it other than fitting the mexibug setup. Do you have any good resource links you could recommend. Tx bud 🙂👍
Mines totally stock with an unequal length header with j pipes and twin 34s thinking about a c20 or c25 cam upgrade,possible equal length header. Think the gains are worth it?
It came with the mods I mentioned, just looking for a little more pep
Hard to know really. If you have a stock exhaust box then you may see some improvements but if its an aftermarket thing like in the vid then the gains I imagine will be relatively small. I was shocked when creating the links in the description how much they have gone up in price since I last looked! So it's no small add on now.
Splitting the block I a pretty big learning curve if doing it DIY or at least putting it back together can be lol, and costly if paying for it to be done. So bang for buck...possibly not. I'm not sure what the c20/25 cams are comparable to and never used those profiles or know engine who has. I ran an Engle 110 and the power band certainly shifts up rev range a bit and you feel it come in, but as the stock motor doesn't rev that high I not sure worth that effort. The stock cam is nice and drivable so guess it depends on how you want the car to feel and how you drive it I guess. I'd avoid going to 120 however certainly with stock bottom end.
Thanks for watching 🙂👍
@@PeoplesCar it's got a header and j pipes, many I'll just put an equal length header on it and a small shot of nitrous,and an electronic timing retard box from msd for the mountains when it's running pig rich, BTW c20,c25 is a scat camshaft
@@campervanbug7658 I'll have to look at their comparible engle cam, just so I know in future. Tx 🙂👍
@@PeoplesCar scat is a really good company in the USA
I want an 1835 with EFI/ECU . It's going to be a daily driver with about 50% highway driving. Can you tell me what exhaust would best work for this setup? This is not for racing. It will be daily driven 65 miles with bimonthly hauls of 100 miles round trips.
I cant tell you specifically which exhaust to get however there are some rules I'd stick to. If you are using stock valves I'd keep it pretty basic pretty much as dedcribed in this video keeping a merged equal length header etc, however you may start to find the single quiet pack is a little restrictive and want to move up to something more free flowing. I used a number of exhaust on my 1776 with stock valves (tho i had diy ported and polished the heads) and I actually got the best performance on the strip from this exhaust... www.serial-kombi.com/en-GB/split-bus-exhaust-1500-1600cc-exhaust-csp-super-competition-38mm-stainless-steel-performance-exhaust-for-beetle-1500cc-1600cc-needs-modification-for-use-on-split-bus-with-abe-n326498 ... although when I did it this system was owned by BAS and wasn't stainless. It sounded great, not loud but a little rasp which I liked and seemed to suit that setup best. It's much more expensive now days tho so not advising it directly just telling you worked for me, and and makes working on the rockers etc bit of a fight as the exhaust hinders easy access.....or at least the one I had did. I have an 1835 with bigger valves etc ... the one I used in the background of this vid.... which plan to use the bigger 1 5/8 header and the phat boy exhaust you can see in the vid. I believe will be a decent flowing setup, offer enough restriction as not a straight through back box, but please note these things are loud and if your car is low will possibly be an issue with ground clearance. TBH since I went Subaru on my current car there has been a lot of companies that have brought out new exhausts and I'm sure if you ask online you will find recommendations for some of these new systems. I'm a little out of date with newer setups if that makes sense as been playing more with scooby setup than aircooled but the basic rules for Gas flow still apply. That's soon going to change think hope with my 2 aircooled projects. Best of luck 😊👍
How weird. This comment disappeared completely, and now its back 3 days later?? See other reply GL 👍
Looking to upgrade my stock L-Jetronic EFI. What EFI are you using?
I'd be interested to hear what efi setups people are using too. Tx 😊👍
I'm looking at a 1600 type 3 with a DD automatic gearbox.
My question is how good are the gearboxes and can I get parts and will they take some abuse?
I'll be honest I'm not totally sure as I've never owned or worked on an auto setup. A stock box if treat carefully on launches and not abused will handle upto about 130bhp reliably (this advice was given to me by one of the top engine guys/racers in the UK about 20 years ago). I don't think i would risk going anywhere near that with a stock auto box but can't say with any knowledge. If your just looking at the mods mentioned in this video however, im sure it would be absolutely fine. Good Luck 😊👍
@@PeoplesCar thanks for the reply and would a 100 cam be ok as it already has the twin fule injection carbs on it as standard.
@@user-gi2rx4pb9i is the type3 engine with auto boxes cammed the same as a manual? I would assume that with an auto you want low down torque but as not had one unsure if differs from stock sorry. 😊👍
@@PeoplesCar it's lsd diff factory so I'd have thought it would take some abuse tbh.
@@user-gi2rx4pb9i really? I never realised that auto came with LSD. I know they were on the 181s etc but the type3 autos I've been in were so smooth I would have never guessed.
You look like a hippie versio of mr bean. That was a compliment, don't worry. Very helpful tips, good video
I'm not a fan of Reliant Robins either! 😅 Thanks 😊👍
What would you do for a 1500 single port for a performance upgrade?
Pretty much the same thing. You Are more restricted in your ability to get air and fuel into the engine due to the single head port but if can maximise that I don't see why wouldn't see some gains although won't be as different as a 1600 TP, and I honestly can't tell you how it would compare. The 1500 is a fabulous engine as it is tho and in good running stock format are pretty bullet proof, part of that reason being restriction in the system stops it from being over revved etc. Given that, and the smaller increase in gains with mods, maybe just get it running well and be happy it will serve you well for many years as is? Tx for watching 😊👍
Hay, Could you do a video like this, but for increasing gas millage?
That's a great idea but I'll be honest it's not something I personally know enough about as has never been my goal, I just wanna pull wheelies! 😅 Although I can't give you accurate mpg the dual 34 ITC setup was decent and performed well too. I was supposed to be doing a video with a guy setting up a 1600 with E10 fuel to achieve best running so kind of what your looking for as isn't a performance video if that makes sense. I'll have to see if Chris is still up for this maybe over winter. For max mpg on a 1600 I already know he would recommend dual dellorto 36 setup which is what he run. I'm sure he said was getting high 40s mpg from his setup although I have to be honest that seems a little high to me. I'll look into it. Tx for watching 😊👍
I got a 1640 engine that i would like someone to give it a bit of a look over. New carb electronics just setup as it runs really bad. Is this something you can do. The engine is complete out of the car.
It's not something I do sorry, although I do know a guy who does and can ask him if your local to Sheffield? How do you mean runs bad? Usually with this kind of thing it's one bad part that's causing the trouble. It's a pita but sometimes worth reverting to what you had assuming it ran decent and then adding your new bits one at a time. If you have set your tappets correct, timed OK even just static, then it doesn't leave much else other than the electronic ignition or carb. You haven't swapped the svda for a 009 and timed at 7 degrees have you etc? 009 should be 28-32 at max advance. Caught me out many years ago that one. 😊👍
If have swapped the dizzy and it barely runs and it popping and farting badly it's a daft one but make sure your dizzy/wires aren't 180 degrees out. They will just run like that but it's not drivable. 👍
I am rebuilding my ‘72 dual port 1600. I have a new stock crank, rods, cam and lifters and using a pic 34 carb. I am thinking about installing thick walled 88’s, do you see any problems with my idea? Good video, thanks!
I've never personally used them so can't say for sure. I know there used to be people claiming the 1679 slip in cylinders were too thin and could warp or fail due to heat, especially on heavy vehicles like busses etc. I didn't think the thick wall cylinders are slip in? If not, and your having the case machined for them you might as well go the whole hog and 90.5 for 1776 or 94 for a 1915 imho. For slip in I personally would stick to a 1641 setup. They are tried and tested and again inho not worth the risk for an extra 38cc. Hope that helps and good luck 😊👍
If you’re going to use thick 88’s, add 94’s, don’t leave any money on the table. Or, stock 85.5 with a long stroke, that’s the way all the manufactures have gone. Factory exhaust, twin carbs
Hey Randy thanks for the suggestion! I’ve never heard about 85.5 with a longer stroke, I’d think you’d get more torque eh.
@@trevcessna1723 yeah strokers are better for Torque, how much it would add over stock, or how different it would feel to drive I'm not sure. Your still going to have to split the block to do that so I personally would go capacity...... or do both lol. GL 😄👍
Ya the case is apart cleaned and painted so it’s the whole you’re at it thing. I was just interested in adding some displacement but stay stock for everything else. Thanks for your help!
@1:00 it's funny you say it's only a 1600 engine, that's the same volume current F1 cars have, but I understand what you're saying. a hobby bobby is not going to get 800+hp out of an 1600 engine. 😉
Yeah I see your point. Maybe I shoukd have said old 1600 aircooled engine, kinda what I was aiming at. Tx for watching tho 😊👍
How about a multi-port fuel injection kit?
I'd love to recommend that but have no personal experience of fitting or using one. Something I'm considering for the future for sure though. Is there a setup you recommend other than the mexibug setup? Tx for watching 😊👍
@@PeoplesCar I later saw another post on this. The Mexicans incorporated fuel injectors on the late model Bugs they were producing. I haven't looked into it yet.
Oh OK. I thought you were suggesting a more modern FI. I believe the mexibug setup works well on a stock setup, although can be hard to find here in the UK at least. If looking for tuning options your going to need to go after market. This is the only way you will be able to effectively manage fuel delivery to suite a custom setup. It's something I may go into in future but atm the project that would be for is a long way from hitting the road. I need to pull my finger out and get on it! 😅👍
Excellent Vid, but one thing I notice is that every Vintage VW dude in the UK seems to have dreads? hahaha
I like to think it shouts non conformity like our dubs, but in reality it just shouts smelly and old........ like our Dubs 😁👍
You are hilarious. Great information. You seem very trustworthy. I like how you present your opinions. Not a know-it-all. Cool guy, for sure. Thanks!
@@secondlooksformen3836 Wow thanks! I just try and share the knowledge I've gained over nearly 3 decades.. eeek! 😳... of dubbing, but well aware there are lots of people out there with infinitely more knowledge than me, and many different opinions on the best things to do. Thanks for the kind words tho appreciated 😊👍
Hello does any one put a turbo charger on this engine ?
I haven't seen a bolt on kit for about 20 years. Im not sure why? Might be worth a search online I'm sure you might find something from the states, they have a bigger aircooled market over there. Best of luck 😊👍
No replacement for displacement
im always looking for more mpg,,not hp,, thats just me :)
I always got pretty decent MPG from the dual 34 webber ICT and better performance too. Taller final drive box should help that on a run. Tx for watching. 😊👍
stock to about 100 hp with mods
Unfortunately you wont get 100 bhp from the setup I describe in this vid. There should be a small increase in bhp over stock but most the difference will be in the ability to rev the engine harder when needed, and should feel more perky or 'alive'. Hope that helps. 😊👍
@@PeoplesCar how about slip in 88 mm p?L this will get you 1678cc at least 8.5-9.0 compression will need E85 max output of 91 Octane port police heads dual carbs at beast more stage camshaft valve lash cap at .050 added to lift of your cam W120 Vw Camshaft Small Street And Off-road Engines .496Lift/294D better burn hemi cut heads ...there is so much that can get you more BHP with out busting your pockets .VW 88MM Type 1 Cylinder Kit "Slip In"
$ 141.95 20w-50 we use in the desert heat on our off road rails
@@eyecam286 I personally would never use 88s as have a pretty bad rep here for warping and failures especially I heavier vehicles like Busses that generate more heat. Yeah I agree you could ring a 1600 for a fair bit more power but in this vid I was aiming for a cheap and cheerful upgrade, minimal skill, effort, expenditure and maximum improvement. Thanks for your feedback tho dude, maybe one for another vid 😊👍
@@PeoplesCar mu vw beetle had 88x76 crank no machining that is an 1850 cc max rev was 6.5 rpm had 105 bhp dual carbs then in 84 went to 2276cc or 2.3 ltr still running it with A/C 14 Gal petrol tank . then went to single carb DRLA40 with man choke went to mild ratio rockers had about .537 lift great on high end but petrol went up $$$ lower compression 7.1:1 better at 38 mpg highway
@@eyecam286 Interesting. My 1776 is 7.1 CR as planned to force induction it. How did you find the single DRLA? Have this 36 setup waiting for one of my motors as don't want to cut the Inner wings and assuming I don't AMR it, but told they are a SOB to get setup for both low and high end?
What did peasants look like in 1600? There ya go
Same as in 1300 and 1192 I suspect. 😅👍
make another video, but have an AMERICAN narrate so I can better understand
LOL sorry y'all 😅 Thanks for watching 😊👍
I’ve got totally stock AD 1600DP in my Bus, have just bought a set of NOS IDF36’s, Manifolds, linkage, air filters etc, and the CSP Single Quiet pack, which is on back order, so 2-3weeks delivery, not looking to being a boy racer, but just to perk it up 😀
Cool hope it all goes well. I assume your going to be setting up the 36s for your engine if not done already? I'll ask my mate Chris what size jets etc he is using on his 36 Dell setup. Might help you 😊👍
put 1,4 rockers on it too