Jumper Cables Vs Bi-Wiring
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 พ.ย. 2022
- I've heard/read a lot of anecdotal evidence that bi-wiring works. I wanted to see whether it was the 'bi-wiring' that was making the improvement or was it the cheap jumper/bridge, plates/cables that come with the speakers that reduce the sound quality?
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You really gotta do a blind test to remove any expectation bias (placebo).
Close eyes?
@@johnmc3862 In case your not being sarcastic, you just can't know which your listening to when comparing, so your brain doesn't know which one to make sound better.
@bradt.3555
Due to the echoic hearing response of the human brain, you have to record both, and play them back as this test was.
That said, jumpering is better than a cheap plate of sheet metal.
Bi-wiring may or may not be better depending on your equipment, though bi-amping can be worthwhile if in the budget.
Cool vid, and stay childish👍
@@johnchase3920I assume you are referring to echoic memory, which I agree is very short est 2-4 seconds. Bi-amping is a whole diff deal as you have separate amps for hi n lo. Bi wiring because of the diff in load there would be diff current flow on each set of wires, could you hear a diff.? Extremely doubtful. And because of the diff in electrical properties of a piece of wire or plate 1-2 inches long, again you won't hear a diff. Even when recording and playing them back, by the time you start processing the new sound there's still the chance of expectation bias. I concluded many yrs ago, just set up a good sounding system and enjoy the music. Stop worrying about minute differences that may or may not exsist. Tho I understand the hobby of gear.
I have learned to simply enjoy what I’m listening to, rather than always analyze all the minutiae in a recording.
As a recording engineer, it took a long time to let go.
There are a lot of things you can hear in blind A/B, if you take note of the tiny things.
Is it worth it?
Not if I’m not responsible for somebody’s art while listening.
You can easily hear cable capacitance, however, should a slight change in the freqs ruin a listening experience?
Not for me.
How about $1,000 power cables?😁
Great video. I will replace the jumpers on my Warfedale Diamond 11.5 to 8 gauge wires and hope for the best. Keep up the fun presentation! Cheers from Mauritius
How did it work out for you? Any difference? Thanks...
Finally someone that explained & demonstrated, enjoyed your video...
This works! I recently bought some Q Acoustics 3050 floorstanders which have bi-wiring connectors (not the 3050i which do not). The jumper plates that came with the speakers were silver-plated stamped metal, and after watching this video I thought "what do I have to lose?" I already thought the speakers sounded great, so if this made them even better I was all for that. I used the Amazon US link that you provided above and received the new jumpers yesterday. They are made really well! Gold-plated spade connectors and really thick - I mean really thick (8AWG). Connected them up and there is definitely a difference. Clearer highs, more pronounced bass. So glad I watched this video and tried this - cheers Marty!🍻
Good to hear! It really does make a difference.
Gracias por mostrar tu experiencia, lo haré en mis wharfedale diamond 12.3, estoy ansioso de llegar a casa 😅saludos desde santiago chile 🇨🇱
Just replace my biwired Audio Quest cables for Canare Quad and I'm using the spades for the lowers and self made jumpers for the highs and as a result i have a six wires configuration on my speakers I'm satisfied with the results
I heard a very significant difference in smoothness and clarity thru my Grado Sr80e headphones. Can't wait to get home and make some jumpers!
I followed this tip yesterday with the set of 9.1’s in my loft setup. There is a difference.
🤣
Here we go again...
And make sure that you align your speakers with magnetic north, don't play DSD audio when Mercury is in retrograde, and put lithium batteries in all your remotes to maximize audio quality.
Also, holding your nose while standing on one leg reduces total harmonic distortion.
I can't believe it but I actually did hear a difference thank you
I hear a definite improvement with the biwiring, not so much difference between the biwire and wire jumps. I've just biwired some old Tannoys and absolutely get an improvement in the mid and hi frequencies. I'm just itching now to remove the cross over elememt entirely and bi amp the speakers, the sound should really open up doing that. Good vid!
You don't hear it. You can't hear something that doesn't exist.
Thanks, great video. I have made my own jumper cables but have not yet decided if I can hear a difference. However, another option would be to remove the jumper platers and just take the cable through both terminals. There would be a longer piece of bare cable and you would have to be careful the + & - didn’t touch but this would cut out the jumper cables or plates and the banana plugs which all could possibly degrade sound. Just a thought.
Or wrap insulation tape around the parts of bare cable between the terminals.
But most speaker terminal bridges are gold plated anyway, so you will find that they make little or no difference to the sound. So if you have them, I would just use them. It's less of a faff if your amp only allows for a single run of cable.
I was going to make my own but for £12 for some 10cm 12 AWG vandamme LC-LCO (which match my speaker cable) ones on Ebay i didnt see much benefit, although i may tin the wire myself and re-heat shrink them. Hopefully recieve them this week.😊
Based on my experience, my opnion is bi-wiring does not significantly affect sound quality. The signal is still transmitted in the same way, regardless of whether you connect the high frequencies (HF) and low frequencies (LF) to separate terminals, or use a diagonal wiring method.
However, bi-amping can potentially improve sound quality. This is because you can use two different amplifiers, each optimized for a specific frequency range. For example, you could use an amplifier that is good at reproducing midrange and high frequencies for the HF terminals, and an amplifier that is good at reproducing low frequencies for the LF terminals.
Ultimately, the best way to improve the sound quality of your speakers is to experiment and see what works best for you. There is no right or wrong answer.
I also spoke to an engineer from a UK HiFi brand, and he mentioned that it is difficult to say definitively whether bi-wiring has any benefits. He said that there is not much evidence to suggest that it can improve sound quality, but more research is needed
Yeah, bi-amping is more efficient, can use electronic crossover, all big PA systems use this. BIwiring makes no difference whatsoever other than costing more.
I’ve got wharfdale 12:1s and QED jumper cables I did notice a difference more clarity thanks for the video Marty 👍🏻
no you didnt.
@@James28R sorry I forgot you had my ears 😂
@@PaulDoldenDetails No reason it could sound better, than you expected it to. Did you actually "Blind" test this? If not, bias would be far more likely. I have "thought" I heard improvements doing this, but when unaware I could not reliably tell original jumpers from a paper clip, or audiophile grade wire. The mind, matters more than the ears in many cases.
Finally got round to wiring them up this way after a disastrous attempt at bi-wiring which seemed to take something away from the wharfedale 12.1 speakers, they just lacked the top end and didn't sound the same I thought I'd damaged them, so I thought I'll give that a go. Thankyou so much the sound is far better and back to how they originally sounded, Wishbone Ash's Pheonix is phenomenal, and uriah heeps the spell and paradise from demons and wizards the good and evil voices are split and clear. One happy bunny now 🎉 And I tried before and after and there is a definite difference
Hi. That was very funny to start a TH-cam video. 🇵🇹 also nice drawings/lettering with the comments.
Sorry, a bit late for this demo but I recently changed over some spring loaded connectors for banana plugs and found when I went to solder the wires for the crossover to the new connectors the solder would not take so I had to file the gold coating of. Would that coating stop a proper connection for the speakers .
It shouldn't really make a difference. Actually, copper is a slightly better conductor than gold. The gold is usually there to slow corrosion.
Where did the speaker wires be connected when they on 'standard wire' and 'jumper cables', hf or lf post?
Doesn't really matter but Wharfedale recommends the low frequency binding posts.
I actually just received a Cambridge AXA35 integrated amp and Wharfedale 220's. It's a modest system for a small space, but works and sounds well for my needs. I initially hooked it up, and did my best to position the speakers for best sound along with using a modest RCA cord and pre-made banana plug terminated speaker cables 16AWG. The cables are 6 ft. each. I didn't make any alteration to the speakers initial condition with the provided jumper plates. The system sounded great with finer and well-rendered music (audiophile recordings on you tube). I am also using an IFI blue tooth receiver with a modern smartphone as the source (which actually sounds pretty clean). I noticed that rock music and poorly recorded music wasn't as forgiving using the system especially without a subwoofer. I do prefer voice and instrument recordings which suits me fine. I was a little concerned when I listened to Willie Nelson's Stardust which was very familiar to me. While the voice and center stage were superb it was lacking subtle instrumentation I knew was there like quick light drumming. I started fooling with all types of settings with both the amp and phone to no avail short of turning on pseudo surround sound in the phone which colored the music, but brought out the more subtle sounds. I decided at that point I'd might as well try bi-wiring the speakers which I had done years ago, and didn't think much of. I used garden variety 14 AWG cable I bought at a home improvement store. I didn't want to invest a lot in something I was just getting desperate about to get more detail and ambience. I used the same length and connected the 14 gauge to my low frequency terminals, and used the existing 16 gauge banana plugs for the HF. Now I was ready to see what would happen, if anything. As it turns out, and I am quite sure it isn't a placebo effect, the sound had improved a bit almost immediately to my perception. It's hard to explain, but everything felt more controlled and pronounced. It's like the sonic accuracy had improved. Then I went to Willie Nelson's Stardust to listen for that drum. It was subtly improved. I could discern it in other words, so I am convinced bi-wiring was worth it for the ease I did it especially. I make even step the cables up at some point, but for now I'm satisfied. The music just blends better with the extra cable, and sending it to different connectors directly rather than using some jump plate. Well, if you made it this far, that's my two cents. (I imagine I could have just used a thicker cable in single-wired configuration, and gotten a sonic improvement or installed a better jumper, but what the heck, the extra terminals are there to take advantage of).
All you are achieving in theory, when Bi-Wiring, is moving the bridge to the amplifier terminals instead of the speaker terminals. But because you are using two runs of cable, instead of one, this creates less resistance in the signal path. But because the cable runs carry the same signal, your speaker crossover unit is still being used to separate the Low and High frequencies. So you may notice a slight improvement, because you are giving the signal more headroom, for want of a better expression. This is because your cable isn't having to work as hard to transfer the signal.
Bi-AMPING however, separates the High and Low frequencies at source, by using two separate amplifiers. Many AV receivers allo for Bi-Amping, by utilising a set of speaker output terminals that aren't being used by other speakers, such as 'Front Height' speaker terminals for example, and will channel the stereo HF or High Frequencies through those speaker outputs. And the LF or Low Frequencies ONLY, through your conventional stereo speaker output terminals, thus separating the signal at source, and giving a more direct path to your speaker drivers, bypassing the internal crossover, or giving the crossover a much easier job to do, by just feeding it the LF or Low Frequencies.
can i apply this on my amplifiers a and b channels
I dont care if anyone spent 10 grand on cables, they will sound no better than 1 awg cable, true fact
Totally agree....the metal jumpers suck.
I replaced em with Canare 6in 11awg jumper cables and gave my system significantly better dimension and clarity.
A worthwhile tweak.
I have a problem for you, that I can't rightly figure out... If you can help I'd appreciate it. I have 3 pairs of speakers so 6 in total, all hooked into a fairly decent sony shelf stereo with only left and right channel with subwoofer... A while ago I found resources like this and tried doing my speakers in what they called some combination of series and parallel at the same time. It seemed to work fine but I recently moved stuff around and didn't work out how they had been wired so I just redid them simply with all 3 pairs done in left and right channel. Wired from receiver to the 2 smaller left speakers then from them to the large house speaker. For both sides, left/right. I don't have banana clips and only have the kind you push the bare end of the wire into with the little clip to open the hole... on the house speakers and receiver.. the 2 sets of bookshelf speakers are both decent enough and are wired without any connectors.
Is there truly a proper way to wire them that you can suggest. I've been using all 6 speakers with this stereo for years and get good sound from them and the stereo can seem to handle them. It's been about 15 years so I'm not worried about damaging the receiver itself, other than it's older now.
Ask again but in 3 sentences, may be easier. Cheers
I did this a while back exactly how you did on Bowers & Wilkins 607 S2 Anniversary Edition Bookshelf Speakers & definitely heard a difference. The clarity improved on what I thought was amazing already, so much so the wife noticed too & that's rare. I also posess the same Marantz kit 6007 cd & amp as yours. I highly recommend anyone do this.
From memory those have a 2 R? resistor in series a 10% tolerence on the woofer,and you say a few uR can make a difference? what was you smoking?
Does the Marantz amp allow for Bi -AMPING? If so, try that. You should notice an even greater difference.👍
@@engjds were 😉 Past tense you see.
@@FreddysHamster Theory still stands, manufacturers cant measure 10% tolerence swings and customers think they can hear a fraction of that, its the old golden ear myth. Plus this is on a lower end B&W)
There is no way two wires are better than plates
I have shure 1540 headphones, only the faintest of difference was heard, but it has made my mind up to get a pair of these.
I noticed a very slight increase in the top end when the speakers were bi-wired, as you are using two runs of cable, therefore a higher capacity to transport the signal. But listening via TH-cam is never ideal.
In theory, bi-wiring is just moving the bridge between terminals closer to the amplifier, because you are still only using a single set of terminals for each speakerr. Therefore, your speaker crossover is still doing the work of separating the High and Low frequencies.
However, Bi-Amping uses two separate amplifiers for the Low, and High frequencies. Therefore splitting the signal before it reaches the speaker cable, and bypassing the speakers internal crossover completely. Thus reducing the amount of electronics the signal has to go through before it reaches the speaker drivers.
On cheaper speakers you may notice quite a difference when they are Bi-amped, as opposed to Bi-wired. As cheaper speakers will invariably have cheaper crossover componentry, that can detract from the actual signal, giving a muddy bass or treble, and an incoherent soundstage.
So I am a bit of a nerd, when it comes to wiring my speakers. And my amplifier allows for Bi-Amping. And this is the way I have wired my speakers. And they aren't cheap speakers by any means. But I do notice increased resolution, detail, depth, and a more 3 dimensional soundstage when my speakers are Bi-Amped, as opposed to conventionally wired with terminal bridges, and a single run of cable.
If your amplifier allows for Bi-Amping, then why not take advantage. It will only cost the price of some extra cable, and will help even out the demand on the amplifiers circuitry, by allowing both amplifiers to run concurrently. A bit like creating a run off in a river to irrigate a field. It will allow the river to cope with increased demand more easily.
Instaed of bi-wiring, just use a single run of heavier gauge cable.
Measure the jumper plate. If there resistance is pretty much nothing then is not affecting anything. Simple
The connector plates are obviously bare, (unshielded). So one may have the best shielded speaker cable in the world coming from your active crossover or your amplifier and there is still unshielded plates sticking out unshielded like a purpose built RF antennae. My argument is; that even the jumper wires need to be shielded.
Don’t mind the haters! Anyways, I think it’s only logical to replace those cheap, thin jumpers of unknown metal with some known metal thicker gauge jumpers.
Here’s what I heard through my floor standing speakers:
Standard sounded a bit stuffy with less range in the upper registers. Hard to judge bass since there was a lot of distortion coming through that microphone.
Bi-Wiring definitely opens things up more with better presence in the treble and a more airy quality. Quite nice IMO but not sure if it’s worth all the extra wiring and effort.
Jumper cables sounded similar to bi-wiring but actually sounded a bit more forward presentation-wise. Surprisingly noticeable difference and probably my favorite if you like a more forward vocal presentation like I do. Definitely worth the effort to do this cheap upgrade and the one I would choose over the others.
Thanks for the video!
I agree with scrapping the stock jumper plates with decent jumper cables. You can find World's Best Cable jumpers on Amazon for $25. Bi-wiring is nonsense. th-cam.com/video/McH2tlfj0vo/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgwvdRDDeQZ8iUAhUi94AaABAg.9myIo7DB1ph9n-mEsmjNot
There's absolutely nothing wrong with the bridges supplied with quality speakers, especially if they are gold plated. Most are made from gold plated stainless steel. However, I would recommend Bi-Amping, over Bi-Wiring, if your amplifier allows, negating the need for bridges altogether.
With Bi-Wiring, all you are achieving is moving the bridge to the amplifier, instead of the speaker terminal plate. You MAY get a slight increase in Treble if you use quality cable. But apart from that, there is no amazing difference.
@hermanmunster3358 I use the binders and only a set of 10 gauge wires and I don't hear any difference, but audiophile are going with emotions and suggestions instead of measuring and logic. They don't want to hear the cables they paid 5k for don't make any difference. As a technician, I find it particularly funny.
Yes the difference is there and can be heard. Though Bi-Wiring sounds much better than the other two. Jumper cable is second in line. Can any good electrical wire be used instead of speaker wire ?
i kept the strips on and also added a 12 gauge wire... instead one or the other i chose both.
but now i'm bi-amping so no strip or wire right now.
That's correct. 👍
The jumper cables somewhat improved the sound or am i mistaken ?
Every system is different:
Simple truth is:
The 2 posts are there for the use of 2 seperate channels to drive the speakers properly.
Tweeters do not require alot of power to drive as to the woofers or even some mids that do require some fire in the wire.
Most people are only going to have regular recievers, in that case use only 1 cable for the speaker and keep your jumper connected.
Its not going to change anything.
If you purchase a processor.
Research the speakers that you are interested in.
Call the manufacturer, ask to talk with the technical department.
Ask them technical questions about there speakers.
And ask them what power requirements do they suggest for the best sound reproduction for the tweeters, mids and woofers.
Ask them what was used to test the speakers individually or all together.
They may tell you exactly what amp works best with there speakers.
You had me at headphones. Only way to test speakers 🤣🤣
The weakest link is the human ear, everyone is different. Has anyone used a sensitve microphone to produce some type of graph so the difference(if any) can be seen rather than only attempting to detect by listening?
bi-wiring at least effectively increases wire gauge; bi-wiring two 16 gauge wires makes into a 13 gauge wire. When I used two 16 gauge wire to connect my passive subwoofer, I, anyone can hear the fuller sound. Then combing two 14 gauge wires makes into 11 gauge wire. I can here fuller sound again. Now, I use as bigger wire as banana plugs can accept for my passive subwoofer and bookshelf speakers.
Please don't change your style ever, YOU DEVIL!! Also your content is very good. Keep it up!
Bi-wiring out of the same (amp-side) binding post set into (speaker-side) several binding posts has an effect based on cable (!) properties which affect different frequency ranges (one of several physics explanations is 'skin effect' - in short: resistance of the cable is frequency-dependent, the higher the frequency the more the current runs only on the outside of one wire core). I.e., bi-wiring only does something if you are indeed using different cables (e.g., different thickness of the cable cores, different material mix of cores, different thickness of total cable).
Note: This has nothing to do with (expensive) cable voodoo, but rather say e.g., you want to use a thinner cable (or one with less cores) for the high frequencies' range - you could reach the effect to tone a bright speaker a bit down.
Whether this will result in audible difference, is up to (your) test. But: bi-wiring allows you to separate the effect that cable properties have on the sound for the two different frequency ranges. Hence: it gives you an extra parameter to tweak sound.
What you show in your video is consistent: if you use the same wire, you will have almost no effect. (Except: it might transmit 'more' power in total - but that would be reached also by using a thicker cable with more cores or twin cables into the same speaker binding post)
I find it all very hit and miss, and frankly mysterious! I've just got a pair of Tannoy R2s, and they're bi-wire able, and as they sounded a bit dull on my Onkyo A9050 (which allows AB speakers) I thought I would biwire them to see if it improves. Ive used exactly the same cable/length and banana plugs, and there is a definite improvement in the mids and highs, its a far more open and brighter sound, clearer. I've read that the crossover in the Tannoys is not great, so my next experiment will be to bi amp the Onkyo so that the speaker crossovers aren't used anymore. Im coming from Dali Zensor 3s which are very bright and detailed, so it is taking some readjusting getting used to the Tannoys, BUT they have great potential Im sure. A much more relaxed soundstage than the Dali's, so less stressful, but I am missing the nuance and detailing of the Dali's.
Sir, sound is very top high quality, speaker brand which company?
Sound quality is difficult over TH-cam because they use compression on videos, however using the JBL104 monitors I have on my PC, I could tell the difference between the standard and the other two, Bi-Wiring and Jumper leads both sounded like it had a bit more air to the treble so better for me. But fully Bi-wired compared to the jumper links sounded exactly the same to me, but that might just be TH-cam. The only suggestion I would make is, if you buy/make jumper leads try and make/buy them out of the same cable that your main cable lengths are made of just for a bit of continuity, However, any half decent cable should definitely be better than the solid jumper bars. Enjoyed this one thank you.
Don't be childish? Stay as you are man, I love these vids. My next biwiring experiment I'm gonna fat ass wires to the bass & hair thin wire to the tweeters. I dunno. Best wishes for 2023 my dude.
Hi mart, I used silver plated qed cable and side entry gold plate banana plugs . Regards mark
If you put bigger wires, like 12 gauge, it will do the same thing. Bi wiring isn't the same as bi amping. The wires carry the same signal. I'm a electronic technician with 40 years or so of experience, and use to say that if I can't measure any difference with a spectrum analyser or a distortion meter, human ears won't hear any difference. My devices aren't biased to any suggestions. Wires companies absolutely love bi wiring :)
I've had quite a few heated discussions with people who confuse bi wiring with bi amping!
Buy wire 😂
I've had a good listen......over and over.........the bi-wiring has a bit more definition on the upper mid range....not easy to tell on TH-cam but that's my pennies worth. That said having unequal ceiling heights above the speakers is not ideal.
Won't make the slightest bit of difference. If you think it does then you're kidding yourself.
Costs nothing to try though and if you think it's better, win, win.
Utube stream must be high quality. i could actyally hear the difference there.
What would happen if you hook up your speaker wire from your receiver to just the high side and not the low side? Will you just hear treble or nothing? Thanks
In a nutshell, yes.
@@UTILITARIANTVUK he asked two possibilities and you said correct) can't be both, I'll answer for you, he will just hear treble, you should pay me to be your assistant hehe
@@suzesiviter6083 Not necessarily accurate. Tannoy wiring instructions is to wire to the higher binding posts. The jumper plates will send power to the other set of terminals. BUT, I'd suggest scrapping the stock jumper plates with jumper cables. It's an improved connection.
@@zizendorf Do you know the resistance improvement of a 2cm or so length of wire vs a metal binding plate? ), there is no sonic improvement. We are talking uR's of a difference.
@@suzesiviter6083 Nope, don't know the resistance, Inductance & capacitance of that jumper strap? Do you know what that cheap metal strap is made of? Do you know what the improvement of signal might be? I do know the quality of the jumper cables I used - they're much better quality OFC. I do know it sounds better to me and lots of others have had a similar experience.
Who said that adults can't have fun!
Btw, if a bridge wire is better than the plate, wouldn't a zero length bridge with no extra connections (= single input) be even better? 😬 Maybe if one have separate amplifiers, with better filters, for low and highs, using two inputs may have some sense? 🤔 But so shouldn't one supposed to be able to bypass the speakers low and high pass filters then? Onest questions
IMO a single input is way better. I think it's only put bi-wired terminals to sell more cable.
@@UTILITARIANTVUK
It all depends on the quality of the speaker crossovers. If you have cheap speakers with cheap crossovers, then I would recommend BI-AMPING over BI-WIRING if your amplifier allows.
The difference with cheap speakers can be quite revealing, and dramatic.
But if you have quality speakers, then BI-WIRING may not make much of a difference, except providing the speaker with an extended headroom in the signal path, due to the increased capacity of the cable.
However, BI-AMPING bypasses the crossover, thus providing each driver with a purer signal, with no issues caused by crosstalk in the cable ect.
BI-AMPING should also improve clarity, detail, and soundstage.
Before you waste your time in future, message me first and run it by me).
A short run like that is in the uR compared with 8R/4R LOL, you will never hear a real difference.
Lets say its 3uR lower (and thats generous!), 20*log (8/0.000003)= -128dB which is below the threshold of hearing ) and far lower than the noise floor on your cd player.
Before you waste your time writing in comments sections, run it by the creator first to see if they actually give a s##t. 😄
@@UTILITARIANTVUK Hehe, good reply, will give you that).
Have been doing this for over 20 years. 🤓
Bi-wiring is an intelligence test.
10 + 4 = 23
A well-known company that sold 1/3 of all loudspeakers in the world 40 years ago, put a regular steel wire on its top model with biwiring option.
Any comment?
Steel, isn't a particularly great conductor. Was it Bang & Olufsen???? ;-)
@@UTILITARIANTVUKIt is silver in color but there are no signs of oxidation. I know that steel is not a good conductor, and aluminum would also oxidize
Acoustic Research, model AR 9
Being a little s*>t I must mention as you were yoinking the jumper wires they really should have yoinked clockwise so when you screw the terminal nut back on it pulls the cable in instead of pushing the pigtail out. He he ya ya wo wo 😅
PS - nice setup as well and demo music to…. Mmm…. Demo!
Bi-wiring does not work, electronically. It does in terms of getting rid of the crap connectors supplied by manufacturers. So, everyone should use speaker wire instead of the connectors, to connect the high and low. However, for way better sound you basically need two amps, so bi-amping.
Actually, Bi-Wiring allows for more headroom in the signal path, but you are right about Bi-Amping. But I wouldn't use two identical separate amps, unless they have a LF cut switch built in, otherwise you run the risk of blowing your tweeters.
My Onkyo receiver has built in circuitry to channel the HF to a seperate set of speaker output terminals, whilst the conventional speaker outputs are sent only the LF signals. Thus, my speakers are BI-AMPED.
Noticing that many good quality speakers only have one pair of binding posts surely if they thought that two pairs would be beneficial every manufacturer would fit two pairs instead of just one pair??
Yes and no. It all revolves around the crossovers put in the speakers. High end speakers have top notch circuitry. Low/mid end not so much, and can be improved with biwiring/bi amping.
Imo, insignificant.
Tv cable 75ohm
Sorry, but the buggs by 11,45 min. was not heavy enough. Use an anti-tank mine on your baggs, then you will definitely be awake ; - )
They work. My totem mites had more clarity and bass
I’m no audiophile or expert but even on TH-cam I can hear the bi wiring has more upper range definition. Looking as was going to bi wire my 12 year old then entry level system to give it a boost. My floor standing Tannoy speakers are renowned for being bass heavy and lacking a bit of high range clarity and definition.
Bi-wiring is nonsense. Just use jumper cables instead of the stock jumper straps. (I too have Tannoy speakers, love them and they improved slightly with the change. th-cam.com/video/McH2tlfj0vo/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgwvdRDDeQZ8iUAhUi94AaABAg.9myIo7DB1ph9n-mEsmjNot
I had a pair of Tannoy 607's back in the day, and they were a gorgeous, well balanced sounding speaker. A really nice tight bass, but a really smooth treble also.
They were stolen when some SCROTE burgled my house, sadly 😢
If you watch Mzillch on TH-cam, he debunks any form of bi wiring. It's just not possible to split an electrical signal from the same source, using two cables. As someone said, it should be called "buy wiring", because that's all you do, buy double the amount of cable for no possible improvement in sound.
'If you watch M Zillch on TH-cam, he debunks any form of bi-wiring' you say. Well he tries! The problem with his videos is that they are technically illiterate - he clearly knows nothing of Ohm's Law....although he tries to con us by the use of equipment (spectrum analyser for example) into believing he does.
The trouble is you believe him! Hence your second sentence 'It's just not possible to split an electrical signal from the same source, using two cables.' This simple process happens happens in millions of homes in a myriad of appliances millions of times a second across the world....why shouldn't it happen in a speaker system?!!
@@obscurazone I agree bi-wiring makes a difference but not for the reasons you state. With bi-wiring you are effectively replacing the bridge plate with cable which will give sonic benefits, essentially doing what this video is suggesting in a different way. However, the quality of signal being passed from the crossover to the speaker is totally dependant on the quality of the internal cables connecting the two. You can do whatever you want with elaborate set ups and expensive cables from the amp to the binding posts but once there, the crossover and internal cabling will always be the bottleneck on anything other than high end speakers.
Look mate.. You've obviously got it totally wrong.. Hoho heehee haha is the way to go
Hahah. More audiophile whacko stuff. In fact inside that speaker will be 5 cent per foot original wires connecting from the bonding posts to the crossover and speakers. Such BS here.
I can tell the difference.
Jumpers help a little bit very minimal, however you should bi amp not by wire to hear the difference. Bi wiring is a joke...
For BEST performance when connecting standard 2 wire to a speaker with Bi-Wire/Bi-amp binding posts. Connect your speaker wire (from amplifier) to the High Frequency binding posts, typically the top pair of binding posts on speaker.
Why please?
If the terminals are bridged, then this will make no difference whatsoever. But if they are NOT bridged, then you run the risk of blowing your tweeters, like you did presumably. 😅😅😅
Can’t tell any difference personally .
This whole Bi Wiring terminology is a gimic. Leave it to millenials to change the terminology. Most amplifiers do not have separate outputs for high, mid and bass frequencies. That's the job of the crossovers in the speakers, if they have them at all. There's three ways to wire speakers and there have always only been three ways. Parallel wiring, series wiring and a combination of the two, series parallel combination. Must we change the terminology? If you use a jumper from one speaker post to another that just means you're wiring both speakers in series. This means you have one current path so you don't loose current through the speakers but you do loose voltage because you can think of each speaker as a resistor in series.. However, if there is a crossover circuit inside, you must wire accordingly. I don't see how you would do it in parallel unless you have separate outputs for highs, mids and lows on your amp or receiver. In any case if you put positive to positive and negative to negative you're wiring in parallel. This whole bi wiring phenomenon is just more bs to distract people from the product itself. Look at the build quality and most importantly the frequency response of the speakers themselves. It is often better and relatively simple to construct your own speaker that in many cases will out perform high end speakers. Beware of gimics. Don't be fooled by terminology you've never heard. As far as I can see the wiring is still the same and has been for the last 70 years or so. What has changed is the materials that speakers are made from and they are much more durable and responsive to input signals.
My Tannoy R2s can be biwired. My Onkyo A9050 amp supports biwiring & includes how in the manual. So I biwired the speakers and the mid/hi frequency opens up and sounds more detailed. The difference is very obvious. So when you say biwiring is nonsense, it isn't. Also, the terminology biwiring has been around since the 70s. It's not "millennial" jargon, so please cut the crap.
True, I remember it was called parallel ,series, etc . I guess they just renamed it, but it's the same concept as old.
BTW you missed out bi-amping or mono blocks etc. .
Just leave the originals and add the cable. More is better.....
That short aluminum plate will have far lower impedance than the wire you replaced it with. Do yourself a favor and watch some videos on basic electricity from a reputable source.
Sorry, incorrect. Silver has the lowest impedance with copper coming in second, gold third and aluminium fourth. Silver is too expensive which is why most audiophiles prefer to use pure copper cables over copper clad aluminium.
If you think that makes a perceptible difference, why not get an ohmmeter and test it yourself? Until then, you're just waving your hands.
@@lishlash3749 An ohmmeter measures electrical resistance not perceptible sound differences. If I had an ohmmeter, I can 100% guarantee that it would show that copper has a lower impedance than aluminium.
Great, so you know how an ohmmeter works. Now measure the resistance of that metal plate and of the wire you replaced it with, and tell us what you get. (Don't forget to subtract the resistance of the ohmmeter's test cables.)
@@lishlash3749 So you are really prepared to die on this hill. In your mind an Aluminium plate has lower impedance than pure copper oxygen free cable? Anyway, this is a mute argument as the bridge plate is probably gold plated brass. 😆
So the stock jumpers are trash 🗑️...
Listening on Headphones will not work because by using Headphones you are bypassing the speakers.
Someone commenting negatively to your obvious enthusiasm that you show in your uploads tells us much more about the commentator than you. We like your intro, please don't change it to make some pratt feel he's got one over on you. And thanks for the upload.
You need to prove that there is a difference - not an opinion.
I don't 'need' to prove anything. 😄
Dude... really. Don't quit your day job.
lol
A waste of time
Ironically, so is your comment.
@@UTILITARIANTVUK still a snake oil salesman, fuc yourself
😂
@@UTILITARIANTVUK fuckn snake oil salesman
What exactly am I selling? I said that bi-wiring does not work and you may as well replace the brass plates with some decent copper wire and save your money. Hardly think a few inches of copper wire is going to break the bank.