NylonX can be finicky. I called MatterHackers about it and was able to solve the issue with the right build surface. Per there recommendation, I now use Garolite and glue stick for NylonX and have not had a problem sense. I use the Raise3D Pro 2 which is an enclosed printer. Before printing with NylonX I usually pre-heat the chamber with the bed for about 20 minutes before starting the print. Once started let it go. I've found that opening the chamber is enough to start causing problems mainly warping. Hope that helps someone out there.
@@mattmakenfix9411 Yeah, the struggle with the nylons is that they always have trouble sticking, as the comment above suggested, garolite almost works too well. I think the only time I might use the nylon versions is for gears since the nylon part is self lubricating
@@mattmakenfix9411 also, if you do ever need to use the nylons and are getting the garolite sheets you need a fairly thick sheet so it can resist the pulling forces from the nylon wanting to warp 😉
I recently read for nylons, the best way to avoid warp is to leave it in an enclosure and let it cool slowly and completely. It was explained as similar to how metal warps when going from hot to cold unevenly. I haven't printed with nylon yet so I can't verify this. GL.
With NylonX, the warping begins pretty much immediately and the tension just increases as the print progresses. If you have a flexible magnetic bed and attempt a big enough print, it will actually start to overpower the magnets and begin curling the entire bed inwards on itself. This stuff is incredibly difficult to print without a raft and even under ideal conditions while using a raft it can still be problematic.
Reminds me of a doc I watched a week or two back, where the first company 3D printing rockets realized that the only way to deal with warpage was to model it into the slicer, so they print crooked and let it warp itself straight.
@@mattmakenfix9411 Try a much cooler bed with glue stick. Many people seem to have good results with 70-80c first layer temp and then 35c for the rest of the print. The higher bed temp seems to induce warping if it cannot completely hold the entire print down.
@@blackwater7183 Yes. The one I bought was PA6+CF Gen 3. But also consider the ASA+CF which is stiffer and less expensive making it my most used and favorite carbon fiber reinforced material.
My own experience using PC Blend CF somewhat mirrors your own. Seems to me it prints even easier than PLA or PETG, and the results come out near perfect. But I plan to test it now using the clearance castle test print, so see how it does on the fine details and clearances.
Polymakers nylon is pretty good imo. Prints like pla, and doesnt warp thanks to their warp free tech and fiber adhesion stuff. I tried some warp tests and the cf nylon parts didnt warp at all. They were perfectly flat. Its also relatively affordable so I would reccomend that. Been printing it on my prusa since march.
If you are having issues with no flat bottom surfaces please take a look into the concept of preloaded asymmetrical stress and strain from the act of printing certain shapes. Most of the time this phenomenon is not from printing but printing with a particular set of settings coupled with a particular geometry.
i actually think the have the same content, its just PC is transparent or more matte than the PA12 in Nylon X. Think theyre both 20% carbon fiber. I use PolyMide PA6-CF and notice its pretty graphite in color.
Taulman Nylon 230 is pretty good for low to no warpage. I get very consistent results printed in an enclosure. Printed a lot of gears with great results.
Can you comment on the layer adhesion of the PC-CF? From what I hear layer adhesion in 3d printed PC is already not great, and that CF-fill just makes the layer adhesion of any filament worse. That is the only reason its not used for 100% of my high impact functional prints at this point (and the fact that its always out of stock lol)...
With the prusament PC and PCCF, they do recommend not to do it on the smooth sheet because adhesion is too high, so it's probably good you used glue stick since it would have acted as a release agent
@@mattmakenfix9411 I made the mistake of using the smooth sheet on a part I made with the Prusa PC Carbon filament and it DESTROYED my smooth sheet. Completely ripped the top coating off with the part. Textured sheet ftw!
@@spermwater "The principal health hazards of carbon fibre handling are due to mechanical irritation and abrasion similar to that of glass fibres. Carbon fibres are easily broken by stretching (by less than 2% elongation); the fibres can easily become a fine dust during cutting, machining or mechanical finishing and can then be released into the surrounding atmosphere. These micro fibres if uncontrolled have a potential to stick into human skin or the mucous membranes causing irritation." www.monash.edu/ohs/info-docs/safety-topics/chemical-management/carbon-fibre-composites-ohs-information-sheet
It just hasn't been working for me regardless of what I do. I do have some CFNylon from Prusa now along with their new buildplate for nylon, so we will see how that goes.
Great video showing the differences thank you for sharing. Can you tell me what temps and settings you used for the polycarbonate? I am looking into trying it. Been using nylon which is usually good but PC seems to have advantages.
the prusa pc cf uses powered cf its not strong at all, if they would of used milled cf it would of been stronger, Atomic cf petg is stronger than prusa pc cf
Your acting like that part is not going to work lol.. it literally looks perfect.. the fact that it spins means absolutely nothing unless your trying to print a gasket....
Matterhackers Nylon X and Nylon G are garbage filaments. I had nothing but problems and I've been printing high temp "difficult to print" filaments for 2+ years. I'll check out this filament. If you're looking for a CF reinforced nylon the Novamid CF-10 is quite good.
I've also had good experiences with PolyMide PA-6 CF, as it never warps, although it does only really print well when quite dry. After leaving it in a box of dessicant for about 2-3 months (maybe more, can't remember), it did have moisture.
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NylonX can be finicky. I called MatterHackers about it and was able to solve the issue with the right build surface. Per there recommendation, I now use Garolite and glue stick for NylonX and have not had a problem sense. I use the Raise3D Pro 2 which is an enclosed printer. Before printing with NylonX I usually pre-heat the chamber with the bed for about 20 minutes before starting the print. Once started let it go. I've found that opening the chamber is enough to start causing problems mainly warping. Hope that helps someone out there.
I've abandoned NylonX for the Prusament carbon fiber version they released. Haven't had an issue yet.
@@mattmakenfix9411 Yeah, the struggle with the nylons is that they always have trouble sticking, as the comment above suggested, garolite almost works too well. I think the only time I might use the nylon versions is for gears since the nylon part is self lubricating
@@mattmakenfix9411 also, if you do ever need to use the nylons and are getting the garolite sheets you need a fairly thick sheet so it can resist the pulling forces from the nylon wanting to warp 😉
@@lio1234234how thick?
I recently read for nylons, the best way to avoid warp is to leave it in an enclosure and let it cool slowly and completely. It was explained as similar to how metal warps when going from hot to cold unevenly. I haven't printed with nylon yet so I can't verify this. GL.
I'll try the cool down procedure. Might make a difference.
With NylonX, the warping begins pretty much immediately and the tension just increases as the print progresses. If you have a flexible magnetic bed and attempt a big enough print, it will actually start to overpower the magnets and begin curling the entire bed inwards on itself. This stuff is incredibly difficult to print without a raft and even under ideal conditions while using a raft it can still be problematic.
Reminds me of a doc I watched a week or two back, where the first company 3D printing rockets realized that the only way to deal with warpage was to model it into the slicer, so they print crooked and let it warp itself straight.
@@mattmakenfix9411 Try a much cooler bed with glue stick. Many people seem to have good results with 70-80c first layer temp and then 35c for the rest of the print. The higher bed temp seems to induce warping if it cannot completely hold the entire print down.
I’ve always had issues with Nylon X. Switched to 3DXTECH filament and never looked back
I have heard good things about their filaments
Thier version of Nylon CF?
@@blackwater7183 Yes. The one I bought was PA6+CF Gen 3. But also consider the ASA+CF which is stiffer and less expensive making it my most used and favorite carbon fiber reinforced material.
My own experience using PC Blend CF somewhat mirrors your own. Seems to me it prints even easier than PLA or PETG, and the results come out near perfect. But I plan to test it now using the clearance castle test print, so see how it does on the fine details and clearances.
Polymakers nylon is pretty good imo. Prints like pla, and doesnt warp thanks to their warp free tech and fiber adhesion stuff. I tried some warp tests and the cf nylon parts didnt warp at all. They were perfectly flat. Its also relatively affordable so I would reccomend that. Been printing it on my prusa since march.
Thanks for the tips!
@@mattmakenfix9411 Also, their nylon works well without glue. I used 3dlac for it. Works wonders
@@josiahong5177 3DLAC worked great for me too. But I used prefer Magigoo PC for PC.
If you are having issues with no flat bottom surfaces please take a look into the concept of preloaded asymmetrical stress and strain from the act of printing certain shapes. Most of the time this phenomenon is not from printing but printing with a particular set of settings coupled with a particular geometry.
Oh, Thats something Ive never considered before. I'll have to look into that. Thanks!
Also, the fact that it's greyer means it likely has a higher carbon content than the nylonx
Yeah, it is quite noticiable when you've got it infront of you compared to the NylonX
Yes. The closer color it is to pencil lead the higher the carbon content.
i actually think the have the same content, its just PC is transparent or more matte than the PA12 in Nylon X. Think theyre both 20% carbon fiber. I use PolyMide PA6-CF and notice its pretty graphite in color.
Taulman Nylon 230 is pretty good for low to no warpage. I get very consistent results printed in an enclosure. Printed a lot of gears with great results.
Yeah, I keep meaning to try out some other nylons just to compare them because it is a nice material once it prints properly
I have used 230 taulman and it prints very nicely but it is quite flexible. I wish taulman would make a 230 with carbon fiber.
ooffff that intro is the nozzle scraping? send shivers down my back lol
Look close. You can see the gap between the nozzle and plate when it moves
Can you comment on the layer adhesion of the PC-CF? From what I hear layer adhesion in 3d printed PC is already not great, and that CF-fill just makes the layer adhesion of any filament worse. That is the only reason its not used for 100% of my high impact functional prints at this point (and the fact that its always out of stock lol)...
Oh dang! Wow. You did really try!
I print the non cf one in an enclosure, atm without a fan. It's more black and I have more lifting at the edges.
Yeah, I tried with an enclosure. Perhaps I need to try a better one or something
With the prusament PC and PCCF, they do recommend not to do it on the smooth sheet because adhesion is too high, so it's probably good you used glue stick since it would have acted as a release agent
I tend not to use the smooth sheet at all when printing, Prefer the textured sheet for everything I print.
@@mattmakenfix9411 I made the mistake of using the smooth sheet on a part I made with the Prusa PC Carbon filament and it DESTROYED my smooth sheet. Completely ripped the top coating off with the part. Textured sheet ftw!
Nice vid. Main issues working with CF-based material are health related. And also questions about cold creep.
So far mechanically, they are working great for me.
Can you elaborate on the health related issues?
@@bArda26 it needs special care in handling as it can easily penetrate the skin, and it may produce dust which is not good for your lungs.
@@brisance I disagree with how you are presenting the information. Do you have credible sources to back up your claims?
@@spermwater "The principal health hazards of carbon fibre handling are due to mechanical irritation and abrasion similar to that of glass fibres. Carbon fibres are easily broken by stretching (by less than 2% elongation); the fibres can easily become a fine dust during cutting, machining or mechanical finishing and can then be released into the surrounding atmosphere. These micro fibres if uncontrolled have a potential to stick into human skin or the mucous membranes causing irritation." www.monash.edu/ohs/info-docs/safety-topics/chemical-management/carbon-fibre-composites-ohs-information-sheet
Súper clear, thanks a lot!!!
Non usi enclosure quando stampi carbonio Prusament?
Did you try a garolite bed? I hear that helps a lot.
I have no issues getting NylonX to stick on a garolite surface with PVA gluestick.
It just hasn't been working for me regardless of what I do. I do have some CFNylon from Prusa now along with their new buildplate for nylon, so we will see how that goes.
does it wear the nozzle? ive heard if we print using carbon fiber it is abrasive material that can wear your nozzle
Yeah, it will destroy a brass nozzle in no time at all. Hardened Steel is what you need to use for abrasive filament.
Try printing the first couple of layers and then pausing the print until it's completely cured and then resume
Great video showing the differences thank you for sharing. Can you tell me what temps and settings you used for the polycarbonate? I am looking into trying it. Been using nylon which is usually good but PC seems to have advantages.
The PC I used is the one by Prusa. I believe its 285 nozzle and 115 on the bed.
try using g10 as a print bed for nylon x
I am planning on getting something like that for the future for sure
Polycarb absorbs water like crazy....it must be dried.
Did you print the pc enclosed?
I've printed it with both and haven't had any issues either way
the prusa pc cf uses powered cf its not strong at all, if they would of used milled cf it would of been stronger, Atomic cf petg is stronger than prusa pc cf
I haven't had any strength issues with it so far
Your acting like that part is not going to work lol.. it literally looks perfect..
the fact that it spins means absolutely nothing unless your trying to print a gasket....
Matterhackers Nylon X and Nylon G are garbage filaments. I had nothing but problems and I've been printing high temp "difficult to print" filaments for 2+ years. I'll check out this filament. If you're looking for a CF reinforced nylon the Novamid CF-10 is quite good.
Yeah, I've had a few issues with the consistancy tends to leave a lot of burrs I found
I've also had good experiences with PolyMide PA-6 CF, as it never warps, although it does only really print well when quite dry. After leaving it in a box of dessicant for about 2-3 months (maybe more, can't remember), it did have moisture.