Did these on a 1997 Crown Victoria. There is not enough space to remove the passenger side cover due to the blower motor housing being next to it. Take the drivers side motor Mount out, put a small piece of wood between the manifold and frame, and roll the engine to the drivers side and drop it down, this will give you the space you need to remove. Hope this helps someone.
Just a suggestion, borne of experience. If you have never replaced the blower motor relay, it may be a good time to do that with the passenger side valve cover off.
I noticed that my valve cover gaskets are leaking slighty, but I live in the rust belt so I'll leave them. That small leak has kept my front frame and associated parts rust free.
This would be a good time to consider replacing the intake manifold if you have issues (leaks, cracks, etc.), or if you haven't done it in like 100k...cause it's gonna blow at some point! The only additional effort to do so is to remove the throttlebody...thanks for this video!
I put the bolt sleeve (with washer) on the valve cover BEFORE I put the valve cover in place. The sleeves need to properly seat in the new gasket (they are secured within the gasket). Putting the sleeves on after the valve cover is in place does not garrantee the sleeve will properly seat in the gasket.
Didn't seem to need to remove my crash bracket, coils or even unplug them on my 2000 GMQ, but great video regardless. Upgraded to the 2006+ covers with the baffles.
Mine came off the drivers side on my 2006 without having to remove the crash bracket, or the TPS with plenty of room to spare. I did have to disconnect the fuel line on the passenger side to give me more room to get that side out easier.
Friendly tip for anyone watching: I used a razor blade and had an extremely hard time going clean over the mating surface to remove the gunk. I switch to a plastic blade and it was smooth sailing. It flew over the surface and removed all the gunk and RTV of the surface off the head.
The 97' Grand marquis has the evap emission line in a different place and the wiper motor assembly is directly in the way of the driver rear valve cover and the passenger side is nearly jammed against the evap box with maybe 1/4 inche of clearance..but on that model there is a trick, take the driver side motor mount loose while a jack is under the motor and lower the driver side of the motor, it gives you some clearance on the pass side between the evaporator box and the wiper motor on the driver side. It's still a pain as compared to the old cars.
Just some info for anyone with a later pi (power improved not police interceptor) model that has the larger valve covers you will not be able to get it out as it sits. There's difficult ways such as lowering the engine or removing the blower motor and ac box. Or you can use big brain power and cut a square in to that ac box where it blocks the cover from coming up. It will allow you to get that cover out no issue. Not an optimal solution and if working on another person's car this is not something I would do without getting their approval but boy it makes life easier. Tape the hole back up with good quality duct tape when done and it's like nothing ever happened. It'll save you hours of headaches
I did this a 2000 crown Vic p71 and had to nearly pull the motor,had to remove a motor mount to get the valve cover back in.would be good to have accurate information
You dont have to remove any of the ignition coils to do this job, or unbolt the throttle position sensor, or take the crash bracket off the left rear of the engine to do the driver side. By doing so, you run the risk of damaging the coil boots, snapping or stripping the throttle position sensor screws (they have loc-tite applied on them from the factory and usually MUST be heated up to properly remove them without snapping), and the crash bracket on the rear of the engine is extremely tedious to remove and should only be done when replacing the intake manifold. The driver side valve cover has more than enough clearance to come out without removing that rear bracket so long as you're patient with it. Instead, disconnect the engine wiring harness from the lowest connector below the brake booster.
Harley Fleming i used a short socket with a swivel and a long extension. When you do get it it’s very difficult to pull the cover off the ac is in the way you just gotta move and shake the hell out of it. Then putting it back is also as difficult but is doable. Just be calm because it’s aggravating 😂😂 trust me I’ve pulled my covers like 5 times
@@harleyfleming2519 I just replaced the cam followers and lash adjustaers on a 1999 Crown victoria. i had to unbolt the brake booster to get the driver side valve cover off. Do u think the passenger side will come off without removing the ac box on the passenger side. Thanks.
Mile Stone no you won’t have to, will just take some finagling to get it in there. Just make sure to put the grommets on first to hold the gasket. I’m an idiot and didn’t the first time and my gasket kept coming off. Some adjusting and she’ll go in
I would not remove the TPS sensor bolts unless I knew 100% the loctite was removed prior. The factory manual instructs using a heat gun as so much red loctite is used during assembly that bolt breakage will occur. There is a specific torque sequence for the cam covers, and torque value is 89 in. lbs. for the bolts.
I went to change my coils and spark plugs and when I looked down in the spark plug well it was half full of oil in one of them. Another one had a little oil in it too.. From research I've learned it's more then likely due to bad valve cover gasket and the the other gaskets for the spark plug wells. Not aware of proper name, sorry. I was having a slight misfire problem and hopefully this new gaskets, 8 new plugs and 8 new edlerbrock coil packs should do the trick. I like my cars right, no leaks or anything because it bothers me. 😅
Very helpful video. Question can the valve covers swap sides? My 04 p71 has the oil cap on the driver side under the cold air intake tube and it’s annoying to do oil changes with it in the way.
I hope someone reads this and responds as I need a little help. At 1:17 there's a hose from the valve cover to the throttle body assembly. I need to replace this hose but I cannot find the replacement part. Any help by way of what it's called or recommended part? Thanks!
Some mechanics say that you have to detach the engine mounts and hoist the engine a little bit. I guess they're trying to scare people out of the DIY approach.
it means oil was leaking from the valve cover and spilling into the spark plug well, that's all. you'll need to clean out the spark plug well real well...i used a bunch of paper towels to soak up the oil - roll it up and stick it in there a bunch of times (new paper each time) until you have mostly removed the oil. DO NOT remove the spark plugs to do this. if you don't get rid of the oil in any of the affected spark plug wells, your coil connnectors will short out and your plug will not fire...that's what happened to mine
Mine completely stuck on the drivers side him “just roll it up and out” me does all the same thing and has the while Intake and throttle body off and still can’t get it off
Does anybody have any suggestion/experience of a chemical (penetrating liquid) for an easy separation of the boot from a spark plug (given some time to soak) ? Thank You! p.s. Probably any diesel based liquid would do, but ... I'm thinking something NOT damaging/swelling the rubber.
From what you gave me it sounds like the plastic between the aluminum crossover and where the intake gasket is has cracked and started dumping coolant in there,next possibility is a bad intake gasket.Either one of those failures will still require removal of the intake manifold.
I've done this job a few times .... you will need a 15M and 3/4 "flexible" ratchet ... you will there for about 1 hour if this is your 1st time ... trust me .. they dont show because it is nightmare.... i hate it .. and by the way ... i dont put it back ... it is not needed .....
Very on the first try. You'll have to try a few different tools and a few different positions/methods to reach it. That bolt alone takes up about half the time of this job IMO. I did it twice in one month because my gasket folded in on itself and I had to redo it.
Brah you never used any RTV on the gasket to keep it in place on the valve cover. This guy what a rookie he is doing it all wrong. Like watching autozone doing my labor work I don’t trust it to save my life lol
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What is 89 inlb in ft lb
Did these on a 1997 Crown Victoria. There is not enough space to remove the passenger side cover due to the blower motor housing being next to it. Take the drivers side motor Mount out, put a small piece of wood between the manifold and frame, and roll the engine to the drivers side and drop it down, this will give you the space you need to remove. Hope this helps someone.
I did them on a 2011 CVPI and no more coughing from oil burning fumes; car runs better than ever!
Thank you.
it's easier if you put the nipples back in before installing. it helps hold the gasket in place.
Just a suggestion, borne of experience. If you have never replaced the blower motor relay, it may be a good time to do that with the passenger side valve cover off.
I noticed that my valve cover gaskets are leaking slighty, but I live in the rust belt so I'll leave them. That small leak has kept my front frame and associated parts rust free.
This would be a good time to consider replacing the intake manifold if you have issues (leaks, cracks, etc.), or if you haven't done it in like 100k...cause it's gonna blow at some point! The only additional effort to do so is to remove the throttlebody...thanks for this video!
You don't have to have the cam covers removed to do the intake.
Excellent tutorial very very helpful did both sides successfully
Just finished doing this to my 2011 Lincoln Town Car, i removed the wiper motor cowl. It made it much easier
I put the bolt sleeve (with washer) on the valve cover BEFORE I put the valve cover in place. The sleeves need to properly seat in the new gasket (they are secured within the gasket). Putting the sleeves on after the valve cover is in place does not garrantee the sleeve will properly seat in the gasket.
Didn't seem to need to remove my crash bracket, coils or even unplug them on my 2000 GMQ, but great video regardless. Upgraded to the 2006+ covers with the baffles.
Mine came off the drivers side on my 2006 without having to remove the crash bracket, or the TPS with plenty of room to spare. I did have to disconnect the fuel line on the passenger side to give me more room to get that side out easier.
Friendly tip for anyone watching: I used a razor blade and had an extremely hard time going clean over the mating surface to remove the gunk. I switch to a plastic blade and it was smooth sailing. It flew over the surface and removed all the gunk and RTV of the surface off the head.
The 97' Grand marquis has the evap emission line in a different place and the wiper motor assembly is directly in the way of the driver rear valve cover and the passenger side is nearly jammed against the evap box with maybe 1/4 inche of clearance..but on that model there is a trick, take the driver side motor mount loose while a jack is under the motor and lower the driver side of the motor, it gives you some clearance on the pass side between the evaporator box and the wiper motor on the driver side. It's still a pain as compared to the old cars.
Just some info for anyone with a later pi (power improved not police interceptor) model that has the larger valve covers you will not be able to get it out as it sits. There's difficult ways such as lowering the engine or removing the blower motor and ac box. Or you can use big brain power and cut a square in to that ac box where it blocks the cover from coming up. It will allow you to get that cover out no issue. Not an optimal solution and if working on another person's car this is not something I would do without getting their approval but boy it makes life easier. Tape the hole back up with good quality duct tape when done and it's like nothing ever happened. It'll save you hours of headaches
It took some interesting maneuvering, but I was able to get mine out without doing that. It’s difficult but it was possible.
@@chriswillman5829 any info would b much appreciated
I got mine out. I can't get it back in now. The valve cover makes real solid contact with the blower box.
I did this a 2000 crown Vic p71 and had to nearly pull the motor,had to remove a motor mount to get the valve cover back in.would be good to have accurate information
You dont have to remove any of the ignition coils to do this job, or unbolt the throttle position sensor, or take the crash bracket off the left rear of the engine to do the driver side. By doing so, you run the risk of damaging the coil boots, snapping or stripping the throttle position sensor screws (they have loc-tite applied on them from the factory and usually MUST be heated up to properly remove them without snapping), and the crash bracket on the rear of the engine is extremely tedious to remove and should only be done when replacing the intake manifold. The driver side valve cover has more than enough clearance to come out without removing that rear bracket so long as you're patient with it. Instead, disconnect the engine wiring harness from the lowest connector below the brake booster.
+Poor Productions Inc We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
How did you get the passenger side to just drop back in? Mine is 2006. What year is this car?
How did you remove that rear bottom bolt holding the valve cover in place
streetaffiliatesfounder did you ever figure this out? Currently stuck
Harley Fleming i used a short socket with a swivel and a long extension. When you do get it it’s very difficult to pull the cover off the ac is in the way you just gotta move and shake the hell out of it. Then putting it back is also as difficult but is doable. Just be calm because it’s aggravating 😂😂 trust me I’ve pulled my covers like 5 times
@@jaylonramos8640 thanks, i've had it done for a bit now but that was quite aggravating
@@harleyfleming2519 I just replaced the cam followers and lash adjustaers on a 1999 Crown victoria. i had to unbolt the brake booster to get the driver side valve cover off. Do u think the passenger side will come off without removing the ac box on the passenger side. Thanks.
Mile Stone no you won’t have to, will just take some finagling to get it in there. Just make sure to put the grommets on first to hold the gasket. I’m an idiot and didn’t the first time and my gasket kept coming off. Some adjusting and she’ll go in
Is the gasket supposed to be visible after it is replaced? Just had mine changes
Great video. Man ur good! Would love to have you work on my crown vic....
I would not remove the TPS sensor bolts unless I knew 100% the loctite was removed prior. The factory manual instructs using a heat gun as so much red loctite is used during assembly that bolt breakage will occur. There is a specific torque sequence for the cam covers, and torque value is 89 in. lbs. for the bolts.
Having a difficult time with the stud on the back of the bracket. 15 mm on drivers side. How do I get it loose?
I went to change my coils and spark plugs and when I looked down in the spark plug well it was half full of oil in one of them. Another one had a little oil in it too..
From research I've learned it's more then likely due to bad valve cover gasket and the the other gaskets for the spark plug wells. Not aware of proper name, sorry.
I was having a slight misfire problem and hopefully this new gaskets, 8 new plugs and 8 new edlerbrock coil packs should do the trick. I like my cars right, no leaks or anything because it bothers me. 😅
Does doing this prevent oil from going in spark plugs on these cars?
Very helpful video. Question can the valve covers swap sides? My 04 p71 has the oil cap on the driver side under the cold air intake tube and it’s annoying to do oil changes with it in the way.
Great video. Very informative. Thank you.
Nice work. I'm sure I need this repair. How long did it actually take to complete this repair? Also, how much would a mechanic charge for this repair?
ive done the left side two times and i cant get it back on without leaking in the back
Keeping the coils in orde why? I changed the one's on my 09 cvp and put in no order and had no problem
Why did you have the cap for the coolant res. off?
I hope someone reads this and responds as I need a little help. At 1:17 there's a hose from the valve cover to the throttle body assembly. I need to replace this hose but I cannot find the replacement part. Any help by way of what it's called or recommended part? Thanks!
How did you put screw number 7 in.. why is that part skiped... because it's hard to remove
use a extension with a swivel
Is this before or after the intake manifold blows, since they all do.
Some videos people removing the blower motor connector & resistor is that necessary to do.
+Kievon Dee Not if you are just replacing the valve covers!
I just unplugged the harness.
Some mechanics say that you have to detach the engine mounts and hoist the engine a little bit. I guess they're trying to scare people out of the DIY approach.
How do you get to the last bolt on the left hand side, I can not get that bolt off to save my life
I just ran into this same problem
Use a ratcheting wrench.
Mine has oil in the coil/spark plug area. What does that mean?
it means oil was leaking from the valve cover and spilling into the spark plug well, that's all. you'll need to clean out the spark plug well real well...i used a bunch of paper towels to soak up the oil - roll it up and stick it in there a bunch of times (new paper each time) until you have mostly removed the oil. DO NOT remove the spark plugs to do this. if you don't get rid of the oil in any of the affected spark plug wells, your coil connnectors will short out and your plug will not fire...that's what happened to mine
How do you install new seal grommets?
Mine completely stuck on the drivers side him “just roll it up and out” me does all the same thing and has the while Intake and throttle body off and still can’t get it off
Does anybody have any suggestion/experience of a chemical (penetrating liquid) for an easy separation of the boot from a spark plug (given some time to soak) ?
Thank You!
p.s.
Probably any diesel based liquid would do, but ... I'm thinking something NOT damaging/swelling the rubber.
Pb blaster
How to know if valve gasket is damaged?
Be nice is TRQ would explain how to get the hard bolts out and or put the valve cover back in and on. More explanation would be great.
This looks a bit intimidating.
But i think i can do it
+CD ROD Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
It's easier than it looks. Not much to mess up as long as you don't force things.
I have a 2004 and i have coolant on my spark plus cylinder 5 misfire what do i do i drove it and gives me a rough idle and feels it wants to turn off
From what you gave me it sounds like the plastic between the aluminum crossover and where the intake gasket is has cracked and started dumping coolant in there,next possibility is a bad intake gasket.Either one of those failures will still require removal of the intake manifold.
Sometimes, a clogged fuel filter will make it want to die at an idle also. I've had that issue.
HOw difficult is it to get that bottom rear bolt out?
Thts what I'm saying it never showed that part in video and that's the only part I really want to know..lol
I've done this job a few times .... you will need a 15M and 3/4 "flexible" ratchet ... you will there for about 1 hour if this is your 1st time ... trust me .. they dont show because it is nightmare.... i hate it .. and by the way ... i dont put it back ... it is not needed .....
what bottom rear bolt...to the valve cover? Driver of pass side? I need to know!!!
Oh, I see - the 15 mm on the driver side - bracket bolt. Well, Super Mario says it isn't needed....we'll see!
Very on the first try. You'll have to try a few different tools and a few different positions/methods to reach it. That bolt alone takes up about half the time of this job IMO. I did it twice in one month because my gasket folded in on itself and I had to redo it.
Want not just leave the boot in there if it's stuck?
الله يجعلك تسلم
1998-2011* there is no such thing as a 2012 crown victoria
Not in North America, anyway.....some '2012' models went to Saudi and other Middle Eastern countries.
@@airborne63 welp I guess I just learned something new lol thanks Haha
in my mind there is. it is a 2-door & has 5.4l motor. ;)
I specifically came here to see where the grommets were, how to remove and reinstall. :(
"It's nice and hard"
Where’s the grommet installation??
I'll give u $200 to replace mine on my 96 lincoln town car lol
2011 is the last year of the crown victoria. Even the title of this video is wrong.
I just need 1 grommet...
Bull sh** how you took the valve cover off.
Brah you never used any RTV on the gasket to keep it in place on the valve cover. This guy what a rookie he is doing it all wrong. Like watching autozone doing my labor work I don’t trust it to save my life lol
Don't need RTV on the cover. It has grooves to hold the gasket on. Rookies use RTV way too much.
Because it has factory RTV.