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I used to make nuckles (basically what the brake system and rotor shield and tire goes on ) for a few carbrands on a cnc lathe and oem parts are made to high standards and tight tollerences. Cheap brands cut every corner and it will cost you sooner over later.
Another way to extend the life of your brakes is to begin to ease off the gas when coming up to a red light or a stop before stopping. Let your engine do the braking. I never understood people who are in such a rush only to stop at a red light . When you drive long enough you’ll learn when you need to brake and when you don’t need to. I also use this technique when exiting onto a ramp off the highway. Of course only when appropriate as not all situations allow for engine breaking. I speak from experience as a truck driver.
Do most of my driving in NYC. Streets are super busy and using your technique will make city stop in traffic desaster. But I completely understand rolling easy to the red light when you are in suburban and there are absolutely no cars behind
Yup you are totally right. It's all in the timing. Look ahead and what ever you do is don't tailgate. When I see someone tailgating I even make more room cause thats how accidents happen.
Note for clarification: 76 ft. lbs torque is not for every vehicle. Some are less and some are more. Check your owners manual for the proper spec for your vehicle.
I don’t think many much lower is there? Also 105 ft. Lbs sounds high to me for a caliper bracket, but I do agree u want em tight I’d guess its closer to 70 but I’m to lazy to look up.
I love watching your videos. I'm a 57 year old woman and I still do a lot of my own car repairs. My husband will does what I can't. He would do them all, but I'm weird I enjoy doing it myself. My favorite place to shop used to be a place called U-Pull-it. I got a lot a my car parts there. When I'm ready to junk a vehicle, I sell it to them.
It’s amazing how a backyard mechanic (certified I’m sure) with no LIFTS can get this far ! All his work on the ground ! Way to go ! Been a subscriber since about 2017 and must’ve watched over a 100 videos!
He's a retired certified mechanic...And, he's %100 correct about Toyota OEM rotors. Just make sure to change your pads regularly, and they last forever!
Advics is the manufacture for toyota rotors also advics rotors are made in usa and i recommend using them with Akebono pads as akebono pads are also made in usa
8:10 I am surprised that you didn't clean and re-grease (or replace and grease) the caliper slide pins. That is very important, since a sticky, and or rusty caliper slide pin will cause un-even brake pad wear, and/or rubbing brake pads in short order.
He also didn't replace or at least clean the brake hardware on which the brake pads slide back and forth. That hub was also cleaned insufficiently. I'm a brakes technician for an European company that makes brake components and Scotty made a lot of mistakes doing this brake job. Don't do it at home this way guys.
7:54 PAD CLIPS... that the brake pad ears fit into should be cleaned with brake cleaner spray and an old brush (or soft brass wire brush) to get the burnt-on road grime off, which will allow the pads to move freely and prevent brake drag. ALSO grease the caliper pins to make sure the whole assembly can slide and not make the brakes drag. Good video 👍
@@jmabs5096 missed three;you need an special tool to push the caliper piston,or you can tear the piston seal and dent the surface,that’s shady mechanic crap.
@@88fieroformula people will learn that also 😂 good catch. But no you don't unless you have electronic parking brake rears with fenic pistons thst need to be rotated in with a tool to make it easy. Otherwise I just use the old pad, and some kind of large pliers. No need for special tool for pushing in the piston. Heck I used to use the lug nuts and pliers!
Scotty for us driveway mechanics using floor jacks and Jack stands it's best to slightly loosen the lugs when the car is still on the ground. This way there is less chance of the car falling of the Jack and stands as your fighting to take off the lugs.
It wont' matter either way if you use an impact wrench, but if you don't have one you definitely want to loosen the lug nuts with the car on the ground.
I enjoy a lot of Scotty Kilmer's videos. On this one though I have a couple nit-picky complaints. One, he didn't grease the slide pin bolts, and he tightened the lugnuts in a circle instead of a star pattern.
i’m no mechanic, but i was going to say the same. those slide pins certainly wont last another 15 years without being cleaned up and with a fresh coat of grease
He also made the HUGE mistake of pushing the filthy brake fluid from the caliper back into the system when he compressed the cyl. That fluid is old, dirty, hydrated, and has been heat cycled 100,000 times. You should crack the bleeder, and bleed it out when compressing the cyl. On some vehicles, pushing that fluid back up into the system can cause huge damage to the ABS system.
@@AquaticLogic cars have 2 year change interval for brake fluid so no need to do it always with the break job. Except if those happen to be at the same time
Might as well get some new SIL-GLYDE in to the caliper slide pin bores. Should be SOP anytime the caliper comes off. Those slide pins can make or break a good brake job.
I worked as a chauffeur/mechanic for 25 years. I noticed that in order to extend the life of the rotors it is helpful to use a long thin screwdriver and scrap the corrosion, accumulated dirt and brake dust out of each of the vent holes of the rotors. When they get clogged with debris they cannot vent properly and will overheat and warp quicker.
My grandfather taught me to NEVER go cheap on tires, steering, suspension or brake parts. Bottom line: It sucks if your car doesn't GO, It REALLY sucks if it won't STOP or you can't control it. Many people will blow way more money on their stereo system than brakes. Scary!
You literally are a Saint of a human being. Thank you for being one of the few true honest men out there who isn't concerned mostly about just themselves. I bow to you sir 🙇♂️
When I do mine, I turn the steering wheel all the way to either side which gives you more room, improved vision and a better angle to get leverage on the bolts.
@@crimzonr9371 you're not allowed, we copyrighted the idea, its our intellectual property, so now only ne and other people who thought of it on there own prior to 2 hours ago can do it
I had to do this during my road trip over last Christmas. My car was used and I had had my new rotors and brake pads in the back just in case... as soon as I got to my destination 10 hours later, I heard metal-on-metal. Having already done the rear drums, I have to say, disc brakes are much, much easier to work with. I made sure I re-greased the sliding pins after cleaning them off. That was an important step.
hi scotty i have a 2016 mazda3 and for the first time i bought the akebono brake pad and it install like a breeze and the stopping power is excellent thank you for the advice and keep up the good work for us who are not mechanics and tire to be rip off by supposed mechanics
One thing I learned about nuts and bolts under the car is that you almost always have to soak things heavily in WD-40 before anything will break free. Just a little rust or corrosion can lock those things in place. Way back when I was a teenager in high school or in my very early 20s in college is that my friends and myself would often go to junk yards to get parts. They always fit and we got them for a fraction of what they were new.
Sometimes if you use a socket wrench to play tighten, it will come loose as you untighten. But if the nut is for a 3/8", don't use a 1/2" socket as you will just tear it off.
I agree Scotty I tried Napa’s best out of 3 levels, started shaking first time I needed hard braking, returned them went to GM and got oem rotors problem solved. On brakes use the car manufacturers rotors
I'm so glad Scotty that u are doing your videos. I'm no mechanic. I'm learning the DIY stuff. Dad passed away which I should have paid attention to his work. Now I got u. God bless u sir.
1. If you have to tap in the brake pads it's too tight and won't slide/float appropriately. Clean the clips, clean the brake pad ears. I've even had to grind down the width of the brake pad ears a time or two. 2. Don't hang the caliper from the brake line. Make a steel hanger; I save the handles from broken buckets for this purpose. 3. Sometimes retracting the caliper piston is more involved than shown here. Check out videos specific to your model. 3a. Also a good time to bleed some old fluid from the brake line. Thoroughly review instructions for this online. 4. Learn how to do this early in life. Save money and rest assured the job is done correctly. Don't wait until you're on social security and think you're going to figure out how - at least not without an experienced mentor present.
Experienced mentors don't exist for a lot of people. It's all so difficult to find the correct information. So many wrong people. Even this guy is wrong apparently
I've been using Centric Premium rotors and ceramic pads for 8 years now. I find they last about 6-7 years (100-120,000km for me). I'm on my second set on a 2011 Ram 1500. Factory brakes lasted 4 years, Centrics replaced them at around 70,000km. I just hit 210,000km and just installed my second set of Centrics all around.
Scotty you forgot to put anitseize compound on the hub and you should clean and lube the slide pins with synthetic pin grease. About Toyota Rotors...2013 Tacoma I had, the rotors would warp. I had to upgrade to MSPORT slotted and drilled rotors and went with HAWK pads.
Thank you for another great episode. To go along with your advice NOT to use the impact wrench to install wheels, ALL tire vendors use them, and NEVER tighten by hand using a torque wrench. The result: warped rotors on a new Honda Pilot in for a routine tire rotation at around 10K. Oh, yeah, they used the "torque limiting extensions" all right -- what a joke!
I agree with you but my 20 Tundra with a steel rim, recommended torque is 144 ft lbs....I go with 150 and I use the electric impact because cranking the torque wrench is too hard on my old and worn out arms. I do check with torque wrench tho.
I’m trying to change my front brake pads on my car, the tire wrench won’t break em loose! I take the car to the tire shop thinking I’m just weak, they use 3 impact wrenches and none of them can break my lugs loose. DO NOT use an impact wrench to put on lugs.
I wish my rotors came off that easy. I've only had a few that did. Most of them are seized pretty badly so I have to use a gear puller to pull them off. I've tried using screws, a dead blow hammer, or an air hammer, but the gear puller seems to work best. On my last brake job, I used anti-seize on my hubs and I'll have to see how that works out in the future.
A thing most people forget is forgetting to lubricate the slide pins they get dry overtime and prevents the caliper from floating properly I've seen lots of problems with breaks due to people not lubricating the caliper pins
In most cases the disc's are not warped. They have a variation in their thickness and this can usually be cured by a skim. Scottys right though. Go with best quality you can get and often OEM spares are best for this. Make sure the disc thickness is above minimum after skimming.
8 miles south of Boston - The salted roads here cause my calipers to freeze up every 2 - 3 years so I replace the pads while I am re-lubing/replacing them. To prevent my car (Crown Vic) from rusting I spray the undercarriage with Woolswax & Fluidfilm.
Scotty is right! I have always bought mid range rotors, not the cheapest, not the most expensive. My cars are 22 & 25 yrs. old, so from a $$$ perspective, I'm not gonna pour "LOTS OF $$$" into them. From a safety perspective, I don't buy the cheapest of "ANY PART." 😲😲😲
*_Guilty as charged !!!_* I just replaced the pads on my 2012 Honda Accord and put Akebono brake pads you touted I believe as the best. I didn't know what rotors to use so I went with what my local parts store recommended and just like you said in a few thousand miles the rotors are warped. So, I was just about to purchase Brembo rotors and new Akebono pads but after seeing this now I'm not so sure. Scotty is it better to buy new OEM rotors from Honda and buy the OEM pads to match or is just as good or better to use the Akebono pads. *_Thank you so much for all your information. It has saved me lots of money !!!_*
Scotty, you should have checked the brake fuel reservoir, because if the old pads were worn the level of the brake fluid would have dropped and the driver would have topped it up. So when you press in the travelled piston, you'd have the brake fluid overflowing.
I also do a minor "bleed." Getting the dirty fluid at the bottom of the line at the caliper out before pushing the piston in. I've bought cheap AC Delco rotors before AWFUL. WARPED within 5,000 miles.
Was always taught to release bleeders a little before compressing the piston, or you could damage the system. Knew a guy that would take the cap off the master cylinder and just let brake fluid flow out the top. It make a mess, but he would just spray it all down with brake cleaner.
@@randalmorris1772 Pressing in the piston or on the brake pedal would be similar, just opposite force. So it would unlikely to damage the brake system. Opening the bleeders before pressing in the piston would also definitely cause unnecessary mess
@@franklinchinquee4293 You had best open the bleeds before compressing the piston if you don't want to be replacing the ABS system. Use a pan under the bleed screw to catch fluid.
When I have to go as far as pulling the brake rotors, I usually will pull out and clean the wheel speed sensors as well since they're right there in the hub.
Scotty, your still not re-greasing the caliper slides. And what about torquing the wheel nuts in the correct order, as in the star pattern? I see your still not accustom to working on cars in the rust belt. If you were, you'd also have to clean out the rust that builds up under those stainless steel bake pad anti-rattle clips. Maybe even put a little grease between the stainless clips and the caliper bracket. Those are the extra details that make your brake job last. If you have to tap your brake pads into place, then they may end up sticking a few years down the road.
@@shellysdopevids6988 Each caliper should have two sliders. They are between the bracket and the bolt that holds the caliper on. There should be a rubber bellow that keeps dirt and water out but after a few years in the rust belt, water makes its way in past the bellow which may need some rust removal and resealed with some hi-temp caliper grease.
I did my front rotors and brakes on my 99 LS400 super simple job. Same as you my new rotors have cross etching and I also opted for akebono brakes as well as new hardware. She brakes so smoothly now, stops on a dime, and no more steering wheel vibration. Can confirm everything this man has said is true.
I replace everything.. but I use cross drill rotors but cheapo ones.. pads I get from oem honda wholesaler out of Arizona and yes genuine honda parts. I also use power tools for removing parts .. and torque when finished..
WHEN I DO DISC ON FRONT...I COLLAPSE THE CALIPER PISTON WITH A FLAT TOOL AND A SLOT SCREWDRIVER(flat blade) TO PUSH ON DISC PADS ONLY...NEVER PUT A TOOL ON CUP...IT CAN RIP OR POKE A HOLE IN THE CUP SEAL...ONLY BETWEEN THE PAD AND ROTOR...NO DAMAGE EITHER...THEN PUT NEW PADS IN AND RE INSTALL CALIPER MAKING SURE YOU CLEAN GUIDE BOLTS AND LUBE CONTACTING SURFACES OF ALL PARTS...NO HANG UPS...PLEASE...PUMP THOSE BRAKES WITH ENGINE RUNNING...TEST DRIVE...DONE...YOUR THE BEST SIR SCOTTY...OUTSTANDING CAR COLLECTION!!!
My first mechanic job was replacing the brakes on a 62 Impala. I didn't pay attention to all the parts and how they went and I took them all off at the same time...(drum brakes) Needless to say, I had to go to a neighbor who also had an Impala and after much begging he let me take his wheels off to look at his brakes. I was 15 YO and that was my first car. Learned my lesson.
I always appreciate your videos because you are so thorough and give explanations as to what you can expect if it is done wrong or you try to take shortcuts. Very useful information, I am cost conscious but I do know that if you do it wrong by buying cheap when it counts it will cost you more money. I like that you make the differentiations where needed. We need to know where you can get by and where you cant!!!! Thanks so much!! Keep up the Awesome work!
Those caliper bolts can be terrible to get off. A simple trick I figured out, which is really easy, is to put the car jack under the socket wrench to break them loose. Works every time. Of course, the weight of the car will have to be supported by the stands or you need a second jack. I’ve done the hammer trick before, but sometimes that still doesn’t work.
When I want rotors for my Toyota, I only buy 'TOYOTA Genuine Parts' (usually from the local Toyota dealership). You've have to be nuts to buy aftermarket brake parts that are not the same as the vehicle you are driving, when your life depends on your brake working or not.
You do a star pattern when tightening the lug nuts so you don't wrap the new rotors. and always put the wheel back on the same lug nuts Mark the lug nut that lines up with the valve stem.
As a mechanic another way i keep my customers from coming back for a brake job for a long time is i change the calipers along with each brake job i do even if the old caliper is good and i do a brake flush as well
@@88fieroformula He's done far worse. I stopped watching his videos for over a year simply because I saw him run a wire through the firewall, but BETWEEN THE GROMMET AND METAL instead of through the grommet. Absolute fire hazard, this guy.
@@goodisnipr I haven’t seen yet Scotty working in an engine like overhaul or rebuilding a trans,is all talk and using social media to make money but is our fault to be watching his channel instead to grab a book or get hands on fixing or breaking something don’t matter is how we learn.
it doesn't matter so much with wheel nuts. but with head gasket jobs and similar jobs its very important to tighten bolts and nuts in a star/opposite sort of way😊
He’s using a torque wrench so it doesn’t matter because they’ll all be tightened the same, if you’re free hand tightening them with the L wrench then the star pattern is the best way to go just so you can get everything as close to being the same tightness
I notice Chrysler has this problem with this. It breaks my heart being a Mopar fan, but Chrysler brakes when new are below par. Heck it's just cheap. Scotty thank you I have to do drum brakes and you made a great video on it.
Easy job after watching your video. Great job Scotty. I will do mine next time cause I bought the best pads and discs already. Shld be a very easy job now I know how straight forward it is and no more impact wrench for me putting rims back on then.
Slide pins..... Absolutely. Plus you can use a large c clamp to press the caliper back before you take it off. Put one end of the clamp against the outer pad and the other end against the back of the caliper. Turn the clamp slowly. It's lot of fluid and a tiny brake line. And why don't you turn the wheel to the outside so you can get better access to the mounting bolts since you have both wheels off the ground.
Hey Scotty, good video However you didn't mention the Brake pad sensors? Do they apply to Toyota's ? Also instead of making it so difficult why don't you turn the wheel on the side your working to the left/right all the way to make access to the caliper mounting bracket easier? Just suggesting.
Buying new rear rotors for my LS 430 next week. I had oem lexus put on front a couple years ago. I was mildly considering aftermarket, but ya, it’s lexus all the way.
When replacing rotors check brembo, they have smooth basic rotors cheaper than parts store crap rotors. Put set on my old twinturbo z and rotor warpage went away, they make expensive big brake kitd many racers use brembo brakes they have very cost effective basic rotors
I never used to mess with brakes because of the asbestos hazard. Now that I'm retired I avoid this stuff because of my back. I love watching you work Scotty!💖
I would imagine that different vehicles have different torque settings. I torque the lug nuts on my 02 Mustang and 14 Xterra to 100 ft-lbs. I don't know what the caliper nuts and all should be torqued to though but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
Great video Scotty. 1 question though...I didn't hear you say to take of reservoir cap for brake fluid. Are you not suppose to always take off brake fluid reservoir cap? An is it before taking off caliper or is it right before pressing caliper back in when reassembling? I did this before reassembly however it was really full almost overflow. Mechanic said it's so that you don't have to bleed brakes afterwards. I do agree totally with peoples choice in parts. There is alot of cheap crude on the market in all categories of products but there is also good resources to know which is right for yr car. So people do your homework on your individual vehicle. Thank you Mr Scotty
I change the rotors with the pads, since they wear together, anyway. So, if I only get 5 years out of my aftermarket rotors (which is how long my brake pads last), that's okay with me. I have a 4 ft galvanized pipe I sometimes use, to slide over the handle of my 18" breaker bar, I prefer over trying to hit an elusive handle with a hammer.
I recommend NOT using channel locks for pushing back pistons. I did that once on my daughters 2010 Prius and ended up chipping a small chunk from these cast aluminum pistons. I forgot that I had a special tool (less than $10) for doing this job. I used the special tool on the other side and that did the trick.
I noticed that you don't opened the cap for the break oil under the hood... why not ?... I heard that if you don't do it then air can get to the lines.. Is that right?
Should you not open the brake fluid reservoir cap, before you push back the pistons ? I was always told if you don't, you can risk affecting the seals on the master cylinder ? Not sure how true that is 🤷♂️🤔
As an tech at alfa romeo I can 1000% agree with scotty! Ditch that $500 brake set and buy our $956 oem brake set. Thank you scotty! I can already smell a bigger tool box coming in from this video 😇
Years ago, Scotty, I did brakes on my f150. Drum brakes. Paid $45 each at the nappa auto parts. Drum read in casting, " made in taiwan. Next time, I bought 2new ones again, marked same way.Both worked the same......Oh yeah,...the2nd pair was $30 each, from JC Whitney. Same drums. All Whitneys steering and chassis ball joints, etc, were made By MOOG....
Very good instructional video !! I do have a question though . I couldn't help but notice , that you didn't go " cross corner " when you tightened the lugs ? Good afternoon Scotty .. Gubs
How crazy is this I’m a Maintenance tech just started in the industry too and I dealt with my first set of warped rotors today. Lesson of the day today was test drive when you do a cvi just because it looks fine doesn’t mean it is
I've recently bought Textar discs and pads to do mine and my wife's. The great Edd China did a few videos with their products so I assume they're good!
When I do mine, I turn the steering wheel all the way to either side which gives you more room, improved vision and a better angle to get leverage on the bolts.
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I used to make nuckles (basically what the brake system and rotor shield and tire goes on ) for a few carbrands on a cnc lathe and oem parts are made to high standards and tight tollerences. Cheap brands cut every corner and it will cost you sooner over later.
Hey Scotty what’s the best rotors for a 2014 GMC Terrain FWD 106000 miles
Another way to extend the life of your brakes is to begin to ease off the gas when coming up to a red light or a stop before stopping. Let your engine do the braking. I never understood people who are in such a rush only to stop at a red light . When you drive long enough you’ll learn when you need to brake and when you don’t need to. I also use this technique when exiting onto a ramp off the highway. Of course only when appropriate as not all situations allow for engine breaking. I speak from experience as a truck driver.
Agree from a fellow truck driver.
I do the same
Do most of my driving in NYC. Streets are super busy and using your technique will make city stop in traffic desaster. But I completely understand rolling easy to the red light when you are in suburban and there are absolutely no cars behind
When you have a manual trans the vehicle starts slowing down as soon as you take your foot off the gas.
Yup you are totally right. It's all in the timing. Look ahead and what ever you do is don't tailgate. When I see someone tailgating I even make more room cause thats how accidents happen.
Note for clarification: 76 ft. lbs torque is not for every vehicle. Some are less and some are more. Check your owners manual for the proper spec for your vehicle.
I don’t think many much lower is there? Also 105 ft. Lbs sounds high to me for a caliper bracket, but I do agree u want em tight I’d guess its closer to 70 but I’m to lazy to look up.
@@weekileaks23 I suspected as well, book says 79 lbft.
@@patrickzambori473 so I had to go look my Mazdaspeeds up. 86. I been doing 100 for 13 years. I don’t know where I got 100. Oops😄
I was way over torque ing before I got a torque wrench
Owners manual??
I got some land in Florida to sell you!
I love watching your videos. I'm a 57 year old woman and I still do a lot of my own car repairs. My husband will does what I can't. He would do them all, but I'm weird I enjoy doing it myself. My favorite place to shop used to be a place called U-Pull-it. I got a lot a my car parts there. When I'm ready to junk a vehicle, I sell it to them.
Scotty : "I'm feeling kinda lazy"
*Continues to make 5 videos everyday."
Legend
It’s amazing how a backyard mechanic (certified I’m sure) with no LIFTS can get this far ! All his work on the ground ! Way to go ! Been a subscriber since about 2017 and must’ve watched over a 100 videos!
He's a retired certified mechanic...And, he's %100 correct about Toyota OEM rotors. Just make sure to change your pads regularly, and they last forever!
He's not backyard, he's been doing it for 50+years
@@MF-rtard89 I know he’s a mechanic for 50 years. My point is he does all his work w/o a car lift
@@stephendibari5010 yeah that's what keeps him limber
@@stephendibari5010 He's doing it how 99.999% of DIYers have to do it
Advics is the manufacture for toyota rotors also advics rotors are made in usa and i recommend using them with Akebono pads as akebono pads are also made in usa
8:10 I am surprised that you didn't clean and re-grease (or replace and grease) the caliper slide pins. That is very important, since a sticky, and or rusty caliper slide pin will cause un-even brake pad wear, and/or rubbing brake pads in short order.
Car wash will clean that off I learned that the hard way on my brand new 2019 Camry SE
it will also kill your mpg if your brakes are dragging
Agree. I also pull out, clean and re-grease the pins. Love scotty but his lack of torquing and not crossing on the lug nuts had me cringing.
His car is old I doubt he care about that
He also didn't replace or at least clean the brake hardware on which the brake pads slide back and forth. That hub was also cleaned insufficiently. I'm a brakes technician for an European company that makes brake components and Scotty made a lot of mistakes doing this brake job. Don't do it at home this way guys.
Everybody needs a Scotty in their lives.
7:54 PAD CLIPS... that the brake pad ears fit into should be cleaned with brake cleaner spray and an old brush (or soft brass wire brush) to get the burnt-on road grime off, which will allow the pads to move freely and prevent brake drag.
ALSO grease the caliper pins to make sure the whole assembly can slide and not make the brakes drag.
Good video 👍
I wouldn't say great, scotty missed thoes two crucial parts.
@@jmabs5096 missed three;you need an special tool to push the caliper piston,or you can tear the piston seal and dent the surface,that’s shady mechanic crap.
@@88fieroformula people will learn that also 😂 good catch. But no you don't unless you have electronic parking brake rears with fenic pistons thst need to be rotated in with a tool to make it easy. Otherwise I just use the old pad, and some kind of large pliers. No need for special tool for pushing in the piston. Heck I used to use the lug nuts and pliers!
@@88fieroformula i have used a large open end wrench stuck between the old pads to wedge them out, or even a C-clamp... for decades.
No problemo.
@@jmabs5096 brake
Scotty for us driveway mechanics using floor jacks and Jack stands it's best to slightly loosen the lugs when the car is still on the ground. This way there is less chance of the car falling of the Jack and stands as your fighting to take off the lugs.
Ya you are right but he probably didn't think of that because he was using an impact tool to loosen the bolt.
Chock the wheels too.
@@travisbenson9127 Yep, the impact will take them off. If doing it the hard way by hand then loosen on ground.
It wont' matter either way if you use an impact wrench, but if you don't have one you definitely want to loosen the lug nuts with the car on the ground.
I enjoy a lot of Scotty Kilmer's videos. On this one though I have a couple nit-picky complaints. One, he didn't grease the slide pin bolts, and he tightened the lugnuts in a circle instead of a star pattern.
i’m no mechanic, but i was going to say the same. those slide pins certainly wont last another 15 years without being cleaned up and with a fresh coat of grease
He also made the HUGE mistake of pushing the filthy brake fluid from the caliper back into the system when he compressed the cyl. That fluid is old, dirty, hydrated, and has been heat cycled 100,000 times. You should crack the bleeder, and bleed it out when compressing the cyl. On some vehicles, pushing that fluid back up into the system can cause huge damage to the ABS system.
@@AquaticLogic cars have 2 year change interval for brake fluid so no need to do it always with the break job. Except if those happen to be at the same time
@@eemelilohvansuu3612There is no service interval for brake fluid. You’re supposed to test it and see if it needs changing.
Might as well get some new SIL-GLYDE in to the caliper slide pin bores. Should be SOP anytime the caliper comes off.
Those slide pins can make or break a good brake job.
I worked as a chauffeur/mechanic for 25 years. I noticed that in order to extend the life of the rotors it is helpful to use a long thin screwdriver and scrap the corrosion, accumulated dirt and brake dust out of each of the vent holes of the rotors. When they get clogged with debris they cannot vent properly and will overheat and warp quicker.
My grandfather taught me to NEVER go cheap on tires, steering, suspension or brake parts. Bottom line: It sucks if your car doesn't GO, It REALLY sucks if it won't STOP or you can't control it. Many people will blow way more money on their stereo system than brakes. Scary!
What DID he tell you to go cheap on?
Grandpa was correct !
You literally are a Saint of a human being. Thank you for being one of the few true honest men out there who isn't concerned mostly about just themselves. I bow to you sir 🙇♂️
His mother was a virgin
When I do mine, I turn the steering wheel all the way to either side which gives you more room, improved vision and a better angle to get leverage on the bolts.
Same
Best way!
Great idea .. Gonna try that when I change mine .. thanx for the advice
@@crimzonr9371 you're not allowed, we copyrighted the idea, its our intellectual property, so now only ne and other people who thought of it on there own prior to 2 hours ago can do it
@@kiyosenl.3889 ummm ... ok .... haven't seen that patent yet lol
I use Toyota Rotors and Akebono brake pads...Thanks Scotty Boy!
Always grease your slide pins (bolts) before reassembling the caliper. This is a major cause of early failures of your rotors and pads.
Because of you Scotty, I saved a bunch of money doing my brakes!
I had to do this during my road trip over last Christmas. My car was used and I had had my new rotors and brake pads in the back just in case... as soon as I got to my destination 10 hours later, I heard metal-on-metal. Having already done the rear drums, I have to say, disc brakes are much, much easier to work with. I made sure I re-greased the sliding pins after cleaning them off. That was an important step.
hi scotty i have a 2016 mazda3 and for the first time i bought the akebono brake pad and it install like a breeze and the stopping power is excellent thank you for the advice and keep up the good work for us who are not mechanics and tire to be rip off by supposed mechanics
Akebono brakes and my 94 Celica. A match make in Heaven!
Akebono brakes
@@sirdraco7961 Glad you can spell!
one can always "make book" on Scotty's good news on the pads he's been recommending this brand for years.
What kind of rotors?
@@izzacbeaner Genuine oem
One thing I learned about nuts and bolts under the car is that you almost always have to soak things heavily in WD-40 before anything will break free. Just a little rust or corrosion can lock those things in place. Way back when I was a teenager in high school or in my very early 20s in college is that my friends and myself would often go to junk yards to get parts. They always fit and we got them for a fraction of what they were new.
Sometimes if you use a socket wrench to play tighten, it will come loose as you untighten. But if the nut is for a 3/8", don't use a 1/2" socket as you will just tear it off.
I agree Scotty I tried Napa’s best out of 3 levels, started shaking first time I needed hard braking, returned them went to GM and got oem rotors problem solved. On brakes use the car manufacturers rotors
I'm so glad Scotty that u are doing your videos. I'm no mechanic. I'm learning the DIY stuff. Dad passed away which I should have paid attention to his work. Now I got u. God bless u sir.
1. If you have to tap in the brake pads it's too tight and won't slide/float appropriately. Clean the clips, clean the brake pad ears. I've even had to grind down the width of the brake pad ears a time or two.
2. Don't hang the caliper from the brake line. Make a steel hanger; I save the handles from broken buckets for this purpose.
3. Sometimes retracting the caliper piston is more involved than shown here. Check out videos specific to your model.
3a. Also a good time to bleed some old fluid from the brake line. Thoroughly review instructions for this online.
4. Learn how to do this early in life. Save money and rest assured the job is done correctly. Don't wait until you're on social security and think you're going to figure out how - at least not without an experienced mentor present.
Experienced mentors don't exist for a lot of people. It's all so difficult to find the correct information. So many wrong people. Even this guy is wrong apparently
You must always check, clean and lubricate the caliper slider pins. A stuck pin will cause all sorts of problems.
I've been using Centric Premium rotors and ceramic pads for 8 years now. I find they last about 6-7 years (100-120,000km for me). I'm on my second set on a 2011 Ram 1500. Factory brakes lasted 4 years, Centrics replaced them at around 70,000km. I just hit 210,000km and just installed my second set of Centrics all around.
Nice. I just got them from rock auto. Glad to hear they faired well for you. Question why are my new rotors have a ring around the edge?
Centric stoptech or powerstop same company, cheaper than the autostore. Zimmerman for euro
Lube the caliper anchor pins so the caliper can slide when the brakes are applied.
Scotty you forgot to put anitseize compound on the hub and you should clean and lube the slide pins with synthetic pin grease. About Toyota Rotors...2013 Tacoma I had, the rotors would warp. I had to upgrade to MSPORT slotted and drilled rotors and went with HAWK pads.
Mr Scotty, use a paint marker to mark your lug pattern on the lug nut area on your universal rims. Easy to see how they go on then💪
Thank you for another great episode. To go along with your advice NOT to use the impact wrench to install wheels, ALL tire vendors use them, and NEVER tighten by hand using a torque wrench. The result: warped rotors on a new Honda Pilot in for a routine tire rotation at around 10K. Oh, yeah, they used the "torque limiting extensions" all right -- what a joke!
I agree with you but my 20 Tundra with a steel rim, recommended torque is 144 ft lbs....I go with 150 and I use the electric impact because cranking the torque wrench is too hard on my old and worn out arms. I do check with torque wrench tho.
@YourMotherRobbedSpermBanks that can happen just by driving the car
I started going to Discount Tire a few years back and the guys there always use a torque wrench to finish seating the lug nuts...
@@jamesvandamme7786 Now that's tight!!! I assume Mavis is a tire/wheel franchise? I would find another shop to buy my tires...
I’m trying to change my front brake pads on my car, the tire wrench won’t break em loose! I take the car to the tire shop thinking I’m just weak, they use 3 impact wrenches and none of them can break my lugs loose. DO NOT use an impact wrench to put on lugs.
I wish my rotors came off that easy. I've only had a few that did. Most of them are seized pretty badly so I have to use a gear puller to pull them off. I've tried using screws, a dead blow hammer, or an air hammer, but the gear puller seems to work best. On my last brake job, I used anti-seize on my hubs and I'll have to see how that works out in the future.
A thing most people forget is forgetting to lubricate the slide pins they get dry overtime and prevents the caliper from floating properly I've seen lots of problems with breaks due to people not lubricating the caliper pins
Lube with silicon brake grease. Not petroleum based grease.
Scotty is the type of guy to rev up his engine
Be more original with ur commenting. 3/10
And rev up your engine and do a burnout. 😆 🤣 😂
Hey Scott! I found if you push on the brake and then pull the parking brake sets it tighter! Love your show!
My crown Vic park brake separate from service brake.
Scotty loves his AKEBONO brake pads . I do too 👍
I also have a Toyota and it needs the front rotors. Thank you Scotty, gonna look into getting the factory rotors.
In most cases the disc's are not warped. They have a variation in their thickness and this can usually be cured by a skim. Scottys right though. Go with best quality you can get and often OEM spares are best for this. Make sure the disc thickness is above minimum after skimming.
8 miles south of Boston - The salted roads here cause my calipers to freeze up every 2 - 3 years so I replace the pads while I am re-lubing/replacing them. To prevent my car (Crown Vic) from rusting I spray the undercarriage with Woolswax & Fluidfilm.
Scotty is right! I have always bought mid range rotors, not the cheapest, not the most expensive. My cars are 22 & 25 yrs. old, so from a $$$ perspective, I'm not gonna pour "LOTS OF $$$" into them. From a safety perspective, I don't buy the cheapest of "ANY PART." 😲😲😲
*_Guilty as charged !!!_* I just replaced the pads on my 2012 Honda Accord and put Akebono brake pads you touted I believe as the best. I didn't know what rotors to use so I went with what my local parts store recommended and just like you said in a few thousand miles the rotors are warped. So, I was just about to purchase Brembo rotors and new Akebono pads but after seeing this now I'm not so sure. Scotty is it better to buy new OEM rotors from Honda and buy the OEM pads to match or is just as good or better to use the Akebono pads. *_Thank you so much for all your information. It has saved me lots of money !!!_*
Scotty, you should have checked the brake fuel reservoir, because if the old pads were worn the level of the brake fluid would have dropped and the driver would have topped it up. So when you press in the travelled piston, you'd have the brake fluid overflowing.
I also do a minor "bleed." Getting the dirty fluid at the bottom of the line at the caliper out before pushing the piston in.
I've bought cheap AC Delco rotors before AWFUL. WARPED within 5,000 miles.
Was always taught to release bleeders a little before compressing the piston, or you could damage the system. Knew a guy that would take the cap off the master cylinder and just let brake fluid flow out the top. It make a mess, but he would just spray it all down with brake cleaner.
@@randalmorris1772 Pressing in the piston or on the brake pedal would be similar, just opposite force. So it would unlikely to damage the brake system. Opening the bleeders before pressing in the piston would also definitely cause unnecessary mess
@@seanpop2886 CHEERS.
@@franklinchinquee4293 You had best open the bleeds before compressing the piston if you don't want to be replacing the ABS system. Use a pan under the bleed screw to catch fluid.
Bought a 2005 4Runner. It has some front end braking shimmy. I've been living with it and it's not bad, but this exact same job is on my To Do list
When I have to go as far as pulling the brake rotors, I usually will pull out and clean the wheel speed sensors as well since they're right there in the hub.
I love you Scotty you've been good to us after all these years! You go Scotty with all that auto mind machismo!
Scotty, it's easier to push the caliper piston back in threw the center hole of the caliper while it's still bolted on. But good video!
I leave the old pad on & use a giant C clamp... obviously not on the screw types!
That can break the pistons on newer cars not worth it
I use a C Clamp and an old brake pad.
Scotty, your still not re-greasing the caliper slides. And what about torquing the wheel nuts in the correct order, as in the star pattern? I see your still not accustom to working on cars in the rust belt. If you were, you'd also have to clean out the rust that builds up under those stainless steel bake pad anti-rattle clips. Maybe even put a little grease between the stainless clips and the caliper bracket. Those are the extra details that make your brake job last. If you have to tap your brake pads into place, then they may end up sticking a few years down the road.
Good talk
Triple bump... Re-grease is great but ATLEAST make sure they slide really nice. Scotty dropped the ball on this one
Exactly!!!! He wasn’t even gonna remove the caliper at first. Not a complete respectable job in my opinion.
Where or what exactly should I be looking for when you say caliper slides? I’ve seen many talk about caliper slides but I’m not sure what you mean.
@@shellysdopevids6988 Each caliper should have two sliders. They are between the bracket and the bolt that holds the caliper on. There should be a rubber bellow that keeps dirt and water out but after a few years in the rust belt, water makes its way in past the bellow which may need some rust removal and resealed with some hi-temp caliper grease.
I did my front rotors and brakes on my 99 LS400 super simple job. Same as you my new rotors have cross etching and I also opted for akebono brakes as well as new hardware. She brakes so smoothly now, stops on a dime, and no more steering wheel vibration. Can confirm everything this man has said is true.
I replace everything.. but I use cross drill rotors but cheapo ones.. pads I get from oem honda wholesaler out of Arizona and yes genuine honda parts. I also use power tools for removing parts .. and torque when finished..
WHEN I DO DISC ON FRONT...I COLLAPSE THE CALIPER PISTON WITH A FLAT TOOL AND A SLOT SCREWDRIVER(flat blade) TO PUSH ON DISC PADS ONLY...NEVER PUT A TOOL ON CUP...IT CAN RIP OR POKE A HOLE IN THE CUP SEAL...ONLY BETWEEN THE PAD AND ROTOR...NO DAMAGE EITHER...THEN PUT NEW PADS IN AND RE INSTALL CALIPER MAKING SURE YOU CLEAN GUIDE BOLTS AND LUBE CONTACTING SURFACES OF ALL PARTS...NO HANG UPS...PLEASE...PUMP THOSE BRAKES WITH ENGINE RUNNING...TEST DRIVE...DONE...YOUR THE BEST SIR SCOTTY...OUTSTANDING CAR COLLECTION!!!
My first mechanic job was replacing the brakes on a 62 Impala. I didn't pay attention to all the parts and how they went and I took them all off at the same time...(drum brakes) Needless to say, I had to go to a neighbor who also had an Impala and after much begging he let me take his wheels off to look at his brakes. I was 15 YO and that was my first car. Learned my lesson.
I always appreciate your videos because you are so thorough and give explanations as to what you can expect if it is done wrong or you try to take shortcuts. Very useful information, I am cost conscious but I do know that if you do it wrong by buying cheap when it counts it will cost you more money. I like that you make the differentiations where needed. We need to know where you can get by and where you cant!!!! Thanks so much!! Keep up the Awesome work!
The best! Been there, but use slotted rotors because of low speed braking in an old car in the rain.
I always used Bendix for my brakes, they always performed well for me. Love your vids Scotty.
Those caliper bolts can be terrible to get off. A simple trick I figured out, which is really easy, is to put the car jack under the socket wrench to break them loose. Works every time. Of course, the weight of the car will have to be supported by the stands or you need a second jack. I’ve done the hammer trick before, but sometimes that still doesn’t work.
When I want rotors for my Toyota, I only buy 'TOYOTA Genuine Parts' (usually from the local Toyota dealership). You've have to be nuts to buy aftermarket brake parts that are not the same as the vehicle you are driving, when your life depends on your brake working or not.
How about resurfacing the brake disc? I did that in my '12 corolla with excellent result. Original discs, by the way.
You do a star pattern when tightening the lug nuts so you don't wrap the new rotors. and always put the wheel back on the same lug nuts Mark the lug nut that lines up with the valve stem.
Scotty you save me a lot of money DIY
As a mechanic another way i keep my customers from coming back for a brake job for a long time is i change the calipers along with each brake job i do even if the old caliper is good and i do a brake flush as well
Great Video Scotty! I love the ones you make working on your own cars...A different Scotty lol. More humor for sure. Great Job 💯
4:06
Do not use hammers with ratchet handles.
Use a jack. No impact. Doesn't damage your ratchet handle.
You are right;I wonder where scottie got certified.
@@88fieroformula He's done far worse.
I stopped watching his videos for over a year simply because I saw him run a wire through the firewall, but BETWEEN THE GROMMET AND METAL instead of through the grommet.
Absolute fire hazard, this guy.
@@goodisnipr I haven’t seen yet Scotty working in an engine like overhaul or rebuilding a trans,is all talk and using social media to make money but is our fault to be watching his channel instead to grab a book or get hands on fixing or breaking something don’t matter is how we learn.
Scotty's expertise is on-believable.
9:22 I always thought you should tighten in a star pattern rather than just in a circle for even torque.
it doesn't matter so much with wheel nuts. but with head gasket jobs and similar jobs its very important to tighten bolts and nuts in a star/opposite sort of way😊
Ya you are right but he probably didn't want to confuse some people and those people might get confused and not tighten all of them lol.
That's the way I was taught.
He’s using a torque wrench so it doesn’t matter because they’ll all be tightened the same, if you’re free hand tightening them with the L wrench then the star pattern is the best way to go just so you can get everything as close to being the same tightness
@@GB-xr1cvthat makes sense
How about a video on bedding new brakes, Scotty. It would be a good excuse to use your favorite drag strip.
Great Tutorial; Just adding two recommendations; install new hardware kits when possible and coat lugnut stud threads with Anti seize.
So true. I purchased an OEM rotor and pad, which last much longer.
I notice Chrysler has this problem with this. It breaks my heart being a Mopar fan, but Chrysler brakes when new are below par. Heck it's just cheap. Scotty thank you I have to do drum brakes and you made a great video on it.
just in time for my first break job Thank you scotty
Easy job after watching your video. Great job Scotty. I will do mine next time cause I bought the best pads and discs already. Shld be a very easy job now I know how straight forward it is and no more impact wrench for me putting rims back on then.
I personally bought Advics rotors as they're OEM for Toyota. Never had any problems.
Hey I have that same impact wrench, works pretty good
Slide pins..... Absolutely. Plus you can use a large c clamp to press the caliper back before you take it off. Put one end of the clamp against the outer pad and the other end against the back of the caliper. Turn the clamp slowly. It's lot of fluid and a tiny brake line. And why don't you turn the wheel to the outside so you can get better access to the mounting bolts since you have both wheels off the ground.
Hey Scotty, good video However you didn't mention the Brake pad sensors? Do they apply to Toyota's ? Also instead of making it so difficult why don't you turn the wheel on the side your working to the left/right all the way to make access to the caliper mounting bracket easier? Just suggesting.
Buying new rear rotors for my LS 430 next week. I had oem lexus put on front a couple years ago. I was mildly considering aftermarket, but ya, it’s lexus all the way.
Scotty, you're a legend! I only discovered your channel a week ago and I have been binging. LEGEND! :)
When replacing rotors check brembo, they have smooth basic rotors cheaper than parts store crap rotors. Put set on my old twinturbo z and rotor warpage went away, they make expensive big brake kitd many racers use brembo brakes they have very cost effective basic rotors
Learn more from Scotty than anywhere 😁👍🏽
Hello Scotty
afternoon!
Coming from a guy who lived in the mountains , buy frozen rotors . They were the only ones that wouldn't warp . They cost alot but well worth it .
I never used to mess with brakes because of the asbestos hazard. Now that I'm retired I avoid this stuff because of my back. I love watching you work Scotty!💖
I would imagine that different vehicles have different torque settings. I torque the lug nuts on my 02 Mustang and 14 Xterra to 100 ft-lbs. I don't know what the caliper nuts and all should be torqued to though but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
For torquing down the bolts, don't they usually recommend doing them in a pattern like every 3rd, and not just sequentially one after another?
Great video Scotty. 1 question though...I didn't hear you say to take of reservoir cap for brake fluid. Are you not suppose to always take off brake fluid reservoir cap? An is it before taking off caliper or is it right before pressing caliper back in when reassembling? I did this before reassembly however it was really full almost overflow. Mechanic said it's so that you don't have to bleed brakes afterwards.
I do agree totally with peoples choice in parts. There is alot of cheap crude on the market in all categories of products but there is also good resources to know which is right for yr car.
So people do your homework on your individual vehicle.
Thank you Mr Scotty
I change the rotors with the pads, since they wear together, anyway. So, if I only get 5 years out of my aftermarket rotors (which is how long my brake pads last), that's okay with me. I have a 4 ft galvanized pipe I sometimes use, to slide over the handle of my 18" breaker bar, I prefer over trying to hit an elusive handle with a hammer.
Good Work. Great lesson Sir.
Brilliant and seems easy until you get your hands on. That is very professional job using simple tools.
I recommend NOT using channel locks for pushing back pistons. I did that once on my daughters 2010 Prius and ended up chipping a small chunk from these cast aluminum pistons. I forgot that I had a special tool (less than $10) for doing this job. I used the special tool on the other side and that did the trick.
LOL he made another brake video. Yes Scotty we understand that quality rotors are the way to go.
I noticed that you don't opened the cap for the break oil under the hood... why not ?... I heard that if you don't do it then air can get to the lines..
Is that right?
Its not just air, it has to do with the pressure and ease of moving the piston. ALWAYS open the cap yes
Should you not open the brake fluid reservoir cap, before you push back the pistons ?
I was always told if you don't, you can risk affecting the seals on the master cylinder ?
Not sure how true that is 🤷♂️🤔
Another great video. Would this be the same procedure for rear disc breaks? Thx 🍺🇺🇸
As an tech at alfa romeo I can 1000% agree with scotty! Ditch that $500 brake set and buy our $956 oem brake set. Thank you scotty! I can already smell a bigger tool box coming in from this video 😇
Years ago, Scotty, I did brakes on my f150. Drum brakes. Paid $45 each at the nappa auto parts. Drum read in casting, " made in taiwan. Next time, I bought 2new ones again, marked same way.Both worked the same......Oh yeah,...the2nd pair was $30 each, from JC Whitney. Same drums. All Whitneys steering and chassis ball joints, etc, were made
By MOOG....
Very good instructional video !! I do have a question though . I couldn't help but notice , that you didn't go " cross corner " when you tightened the lugs ? Good afternoon Scotty .. Gubs
How crazy is this I’m a Maintenance tech just started in the industry too and I dealt with my first set of warped rotors today. Lesson of the day today was test drive when you do a cvi just because it looks fine doesn’t mean it is
I've recently bought Textar discs and pads to do mine and my wife's. The great Edd China did a few videos with their products so I assume they're good!
When I do mine, I turn the steering wheel all the way to either side which gives you more room, improved vision and a better angle to get leverage on the bolts.
I can't believe Scotty didn't do that .
That's what I was taught
Every brake pad has its own shim to it not separate, and shim is necessary or not ? The metal plate like thing .
Never thought of it
What about the rear