Thanks for the video! Do we have to replace the return line oring? Is this better than draining torque converter? I cannot find the TC plug..need to turn with 27mm socket, right?
Thomas Hui not all MB have the TC plug, this is definitely a better method because it drains not only the TC but the cooler and all the return lines as well, mercedes had this method in their service manual for the earlier versions . About the o-rings, i like to replace them, but u can inspect them and if u r car has low miles i think these would be fine to re use. Thanks for the comment
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I removed 5L through the return line and pumped in 5L but the old fluid still did not turn to new..still better than just a pan drop.. Your procedure worked for my 16' GLE350. Thx
Hi there,thanks for a great video. I have a question please, What would the symptoms be if you have old transmission fluid? I drive a Ml63 2009 model. Current symptoms 1. Slight vibration on uphill at low revs 2000 rpm low speeds and most prominent when car as at operating temp 102 °C ,not as much when just started up eg. 60°< and the shifting is fine just a bit jurkey as soon as next gear is selected, high speeds gear shifting is much smoother. I would appreciate it so much if you could give some feedback on this.
This video cured all my confusion, I made an appointment with dealer then realized there was no way in hell they would do all this as the tech could not answer a single question I asked. Thanks so much…
Flying mechanic "DIY"? I'd say Flying Mechanic PRO! Even FULL description of job, parts needed, & torque specs in description? Too good. This is the difference between someone who just works on cars & someone who loves cars. Thank you for caring enough to be good at what you do & for giving ppl like me a proper example of this job.
Appreciate the detail of each steps. I flushed my transmission today for the first time at 169,000 for ML350 2010. Connecting clear hose to return line was painful, took me multiple attempts to attach half inch hose, and almost an hour! The entire task took me 4 hours but I was doing it for the first time. Car runs very smooth, no slips and or gear issue. I did use lifeguard transmission flush additive in the old oil before I started to put new oil and new filter. Thanks a lot!
Thank you for this excellent video. I performed this service on my 2008 CL550, in my driveway, so I was not a quick as you. excellent results using AMSOIL transmission fluid. The most difficult operation was reinstalling the pan with the new gasket, took me a few tries to get the gasket to seal. Very sensitive to the light torque specs. If torqued to tight the gasket rolls and leaks. With 114,400 miles I believe this is the first transmission service on this Mercedes. Old fluid was black, new fluid and the CL550 purrs!
Thank you for the video, i just did a flush (6l dumped out). After the dealer and mechanics telling me that the GL350 didn't need transmission servicing now at its at 200,000KM and there is torque shuddering. After the flush, shuddering is almost all gone. I will drive a few more KM and see if I need to add additive such as Shudder Fixx. thanks again for the great video.
Just completed a transmission flush on my w209 clk500 75,000kms and x164 gl450 90,000kms. Thanks for the great video, your explanation made the job very easy. I did not have the motor medic fluid pump so I used a 1.5L fluid pump and it worked great.
I have gone through so many videos on TH-cam regarding ATF changing, I am sure this is the best and contain every information and helped make all of my doubts clear. Thanks a lot
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY my w205 c63 transmission has a wet clutch which cannot be drained correct? About how much fluid should transmission take just removing pan? Thanks!
@@TECH-ur6xv Unfortunately yes. Working on them in one form or another as we speak. You start out with one and all is wonderful. Then something happens and maintenance goes on seemingly forever. Then some sort of deal amazement drops in your lap. Because you're looking for a deal of course. And then the same thing rehappens. The cycle repeats. So you end up with more.
Thank you for being a real technician and doing a proper job.. unfortunately nobody today wants to work like this and no customer wants to pay for a job like this. In America Atleast.
Flying MechanicDIY is the man! I really appreciate all the articulated details and picture qualify. Every critical closeup is crystal clear! I have been longing for a complete flush for my transmission and had no clue which spot on the tranny's cooler return path i can access easily. a lot of mechanics doing 722.9 just drain the torque converter but that approach still leaves behind quite some old fluid in the oil cooler and lines.
Doing the flush this way is excellent. I did this once with a minivan that I have and a couple times with my old Volvo 740. I would drain the pan and add clean tranny fluid then start the engine and pump out the dirty fluid. I pretty much do what you did , and once the fluid runs clean I then stop and check for fluid levels appropriately. I think I will check my 09 E350 Mercedes for the appropriate line and do as you did. Thanks , It just never crossed my mind to do this on my Benz as well
I was here a few weeks back with some turbine sensor issues in my 722.9 MB wanted to fit a new ECU Unit, but in the end, I drained the oil, drained the TQ (I found the plug) and removed the complete Matrix with attached ECU Control Unit. Using another channel here on YT, I took the ECU Control Unit off the valve body, drained and carefully cleaned that up, and then cleaned the actual ECU Control Body, including removing all 8 Solenoids and the gear shift selector. Loads of very very fine particles of Aluminium or Steel dust everywhere, just enough to cause tracking across the plugs where they are joined onto the foil circuit boards, causing the fault readings on the box (and him getting stuck in 3rd or 7th or ?. It took 6 hours including a total flush of the system and guess what, it's as good as new. 1000 kms later, still perfect!...... When you change the fluid in a 722.9, you also need to clean the ECU Control Unit as well, because you'd be amazed how much micro debrits gets left in there!........ it's all here on YT, and it's not that bad a job after all. Thanks for the tips. I will change the oil again in 3 years including the TQ. Nice to have found the plug!
I never seen a similar professional handling and awareness while processing a job, thank you for the effort you spent on this video. I saw a (Al ain water bottle), please update your workshop location in the "about".
😂😂😂 my viewers keep surprising me with the things they catch in the video 😂😂 unfortunately im no longer offering commercial services for the time being ..
Real nice and detailed. Worked for my 2014 GL450. Note that there is a thermostat bypass in the cooler lines, so you won’t be able to drain the cooler with this method. Thanks,
In the description it is mentioned that we can still do this exact process with or without additional cooler.. I have 7g PLUS but you are saying no oil will come out of line until 90C??
I found it useful to remove the valve body and clean the top thoroughly. It collects a lot of debris and will dirty the new fluid immediately. Also, remove and clean the solenoids onn the valve body.
I did the same procedure, but instead of taking off the return line, I removed the torque converter screw and emptied the system. Worked very well. The only surprise was that the pan gasguette was a bit hard to fit, and it took some time to adjust it carefully. If gasquette is not fit properly the pan will leak ACF fluid....
@You Wish There is a window with the plastic cover, you will have to remove the plastic cover which is very easy. The window exposes the bottum part of the torque converter. On there is a small screw on the torque converter which is to be accessed through this window but the screw might not be alined so that once can see it. The method is to start start and shut of the engine in a number of trails and after a number of trail (for me 4 - 6 times) the screw will align so that you can access it....
There is a tool to attach to the filter hole to push new fluid or low pressure air to get all the old fluid out. The valve body alone holds at least 2 quarts
If u only drain the oil pan+torque converter u will drain the full capacity if the gearbox minus one quart, so the valve body with all the plumbing and oil converter holds just less than one quart.
I have the same vehicle. Can u pls share how did you attach the hose to the return oil cooler line? I am unable to force my fingers in that narrow space, to reach and attach a pipe to this line thanks,
@@NehaSinghal-ig8ir follow that return line back (to front of vehicle) to radiator, you will see metal strap that holds this line in place. I took it off and was able to pull back return line enough to get hose on.
Great video! Thanks! The Canadian release of the W164 in 2006 had no transmission service interval, but after many shifting issues a service interval was added to models a few years later. The recommendation should have been brought backwards given that it is the same transmission, but it went into legal issues with cost of ownership instead of maintaining the vehicle so it would last.
WOW!! Excellent video Sir! I looked all over youtube for days for a good through video how to do this. I'm doing this on my 2013 gl450 i think it should be exactly the same thanks again. only thing I don't have is a tool reader to get the temp to 113F degrees.
..for my 2013 Ml 350, I bought the MB2 scanner...about $120 on ebay...great tool to have. I get an annoying chk engine light every couple months for the gas filler return, evap line...but reads Temp. when I did this service.
Just had this done at the mechanic. Drained torque converter and lines,etc. Usef amsoil aignature aeries atf vs the stock atuff. New filter and gasket,etc. Used amsoil in the transfer case as well.
@@aimasira1989 But the sump has to have ATF or some liquid (up to the filter level) in order for this to work. Otherwise as soon as the fluid dips below the filter you'll be pushing air, leaving all the fluid below the filter just sitting there. Same for the torque converter... the air will evacuate everything up until the center of the doughnut (where the pump is situated). As soon as the liquid falls below the port for the pump you'll be pushing air. You're leaving 3-4 liters of old ATF in the system. Can you give a more detailed explaination on your experience evacuating 9 liters by blowing air through the transmission please? Thank you in advance
@@southriverco no you didnt understand. You will remove the sump and the filter, you will remove all oil that is possible and then you will do the rest. You can then remove the bolt on the side of the gearbox that goes to the oil cooler to blow air their and also blow air throught the small holes under the hydraulic module of the gearbox (if you are in the mood you can also remove the hydraulic module also and blow air on the holes under it) by doing that you will remove more oil. If you find the hole that goes towards the torque converter the you will push oil out of it
D-Day is Friday! Thank you for the TQ drain plug tip, I’ll take a look. You mention that with the flush you may encounter a thermostat control. Got that, no flow back until 80’c +/-. So, the box is filled with 5 litres of new fluid & we wait for the warm up!. Surely, the new fluid and the old are now mixing in the gearbox for 15 minutes before the thermostat opens. Now we have a mixed up load of fluid, old and new, because the TQ is still pumping. This bit is confusing me. If I don’t have a TQ drain plug, all the ‘old TQ’ fluid is going to mix with the new ‘before’ the thermostat opens. Please, can you explain. Sorry for all the questions, but this is pretty serious stuff and this is the only part I don’t get! Happy 2020, and thank you in advance for our answer. Kind regards. Mark.
I dont have a confirmed explanation, but from trans expert who is a friend, dont worry about the thermostat, just perform the procedure as in the video and u r good to go, fluid will not mix in any situation as long as the return line is disconnected
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks a million for all your support on the flush subject. I think, that as I have a very occassional input signal interruption (not failed) and I’ve driven another 1000 kms with the fault occuring only once, I’m going to take Electronic Control Unit off the main valve body & give all the solenoids & circuits surounding the plug (s) a proper clean up with a magnet & then put it back together again with another new Filter & Fresh Oil. If after that, the problem persists, I’ll send the ECU body away for repairs, as then I know exactly what is goign on. It’s worth the effort. The fault code continues to be Y3/8N1/8N2, but I’ve seen in various videos, magnetic debris can be causing signals to fluctuate. If I find any sort of this debris, it might be that simple to clean them up, after all, the transmission was & is still very clean. We see. Thanks again. Happy New Year Sir. Mark, Amsterdam.
I do not know but suspect my Sprinter has got a thermostat so I took it for a run to warm the oil up first and then the valve will be open just require to temp to drop to the measuring temp. This is the clearest instruction on youtube it is a pity that MB don't give out any information at all on their models. 'take to a dealer ' is just a device to rob owners of money
If you are doing this on a w211 E63, disconnect the return line under the front bumper instead of at the transmission. The hose is flexible there instead of a metal tube.
And, 2013 ML 350 , I had NO drain Plug in my converter, ...I cranked it around several times looking...anyway, look no further, this is the best way to do the service. And please use Genuine Mercedes Fluid...Ya' saved a bundle by doing it yourself,
So I bought a 550 2008 for my son. Got a diagnosis on it, and it was fine. Was told all it needs is a oil change, brought it to valvoline and ever since it's been running slow like the transmission isn't switching gears fast enough.
Usually a code scan should reveal any issue with the transmission, but common untrained mistakes like wrong fluid or improper level are things to be aware of
Good video! I have 2 questions: When you unclip the return line, don't you need some plug or etc. in the transmission? There will be a hole in the transmission during the flushing process? And If I have a drain plug on the TC, would it be effective to drain the oil from there also, or it's totally useless because of the flushing? Thanks! :)
Yes There will be a hole, but its gona be like the other vent hole, no danger there. U can the TC drain, but this method will not only flush the TC, but will remove all the fluid from the complete circuit (valve body, coolers, lines)
Good video but note: If your car has not been serviced and it’s on up in mileage I don’t recommend ever totally flushing and using all new oil…hence the stories about I got my fluid changed and now my car won’t go
I have been told that if you have a ‘mature’ car (134,00 miles) you should replace the filter, clean pan and magnets and new gasket but capture the original fluid and put back. Not exactly sure but in my lifetime experience it has been flush transmission fluid than change transmission. Many thanks for video.
The new updated pan works on the older 722.9 & MB recommends switching to that pan and the improved thicker filter but in certain models you still use the red fluid regardless of the pan. MB states to use red in my ML320 CDI but I am using the new pan, filter, and overflow.
Oh, and one more question to add to my earlier comment, if you don't mind? My 2014 w212 transmission has stop/ start, and has an electric pump on the transmission which keeps the oil moving, even when the engine is switched of via Start / Stop. Its not a very difficult job to remove this pump ( 2 bolts ) and then rotate the engine until the TC drain stud becomes visible ..but I was wondering if it would be better just to leave the pump in-situ, and disconnect the coolant return pipe and drain from there, 2 litres X 2 Litres..is there any reason why this would not work ? And it would have the advantage of replacing ALL the trans fluid? Thanks for your input / advice, Jim,
TC drain will only drain the TC, however removing the return line will make sure all the old fluid from inside the valve body/TC/Cooler and cooler pipes is flushed out and not retuned into the pan .
This is not The 7G Tronic MCT 722.9 Plus(Multi-Clutch Technology), (No torque convertor.). Ive seen dozens of the current video but none with the 722.9 plus transmissions . would be nice to find one ..... Great video By the way 👏👏👏👏👏👏🎩🎩off..
Hi. Thank you for this awesome video! The only question i have is on the silicone grease. Do you apply it to the bottom side or also to the top and the sides?The reason i ask is that MB document says to ensure the pan and the transmission housing is free from oil and grease. Thank you!
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Oh! Thanks for that info, I've decided to learn how to fix/service my own car. I've had my E320 CDI from new since 2003 and still running strong. Now it's the project car - hope I don't break it 😂😂 But without the content you produce we wouldn't be able to carry out such tasks with ease, so thanks for your time and content!!
Great video with lots of great detail! I have a 2011 E63 AMG w/80k miles with the wet clutch (no torque converter). I plan on replacing the transmission fluid. Do I need to do this procedure or just the typical drain, remove and clean pan/magnets/replace filter/overflow pipe/gasket and refill trans?
Thank you for making this wonderful video. I am about to attempt this "power drain" to get the fluid out of the torque converter and I am wondering why you need to remove and fill in 2 liter increments. If you hooked compressed air to the fill pump then could you not refill the trans at the same rate that it is emptying? It seems to me that you could reach a steady state in=out with a compressor and a valve to control the airflow. Thank you!
Awesome vid. Used this procedure last night on my 2022 Sprinter. One question on the path of the fluid. I assume that if using this method flushes everything the fluid would need to get pumped from the sump, through the TC, then out the cooler line(left side) through the cooler, back in the return line(right side). Is that correct? Thanks
Maybe I missed it but what was the "secret" you mentioned (@ 5:15) about reusing the old pan bolts? Also is there a possible alternative easier to access return line on some models with 722.9 (at radiator perhaps) that could be used rather than the one on right side of trans? (I'm thinking my 06 e350 of course)
Thanks for the very informative and comprehensive transmission fluid change and flush video. Well done. While watching it, and comparing it to my previous MB with the 722.6 trans, where you could dip and check the fluid via the dipstick / fill pipe, I was thinking if it would be possible to "modify" the pan when it was off the car by adding ( A) a separate drain plug and (B) a dipstick pipe? To put it mildly, it's a pain if you just want to check the fluid level and condition of the fluid, ( you need it off the ground, remove the undertrays, connect the pipe to the drain plug, pump in some extra fluid, and then allow it to drain the excess fluid, ) to the best of my knowledge, their is no sensor in the box to tell you the level via OBD? ( at least in my 2014 E class w212 722.9 anyway) Have you ever heard of this being done? Thanks again for the great video.
@The Flying MechanicDIY Is line to disconnect from the transmission the oil cooler return line (outlet)? This line would run from the top of the transmission oil cooler to the transmission near the pan? I am looking for a way to verify the line. My 2012 c350 has a slightly different look. Thanks in advance for the help. And great video. Very helpful.
I have a 2006 c230 Sport with 145k miles, I just bought it a couple months ago. The transmission is fine but it slips a bit, not a rough drive though. My question is, if this oil has not been changed at all in this car, is there a chance it could damage the transmission? I hear nightmare stories from my friends about changing an old transmission fluid and then the transmission wont work again. Thank you for your excellent video!
I would of mention if the transmission has code A89 (Reduce Friction) and non code A89 (non-Friction). You can decoded the VIN# on the internet for free to find out. This will determine if your Transmission fluid use the Blue color (MB ATF 134 FE or MBZ Approval 236.15 (For A89)) or Red color (No A89). The part numbers are different for A89 and non A89 like the filter, Guide Tube, etc.
YES YES YES ive been looking all over I have a 04 SL500 and for some odd reason they said it takes blue I didnt believe it till now thank you so much man video is the best and so far the only lets get him 100000 views all. I do want to ask what is the cheapest blue fluid out there im in Chicago,IL if it helps thanks again dude
There is another method to determine fluid as well, look at the transmission pan from underneath, if it has circles only means red fluid, if it has oval shapes then blue fluid
I wrote u another comment, but youtube decided not to post it . But let me summarize it. There are 2 links in the video description, one to input ur VIN number to look for your car build info, if it has code A89 then blue fluid otherwise red. The other link will give you all available alternate fluids, For blue fluid look for 236.15 specs , for red fluid look for 236.14. Thanks for your comment
Hello sir, I've some questions if you could answer will be appreciated. What is that oring you talked about? You said remember the oring? Over by the retaining line. When you took that return line off to flush torque converter u added a clear hose in one line, did you block the other end? In this video are you working on a glk350? Thank you for the video
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thank you so much for your reply. I will try to do it in my glk350(2015). Under the car looks pretty similar to Mine. Hopefully I will be able to do it by myself
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video I watch many time to understand I plane to flush my car have 2012 E 350 4 matic WDDHF8JB5CA522997 how to find out ATF return line. thanks.
I have the PDF document "AR27.55-P-0100B Flush out automatic transmission and torque converter 19.7.10" and it shows the return flow pipe on the left. The feed line is on the right. On your video the return was on the right. Is it any way to tell the difference so I can remove the correct line on the GLK350? (It has the 722.9). Thanks.
On the 722.9 it is always on the right side . U can look up the specific entry for ur car on the MB EPC and it will clearly label the right one as the return pipe ..
can you please post as a response to this comment as you were fast in the tools needed- please write the tools with part numbers so newbee like me can easily get the right sockets, allen keys and pump and its fittings- thanks for a well photographed video
The special tools are all in the video description, other than that u will need common hand tools, like torx sockets, inverted torx socket, torque wrench and some ratchets
Hello, this is a good video, but I have a question, the vehicle must be horizontal, but in this case the pan is not horizontal, if the vehicle is horizontal, the pan is inclined. If your pan is horizontal the vehicle is not horizontal.. this hapend because the pan is not horizontal in the vehicle. Please I am confused.. thanks
Question to all you guys. How do you perform a job replacement like this if you don't have a hydraulic lifter at home?. I would love to do this myself but I only have the jacks that come with cars.
That is almost impossible pro, either a jack and four jack-stands to lift all 4 corners, or if it is an SUV with height control u can raise it all the way up and see if u can work there comfortably.
I didn't realize until I received them, the bolts are aluminum! Have you had any issues breaking them off or being frozen in place do to corrosion from salt/urea de-icing efforts used on the roads in the winter?
So I've got to ask, why do you need to replace a rubber gasket like that? Unless it's cracked or leaking wouldn't it still function? I've reused similar gaskets in my dodges differentials.
Hi.Great video!One question.After whole operation, is there any need to adapt the gearbox with computer software?Or just flush and fill and drive happy😆?
Hi, I enjoyed watching your video tremendously! I’ve just picked up a 2012 Mercedes S350 blue TEC; would you know if this 7-speed transmission is equipped with a “Transmission Electrical connector/ adapter” that needs to be replaced when servicing the transmission?. The reason I ask is that I had to replace the transmission electrical connector on my E55 AMG when changing the transmission fluid in the past. ** Any reply or insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
I believe the E55 has the 5 speed 722.6 unlike S350 which has the 7 speed 722.9 .. in both cases there is no requirement to replace the electrical connector if it is not leaking
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks for the prompt reply! My question is: do the 722.9 transmissions have the electrical connector? You might know because You serviced that transmission. My local Mercedes dealership couldn’t locate that connector in their catalog. The part person doesn’t think there’s one! Whereas I know the 722.6 transmission has one attached to it. ** I just want to have all the parts on hand ready before servicing the transmission. Thanks again!
Hi. A great video, it has been very good for me to change my car, which is the same. A question. My car does not have the plastic part from which you remove the screws first, just start the video. It is a square shaped piece of plastics, the one that is left behind, could you give me the reference to order it and put it? Thank you.
What could be the reason on ML 350-2010, few times when putting into recerse, it will make a noise-and little stalking, car has 110kmiles, first heard like 5-10kmiles ago, is not always, once put of 10 times, ussually when leaving the parking after overnight parked. Thanks, in the process of changing oil...
You forgot one thing, Where are you located so I can have you do it. Great video. Dam, i can't afford to ship my car to Jordan. The cost would be to much. lol
Great video u did there really heplfull with all the details, i want to flush my C class w205 transmision can you sugest an OBD scaner that i can mesure my transmision temperatur ? Thanks for the content.
Great video! Thanks. One question: is there a way to figure out ahead of time if I have the white or black overflow pipe? I am traveling to my daughter to do the work and would like to have all parts ahead of time. I have my build sheet. Does that tell me what overflow pipe/pan that i have?
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks for the response. You reference using at Torx 14 for the return line removal. Did you mean 14mm triple square bit? None of the Torx sets come with a T14. Thanks again
Excellent video, super professional presentation! Question--It appears both my vehicles have converter drains, a 722.908 & 722.966--all but one of my older MBs have also had drains, and I've always drained the converter verses flushing? The one vehicle I did have to flush, I removed the right return line at the cooler vs at the transmission, it was easier to get to and didn't require new seals. Thoughts?
I rather always flush, which extract the old fluid from valve body/cooler lines and cooler vs Torque Converter plug which only drains torque converter . I always did it at the transmission not only for MB but for any other car i work on, few exceptions when it is not accessible, so its ur choice.
My 166.004 has auto stop/start, and the pump is right under the drain access, not happening! Interesting caveat on this install, the return line has a clamp about 6 inches ahead of the port in the case, well actually both lines do, any way, I had to use a knuckle head ratchet and a short E10 to loosen it enough for the line to come out of the case. The clamp bolt only needed to be loosened enough to allow the line some freedom as the forward end of the line has a flex tube portion for vibration with the engine before it connects to the thermostat block. Interesting set up, the thermostat block for the cooler is right behind the right engine mount, pulling the return line from the case is thee only viable way to access the return fluid vs the older cars where you could split the flex line right behind the radiator.
Does this apply to 2007 Mercedes E320 with the same transmission 722.9? Drain the torque converter as well? How can I read the temperature of the transmission oil? I don’t have a scanning tool Thank you in advance! I just subscribed 😁
I understand you don't drain the torque converter because you can replace the oil with fresh oil when tapping the return line. But I can imagine small debree being in the torque converter which is being flushed out with removing the torque converter drain plug..?
Hi alexander, unfortunately i cant offer my services commercially, im a DIYr that offer free services for family, friends and who ever reach me. Located in Dubai
Important info is in the video description plus torque specs
Thanks for the video! Do we have to replace the return line oring? Is this better than draining torque converter? I cannot find the TC plug..need to turn with 27mm socket, right?
Thomas Hui not all MB have the TC plug, this is definitely a better method because it drains not only the TC but the cooler and all the return lines as well, mercedes had this method in their service manual for the earlier versions .
About the o-rings, i like to replace them, but u can inspect them and if u r car has low miles i think these would be fine to re use.
Thanks for the comment
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I removed 5L through the return line and pumped in 5L but the old fluid still did not turn to new..still better than just a pan drop.. Your procedure worked for my 16' GLE350. Thx
Thomas Hui , it probably did, its just hard to differentiate the new vs old fluid because of the dark color.
Thanks for watching
Hi there,thanks for a great video.
I have a question please, What would the symptoms be if you have old transmission fluid?
I drive a Ml63 2009 model. Current symptoms
1. Slight vibration on uphill at low revs 2000 rpm low speeds and most prominent when car as at operating temp 102 °C ,not as much when just started up eg. 60°< and the shifting is fine just a bit jurkey as soon as next gear is selected, high speeds gear shifting is much smoother.
I would appreciate it so much if you could give some feedback on this.
This video cured all my confusion, I made an appointment with dealer then realized there was no way in hell they would do all this as the tech could not answer a single question I asked. Thanks so much…
Flying mechanic "DIY"? I'd say Flying Mechanic PRO! Even FULL description of job, parts needed, & torque specs in description? Too good. This is the difference between someone who just works on cars & someone who loves cars. Thank you for caring enough to be good at what you do & for giving ppl like me a proper example of this job.
Most comprehensive and easy-to-follow guide on a 722.9 service. Thank you!
Appreciate the detail of each steps. I flushed my transmission today for the first time at 169,000 for ML350 2010. Connecting clear hose to return line was painful, took me multiple attempts to attach half inch hose, and almost an hour! The entire task took me 4 hours but I was doing it for the first time. Car runs very smooth, no slips and or gear issue. I did use lifeguard transmission flush additive in the old oil before I started to put new oil and new filter. Thanks a lot!
I did mine unfortunate gears can't change noe
What hose size did u use for that return line?
i wish all mechanics were professional like him.
Thank you for this excellent video. I performed this service on my 2008 CL550, in my driveway, so I was not a quick as you. excellent results using AMSOIL transmission fluid. The most difficult operation was reinstalling the pan with the new gasket, took me a few tries to get the gasket to seal. Very sensitive to the light torque specs. If torqued to tight the gasket rolls and leaks. With 114,400 miles I believe this is the first transmission service on this Mercedes. Old fluid was black, new fluid and the CL550 purrs!
Thank you for the video, i just did a flush (6l dumped out). After the dealer and mechanics telling me that the GL350 didn't need transmission servicing now at its at 200,000KM and there is torque shuddering. After the flush, shuddering is almost all gone. I will drive a few more KM and see if I need to add additive such as Shudder Fixx. thanks again for the great video.
Did your shudder come back?
Just completed a transmission flush on my w209 clk500 75,000kms and x164 gl450 90,000kms. Thanks for the great video, your explanation made the job very easy. I did not have the motor medic fluid pump so I used a 1.5L fluid pump and it worked great.
I have gone through so many videos on TH-cam regarding ATF changing, I am sure this is the best and contain every information and helped make all of my doubts clear. Thanks a lot
Hi Kumar
Is this the same for a S350 2014 W222 transmission 7G 722..903???? Regards : John UK
AWESOME UNICORN SABINA A same for all 722.9 (except some AMG models with the wet clutch not a torque converter)
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY my w205 c63 transmission has a wet clutch which cannot be drained correct? About how much fluid should transmission take just removing pan? Thanks!
kelvin sun between 4.5-5.5L
You’re the only one in TH-cam making a transmission flush of Mercedes Car
Dunno if thats good or bad 🤣🤣
Love this guy's attention to detail and instructions !! If only my airplane mechanics were this devoted.
😂😂😂😂 .. hope u r not an airliner
U have Airplanes ??? 😅😊
@@TECH-ur6xv Unfortunately yes. Working on them in one form or another as we speak. You start out with one and all is wonderful. Then something happens and maintenance goes on seemingly forever. Then some sort of deal amazement drops in your lap. Because you're looking for a deal of course. And then the same thing rehappens. The cycle repeats. So you end up with more.
Thank you for being a real technician and doing a proper job.. unfortunately nobody today wants to work like this and no customer wants to pay for a job like this. In America Atleast.
What do you think is fair price to pay for a job like this ?
@@darkvapor3302 my local MB dealer in NYC charges $775
Flying MechanicDIY is the man! I really appreciate all the articulated details and picture qualify. Every critical closeup is crystal clear! I have been longing for a complete flush for my transmission and had no clue which spot on the tranny's cooler return path i can access easily. a lot of mechanics doing 722.9 just drain the torque converter but that approach still leaves behind quite some old fluid in the oil cooler and lines.
Wh is the hose size u will need for that return line?thx
Doing the flush this way is excellent. I did this once with a minivan that I have and a couple times with my old Volvo 740. I would drain the pan and add clean tranny fluid then start the engine and pump out the dirty fluid. I pretty much do what you did , and once the fluid runs clean I then stop and check for fluid levels appropriately. I think I will check my 09 E350 Mercedes for the appropriate line and do as you did. Thanks , It just never crossed my mind to do this on my Benz as well
I was here a few weeks back with some turbine sensor issues in my 722.9 MB wanted to fit a new ECU Unit, but in the end, I drained the oil, drained the TQ (I found the plug) and removed the complete Matrix with attached ECU Control Unit. Using another channel here on YT, I took the ECU Control Unit off the valve body, drained and carefully cleaned that up, and then cleaned the actual ECU Control Body, including removing all 8 Solenoids and the gear shift selector. Loads of very very fine particles of Aluminium or Steel dust everywhere, just enough to cause tracking across the plugs where they are joined onto the foil circuit boards, causing the fault readings on the box (and him getting stuck in 3rd or 7th or ?. It took 6 hours including a total flush of the system and guess what, it's as good as new. 1000 kms later, still perfect!...... When you change the fluid in a 722.9, you also need to clean the ECU Control Unit as well, because you'd be amazed how much micro debrits gets left in there!........ it's all here on YT, and it's not that bad a job after all. Thanks for the tips. I will change the oil again in 3 years including the TQ. Nice to have found the plug!
Believe this aswel sensors must pick up metal after 5 years need good clean but trying to find garage to do it, what was problems you was having?
What a great video, especially the length you went to in the description. Well done, wish you were in Australia!
I never seen a similar professional handling and awareness while processing a job, thank you for the effort you spent on this video.
I saw a (Al ain water bottle), please update your workshop location in the "about".
😂😂😂 my viewers keep surprising me with the things they catch in the video 😂😂 unfortunately im no longer offering commercial services for the time being ..
Real nice and detailed. Worked for my 2014 GL450. Note that there is a thermostat bypass in the cooler lines, so you won’t be able to drain the cooler with this method. Thanks,
In the description it is mentioned that we can still do this exact process with or without additional cooler.. I have 7g PLUS but you are saying no oil will come out of line until 90C??
Thanks for the video and specifying the temp for the green overflow. VEry helpful!
Very informative video! Thanks for taking the time to put quality information out for us to learn from and view!! A+++++ Rating!!
I found it useful to remove the valve body and clean the top thoroughly. It collects a lot of debris and will dirty the new fluid immediately. Also, remove and clean the solenoids onn the valve body.
I did the same procedure, but instead of taking off the return line, I removed the torque converter screw and emptied the system. Worked very well. The only surprise was that the pan gasguette was a bit hard to fit, and it took some time to adjust it carefully. If gasquette is not fit properly the pan will leak ACF fluid....
@You Wish There is a window with the plastic cover, you will have to remove the plastic cover which is very easy. The window exposes the bottum part of the torque converter. On there is a small screw on the torque converter which is to be accessed through this window but the screw might not be alined so that once can see it. The method is to start start and shut of the engine in a number of trails and after a number of trail (for me 4 - 6 times) the screw will align so that you can access it....
FCP Euro is a excellent source for all your Mercedes needs. Also offer lifetime warranty on all parts.
Awesome video! Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video and all the knowledge you have shared. It is very much appreciated!
Excellent video. Very thorough. I Will definitely be using this information. The best I have seen.
You sound like a very knowledgeable mechanic 👍
Best informative video on transmission fluid replacement!!!
There is a tool to attach to the filter hole to push new fluid or low pressure air to get all the old fluid out. The valve body alone holds at least 2 quarts
If u only drain the oil pan+torque converter u will drain the full capacity if the gearbox minus one quart, so the valve body with all the plumbing and oil converter holds just less than one quart.
This is the best video for this transmission. Thank you!
I got 2014 GL450. Worked flawlessly. Thank you for all details fro do the job
I have the same vehicle. Can u pls share how did you attach the hose to the return oil cooler line? I am unable to force my fingers in that narrow space, to reach and attach a pipe to this line thanks,
@@NehaSinghal-ig8ir follow that return line back (to front of vehicle) to radiator, you will see metal strap that holds this line in place. I took it off and was able to pull back return line enough to get hose on.
@@BAFiusRUS Thanks. Do I also need to plug the hole where the return line connects to the transmission (passenger side on American vehicle)?
@@NehaSinghal-ig8ir no I didn’t, nothing comes out of there
@@BAFiusRUS your tips were so helpful and precise. Thanks again!
Fantastic video...Thank you so much for taking the time to show us how to do this!
Thx you very much sir, you have explained process perfectly and made it very easy for me to understand thank you very much
Great video! Thanks! The Canadian release of the W164 in 2006 had no transmission service interval, but after many shifting issues a service interval was added to models a few years later. The recommendation should have been brought backwards given that it is the same transmission, but it went into legal issues with cost of ownership instead of maintaining the vehicle so it would last.
WOW!! Excellent video Sir! I looked all over youtube for days for a good through video how to do this. I'm doing this on my 2013 gl450 i think it should be exactly the same thanks again. only thing I don't have is a tool reader to get the temp to 113F degrees.
..for my 2013 Ml 350, I bought the MB2 scanner...about $120 on ebay...great tool to have. I get an annoying chk engine light every couple months for the gas filler return, evap line...but reads Temp. when I did this service.
Just had this done at the mechanic. Drained torque converter and lines,etc. Usef amsoil aignature aeries atf vs the stock atuff. New filter and gasket,etc. Used amsoil in the transfer case as well.
Good tip, with the return line.
You can do it also by blowing air inside the transmission holes 1-2 bar max. You can remove 9 liters that way
Are you speaking generalities or about the 722.9 specifically? Please cite your source or (if this is from personal experience, please clarify.
@@southriverco personal experience working on cars with 722.9 and the older 722.6
@@aimasira1989 But the sump has to have ATF or some liquid (up to the filter level) in order for this to work. Otherwise as soon as the fluid dips below the filter you'll be pushing air, leaving all the fluid below the filter just sitting there. Same for the torque converter... the air will evacuate everything up until the center of the doughnut (where the pump is situated). As soon as the liquid falls below the port for the pump you'll be pushing air. You're leaving 3-4 liters of old ATF in the system. Can you give a more detailed explaination on your experience evacuating 9 liters by blowing air through the transmission please? Thank you in advance
@@southriverco no you didnt understand.
You will remove the sump and the filter, you will remove all oil that is possible and then you will do the rest.
You can then remove the bolt on the side of the gearbox that goes to the oil cooler to blow air their and also blow air throught the small holes under the hydraulic module of the gearbox (if you are in the mood you can also remove the hydraulic module also and blow air on the holes under it) by doing that you will remove more oil. If you find the hole that goes towards the torque converter the you will push oil out of it
@@aimasira1989 Thank you for this. I understand where you are coming from now.
D-Day is Friday! Thank you for the TQ drain plug tip, I’ll take a look. You mention that with the flush you may encounter a thermostat control. Got that, no flow back until 80’c +/-. So, the box is filled with 5 litres of new fluid & we wait for the warm up!. Surely, the new fluid and the old are now mixing in the gearbox for 15 minutes before the thermostat opens. Now we have a mixed up load of fluid, old and new, because the TQ is still pumping. This bit is confusing me. If I don’t have a TQ drain plug, all the ‘old TQ’ fluid is going to mix with the new ‘before’ the thermostat opens. Please, can you explain. Sorry for all the questions, but this is pretty serious stuff and this is the only part I don’t get! Happy 2020, and thank you in advance for our answer. Kind regards. Mark.
I dont have a confirmed explanation, but from trans expert who is a friend, dont worry about the thermostat, just perform the procedure as in the video and u r good to go, fluid will not mix in any situation as long as the return line is disconnected
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks a million for all your support on the flush subject. I think, that as I have a very occassional input signal interruption (not failed) and I’ve driven another 1000 kms with the fault occuring only once, I’m going to take Electronic Control Unit off the main valve body & give all the solenoids & circuits surounding the plug (s) a proper clean up with a magnet & then put it back together again with another new Filter & Fresh Oil. If after that, the problem persists, I’ll send the ECU body away for repairs, as then I know exactly what is goign on. It’s worth the effort. The fault code continues to be Y3/8N1/8N2, but I’ve seen in various videos, magnetic debris can be causing signals to fluctuate. If I find any sort of this debris, it might be that simple to clean them up, after all, the transmission was & is still very clean. We see. Thanks again. Happy New Year Sir. Mark, Amsterdam.
I do not know but suspect my Sprinter has got a thermostat so I took it for a run to warm the oil up first and then the valve will be open just require to temp to drop to the measuring temp. This is the clearest instruction on youtube it is a pity that MB don't give out any information at all on their models. 'take to a dealer ' is just a device to rob owners of money
Great video simple straight forward (layman terms) explanation on how to do this job right and well thank you ;-)
If you are doing this on a w211 E63, disconnect the return line under the front bumper instead of at the transmission. The hose is flexible there instead of a metal tube.
This is the best MB tranny tutorial on YT.................
Very informative, well paced, and engaging video. Thanks I'm now subscribed
A really good video. Well narrated and explained. Thanks for doing this.
He has an accent, he knows his stuff😊
The new pan bolts are very very light aluminum , to stop corrosion. I suspect alloy for price and the real reason to change them is fatigue.
"Stop thinking like a teenage girl!"....Very good video...Thanks!
And, 2013 ML 350 , I had NO drain Plug in my converter, ...I cranked it around several times looking...anyway, look no further, this is the best way to do the service. And please use Genuine Mercedes Fluid...Ya' saved a bundle by doing it yourself,
Best video for ATF flush.
So I bought a 550 2008 for my son. Got a diagnosis on it, and it was fine. Was told all it needs is a oil change, brought it to valvoline and ever since it's been running slow like the transmission isn't switching gears fast enough.
Engine oil or transmission ATF ?
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Atf
Do you think it could be something as simple as fluid or something more serious.
Usually a code scan should reveal any issue with the transmission, but common untrained mistakes like wrong fluid or improper level are things to be aware of
Excellent tutorial
Good video! I have 2 questions: When you unclip the return line, don't you need some plug or etc. in the transmission? There will be a hole in the transmission during the flushing process? And If I have a drain plug on the TC, would it be effective to drain the oil from there also, or it's totally useless because of the flushing? Thanks! :)
Yes There will be a hole, but its gona be like the other vent hole, no danger there.
U can the TC drain, but this method will not only flush the TC, but will remove all the fluid from the complete circuit (valve body, coolers, lines)
5:42 Have you tried Honda's Shin Etsu grease yet? It's even better at doing this than SuperLube et al. Life changing stuff.
Great video guy, lots of good information! Thanks!👍👏👏👏
Wow man...that's how to do a youtube car maintenance video...10/10. Are you based in the UK? I want you to look after my Mercedes.
Thanks for the comment man, unfortunately locTed in Dubai .. cheers
Good video but note: If your car has not been serviced and it’s on up in mileage I don’t recommend ever totally flushing and using all new oil…hence the stories about I got my fluid changed and now my car won’t go
I have been told that if you have a ‘mature’ car (134,00 miles) you should replace the filter, clean pan and magnets and new gasket but capture the original fluid and put back. Not exactly sure but in my lifetime experience it has been flush transmission fluid than change transmission.
Many thanks for video.
Why can’t you change the Transmission fluid if you’re vehicle has high mileage?
The new updated pan works on the older 722.9 & MB recommends switching to that pan and the improved thicker filter but in certain models you still use the red fluid regardless of the pan.
MB states to use red in my ML320 CDI but I am using the new pan, filter, and overflow.
All you need to know is described in the video and the description.
I didn't ask a question I just made a statement but thanks@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY
Oh, and one more question to add to my earlier comment, if you don't mind? My 2014 w212 transmission has stop/ start, and has an electric pump on the transmission which keeps the oil moving, even when the engine is switched of via Start / Stop. Its not a very difficult job to remove this pump ( 2 bolts ) and then rotate the engine until the TC drain stud becomes visible ..but I was wondering if it would be better just to leave the pump in-situ, and disconnect the coolant return pipe and drain from there, 2 litres X 2 Litres..is there any reason why this would not work ? And it would have the advantage of replacing ALL the trans fluid? Thanks for your input / advice,
Jim,
TC drain will only drain the TC, however removing the return line will make sure all the old fluid from inside the valve body/TC/Cooler and cooler pipes is flushed out and not retuned into the pan .
This is not The 7G Tronic MCT 722.9 Plus(Multi-Clutch Technology), (No torque convertor.).
Ive seen dozens of the current video but none with the 722.9 plus transmissions .
would be nice to find one .....
Great video By the way 👏👏👏👏👏👏🎩🎩off..
Hi. Thank you for this awesome video! The only question i have is on the silicone grease. Do you apply it to the bottom side or also to the top and the sides?The reason i ask is that MB document says to ensure the pan and the transmission housing is free from oil and grease. Thank you!
I apply it all around, in such a small amount that it wouldnt cause any issue, its a personal choice, things will be 100% ok without it .
Great Video! I'll be following this video to replace my ML400 (68K) tranny Fluid within next couple of weeks.
Well explained and easy to follow !
Such a calm and informative video, thank you! Is the process and location of bolts on the W211 E320 CDI the same as whats in this video?
All 722.9 are born equal 😂 .. differences are minor differences
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Oh! Thanks for that info, I've decided to learn how to fix/service my own car. I've had my E320 CDI from new since 2003 and still running strong. Now it's the project car - hope I don't break it 😂😂 But without the content you produce we wouldn't be able to carry out such tasks with ease, so thanks for your time and content!!
@@pri2578 2003 is a 722.6 by the way, only a year to late.
Great video with lots of great detail! I have a 2011 E63 AMG w/80k miles with the wet clutch (no torque converter). I plan on replacing the transmission fluid. Do I need to do this procedure or just the typical drain, remove and clean pan/magnets/replace filter/overflow pipe/gasket and refill trans?
Thank you for making this wonderful video. I am about to attempt this "power drain" to get the fluid out of the torque converter and I am wondering why you need to remove and fill in 2 liter increments. If you hooked compressed air to the fill pump then could you not refill the trans at the same rate that it is emptying? It seems to me that you could reach a steady state in=out with a compressor and a valve to control the airflow. Thank you!
Awesome vid. Used this procedure last night on my 2022 Sprinter. One question on the path of the fluid. I assume that if using this method flushes everything the fluid would need to get pumped from the sump, through the TC, then out the cooler line(left side) through the cooler, back in the return line(right side). Is that correct? Thanks
Yes
Maybe I missed it but what was the "secret" you mentioned (@ 5:15) about reusing the old pan bolts? Also is there a possible alternative easier to access return line on some models with 722.9 (at radiator perhaps) that could be used rather than the one on right side of trans? (I'm thinking my 06 e350 of course)
Michael S u gota read the video description .. as well, cant tell for ur car, but it should be easier at the side of the transmission
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Are you referring to the ATF return line o-rings (2) 0199975845 as the 'secret' o-rings?
AeroRamer .. yes
Thanks for the very informative and comprehensive transmission fluid change and flush video. Well done. While watching it, and comparing it to my previous MB with the 722.6 trans, where you could dip and check the fluid via the dipstick / fill pipe, I was thinking if it would be possible to "modify" the pan when it was off the car by adding ( A) a separate drain plug and (B) a dipstick pipe? To put it mildly, it's a pain if you just want to check the fluid level and condition of the fluid, ( you need it off the ground, remove the undertrays, connect the pipe to the drain plug, pump in some extra fluid, and then allow it to drain the excess fluid, ) to the best of my knowledge, their is no sensor in the box to tell you the level via OBD? ( at least in my 2014 E class w212 722.9 anyway) Have you ever heard of this being done?
Thanks again for the great video.
Technically it could be done, however the pan material is soo thin that it could be impossible to weld anything on it .
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY where are you located do you have a shop?
@@MrBigcock1988 Dubai ..
@The Flying MechanicDIY Is line to disconnect from the transmission the oil cooler return line (outlet)? This line would run from the top of the transmission oil cooler to the transmission near the pan? I am looking for a way to verify the line. My 2012 c350 has a slightly different look. Thanks in advance for the help. And great video. Very helpful.
Excellent job. Very well done!
I have a 2006 c230 Sport with 145k miles, I just bought it a couple months ago. The transmission is fine but it slips a bit, not a rough drive though.
My question is, if this oil has not been changed at all in this car, is there a chance it could damage the transmission? I hear nightmare stories from my friends about changing an old transmission fluid and then the transmission wont work again. Thank you for your excellent video!
If there are slipping issues, then replacing the ATF will only make it worse.
Other issues, like jerking can be improved with an ATF change .
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I’ve noticed that it only does it when the engine gets hot, is it because it might be low on fluid? Thanks
@@estebanh33 low fluid effect will be more prominent when cold ..
I would of mention if the transmission has code A89 (Reduce Friction) and non code A89 (non-Friction). You can decoded the VIN# on the internet for free to find out. This will determine if your Transmission fluid use the Blue color (MB ATF 134 FE or MBZ Approval 236.15 (For A89)) or Red color (No A89). The part numbers are different for A89 and non A89 like the filter, Guide Tube, etc.
Its all in video description, including the official MB vin decoder
Nice video. It was very detailed and informative
YES YES YES ive been looking all over I have a 04 SL500 and for some odd reason they said it takes blue I didnt believe it till now thank you so much man video is the best and so far the only lets get him 100000 views all. I do want to ask what is the cheapest blue fluid out there im in Chicago,IL if it helps thanks again dude
There is another method to determine fluid as well, look at the transmission pan from underneath, if it has circles only means red fluid, if it has oval shapes then blue fluid
I wrote u another comment, but youtube decided not to post it .
But let me summarize it.
There are 2 links in the video description, one to input ur VIN number to look for your car build info, if it has code A89 then blue fluid otherwise red.
The other link will give you all available alternate fluids, For blue fluid look for 236.15 specs , for red fluid look for 236.14.
Thanks for your comment
Hello sir, I've some questions if you could answer will be appreciated. What is that oring you talked about? You said remember the oring? Over by the retaining line. When you took that return line off to flush torque converter u added a clear hose in one line, did you block the other end? In this video are you working on a glk350? Thank you for the video
Its a GL500, you dont need to block the other end of the return line, the o-ring is located at the tip of that return line .
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thank you so much for your reply. I will try to do it in my glk350(2015). Under the car looks pretty similar to Mine. Hopefully I will be able to do it by myself
Thanks for this incredible video, how menny litters total did you replace!?
8 i think
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video I watch many time to understand I plane to flush my car have 2012 E 350 4 matic WDDHF8JB5CA522997 how to find out ATF return line. thanks.
Wow..i did not know that when engine is running, transmission oil does not drop down!!
I have the PDF document "AR27.55-P-0100B Flush out automatic transmission and torque converter 19.7.10" and it shows the return flow pipe on the left. The feed line is on the right. On your video the return was on the right. Is it any way to tell the difference so I can remove the correct line on the GLK350? (It has the 722.9). Thanks.
On the 722.9 it is always on the right side .
U can look up the specific entry for ur car on the MB EPC and it will clearly label the right one as the return pipe ..
can you please post as a response to this comment as you were fast in the tools needed- please write the tools with part numbers so newbee like me can easily get the right sockets, allen keys and pump and its fittings- thanks for a well photographed video
The special tools are all in the video description, other than that u will need common hand tools, like torx sockets, inverted torx socket, torque wrench and some ratchets
Hello, this is a good video, but I have a question, the vehicle must be horizontal, but in this case the pan is not horizontal, if the vehicle is horizontal, the pan is inclined. If your pan is horizontal the vehicle is not horizontal.. this hapend because the pan is not horizontal in the vehicle. Please I am confused.. thanks
The vehicle need to be horizontal according to the service manual .. in all cases, a slight incline does not affect the fluid level that much
Thanks
Great video! Well done guys. Just wondering ,why can’t you fill the transmission through the inspection tube ?
Thanks,john
There is no dipstick tube for these transmissions
Yeah Mercedes Wanting it to be harder to do maintenance so they removed it.... super stupid.
Question to all you guys. How do you perform a job replacement like this if you don't have a hydraulic lifter at home?. I would love to do this myself but I only have the jacks that come with cars.
That is almost impossible pro, either a jack and four jack-stands to lift all 4 corners, or if it is an SUV with height control u can raise it all the way up and see if u can work there comfortably.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY😅it is possible but much more difficult, and taking much longer 😂
Excellent video 👍
I didn't realize until I received them, the bolts are aluminum! Have you had any issues breaking them off or being frozen in place do to corrosion from salt/urea de-icing efforts used on the roads in the winter?
Never had an issue with them
The Flying MechanicDIY is located in Dubai. No icy roads there! :-P
😮broke 2 after installing, the ft/lbs is too much for them, thanks is broke outside and eqsy to take out.
Thank you for the video. Can you tell us what year and a model you are working on in this video please?
2012 GL500
Great explanation, and thank you.
So I've got to ask, why do you need to replace a rubber gasket like that? Unless it's cracked or leaking wouldn't it still function? I've reused similar gaskets in my dodges differentials.
U cannot guarantee it wont fail after u re-torque it , and u cant guarantee it will serve another 50k without failing
Hi.Great video!One question.After whole operation, is there any need to adapt the gearbox with computer software?Or just flush and fill and drive happy😆?
No adaptation is required.
Adaptation is only required when replacing the transmission, TCM, solenoids or valve body.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks a lot for the ultra-fast reply😁😁All the best my friend😉
Hi,
I enjoyed watching your video tremendously!
I’ve just picked up a 2012 Mercedes S350 blue TEC; would you know if this 7-speed transmission is equipped with a “Transmission Electrical connector/ adapter” that needs to be replaced when servicing the transmission?.
The reason I ask is that I had to replace the transmission electrical connector on my E55 AMG when changing the transmission fluid in the past.
** Any reply or insight would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
I believe the E55 has the 5 speed 722.6 unlike S350 which has the 7 speed 722.9 .. in both cases there is no requirement to replace the electrical connector if it is not leaking
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY
Thanks for the prompt reply!
My question is: do the 722.9 transmissions have the electrical connector?
You might know because You serviced that transmission. My local Mercedes dealership couldn’t locate that connector in their catalog. The part person doesn’t think there’s one!
Whereas I know the 722.6 transmission has one attached to it.
** I just want to have all the parts on hand ready before servicing the transmission.
Thanks again!
@@tristant8340 it does have a connector attached to the conductor plate/TCM .. so its not sold separate for servicing
Hi.
A great video, it has been very good for me to change my car, which is the same.
A question.
My car does not have the plastic part from which you remove the screws first, just start the video.
It is a square shaped piece of plastics, the one that is left behind, could you give me the reference to order it and put it?
Thank you.
Thanks, im not sure if u mean this part 1645250102
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Yes, that is. Thank you.
What could be the reason on ML 350-2010, few times when putting into recerse, it will make a noise-and little stalking, car has 110kmiles, first heard like 5-10kmiles ago, is not always, once put of 10 times, ussually when leaving the parking after overnight parked. Thanks, in the process of changing oil...
You forgot one thing, Where are you located so I can have you do it. Great video. Dam, i can't afford to ship my car to Jordan. The cost would be to much. lol
Thanks man .. if u r not located within Dubai or Jordan ship it over and will have done for free 🤣 just kidding .. cheers
Great video u did there really heplfull with all the details, i want to flush my C class w205 transmision can you sugest an OBD scaner that i can mesure my transmision temperatur ? Thanks for the content.
Im not aware of any generic OBD tool that can gaurantee reading transmission temp. Sorry
Vary good videos vary informative!!
Great video! Thanks. One question: is there a way to figure out ahead of time if I have the white or black overflow pipe? I am traveling to my daughter to do the work and would like to have all parts ahead of time. I have my build sheet. Does that tell me what overflow pipe/pan that i have?
The best way is to get the part numbers from the mercedes benz parts catalogue, u can call a dealer or find it online.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks for the response. You reference using at Torx 14 for the return line removal. Did you mean 14mm triple square bit? None of the Torx sets come with a T14.
Thanks again
Greg Dickinson, this bolt came in different from car to another and between years.
But in this car it was an E14 size (inverted torx)
Excellent video, super professional presentation!
Question--It appears both my vehicles have converter drains, a 722.908 & 722.966--all but one of my older MBs have also had drains, and I've always drained the converter verses flushing?
The one vehicle I did have to flush, I removed the right return line at the cooler vs at the transmission, it was easier to get to and didn't require new seals.
Thoughts?
I rather always flush, which extract the old fluid from valve body/cooler lines and cooler vs Torque Converter plug which only drains torque converter .
I always did it at the transmission not only for MB but for any other car i work on, few exceptions when it is not accessible, so its ur choice.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY good point-, there's a good liter of fluid trapped in the transmission itself.
My 166.004 has auto stop/start, and the pump is right under the drain access, not happening!
Interesting caveat on this install, the return line has a clamp about 6 inches ahead of the port in the case, well actually both lines do, any way, I had to use a knuckle head ratchet and a short E10 to loosen it enough for the line to come out of the case. The clamp bolt only needed to be loosened enough to allow the line some freedom as the forward end of the line has a flex tube portion for vibration with the engine before it connects to the thermostat block.
Interesting set up, the thermostat block for the cooler is right behind the right engine mount, pulling the return line from the case is thee only viable way to access the return fluid vs the older cars where you could split the flex line right behind the radiator.
very educative. Thank you .regards
My Clk Cdi had the ATF changed by MB at 30.000 from new , it has now done 234, 400
The ATF looks quite good so Il just soldier on.
note you can only reuse the bolts once, after that they will break
Does this apply to 2007 Mercedes E320 with the same transmission 722.9? Drain the torque converter as well? How can I read the temperature of the transmission oil? I don’t have a scanning tool
Thank you in advance! I just subscribed 😁
They are all the same, no way around reading the ATF temp without a scan tool, even a basic one
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY ok thank you sir. I’ll try to do it myself🙃
Do you recommend to flush my 2015 s63 with 23k miles with changing the filter as well or just to change the fluid without opening the oil pan?
23k leave it alone
I understand you don't drain the torque converter because you can replace the oil with fresh oil when tapping the return line. But I can imagine small debree being in the torque converter which is being flushed out with removing the torque converter drain plug..?
Any derbies in the torque converter should make its way out through the cooler line that u tap in.
Amazing video. Where are you guys located at? Would love to use your services. Thanks
Hi alexander, unfortunately i cant offer my services commercially, im a DIYr that offer free services for family, friends and who ever reach me.
Located in Dubai