I did a brake job for a young lady the other day before i seen this video, she said her brakes made so much noise she was scared to drive it anymore, she picked up the parts and came over, the front pads looked like a lot of material on them till i seen the back side was almost to the backing plate, her rotors were very grooved in all on the backside so u cant always tell. Parts were 130 at store she said, local service shop quoted 680.00 , i did them just to help her and her kids to be safe.
Excellent, valid information. You neglected to mention that if you see a pad with plenty of wear left on it, the pad on the other side of the rotor might be worn out if the caliper slide pin is not moving freely. That is not an uncommon occurrence. Pads should be checked both sides. Great overview otherwise.
Moving from California to Pennsylvania, CA measures in MM while PA and all states with state inspections measure in 32nds. If you pull your pads off to inspect, look for cracking which will be failed for state inspection per PD. Also, warped rotors, hot spots, and if rotors have more than .015 run out which that runout will also fail per PD. I just replaced front brakes on a vehicle that had less than .015 runout, but when braking, it had severe brake pulsation and vehicle was shaking. Replaced brakes after inspecting all components and it was gone. The rotors also had really bad hot spots and rotors had bubbles on them even though the pads were at 10mm. The brakes weren’t embedded properly.
very helpful video! I met the exact situation today, doing an oil change and the mechanic just say hey your rear brake rotor is pretty low, needs $600 to fix. Based on your methods, stepping on the brake has no abnormal noise or feeling yet, I guess it can still work for another 5k miles at least.
Really well done, thank you. I'm not sure if I will have a need for any of your other videos but I'm giving you the subscribe as a thanks for this detailed video. Perfect amount of information here.
Man. Informative. I live at the top of a mountain, basically. So no matter what Im always goin downhill for miles everyday. I think its prolly been like 25000 miles since I changed my rear brakes and theyre already grindin. Lol. Ive also read that infinitis tend to go thru brakes quickly. Not sure how true this is.. but def seems fast
I'm glad I could improve your understanding. Manufacturers and different models seem to proportion their braking systems differently. It is not normal to have your rear brakes wear ahead of your front, they must have the proportioning valve tuned to do more work with the rear brakes.
7:32 As crazy as it sounds, that’s actually the opposite on most Nissan/Infiniti models. They tend to go through rear brakes significantly faster than front. I’ve got a 2019 Rogue with 28,000 miles, the rear brakes probably have 5-10,000 miles left but the fronts are like new.
We've had our 2017 Pacifica limited since new and about 3 years ago during a free oil change at the dealer. I was told it needs rear brake pads, funny i thought because its usually the fronts that need changing first. At the time i think it only had about 25000 miles on it so it sounded fishy to me. Went home check it myself and where they said there was maybe 90% wear i found about 90% pad left! I just changed the pads a couple months ago myself, almost 3 years later... That's a dealer for ya. Been wanting to say Thanks for the video on changing the transmission fluid, never in my life have I ever had a car or truck with a sealed transmission! Ridiculous! Dad always taught me to change it at 50,000 miles always. I used the same method you did and the same fluid and it worked fine. It was at about 80000 miles but it still runs fine, I think I will change again every 10,000 miles 3 or 4 more times that should replace most of the fluid just wish i could get at that filter. We're at 91,000 miles and a few minor problems! 3 or 4 times over the years the center screen system didn't start up completely so I'd have to shut the car off and walk away for 5 minutes to let all the computers shut down and then restart. My passenger sliding door still doesn't want to open say 30-40% of the time when you hit the button on the outside, it just beeps but you can open it by hand just fine and then it will always close with the button or manually. Did have the hood replaced for free when the front driver corner by the headlight, started to rust through from the inside. had one low beam headlight burn out. Add maybe a cup of anti-freeze to the coolant over the years. First set of tires were Falken lasted 45000 miles, second set was Uniroyal Tiger Paw I think these will end up somewhere around 55 to 60,000 miles. Next i might go with Michelin CrossClimate2 CUV I have the 20" factory rims. Recently the front end is getting a little squeaky when I'm sitting still starting a turn or just turning the wheels I'll have to look into it, hope its not something starting to wear out, theres nothing to grease anymore. Another YT channel Scotty car repair said to try AT 205 reseal you can put it in a spray bottle and spray it on rubber parts to keep them soft and also in the fluids of the engine and trans, but many people have said don't add it until you have a problem or leak. I've also noticed mostly when its cold the transmission is starting to shift harsh from 1st to 2nd, after a few minutes warming up its fine again. Also when it i first drive for a little while I can just barely feel and hear what sounds and feels like the cv joints are getting a tiny bit loose, as i just gently touch the gas and or get off the gas to maintain speed I its like an old u-joint that has a little play it in as it releases and grabs at the other half of itself. Oh and one last thing (sorry for such a long post) the front seats started losing a little bit of their color from getting in and out of the car, that started at maybe 18,000 miles! Crazy but the dealer and Chrysler both refused to do anything about it, hard to see down by the outside edge of the driver seat and center of the passenger seat. Recently the passenger seat is starting to tare in the center I'm guessing because of all the little holds in the material to let the air blow through. Thought you'd like to read about what someone else has gone through with theirs. Thanks and enjoy!
Great information, thanks for sharing. We can all learn from each other’s experiences. I’ve noticed a burnt coolant smell lately and suspect the oil filter housing/oil cooler is leaking. It’s still under a certified preowned powertrain warranty so I’m going to take it in and see what they say. I’ll make a video on it 👍.
Does you car sit for a few say between drives? If that is the case, it’s likely some corrosion buildup on the rotors. Once the corrosion is worn off the brakes quiet down.
The myth of "warped rotors" has long been dismissed (by any non-money grabbing mechanic, you can Google it and see for yourself) and even proven wrong. Its a solid piece of steel, nearly 1/2in thick, being pressed by your brake pedal. You're not going to be able to "warp" your rotors. They could perhaps use a refinishing but your rotors are not "warped" or mis-shapen. That just does not happen to a solid break rotor, unless youre really using some cheap-ass, bottom of the barrel rotors and you install the rears on the front or something.
Good thoughts, but your overall theory is incorrect. I agree that mechanical stresses are not deforming the rotors, but you are not accounting for the thermal stresses. There are two mechanisms that causes permanent deformation of the rotors, one happens quickly the other takes time. 99% of rotors are made from cast iron which is important to this discussion. The first happens to low cost rotors that are not properly heat treated after casting. The casting process creates residual stresses. These rotors can deform as quickly as one heat cycle. Heat treating is a very expensive process that is the first thing manufacturers skip to cut costs. Also, there is no easy way to inspect the part before installation to determine if heat treating was done. The second cause happens over time but it is still a result of heat cycles. Cast iron, like all metals, has a crystalline atomic structure. This means that the atoms have a defined arrangement. Within this arrangement there are always missing atoms, called dislocations. At elevated temperatures, the atoms move around and hence the dislocations also move. Over many heat cycles the dislocations tend to group up together enough to actually change the dimensions of the rotor.
LUk3 - You are wrong on so many levels and also I can tell you never race. Rotor warping is pretty common when brakes are used extensively, especially when they do lost of heat cycles. Which on 2.3 ton car can happen on decent downhills for example.
I guess that depends on what pulsating you are feeling. If it’s a lub dub that increases/decrease with speed then it is warped rotors. If it’s high speed pulsating from your anti lock system then it is something in the controls or hardware of the ABS.
@@TheLawnEngineer Feels like ,or could be the anti-brake is getting weak? Its Suttle.Thanks.I am just going to keep an eye on it, May need a brake job soon if it gets worst,.
When you jack up your Pacifica, do you use the pinch weld? Or the flat spot where the arrow is? My bottle jack is too tall to fit under pinch weld, but will fit in flat spot. Thanks
I did a brake job for a young lady the other day before i seen this video, she said her brakes made so much noise she was scared to drive it anymore, she picked up the parts and came over, the front pads looked like a lot of material on them till i seen the back side was almost to the backing plate, her rotors were very grooved in all on the backside so u cant always tell. Parts were 130 at store she said, local service shop quoted 680.00 , i did them just to help her and her kids to be safe.
You sound like a good person, thanks for being you.
Sweetheart. ❤
Thank you so much!!
Love the comment ‘Know just enough to be dangerous’. Lol elderly woman here ready to go find a place for my squeaking brakes.
You’re welcome, did you find a decent mechanic?
Elderly woman gonna change mine. Hopefully I don't have to do rotars.❤
Excellent, valid information. You neglected to mention that if you see a pad with plenty of wear left on it, the pad on the other side of the rotor might be worn out if the caliper slide pin is not moving freely. That is not an uncommon occurrence. Pads should be checked both sides. Great overview otherwise.
Thanks for checking in and excellent point on caliper movement.
Moving from California to Pennsylvania, CA measures in MM while PA and all states with state inspections measure in 32nds. If you pull your pads off to inspect, look for cracking which will be failed for state inspection per PD. Also, warped rotors, hot spots, and if rotors have more than .015 run out which that runout will also fail per PD. I just replaced front brakes on a vehicle that had less than .015 runout, but when braking, it had severe brake pulsation and vehicle was shaking. Replaced brakes after inspecting all components and it was gone. The rotors also had really bad hot spots and rotors had bubbles on them even though the pads were at 10mm. The brakes weren’t embedded properly.
Great additions, thank you.
very helpful video! I met the exact situation today, doing an oil change and the mechanic just say hey your rear brake rotor is pretty low, needs $600 to fix. Based on your methods, stepping on the brake has no abnormal noise or feeling yet, I guess it can still work for another 5k miles at least.
Glad it helped! Too bad there are shady mechanics trying to take money.
always pull all four wheels off, and check both outside AND inside pads for thickness.
Good addition 👍
Really well done, thank you. I'm not sure if I will have a need for any of your other videos but I'm giving you the subscribe as a thanks for this detailed video. Perfect amount of information here.
Thanks for the sub! I also appreciate the kind comments; hopefully, I’ll have more content you find some value in.
I learned something new today. Thanks
Awesome, thanks for checking in.
Thanks! I knew I needed new break pads, now I also know what the the "wob wob wob" noise is. Guess I need new rotors as well.
I’m glad I was able to provide some useful information. Thanks for checking in 👍
Wow!😂😂😂
Well, not really. If you are hearing a distinct "wobble" from your front end it's probably NOT the brakes but most likely wheel bearings.
I have a Left rotor that is ridged and low pad and a rubbing sound & rust. But, i was told without the guy looking said i need a Caliper too!
Yes, unfortunately that is a very common practice to extract more money from customers.
Change front rotors and pads and maybe just pads in the back. Put rear brakes in service required. Heavy vehicle got to have good brakes.
That is a good strategy, thanks for checking in.
Man. Informative. I live at the top of a mountain, basically. So no matter what Im always goin downhill for miles everyday. I think its prolly been like 25000 miles since I changed my rear brakes and theyre already grindin. Lol. Ive also read that infinitis tend to go thru brakes quickly. Not sure how true this is.. but def seems fast
I'm glad I could improve your understanding. Manufacturers and different models seem to proportion their braking systems differently. It is not normal to have your rear brakes wear ahead of your front, they must have the proportioning valve tuned to do more work with the rear brakes.
Thank you. Good pictures.❤
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video! Thanks for making it.
You’re welcome
7:32 As crazy as it sounds, that’s actually the opposite on most Nissan/Infiniti models. They tend to go through rear brakes significantly faster than front. I’ve got a 2019 Rogue with 28,000 miles, the rear brakes probably have 5-10,000 miles left but the fronts are like new.
That is crazy, I wonder if they reduced the friction material in the rear in an attempt time front/rear replacement and overshot the target a bit.
Same with my Subaru Outback.
Good points raised.
Thanks for leaving a nice comment
if you have a Chrysler, you need a new car.
That is one way to look at things.
They are JUNK. I know, I lived it with a Concorde with a water pump housed within the engine.
hey the trowel idea is awesome, you got a like and sub bro, for originality !
Thanks for the sub!
Cheers from Stevens Point
Cheers
We've had our 2017 Pacifica limited since new and about 3 years ago during a free oil change at the dealer. I was told it needs rear brake pads, funny i thought because its usually the fronts that need changing first. At the time i think it only had about 25000 miles on it so it sounded fishy to me. Went home check it myself and where they said there was maybe 90% wear i found about 90% pad left! I just changed the pads a couple months ago myself, almost 3 years later... That's a dealer for ya. Been wanting to say Thanks for the video on changing the transmission fluid, never in my life have I ever had a car or truck with a sealed transmission! Ridiculous! Dad always taught me to change it at 50,000 miles always. I used the same method you did and the same fluid and it worked fine. It was at about 80000 miles but it still runs fine, I think I will change again every 10,000 miles 3 or 4 more times that should replace most of the fluid just wish i could get at that filter. We're at 91,000 miles and a few minor problems! 3 or 4 times over the years the center screen system didn't start up completely so I'd have to shut the car off and walk away for 5 minutes to let all the computers shut down and then restart. My passenger sliding door still doesn't want to open say 30-40% of the time when you hit the button on the outside, it just beeps but you can open it by hand just fine and then it will always close with the button or manually. Did have the hood replaced for free when the front driver corner by the headlight, started to rust through from the inside. had one low beam headlight burn out. Add maybe a cup of anti-freeze to the coolant over the years. First set of tires were Falken lasted 45000 miles, second set was Uniroyal Tiger Paw I think these will end up somewhere around 55 to 60,000 miles. Next i might go with Michelin CrossClimate2 CUV I have the 20" factory rims. Recently the front end is getting a little squeaky when I'm sitting still starting a turn or just turning the wheels I'll have to look into it, hope its not something starting to wear out, theres nothing to grease anymore. Another YT channel Scotty car repair said to try AT 205 reseal you can put it in a spray bottle and spray it on rubber parts to keep them soft and also in the fluids of the engine and trans, but many people have said don't add it until you have a problem or leak. I've also noticed mostly when its cold the transmission is starting to shift harsh from 1st to 2nd, after a few minutes warming up its fine again. Also when it i first drive for a little while I can just barely feel and hear what sounds and feels like the cv joints are getting a tiny bit loose, as i just gently touch the gas and or get off the gas to maintain speed I its like an old u-joint that has a little play it in as it releases and grabs at the other half of itself. Oh and one last thing (sorry for such a long post) the front seats started losing a little bit of their color from getting in and out of the car, that started at maybe 18,000 miles! Crazy but the dealer and Chrysler both refused to do anything about it, hard to see down by the outside edge of the driver seat and center of the passenger seat. Recently the passenger seat is starting to tare in the center I'm guessing because of all the little holds in the material to let the air blow through. Thought you'd like to read about what someone else has gone through with theirs. Thanks and enjoy!
Great information, thanks for sharing. We can all learn from each other’s experiences.
I’ve noticed a burnt coolant smell lately and suspect the oil filter housing/oil cooler is leaking. It’s still under a certified preowned powertrain warranty so I’m going to take it in and see what they say. I’ll make a video on it 👍.
Great thanks
You are welcome
Really nice video. Appreciate it !!
You’re welcome, thanks for checking in 👍
Initially my car makes grinding sound while braking but sound disappears after little bit of driving just 10 to 20 meters...what does it mean....???
Does you car sit for a few say between drives? If that is the case, it’s likely some corrosion buildup on the rotors. Once the corrosion is worn off the brakes quiet down.
Thank you 🙏 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Welcome 😊
The myth of "warped rotors" has long been dismissed (by any non-money grabbing mechanic, you can Google it and see for yourself) and even proven wrong.
Its a solid piece of steel, nearly 1/2in thick, being pressed by your brake pedal. You're not going to be able to "warp" your rotors. They could perhaps use a refinishing but your rotors are not "warped" or mis-shapen. That just does not happen to a solid break rotor, unless youre really using some cheap-ass, bottom of the barrel rotors and you install the rears on the front or something.
Good thoughts, but your overall theory is incorrect.
I agree that mechanical stresses are not deforming the rotors, but you are not accounting for the thermal stresses.
There are two mechanisms that causes permanent deformation of the rotors, one happens quickly the other takes time. 99% of rotors are made from cast iron which is important to this discussion.
The first happens to low cost rotors that are not properly heat treated after casting. The casting process creates residual stresses. These rotors can deform as quickly as one heat cycle. Heat treating is a very expensive process that is the first thing manufacturers skip to cut costs. Also, there is no easy way to inspect the part before installation to determine if heat treating was done.
The second cause happens over time but it is still a result of heat cycles. Cast iron, like all metals, has a crystalline atomic structure. This means that the atoms have a defined arrangement. Within this arrangement there are always missing atoms, called dislocations. At elevated temperatures, the atoms move around and hence the dislocations also move. Over many heat cycles the dislocations tend to group up together enough to actually change the dimensions of the rotor.
LUk3 - You are wrong on so many levels and also I can tell you never race. Rotor warping is pretty common when brakes are used extensively, especially when they do lost of heat cycles. Which on 2.3 ton car can happen on decent downhills for example.
Thanks i tired of getting rip off thank you man 😂👍
Glad I could help. Thanks for leaving a comment.
I mean it
What if when you put your brakes on, it pulsates a bit?? Is that a warning? Thanks!
I guess that depends on what pulsating you are feeling. If it’s a lub dub that increases/decrease with speed then it is warped rotors. If it’s high speed pulsating from your anti lock system then it is something in the controls or hardware of the ABS.
@@TheLawnEngineer Feels like ,or could be the anti-brake is getting weak? Its Suttle.Thanks.I am just going to keep an eye on it, May need a brake job soon if it gets worst,.
@@Mike-bb1li it sounds like slightly warped rotors, as you said keep and eye on it 👍
@@TheLawnEngineer Thanks!
nice vid, only thing u missed was retracting the piston and making sure the slide pins move freely.
Great point!
When you jack up your Pacifica, do you use the pinch weld? Or the flat spot where the arrow is? My bottle jack is too tall to fit under pinch weld, but will fit in flat spot. Thanks
I use the pinch weld by the arrow. 👍
@@TheLawnEngineer k thanks
3:00
yes
💪👍🤝🙏
thanks
"This disc is the rotor". Also in England "this disc is the brake disc"
Thanks for translating into the Queen’s English 👍
@@TheLawnEngineer King
@@YorkshireD1 oh yeah, my bad. Long live the king 🤴
@@TheLawnEngineer 😂😉
and the boot is what you put on the foot.
your banga isnt worth 500 bucks wth u smokin joe
I agree
Say what????
@@dhyde9207exactly