Resurfacing contacts: Use Lenline fiberglass brush is best...pencil eraser is safest...1000 grit sandpaper is adequate. Good idea to lube the contacts with floil-grease (conductive lubricant).
Local locksmith could have re programed as well as give you your PIN code for you. Also if I’m not mistaken when you get the new win module it comes with the pin0000 and you enter whatever you want and then that is now the new PIN code. That’s how I’ve done it atleast. But man google/TH-cam is also my best tool in my Arsenal!! Awesome video I come across a lot of these. Not this exact issue but once I see it in the field I’m sure I’ll dig into it
Sorta/kinda The Skim holds the pin code, the win holds the VIN and Key Code, and the Fobik gets "locked" with the key code. So you can buy a used/new WIN. Program the VIN into it, (with the PIN pulled from the SKIM), But be mindful that a New key (unlocked) will need to be used as the old ones will be (locked) from the previous use. (or if you're into soldering, like this guy, and you don't mind swapping on your trip to a board there is also that....
And if you need me to make a video showing you all of that nonsense of how I pull a pin code, and then show you how you can read the key to see if it's locked I tend to have too much free time on my hands and can accommodate anyone.
Yeah I have to use eeprom to pull PIN codes on older model mo par stuff but anything after like 04-06 it’s pretty simple to pull the PIN codes so long as your scan tool does it. If not then you gotta read via eeprom which is never fun diggin the pin out the bin files 👎 But if you happen to remeber which line of code off the top your head has the pin then please let me know. I have a video saved with the info but I do so few I have yet to memorize it.
No if you get a new win module you have to get a program for Chrysler like alphaobd you go into you cars computer and get the pin then you switch win modules then enter the pin into the new module and that's it
I followed your steps to success, but after re-installing the WIN won't go all the way back to "off" position. This makes it so key is locked in and has to be forced out. All other operations function as should. Any advice? Dash reads as truck as in park on digital readout but key won't fully go last bit of travel to "off" position.
Sorry I didn't see your comment right away. I'm not 100% sure, but if you added too much spring pressure to the contacts, that could prevent the last bit of movement that is needed to release the key fob.
@@MattVerley There's a solenoid inside that locks the key. And it's a problem of mine and other Dodge Caravan owners. Mine is 2008 Canada manufactured. Currently I use the battery disconnection for 5 seconds to remove the key, and looking for right solution.
Feels like me watching the video made, but forgot about... right up until it worked...... Maybe I have a tip, or maybe someone can help me?? for anyone thinking about this, .... cz, where I am at is that it looks like the desoldering is not actually necessary, bc I was able to bend mine up, but that may indicate my problem... So if you do it, there are 3 points along one edge, and 2 points in the middle together., well those middle 2, beside the CPU, it looks like they should NOT be desoldered, cz they are not attached on the other side. It looks like the contacts have copper wire wrapped around them and then sink into the tunnels, where they touch another copper wire.... At least that's what I have, then the other three being along the same edge, the pcb will just bend up. Is this corrrect, or do I have 2 broken wires on those contacts??? or did I break them when I opened it, and now I have 2 problems, lol... bc, the thing is, even if they are meant to be connected , desoldering them won't just release them from the board, it will break the connection with the copper wrap around, and that will have to be watched, and avoided, right? arrggghhh
Should have pop in new electrolytic capacitors. :) I just threw five new ones into my parking module on my 2008. Don't sweat the pin code. I have an Autel IM508 (if somebody asked me if I could pull the pin code for him I would do it for 25 bucks) ;)
Great job on the repair Matt .. Anything that saves you time and $$, And keeps you out of Drug villa Portland and in the woods is a huge win .. cost to repair was free .. NICE ! 👍👍..💯% FIXED
I program these everyday!!! Find a reliable locksmith that does automotive all the time. Aftermarket shops do these as well. In my area I go to customers shops, house, parking lots, etc and perform these repairs, replacements, key programming, PIN code retrieval all the time.
Do they have to be new to be programmed or can a used module be programmed? Also I have my own scan took but I'm unsure of the program process could we discuss that when you have time? I have a 2010 Dodge journey I refuse to take to the dealership to fix something I can do myself 😂
Hey just wanted to say a big thank you! I just followed your video (I have never soldered before) and it totally fixed my truck. Thanks for saving me $650!
Great Video Matt!! After watching your repair video I noticed that you are like myself in that we have a lot of keys on our ring. This is a major factor in this modules failure. Because of that added weight, it applies too much downward pressure to the cylinder and contacts of the module thus creating a wear issue. I repaired mine 2 years ago in the same fashion and now only have my house key and fab on one ring and I haven't had any issues since.
That is true in some cases even back when we had just normal car keys to start the car. Heavy key chain did in fact cause the tumbler to bend a little so that it eventually wouldn't start the car. On that note my truck is doing the same thing as this gentleman's truck and I have a push button start that isn't always starting the truck when the button is depressed. How do you explain that with no weight on the ignition.
Great video Matt. But your repair is only a band aid for the real problem. The reason the WIN modules have that issue is from having too many keys hanging off the fob. And as you drive down those bumpy roads, all that extra weight is bouncing and pulling on the fob, and it in turn causing premature wear on the ignition box. Not only does it bend the contacts in the back of the unit, but it will also wear the plastic case down to make everything loose inside. My solution for you is to remove most, if not all, of your keys from the fob. And then your repair will last 300,000 more miles. My advice comes from 25 years of being a locksmith.
I completely agree; in fact, I ordered a new WIN module that I will be swapping the PC board into. This will give me "fresh" mechanical parts inside of the plastic case. However...I'm not going to remove any keys from my keychain. Yes, they're probably increasing the wear rate in the WIN module, but I'm definitely a creature of habit and separating the keys from the FOB will inevitably lead to lost/missing/forgotten keys. I'll just have to put up with the occasional WIN module "refresh"
@@MattVerley thinking of going this route. The dealership quoted me 600 for the OEM win module. Are you just buying a cheapo since you will be swapping the OEM board? Which one are you buying?
I have zero keys hanging off my FOB And I still am starting to have this issue... less than 100,000 miles on a 2011 Ram 3500. I purchased the truck new from the dealer.
@CheyenneRain-bh6ht try removing the win and taking the black piece off and then just spray it down with electronic cleaner spray. It has helped mine out alot. Probably not going to last too long, but it's bought me some time. Good luck.
could the win module be responsible for a crank no start...no relatable trouble codes (just minor things like heated mirror etc)...i can hear the pump, and smell fuel from repeated attempts of starting, but it just won't catch...it'll sputter at times as though it wants to, but still doesn't quite get there...changed extremely worn plugs, crank & cam sensors, still no go...it was running until the last severe cold night...parked it one day, wouldn't start the next...just cranks
What part of Oregon are you in? I've spent my whole life out in eagle creek and estacada. Most of my weekends growing up had views like the one you have on that job.. Also, hope it's not too creepy but I noticed your disabled vet plates. Wanted to say thank you for your service, one vet to another.
I'm based close to Seaside, but I work all over Oregon and Washington. In the video, I was about 20 miles from Estacada...so almost in your backyard! And, thanks for the veteran "nod." I've been out for 20 years now, but I learned a lot during that part of my life.
I knew the view looked familiar. I need to find a job that pays me to spend my time out of cell service. Lol. I can't be sure because estacada area has a ton of trucks with big ass bumpers, but I think Ive actually seen your truck before. If you saw a brownish 4th gen, hopefully I wasnt driving like too much of an asshole I was medically discharged in 2017. Dont feel like I learned a whole lot but I had fun. Super happy I'm not in anymore with all these changes that are happening.
Hey my guy im a climber and a faller and this is what i lestned from an okd faller whos friend wouldve lived had that gate been unlocked. Just leave another key or your key hidden somewhere sp when the only person you call is a stranger they can open the gate and save somekne. My teacher said his falling partner wouldve lived had there been a key down there
Maybe some dielectric grease on the contacts to help prevent corrosion? Yaesu? Have one in our '11 Ram, mounted the radio under the dash, had a bracket made for the head unit to mount to the little tray on the top center of the dash. Do you do cross-band repeat? Would be great to carry an HT to cross-band via the truck to extend your comms range.
Yep; it's a Yaesu FT8800R that I've had for about 12 years. It works great...but I've never done any cross-ban repeating with it (even though that feature is built-in). I do have a TNC3 wired up to it for APRS reporting and email/text. It's a good backup when I'm way out in the woods outside of cell coverage.
Resurfacing contacts: Use Lenline fiberglass brush is best...pencil eraser is safest...1000 grit sandpaper is adequate. Good idea to lube the contacts with floil-grease (conductive lubricant).
Local locksmith could have re programed as well as give you your PIN code for you. Also if I’m not mistaken when you get the new win module it comes with the pin0000 and you enter whatever you want and then that is now the new PIN code. That’s how I’ve done it atleast. But man google/TH-cam is also my best tool in my Arsenal!! Awesome video I come across a lot of these. Not this exact issue but once I see it in the field I’m sure I’ll dig into it
Sorta/kinda
The Skim holds the pin code, the win holds the VIN and Key Code, and the Fobik gets "locked" with the key code.
So you can buy a used/new WIN. Program the VIN into it, (with the PIN pulled from the SKIM), But be mindful that a New key (unlocked) will need to be used as the old ones will be (locked) from the previous use.
(or if you're into soldering, like this guy, and you don't mind swapping on your trip to a board there is also that....
And if you need me to make a video showing you all of that nonsense of how I pull a pin code, and then show you how you can read the key to see if it's locked I tend to have too much free time on my hands and can accommodate anyone.
Yeah I have to use eeprom to pull PIN codes on older model mo par stuff but anything after like 04-06 it’s pretty simple to pull the PIN codes so long as your scan tool does it. If not then you gotta read via eeprom which is never fun diggin the pin out the bin files 👎 But if you happen to remeber which line of code off the top your head has the pin then please let me know. I have a video saved with the info but I do so few I have yet to memorize it.
No if you get a new win module you have to get a program for Chrysler like alphaobd you go into you cars computer and get the pin then you switch win modules then enter the pin into the new module and that's it
I followed your steps to success, but after re-installing the WIN won't go all the way back to "off" position. This makes it so key is locked in and has to be forced out. All other operations function as should. Any advice? Dash reads as truck as in park on digital readout but key won't fully go last bit of travel to "off" position.
Sorry I didn't see your comment right away. I'm not 100% sure, but if you added too much spring pressure to the contacts, that could prevent the last bit of movement that is needed to release the key fob.
@@MattVerley There's a solenoid inside that locks the key. And it's a problem of mine and other Dodge Caravan owners. Mine is 2008 Canada manufactured. Currently I use the battery disconnection for 5 seconds to remove the key, and looking for right solution.
Feels like me watching the video made, but forgot about... right up until it worked......
Maybe I have a tip, or maybe someone can help me?? for anyone thinking about this, .... cz, where I am at is that it looks like the desoldering is not actually necessary, bc I was able to bend mine up, but that may indicate my problem... So if you do it, there are 3 points along one edge, and 2 points in the middle together., well those middle 2, beside the CPU, it looks like they should NOT be desoldered, cz they are not attached on the other side. It looks like the contacts have copper wire wrapped around them and then sink into the tunnels, where they touch another copper wire.... At least that's what I have, then the other three being along the same edge, the pcb will just bend up.
Is this corrrect, or do I have 2 broken wires on those contacts??? or did I break them when I opened it, and now I have 2 problems, lol... bc, the thing is, even if they are meant to be connected , desoldering them won't just release them from the board, it will break the connection with the copper wrap around, and that will have to be watched, and avoided, right?
arrggghhh
Should have pop in new electrolytic capacitors. :) I just threw five new ones into my parking module on my 2008.
Don't sweat the pin code. I have an Autel IM508 (if somebody asked me if I could pull the pin code for him I would do it for 25 bucks) ;)
Great job on the repair Matt .. Anything that saves you time and $$, And keeps you out of Drug villa Portland and in the woods is a huge win .. cost to repair was free .. NICE ! 👍👍..💯% FIXED
I program these everyday!!!
Find a reliable locksmith that does automotive all the time. Aftermarket shops do these as well.
In my area I go to customers shops, house, parking lots, etc and perform these repairs, replacements, key programming, PIN code retrieval all the time.
Do they have to be new to be programmed or can a used module be programmed? Also I have my own scan took but I'm unsure of the program process could we discuss that when you have time? I have a 2010 Dodge journey I refuse to take to the dealership to fix something I can do myself 😂
Hey just wanted to say a big thank you! I just followed your video (I have never soldered before) and it totally fixed my truck. Thanks for saving me $650!
Thanks for the feedback, glad I could help!
Is that what you got quoted ?
Truck repair, a little Ham radio action. Sounds like a good day.
Great Video Matt!!
After watching your repair video I noticed that you are like myself in that we have a lot of keys on our ring. This is a major factor in this modules failure. Because of that added weight, it applies too much downward pressure to the cylinder and contacts of the module thus creating a wear issue. I repaired mine 2 years ago in the same fashion and now only have my house key and fab on one ring and I haven't had any issues since.
Lol sadly they fail anyways
That is true in some cases even back when we had just normal car keys to start the car. Heavy key chain did in fact cause the tumbler to bend a little so that it eventually wouldn't start the car. On that note my truck is doing the same thing as this gentleman's truck and I have a push button start that isn't always starting the truck when the button is depressed. How do you explain that with no weight on the ignition.
Great video! I have been plagued with “turn the key and click, no start”, on my 2017 1500. Might be 0 times or 20 times. Can’t wait to try this😎👍🏻
replace the starter
Nice job. I was pretty pissed that my 75,000 mile 2016 power wagon acted up.
Great video Matt. But your repair is only a band aid for the real problem. The reason the WIN modules have that issue is from having too many keys hanging off the fob. And as you drive down those bumpy roads, all that extra weight is bouncing and pulling on the fob, and it in turn causing premature wear on the ignition box. Not only does it bend the contacts in the back of the unit, but it will also wear the plastic case down to make everything loose inside. My solution for you is to remove most, if not all, of your keys from the fob. And then your repair will last 300,000 more miles. My advice comes from 25 years of being a locksmith.
I completely agree; in fact, I ordered a new WIN module that I will be swapping the PC board into. This will give me "fresh" mechanical parts inside of the plastic case. However...I'm not going to remove any keys from my keychain. Yes, they're probably increasing the wear rate in the WIN module, but I'm definitely a creature of habit and separating the keys from the FOB will inevitably lead to lost/missing/forgotten keys. I'll just have to put up with the occasional WIN module "refresh"
@@MattVerley thinking of going this route. The dealership quoted me 600 for the OEM win module. Are you just buying a cheapo since you will be swapping the OEM board? Which one are you buying?
I have zero keys hanging off my FOB And I still am starting to have this issue... less than 100,000 miles on a 2011 Ram 3500. I purchased the truck new from the dealer.
@xxlxpman ditto. Literally solo ignition key, and now I'm in a situation where I need my truck but I don't have $600 😞
@CheyenneRain-bh6ht try removing the win and taking the black piece off and then just spray it down with electronic cleaner spray. It has helped mine out alot. Probably not going to last too long, but it's bought me some time. Good luck.
could the win module be responsible for a crank no start...no relatable trouble codes (just minor things like heated mirror etc)...i can hear the pump, and smell fuel from repeated attempts of starting, but it just won't catch...it'll sputter at times as though it wants to, but still doesn't quite get there...changed extremely worn plugs, crank & cam sensors, still no go...it was running until the last severe cold night...parked it one day, wouldn't start the next...just cranks
What part of Oregon are you in? I've spent my whole life out in eagle creek and estacada. Most of my weekends growing up had views like the one you have on that job..
Also, hope it's not too creepy but I noticed your disabled vet plates. Wanted to say thank you for your service, one vet to another.
I'm based close to Seaside, but I work all over Oregon and Washington. In the video, I was about 20 miles from Estacada...so almost in your backyard! And, thanks for the veteran "nod." I've been out for 20 years now, but I learned a lot during that part of my life.
I knew the view looked familiar. I need to find a job that pays me to spend my time out of cell service. Lol. I can't be sure because estacada area has a ton of trucks with big ass bumpers, but I think Ive actually seen your truck before. If you saw a brownish 4th gen, hopefully I wasnt driving like too much of an asshole
I was medically discharged in 2017. Dont feel like I learned a whole lot but I had fun. Super happy I'm not in anymore with all these changes that are happening.
In my case I get nothing I put key in and nothing I can’t even unlock or lock truck with key
Battery is fine
Dont bend the springs you will have the key is in the ignition message problem.
Hey my guy im a climber and a faller and this is what i lestned from an okd faller whos friend wouldve lived had that gate been unlocked. Just leave another key or your key hidden somewhere sp when the only person you call is a stranger they can open the gate and save somekne. My teacher said his falling partner wouldve lived had there been a key down there
Thanks for making this. I have the same truck, same issue. Took it apart last night after this and reinstalled it. Seems to be working now.
Great video … now to attempt on my 2014 power wagon.
Would this work on a push button start?
Gracias, buen video.
The fix worked for me on a 2014 caravan but now both my keys dont wireless unlock or remote start. Anyone else have this prob?
Having this issue right now, did you find a fix ?
If you didn't solder antenna good, it'll do that. Try pushing remote buttons right next to win module and see if it works.
Mines won’t turn at all on my 2010 dodge caravan you think I can repair this the same way
What was wrong with it
Great tip thanks
No contact grease?
Man thank you!!!!!!!!
Maybe some dielectric grease on the contacts to help prevent corrosion? Yaesu? Have one in our '11 Ram, mounted the radio under the dash, had a bracket made for the head unit to mount to the little tray on the top center of the dash. Do you do cross-band repeat? Would be great to carry an HT to cross-band via the truck to extend your comms range.
Yep; it's a Yaesu FT8800R that I've had for about 12 years. It works great...but I've never done any cross-ban repeating with it (even though that feature is built-in). I do have a TNC3 wired up to it for APRS reporting and email/text. It's a good backup when I'm way out in the woods outside of cell coverage.
Dielectric grease is an insulator, not good for the flow of electricity.
Ur a great teacher