Hello folks! I'm from Brazil and own aircooled VWs for 20 years. I always used 20w50 regular (mineral) oils on my cars. Although I live in Southern Brazil, where in winters our temperatures come close to 0°C, and in summers raises to 35+°C, the 20w50 does a good job. One thing I learned through research and readings, is that the API SL grade is the limit in this kind of oil, concerning to the ideal balance of ZDDP additive in Ppm in a "newer" oil. So, even if there are mlmore modern options in SM/SN/SP grades, I stick with SL, cheap and widely available. Changes at every 6 months or 5,000 kilometers. The results: my older engine (20+ years of age) never opened so far, and perfect running. One more thing: upgrade to a 26mm gear oil pump in every new engine I build. Cheers!
Penrite 10W 50. Wouldn't use anything else. I'm in New Zealand. Hot summers, freezing winters. And this is VERY important: It has ZDDP (zinc) which most modern oils do not contain in significant amounts as it destroys catalytic converters. On the VW the ZDDP is essential to protect the valve train exactly as you describe above.
@@Maurice-c6z yes, all oils were high zinc 50 years ago. It was with the introduction of catalytic converters that zinc was removed as it destroys the cat. Conversely a lack of zinc in modern oils destroys 50 year old valvetrains.
Here is my recommendation. All model Beetles will be more than happy with conventional 10w40, 15w40, and if you live in a warmer climate with mild winters, and hot summers 20w50. Changed every 5000 miles. You will never have any problems. That's it. Nothing more needed be said.
@@johncollins5552 Hi guys, I saw a video that they test a start run with oil pressure gauge a compare two different oils 20/50 and 5/40 or 10/40 I not sure but they explained that the 40 one it is better because in the starting part is when the engine suffers the must and was true the oil pressure was faster in the safety zone with the lower starting grade. Best regards from Puerto Rico. I am working in my 1600 72’s Super Beetler right now!!! 😅
Im in Long Beach California , so it doesn't get that cold. I have always ran 20/50 valvoline R. It has a high zinc content for solid lift cams. Of, course the size of your oil pump and climate will dictate oil weight. Just remember modern oils are designed for modern cars with a very low if any amount of Zinc. What ever oil you use make sure it has a high zinc content designed for solid lifters/flat tappit cam.
I live north and San Francisco, and today I did my first oil change since buying my 69 Beetle 7 months ago and used 20w50 valvoline VR1.. so hopefully, this oil is fine in it... it normally, even in the winter, is around mid 40s at the coldest rarely dips down to 30s.
My Dad purchased a 1964 VW Beetle in 1964 from the dealership. We were not sure what type of oil was used when the engine was manufactured. On the first oil change, the engine had so much sludge in it. It was also getting harder to turn over the engine. My Dad cleaned out the sludge and replaced the oil with Havoline Motor Oil 30w. It was a High Detergent motor oil as recommended by the VW Shop Manual he also purchased from the dealership. Published by Delius, Klasing & Co. Bielefeld and Berlin. This manual states for the engine oil to be (HD oil for spark ignition engines). The lubrication points. Engine, oil bath air cleaner, carburetor controls, door hinges and felt ring in the distributor. Specifications were above 86 F SAE 30 W, and from 32 F and up to 86F SAE 20 W /20. Below 32 F SAE 10 W and finally anything below - 13 F SAE 5 W. Now days Havoline that we use has Anti Wear Additives, Zinc rating of 906 PPM (Parts Per Million). Yes, we still have the 64 Beetle.
California guy here! V-dubbin since 95.. in the 90's we ran 20w-50.. zero issues.. 30w - zero issues.. currently 15w-40 shell rottella (aka diesel oil) ..reason.. it will survive the harsher air cooled vw temperatures and it has zinc..
After watching this I have tried synthetic in my baja with a 1968cc. Im using 5/30 Kirkland brand. My head temperatures go from 280 to 310. It's 100 plus here in the high desert. The really trippy part. My oil temp is 90 to 110. Dog house with a remote filter and full flow so my capacity is 3.75 quarts. I do add some zinc additive. So far I'm a fan.
I use Driven motor oil. Either their HR1 or HR5. Driven Hot Rod Oil is designed to protect your camshaft. With high levels of ZDDP to protect your engine. Driven Hot Rod Oil also delivers storage protection additives to guard your engine from rust and corrosion. These additives also prevent dry starts. Developed specifically for older cars, no other oil provides this unique combination of lubricant chemistry.
The important thing is not "which oil ?" but "is there enough oil left ?" The viscosity depends on the outside temperature only if it is extreme on one side or the other, it depends on the hot engine oil pressure, and the compression ratio. this on an original T1 engine and in more or less good condition, with double oil regulation, original springs and pistons, and functional mobile air flaps.
Has for me. I have always used Castrol in everything I run. One example is a riding mower. I bough in 1993. I wanted to do a test. So I added Castrol 10W40 to it for the first run. Every time checked the oil before and after running it,the oil was so clean,I never changed it. It is still running to this day. And i have tried other oils in the past on cars and trucks,but always went back to it. Liked and shared.
The past few years I’ve been running Castrol GTX Classic 20w50 in the motorcycle and it has been excellent. It advertises as being high zinc which the bike needs for the flat tappet cam.
I went through the same search and destroy mission of the best engine oil for my buggy engine when I bought it 2 years ago. After some research I settled on the Mobil 1 15w50 and will continue to use it here on out. No issue with Temps she runs nice and cool
I'm in Pennsylvania. Summers can get hot but typical outside temps are 60-90 when I drive our bus (my bus is a 2L). Anything above that, I drive my RAV4 for the A/C. lol I've been using Valvoline VR1 10/30 in my bus with no issues. Other VW guys where I live use 20/50 & they don't have any issues either. I do have Castrol 20/50 at home too which I may try if we have a summer that is unbearable with heat. I've always been told though to make sure my vw HAS oil & to change it regularly and I shouldn't have any issues.
Today in Southern Idaho it's 105°. My wife's dune buggy with a stock 1600 running conventional oil. 70 miles on the freeway head temp 400°. Shoot the dip stick and get 350°. My baja has 1968cc 9:1 compression and I'm running synthetic. My head temp 325° and dip stick 180°. I'm going to add the synthetic to the wife's dune buggy. That's just crazy cool.
First of all great video, thank you!! Here in Las Vegas where it's a bit warm I do run the Valvoline VR1 20/50. Porsche 1.8l I chose the Valvoline VR because it claims to have two times zinc❤ 2 times what I don't know. Now I think I see Valvoline also produces VR1 in a synthetic and that interests me. Because, not to get into any kind of arguing or fighting but I think if the oil geek says it, it is so.
Thanks for the good info. I use Pennzoil SAE 30 in my new dune buggy 1600 CC engine for now used in state of Wiscinsin in summer time only if I ever switch would be 15W40 dino, I also add ZDDP Zinc to oil, Chris
I’ve just changed my mind with oil. I’ve always ran t4 15w40 diesel oil but on my new 2332 I changed to 20w50 valvoline vr1 racing oil and couldn’t be happier. My idle psi when hot went up to a very happy number instead of almost 0
The Valvoline VR1 Racing 20w50 has a zinc content up around 1700ppm IIRC. . .. Many Porsche 911 owners of years '89 911 to '94 (964) series model thru the '94- '98 911 (993) air cooled series cars came thorough with Mobil 1 oils with (then, in the '90 decade) high Zinc levels; 1700ppm. . Fast forward,,, to mid the 2000 decade is when Mobil 1 begun reducing the Zinc content in many of its oils. .. Zinc and the CAT's do not mix... Mobil 1 15w50 for my '98 Carrera 911 (993) since new, and also M1 15w50 in our '79 SB cabriolet during the hot, hot Denver summer..
This is a great video! Thank you very much for all of the information and the great reference you had here. Cheers from an owner of a VW Split screen in Brazil! :)
I’ve been using Shell Rotella conventional for many years. Living in hot climates straight 40W or 15W-40 as a second alternative. My understanding is that the zinc level was adequate; I always use the STP supplement with it as well.
In my ignorant youth, I always ran 20-50 in my built up 2ltr bug and R100RS, always in warmer (hot) ambient temps, and never had a problem. The Mexican beetle owners manual and the AC Porsche recommendations are telling. Thanks for your research.
meh.... My older brother owned a very successful German car shop for over 30 years. His slaves worked in the right side three bays on VW's, while he, worked in the two left side bays on vintage and rare Porsches and Mercedes Benz automobiles. His re-built engines were done via customers shipping them to him, and getting them back gold plated. His car collection included two Mercedes 300 something "gullwings" an Adenaur limo, and several choice examples of the 356 Porsche, including two with the early 12 volt electrial system. He was Austrian born and raised, worked to the blasting sounds of Wagner, and he knew his stuff. I drove aircooled Bugs. He built the engines and told me to use 30W Castrol GTX because the engines revved high for best efficiency and that oil was formulated for that type of use. He retained ownership of the engines and had a stake in their re-saleability. When I moved into a different Bug, he would remove the engine and sell it used to another client who was in need. He also used the same oil in his vintage 356 cars. That was in the late 1970's. My Bugs were all early 60's to 67. Same with my brother's Porsches. Your results may vary. All this was in the Pacific Northwest of Washington State, where yearly temps are mostly moderate. My takeaway - apart from what oil you use - is to change it like religion. That's more imortant than what weight is in the sump.
All good information, thanks for sharing. The only thing I'll comment on is the Castrol GTX formula has changed in recent times by them eliminating a lot of the zinc phosphorous in order to be compatible with new regulations and catalytic converters.
@@MaineMachinist Yes. Oil tech went through a lot of changes because of government fiddling. I was in Mexicao in the late 80's. The air pollution was pretty bad. I m sure it had something to do with air quality regs that lagged behind the US at the time. Bugs, Busses, and Things were literally everywhere. I would say the ratio of aircooled VW's was 1/10 on any given street. A lot of them were pretty new but smoking pretty bad. Heat and slow traffic kills those engines. I do miss my 67 Camper. My brother built a custom 2.2 liter for it. Better than his 356 engines, he said. It was quite the sleeper, no pun. Up the passes with me, my bud, and our two germans sheperds, and all the gear . No problem, as long as I didn't open it up. The original transaxle wasn't built for the potential of that motor. When I sold the body (mint condition) my brother sold the engine to a guy who built a street rod Ghia. T'was a thing of beauty. Those were fun days.
My 1835 has a big oil pump. I run the thinnest oil redeploy available here 5/20 with a few oz of the Lucas break in additive. Even here in metro Phoenix. Way to much oil pump. Hot idle is like 20. It’s in a Baja so I don’t run it super long at high rpm’s. In my beater 1649 with a regular size pump I run diesel type 15/40 with a pinch of the Lucas break in oil. I had oil pressure problems with hot idle before. I overheated it due to jetting once in 30 f weather. It was so hot the sleeve pulled out of the block when checking oil. Still runs ok. I only hit the freeway for like 5 miles max now.
Thanks for your tips about what oil to be used for aircooled VW beetle, I do have a beetle VW drive it in a tropical condition at Cairo, Egypt, so your comments would be very helpful to find the fine tuned suitable oil for my car. Best regards
I’ve just had a 1600 rebuilt and the builder recommends 20W60 with zinc. I have Penrite 20W60 and the container state it is a suitable replacement for SAE 30.
Everytime I use synthetic in my 2332 turbo air cooled vw, i get leaks at the valve cover gasket using the rubber gasket on the CB performance covers. But this doesn't happen with the Kendall 30sae straight weight. Since the kendall is a pain for me to locate at a reasonable price without a long drive, I'd love to use a 10w-30 synthetic if I could.
In 45 years of working on cars. I have never seen a car fail because of the wrong oil.. They fail because they have no oil or no coolant. Today's newer vehicles like thinner oils It is always advisable to use OEM recommendations.
I agree and think that most times people overthink it. Nothing wrong with getting the best we can, but ultimately there’s lots of cars on the road right now running junk oil or the wrong oil.
I agree, excpt with todays over engineered cars. Vintage Bugs are very forgiving, as long as there is enough oil and it is changed regularly. No matter what oil we ran in our old bugs, they still required at least a valve job at about 60,000. #3 was always the culprit., but oil was never the cause. They just get hot.
I run Mobil 1 15w-50 in a 65 Mustang with a 302 bored and stroked to a 331. I use the Mobil 1 because it as the appropriate amount of ZDDP in the oil for cars with flat tappet cams. I would assume the same oil would work well in our 74 Super Beetle with a pretty much stock 1600. I live in southern Arizona, and we don't get the crazy heat of Phoenix, but it's not unusual to get over 100* in the summer here and in the low 20's with the occasional dips down into the teens in the winters.
Well synthetic what is it ! It’s plastic and plastic makes a good insulator, it’s used in electrical components as a barrier, I believe in Gene burg as it helps stop the transfer of heat and also won’t pull the heat away so makes sense to me the heads would be hotter, you don’t want the oil to go much over 100degrees as that’s when it starts breaking down 😊
After I watched your video, I tried to find Mobil 15w- 50 but they don´t sell it in Mexico, so I´m trying Motul 15w-50 classic, any advise about that oil?
Unfortunately I have no first hand experience with that brand, but I’m sure it’s a good oil. All the modern brands are far superior to what we had 20 years ago or more
Liked the video as it has so far come closest to what I'm looking for to see if if synth is ok to use in an air cooled British motorcycle. Perhaps after 1,000 miles running in
Awesome video. I live in NJ and have a 71 Squareback w/ 1600cc, 73 Thing w/ 1600cc, 74 Super Beetle w/1776 cc and a 77 Baywindow w/2000cc. In all I run a 20W50. Temperatures in NJ falls within the high moderate range. Ive always wondered about the oil that I should use. I guess Im okay. Thoughts?
What about aircooled motorcycles oil? I use Motul 7100 20W50 on my hog, who also is an aircooled pushrod operated engine,like the VW and 2CV. The only diference i see is HD have hydraulics lifter. Would it be a valuable option?
The ratings on oil build on each other so the next rating up meets/exceeds requirements for the previous rating if I remember correctly. I own a Corvair so I needed to find the answer to the oil question and it seems there are a couple oils that can work well, heavy duty diesel oil like shell rotella t4, racing oils and air cooled motorcycle oil. Atleast the corvair engine can run quite hot so the oil needs to be made to handle the heat.
It is correct that generally the latest oil exceeds the performance of the older rating, but the only problem for older engines is the modern oils have eliminated most of the zinc phosphorus since modern engines don’t require it.
@@MaineMachinist which is kinda weird since the engines that require high performance oil require the additive package in said oil which does have zinc. I might see if rotella t6 has the zinc or something equivalent in function. I'm just amazed how something that relies on so much data and science has so many misconceptions and differing opinions.
I haven’t tried it on an aircooled VW although I had great success with it in an old Toyota Camry. It normally used a lot of oil but never used a drop as long as I had STP additive in it.
I have another thing to read regarding oil. This guy has his opinion and specifically has a section for air cooled engines. He seems like a blow hard but it's worth adding to all the other information you provided and take from it what you will. Do a search for Rat540. He also tests oil and has ratings of protection. He claims that zinc isn't the only factor and some of his tests showed that just because it had a bunch of zinc didn't mean it was better. He recommends 20-50 since air-cooled have a lower ability to control temperature. Cheers!
I stopped using Castrol 20-50 after I contacted them years ago and they said they have zero zinc. I switched to brad Penn 20-50. I have a turbo engine that seems to run okay on temps but I thought about lower the viscosity to help pull heat but I am not sure if that is a good idea.
Kendall 20w50 GT-1 Competition has additional zinc. I'm in So-Cal with a '62 1200 aircooled that has a bus trans. Running bigger valves, deep oil sump, and a Dansk aluminum oil cooler for a later model in the fan shroud. Smooth on the freeway, 65mph with ease and lots of pedal left, very dependable.
the gene berg/synthetic question is still rehashed to this day. it's not a conflicting opinion, it's inconclusive/incomplete research done decades ago (berg) vs actual science - synthetics remove more heat from engine parts, it's basic physics. so many people still glued to old, outdated information because they heard or read somthing once and haven't bothered to update themselves since. science doesn't stand still.
AH ENGINE CODE: 1600 DP 1971 VW TRANSPORTER Location: Homer, Alaska Winter oil: 5w - 20 Homer winter air temp is between 0 - 20 degrees. Note: Zinc is added for conventional oil. Spring-Summer oil: 15w - 40 Homer spring / summer air temp is between 40 -75 degrees. Note: 15W - 40 Rotella T with triple protection has approximately 1200 ppm of zinc and 1100 ppm phosphorus at the time of manufacture. ( No need to add zinc )
Awesome information, thanks for sharing. I exclusively use Rotella T oils in my old farm tractors. It makes a huge difference. My ‘49 Farmall used to smoke bad with regular 10w30 automotive oil. I switched to the Rotella T and it doesn’t smoke now.
Hogwash... Rotella 15W-40 Diesel oil for my deisel truck, lawn mowers, VWs and everything in between.......been using it for as long as you've been alive😂
I found this out the hard way. I thought I was doing something good for my engine. WRONG!!! SYNTHETIC OIL DOES NOT CARY HEAT AND MY ENGINE DIED VERY SOON AFTER CHANGEING TO SYNTHETIC!!! DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL REGRET IT!!!😢
Gene Berg has warned about this for years. I’m not sure yet how modern synthetic oil impacts things. In the video I consulted an oil specialist and he claims new synthetic oils actually carry away heat better than conventional oils. I’m not sure what to think about this as of yet.
But the Bentley ISN'T an official vw manual... it's a Bentley manual. You make it sound like it's an official VW publication and it isn't. I will stand by my own opinion that 20w50 is too thick for a newer, tight engine. It's been proven over and over that using too thick a viscosity for YOUR situation will cause the relief valves to bypass the cooler. But obviously do what you want. I know what works on my cars. My FI high compression 1776 runs almost too high pressure on 10w30 VR1
@MaineMachinist Authorized yes, but not a true factory manual. If you look at the Mexican beetles, they specifically say 15w40 for example. Problem with any of these recommendations is that oil is very different now, and so are the ways engines are built and what products are used. The only true way to know you've got it correct for your build is to test oil pressure with a proper gauge
Hello folks! I'm from Brazil and own aircooled VWs for 20 years. I always used 20w50 regular (mineral) oils on my cars. Although I live in Southern Brazil, where in winters our temperatures come close to 0°C, and in summers raises to 35+°C, the 20w50 does a good job. One thing I learned through research and readings, is that the API SL grade is the limit in this kind of oil, concerning to the ideal balance of ZDDP additive in Ppm in a "newer" oil. So, even if there are mlmore modern options in SM/SN/SP grades, I stick with SL, cheap and widely available. Changes at every 6 months or 5,000 kilometers. The results: my older engine (20+ years of age) never opened so far, and perfect running. One more thing: upgrade to a 26mm gear oil pump in every new engine I build. Cheers!
Thank you so much for sharing this important information!
Boa kkk
Penrite 10W 50. Wouldn't use anything else. I'm in New Zealand. Hot summers, freezing winters.
And this is VERY important: It has ZDDP (zinc) which most modern oils do not contain in significant amounts as it destroys catalytic converters. On the VW the ZDDP is essential to protect the valve train exactly as you describe above.
The zinc is absolutely critical for sure!
Did they have high zinc 50 yrs ago?
@@Maurice-c6z Yes.
@@Maurice-c6z yes, all oils were high zinc 50 years ago. It was with the introduction of catalytic converters that zinc was removed as it destroys the cat.
Conversely a lack of zinc in modern oils destroys 50 year old valvetrains.
Yes.
Here is my recommendation. All model Beetles will be more than happy with conventional 10w40, 15w40, and if you live in a warmer climate with mild winters, and hot summers 20w50. Changed every 5000 miles. You will never have any problems. That's it. Nothing more needed be said.
Sounds like solid advice
The 20/50 makes a bug hard to start in frosty weather so I avoid it in favor of 15/45 year round.
VWs don't come with an oil filter. I wouldn't go more than 1,000 miles between changes.
@@johncollins5552 Hi guys, I saw a video that they test a start run with oil pressure gauge a compare two different oils 20/50 and 5/40 or 10/40 I not sure but they explained that the 40 one it is better because in the starting part is when the engine suffers the must and was true the oil pressure was faster in the safety zone with the lower starting grade. Best regards from Puerto Rico. I am working in my 1600
72’s Super Beetler right now!!! 😅
@@jamesbosworth4191 3000 miles bro. 1k is insane
I use the tears of my haters as oil for my beetle... Works like a charm !
Haha this is the way
Im in Long Beach California , so it doesn't get that cold.
I have always ran 20/50 valvoline R.
It has a high zinc content for solid lift cams.
Of, course the size of your oil pump and climate will dictate oil weight.
Just remember modern oils are designed for modern cars with a very low if any amount of Zinc.
What ever oil you use make sure it has a high zinc content designed for solid lifters/flat tappit cam.
That is indeed the most important!
I live north and San Francisco, and today I did my first oil change since buying my 69 Beetle 7 months ago and used 20w50 valvoline VR1.. so hopefully, this oil is fine in it... it normally, even in the winter, is around mid 40s at the coldest rarely dips down to 30s.
Im in Toronto canada. I used castrol 20/50 for 20 years till it finally dropped a valve. The tear down revealed little to no wear.
Did you drive in colder temperatures as well, or was it more of a summer Car?
My Dad purchased a 1964 VW Beetle in 1964 from the dealership. We were not sure what type of oil was used when the engine was manufactured. On the first oil change, the engine had so much sludge in it. It was also getting harder to turn over the engine. My Dad cleaned out the sludge and replaced the oil with Havoline Motor Oil 30w. It was a High Detergent motor oil as recommended by the VW Shop Manual he also purchased from the dealership. Published by Delius, Klasing & Co. Bielefeld and Berlin. This manual states for the engine oil to be (HD oil for spark ignition engines). The lubrication points. Engine, oil bath air cleaner, carburetor controls, door hinges and felt ring in the distributor. Specifications were above 86 F SAE 30 W, and from 32 F and up to 86F SAE 20 W /20. Below 32 F SAE 10 W and finally anything below - 13 F SAE 5 W. Now days Havoline that we use has Anti Wear Additives, Zinc rating of 906 PPM (Parts Per Million). Yes, we still have the 64 Beetle.
Awesome story and thanks for sharing! That’s really great that you still have the car.
California guy here! V-dubbin since 95.. in the 90's we ran 20w-50.. zero issues.. 30w - zero issues.. currently 15w-40 shell rottella (aka diesel oil) ..reason.. it will survive the harsher air cooled vw temperatures and it has zinc..
Awesome! Thanks for the comment!
After watching this I have tried synthetic in my baja with a 1968cc. Im using 5/30 Kirkland brand. My head temperatures go from 280 to 310. It's 100 plus here in the high desert. The really trippy part. My oil temp is 90 to 110.
Dog house with a remote filter and full flow so my capacity is 3.75 quarts. I do add some zinc additive.
So far I'm a fan.
Please continue to give updates. This is so interesting.
I would use 10W 30 if I was you. These engines weren't designed for super-thin oil.
I live in UK so it's neither too hot or too cold and I've used Morris SAE 30w oil for nearly 25 years and it's always performed well..
Can’t go wrong with that
Whenever asked, I recommend “use oil with high zinc content”. The rest is up to you.
Pretty safe bet!
All year around in Florida? Or only in the summer?
@@nikittoo1 all year round your engine needs zinc.
I’ve researched this a lot and you nailed it and gave me more! Great job
I’ve run the AMSoil Z Rod SAE 10W-30 synthetic and love it. No issues.
Thanks for sharing!
snake oil
Amsoil always wins
I use Driven motor oil. Either their HR1 or HR5. Driven Hot Rod Oil is designed to protect your camshaft. With high levels of ZDDP to protect your engine. Driven Hot Rod Oil also delivers storage protection additives to guard your engine from rust and corrosion. These additives also prevent dry starts. Developed specifically for older cars, no other oil provides this unique combination of lubricant chemistry.
Thanks for sharing. I’ll look into that. Never heard of that oil until now.
Yes, because it has a high Zinc content.
For solid lift/ flat tappet cam.
The important thing is not "which oil ?" but "is there enough oil left ?"
The viscosity depends on the outside temperature only if it is extreme on one side or the other, it depends on the hot engine oil pressure, and the compression ratio.
this on an original T1 engine and in more or less good condition, with double oil regulation, original springs and pistons, and functional mobile air flaps.
Has for me. I have always used Castrol in everything I run. One example is a riding mower. I bough in 1993. I wanted to do a test. So I added Castrol 10W40 to it for the first run. Every time checked the oil before and after running it,the oil was so clean,I never changed it. It is still running to this day. And i have tried other oils in the past on cars and trucks,but always went back to it. Liked and shared.
The past few years I’ve been running Castrol GTX Classic 20w50 in the motorcycle and it has been excellent. It advertises as being high zinc which the bike needs for the flat tappet cam.
Valvoline Racing oil is a good option. You must use an oil with a high zinc content.
i use Castrol classic 20W/50 in my 1968 beachbuggy works great.
Good to know! Thanks for sharing!
This is what I use
@@davidalexander1946 I currently run Castrol GTX Classic 20w/50 in my 1980 BMW Airhead motorcycle
I plan on running spray bars to cool the heads and valve train.
I went through the same search and destroy mission of the best engine oil for my buggy engine when I bought it 2 years ago. After some research I settled on the Mobil 1 15w50 and will continue to use it here on out. No issue with Temps she runs nice and cool
Good to hear. It seems like an excellent oil, particularly for our needs.
I’d say if you add an aftermarket full flow filter, might as well add an auxiliary oil cooler.
Does it have a high zinc content?
I'm in Pennsylvania. Summers can get hot but typical outside temps are 60-90 when I drive our bus (my bus is a 2L). Anything above that, I drive my RAV4 for the A/C. lol I've been using Valvoline VR1 10/30 in my bus with no issues. Other VW guys where I live use 20/50 & they don't have any issues either. I do have Castrol 20/50 at home too which I may try if we have a summer that is unbearable with heat. I've always been told though to make sure my vw HAS oil & to change it regularly and I shouldn't have any issues.
Sounds like good advice!
Brilliant video! Thank you for sharing this!!
Thank you so much! I wanted to cut through the hype and dig right into the manuals.
Today in Southern Idaho it's 105°. My wife's dune buggy with a stock 1600 running conventional oil. 70 miles on the freeway head temp 400°. Shoot the dip stick and get 350°. My baja has 1968cc 9:1 compression and I'm running synthetic. My head temp 325° and dip stick 180°. I'm going to add the synthetic to the wife's dune buggy. That's just crazy cool.
Unbelievable
First of all great video, thank you!!
Here in Las Vegas where it's a bit warm I do run the Valvoline VR1 20/50.
Porsche 1.8l
I chose the Valvoline VR because it claims to have two times zinc❤
2 times what I don't know.
Now I think I see Valvoline also produces VR1 in a synthetic and that interests me.
Because, not to get into any kind of arguing or fighting but I think if the oil geek says it, it is so.
Thank you for the information! Sounds like you have a good plan for your area and climate!
Thanks for the good info. I use Pennzoil SAE 30 in my new dune buggy 1600 CC engine for now used in state of Wiscinsin in summer time only if I ever switch would be 15W40 dino, I also add ZDDP Zinc to oil, Chris
I’ve just changed my mind with oil. I’ve always ran t4 15w40 diesel oil but on my new 2332 I changed to 20w50 valvoline vr1 racing oil and couldn’t be happier. My idle psi when hot went up to a very happy number instead of almost 0
The Valvoline VR1 Racing 20w50 has a zinc content up around 1700ppm IIRC. . .. Many Porsche 911 owners of years '89 911 to '94 (964) series model thru the '94- '98 911 (993) air cooled series cars came thorough with Mobil 1 oils with (then, in the '90 decade) high Zinc levels; 1700ppm. . Fast forward,,, to mid the 2000 decade is when Mobil 1 begun reducing the Zinc content in many of its oils. .. Zinc and the CAT's do not mix... Mobil 1 15w50 for my '98 Carrera 911 (993) since new, and also M1 15w50 in our '79 SB cabriolet during the hot, hot Denver summer..
This is a great video!
Thank you very much for all of the information and the great reference you had here.
Cheers from an owner of a VW Split screen in Brazil! :)
Thank you! I’d love to visit Brazil someday!
For those who know, in California I use 20-50w. I’ve used it for 35 years. Valvoline. Premium gas.
Only chevron premium
Good to know
I put the deeper sump on my air cooled 1600 and run Shell Rotella 15w/40.
That’s always a good choice I believe!
T4,5,6? Went with T4 myself. Can't beat the 3gal boxes at the wally world
Just a heads up that the T1 formula has the highest zinc content of any Rosella T@@zm6922
@@MaineMachinistT1 Rotella is kind of hard to find in stock; mayne special order it. Even T4 is sometimes scarce at the stores.
I’ve been using Shell Rotella conventional for many years. Living in hot climates straight 40W or 15W-40 as a second alternative. My understanding is that the zinc level was adequate; I always use the STP supplement with it as well.
Sounds like a solid plan.
So you look for a quality oil then add some crap that makes you feel good, you should see what additives do to oil quality
In my ignorant youth, I always ran 20-50 in my built up 2ltr bug and R100RS, always in warmer (hot) ambient temps, and never had a problem. The Mexican beetle owners manual and the AC Porsche recommendations are telling. Thanks for your research.
meh.... My older brother owned a very successful German car shop for over 30 years. His slaves worked in the right side three bays on VW's, while he, worked in the two left side bays on vintage and rare Porsches and Mercedes Benz automobiles. His re-built engines were done via customers shipping them to him, and getting them back gold plated. His car collection included two Mercedes 300 something "gullwings" an Adenaur limo, and several choice examples of the 356 Porsche, including two with the early 12 volt electrial system.
He was Austrian born and raised, worked to the blasting sounds of Wagner, and he knew his stuff.
I drove aircooled Bugs. He built the engines and told me to use 30W Castrol GTX because the engines revved high for best efficiency and that oil was formulated for that type of use. He retained ownership of the engines and had a stake in their re-saleability. When I moved into a different Bug, he would remove the engine and sell it used to another client who was in need. He also used the same oil in his vintage 356 cars.
That was in the late 1970's. My Bugs were all early 60's to 67. Same with my brother's Porsches. Your results may vary. All this was in the Pacific Northwest of Washington State, where yearly temps are mostly moderate. My takeaway - apart from what oil you use - is to change it like religion. That's more imortant than what weight is in the sump.
All good information, thanks for sharing. The only thing I'll comment on is the Castrol GTX formula has changed in recent times by them eliminating a lot of the zinc phosphorous in order to be compatible with new regulations and catalytic converters.
@@MaineMachinist Yes. Oil tech went through a lot of changes because of government fiddling. I was in Mexicao in the late 80's. The air pollution was pretty bad. I m sure it had something to do with air quality regs that lagged behind the US at the time. Bugs, Busses, and Things were literally everywhere. I would say the ratio of aircooled VW's was 1/10 on any given street. A lot of them were pretty new but smoking pretty bad. Heat and slow traffic kills those engines.
I do miss my 67 Camper. My brother built a custom 2.2 liter for it. Better than his 356 engines, he said. It was quite the sleeper, no pun. Up the passes with me, my bud, and our two germans sheperds, and all the gear . No problem, as long as I didn't open it up. The original transaxle wasn't built for the potential of that motor.
When I sold the body (mint condition) my brother sold the engine to a guy who built a street rod Ghia. T'was a thing of beauty.
Those were fun days.
Redline 10-30 is all I’ve ever used In all weather conditions.
Thanks for sharing
My 1835 has a big oil pump. I run the thinnest oil redeploy available here 5/20 with a few oz of the Lucas break in additive. Even here in metro Phoenix. Way to much oil pump. Hot idle is like 20. It’s in a Baja so I don’t run it super long at high rpm’s.
In my beater 1649 with a regular size pump I run diesel type 15/40 with a pinch of the Lucas break in oil. I had oil pressure problems with hot idle before. I overheated it due to jetting once in 30 f weather. It was so hot the sleeve pulled out of the block when checking oil. Still runs ok. I only hit the freeway for like 5 miles max now.
I run castrol 20w50. I use either a zinc addative or the 20w50 classic oil or whatever they call it which has more zinc in it.
I’m a big fan of the 20w50 Classic for my 1980 BMW motorcycle, which is very similar in design to the VW 1600
I only use 10-30 royal purple, san diego bug with no issues.
I use full syn 5W30 Mercedes diesel oil in my 1999 1.2lr air cooled VW.
I have been running 20/50 weight in my 73 squareback original owner of my car You have to compensate for heat dispersion and breakdown
Thanks for your tips about what oil to be used for aircooled VW beetle, I do have a beetle VW drive it in a tropical condition at Cairo, Egypt, so your comments would be very helpful to find the fine tuned suitable oil for my car. Best regards
I’m sure any 15w40 or even 20w50 would be good in that environment
Lucas hotrod and classic 10w40 has a zinc ppm of 2100. This is all i use.( Im in the uk). Lucas does the hotrod and classic in 10w30, 10w40, and 20w50
Thanks for sharing!
@@MaineMachinist They also do a great SAE30 and sae 20w50 break in oil with a zinc content of 3634 ppm
I’ve just had a 1600 rebuilt and the builder recommends 20W60 with zinc. I have Penrite 20W60 and the container state it is a suitable replacement for SAE 30.
Been using 20w50 conventional with no problems. 15w40 Diesel oil works a charm too. Contains high levels of ZDDP
Wow I haven’t heard of that brand or viscosity before. I’ll check it out!
Zink is the most important only use oil that has zinc in it like rotella or pretty much any oil used in diesel trucks 💯
Definitely zinc is the most important factor
I’ve always used straight 40wt in the summer and straight 30wt in the winter
What kind of climate are you living in?
Everytime I use synthetic in my 2332 turbo air cooled vw, i get leaks at the valve cover gasket using the rubber gasket on the CB performance covers. But this doesn't happen with the Kendall 30sae straight weight. Since the kendall is a pain for me to locate at a reasonable price without a long drive, I'd love to use a 10w-30 synthetic if I could.
Are you using the Kendall GT-1?
I use 20w50 Kendall GT1 Competition with zinc. Having the zinc is a good thing for the magnesium case on an air cooled.
Excellent info. Turns out I'm using the best.
Glad it was a confirmation!
In 45 years of working on cars. I have never seen a car fail because of the wrong oil.. They fail because they have no oil or no coolant. Today's newer vehicles like thinner oils It is always advisable to use OEM recommendations.
I agree and think that most times people overthink it. Nothing wrong with getting the best we can, but ultimately there’s lots of cars on the road right now running junk oil or the wrong oil.
I agree, excpt with todays over engineered cars. Vintage Bugs are very forgiving, as long as there is enough oil and it is changed regularly. No matter what oil we ran in our old bugs, they still required at least a valve job at about 60,000. #3 was always the culprit., but oil was never the cause. They just get hot.
Not if the recommendation is from the EPA.
I run Mobil 1 15w-50 in a 65 Mustang with a 302 bored and stroked to a 331. I use the Mobil 1 because it as the appropriate amount of ZDDP in the oil for cars with flat tappet cams. I would assume the same oil would work well in our 74 Super Beetle with a pretty much stock 1600. I live in southern Arizona, and we don't get the crazy heat of Phoenix, but it's not unusual to get over 100* in the summer here and in the low 20's with the occasional dips down into the teens in the winters.
Thanks for sharing! ZDDP is definitely important!
15w40 Rotella or Delo.
same...diesel oil used on everything i own not just my duramax but lawmower too...
Well synthetic what is it ! It’s plastic and plastic makes a good insulator, it’s used in electrical components as a barrier, I believe in Gene burg as it helps stop the transfer of heat and also won’t pull the heat away so makes sense to me the heads would be hotter, you don’t want the oil to go much over 100degrees as that’s when it starts breaking down 😊
Interesting thought
How about adding zinc and phosphorous.
That is an option for sure. I prefer to get an oil that already includes it.
For my VW classics I use Morris SAE 30 mineral oil that seems fine. However, I am going to try an SAE 40 hoping it will not quite leak as much! 😃
Try conventional 20w50. Won't have any issues. Any API grade SG and above.
Thats always a battle!
I decided to use AeroShell 15W-50 to see how it performs.
Please let us know how this turns out!
Enjoyed this video, I looked but could not find a video of your findings using synthetic oil. Or have you not made it yet?
I’ve run quakerstate racing 15/50 q logic full synthetic oil with no problem.
Awesome. I’ll have to see if they sell that locally in my area. I don’t think I’ve ever seen it.
@@MaineMachinist I ordered it off Amazon. Thank You for Your response, have a Wonderful Day. 💯🙏😇☀️😃😊
My 70 bug is provided 20w50. I do not drive in the winter months
Thanks for sharing!
Hi there, any update on using Mobil for the last couple of months? Thank you
So what would be recommended for a 1915 with a turbo and external oil cooler and oil filter.
Would the elevation of the place I live in influence the choice?
Since a thinner air somewhat affects how an engine performs
That’s a great question, but I don’t see elevation being a major factor in the choice of oil.
@@MaineMachinist Thanks for replying!
After I watched your video, I tried to find Mobil 15w- 50 but they don´t sell it in Mexico, so I´m trying Motul 15w-50 classic, any advise about that oil?
Unfortunately I have no first hand experience with that brand, but I’m sure it’s a good oil. All the modern brands are far superior to what we had 20 years ago or more
Liked the video as it has so far come closest to what I'm looking for to see if if synth is ok to use in an air cooled British motorcycle. Perhaps after 1,000 miles running in
Let us know what you do and how it works out. I don’t see any real reason why synthetic would hurt that motorcycle.
Hey what were the results of you using that Mobile 1 and that Castrol Diesel oil ?
do we have the answer on head temps. I believe a blend of valvoline VR1 with high zinc and a conventional could be a good option.
I have not been able to conclusively prove anything as of yet.
Nice information. Going to share it with my friends.
Awesome! Thank you!
I would want to use oil that has ZDDP in it , in a engine like the VW's.
Castrol GTX Classic 20w50 has high zddp content
Back in the 70’s it was 30 weight that about what they had in California
Oils have definitely improved in a lot of ways since back then, plus we have so many more options now
Awesome video. I live in NJ and have a 71 Squareback w/ 1600cc, 73 Thing w/ 1600cc, 74 Super Beetle w/1776 cc and a 77 Baywindow w/2000cc. In all I run a 20W50. Temperatures in NJ falls within the high moderate range. Ive always wondered about the oil that I should use. I guess Im okay. Thoughts?
It seems to be working well! 20w50 is listed within the recommended specs so if it’s working well I’d just stick with it!
Is 20/50 with high zinc recommended for a brand new engine as well?
You can get 20w/20, it's Mobil Delvac 1220 High Detergent Oil API CF/SF. Only thing is you have to buy it by the barrel 😒
What about aircooled motorcycles oil? I use Motul 7100 20W50 on my hog, who also is an aircooled pushrod operated engine,like the VW and 2CV.
The only diference i see is HD have hydraulics lifter.
Would it be a valuable option?
The ratings on oil build on each other so the next rating up meets/exceeds requirements for the previous rating if I remember correctly.
I own a Corvair so I needed to find the answer to the oil question and it seems there are a couple oils that can work well, heavy duty diesel oil like shell rotella t4, racing oils and air cooled motorcycle oil. Atleast the corvair engine can run quite hot so the oil needs to be made to handle the heat.
It is correct that generally the latest oil exceeds the performance of the older rating, but the only problem for older engines is the modern oils have eliminated most of the zinc phosphorus since modern engines don’t require it.
@@MaineMachinist which is kinda weird since the engines that require high performance oil require the additive package in said oil which does have zinc.
I might see if rotella t6 has the zinc or something equivalent in function.
I'm just amazed how something that relies on so much data and science has so many misconceptions and differing opinions.
If you contact Rosella directly via email and they will get an answer from the engineers. I've had good luck with that. @@deltacx1059
@@MaineMachinist they are pretty good with that it seems.
What about using an STP additive?
I haven’t tried it on an aircooled VW although I had great success with it in an old Toyota Camry. It normally used a lot of oil but never used a drop as long as I had STP additive in it.
I have another thing to read regarding oil. This guy has his opinion and specifically has a section for air cooled engines. He seems like a blow hard but it's worth adding to all the other information you provided and take from it what you will. Do a search for Rat540. He also tests oil and has ratings of protection. He claims that zinc isn't the only factor and some of his tests showed that just because it had a bunch of zinc didn't mean it was better. He recommends 20-50 since air-cooled have a lower ability to control temperature. Cheers!
I’ll check that out today! Thanks for the comment!
@@MaineMachinist what did you think?
I personally run she’ll rotella 15/40
Rotella is a very good oil
Great video 👍
Thanks for watching!
I stopped using Castrol 20-50 after I contacted them years ago and they said they have zero zinc. I switched to brad Penn 20-50. I have a turbo engine that seems to run okay on temps but I thought about lower the viscosity to help pull heat but I am not sure if that is a good idea.
I recently saw that Castrol has released a product called GTX Classic 20w-50 that is specifically labeled as having high zinc.
@@MaineMachinist I might have to look for that.
I only use Brad Penn 20w50 in my FI Turbo...nothing else.
Awesome! thanks for the info!
10/60 Amsoil Euro oil. use Zinc break in oil for first 500 miles...
I haven’t heard of that one. I’ll look into it
O yes high zink is extremely important 😊
It’s the most critical
Kendall 20w50 GT-1 Competition has additional zinc. I'm in So-Cal with a '62 1200 aircooled that has a bus trans. Running bigger valves, deep oil sump, and a Dansk aluminum oil cooler for a later model in the fan shroud. Smooth on the freeway, 65mph with ease and lots of pedal left, very dependable.
its a big rabbit hole
Yes. Yes it is.
the gene berg/synthetic question is still rehashed to this day. it's not a conflicting opinion, it's inconclusive/incomplete research done decades ago (berg) vs actual science - synthetics remove more heat from engine parts, it's basic physics. so many people still glued to old, outdated information because they heard or read somthing once and haven't bothered to update themselves since. science doesn't stand still.
That’s one reason I set out to do this video. It also shows the evolution of VW repair manual specifications as oil technology improved.
AH ENGINE CODE: 1600 DP
1971 VW TRANSPORTER
Location: Homer, Alaska
Winter oil: 5w - 20
Homer winter air temp is between 0 - 20 degrees.
Note: Zinc is added for conventional oil.
Spring-Summer oil: 15w - 40
Homer spring / summer air temp is between 40 -75 degrees.
Note: 15W - 40 Rotella T with triple protection has approximately 1200 ppm of zinc and 1100 ppm phosphorus at the time of manufacture. ( No need to add zinc )
Awesome information, thanks for sharing. I exclusively use Rotella T oils in my old farm tractors. It makes a huge difference. My ‘49 Farmall used to smoke bad with regular 10w30 automotive oil. I switched to the Rotella T and it doesn’t smoke now.
Morris lubricants in the UK
Add liquid moly anti fiction too your oil
Hogwash... Rotella 15W-40 Diesel oil for my deisel truck, lawn mowers, VWs and everything in between.......been using it for as long as you've been alive😂
It’s good stuff, no doubt!
You don’t need synthetic oil as you won’t be happy to run it for extended kms due to the crude filter.
There could be some truth to this, but many people now have full flow systems installed that could make a difference.
@@MaineMachinist on a global stage not always available.
Please do the test lol
15w40 easy
I found this out the hard way. I thought I was doing something good for my engine. WRONG!!! SYNTHETIC OIL DOES NOT CARY HEAT AND MY ENGINE DIED VERY SOON AFTER CHANGEING TO SYNTHETIC!!! DON'T DO IT, YOU WILL REGRET IT!!!😢
Gene Berg has warned about this for years. I’m not sure yet how modern synthetic oil impacts things. In the video I consulted an oil specialist and he claims new synthetic oils actually carry away heat better than conventional oils.
I’m not sure what to think about this as of yet.
Might have plugged an oil gallery.
But the Bentley ISN'T an official vw manual... it's a Bentley manual. You make it sound like it's an official VW publication and it isn't. I will stand by my own opinion that 20w50 is too thick for a newer, tight engine. It's been proven over and over that using too thick a viscosity for YOUR situation will cause the relief valves to bypass the cooler. But obviously do what you want. I know what works on my cars. My FI high compression 1776 runs almost too high pressure on 10w30 VR1
Actually, it IS the official VW Workshop Manual that was the only authorized repair manual by VW.
@MaineMachinist Authorized yes, but not a true factory manual. If you look at the Mexican beetles, they specifically say 15w40 for example. Problem with any of these recommendations is that oil is very different now, and so are the ways engines are built and what products are used. The only true way to know you've got it correct for your build is to test oil pressure with a proper gauge
I won't EVER use it again!!!
Do you have a preference for what you use now?
Hi Michael, when you mentioned the synthetic oil that killed your engine. Do you mean this M1 15w50 or all the synthetic oils are not recommended?
@@chrislee2477 I’d like to hear more also
Just stop driving these old dogs.
They’ll never die
People drive them because they like them. No damn computers.