Well it turned out my 4.6 on the left side had a broken valve spring on number one cylinder which caused me two broken valves and two vent valves. Took everything apart took the head off and replaced the valves, lapped them in, installed new timing chains and gears , new water pump while apart and now she's up and running again perfectly. And a mechanic told me I needed a new motor.! Did everything thing myself.
Wow very nice, that is not easy work. Sometimes shops or dealerships call it a motor because they do not know how to go in and pin point the actual failure. Also could be the mileage on the engine. For instance if we have an engine with over 150k miles and it has some sort of failure where the head needs to come off we recommend the engine because of the chance of a problem due to mileage. We have a very extensive warranty and covers quite a bit of mileage. So we have to be able to stand behind it. Happy you got it done and hopefully my video helped out. Thanks for watching.
Cost me about 500.00 for parts , doing the labor myself. Runs good now. Lapped the news valves , new valve seals. Now pushing 290,000 miles and going strong.
@JohnnyCab that is awesome to hear, I had a Ford V10 in a motor home with 40k on it with a misfire. Dealer told them it needed an engine. I diagnosed with a bad valve, took the head off sent out to machine shop. Ran great afterwards.
Excellent, detailed and clean video, brother. I’m a young mechanic and I’m still learning. I watched your video because I’m going to replace my timing chains. It really helped a lot. Thank you!!!
@yungmeldrumswag4221 what do you mean seated the gasket? You can message me on Instagram with your vehicle info and I can help you out. Thanks for watching
@@NutsandBoltswithTone you skipped the part of installing the head gasket and putting the cylinder head back on I had 3 bolts on the passenger head side that was bumping the frame not allowing me to put the head back on I couldn’t get it to save my life but I figured it out. Used some weed eater string to hold the bolts above the thread so I could easily slide the head back in place.
Killer vid! I wonder if filming causes things to be missed. Don’t worry even with your warning I would still forget to install the dip stick tube and have to go back and fix it. The best thing about Sunday is a Tone Vid!
Have you confirmed if the coil is good? Swap it with a known good cylinder. Also for having oil on spark plug could be valve seals allowing oil in cylinder. After replacing spark plug does misfire go away? Thanks for watching. Hit me up on Instagram if you need any help.
I like the way you talk in laymen terms , i may be doing this same procedure using your great video to help me because my 2008 E250 4.6 just crapped out on me i think a headgasket or maybe valve related. Had somone check it out and was told no compression in cylinder one. (p.s. i just liked and subscribed)
I had a motor home with this engine come in and the Ford dealer told them they needed an engine, they brought it to me and I looked at it, found 1 bad intake valve. Did head job and was fixed up nice. Thanks for watching. I did compression test found 0 psi on one cylinder. performed leak down and was coming from intake. removed intake manifold and could see the problem
Don't worry brother, I'd finish up and have a nut & bolt leftover that went internally down deep in the motor😩😫 🤣 Awesome video Tone, you definitely know your stuff!!!👍👍 Jay 🕊🕊🕊 God Bless.
My 98 Ford F-150 4.6 2 valve is using some coolant. It has a miss (shake) that lasts about 30 seconds when the engine is cold then goes away. Could it be coolant in the cylinder creating a hydrolock? Question; if I have coolant in the sparkplug well than it's probably the intake gasket? But if I have coolant in the cylinder than it's the head gasket? Great video. Thanks 😊
Thanks for the informative video. I have a 2007 Ford f-150 STX and i have a blown head gasket, i saw that you had the Fel Pro head gasket but would you recommend getting any other new gaskets?
Also I hadn’t replaced PCV valve since getting vehicle at 100k. Replaced PCV when I did plugs. When I replaced PCV I shook old one and it didn’t rattle. Could not changing PCV cause oil to build up in wells on that side of engine and if so will oil eventually burn off. Thx in advance.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone I changed intake manifold gaskets, fuel injector o-rings, plugs, coil boots, thermostat w/o-ring, clean throttle body, clean EGR and tube, new PCV valves. Code P0172 when all put back together now currently rides rough, had misfire codes P0300, P0303, P0304. Codes for cylinders cleared on its own. P0172 still illuminated. No smoke from tailpipe
Great video, thanks man. Where’d you find a new rubber cap for the aftermarket intake? I have one leaking out and searching the internet not seeing any.
The rubber cap fell off my truck couple months ago thankfully the truck had a safty feature (Ford's Fail Safe Cooling, i think that's the name) and the PCM cut and starved the engine off any fuel before it could do any damage to the head gasket. After i got a new intake under warranty, and install it in the truck, I was wondering if I should replace that clamp with a better clamp so the cap doesn't fall off again
Thank you man I appreciate that. Funny thing about the torque specs is that I used Fel Pro head bolts and they come with an updated torque spec procedure. You need to replace head bolts when you do this job so if you are going to use Fel Pro head bolts just follow the procedure. If you are not going to let me know and hit me up on Instagram I will try to help you out. Thanks for watching.
After watching this I think I’m ready the only thing that had me worried was timing chain part but I’ll just rewatch this vid and I should be ok I’m already at the valve cover gasket looking at my cams already because my crown Vic 2011 had broken one of the spring on cylinder 1 I’m guessing my valves is bent because when I go to replace spring retainer and the rocker arm the rocker arm won’t adjust on it will get tight if I turn the cam lobes but after few spins the rocker arms just gets loose again it’s I hear the 4.6 motor are known for having there valve springs snap?
@rickchapman3707 probably ok, as long as it was not over heated too bad. I don't do head galleys over 150k but that's because we have a very long warranty.
When initially removing the cylinder heads to replace head gaskets, do I need to make sure timing marks are lined up TDC before removing timing chain and cylinder heads?? And then again when reassembling, the cam marks need to be as close as possible to the same spot it was in when removed (11ish passenger side and 12ish driver side) correct?? Thanks in advance Great Job On The Detailed Video
You want the timing to be correct when disassembling so it is easier to put back together. Yes you need the cams to be as close as possible so you can get it in time.
Crazy question on the 4.6 2V - is it possible to have a blown head gasket and other than the coolant level going down that it still runs great. I installed a Dorman intake a couple of years ago. I have looked all over for coolant leaks and there are none that I can find. The engine oil is fine, no coolant in the oil. I've checked all hoses fittings heater core radiator water neck intake manifold, and its all dry. Is there anything I might have missed? The cooling system is losing about a quart every 20 miles. In two days I'll be able to check for gasses in the coolant. Other than the coolant level dropping, it runs fine.
If you have no external coolant leaks then it is most likely blown head gasket. You can get a tester to test for it. Here is a link to one amzn.to/4dwu8fQ
I had 1 of these I thought had a head gasket issue that turned out to be just 1 gasket on the intake manifold. Water pump galley on the right front of intake manifold pumping water into #1 cylinder. When I cracked the drain plug on oil pan coolant poured out.
@@ericponta9771 I should have posted a follow up. This car had sat for at least a year with the heater core removed and the cooling system open. Apparently there was a large air bubble created when it was reassembled and it took a while to get it out. Shortly after my initial post it stopped needing coolant added - it has held its current full level for 4 months, checked every week.
Using my grandma's phone so I'm under a different name but I'm 21 and getting ready to change head gaskets for a 97 lincoln thanks for all this information I appreciate it, also is it necessary to disassemble the whole head to replace the head gasket 🤔
You made me laugh, thanks for the reply. You do not need to remove camshaft to do the head gasket however if you are replacing head gaskets you should send heads to the machine shop to have them checked. When we send heads to machine shop they want them disassembled. Good luck and Thank you for watching. Message me on Instagram if you have any more questions.
Hey I was just wondering instead of taking the whole head apart and taking the cams out can’t I just use a cam holding tool and take the head out with the cams so I don’t have to retime the cams don’t won’t to really mess with moving the cams and putting them back in wrong and mess something up
@blakegrymonprez3764 but you still need to disassemble the head when u send it out to machine shop. Retiming cams is not difficult. U won't be able to hold can completely in place and remove the heads just mark chain to can sprockets and crank sprockets with oil based paint pen you'll be fine
@blakegrymonprez3764 you mean your just replacing your head gaskets and that's it? If so then I guess you don't have to. I have never removed cylinder heads and not sent them to machine shop.
Hey Nuts & Bolts. Great video. You surely know your stuff. Question: Ford E150 w/250k I changed spark plugs at 225k and noticed cyl 2 had little oil on threads. Went back in at 250k and all plugs on bank 1 (cyl 1-4) now have oil in wells. Was told by 2 shops that with that type of high mileage probably needs new engine. Now vehicle burning rich. Thoughts? Keep,up the good work.
Hey bud thanks for reaching out and watching. This is a question that has a complex direction. Can you message me on my Instagram and I can help you. Send me all the vehicle info. Oil on soak plug threads does not necessarily mean it needs an engine. I look forward to hearing from you
@@NutsandBoltswithTone this may sound strange in today high tech world but I have never InstaGram anyone. How do I do that? Alt 60s senior citizen here. Thx
I have a 2012 ford e250 the right side of cylinder head is leaking oil , but the head gasket is not blown ,can I replace the 1 gasket on the right side ?
Yes you can, you do not have to do both. Generally you do because the gaskets come with two and also because if you are already that far into it, if you only replace one and the other one fails you have to take a all a part again. Thank for watching. Message me on Instagram if you need anymore help.
I ended up buying new heads for mine because one was ruined so the used heads I got had 50000mi on them and were machined but needed cams valves springs and all so I lapped did the leak down test and everything is good I’m just scared to put the heads on rn I know I can do the timing no problem but what if my cams are sitting wrong or something idk just don’t want to mess it up after all the money I’ve stuck in this truck along with two other broke down cars😂
before putting cams in put the sprocket on the cam lightly so you can see where the timing mark is, then you can reference the cam to proper location. Message me on Instagram
I believe you would need a one piece plastic gasket set but not sure, can you message me on Instagram and I can try to help you out. Thanks for watching.
I believe that is the same, as long as it is a single cam which I am pretty sure it is. Message me on Instagram if you need any help or have any questions. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
Hello, I was hoping someone could verify something for me. I’m in the process of this repair I have the heads back from the machine shop I just want to make sure I put everything back together correctly. The question I have is; where exactly do I position my main crank shaft? Is that supposed to be at 11 o’clock or 12? Thanks.
@mlkaos i can't share that. However I have partnered with Emanualonline.com which has factory repair info, repair procedures and torque specs. Use code NUTS&BOLTSWITHTONE for a discount. Check it out
I do agree that lubing all metal-to-metal components but WHY then start the engine with a little or a lot of cranking before it starts. WE ought to prime the oil system before allowing it to start, disable fuel pump, spark, or injection, and crank and crank with an additional battery jump until oil pressure is verified either on a dash gauge or manual pressure gauge or maybe an easily installed rocker cover is left off to watch for positive oil flow. Button everything up and allow the engine to start once positive oil flow has been established, please. Thank you for this time-lapse with torque values & part numbers & TIPS about the mistakes.
This is actually a good point, if this was engine that was completely rebuilt then yes priming the oil system would be necessary however I have found that if you are only disassembling let's say the cylinder heads or timing cover priming the oil system is not necessary. That is a great question. Thank you for watching and for the feedback I appreciate it.
feedback on the feedback LOL, the crank and con rods are down there next to the oil pump and they all have some soft bearings to take some damage, the cam journals are the last place for oil to be delivered, if it is delivered quickly, and no soft bearings of any type. I know you lubed things up but I believe in positive pressure especially when I can monitor it with a valve cover already off, love your work and much appreciate your skills, we all could use a little improvement from time to time. Here you are on a worldwide platform Mentoring young techs and all others who watch your channel, maybe your statement is the way you work daily but going above and beyond on video is best. Plain oil will push off to the side while assembly lube will stick there for a little while as a better choice if positive pressure will not be checked. No worries mate@@NutsandBoltswithTone
I'm pretty sure I didn't use a timing kit for this engine. It's a single cam engine. The dual cam engines you need a timing kit for. We have the whole master Ford timing kit. Thanks for watching.
@StroppyBeast generally is up to the service advisors and what's available. I have seen a lot of videos of people using cloyes and then failing very early sometimes causing catastrophic engine damage. Safest bet is oem
Well it turned out my 4.6 on the left side had a broken valve spring on number one cylinder which caused me two broken valves and two vent valves. Took everything apart took the head off and replaced the valves, lapped them in, installed new timing chains and gears , new water pump while apart and now she's up and running again perfectly. And a mechanic told me I needed a new motor.! Did everything thing myself.
Wow very nice, that is not easy work. Sometimes shops or dealerships call it a motor because they do not know how to go in and pin point the actual failure. Also could be the mileage on the engine. For instance if we have an engine with over 150k miles and it has some sort of failure where the head needs to come off we recommend the engine because of the chance of a problem due to mileage. We have a very extensive warranty and covers quite a bit of mileage. So we have to be able to stand behind it. Happy you got it done and hopefully my video helped out. Thanks for watching.
How much did it cost u ?
Cost me about 500.00 for parts , doing the labor myself. Runs good now. Lapped the news valves , new valve seals. Now pushing 290,000 miles and going strong.
@@JohnnyCab thanks 🙏🏾 I appreciate that info
@JohnnyCab that is awesome to hear, I had a Ford V10 in a motor home with 40k on it with a misfire. Dealer told them it needed an engine. I diagnosed with a bad valve, took the head off sent out to machine shop. Ran great afterwards.
Excellent, detailed and clean video, brother. I’m a young mechanic and I’m still learning.
I watched your video because I’m going to replace my timing chains. It really helped a lot. Thank you!!!
Thank you and that is awesome. Good luck.
Listen when you do this I cannot stress this enough! Mark and paint everything!
Yessir that is the easiest way to do any work with timing.
@@NutsandBoltswithTonety so much foe this video!!!!
probably the best 4.6 head gasket vid i could possibly find on youtube. so glad i came across your channel 👍🏾
Thank you very much I appreciate it. I am happy to help. Thanks for watching.
How he didn’t show how he seated the gasket that’s where I’m at and expected that part to be in the video
@yungmeldrumswag4221 what do you mean seated the gasket? You can message me on Instagram with your vehicle info and I can help you out. Thanks for watching
@@NutsandBoltswithTone you skipped the part of installing the head gasket and putting the cylinder head back on I had 3 bolts on the passenger head side that was bumping the frame not allowing me to put the head back on I couldn’t get it to save my life but I figured it out. Used some weed eater string to hold the bolts above the thread so I could easily slide the head back in place.
@yungmeldrumswag4221 oh I gotcha. Glad you figured it out. Thanks for watching
Excellent video, just what I need. The machine shop guru asked that I bleed the lifters with a bench vice, only thing I'm still figuring out.
Killer vid! I wonder if filming causes things to be missed. Don’t worry even with your warning I would still forget to install the dip stick tube and have to go back and fix it. The best thing about Sunday is a Tone Vid!
Thank you Bill I affording that. Yeah filming things makes it tricky. I appreciate you watching
Great video!
I'm currently troubleshooting a misfired cylinder with the presence of oil on the spark plug.
Have you confirmed if the coil is good? Swap it with a known good cylinder. Also for having oil on spark plug could be valve seals allowing oil in cylinder. After replacing spark plug does misfire go away? Thanks for watching. Hit me up on Instagram if you need any help.
I like the way you talk in laymen terms , i may be doing this same procedure using your great video to help me because my 2008 E250 4.6 just crapped out on me i think a headgasket or maybe valve related. Had somone check it out and was told no compression in cylinder one. (p.s. i just liked and subscribed)
I had a motor home with this engine come in and the Ford dealer told them they needed an engine, they brought it to me and I looked at it, found 1 bad intake valve. Did head job and was fixed up nice. Thanks for watching. I did compression test found 0 psi on one cylinder. performed leak down and was coming from intake. removed intake manifold and could see the problem
I have that exact van with what seems like the same symptoms. Can you provide an update? Thank you.
Don't worry brother, I'd finish up and have a nut & bolt leftover that went internally down deep in the motor😩😫 🤣
Awesome video Tone, you definitely know your stuff!!!👍👍
Jay 🕊🕊🕊
God Bless.
I've had to go in after someone did drop a bolt in one. It was a 5.4 though. Thanks for watching
This is extremely helpful. I think that's the engine in my 2008 Ford Econoline E250 V8 4.6 2 valve.
Should be the same, good luck. Thanks for watching
Motor still running strong, no issues with 296,000 miles on this.
Very nice
My 98 Ford F-150 4.6 2 valve is using some coolant. It has a miss (shake) that lasts about 30 seconds when the engine is cold then goes away. Could it be coolant in the cylinder creating a hydrolock? Question; if I have coolant in the sparkplug well than it's probably the intake gasket? But if I have coolant in the cylinder than it's the head gasket? Great video. Thanks 😊
Great explanations and video. Thanks for posting this.
Thank you, I am happy to help. I appreciate you watching.
Thanks for the video. Good detail and helpful tips.
@@RC-qf1et thank you very much
Thanks for the informative video. I have a 2007 Ford f-150 STX and i have a blown head gasket, i saw that you had the Fel Pro head gasket but would you recommend getting any other new gaskets?
Thank you and I appreciate you watching. Not sure what other new gaskets you are talking about. Message me on Instagram and I can help you out.
Also I hadn’t replaced PCV valve since getting vehicle at 100k. Replaced PCV when I did plugs. When I replaced PCV I shook old one and it didn’t rattle. Could not changing PCV cause oil to build up in wells on that side of engine and if so will oil eventually burn off. Thx in advance.
Bad PCV can cause high crank case pressure. Do you have any codes, rough running etc. Is it possible to message me on Instagram
@@NutsandBoltswithTone I changed intake manifold gaskets, fuel injector o-rings, plugs, coil boots, thermostat w/o-ring, clean throttle body, clean EGR and tube, new PCV valves. Code P0172 when all put back together now currently rides rough, had misfire codes P0300, P0303, P0304. Codes for cylinders cleared on its own. P0172 still illuminated. No smoke from tailpipe
Great video, thanks man. Where’d you find a new rubber cap for the aftermarket intake? I have one leaking out and searching the internet not seeing any.
It comes with the aftermarket intake manifolds. You can also find an assortment of rubber caps in a pack from OReilly's
The rubber cap fell off my truck couple months ago thankfully the truck had a safty feature (Ford's Fail Safe Cooling, i think that's the name) and the PCM cut and starved the engine off any fuel before it could do any damage to the head gasket. After i got a new intake under warranty, and install it in the truck, I was wondering if I should replace that clamp with a better clamp so the cap doesn't fall off again
Oh my god you got so lucky. Yes I would replace the clamp.
Thanks for your video it's helpfull
Awesome, so happy to help you out. Thanks for watching?
Awesome vid brother. I have 1995 mercury grand marquis 1st time doin a head gasket replacement by any chance u have the torque specs. For the head.
Thank you man I appreciate that. Funny thing about the torque specs is that I used Fel Pro head bolts and they come with an updated torque spec procedure. You need to replace head bolts when you do this job so if you are going to use Fel Pro head bolts just follow the procedure. If you are not going to let me know and hit me up on Instagram I will try to help you out. Thanks for watching.
To avoid the spring tension problem, I intend to install the timing before I install the rockers.
Good luck
After watching this I think I’m ready the only thing that had me worried was timing chain part but I’ll just rewatch this vid and I should be ok I’m already at the valve cover gasket looking at my cams already because my crown Vic 2011 had broken one of the spring on cylinder 1 I’m guessing my valves is bent because when I go to replace spring retainer and the rocker arm the rocker arm won’t adjust on it will get tight if I turn the cam lobes but after few spins the rocker arms just gets loose again it’s I hear the 4.6 motor are known for having there valve springs snap?
I have honestly not ever seen that, are you using air to hold valve closed? Hit me up on Instagram if you need any help. Thanks for watching.
Thanks I just bought a 97 F250 it's got a blown head gasket
Oh sweet, how many miles are on it? Thanks for watching.
185000 miles . It hasn't got a misfire, I guess i better do a compression test before i take the heads off. @@NutsandBoltswithTone
@rickchapman3707 probably ok, as long as it was not over heated too bad. I don't do head galleys over 150k but that's because we have a very long warranty.
What kind of sealer do you use on the bolts in the waterways? I think this is where I’m messing up my install.
I use liquid Teflon. Thanks for watching
@@NutsandBoltswithTone still can’t figure out which bolts need to be sealed lol. No good resources anywhere.
@chrismaye3256 it's the ones connected to the cooling system
When initially removing the cylinder heads to replace head gaskets, do I need to make sure timing marks are lined up TDC before removing timing chain and cylinder heads?? And then again when reassembling, the cam marks need to be as close as possible to the same spot it was in when removed (11ish passenger side and 12ish driver side) correct??
Thanks in advance
Great Job On The Detailed Video
You want the timing to be correct when disassembling so it is easier to put back together. Yes you need the cams to be as close as possible so you can get it in time.
Crazy question on the 4.6 2V - is it possible to have a blown head gasket and other than the coolant level going down that it still runs great. I installed a Dorman intake a couple of years ago. I have looked all over for coolant leaks and there are none that I can find. The engine oil is fine, no coolant in the oil. I've checked all hoses fittings heater core radiator water neck intake manifold, and its all dry. Is there anything I might have missed? The cooling system is losing about a quart every 20 miles. In two days I'll be able to check for gasses in the coolant. Other than the coolant level dropping, it runs fine.
If you have no external coolant leaks then it is most likely blown head gasket. You can get a tester to test for it. Here is a link to one
amzn.to/4dwu8fQ
I had 1 of these I thought had a head gasket issue that turned out to be just 1 gasket on the intake manifold. Water pump galley on the right front of intake manifold pumping water into #1 cylinder. When I cracked the drain plug on oil pan coolant poured out.
@@ericponta9771 I should have posted a follow up. This car had sat for at least a year with the heater core removed and the cooling system open. Apparently there was a large air bubble created when it was reassembled and it took a while to get it out. Shortly after my initial post it stopped needing coolant added - it has held its current full level for 4 months, checked every week.
Using my grandma's phone so I'm under a different name but I'm 21 and getting ready to change head gaskets for a 97 lincoln thanks for all this information I appreciate it, also is it necessary to disassemble the whole head to replace the head gasket 🤔
This is me lol^
You made me laugh, thanks for the reply. You do not need to remove camshaft to do the head gasket however if you are replacing head gaskets you should send heads to the machine shop to have them checked. When we send heads to machine shop they want them disassembled. Good luck and Thank you for watching. Message me on Instagram if you have any more questions.
How much do it cost to send heads to shop
@NutsandBoltswithTone we're driving panther body's with blown head gaskets because we're poor. 🤔🤫
Hey I was just wondering instead of taking the whole head apart and taking the cams out can’t I just use a cam holding tool and take the head out with the cams so I don’t have to retime the cams don’t won’t to really mess with moving the cams and putting them back in wrong and mess something up
@blakegrymonprez3764 but you still need to disassemble the head when u send it out to machine shop. Retiming cams is not difficult. U won't be able to hold can completely in place and remove the heads just mark chain to can sprockets and crank sprockets with oil based paint pen you'll be fine
One more question where can I get another crankshaft position sensor sprocket can’t seem to find any and mine has damaged teeth
And what if you don’t get your heads resurfaced?
@blakegrymonprez3764 you mean your just replacing your head gaskets and that's it? If so then I guess you don't have to. I have never removed cylinder heads and not sent them to machine shop.
How much does it usually cost to get them done at the machine shop
Hey Nuts & Bolts. Great video. You surely know your stuff. Question: Ford E150 w/250k I changed spark plugs at 225k and noticed cyl 2 had little oil on threads. Went back in at 250k and all plugs on bank 1 (cyl 1-4) now have oil in wells. Was told by 2 shops that with that type of high mileage probably needs new engine. Now vehicle burning rich. Thoughts? Keep,up the good work.
Hey bud thanks for reaching out and watching. This is a question that has a complex direction. Can you message me on my Instagram and I can help you. Send me all the vehicle info. Oil on soak plug threads does not necessarily mean it needs an engine. I look forward to hearing from you
@@NutsandBoltswithTone this may sound strange in today high tech world but I have never InstaGram anyone. How do I do that? Alt 60s senior citizen here. Thx
Will the 4.6 head fit the 5.4 from mustang to f150 xlt 5.4 cam and all 2 valve
I am not sure to be honest. I would call the dealer they should know.
I have a 2012 ford e250 the right side of cylinder head is leaking oil , but the head gasket is not blown ,can I replace the 1 gasket on the right side ?
Yes you can, you do not have to do both. Generally you do because the gaskets come with two and also because if you are already that far into it, if you only replace one and the other one fails you have to take a all a part again. Thank for watching. Message me on Instagram if you need anymore help.
Did you reuse the sprockets and hydraulic lifters?
Yes, I did, customer did not want to do those. They only wanted head gasket fixed. Thanks for watching.
Do you need to degree your cams ?
I ended up buying new heads for mine because one was ruined so the used heads I got had 50000mi on them and were machined but needed cams valves springs and all so I lapped did the leak down test and everything is good I’m just scared to put the heads on rn I know I can do the timing no problem but what if my cams are sitting wrong or something idk just don’t want to mess it up after all the money I’ve stuck in this truck along with two other broke down cars😂
before putting cams in put the sprocket on the cam lightly so you can see where the timing mark is, then you can reference the cam to proper location. Message me on Instagram
I am not sure what you mean by this. Message me on Instagram
HEY Tone my 4,6 has a aluminium inlet manifold what gaskets do I need to order for that ?
I believe you would need a one piece plastic gasket set but not sure, can you message me on Instagram and I can try to help you out. Thanks for watching.
how long did this take
I do not recall. maybe 15 hours, just a guess though.
Thanks Brotha!
You are welcome. I appreciate you watching
Is this the same way to do a 1998 ford f 150 4.6 engine
I believe that is the same, as long as it is a single cam which I am pretty sure it is. Message me on Instagram if you need any help or have any questions. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone no problem thank you for the help
Hello, I was hoping someone could verify something for me. I’m in the process of this repair I have the heads back from the machine shop I just want to make sure I put everything back together correctly. The question I have is; where exactly do I position my main crank shaft? Is that supposed to be at 11 o’clock or 12? Thanks.
@@Cody1ee message me on Instagram with vehicle info I'll try to help you out
What did you charge on this job
I am not sure what the cost of the job is.
So is that the same thing on 4.6 but on 98 ford f150 ?
@@mlkaos not completely sure but I would imagine pretty similar
Do you think you could share The torque specs, and the patterns is supposed to go on all the stuff like on the cam and head gasket please
@mlkaos i can't share that. However I have partnered with Emanualonline.com which has factory repair info, repair procedures and torque specs. Use code NUTS&BOLTSWITHTONE for a discount. Check it out
Do you always replace the oil pump in the video it looks new ?
I did not replace the oil pump in this vehicle. I generally do not replace it unless there is a concern. Thanks for watching.
First class.
Thank you.
I do agree that lubing all metal-to-metal components but WHY then start the engine with a little or a lot of cranking before it starts. WE ought to prime the oil system before allowing it to start, disable fuel pump, spark, or injection, and crank and crank with an additional battery jump until oil pressure is verified either on a dash gauge or manual pressure gauge or maybe an easily installed rocker cover is left off to watch for positive oil flow. Button everything up and allow the engine to start once positive oil flow has been established, please. Thank you for this time-lapse with torque values & part numbers & TIPS about the mistakes.
This is actually a good point, if this was engine that was completely rebuilt then yes priming the oil system would be necessary however I have found that if you are only disassembling let's say the cylinder heads or timing cover priming the oil system is not necessary. That is a great question. Thank you for watching and for the feedback I appreciate it.
feedback on the feedback LOL, the crank and con rods are down there next to the oil pump and they all have some soft bearings to take some damage, the cam journals are the last place for oil to be delivered, if it is delivered quickly, and no soft bearings of any type. I know you lubed things up but I believe in positive pressure especially when I can monitor it with a valve cover already off, love your work and much appreciate your skills, we all could use a little improvement from time to time. Here you are on a worldwide platform Mentoring young techs and all others who watch your channel, maybe your statement is the way you work daily but going above and beyond on video is best. Plain oil will push off to the side while assembly lube will stick there for a little while as a better choice if positive pressure will not be checked. No worries mate@@NutsandBoltswithTone
Is STP good enough to use in place of actual assembly lube?
@@ericponta9771 something is better than nothing, just follow my advice above to create positive pressure by cranking, cheers
@@DuaneDonaldson thanks for the reply!
What timing chain kit did you go with?
I'm pretty sure I didn't use a timing kit for this engine. It's a single cam engine. The dual cam engines you need a timing kit for. We have the whole master Ford timing kit. Thanks for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone What brand of chains and guides did you go with?
@StroppyBeast generally is up to the service advisors and what's available. I have seen a lot of videos of people using cloyes and then failing very early sometimes causing catastrophic engine damage. Safest bet is oem
Also could you send your info
Thanks for watching. Here is a link to my linktree. All my links are there.
linktr.ee/tonennorcal
The rubber caps are garbage mine split twice i ended up useing a piece of heater hose and a bolt
Oh yeah that hose with bolt is way better then that stupid rubber cap.
This is a cake walk compared to a duramax head gasket job
Any diesel head job is harder then this one for sure.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone agreed thanks for posting this! Great job
Yr 2000 on both
I really don’t want to do this . I have one spark plug that was fouled with moisture. 2003 grand marquis
It is a big job first sure. Thanks for watching
115° die grinder it'll change your life cleaning the front of the block to do a timing cover. Once you use that you will never use a 90° ever again
Thank you very much I appreciate that. I will look into it. Thanks for watching
Dorman no wonder their logo is a wallet with wings
Ha ha that is hilarious. Thanks for watching this
This guy is an amateur trying to teach amateur's discouraging people from doing something simple making them think its hard
@@appalachiansheds2898 sure bud that is exactly what I'm doing. It's a shame that you go around life with that mind set
@NutsandBoltswithTone the shame is you making something look hard that isn't so people that don't know any better think you are a master mechanic
@appalachiansheds2898 thanks
@@NutsandBoltswithTone Don't mind the trolls. This video helped me a lot.