Nice Job, been looking everywhere for a cheap replacement I don't have to have programed. If the dealerships weren't so greedy and made it affordable more of us would go there. So glad you removed dealers from another exuberant profit.
I had this exact same issue and i did exactly like you did in your video and it was a total success!! it was easier than i thought it'd be. thank you so much for posting your video.
It only works for short time before you have to do it again . I'v done that about 3 times and it gets annoying. Do you know if there a better quality alternative avaliable that you wont have to mess with it again ?
I followed your steps to success, but after re-installing the WIN won't go all the way back to "off" position. This makes it so key is locked in and has to be forced out. All other operations function as should. Any advice? Dash reads as truck as in park on digital readout but key won't fully go last bit of travel to "off" position.
Ok, nice video. My issue is similar to yours but not exactly. Intermittent cranking. My key is an actual key but has a chip in the top of it...anyways...when turned to start, the red security light comes on and therefore, no crank. I cycle the key off then back on and it cranks up. I've swapped the ignition and $760 later it's still doing the same thing. Scan tool said "low voltage from ECU/ECM''.
I'm new to dodge and I am hoping someone can maybe help me since the guys in my shop don't seem to want to help... is it possible for a bad WIN module to cause a crank no start? I noticed that with a grand caravan I am diagnosing that the vehicle will sometimes start but if you wiggle the key a little bit, it's like the whole vehicle loses power (dash lights go off) and the engine just shuts down. Sometimes it will crank but will not start. Other times when you turn the key nothing happens at all. I decided that the vehicle needed a new WIN module so I replaced it and the vehicle seems to be fine now but I am worried it may come back. Thank you
Going to reply here just in case someone else may be wondering. The WIN module did fix the issue with the vehicle stalling and losing all power, but did not fix the crank no start issue. In hindsight, this does make sense. Another technician said that I ought to try out bypassing the fuel pump relay which is hard-wired into the PDC (fuse panel under the hood). I did that, and the issue was completely fixed.
Nice Job, been looking everywhere for a cheap replacement I don't have to have programed. If the dealerships weren't so greedy and made it affordable more of us would go there. So glad you removed dealers from another exuberant profit.
I had this exact same issue and i did exactly like you did in your video and it was a total success!! it was easier than i thought it'd be. thank you so much for posting your video.
It only works for short time before you have to do it again . I'v done that about 3 times and it gets annoying. Do you know if there a better quality alternative avaliable that you wont have to mess with it again ?
Nice work. Many guys just replace instead of repair these days, a shame...
Why go the easy way?
I followed your steps to success, but after re-installing the WIN won't go all the way back to "off" position. This makes it so key is locked in and has to be forced out. All other operations function as should. Any advice? Dash reads as truck as in park on digital readout but key won't fully go last bit of travel to "off" position.
What was the tool used to breach the 5 solder points
A solder sucker, or vacuum.
My keys fall uit i have a reused, can i chance out the print from my win to the other?
I have a 2010 is it the same remedy
Ok, nice video. My issue is similar to yours but not exactly. Intermittent cranking. My key is an actual key but has a chip in the top of it...anyways...when turned to start, the red security light comes on and therefore, no crank. I cycle the key off then back on and it cranks up. I've swapped the ignition and $760 later it's still doing the same thing. Scan tool said "low voltage from ECU/ECM''.
Will this help units with push to start issues? Mine starts and dies after about 15 seconds. Key works fine. Thank You!
Good fix hope this works for mine Instrument cluster is blank and dark on mine. Will not start at all
Give it a shot, hope it works. Usually you would see some other indicator
I’m having the same issue with mine. Did that fix yours?
That was a cool repair
🙂
Thanks!
what spray did you use?
Electrical contact cleaner - this one is from Wurth.
Thanks my friend I'm doing this tomorrow
My switch don't control anything in the cab. No windows, radio,heater fan, or the dash will not show anything but mileage.
Did you ever figure out ur issue
@@mikeliberg2117 yes. A broken wire under the cab going to the computer.
I'm new to dodge and I am hoping someone can maybe help me since the guys in my shop don't seem to want to help... is it possible for a bad WIN module to cause a crank no start? I noticed that with a grand caravan I am diagnosing that the vehicle will sometimes start but if you wiggle the key a little bit, it's like the whole vehicle loses power (dash lights go off) and the engine just shuts down. Sometimes it will crank but will not start. Other times when you turn the key nothing happens at all. I decided that the vehicle needed a new WIN module so I replaced it and the vehicle seems to be fine now but I am worried it may come back. Thank you
Going to reply here just in case someone else may be wondering.
The WIN module did fix the issue with the vehicle stalling and losing all power, but did not fix the crank no start issue. In hindsight, this does make sense. Another technician said that I ought to try out bypassing the fuel pump relay which is hard-wired into the PDC (fuse panel under the hood). I did that, and the issue was completely fixed.
Very nice 👌
I done this fix but my key wont come out of ignition, any ideas?
Battery low, what you do?
great!!!