Really glad i stumbled upon this video. I made a custom driveshaft for my R1 powered mini cooper and long story short im using an e46 shaft that i cut and modified to fit the output shaft of the r1 motor. Just last week i noticed my drive shaft vibrating alot and i took it out and brought it to a specialist which claimed the Ujoints would not come out because of those factory cap edges and made it nearly impossible to remove without machining. I called shannagans on that and u proved my point!!! Good shit!
@Gear Spec Thank you for this video! Here is my story and one question :) My car is BMW E46 325Xi. A year ago I changed both u joints on the front driveshaft (it has two u joints, different from the driveshaft on the video). The u joints which I used are GKN U167. So a year later, no problem at all. Then several weeks ago I changed one of the u joints on the rear driveshaft - it has two of them again and I changed the one next to the differential. It had some play and binding, while the other one has no and I didn't change that one. Again I used the same GKN U167. Everything went well but after that I got a vibration at high speed - at 110km/h and above. Before I removed the old u joint, I measured the depth of the cups. Then I tried to put the cups of the new u joint at the same depth. However I accidentally pushed one of the cups a little bit deeper and then to compensate for that I pushed the other cup on the same axis a little bit deeper too. @Gear Spec has written that when there is a little play between the u joint and the cups it serves so the u joint automatically centers itself when spinning. I wonder whether I lost this autocentering capability and this causes the vibration now. Any thoughts on this? I'm wondering if I remove the driveshaft again and try to bush both caps a little bit out - will it solve my vibration?
Sorry for the late reply! Regarding the auto centring, that depends on how tight the caps are and if you have tapped the edges so the cap would not come flying out of the housing. My advice is, keep messing with it because that’s where the vibration is coming from, unles you had weight falling off the driveshaft when replacing the ujoint.
I replaced the guibo and the center support bearing like 3 months ago, now I'm getting vibration similar to before I changed csb, I knew I should've done ujoint when I pulled it out, now I gotta go through everything again.
@@clai-videos-and-reviews YUP, and I had to have them weld a new bolt down there, I ripped it right from the frame, not fun. But all new everything in there, I'm hauling ass again
Typical BMW, like the transmission fluid with lifetime fluid, BULLSHIT, thank you for sharing man, you are saving us thousands of dollars with your video 😊
I am sorry I didn’t record that part and the late reply. You just use a 13mm long socket to push in one of the cups so the opposite side comes out. Same thing for the other side and once you have 2 cups of then you can get the ujoint out and take the other 2 cups out as well.
Hope this method will be the same for my e39 530d manual. That clunking noise is terrible.. Any update? It works properly after ~4years ? BTW Thanks for the upload, I think this is the ONLY usable content about BMW u-joint replacement. Of course you have a new subsciber.
alan cruz Hey, I know because I had the same experience, but it can be done no problem. I was worried about the part that would fit perfectly and I found it so just go by the part number 2201670 or here is the link if you want to order it rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F221742901174 Regarding the installation, If you don’t feel comfortable doing it yourself then don’t do it, but if you are handyman that’s a very easy replacement. Just follow the instructions on my video and you will be fine 😊 Good luck 👍
Sorry for the late reply, but I don’t think I would have been much help to you. It’s hard to tell because at that time there was no dedicated replacement part for that problem.
Hi! Thanks for sharing this. Great job. Hope this u-joint is compatible with my 1995 318ti too. It needs the same treatment. Good luck for future jobs.
@@GearSpec Thanks for the response. Does 2201670 fit for 318ti. I found that Meyle 26117518304 is available @FCP Euro too. Dou you have any idea about it?
@@Wishnuful Unfortunately I don’t know but I would definitely give it a try, if not try another one. It will still be way cheaper than replacing the whole shaft 😊
@@GearSpec yes of course. Ill definitely try it asap. I found it at Amazon from GMB. (220-1670) I hope this would be compatible with 318ti too. Thanks again.
Correct me if I'm wrong but this will only work if the driveshaft is aftermarket. BMW uses a special type of U-joint in the factory OEM shafts that is not sold separate nor does any other manufacturer produce it. Only way to fixed driveline vibration and or noise from a u-joint related cause is buying a new shaft. Reccomend looking into the CSB and guibo before making a decision.
Jake H Actually the ujoints are serviceable and replaceable on the aftermarket driveshaft, but mine is the original one and it is doable. A lot of people don’t think it’s doable and that’s why I made the video. You just need to make sure you get the correct ujoint, the rest is easy 😊
@@GearSpec Really mhm okay okay! I have yet to look at mine closely honestly. However it seems that everything I've found in my research besides your video has formed my belief... only one thing to do now get the car on the hoist and find out for myself
What's The Wombat here you have the link for it, there is more on eBay if you don’t like this one. Good luck 👍 rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182675078957
I have a 2008 323i manual rear wheel drive and I’m having the same issue. I can’t find a used drive shaft anywhere!! Would the same Ujoint mentioned fit mine as well or would anyone know what will? I’m in Canada.
Hi there, I'm in a sudden dire situation where I am about to travel across the country in my 2001 325xi manual gearbox, and after getting new rear coil springs (Suplex) installed today, the mechanic informed me that my rear u-joint needs replacing. I watched your very helpful video, but I have to wonder will this part 2201670 fit an X-drive, manual gearbox, year 2001? I am doing my due diligence researching to find out if this part is the one to order. Still having doubts, I ask would you let me know your thoughts, please? I'm about to head out on a "mission from God" coming up soon, and really need help/insight. ;-)
Diana Hamilton Hi and thank you for the comment. I am 90% sure that it’s the same part number. I know there is not much information about this out there but some extra digging would probably give you that piece of mind 😊 I wish you all the best 👍
@@dironizareyes596 hey! I never had the work done as time ran out on me but the car has always pulled strong, been a vibrant runner, so I just trusted in it and it's been fine, perfect almost, to this day!
@@truthco-opdiana2307 awesome well the isrealites didn't need new shoes while in the desert for 40 years because God provided and didn't let them get worn out or destroyed. I know God protects the things we need most. God bless
Good job taking that on! I need to do this on my E83. BTW I encourage the use of that vise to press out the old joint as well. All that hammering can do bad things. I've seen weld-on balancing weights fall off from all the shock waves. Then you end up with a whole new problem. Save the hammer for nails
Bryan Derksen to be honest I never thought of the balancing weight. Thank you for sharing that information. Now that I’m thinking would have been best if I used a C clamp type press and would have made my life way easier as well. Cheers 👍
@@kennyweaver9796 Yes and no. The new U-joint is fine but when I took the driveshaft off it slipped apart at the splines joint before I got a chance to mark the alignment between the front and rear halves. Of course a person can guess all they want about how the halves used to be oriented....yada yada I now have driveline vibration at 90kmh. Fail
Mario Alvizuris Hey here is the link for very similar part I used rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F361270785807 Regarding if it fits the E90, I would assume yes but do some research to make sure that it actually is the same part.
@@GearSpec the one you used in your video, thats an OEM right? not the original from bmw? what specs of that joint do you recommend on me? that can be buy here in our country philippines.
It seems to be a front driveshaft. Do you know if this method applies to rear U-joint in an E46 325i rear driveshaft? Could be the same reference (220-1670)? Great video and thanks in advance for your answer.
GAOR Ingeniería All the U Joint are located between the front and rear drive shaft. There is no U Joint after the rear drive shaft. That part number applies to all BMW E46 model, including yours 😊
@@GearSpec there is a rear ujoint, mine has this problem, that's why im looking for videos on youtube. But i think your video could help me anyway, thanks a lot
So you balance the U joint by hand? I read that this U joint needs to be balanced by a special machine to a precision of 5000 of an inch. Did you get vibrations after this job?
raulassis1 that’s the most interesting part, I didn’t get any vibration at all even at 200km/h. I don’t know about that expensive balance you have heard, I just used the old marks for how deep the cups get pushed in and it was perfect 👍
@@GearSpec Try searching for "driveshaft balancer" to get an idea of what kind of machine I have in mind. You may not get vibrations now maybe because they get damped by the chassi but I think you'll get premature wear and vibrations earlier than normal. I have a similar issue in my E39 with a ratling noise on low RPM. Now I'm lookin to replace the driveshaft with a non OEM or to rebuild my current one. If nothing works I probably get a new one from the dealer.
raulassis1 I understand you are worried about it, so was I when this occurred. But there is nothing to worry about because between the ujoint and the cup is a little bit of play which serves as autocorrect/autobalancer when shaft rotates at high speed. If after you are done you get vibrations that’s what you should consider redoing. If no vibration at over 100km/h you are good to go. High speed will for sure give you vibration if not done right. Anyway it’s your decision
U-joints don’t need to be balanced. The shaft is balanced when it was made. If you are just replacing a u-joint the shaft doesn’t require re-balancing.
We've been doing the same thing a lot of times over and over in my auto shop. U joints doesn't need balancer or whatever it is. All you have to do is to mark everything before detachment. It'll just cost you a lot of money on balancer. Shops and bmw shops are just making money out of it.
Are you sure it will not vibrate? I have a BMW E90 and I get vibrations after 120+km/h and I think it's my drive shaft, the drive shaft is balanced you know that???
The driveshaft itself is balanced very accurately. If you put the new ujoint exactly where the old one was u should not experience any vibration. But I can’t assure you that the part number is the same for E90, because like the old one the new ujoint has to be snug and installed properly.
Quincy yes that’s how they are, it’s called staked ujoints, but make sure after you install the new one create some edges so it holds the cup and prevents it from falling out. Thank you for your comment! 😊
![[Eng Sub] BMW E46 Flex disc (guibo) and drive shaft center support bearing replacement DIY](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cUH9_4Zm9Xg/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Eng Sub] BMW E46 Flex disc (guibo) and drive shaft center support bearing replacement DIY](/img/tr.png)
I just did this on my 2001 e46. Have to thank you for the part number
Really glad i stumbled upon this video. I made a custom driveshaft for my R1 powered mini cooper and long story short im using an e46 shaft that i cut and modified to fit the output shaft of the r1 motor. Just last week i noticed my drive shaft vibrating alot and i took it out and brought it to a specialist which claimed the Ujoints would not come out because of those factory cap edges and made it nearly impossible to remove without machining. I called shannagans on that and u proved my point!!! Good shit!
Good Stuff!
That’s awesome 😊
@Gear Spec Thank you for this video! Here is my story and one question :) My car is BMW E46 325Xi. A year ago I changed both u joints on the front driveshaft (it has two u joints, different from the driveshaft on the video). The u joints which I used are GKN U167. So a year later, no problem at all. Then several weeks ago I changed one of the u joints on the rear driveshaft - it has two of them again and I changed the one next to the differential. It had some play and binding, while the other one has no and I didn't change that one. Again I used the same GKN U167. Everything went well but after that I got a vibration at high speed - at 110km/h and above. Before I removed the old u joint, I measured the depth of the cups. Then I tried to put the cups of the new u joint at the same depth. However I accidentally pushed one of the cups a little bit deeper and then to compensate for that I pushed the other cup on the same axis a little bit deeper too. @Gear Spec has written that when there is a little play between the u joint and the cups it serves so the u joint automatically centers itself when spinning. I wonder whether I lost this autocentering capability and this causes the vibration now. Any thoughts on this? I'm wondering if I remove the driveshaft again and try to bush both caps a little bit out - will it solve my vibration?
Sorry for the late reply!
Regarding the auto centring, that depends on how tight the caps are and if you have tapped the edges so the cap would not come flying out of the housing. My advice is, keep messing with it because that’s where the vibration is coming from, unles you had weight falling off the driveshaft when replacing the ujoint.
Проблема ти е в лагера на предният кардан на раздатката ;)
I replaced the guibo and the center support bearing like 3 months ago, now I'm getting vibration similar to before I changed csb, I knew I should've done ujoint when I pulled it out, now I gotta go through everything again.
U joint for sure just did the same on my z3
@@clai-videos-and-reviews YUP, and I had to have them weld a new bolt down there, I ripped it right from the frame, not fun. But all new everything in there, I'm hauling ass again
Typical BMW, like the transmission fluid with lifetime fluid, BULLSHIT, thank you for sharing man, you are saving us thousands of dollars with your video 😊
Nammik Namo I know right, but we got this 😊 thank you for your kind words man 😊
With lifetime BMW means 100K kilometers not the lifetime of a human.
where did you order it from?
Where did you get the u joint in the video?
Hello .can you tell me what is the dimensions of the part? maybe 24x64 mm?
Hi what size are the bolts that go through the doughnut
Trying to see how you we able to get the cup loose to take out the ujoint
I am sorry I didn’t record that part and the late reply. You just use a 13mm long socket to push in one of the cups so the opposite side comes out. Same thing for the other side and once you have 2 cups of then you can get the ujoint out and take the other 2 cups out as well.
Hope this method will be the same for my e39 530d manual. That clunking noise is terrible..
Any update? It works properly after ~4years ?
BTW Thanks for the upload, I think this is the ONLY usable content about BMW u-joint replacement. Of course you have a new subsciber.
Hey man I have that issue on my bmw 325i. But everywhere I go they say there’s no such thing as a u joint for a 2005 325i idk what to do
alan cruz Hey, I know because I had the same experience, but it can be done no problem. I was worried about the part that would fit perfectly and I found it so just go by the part number 2201670 or here is the link if you want to order it rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F221742901174
Regarding the installation, If you don’t feel comfortable doing it yourself then don’t do it, but if you are handyman that’s a very easy replacement. Just follow the instructions on my video and you will be fine 😊 Good luck 👍
For my E90 328i 2007, U-Joint was MOOG 413. SKF also make one UJ413. Still a bit of commitment to change, but I prefer 40$ instead of 900$
so basically you didn't need to remove any lock before just hitting the uj with a 13 socket until it came out on the otherside?
so you did not need to rebalance the shaft after replacing the u joint ?
Thanks for sharing man, this video saved me almost 1000 bucks, subscribed of course 👍
BMW E90 I’m glad it was helpful bro 😊
Hello I'm glad to find this video. I would like to know how does it do till now?
I sold the car after 3 years but I never had any issues until then.
The e30 use same style pro shaft flange, so I can also use this method to replace my e30 clunk rear u joint!
Thanks, does the ujoint 220 1670 fits on my e46 coupe 318ci from 2000 driveshaft?? Thanks a lot
Sorry for the late reply, but I don’t think I would have been much help to you. It’s hard to tell because at that time there was no dedicated replacement part for that problem.
Hi! Thanks for sharing this. Great job. Hope this u-joint is compatible with my 1995 318ti too. It needs the same treatment. Good luck for future jobs.
Thank you and good luck as well, hopefully it works out 😊
@@GearSpec Thanks for the response. Does 2201670 fit for 318ti. I found that Meyle 26117518304 is available @FCP Euro too. Dou you have any idea about it?
@@Wishnuful Unfortunately I don’t know but I would definitely give it a try, if not try another one. It will still be way cheaper than replacing the whole shaft 😊
@@GearSpec yes of course. Ill definitely try it asap. I found it at Amazon from GMB. (220-1670) I hope this would be compatible with 318ti too. Thanks again.
@@Wishnufuland is it compatible?
One question please. I have 2003 320cd. The U joint is the same? Thank you
cargrdo I’m pretty sure it’s the same part number, but do some more research just to be on the safe side 😊
@@GearSpec Thank You
No problem, hope this fits your car 😊
are the u joint the same for front an rear driveshafts ? for exemple, on a 330xi front driveshaft.
thank you
Maxime Routhier I am not sure but I believe it should be. If you are going to try it let me know how it is going to go?
Hey friend do you have dimensions of ujoints for bmw e90 :) ?
Correct me if I'm wrong but this will only work if the driveshaft is aftermarket. BMW uses a special type of U-joint in the factory OEM shafts that is not sold separate nor does any other manufacturer produce it. Only way to fixed driveline vibration and or noise from a u-joint related cause is buying a new shaft. Reccomend looking into the CSB and guibo before making a decision.
Jake H Actually the ujoints are serviceable and replaceable on the aftermarket driveshaft, but mine is the original one and it is doable. A lot of people don’t think it’s doable and that’s why I made the video. You just need to make sure you get the correct ujoint, the rest is easy 😊
@@GearSpec Really mhm okay okay! I have yet to look at mine closely honestly. However it seems that everything I've found in my research besides your video has formed my belief... only one thing to do now get the car on the hoist and find out for myself
The best thing you can do is get the measurements of your ujoint so you know what ujoint you need and don’t need to do the same job twice. Good luck 😊
@@GearSpec is this part number for both drive shaft in xi e46 . front and back?
Where you find the u joint ?
Can I do this on a 1997 328is e36? I cannot find the right u joints
What's The Wombat here you have the link for it, there is more on eBay if you don’t like this one. Good luck 👍
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182675078957
@@GearSpec thanks I'll check it out
@@GearSpec also hows that new one holding up? Since its made out of weaker material
Pretty good, No issues at all 👍
I have a 2008 323i manual rear wheel drive and I’m having the same issue. I can’t find a used drive shaft anywhere!! Would the same Ujoint mentioned fit mine as well or would anyone know what will?
I’m in Canada.
F Stabs Down I would say it does fit but to be safe I would take the old one out and measure it so you know the parameters of the new one you need.
Hi there, I'm in a sudden dire situation where I am about to travel across the country in my 2001 325xi manual gearbox, and after getting new rear coil springs (Suplex) installed today, the mechanic informed me that my rear u-joint needs replacing. I watched your very helpful video, but I have to wonder will this part 2201670 fit an X-drive, manual gearbox, year 2001? I am doing my due diligence researching to find out if this part is the one to order. Still having doubts, I ask would you let me know your thoughts, please? I'm about to head out on a "mission from God" coming up soon, and really need help/insight. ;-)
Diana Hamilton Hi and thank you for the comment. I am 90% sure that it’s the same part number. I know there is not much information about this out there but some extra digging would probably give you that piece of mind 😊 I wish you all the best 👍
@@GearSpec Thank you very much for your reply. Much appreciated, and all the best to you, as well. :-)
So was it the same part number? Did it work out?
@@dironizareyes596 hey! I never had the work done as time ran out on me but the car has always pulled strong, been a vibrant runner, so I just trusted in it and it's been fine, perfect almost, to this day!
@@truthco-opdiana2307 awesome well the isrealites didn't need new shoes while in the desert for 40 years because God provided and didn't let them get worn out or destroyed. I know God protects the things we need most. God bless
My needle bearings keep moving everytime i pop the joint in they slide out of place its madening!
Henry Lj did you try and put some more grease in it so they can stick, because it should stay in place
@@GearSpec ill give it a shot a yo
I didn’t struggle with needle bearings at all, so it should work 👍
Good job taking that on! I need to do this on my E83. BTW I encourage the use of that vise to press out the old joint as well. All that hammering can do bad things. I've seen weld-on balancing weights fall off from all the shock waves. Then you end up with a whole new problem. Save the hammer for nails
Bryan Derksen to be honest I never thought of the balancing weight. Thank you for sharing that information. Now that I’m thinking would have been best if I used a C clamp type press and would have made my life way easier as well. Cheers 👍
Did replacing the u joint on your x83 work?
@@kennyweaver9796 Yes and no. The new U-joint is fine but when I took the driveshaft off it slipped apart at the splines joint before I got a chance to mark the alignment between the front and rear halves. Of course a person can guess all they want about how the halves used to be oriented....yada yada I now have driveline vibration at 90kmh. Fail
Great video, I'm having a similar issue but it's the 1st u joint not the second one. Would you happen to know do they share the same part number?
Mine is a 2pc drive shaft.
i cant find a u joint that fits my 2000 323i bmw, can you help?
Ian Scott I am pretty sure that this ujoint I bought is the same for your model as well, so just use the same part number and you should be fine.
@@GearSpec can you share a link where you purchased it and does it fit a BMW e90?
Mario Alvizuris Hey here is the link for very similar part I used rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F361270785807
Regarding if it fits the E90, I would assume yes but do some research to make sure that it actually is the same part.
Will this work on a 99 328i?
Sorry for the late reply. I believe it should, but not sure about the part number.
how about E36 316i? can it be replaced too?
I’m pretty sure it can be replaced
@@GearSpec do you have part number for the cross joint? either original or OEM
@@miguelbogelgel2883 you mean other than the one on the video?
@@GearSpec the one you used in your video, thats an OEM right? not the original from bmw? what specs of that joint do you recommend on me? that can be buy here in our country philippines.
We're did you get the u joints from ?
I found it on eBay
It seems to be a front driveshaft. Do you know if this method applies to rear U-joint in an E46 325i rear driveshaft? Could be the same reference (220-1670)? Great video and thanks in advance for your answer.
GAOR Ingeniería All the U Joint are located between the front and rear drive shaft. There is no U Joint after the rear drive shaft. That part number applies to all BMW E46 model, including yours 😊
Thanks again my friend. Already suscribed!!! :D
You are welcome, hope the video helped you! Thanks for subscribing! 😊
@@GearSpec there is a rear ujoint, mine has this problem, that's why im looking for videos on youtube. But i think your video could help me anyway, thanks a lot
Axige thank you for your kind comment and glad to hear that it was helpful 👍
This one is fiting on E60?🤔
Sorry for the late reply but I don’t think I would have been much help to you, don’t know. Hope it worked for you!
How did you get the u-joint off?
sweetfender6 if you look at 03:15 you will see I’m using a 13mm deep socket and a hammer
Is there no C clip?
What keeps it from falling out?
Good job man,thanks a lot
Thank you 😊
So you balance the U joint by hand? I read that this U joint needs to be balanced by a special machine to a precision of 5000 of an inch. Did you get vibrations after this job?
raulassis1 that’s the most interesting part, I didn’t get any vibration at all even at 200km/h. I don’t know about that expensive balance you have heard, I just used the old marks for how deep the cups get pushed in and it was perfect 👍
@@GearSpec Try searching for "driveshaft balancer" to get an idea of what kind of machine I have in mind. You may not get vibrations now maybe because they get damped by the chassi but I think you'll get premature wear and vibrations earlier than normal. I have a similar issue in my E39 with a ratling noise on low RPM. Now I'm lookin to replace the driveshaft with a non OEM or to rebuild my current one. If nothing works I probably get a new one from the dealer.
raulassis1 I understand you are worried about it, so was I when this occurred. But there is nothing to worry about because between the ujoint and the cup is a little bit of play which serves as autocorrect/autobalancer when shaft rotates at high speed. If after you are done you get vibrations that’s what you should consider redoing. If no vibration at over 100km/h you are good to go. High speed will for sure give you vibration if not done right. Anyway it’s your decision
U-joints don’t need to be balanced. The shaft is balanced when it was made. If you are just replacing a u-joint the shaft doesn’t require re-balancing.
We've been doing the same thing a lot of times over and over in my auto shop. U joints doesn't need balancer or whatever it is. All you have to do is to mark everything before detachment. It'll just cost you a lot of money on balancer. Shops and bmw shops are just making money out of it.
will this work in a e46 330?
Yes it will
thanks man
You are welcome 👍
@@GearSpec it worked for me 330i I tack welded it and for pace of mind I got it balanced, thanks alot Budd
Javier Hernandez that’s awesome, glad to have helped 😊
is this possible for e30 sedans?
bimmer bruh I would say so, but please do some more research regarding the size and you will be sure to decide
Excellent..i am going to fellow your video
It really actualy works?
Yes it did and it does 😊
The bearing caps are not held in pace with snap rings . Good luck
That’s why I created some edges with the punch so it doesn’t come flying while driving
Case hardened cups . This is repairable at a shaft shop
I’m pretty sure of that, just tried to see if I would be able to do it myself and it turned out to be doable without special tools
Are you sure it will not vibrate? I have a BMW E90 and I get vibrations after 120+km/h and I think it's my drive shaft, the drive shaft is balanced you know that???
The driveshaft itself is balanced very accurately. If you put the new ujoint exactly where the old one was u should not experience any vibration. But I can’t assure you that the part number is the same for E90, because like the old one the new ujoint has to be snug and installed properly.
@@GearSpec Hmm ok i will try to find for e90, so now I get vibrations from this u joint?
Mebby BB hey did you try it? Let us know if you did and what the result was! 😊
@@GearSpec I didn't
@@Mebbyx hay friend do you have ujoints dimensions?
Have you had any problems so far doing it this way?
Roberto Ballardo No, not at all 👍
Is it ok that there are no lock clips? Does it hold firmly? Btw man nice work. Im rooting on doin this. Thanks!
Quincy yes that’s how they are, it’s called staked ujoints, but make sure after you install the new one create some edges so it holds the cup and prevents it from falling out. Thank you for your comment! 😊
@@GearSpec thanks for the tip. one more question. The ujoin/crossjoint you use, does it fit also on e36 316i '97?
That I don’t know but I would say so. To make sure you get the right part, take the old one out and measure it so you know the size you need
You laid down a needle bearing
You noticed that, unfortunately I saw that when I took it apart for the second time 😂
lovely👀
Pat Castro thank you 😊
👍👍👍
NEVER!!! pound on the universal joint holder!! It will throw it off balance.
Tom Champman I didn’t know that, thank you! 😊
😇💜Ace
Giovanni Renó thanks ☺️