@@powerhausvw I can't tell you how much I appreciated this video! I have watched countless videos and got more information from this than almost all the others combined, not to mention just seeing some of what you guys do is absolutely Awe Inspiring!! What I am wondering is, what would you guys think of putting together one or two "parts lists" and maybe even basic build specs for some of the more common builds. For instance, I am getting ready to rebuild a 1600 Dual Port for a Sandrail and would like to get some performance specs out of it without getting "irresponsible" or "breaking the bank". I am "relatively" "poor" but still want to take my time and do it right. As a VW newb, I don't have the slightest clue where to even start! Where to get parts, which are worth a darn, and what to stay away from. Is rebuilding worth it, or for the money am I better off saving up and getting a brand new case and building up from there? I can only imagine how insanely busy you guys are, and can't adequately express how grateful I am for what you guys are doing here. Just thinking that a "parts list" and basic "spec sheets" might answer a lot of questions and save you some of your valuable time. Not sure if what i'm saying makes sense, or if I am to new and dumb to know what I'm even suggesting. Thanks again, mad respect!
John is a great guy and very helpful, built a amazing engine for me and sent it all the way to New Zealand. I had many questions around my engine spec and also set up, so respect his insight and help. Totally recommend Powerhaus and the work they do.
In 74, I built Engines for a Robert Bosch Gold cup SuperVee, it was based off a type 4 Porsche 914, 4cyl, and was a 1600cc VW Type 127 V industrial engine, dual port heads, used webers and made 155 hp with 10.5 compression
every Bug iv owned i shortened 3rd and 4th, but i didn't drive my Bugs long distance. i love the pull of a Bugs take off, and the sound of Weber's singing. nothing like that throaty sound of a build engine.
I was thinking about getting a Porsche style fan shroud and after this video I’m sold. I will take the word of a shop that’s puts out that many motors that they work over a few non believers. The proof is in the numbers.
Wow. Great video. That motor is like a work of art. My Dad was an old school VW mechanic in a private shop back in the early 80's always loved the simplicity of them. Dead nuts reliable. Back then It was the only damn car that would start during our cold -20 below zero winters. You have taken these motors a long long ways. Cool shit.
Thanks for visiting our channel Chris, I've been working on VW's for about 35 years now and yes things have changes a lot, not many of the young generation are getting into VW's like back in the day and good mechanics are almost impossible to find
Thanks John. I love the motor you built for me about six years ago. It is perfect for my 1960 camper. If you are looking for ideas for content, I would really love to see how to get mileage. When I first started checking the mileage of my 2165 I’m getting about 8 miles per gallon.With your help I’m up to about 12/18 mpg. A lot of people think I can get way better than that. I don’t have mine set up for a bunch of horsepower
Hi Tim, That's one of those subjects I'm not a big fan of, too many variables and just about impossible to really compare notes especially over the internet. A modern vehicle that has cruise control, perfect alignment, better arrow dynamics, computer controlled efi, trans, shifting, etc. will still see a huge variance in mpg from one person to the next based on driving conditions, highway, flat land, hills, driver, etc. and VW's have a whole list of additional factors going against them that will contribute to inaccurate figures. Just some quick suggestions would be tire pressure, front & "rear" alignment, suspension stance, minimum of 91 octane fuel, keep the engine around 3000rpm or lower while on the free-way without lugging, downshifting when needed, be easy on the throttle when taking off and make sure your calculating and comparing mpg in as close to the same exact conditions as you can.
Really appreciate this video and the information. I had a couple of bugs back in the mid and late 70's. I had one with a mild built 1600 and ran twin webers I think they were the 40's but don't quote me on that. lol been a long time ago. always had to work to keep them in sync but I know a lot has changed since then and there is a lot better stuff out now days. Always enjoy your videos.
Goodness Gracious!!! Your work looks so clean, I've been watching your videos and that sound is just like music. I own a 1964 bug, I bought it a couple if years ago, runs and drives fine but I've been thinking on upgrading the engine to a performance one. Maybe, maybe one of these days. Cheers from Colorado. ds
That is really pretty sweet. I’d be interested in a propane fuel engine. Love to see that video. I’d also love to be able to afford one of your motors. That would certainly be a blessing
Awesome video John, I love this new format. Very informative, educational and fun to watch and learn. One day man am telling you, you gonna get a call from me haha. I just hope that by that time we both are not in a wheelchair LOL. Keep up the great work.
I was not gettin good carb sync. I have twin carb with stock Solex 32. The left side was getting hotter and idle would lower once warming, very strange. There was a bit sputtering on that carb throat also. The idle mix screw would not make much difference, as you mention here. It could be lean, which is bad. So I opened um carb top, bent the float a tad downside (richer) and voilla, synced gracefully and idled beautifully. One trick I have is hand touch the manifold to check if they are cool as they should. A lean running side could get noticeably hotter, as compared to the other side. Great content here.
I'm running dual 44 Webers and Porsche shroud/fan on my 1300cc bug here in the UK and it runs great, 126hp@7700 and 97lbft. It's built for historic road racing not for the drags, but still runs high 14's in the quarter mile
@@powerhausvw I've just had a 60mm crank made for the next motor which'll have aluminum 83mm Porsche 356 barrels to get 1299cc (1300cc class limit) so I can run much larger valves...I've been told to expect around 135-140hp@8500-9000rpm (The Hillman Imps in the class below are 1151cc and are shifting at 9500rpm!) Here's me with a leaking right rear damper hence why the handling very quickly went to sh*t th-cam.com/video/loDjQb3DYV8/w-d-xo.html
we used 4340 moly cranks 69-86 about $300.00 from Taiwan , like ford Chevy, Chrysler has in the past ...better than welded up more machining at that point
Great info on your motors dual carbs set-ups including rockers, valves and updated electronics. Beautiful motor that I’m sure your customer really digs! I couldn’t see it, but wondered if you drill and tap the block to get a full flow oil system. Doesn’t look like it. Watching your video makes me want to build another Baja bug. Just subscribed and going to check your videos to see if you did one on your shop. Looks great.
Sorry the slow reply, we're just a family type small business, thank you for watching and following. Our 2 liter engines and up are all tapped for full flow running an external oil filter and cooler/fan combo
i’m kind of laughing about the Horsepower ratings on the Dino’s even at the floor Dino giving out 170 to 185 Horsepower is still very respectfull it’s referring to a car that was designed to har 36 Horsepower engines IMO that’s the beauty of the VW Aircooled motors their origami Engineering was good enou to handle that type of Horsepower without auxiliary Cooling ,BTW i agree with what and how Youall do it and the theories
I like beetles and like them even better with a hot air cooled. There’s a trend on putting in Subaru engines but for me that would take the fun out of it.
@powerhausvw Great video, beautiful engine! You seem to use Chevy journals for stroker engines. Would that work in a heavy bus in your opinion? Over here in Europe builders tend to go for VW journals swearing by their strength in the bus application. Keep up the great work!
thank you for the kind words, as far as chevy journals go, that's all we use in every stroker engine we've built over the last 27 years of course we're using brand new forged crankshafts with the exception of a few billet cranks but never anything rebuilt or welded up, I think that is the bigger issue as far as the weak link.
I has my built in California in 90s Type 4 82mm Scat crank 103mm Wiesco Pistons Scat cam and Pauter heads and roller rockers with the famous Porsche shroud I got delivery of it and I had no car atm so I sold back to builder now I seen your channel and spark curiosity again im planning getting a Beetle have you build me Type 4 2.8 ltr for me.
Definitely something we are working, feel free to share these videos, subscribe & turn on the notifications button to receive updates, this will help us continue with more videos.
John, how much overall weight is added by using the aluminum case VS the magnesium case? Also this was a great informative video so far. Thanks for taking your time to make these.
I noticed u stopped short on saying what u were running for jets on those 44,s...lol damn!...But great videos!!..I can't get enough..like u said guys don't like to share the info. I just built my 1st 2387 with super pro heads. break in is soon . I need all the info I can get thanx!!...
I meant to say that the 44idf's would be the smallest carburetors we would run, the 2387 engines we build like Jeff's will come with 48idf's and have a 48ida option for more HP. Jetting really depends on what we are setting the engine up for and pretty much all of our builds are set up for drive-ability, kind of a lot to explain, many different things will factor in, maybe something we can do a video on down the road, but right now we're just slammed trying to keep up with builds.
On the hex bar linkage , i've noticed that the linkage going out of balance usually happens as the motor warms up and the distance increases between the crossbar pivot balls on the carb tops allowing side to side play in the cross bar . Then you notice that the side play in the cross bar affects the synchronised opening of the carbs . I have used Berg linkages on T1 tinware as although the engine width increases with heat , the linkage being fastened to the fan housing means that the linkage arms move in an equal arc and it doesn't affect the carb opening sync . Also , i have used a few sets of the AA Barrel & Piston kits as the Mahle got quite expensive. They seem to work ok but the grey coating on the piston skirts seems to come off pretty easily. I've stripped motors with lots of miles on Mahle pistons and the coating stays pretty intact. But i've stripped motors with very few miles with AA's and the coating is mostly gone . Also with the Wisco pistons , are they making their pistons oval like factory pistons now ? They used to be round and you had to run more skirt to cylinder wall clearance to allow for the position expanding and going oval . Whereas stock designed pistons warm up and are round . I stripped a couple of motors with Wiseco pistons and there was significant skirt and piston wall scuffing . I had a set of Wiseco's in a 2443cc blow through side draught 48 Dellorto race car ( tube frame ) . It ran low 10's in a mild tune . When started from cold , you could feel the piston slap through the tube frame , and it would go away as it warmed up . When the motot was stripped and inspected, , it had the piston skirt and cylinder wall scuffing problem . The piston to cylinder clearance ( Jaycee longer barrels) was set up per Wiseco specifications . With the gearing and cooling issue , beforr you could get serpentine belt systems with a smaller alternator pulley to speed up the fan , i used to use a 356 top pulley , which was 18 % smaller and sped the fan up enough to compensate for taller gearing .
I could chat with you for days on these subjects lol, but I really need to get back to work, I do plan on doing some videos on some of these topics but right now, we’re just slammed trying to keep up with these builds, plus I haven’t figure out how to get the shorter explanation from my head to video. We really appreciate our following and will try and pick up on the social media side as we can. John
Great video with a ton of good information! I've been running the Porsche fan kit for a while now and didn't think one of the larger distributors would work with it. Do you all modify anything to make that possible?
Thank you Robert, the Magna Spark distributor fits, you'll need to rotate the distributor or index the distributor drive so that TDC lines up in a position that gives enough room for timing adjustments, if you go to our Facebook or Instagram page, you can check out some of the pictures to get an idea of the distributor position that will be needed.
Jetting is very specific to the type of fuel being used. Fuels containing ethanol are in almost all cases, bad news for any modified motor. For this reason, unless you have a local source of ethanol free fuel, its probably a good idea to avoid any significant alterations on motors which are fitted to road going cars.
What is one giving up by going with one of these beauties? Like does the heaters still work, ride height, alternator, suspension (air), etc? Just like to know the things that need to be considered when going with one of these engines
If comparing to the original VW, I would think price would be the only negative and over the last couple of years, prices have gone up even more and parts have become harder to get. Now as far as giving up any reliability, performance, suspension, etc. by going with a new after market larger cc engine, I don't see anything negative as the original VW depending on the year only made about 25hp-60hp max and with original transmission would only do about 55mph @ 3200rpm on the highway so if wanting to drive with current free-way conditions, an upgraded transmission and engine is needed. I've never been a fan of the factory heater boxes, this is a very old designed system that basically blows air through non sealed boxes surrounding the exhaust pipes directly into the cab picking up any surrounding exhaust from the tail pipe that resonates underneath the engine along with the engines heat and fumes so not very safe in my opinion and over the last several years, we've had too many complaints so we just stopped offering them all together. On the Charging system, we run new 12volt alternators on all of our engines so definitely a plus over the factory generator and or 6volt system. Suspension and Brakes can be left stock if desired, depending on an individuals driving habits, maybe a set of gas shocks in the rear but would definitely benefit more by lowering the VW with proper suspension, sway bars and alignment, the car would handle much better and if brake work is needed, there are many options for doing the disc brake conversion which now days is probably the same price if not cheaper than replacing the stock system. Bottom line these cars are very old, I started working on them in the 90's and we did repairs for many years but something I started to realize about 10-15 years ago when the same car would come back 3 or 4 times the same year with additional problems was that they really needed to be completely restored not repaired.
Awesome video man , where are you located , and do you do work for folks or are you dedicated to a certain group in your area ? The reason I ask is I have a really nice short block that hasn’t been finished , unfortunately my late friend ( Vw guy ) has passed away a few years back and no one in my area that I know of works on these 2387s , thanks for sharing video
Thank you Warren and sorry to hear about your friend. That's one of the problems finding good VW builders/mechanics, they are either retiring, trying to slow the pace or unfortunately have passed. This business has always required a fast pace to succeed and most of the younger generation doesn't want to put that type of effort into learning, understandably they didn't grow up driving them so they wouldn't have the same passion as us. It's a bit tough on us right now, I only have one guy helping us build the engines and we are completely slammed with new engine orders taking us through January 2023 as well as several custom efi, turbo, procharged builds & installs so not something we can do at the moment but if you haven't found anyone to help by then, give us a call to see where we are at.
Really like the porsche shroud, dual carbs and all, but, but, not a fan of that spaghetti exhaust. Is there an exhaust that you can recommend for the little dual tail pipes that my 1600 uses?
This is a tuned 4 into 1 header, the pipes are bent like that so they will tuck up nicely under the apron while trying to keep each pipe equal length from exhaust port to the collector, the stock style muffler is not a header and will not flow on these larger performance engines. The Empi GT-2 tip is a little bit better than the stock exhaust and has worked great for us when running the single carburetor on 1600cc & 1776cc stock style engines, it tucks up nice as well, exits through the factory holes in apron and sounds better than the stock pee shooters. fb.watch/d5mjMKNvmG/
Do you guys do any Type 4 performance engines? Just curious for a street application if you can get good gains while still being drivable and reliable on a daily basis.
Right now we are just doing type 1 engines as we are a bit backed up with orders and only 2 of us here building, feel free to give us a call next week and maybe we can do something for you with a type 1 or refer you to another shop we know that does type 4 engines. 310-328-2746
Equal Power /HP To Torque is what i have always said, Stupid twin Turbos which are un-driveable where if you get the torque RIGHT it;s much more STABLE [In My Ex Classic Mini Tuning day;s] Opinion. Frank Kelly MK2 Escort always says TORQUE WINS RALLIES. Love the build Quality Bud [From UK].
I hav a 69 baywindow, stock engine 1500 dual kadrons. Added a roof rack with oak wood slats,..super heavy, thus sluggish. Need more power to keep up. Any recomendation? Need more power, yet, easy to maintain with my basic skills and tools. Thanks
That's gonna be more of a conversation, we'd need to talk about driving conditions, free-way speed, octane, rpm, gear ratio, maintenance, etc. if you have a chance, give us a call during the day and ask for Jerry or John and one of us can go into more details. 310-328-2746 powerhausvwparts.com/
The 76 VW should of come with a 3.88 R&P, I believe that was the biggest VW made but check with Rancho Performance, I think you can get a 3.44 R&P ranchotransaxles.com/
Not at the moment, there is only a couple of us here building these engines so we're a bit slammed and not doing much with individual parts sales, maybe down the road we'll expand on our parts sales again but not many experienced VW guys available to hire in now days and can't find the time to teach someone new.
Good morning from Athens-Greece.I would like to buy this engine for my VW 1303.How much cost including also to send the engine in Athens?Have you a gear box new suitable for this engine?Thank you very much!
Hello and sorry for the delay in reply, we are short handed and super busy in the shop. Currently we are quoting about 8 months lead time for a new engine build. We have pricing and options listed on our website, if you have a chance, take a look, then give us a call if you have any questions and would like to go into more details, we do not build transmissions in house but could refer you to a transmission shop. Shipping right now is very expensive, to have an engine shipped out of the country, customer will need to supply their own shipping agency, we could box the engine and strap to a internationally approved pallet but you would need to source your own shipping company. powerhausvwparts.com/
Hi Noel, we do appreciate your inquiry, unfortunately right now we are only taking in orders for our new Type 1 naturally aspirated engines we list on our website, we are completely booked up, we have engine orders taking us into January 2023 on top of several full custom efi, turbo & procharge builds as well as a few custom engine/drive-train restorations so for now, just the new Type 1 engine builds.
@@powerhausvw thanks for your response. You and your team clearly build amazing engines. Nicely done. I gotta make my way out there and check you guys out.
Hello and thank you for your inquiry, currently we are only offering brand new engines that we list on our website in the link below, if you would like additional information, please give the shop a call during the week day and ask for Jerry or John. 310-328-2746 powerhausvwparts.com/
It’s a bit tight but VW’s don’t really have good freeway gears so they don’t stay on boost very long anyway so we just spray a water/methanol mix while the engine is under boost, your gonna pull through all 4 gears in about 10-14seconds then you’ll be coasting for a while with the clutch in
Unfortunately we do not have a good international shipping source at the moment, out of country customers would need to source their own shipping agency and or broker, we can box one of our engines up for $250 with the correct heat treated internationally approved pallet/container but customer will need to provide their own shipping.
We did a complete custom 2387cc Turbo EFI a few years ago for my brother-n-law scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.18172-8/14525068_958010634326646_8194298493478401579_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&ccb=1-6&_nc_sid=cdbe9c&_nc_ohc=vr0lhODnUokAX90OjE1&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&oh=00_AT9Ypfg23QzVPo95QPK8bSwDc7LRp-RniJpiDMVDRFkGww&oe=62A8E16F
We use an inline thermostat on the oil cooler from Empi that turns the oil cooler fan on automatically at about 180F, never really liked the factory thermostat that blocked off the air to the cylinders, cutting off all the air completely then trying to cool the cylinders back down and maintain is bad idea in my opinion, kind of like holding your breath until the last minute, plus the factory thermostat was known to fail leading to more over-heating.
Take a look at our website if you have a chance, let us know what engine you are interested in, a phone call would be best, we are currently quoting 6 months lead time for one of our new engines and for international customers, we can box/crate an engine up but the customer would need to supply their own shipping company.
take a look at our website if you have a chance, we have pricing and options listed or feel free to call us during the week and ask for Jerry or John. (310)328-2746 powerhausvw.com
What is your best advise to stop valve covers from leaking! I am running a 1600 with Empi bolt on. And they leak on my exhaust. Any help would be great!
There's really several things that will contribute to valve cover leaks, we'll try and touch on this subject in one of our upcoming videos, feel free to share, subscribe & turn on the notification buttons to receive updates, this will help us continue with these type of videos.
Try a product called blue hylomar. It’s a non drying sealant developed by rolls Royce for use with their water pumps. Found in most auto parts stores or eBay. I’ve used it for years on all engines with zero leaks. The trouble with usual sealants is they harden and crack with heat and then become useless.
This is a free education right here folks😊 thank you for doing this video🙏🤘 you cannot put a price on experience 😊
Thank you, much appreciated
@@powerhausvw I can't tell you how much I appreciated this video! I have watched countless videos and got more information from this than almost all the others combined, not to mention just seeing some of what you guys do is absolutely Awe Inspiring!!
What I am wondering is, what would you guys think of putting together one or two "parts lists" and maybe even basic build specs for some of the more common builds. For instance, I am getting ready to rebuild a 1600 Dual Port for a Sandrail and would like to get some performance specs out of it without getting "irresponsible" or "breaking the bank". I am "relatively" "poor" but still want to take my time and do it right. As a VW newb, I don't have the slightest clue where to even start! Where to get parts, which are worth a darn, and what to stay away from. Is rebuilding worth it, or for the money am I better off saving up and getting a brand new case and building up from there?
I can only imagine how insanely busy you guys are, and can't adequately express how grateful I am for what you guys are doing here. Just thinking that a "parts list" and basic "spec sheets" might answer a lot of questions and save you some of your valuable time. Not sure if what i'm saying makes sense, or if I am to new and dumb to know what I'm even suggesting. Thanks again, mad respect!
He's the right man to build the VW motor... 👍
Your HONESTY and "straight talk" is much appreciated. Have a Family member that's building his motor and shared this video. Good Luck
Thanks for the down-to-earth rundown of what parts you run in your engines. Love your honesty. Cheers
John is a great guy and very helpful, built a amazing engine for me and sent it all the way to New Zealand. I had many questions around my engine spec and also set up, so respect his insight and help. Totally recommend Powerhaus and the work they do.
his engines are a work of art
Great - wish I had money to restore my '73 Beetle. But here in Africa one does not earn much even in IT.
You make some of us seriously consider these motors, good honest work and product
Thank you! Thanks for watching our videos.
You guys are awesome. Been around VW’s a long time, it sounds like you got it figured out.
Thank you
In 74, I built Engines for a Robert Bosch Gold cup SuperVee, it was based off a type 4 Porsche 914, 4cyl, and was a 1600cc VW Type 127 V industrial engine, dual port heads, used webers and made 155 hp with 10.5 compression
every Bug iv owned i shortened 3rd and 4th, but i didn't drive my Bugs long distance. i love the pull of a Bugs take off, and the sound of Weber's singing. nothing like that throaty sound of a build engine.
I’ll go with the shorter gears too for a personal aspirated Bug that I’ll drive around locally
Awesome info and lots of truth. Glad to see the willingness to share and spread performance tips for the hobby!
Yes,... a dual carb setup, typical jetting, installation, and sync/tune video. Nice video. thanks
I was thinking about getting a Porsche style fan shroud and after this video I’m sold. I will take the word of a shop that’s puts out that many motors that they work over a few non believers. The proof is in the numbers.
I've always hatted VW Beatles.....now I got alot of respect because of the motor.....dam u guys build such beautiful engines
Wow. Great video. That motor is like a work of art. My Dad was an old school VW mechanic in a private shop back in the early 80's always loved the simplicity of them. Dead nuts reliable. Back then It was the only damn car that would start during our cold -20 below zero winters. You have taken these motors a long long ways. Cool shit.
Thanks for visiting our channel Chris, I've been working on VW's for about 35 years now and yes things have changes a lot, not many of the young generation are getting into VW's like back in the day and good mechanics are almost impossible to find
I grew up behind Harbor General, happy to come across your channel. I had a 68 and a 74 1/2. Still miss them lol
I have the single carb and fight it. I've owned motorcycles my entire life. Carb per cylinder. Absolutely the best setup. Duel , double carbs.
What a dream build!! I'm from Brasil and proud owner of an 84 bug... keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing!!
This motor looks absolutely perfect 👍
Thank you 🙏
Appreciate all the details - really helps forecast engine replacement plans for us workaholics 👏👏
Thanks John. I love the motor you built for me about six years ago. It is perfect for my 1960 camper. If you are looking for ideas for content, I would really love to see how to get mileage. When I first started checking the mileage of my 2165 I’m getting about 8 miles per gallon.With your help I’m up to about 12/18 mpg. A lot of people think I can get way better than that. I don’t have mine set up for a bunch of horsepower
Hi Tim,
That's one of those subjects I'm not a big fan of, too many variables and just about impossible to really compare notes especially over the internet. A modern vehicle that has cruise control, perfect alignment, better arrow dynamics, computer controlled efi, trans, shifting, etc. will still see a huge variance in mpg from one person to the next based on driving conditions, highway, flat land, hills, driver, etc. and VW's have a whole list of additional factors going against them that will contribute to inaccurate figures. Just some quick suggestions would be tire pressure, front & "rear" alignment, suspension stance, minimum of 91 octane fuel, keep the engine around 3000rpm or lower while on the free-way without lugging, downshifting when needed, be easy on the throttle when taking off and make sure your calculating and comparing mpg in as close to the same exact conditions as you can.
So glad I found your channel, and that you're sharing so much info.
VW is my dream car…Researching to buy me one soon…This is a Super seminary.
Really appreciate this video and the information. I had a couple of bugs back in the mid and late 70's. I had one with a mild built 1600 and ran twin webers I think they were the 40's but don't quote me on that. lol been a long time ago. always had to work to keep them in sync but I know a lot has changed since then and there is a lot better stuff out now days. Always enjoy your videos.
Great content thanks much love from England 🏴 i got a 68 bug good to hear it from a pro
Thank you, appreciate the support and sorry for the slow reply
That is absolutely beautiful my man. Jeez that fan shroud is dope as heck
What a legend! Great work and great character! Thanks for the video and looking forward on the next content!
Greetings from Brazil
Goodness Gracious!!! Your work looks so clean, I've been watching your videos and that sound is just like music. I own a 1964 bug, I bought it a couple if years ago, runs and drives fine but I've been thinking on upgrading the engine to a performance one. Maybe, maybe one of these days. Cheers from Colorado. ds
Thank you and appreciate the follow, feel free to call us if you have any questions, we’d be happy to go over ideas and or options with you
That is the most beautiful engine ive ever seen. amazing work!
Thank you very much!
this dude knows what hes talking about if country depended on building VWs i would vote him
Thanks for watching!
if i ran a country aircooled vw & porsche building would be a state concern and branch of govt
If the power differs for the same engine between 2 cars it's most likely the gearbox ratio. But tyres (with, pressure) can also influence the values.
That is really pretty sweet. I’d be interested in a propane fuel engine. Love to see that video. I’d also love to be able to afford one of your motors. That would certainly be a blessing
Awesome video John, I love this new format. Very informative, educational and fun to watch and learn. One day man am telling you, you gonna get a call from me haha. I just hope that by that time we both are not in a wheelchair LOL. Keep up the great work.
I was not gettin good carb sync. I have twin carb with stock Solex 32. The left side was getting hotter and idle would lower once warming, very strange. There was a bit sputtering on that carb throat also. The idle mix screw would not make much difference, as you mention here. It could be lean, which is bad. So I opened um carb top, bent the float a tad downside (richer) and voilla, synced gracefully and idled beautifully. One trick I have is hand touch the manifold to check if they are cool as they should. A lean running side could get noticeably hotter, as compared to the other side. Great content here.
WOW You gave a lot of GREAT information about your engines ! Thanks !
Thanks for watching!
Dr Porsche would be proud,
I'm running dual 44 Webers and Porsche shroud/fan on my 1300cc bug here in the UK and it runs great, 126hp@7700 and 97lbft. It's built for historic road racing not for the drags, but still runs high 14's in the quarter mile
That's very cool, I like the sound of a high rpm vw engine but most of our engines are built for low rpm torque driving.
@@powerhausvw I've just had a 60mm crank made for the next motor which'll have aluminum 83mm Porsche 356 barrels to get 1299cc (1300cc class limit) so I can run much larger valves...I've been told to expect around 135-140hp@8500-9000rpm (The Hillman Imps in the class below are 1151cc and are shifting at 9500rpm!) Here's me with a leaking right rear damper hence why the handling very quickly went to sh*t th-cam.com/video/loDjQb3DYV8/w-d-xo.html
@@ianbrown9082 what an awesome video, love the sound of that engine working like that, congrats, looks like a lot of fun.
Great video ,even for an engine builder.lots of tips, product knowledge and best of all experience.thanks
Thanks 👍
Great video John thanks again for everything I couldn’t be happier with the way it turned out!!!
Thanks Jeff,
Keep us updated please and maybe when it's done if you would like to send us a small run video, we can use it in a follow up video
we used 4340 moly cranks 69-86 about $300.00 from Taiwan , like ford Chevy, Chrysler has in the past ...better than welded up more machining at that point
Very pretty design and application. Great work all.
Thank you, much appreciated
I certainly learned a lot. Beautiful work.
Great info on your motors dual carbs set-ups including rockers, valves and updated electronics. Beautiful motor that I’m sure your customer really digs! I couldn’t see it, but wondered if you drill and tap the block to get a full flow oil system. Doesn’t look like it. Watching your video makes me want to build another Baja bug. Just subscribed and going to check your videos to see if you did one on your shop. Looks great.
Sorry the slow reply, we're just a family type small business, thank you for watching and following.
Our 2 liter engines and up are all tapped for full flow running an external oil filter and cooler/fan combo
i’m kind of laughing about the Horsepower ratings on the Dino’s even at the floor Dino giving out 170 to 185 Horsepower is still very respectfull it’s referring to a car that was designed to har 36 Horsepower engines IMO that’s the beauty of the VW Aircooled motors their origami Engineering was good enou to handle that type of Horsepower without auxiliary Cooling ,BTW i agree with what and how Youall do it and the theories
Thanks Craig, It's tough giving out HP numbers, so many different factors to compare
I like beetles and like them even better with a hot air cooled. There’s a trend on putting in Subaru engines but for me that would take the fun out of it.
This video is gold thank You ! 🇲🇽
@powerhausvw Great video, beautiful engine! You seem to use Chevy journals for stroker engines. Would that work in a heavy bus in your opinion? Over here in Europe builders tend to go for VW journals swearing by their strength in the bus application. Keep up the great work!
thank you for the kind words, as far as chevy journals go, that's all we use in every stroker engine we've built over the last 27 years of course we're using brand new forged crankshafts with the exception of a few billet cranks but never anything rebuilt or welded up, I think that is the bigger issue as far as the weak link.
its a thing of beauty
3 thumbs up from Canada John .
That is the most beautiful and sexy VW motor I’ve ever seen
Thank you, much appreciated
Chulada,,,una jugueteria,para los amantes de los vochos,,ojalá un día pueda ver el mio,,,con algo así
Thank you
good'! info about what works good', thanks power haus', air' vw', peace
I has my built in California in 90s Type 4 82mm Scat crank 103mm Wiesco Pistons Scat cam and Pauter heads and roller rockers with the famous Porsche shroud I got delivery of it and I had no car atm so I sold back to builder now I seen your channel and spark curiosity again im planning getting a Beetle have you build me Type 4 2.8 ltr for me.
thanks for the insight of powerhaus
Thanks for watching!
Awesome !
Thanks!
I would love to see a video on carb tuning. Thanks
Definitely something we are working, feel free to share these videos, subscribe & turn on the notifications button to receive updates, this will help us continue with more videos.
John, how much overall weight is added by using the aluminum case VS the magnesium case?
Also this was a great informative video so far. Thanks for taking your time to make these.
Thanks Robert, the aluminum case is about 43lbs and the magnesium case is about 25lbs, so I like to say 18lbs stronger not heavier.
@@powerhausvw thanks for the response. Keep up the nice work.
I noticed u stopped short on saying what u were running for jets on those 44,s...lol damn!...But great videos!!..I can't get enough..like u said guys don't like to share the info. I just built my 1st 2387 with super pro heads. break in is soon . I need all the info I can get thanx!!...
I know he said 44’s in the video however it has 48IDF on it.
I meant to say that the 44idf's would be the smallest carburetors we would run, the 2387 engines we build like Jeff's will come with 48idf's and have a 48ida option for more HP. Jetting really depends on what we are setting the engine up for and pretty much all of our builds are set up for drive-ability, kind of a lot to explain, many different things will factor in, maybe something we can do a video on down the road, but right now we're just slammed trying to keep up with builds.
On the hex bar linkage , i've noticed that the linkage going out of balance usually happens as the motor warms up and the distance increases between the crossbar pivot balls on the carb tops allowing side to side play in the cross bar .
Then you notice that the side play in the cross bar affects the synchronised opening of the carbs .
I have used Berg linkages on T1 tinware as although the engine width increases with heat , the linkage being fastened to the fan housing means that the linkage arms move in an equal arc and it doesn't affect the carb opening sync .
Also , i have used a few sets of the AA Barrel & Piston kits as the Mahle got quite expensive. They seem to work ok but the grey coating on the piston skirts seems to come off pretty easily.
I've stripped motors with lots of miles on Mahle pistons and the coating stays pretty intact.
But i've stripped motors with very few miles with AA's and the coating is mostly gone .
Also with the Wisco pistons , are they making their pistons oval like factory pistons now ? They used to be round and you had to run more skirt to cylinder wall clearance to allow for the position expanding and going oval .
Whereas stock designed pistons warm up and are round .
I stripped a couple of motors with Wiseco pistons and there was significant skirt and piston wall scuffing .
I had a set of Wiseco's in a 2443cc blow through side draught 48 Dellorto race car ( tube frame ) . It ran low 10's in a mild tune .
When started from cold , you could feel the piston slap through the tube frame , and it would go away as it warmed up .
When the motot was stripped and inspected, , it had the piston skirt and cylinder wall scuffing problem . The piston to cylinder clearance ( Jaycee longer barrels) was set up per Wiseco specifications .
With the gearing and cooling issue , beforr you could get serpentine belt systems with a smaller alternator pulley to speed up the fan , i used to use a 356 top pulley , which was 18 % smaller and sped the fan up enough to compensate for taller gearing .
I could chat with you for days on these subjects lol, but I really need to get back to work, I do plan on doing some videos on some of these topics but right now, we’re just slammed trying to keep up with these builds, plus I haven’t figure out how to get the shorter explanation from my head to video. We really appreciate our following and will try and pick up on the social media side as we can.
John
@@powerhausvw
No worries , keep hard at it
I'm a little surprised it took this long to come up with a viable performance option for the VW.
Love these video chats!
Thanks Brian, feel free to share & subscribe so we can continue with more videos in the future
Great video with a ton of good information! I've been running the Porsche fan kit for a while now and didn't think one of the larger distributors would work with it. Do you all modify anything to make that possible?
Thank you Robert, the Magna Spark distributor fits, you'll need to rotate the distributor or index the distributor drive so that TDC lines up in a position that gives enough room for timing adjustments, if you go to our Facebook or Instagram page, you can check out some of the pictures to get an idea of the distributor position that will be needed.
@@powerhausvw Thank You very much for that information. Again great videos and information!
Need to get one of them for my 57 bug
Cool😮, Thanks for sharing. What engine oil would you recomend in engines im a warm/dry climate
We like using Valvoline Racing 20-50vr1, just have to warm it up a bit longer
Love this video! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I need money but,
I'm ready
Jetting is very specific to the type of fuel being used. Fuels containing ethanol are in almost all cases, bad news for any modified motor. For this reason, unless you have a local source of ethanol free fuel, its probably a good idea to avoid any significant alterations on motors which are fitted to road going cars.
What is one giving up by going with one of these beauties? Like does the heaters still work, ride height, alternator, suspension (air), etc? Just like to know the things that need to be considered when going with one of these engines
If comparing to the original VW, I would think price would be the only negative and over the last couple of years, prices have gone up even more and parts have become harder to get. Now as far as giving up any reliability, performance, suspension, etc. by going with a new after market larger cc engine, I don't see anything negative as the original VW depending on the year only made about 25hp-60hp max and with original transmission would only do about 55mph @ 3200rpm on the highway so if wanting to drive with current free-way conditions, an upgraded transmission and engine is needed. I've never been a fan of the factory heater boxes, this is a very old designed system that basically blows air through non sealed boxes surrounding the exhaust pipes directly into the cab picking up any surrounding exhaust from the tail pipe that resonates underneath the engine along with the engines heat and fumes so not very safe in my opinion and over the last several years, we've had too many complaints so we just stopped offering them all together.
On the Charging system, we run new 12volt alternators on all of our engines so definitely a plus over the factory generator and or 6volt system.
Suspension and Brakes can be left stock if desired, depending on an individuals driving habits, maybe a set of gas shocks in the rear but would definitely benefit more by lowering the VW with proper suspension, sway bars and alignment, the car would handle much better and if brake work is needed, there are many options for doing the disc brake conversion which now days is probably the same price if not cheaper than replacing the stock system.
Bottom line these cars are very old, I started working on them in the 90's and we did repairs for many years but something I started to realize about 10-15 years ago when the same car would come back 3 or 4 times the same year with additional problems was that they really needed to be completely restored not repaired.
Awesome video man , where are you located , and do you do work for folks or are you dedicated to a certain group in your area ? The reason I ask is I have a really nice short block that hasn’t been finished , unfortunately my late friend ( Vw guy ) has passed away a few years back and no one in my area that I know of works on these 2387s , thanks for sharing video
Thank you Warren and sorry to hear about your friend. That's one of the problems finding good VW builders/mechanics, they are either retiring, trying to slow the pace or unfortunately have passed. This business has always required a fast pace to succeed and most of the younger generation doesn't want to put that type of effort into learning, understandably they didn't grow up driving them so they wouldn't have the same passion as us. It's a bit tough on us right now, I only have one guy helping us build the engines and we are completely slammed with new engine orders taking us through January 2023 as well as several custom efi, turbo, procharged builds & installs so not something we can do at the moment but if you haven't found anyone to help by then, give us a call to see where we are at.
Good vídeo, and the man look a like Brock lesnar
Beautiful motor!
Really like the porsche shroud, dual carbs and all, but, but, not a fan of that spaghetti exhaust. Is there an exhaust that you can recommend for the little dual tail pipes that my 1600 uses?
This is a tuned 4 into 1 header, the pipes are bent like that so they will tuck up nicely under the apron while trying to keep each pipe equal length from exhaust port to the collector, the stock style muffler is not a header and will not flow on these larger performance engines.
The Empi GT-2 tip is a little bit better than the stock exhaust and has worked great for us when running the single carburetor on 1600cc & 1776cc stock style engines, it tucks up nice as well, exits through the factory holes in apron and sounds better than the stock pee shooters.
fb.watch/d5mjMKNvmG/
NICE!!!!
Can you tell us what brand of 2 piece push rod tubes used and if sealant is used on the seals? And what sealant has worked for you?
watch video about 7:40 in, it briefly goes over which tubes we use
Do you guys do any Type 4 performance engines? Just curious for a street application if you can get good gains while still being drivable and reliable on a daily basis.
Right now we are just doing type 1 engines as we are a bit backed up with orders and only 2 of us here building, feel free to give us a call next week and maybe we can do something for you with a type 1 or refer you to another shop we know that does type 4 engines.
310-328-2746
missed if you mentioned what oil cooler you use with that porsce style fan
empius.com/products/72-plate-competition-oil-cooler-fan-kit/
i wish i could work for you and learn how to build all these badboys.
Equal Power /HP To Torque is what i have always said, Stupid twin Turbos which are un-driveable where if you get the torque RIGHT it;s much more STABLE [In My Ex Classic Mini Tuning day;s] Opinion. Frank Kelly MK2 Escort always says TORQUE WINS RALLIES. Love the build Quality Bud [From UK].
I hav a 69 baywindow, stock engine 1500 dual kadrons. Added a roof rack with oak wood slats,..super heavy, thus sluggish. Need more power to keep up. Any recomendation? Need more power, yet, easy to maintain with my basic skills and tools.
Thanks
That's gonna be more of a conversation, we'd need to talk about driving conditions, free-way speed, octane, rpm, gear ratio, maintenance, etc. if you have a chance, give us a call during the day and ask for Jerry or John and one of us can go into more details.
310-328-2746
powerhausvwparts.com/
Great video!
Thanks!
Any videos on adjusting valves
th-cam.com/video/VvYdqLv5U0g/w-d-xo.html
I have a 76 bug and the book says I have the tallest diff ratio can taller be purchased
The 76 VW should of come with a 3.88 R&P, I believe that was the biggest VW made but check with Rancho Performance, I think you can get a 3.44 R&P
ranchotransaxles.com/
Do you also do motor kits for the customer to assemble
Not at the moment, there is only a couple of us here building these engines so we're a bit slammed and not doing much with individual parts sales, maybe down the road we'll expand on our parts sales again but not many experienced VW guys available to hire in now days and can't find the time to teach someone new.
Good morning from Athens-Greece.I would like to buy this engine for my VW 1303.How much cost including also to send the engine in Athens?Have you a gear box new suitable for this engine?Thank you very much!
Hello and sorry for the delay in reply, we are short handed and super busy in the shop. Currently we are quoting about 8 months lead time for a new engine build. We have pricing and options listed on our website, if you have a chance, take a look, then give us a call if you have any questions and would like to go into more details, we do not build transmissions in house but could refer you to a transmission shop. Shipping right now is very expensive, to have an engine shipped out of the country, customer will need to supply their own shipping agency, we could box the engine and strap to a internationally approved pallet but you would need to source your own shipping company.
powerhausvwparts.com/
I want to buy one for my car
What kind of case? I heard auto something but couldn’t make it out.
Autolinea Aluminum Case
This is great
John, I have acquired my Dad’s 1968 Porsche 912. Can you work with something like that?
Hi Noel, we do appreciate your inquiry, unfortunately right now we are only taking in orders for our new Type 1 naturally aspirated engines we list on our website, we are completely booked up, we have engine orders taking us into January 2023 on top of several full custom efi, turbo & procharge builds as well as a few custom engine/drive-train restorations so for now, just the new Type 1 engine builds.
@@powerhausvw thanks for your response. You and your team clearly build amazing engines. Nicely done. I gotta make my way out there and check you guys out.
Do you have 1.8l engine to my vw bug? I'm looking for that, in good condition engine
Hello and thank you for your inquiry, currently we are only offering brand new engines that we list on our website in the link below, if you would like additional information, please give the shop a call during the week day and ask for Jerry or John.
310-328-2746
powerhausvwparts.com/
Is there a way to get cooler intake air in bay , in a street driven beetle
It’s a bit tight but VW’s don’t really have good freeway gears so they don’t stay on boost very long anyway so we just spray a water/methanol mix while the engine is under boost, your gonna pull through all 4 gears in about 10-14seconds then you’ll be coasting for a while with the clutch in
Boa noite sou brasileiro moro em São Paulo, tem como enviar um desses motores aqui para São Paulo???? Obrigado
Unfortunately we do not have a good international shipping source at the moment, out of country customers would need to source their own shipping agency and or broker, we can box one of our engines up for $250 with the correct heat treated internationally approved pallet/container but customer will need to provide their own shipping.
Whats the biggest type3 squareback motor you build that does not need the
deck cut up...? Thanks
We did a complete custom 2387cc Turbo EFI a few years ago for my brother-n-law
scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.18172-8/14525068_958010634326646_8194298493478401579_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&ccb=1-6&_nc_sid=cdbe9c&_nc_ohc=vr0lhODnUokAX90OjE1&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&oh=00_AT9Ypfg23QzVPo95QPK8bSwDc7LRp-RniJpiDMVDRFkGww&oe=62A8E16F
@@powerhausvw Wow" Have a 1641 not impressed with it so far. Thanks brother"
I want one 😢
What do you do for thermostat sustem
We use an inline thermostat on the oil cooler from Empi that turns the oil cooler fan on automatically at about 180F, never really liked the factory thermostat that blocked off the air to the cylinders, cutting off all the air completely then trying to cool the cylinders back down and maintain is bad idea in my opinion, kind of like holding your breath until the last minute, plus the factory thermostat was known to fail leading to more over-heating.
How can I order to buy a engine and shipping it to Israel?
Take a look at our website if you have a chance, let us know what engine you are interested in, a phone call would be best, we are currently quoting 6 months lead time for one of our new engines and for international customers, we can box/crate an engine up but the customer would need to supply their own shipping company.
They look great ,do you export.
We can ship anywhere in the US but currently out of country shipments, customer would need to source their own shipping agency
What’s the cost on one of these motors?
take a look at our website if you have a chance, we have pricing and options listed or feel free to call us during the week and ask for Jerry or John.
(310)328-2746
powerhausvw.com
Do you use the no gap rings ?
Sometimes, really depends on the build, compression, application, etc.
I need a motor for my 86 cabby please help me
Hi Doug, unfortunately we do not build engines for the later model VW's
Where are you guys located out of?
Torrance, California
powerhausvwparts.com
What crank size do you use thanks
Depending on what we are building, typically we'll use 69mm up to 86mm, we've also run an 88mm in our Autocraft builds.
What is your best advise to stop valve covers from leaking! I am running a 1600 with Empi bolt on. And they leak on my exhaust. Any help would be great!
There's really several things that will contribute to valve cover leaks, we'll try and touch on this subject in one of our upcoming videos, feel free to share, subscribe & turn on the notification buttons to receive updates, this will help us continue with these type of videos.
Go back to stock. Mine never leak.
@@brianchisnell1548 done that! Same leak. Tried sealant all kinds. Same leak. Gonna try grease around seal next
Try a product called blue hylomar. It’s a non drying sealant developed by rolls Royce for use with their water pumps. Found in most auto parts stores or eBay. I’ve used it for years on all engines with zero leaks. The trouble with usual sealants is they harden and crack with heat and then become useless.