If you're anything like me, the end of this project isn't the best part. I love modification and the engineering that goes along with it. The losing sleep at night thinking of how to make it work and countless hours of looking up parts to see what might and might not work. It's a good feeling of accomplishment.
I couldn't have said it better myself. I always have a project of some kind, so I can keep my mind occupied. These are the best types of projects for me, the ones that have not been done or well documented (or kept secret).
I’ve watched your videos for some time now, And it seems to me especially the Ford 5000 engine conversion, You are telling what’s happening were you use to virtually show everything in great detail, Especially being brought up with fords on the farm and operating them from a very early age, There are not many videos about the Ford 5000, Manly only JD & international & AC. 🇬🇧🇮🇪.
Just came crossed this channel with the previous video in this series. Honestly one of the more relaxing videos with this type of content. I’ve really enjoyed watching.
I have watched this twice. This is a huge hat-tip to you and your commitment to your vision. You see it in your mind's eye and go for it. I'm looking forward to the next video
sitting here up on the Mekong River pulling apart a Massey Ferguson 185, which is a first for me..its learn as I go, and tools are basic..your video gives me strength to carry on..Nice job of the Ford..I have a 1970's Ford 5000 Backhoe tractor too, which is worn but does the job..
I've never been so engrossed in a tractor build as i have with this one, this is an absolute credit to your passion and ingenuity and i really take my hat off to you. Absolutely awesome job buddy 👌🏻
Top notch fabrication , everything looks well thought out . I started almost the same build for pulling but ended up selling it before it was complete . Can’t wait for the next video !
This is such an awesome project, dude. I love the detail you go into. Always wanted to do something like this and never had the know how. I probably won't ever, but I absolutely love these shenanigans. Thanks for making these vids.
That’s actually ingenious!!!! I would’ve tried making an adapter plate and spacing out the flywheel and everything else… It would’ve taken a lot longer and caused a lot more problems!👍😸
Happen across your channel and love how you think. You do good work. New subscriber and will follow whatever you decide to work on. Looking forward to seeing your videos.
First of all, I congratulate you. This is a big project. It wasn't really easy to put the pieces together. I have a tractor retrofitted with a 6-cylinder Ford Thames engine. MM mineapolis moline 👍👍
A friend of mine who is an agriculture contractor over here in South West UK has a 5000 with Perkins 6543 in it conv pobly done in 1970s and used for forage harvesting.
At 54:40 you are speculating what to do with the front stick out parts of the frame rails. If it was me, I'd leave it long, and make a bracket out of the exact same material to bolt the extreme front ends together. Then you can hang suitcase weights on it, or put a rock box on the front.
I'd convert it to full orbitrol steering. Just so much more responsive and lighter. To make it perfect, unfortunately one mustn't budge away from cost. And to be fair, you can manufacture your own orbitrol bracket where the steering box sit, and pipes can't be THAT expensive. Ram brackets on the front axle can also be manufactured, and you need a pump and fluid reservoir in any case no matter what system you use. You already need so much parts just to put the conversion kit on, you might just as well go the bit more expensive, but easier route. That conversion kits is never 100% successful, and besides, it looks awkward and cheap. There's only one way, which you already took since you started, and that's the correct way. Do it right, or don't do it at all.
Wow, what enthusiasm, great to see that man. Great work. My only concern is maybe bent steering rod, everything else is a definite overkill. Greetings from Serbia, and continue your great work.
Has to be the same on both sides.... I'm also like that. Beauty and perfection lies in the small detail. Once you get the small things perfect, the rest will follow.
If your steering needs a little more clearance just spread your front axle by one hole and you would have it set time will tell when u have the pivot of the axle with the steering locked. But love what you have done and have given me some good ideas
@marktolman6037 no worries love fords and always used ford engines but have a cummins 6bt and a cat c10 engine which would like to fit to a tractor so got a lot ideas from you
Hey Mark- quick suggestion from another 5000 owner. I read somewhere that it is considered wise to use thick washers on the front axle adjustment bolts if the axle tube is dimpled. Primarily its recommended for a loader however given the increased front axle weight Id consider it cheap insurance. Apparently cracking can result around the bolt holes from shock loads without them. Really enjoying this series- shes gonna be one torquey and pretty girl!
You did a great job figuring out how to make it work out. I personally would have just used a tractor oil pan for the strength. But your frame and steering worked out well. I'm very impressed with you figuring things out. But you might wanna get 6011 welding rods soon. 7018 are dc rods, 6011 are ac rods. And both are strong enough for that application.
metal worker here. you can straighten, quite easily, frame rails with a torch you have. no need of bending or hitting with a hammer. process (a translation i think off) is called "flame straightening". you can google more on that. basically you run narrow red "bead" with a torch, straight over a weld bead, but on opposite side of a plate. the thicker the metal is - the easier it is to straighten and the narrower the run should be. so one 10 -12 mm "red torch bead" will be more than enough in your situation (especially when the frame is bolted under tension in the direction you need. the idea of a process is to crumple metal surface up (because it is under tremendous stress 'cos of welding) while you run the red narrow line, and it will pull itself while you leave it to cool down. a;lso this method reduses welding stresses greatly. p.s. you don't need "big mig". i see you manage sticks quite good, so just get one off those hand-dandy small inverters with a real 160-180Amps and you can weld anything you can think off. lets just leave those transformer buzzbox to the museums. i run Kemmpi minarc150 at the huge construction sites to do all sorts of welds, just because of its weight. ok, back to watching..
If you watch ebay you can get tires cheap, after a month of debating I bought a NEW pair of 11.00-16 4 rib for $200 I was just debating the height difference but at basicly half price of normal I was convinced I see those deals more frequently durring non peak farming seasons. I think the containers show up, and they have to move them
Not sure on the 5000, but the 2000 and 3000 are oil filled. They're a different design with a drag link on each side though. I do know plenty of people replace that oil with EP 0 grease since it won't leak out.
I see two items you may have over looked the forces on the front wheels will be pulling them backwards as your driving forward , second I would have made an adapter for the front mount where you did not have to cut that web piece out of the front casting , but in the long run it's your project do what you want.
Bu kadar emek harcadıktan sonra üzerine güçlü bir motor takıldı mesela bir 4×4 ve 12+12 şanzıman eklebilirdi ağırlık arttı ön lastikler bu ağırlığa yeterli gelmeyebilir fakat yinede güzel çalışma olmuş;Türkiye'den selamlar.
I have an ford 4600 diesel with hydraulic steering rack/wheel no open sylinders aftermarket style like u installed now, i know older 4000s have the same as 4600. Maby u could have used one from these tractors, if so then u only need powersteering pump and two hoses 🤪👍 anyway great build 😎👌
You can get a danfos steering kit for a ford 5000 from comes with box pump ram and hose for around £500 steering. From a company called agrline they send world wide
Awesome work and great craftsmanship but I would get the correct bushing for the front axle that mild steel isn’t going to last long with that weight on it
I agree....unfortunately the stock bushing won't fit because the axle was only machined about halfway through for the original placement. Eventually I will take the axle to a machine shop and have the center pivot bored out bigger to accept the factory bushing.
All the front tombstone were identical hole orientation from the 1960’s through to the ten series, Then Ford changed when they built the 40 series in the start of year 2000, Our British agriculture contracting was based on thirty Ford 5000 or 7610 the 7840 six cylinder fords when virtually everything was changed from the early 1960’s 5000 & 7610.tractors 🇬🇧🇮🇪.
Harbor freight is discontinuing their 9 piece punch and die set designed to punch shim washers out of shim stock item 95547. And yes it punches up to 3/4" holes . Shim stock selections or by the roll are available.
I'm sure someone already pointed it out but you need clamps on the tube at the inner joint of your tie rods just like the ones on the outer tie rod ends...
@marktolman6037 I'm not sure if we're talking about the same thing, maybe? I mean where the tie rod tubes connect to the center piece you machined. It looked as though the ends of the tubes had slits which indicates they need a clamp to keep the tube from expanding.
Yes we are talking about the same thing. Those inner tie rods had a nut with a female taper, and the tie rod tube has a male taper to match. As you tighten the nut, it tightens the tube around the threads. It's all factory. The slit you see is so the tube can tighten.
@marktolman6037 I get it now. I swore I saw that joint flex at one point when you moved the tire but it probably just wasn't tightened yet. BTW, that weight hanger and factory bracket really worked out nice compared to having to fabricobble an entire mounting system for the axle pivot
I had those nuts just finger tight up until I adjusted the toe, so it was flexing when I was setting up the power steering. Thanks, I was very pleased with the way it worked for making that axle bracket. Sometimes, those wild ideas pay off.
Just found your channel and finished watching both swap videos. Keep up the great work and content! I think this is very interesting and unique project. You mentioned it would be the last time this tractor was hooked to your bush hog, what do you plan on using it for once complete?
Thanks. The tractor will probably have a pretty easy life, I'll be doing some tractor pulling and easy mowing. Maybe take it to a coulple truck/tractor shows a year. Before the swap, I mowed around 30 acres a year with the bush hog. I may only mow the same acreage with a batwing.
One piece of advice I can give you as a machinist. Take that chuck key out. Don't take your hand off of it while it's in the chuck. It only takes one time forgetting and it'll be very painful to the machine or to you.
That other sump would have fixed a whole lot of issues and attack the balancer with a parting tool would prolly let all steering in the front housing with just the rod back to the steering box made a bit longer
The oil pan from a 9600 or tw would have been a good move, but I tried off camera measuring the balancer, but even as short as I could cut it off there still wasn't room for original steering. I would need to get the water pump back, so that involved getting a whole new front section from a donor tractor, and a tractor balancer. I looked into that, way more money.
Literally thousands of 5000 tractors were built in the uk with manual steering as power steering was a optional extra, Have you tried and ford breaker in uk for your genuine 5000 steering parts🇬🇧🇮🇪
I believe so....solely because 1, there's not much room for a bigger one, and 2, the tractor will not be working the engine nearly as hard as the truck would. Also with the oil cooler and large oil capacity, I hope it keeps cool. I'm also trying to figure out how to add an auxillary radiator using the old heater core lines...
@@marktolman6037 awesome work. for the cooling, a couple things to add. old rule of thumb is 1/3 of energy goes out tail pipe, third into the radiator and a third to your transmission. so if your engine is making more torque thru its range, the cooling load will be higher as well. your peak torque is highest fuel consumption an low RPM, which is low water and air flow (if belt driven fan). didn't pay attention to the radiator when you pulled it, but those usually had large top tanks to quiet the flow and remove trapped air. i would look on the new diesel to see if the highest point on the engine is lower than the top hose to get out all trapped air or if there is an air bleed line to vent. also, old tractors had 7 psi caps as the system wasn't restrictive. if the coolant flow of that pump is higher or over all restriction in the system is up, might want to consider a 13 psi cap to avoid low water pump inlet pressure and pump cavitation. if not using in extreme dust conditions, you can also look to have core changed and increase fin pitch and ad tabulators to the fins to increase heat exchange, but there is a trade off. but can add a screen in front.
@@marktolman6037happy to help if you have any questions. To add, to this but not same system, air cleaner size should be reviewed to ensure low restrictive airflow
No, had to make a frame and new front axle support. Actually had to make the whole front custom. Took me many hours of making and remaking but it was a fun project
Well I guess I don't really need the power, I primarily was looking to upgrade from the gas engine to a diesel for the boost in fuel economy.....but I couldn't find a used 256 or 268 4 cylinder anywhere for a decent price....so I started looking for other options. This 6 cylinder looked like it would fit, and the price was right. Plus I like doing conversion projects like this. The power will be sweet too.
@ see mine had the diesel 4 cylinder in it I didn’t even know the 5000 could be had in gas not that Iv seen a lot them handful but ones Iv been around all had the diesel in it. The 3000s I see them with gas often now im with u
Pro tip. If you tell me that the tractor still isn’t gonna run by the end of the video and show what if will look like. Well I’m just not gonna watch a 2 and a half hour long video of it still not running.
Why would you want to reduce the pin size from 1” 1/8 to 1”, You building something way over kill yet others you want to reduce items which support the front axle and also part of the engine load, It doesn’t really make no sense 🇬🇧🇮🇪,
That pin and bracket came from a Ford 6000, which is a 6 cylinder tractor and heavier than the 5000. I felt it was adequate. If it has any issues, I can modify to a heavier bracket.
To bad you had to destroy a perfectly good tractor with all that nonsense. Btw you can still get new pivot pins and bushings from New Holland. Instead of using worn out parts and a tail pipe as a bushing.
My apologies the engine swap does not tickle your fancy. To defend my actions. The unused side of the axle pivot was never machined to final dimension when it left the factory. The original pivot bushing only went halfway through... so your mentioned bushings won't fit the unused side unless it's machined to fit. So, to keep the project moving, I used a piece of mild steel and added a grease fitting. The factory pin contacts a bit of the old bushing still in place.
All the front tombstone were identical hole orientation from the 1960’s through to the ten series, Then Ford changed when they built the 40 series in the start of year 2000, Our British agriculture contracting was based on thirty Ford 5000 or 7610 the 7840 six cylinder fords when virtually everything was changed from the early 1960’s 5000 & 7610.tractors 🇬🇧🇮🇪.
If you're anything like me, the end of this project isn't the best part. I love modification and the engineering that goes along with it. The losing sleep at night thinking of how to make it work and countless hours of looking up parts to see what might and might not work. It's a good feeling of accomplishment.
I couldn't have said it better myself. I always have a project of some kind, so I can keep my mind occupied. These are the best types of projects for me, the ones that have not been done or well documented (or kept secret).
Great job on the bellhoushing bracket. Nice to see people still have the skills to think creativly to solve a problem.
Thanks
I’ve watched your videos for some time now, And it seems to me especially the Ford 5000 engine conversion, You are telling what’s happening were you use to virtually show everything in great detail, Especially being brought up with fords on the farm and operating them from a very early age, There are not many videos about the Ford 5000, Manly only JD & international & AC. 🇬🇧🇮🇪.
Just came crossed this channel with the previous video in this series. Honestly one of the more relaxing videos with this type of content. I’ve really enjoyed watching.
Thank you
I have watched this twice. This is a huge hat-tip to you and your commitment to your vision. You see it in your mind's eye and go for it. I'm looking forward to the next video
Thank you
Fantastic workmanship this is going to be a fair machine with a 7.8 turbo.
I hope so! Thanks
sitting here up on the Mekong River pulling apart a Massey Ferguson 185, which is a first for me..its learn as I go, and tools are basic..your video gives me strength to carry on..Nice job of the Ford..I have a 1970's Ford 5000 Backhoe tractor too, which is worn but does the job..
Thanks, happy wrenching
I've never been so engrossed in a tractor build as i have with this one, this is an absolute credit to your passion and ingenuity and i really take my hat off to you.
Absolutely awesome job buddy 👌🏻
Thank you very much
An amazing amount of intelligent design work and fabrication to get this all to come together so very nicely 👌
Thank you
Top notch fabrication , everything looks well thought out .
I started almost the same build for pulling but ended up selling it before it was complete . Can’t wait for the next video !
Thanks! I've always heard of the swap, but could not find any info on it so I decided to figure it out myself
Dear Mark, I am impressed with your workmanship. I would like to see what you do with Ford
Thank you
Brilliant video. Great thought process, problem solving and skills. Looking forward to the next installment
Thanks
This is such an awesome project, dude. I love the detail you go into. Always wanted to do something like this and never had the know how. I probably won't ever, but I absolutely love these shenanigans. Thanks for making these vids.
Thanks! Projects like this are like a puzzle that you don't have all the pieces for haha
The Master, great fabrication Mark, so good to see a dude who knows his business.............you ARE youtube, glad I found your channel, thankyou Sir
Well thank you greatly
@@marktolman6037 welcome Sir, just love your business..........so impressed !
Don't have to apologize for your welds! Alot better than most of us could do!
Thanks
That’s actually ingenious!!!! I would’ve tried making an adapter plate and spacing out the flywheel and everything else… It would’ve taken a lot longer and caused a lot more problems!👍😸
Thanks
Happen across your channel and love how you think. You do good work. New subscriber and will follow whatever you decide to work on. Looking forward to seeing your videos.
Thank you
Your work and for though is off the hook. Thank you for sharing
Thanks, glad it's appreciated
hello Mr Mark , fantastic job for the tractor !!!!! I wait to see the nextvideo !!!!
Thanks
Dude, you're awesome at fabrication. I wanted to watch another 2hrs. Thanks for the great content. Following along!
Thanks
Excellent! Will be interested to see the progress in the next video.
Thanks
I love the way You Think. Thanks I watched all the video 2 part on a Cold Sat. Thanks Tim from Canada.
Thanks
You should definitely put a pair of 10.00-16s on the front, keep up the great job !!!!
Thanks
Great video. Lot of work!! Great fabrication. Enjoyed watching 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you
Looks awesome going to need bigger rubber front and back very cool project 38 in rubber in the back will help keep traction with the extra horses
Thanks, on the lookout
Really nice work! Can't wait to see the next video.
Thank you
First of all, I congratulate you. This is a big project. It wasn't really easy to put the pieces together. I have a tractor retrofitted with a 6-cylinder Ford Thames engine. MM mineapolis moline 👍👍
Thanks! Sounds like a cool swap, any pics? Or details?
@ There is a video in the profile
Cool swap, just found it
Definitely beefy & solid enough great job looks amazing 💯👍🏻
Thanks
A friend of mine who is an agriculture contractor over here in South West UK has a 5000 with Perkins 6543 in it conv pobly done in 1970s and used for forage harvesting.
That's a cool swap. Any pics?
At 54:40 you are speculating what to do with the front stick out parts of the frame rails. If it was me, I'd leave it long, and make a bracket out of the exact same material to bolt the extreme front ends together. Then you can hang suitcase weights on it, or put a rock box on the front.
Your e-bay yellow 6610 bracket is even a much better idea than mine! Good job, I like it!!
For front wheels I'd go for 900x16 four rib on wider rims
I'd convert it to full orbitrol steering. Just so much more responsive and lighter. To make it perfect, unfortunately one mustn't budge away from cost. And to be fair, you can manufacture your own orbitrol bracket where the steering box sit, and pipes can't be THAT expensive. Ram brackets on the front axle can also be manufactured, and you need a pump and fluid reservoir in any case no matter what system you use. You already need so much parts just to put the conversion kit on, you might just as well go the bit more expensive, but easier route.
That conversion kits is never 100% successful, and besides, it looks awkward and cheap. There's only one way, which you already took since you started, and that's the correct way. Do it right, or don't do it at all.
Wow, what enthusiasm, great to see that man. Great work. My only concern is maybe bent steering rod, everything else is a definite overkill. Greetings from Serbia, and continue your great work.
Thanks. I also worry about that, especially if I lose lower and it's manual steering. It's just a thin wall tube
New subscriber, DUDE, what an excellent job! I love this type of stuff!!!
Thank you
Suggestion: bolt on a flat plate underneath (if there is room) where you cut the cross member out of the front cast axle support.
Great job so far
Thanks
Bigger to support the new moter
Has to be the same on both sides.... I'm also like that.
Beauty and perfection lies in the small detail. Once you get the small things perfect, the rest will follow.
Exactly
If your steering needs a little more clearance just spread your front axle by one hole and you would have it set time will tell when u have the pivot of the axle with the steering locked. But love what you have done and have given me some good ideas
Thanks
@marktolman6037 no worries love fords and always used ford engines but have a cummins 6bt and a cat c10 engine which would like to fit to a tractor so got a lot ideas from you
It's a fun thing to swap engines that don't belong
Nice job and i suggest you put 9.00-16" tires on the front with the same style ribbing. Cant wait for the next video !
Thanks!
Òoòoò
With 900 tires you will have to flip the rims around as tire vavle on inside as have on my ford 6600 hope this helps e@marktolman6037
Fantastic work keep it up great to watch
I love how you overbuild everything cuzz I do the same and it's for the better right? 😂 But great job Sir you are master at your craft !!
Overkill is life. I don't want to do it a second time. Thanks
Bout time 4 another vid, ❤️ these vids
Thanks
Hey Mark- quick suggestion from another 5000 owner. I read somewhere that it is considered wise to use thick washers on the front axle adjustment bolts if the axle tube is dimpled. Primarily its recommended for a loader however given the increased front axle weight Id consider it cheap insurance. Apparently cracking can result around the bolt holes from shock loads without them.
Really enjoying this series- shes gonna be one torquey and pretty girl!
Good to know, thanks!
You did a great job figuring out how to make it work out. I personally would have just used a tractor oil pan for the strength. But your frame and steering worked out well. I'm very impressed with you figuring things out. But you might wanna get 6011 welding rods soon. 7018 are dc rods, 6011 are ac rods. And both are strong enough for that application.
Thank you
7018 Is both a DC/AC rod like 6011 now 6010 is a DC rod only they have a 7018 AC which works better for AC than standard 7018 does on AC
I purchase the 7018 AC rods from home depot....one of the only places around that still carries them.
@marktolman6037 i got a box form tractor supply about a year or two ago, not a very commonly talked about rod
I'll check them! I usually stock a few to have
metal worker here.
you can straighten, quite easily, frame rails with a torch you have. no need of bending or hitting with a hammer. process (a translation i think off) is called "flame straightening". you can google more on that.
basically you run narrow red "bead" with a torch, straight over a weld bead, but on opposite side of a plate. the thicker the metal is - the easier it is to straighten and the narrower the run should be. so one 10 -12 mm "red torch bead" will be more than enough in your situation (especially when the frame is bolted under tension in the direction you need. the idea of a process is to crumple metal surface up (because it is under tremendous stress 'cos of welding) while you run the red narrow line, and it will pull itself while you leave it to cool down. a;lso this method reduses welding stresses greatly.
p.s. you don't need "big mig". i see you manage sticks quite good, so just get one off those hand-dandy small inverters with a real 160-180Amps and you can weld anything you can think off. lets just leave those transformer buzzbox to the museums. i run Kemmpi minarc150 at the huge construction sites to do all sorts of welds, just because of its weight.
ok, back to watching..
Good advice, thanks. Much appreciated. I'll look into those welders
I would like to suggest, to minimize warpage, just weld short beads of weld, and move to different parts. Hope this helps. Sincerely, Tom
Thanks
Man you did a excellent job problem solving all the way would like to see a video on the new steering and running Google work sir
Thanks. The next video it will be running and driving
If you watch ebay you can get tires cheap, after a month of debating I bought a NEW pair of 11.00-16 4 rib for $200 I was just debating the height difference but at basicly half price of normal I was convinced I see those deals more frequently durring non peak farming seasons. I think the containers show up, and they have to move them
Pretty awesome!!
Thanks
Not sure on the 5000, but the 2000 and 3000 are oil filled. They're a different design with a drag link on each side though. I do know plenty of people replace that oil with EP 0 grease since it won't leak out.
I'll look into that thanks
I see two items you may have over looked the forces on the front wheels will be pulling them backwards as your driving forward , second I would have made an adapter for the front mount where you did not have to cut that web piece out of the front casting , but in the long run it's your project do what you want.
Bu kadar emek harcadıktan sonra üzerine güçlü bir motor takıldı mesela bir 4×4 ve 12+12 şanzıman eklebilirdi ağırlık arttı ön lastikler bu ağırlığa yeterli gelmeyebilir fakat yinede güzel çalışma olmuş;Türkiye'den selamlar.
Thanks
This is wild. I had no idea you could do something like this. I know where a 7.8 is and I wonder if I could do it to my 4000.
It would be possible, but the 4000 is a 3 cylinder and has weaker steering components. But anything is possible with enough drive and budget.
900-16 three rib front tyres should fit in those rims and still clear the steering arms
Fantastic tractor build. Thanks for sharing. Love the attention to detail.
Thanks!
Make a bracket on the front to hold weights
I have an ford 4600 diesel with hydraulic steering rack/wheel no open sylinders aftermarket style like u installed now, i know older 4000s have the same as 4600. Maby u could have used one from these tractors, if so then u only need powersteering pump and two hoses 🤪👍 anyway great build 😎👌
I tried to find something along those lines, but were either way too expensive or not available in my area
Good work
Thanks
You can get a danfos steering kit for a ford 5000 from comes with box pump ram and hose for around £500 steering. From a company called agrline they send world wide
Great 👍 roll on pt 3
Awesome work and great craftsmanship but I would get the correct bushing for the front axle that mild steel isn’t going to last long with that weight on it
I agree....unfortunately the stock bushing won't fit because the axle was only machined about halfway through for the original placement. Eventually I will take the axle to a machine shop and have the center pivot bored out bigger to accept the factory bushing.
I’m not sure how far off it is but you might be able to clean it up with a dermal then use a cylinder hone tool to get to your bushing size
That's an option....I may try that later on
Beautifull job 😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
Thank you
All the front tombstone were identical hole orientation from the 1960’s through to the ten series, Then Ford changed when they built the 40 series in the start of year 2000, Our British agriculture contracting was based on thirty Ford 5000 or 7610 the 7840 six cylinder fords when virtually everything was changed from the early 1960’s 5000 & 7610.tractors 🇬🇧🇮🇪.
Nice job man tell you the truth I would run those front tires until they blow out
That's been my motto for the last several years! Haha thanks
This is a cool project! My favorite one on TH-cam right now and that's saying something. Good work Mark!
Thanks
Harbor freight is discontinuing their 9 piece punch and die set designed to punch shim washers out of shim stock item 95547. And yes it punches up to 3/4" holes . Shim stock selections or by the roll are available.
That's a cool tool
I'm sure someone already pointed it out but you need clamps on the tube at the inner joint of your tie rods just like the ones on the outer tie rod ends...
I reused the original tapered clamp that was on the original tie rod.
@marktolman6037 I'm not sure if we're talking about the same thing, maybe? I mean where the tie rod tubes connect to the center piece you machined.
It looked as though the ends of the tubes had slits which indicates they need a clamp to keep the tube from expanding.
Yes we are talking about the same thing. Those inner tie rods had a nut with a female taper, and the tie rod tube has a male taper to match. As you tighten the nut, it tightens the tube around the threads. It's all factory. The slit you see is so the tube can tighten.
@marktolman6037 I get it now.
I swore I saw that joint flex at one point when you moved the tire but it probably just wasn't tightened yet. BTW, that weight hanger and factory bracket really worked out nice compared to having to fabricobble an entire mounting system for the axle pivot
I had those nuts just finger tight up until I adjusted the toe, so it was flexing when I was setting up the power steering.
Thanks, I was very pleased with the way it worked for making that axle bracket.
Sometimes, those wild ideas pay off.
Nice 😊
A tw20 out pan should work. It has a different oil pickup than a 9600. If you use a tw 20 pan I still would use frame rail supports
I wish there were tractor junkyard out here, it would have been cool to find a complete tractor and take the pan, pickup, pump and everything
@marktolman6037 not sure how far you are from ny but there is a guy that does a lot 6 ford tractor parts.
Just found your channel and finished watching both swap videos. Keep up the great work and content! I think this is very interesting and unique project. You mentioned it would be the last time this tractor was hooked to your bush hog, what do you plan on using it for once complete?
Thanks. The tractor will probably have a pretty easy life, I'll be doing some tractor pulling and easy mowing. Maybe take it to a coulple truck/tractor shows a year. Before the swap, I mowed around 30 acres a year with the bush hog. I may only mow the same acreage with a batwing.
One piece of advice I can give you as a machinist. Take that chuck key out. Don't take your hand off of it while it's in the chuck. It only takes one time forgetting and it'll be very painful to the machine or to you.
I'll definitely work on that. I've read that same thing several other places...I'll turn it into a habit. Thanks.
That other sump would have fixed a whole lot of issues and attack the balancer with a parting tool would prolly let all steering in the front housing with just the rod back to the steering box made a bit longer
The oil pan from a 9600 or tw would have been a good move, but I tried off camera measuring the balancer, but even as short as I could cut it off there still wasn't room for original steering. I would need to get the water pump back, so that involved getting a whole new front section from a donor tractor, and a tractor balancer. I looked into that, way more money.
You could have changed the engine plates and etc its alot easier to install the 401 456 478 are cast out of the same mold so they all interchangeable
looking good
Thanks!
10.00x16
Literally thousands of 5000 tractors were built in the uk with manual steering as power steering was a optional extra, Have you tried and ford breaker in uk for your genuine 5000 steering parts🇬🇧🇮🇪
Awesome
Thanks
If that nose piece is cast steel I think I would have welded a new cross piece slightly in front of the old one before cutting the old one out
What did the 7.8 engine come from originally
1989 ford l8000. In part 1 I showed the truck and removal
Do you think that the radiator will cool the bigger engine sufficiently under a hard pull? Really enjoying this build.
I believe so....solely because 1, there's not much room for a bigger one, and 2, the tractor will not be working the engine nearly as hard as the truck would. Also with the oil cooler and large oil capacity, I hope it keeps cool. I'm also trying to figure out how to add an auxillary radiator using the old heater core lines...
@@marktolman6037 awesome work. for the cooling, a couple things to add. old rule of thumb is 1/3 of energy goes out tail pipe, third into the radiator and a third to your transmission. so if your engine is making more torque thru its range, the cooling load will be higher as well. your peak torque is highest fuel consumption an low RPM, which is low water and air flow (if belt driven fan). didn't pay attention to the radiator when you pulled it, but those usually had large top tanks to quiet the flow and remove trapped air. i would look on the new diesel to see if the highest point on the engine is lower than the top hose to get out all trapped air or if there is an air bleed line to vent. also, old tractors had 7 psi caps as the system wasn't restrictive. if the coolant flow of that pump is higher or over all restriction in the system is up, might want to consider a 13 psi cap to avoid low water pump inlet pressure and pump cavitation. if not using in extreme dust conditions, you can also look to have core changed and increase fin pitch and ad tabulators to the fins to increase heat exchange, but there is a trade off. but can add a screen in front.
That's some good info, I'll definitely put some thought into the cooling system. Much appreciated
@@marktolman6037happy to help if you have any questions. To add, to this but not same system, air cleaner size should be reviewed to ensure low restrictive airflow
Yeah I've got a 4" inlet on turbo, trying to figure out where I can fit that big filter housing without making it look like an afterthought
Here in Europe if u wanted cheap power back in the day u put a perkins in one of those tractors
Thay would be cool
Nice
@@aaronringland6251 thanks
If that block cracks with just its own weight then it will crack if you go over a bump and your wheels bounces on the ground
My thoughts exactly. Thats why I went overkill with the frame rails and mount.
I like these modifications. I did the same with a fordson major tractor. Mounted a deutz 8.4L v6 engine. You can see it on my account.
That's a cool swap! Did the block bolt up easily?
No, had to make a plate in between to make it fit. I made everything with a stick welder and a grinder.
That's awesome. Was there an external frame at all?
No, had to make a frame and new front axle support. Actually had to make the whole front custom. Took me many hours of making and remaking but it was a fun project
I'd love to see more, if you ever post any more videos.
Put some 11l-15 4rib on.
What are u using the tractor for it needs more hp?
For tractor pulls, and also going to be getting a big batwing bush hog soon, hopefully..
@ i had a ford 5000 with a back hoe and loader on it and it had loads of power I was wondering what you need more for bat wing will do that
Well I guess I don't really need the power, I primarily was looking to upgrade from the gas engine to a diesel for the boost in fuel economy.....but I couldn't find a used 256 or 268 4 cylinder anywhere for a decent price....so I started looking for other options. This 6 cylinder looked like it would fit, and the price was right. Plus I like doing conversion projects like this. The power will be sweet too.
@ see mine had the diesel 4 cylinder in it I didn’t even know the 5000 could be had in gas not that Iv seen a lot them handful but ones Iv been around all had the diesel in it. The 3000s I see them with gas often now im with u
I was burning 2 - 2.5 gallons per hour with a 6' rotary cutter.
Good
1100-16
Keep the original size front wheels and tyre size would look marvellous, Larger front whee don’t suit the actual size of the 5000.🇬🇧🇮🇪
น่าจะแรงมากๆ
Thanks
get the steering off an old newholland combine
Pro tip. If you tell me that the tractor still isn’t gonna run by the end of the video and show what if will look like. Well I’m just not gonna watch a 2 and a half hour long video of it still not running.
It's a long process don't want to waste anyone's time lol
Why would you want to reduce the pin size from 1” 1/8 to 1”, You building something way over kill yet others you want to reduce items which support the front axle and also part of the engine load, It doesn’t really make no sense 🇬🇧🇮🇪,
That pin and bracket came from a Ford 6000, which is a 6 cylinder tractor and heavier than the 5000. I felt it was adequate. If it has any issues, I can modify to a heavier bracket.
To bad you had to destroy a perfectly good tractor with all that nonsense. Btw you can still get new pivot pins and bushings from New Holland. Instead of using worn out parts and a tail pipe as a bushing.
My apologies the engine swap does not tickle your fancy.
To defend my actions.
The unused side of the axle pivot was never machined to final dimension when it left the factory. The original pivot bushing only went halfway through... so your mentioned bushings won't fit the unused side unless it's machined to fit. So, to keep the project moving, I used a piece of mild steel and added a grease fitting. The factory pin contacts a bit of the old bushing still in place.
love the video but the sound you make with your mouth gets a bit annoying after an hour
Sorry lol I'll try to invest in a mic or something so I'm not annoying
I am very happy to see your work, love you from Azad Kashmir Pakistan if I have to make you my teacher, is it possible sir? ❤❤
All the front tombstone were identical hole orientation from the 1960’s through to the ten series, Then Ford changed when they built the 40 series in the start of year 2000, Our British agriculture contracting was based on thirty Ford 5000 or 7610 the 7840 six cylinder fords when virtually everything was changed from the early 1960’s 5000 & 7610.tractors 🇬🇧🇮🇪.
Keep the original size front wheels and tyre size would look marvellous, Larger front whee don’t suit the actual size of the 5000.🇬🇧🇮🇪