CarbonX™ PC+CF, Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate 3D Printing Filament by 3DXtech
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 มิ.ย. 2024
- Buy Here: visionminer.com/materials
0:00 - CFPC from 3DXTech
1:52 - What Industries Use This Material
2:19 - What Temps You Need to Print This
4:05 - Material Specifications
5:03 - Environmental Factors
7:14 - Example Parts
11:12 - Break Tests
15:14 - Burn Tests
19:30 - Outro
CarbonX Carbon-fiber Reinforced Polycarbonate Filament, known as CF-PC, is a fantastic carbon-filled printing material that not only delivers great structural integrity at a high heat, softness, and with excellent surface quality.
Polycarbonate is used EVERYWHERE -- there’s probably some within reach of you, as you’re watching this video: Electronic components, as a good insulator while being heat-resistant and flame-retardant; construction materials, like dome lights, glazing, roofing sheets, sound walls; In data storage, all those CD’s, DVD’s, and Blu-Rays are made of polycarbonate… in sheets/films, it’s used for signs, displays, and posters. Carbon fiber polycarbonate is often seen in the automotive industry because of its thermal properties, in manufacturing for tooling and jigs, and in aerospace for tubing.
WHAT KIND OF MACHINE DO YOU NEED TO PRINT THIS FILAMENT?
Nozzle Temp: 280-310°C
Bed Temp: 110 - 120°C - for adhesive, our Nano Polymer Adhesive works great!
Chamber Temp: You don’t HAVE to have a heated chamber, but on anything bigger than a few inches, it sure helps a LOT.
If you’re dual-extruding, this stuff works great with Aquatek X1 support filament, also from 3DXTech!
For bed adhesion, our nano polymer adhesive works GREAT on every surface we’ve tested! One bottle to rule them all…. Seriously, our stuff works with just about every material aside from POM and PP, so grab a bottle if you haven’t already!
Speed: again, 40-80mm/s and faster - on the HSE, they’re printing this stuff at 50-500 mm/s -- that’s right -- the HSE is an incredible machine, make sure you look that up.
Chamber Temp: Not required, but 60+c is helpful for strength!
Drying: yes, you MUST dry this filament. Like almost every thermoplastic, this does need to be dried thoroughly before processing, which is the fancy word for melting.
We do have a full drying kit, including the vacuum chamber, at visionminer.com -- it’s the best way we’ve found to get all that moisture out, so your prints don’t get ugly and weak. We’re here to make it easy, and that’s why we ALSO made METAL spools, so you can dry at higher temps, faster. With Nylon, a vacuum chamber helps a TON, so definitely check those out.
BASIC MATERIAL SPECS:
The addition of Carbon Fiber in PC increases flexural and tensile strengths, making material more rigid when printed. Without Carbon Fiber, the known specs for strength in polycarbonate filaments are:
Tensile Strength: 95MPa
Tensile Elongation: 60% at Break
Tensile Modulus: 320MPa
Flexural Strength: 15MPa
While measurements on CarbonX CF+PC are not readily available, you can assume the addition of CF adds to these measurements for normal PC by 3DxTech.
Environmental Factors
UV: Not the greatest, as Polycarbonate does break down over time, with direct exposure to sunlight.
Hydrolytic resistance
Absorbs water very fast normally, will absorb water less so after printing
Food-safe/Sterilization
Food contact for CF-filled items is not recommended
Chemicals
Gasoline
Oil & hydrocarbons
Great resistance to greases, lubricants, and oils
Alcohols: Good (Methyl, Ethyl, Benzyl, Butyl)
Acetone: Vulnerable
Chlorine: Fair Resistance
Sulfuric Acid & HCL: Vulnerable
Electrical
Insulating
3.17 Dielectric Constant at 60Hz
10^16 Ohm Resistance
Carbon Fiber will negatively impact PC’s insulative properties
Check out our other videos for the full comparisons! At Vision Miner, we specialize in Functional 3D printing, especially high-performance plastics like PEEK, ULTEM, PPSU, PPS, CFPA, and more. We also have extensive experience with 3D scanners, and a whole array of solutions available for purchase. If you're interested in using functional 3D printing and materials in your business, feel free to reach out, and we can help you make the right choice for your application.
Call 833-774-6863 or email contact@visionminer.com, and we're here to help!
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The layer adhesion is disappointing, but the candid honesty on every aspect in your presentations is what I absolutely count on and one of the things that keeps bringing be back over and over to your channel. Can't wait for each new episode. Keep up the great work!
YESSS!!! FINALLY! been waiting for CF-PC a long timr
I'd like to see ISO 527 and the strain vs stress curves! please. Manufacturers often provide just the modulus, tensile strength and elongation at break, but the curve gives you so much more information :D
I'd also like to see HDT curves like the ones polymaker provides.
You should consider some bullet proof testing with that CF-PC. Maybe test different thickness and infill settings with different caliber projectiles.
Y’all have pushed me further beyond PLA et al, thanks!
Yup. They got me so much into this, that I upgraded my CR-10 countless times, until I was able to print pretty much every material he has shown so far, all the way to PEEK.. :D
@@Sleepery22 wow that's impressive!
@@Sleepery22 do you have a page or something so we can see your printer? I have a Tevo Tornado and I'd like to do something like you've done.
@@3dPrintingMillennial 3d printing - 300C Plus Club
@@Sleepery22 do you have a BOM? I heard the 400-500 heater cartridges are terrible for filament like PLA as in they are inaccurate in normal pla ranges
Thank you so much for making this video. Very informative and valuable. Would love to try this material out
Glad it was helpful!
I have this sitting by my Guider 2s waiting to print as soon as I get home from my honeymoon!
I really like 3Dxtech. They’re local to me here in Grand Rapids always extremely helpful all there filaments are made right in their factory.
Wow that heat resistance really impressed me. ^_^
Great video! Would love to see a comparison between carbon fiber nylon. Interested in seeing moisture warpage against the elements, UV, impact, and temperature resistance.
This is good stuff one fav for sure best cf pc I have run
killer video boys as always
Would like to see you guys do your usual thorough examination of a polypropylene + 30% glass fiber filament. I'm sure it is a nozzle killer, but it is probably pretty tough stuff. Would genuinely like to see it go through the patented Vision Minor analysis and testing. Thanks very much.
id love to see you comparing your engineering and high-performance filaments to common metals like brass, aluminum, steel, and heat-treated steel.
Just download the data sheet and boom there it is!
extremely helpful thanks.
Thank you! More coming, make sure you're subscribed! :)
Just subscribed, having liked three videos on the trot. Good stuff. Keep it up.
A drop test or impact test of a standard model would help when deciding which material is best for the job. Perhaps a pendulum weight released from increasing heights against standard diameter pipe/rod with a flat plate base clamped to the bench, to test shearing forces? (if some of these things are covered on your data sheets, sorry. I haven't fully explored your website yet).
I'm now going to search your videos to see if you have one on the placement of threaded inserts.
Cheers
Hi there, thanks for your videos. Waiting for the carbon fiber filaments videos. Will be nice to see the difference between them on mechanical and chemical properties. Everyone talks about Nylon with carbon fiber as the best all around material (not high temp machine) and it will be interesting to see all the other materials compared to it.
v8 intake manifolds are a key printing goal this winter for us. which materials would you try with this? 120-160 c using coated or wrapped exhaust, light oil and gasoline, normally aspirated only, so pressures will be low. vibrations haha.
I would love to see the difference in a reprint vase with a much hotter chamber then The 90c chamber On the fun mat maybe print one on the 410 and retest just hotter chamber
Thanks for the videos, they are quite informative. I am looking for a material that has a low elongation and actually on the brittle side so I am leaning toward the PC - CF material. The data sheet for the CarbonX Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate 3D Printing Filament has the Tensile(70MPa) Elongation, Break at 2%. A low elongation is a characteristic that appears to be what would best fit my application. A test I would like to see done would be cylinders with sealed ends with a port for an NPT or other fitting and tested by applying an internal air pressure to the cylinder (of known size of close to Ø3.000") and test it for burst pressure with know wall thickness (.020" - .080"). This would be great info if all of the CF filaments were compared this way. You could submerge the cylinders in water to keep it safe. Please use caution but that would make for a cool video. The stress strain curves would also be good info if obtainable. Thanks! :~)
How about a stress test of a part printed vertically like a round shaft or rectangular bar.
Great Stuff i am very interested in,
I would like to know what the best filament is for 3D printing 12 gauge tripwire alarms that’s used mostly outdoors.
Basically a tripwire moves 12 gauge shotgun shell explodes
can you suggest what would be fan setting for print
I prefer PC-CF over Nylon12-CF for my Makerbot Method-X. 1) PC-CF sticks to build-tak with zero adhesive (I'm running a heated chamber at 95°C) and 2) SR-30 sticks to PC-CF well but not too well (Nylon12-CF basically welds itself to SR-30 and I can't separate the prints from the raft).
I need to make a part that will be in steam that is around 215F for 24 hours or longer at a time what would be a good filament for this application?
What is goin to be a ideal strong and rigid printer out of the box without needing to upgrade to mitigate arm twist and breaking points...
What’s the best retraction settings ? Distance and speed
Different for every machine, on the Funmat usually around 1-2.5mm
I'm pretty new to printing and have had successes in every other material I've tried, including abs, except this one... I would love to get in contact with you guys for some advise on what I may be doing wrong
crank the nozzle temp, go slower than recommended -- that usually gets us better results :)
@@VisionMiner Thanks a bunch.... any suggestions on layer height?
@@VisionMiner using .4mm nozzle on prusa i3 mk3s+
0.2 gives great results, hides the layers pretty well :)
Why does your office chair have holes for a 5 point harness? Are you in an earthquake zone? Hurricanes maybe?
Edit: please install a 5 point harness and strap In for your next video
Yeah, earthquakes are a thing, can't risk Rob falling out of the chair mid-shoot, we'll get some takata straps in there!
Soo, whatever happened to that big comparison video you were teasing for months? This is the last material video ina while, did something happen?
So, we ended up building a UTM machine to get actual numbers, and are currently in the process of printing all the test bars and parts :) Coming VERY soon, make sure you're subscribed! :)
I'm going to make a fishing spinning wheel reel. Which filament is the hardest and strongest? ABS/PC, PC/CF or others? Thanks..
CF is going to be harder but not necessarily stronger
@@SweetStat Ok. Only polycarbonate (PC) usage make it is a problem?
@@soneralpay7565 only polycarbonate is prob going to be the strongest but the hardest to print. Pc cf is going to be harder and easier to print.
You're going to need a all metal hot end and hardened steel nozzle for carbon fiber.
Comparative test that YOU really want to do (and we wanna see):
Print benchy in each different material and torch them with real blow torch until they completely melt or burn! :)
For extra thrill: record a second video with FLIR camera! :D
@@Sleepery22 You have no idea how much we actually want to do this...... that's it, we're making a jig. Probably going to do this testing outside though HAH!
Nilonx CF or Nilonx PC+CF which is more resistant to forces?
Your question cannot be answered as stated. They are both resitant to force in different ways 😂 -- I also think your brands got mixed up. Nylon is more impact resistant but PC tends to be more rigid, for one...
Looking at your technical data sheets (which I appreciate very much btw thank you for that), you provide data for tensile, bending, heat deflection, and electrical resistance.
I'd also love to see impact resistance in kJ/m^2, moisture absorption curves, chemical resistance data, and Z axis tensile (layer adhesion).
I'm looking for an engineering grade filament, capable of running on an ender3 without a heated chamber, with good impact resistance, stiffness, strength, toughness, and moisture and heat resistance. Specifically comparing EZ PC and EZ PC CF, both of which I'd love more specs on. You claim they don't require a heated chamber, which hopefully means they're not warp prone on large parts. Thank you for the information.
The cfpc I got says print at 250-260
They're all different, and that's just a starting point, anyways :)
Print wrenches and take apart rusted up car parts.
Great video
Some day Asa vs carbon fiber?
Pc is a different beast and does not really compare to Asa ones like a bear the other is like a dinosaur as old as pc is lol
PC doesnt need any adhesives if you have a PEI build surface. Sure, using an adhesive definitely makes printing PC easier, but wheres the fun in that?
Any hydroscopic media that ships with a broken or no vacuum is not ok and a definite no-sale for me.
In my opinion real pc needs a chamber just sayin
However you may get small parts to come off if it’s Carbon fiber without but......mehhhh
I'm a new printer....send me rolls to "test".
I put my printers together like aircraft. I'm a tool maker with a lathe and mill. I will make good use of the rolls.
I wonder how many of these comments are paid for I'm going to come on was in the first 5 minutes he's telling you you have to dry your filament first That's not professional
Zero paid comments... we take pride in zero BS techniques for growing our social media followings. No fake likes, no fake followers, no fake comments -- that's not how we roll. We like seeing actual progress :)
However, I'm having trouble understanding your comment...... are you saying that telling people the filament needs to be dried before processing is unprofessional? Many people don't actually realize how totally important that is for good parts... or am I misunderstanding?