Only way to improve this Trans video would be to wear Blue gloves ; sometimes the black ones stop one from seeing the parts being handled . Just a thought ! Well done Allen P.
I got a 2001 cuatromatic it didn't want to shift in to the third speed. I really think it has something to do something whit the cilenoides and conductor plate. what do u think. It hasn't run in 3 years😢.
Whoelse spotted that the air tap was already open - at 8'57'' and there was woosh as he connected the air - LOL VERY USEFUL VIDEO - appreciation from old git, UK
Awesome job,I have a 2000 e320 wagon,my transmision shift hard and some gears take longer when it's cold, feels dry,feels like it needs fluid change,I have to let it warm up alot,when the car it's really hot transmision works fantastic!
@@Kermit1910Kermit tak i przeciągała biegi, na początku czasem, ale potem już praktycznie cały czas, winowajca to płyta przewodząca mechatroniki sterownika w skrzyni, nowa wsadzona olej wymieniony i bangla
@@maxioking1508 u mnie jest taki problem ,ze jade i nagle przechodzi w tryb awaryjny nie ma kickdowna w pedale brakuje mocy musze ponownie odpalic auto ...szukam przyczyny co to powoduje
@@Kermit1910Kermit byczku, musisz sprawdzić kompem, bo tak to będziemy razem wróżyć z fusów, porządna diagnostyka i wtedy będziesz wiedział. Czytałem na amerykańskich forach, że ta płyta Czarna pada najczęściej, może też być oring na wtyczce skrzyni, podobne objawy, a oczywiście sprawdź czy są wycieki i ile jest oleju, ta skrzynia dostaje pierdolca jak ma mało oleju. Czekam na info
Great video, thanks for taking the time to post it. I recently ordered and received your kit to change out the conductor plate, filter, gasket, and Connector. I have not done it yet. I have a 2001 Mercedes E320 Sport giving me problems it has 156,000 miles on it. When checked the vehicle indicates a P0715 code "Turbine/Input Shaft Speed Sensor A Circuit". The car was driving well, recently took a trip to Birmingham, AL, and back with no problems. Drove it to work Monday - Wednesday about 60 miles roundtrip. Got in it early that Thursday morning, backed out of my driveway, and started up the street, and I noticed that it seemed to only change out once. So when I got to the main highway I gave it more gas and the engine went into a high rev, and then would no longer pull. So I pulled over and noted that my car would not pull when placed in any gear. So I exited the vehicle to confirm there were no leaks. I turned the car off and cranked it again and nothing changed. So I parked it to later have the vehicle towed to my home. Upon removal from the tow truck, we cranked the vehicle and were able to place it in reverse drove it off the ramp, then into drive, and drove the vehicle down into my driveway. Since then it has been parked. However, I was able to notice that when cracked and the engine is cold the transmission pulls both in reverse and drive, but as the vehicle warms up it has less of a pull when moved to both reverse or drive. All the research I have found pointed me to replacing the conductor plate, input shaft speed sensor, shift solenoids, and a change of filter and fluids. I also found my TCM to be full of fluid. I cleaned it out with contact cleaner. What are your thoughts and what would you suggest I do please sir?
Hi there Paul! Sorry to hear that you got stranded. Sounds like you've got a solid plan to tackle the issue. We agree that it sounds like it may be time for a conductor plate and general refresh (and given your mileage, it would certainly be within the window for expected failure; unlikely to have been replaced previously, but also getting up there in age). In fact, you may not even "need" those shift solenoids; the speed sensing is done by the conductor plate, and unless you find metal debris or cause for greater concern when you drain the fluid and drop the transmission pan, the solenoids will generally be fine. Though, at 156,000 miles, it's never a bad idea to replace them "while you're in there" for peace of mind as they're a bit of a pain to get to! As your engine oil does, transmission oil gets more viscous with temperature; fluid that's hot and at operating temperature will look almost watery compared to fluid at room temperature. Add in the fact that fluid also thins with age, and you likely have your answer as to why the car is most unhappy at operating temperature; the fluid becomes so viscous the system isn't able to operate within the tolerances it was designed to. Freshening things up with a conductor plate replacement and a fluid/filter service will typically do the trick for something speed-sensor related, so you should be good to go with the parts you're planning to order (don't forget a 722.6 transmission dipstick as well! You'll need to order one for the filling process). Unfortunate that the TCM is full of oil, but certainly not uncommon. A lot of the time, cleaning it out as you did will do the trick, pending the amount of fluid that entered the module. If it's still having issues afterwards, a replacement can be done with a 1:1 match of the TCM and is relatively inexpensive. Definitely make sure you replace the pilot bushing during your service to keep any additional fluid from wicking into the TCM, though (if you ordered our 722.6 service kit, this will be included)! Best of luck!
Euro team thanks so much for the reply. Here is my order number to confirm that everything needed except the solenoids. I do have a tranny dipstick. Can you send me a link to the solenoids please? Let me know if you need the vin #.
Very informative video, thanks for posting! I have a ‘99 C230 Kompressor with 297k miles on the original transmission. Only issue I’m noticing is harder shifts when cold, especially 1-2. I’m planning to order the service kit you offer including the conductor plate, etc., but my question is with the high miles do you recommend getting fresh solenoids as well? What else is a good idea to refresh while in there? I do not know when the transmission was serviced last. Thanks!
Hi Colton! We love a good W202! Fluid, filter and conductor plate will generally be good as far as general preventative maintenance goes, assuming you don't have any codes at the moment. If you've noticed shifts flaring between gears, then you may want to consider adding on any/all of the overlap sleeve and spring upgrade kits for the valve body mentioned in this video. If the car is driving normally aside from that 1-2 shift, I wouldn't rush into doing the shift solenoids. The behavior you're noting is somewhat typical of a TCC lock-up solenoid (2402701700) showing its age in a colder climate, often resulting in a very hard feeling "shift" as the converter locks in first gear, followed by an actual shift to second gear moments later. This is an easy "while you're in there," and is relatively inexpensive, whereas replacing the solenoids can quickly tally up to a hefty bill. Hope this helps! Let us know how the car drives following your service. -Danny
Hi how are you ? Thank you for your beautiful, informative videos... I have a big problem. After changing the board, testing the solenoids without pressurizing, complete disassembly of the valves, installation of Sonnax, draining of new BVA and converter...connector to controller, my problem remains the same...box in degraded mode and not more than 3000 revolutions.... It goes from D to R with jerk and does not shift gears... I cannot pressure test the solenoids.... thank you for your help...
Greetin, great video. Question: after replacing the conductor plate on my 1998-2003 Mercedes-Benz ml due a faulty output speed sensor, does my vehicle need be programmed?
Last summer i changed the conductorplate on my 2009 W204 with 722.6 5G tronic but the gearbox still not working properly so i need to change the solenoids and the overlap sleeves to because i think thats the problem, have have two modes on the gearbox, C and S, it will not shift at all in mode C but it is possible to drive the car in mode S only if starting from zero very gently or else it will not shift to second gear. Once it shifts to second gear it works just fine in mode S, until i park and turn of the engine and start it up again, same thing, need to start from zero very gentle. No error codes at all. Once the second gear is in and the oil starts to get warm it works great with kickdowns and shifting properly i mode S. Only gear one seem to work in mode C. Question: Would i replace all solenoids and the three overlap sleeves, or just a few solenoids + all sleeves ?
Hi HearGear! For a 722.6, we'll always recommend double-checking the fluid level as a first course of action, just due to the strange characteristics these gearboxes can exhibit when slightly over- or under-filled. Make sure you're checking it at the Mercedes-recommended 80-deg C. We only got the 722.9 for the W204 here, so yours is a bit of an interesting case. When you replaced parts previously, did you find any debris in the transmission pan? Additionally, did you reset any existing codes when you replaced the conductor plate? I don't believe overlap sleeves are part of the equation in this instance, as issues pertaining to that part of the valve body will generally result in flaring between gear changes. Let me know! -Danny
@@fcpeuro There was no codes in the first place, the level is spot on at 80C, when i bought the car the previous owner had the car for oilchange at a Mercedes dealer car-repairshop so the level was good also before i changed the conductor plate. There was no debris in the pan, when it shifts from gear 1 to 2 its a slight delay like you mentioned in this video, as the engine coming up to temperature the gears in S mode shifts perfect when driving. Most i am thinking the Solenoids because the gearbox does not work at all in Comfort mode, only gear 1, if i am lucky i might get it to shift to second gear it i am super super gentle on the acceleration. Thanks
Hey, I have a 2002 Mercedes ML 320 and I need to upgrade my shift solenoid where to go and buy them. Can you send me a link? I would really appreciate it. Thank you.
Great video. love my 1998 W210 E320 but my 722.6 has been dumping hard into 3rd and sometimes (when cold) not going into 3rd at all. And once in a while sticking in 3rd. After it goes through the gears a couple times it works fine. This video was so informative, I know so much more about how my transmission works and I know to perform this service if I feel it will solve the issues. I'm off the Merc. mechanic to get a proper scan. And then hopefully I get to wrench on my transmission instead of replacing it. wish me luck.
excellent video, I have the same gearbox on the ml 270 TD, it works perfectly both hot and cold, no vibrations, 290 thousand km, I changed the oil, filter and plug, everything is ok but the only problem is between 3rd and 4th gear there is a delay grafting. sometimes it goes up by a few rpm, sometimes by 400/500, sometimes it goes well. They tell me it's a very common problem, what do you think?
I'd give the valve body a bit of love whenever you replace the conductor plate in the future! The 3-to-4 shift is the toughest one for these transmissions and will almost always flare a bit when these are tuned. What you're experiencing may very well just be typical behavior of an older 722.6, but replacing the overlap sleeves as we did in this video with the Sonnax kit can definitely help.
Car will take a jump (just replaced transmission lines. Now once u crank it it will start slipping like limp mode and break light sensor on dash was going off found out wehave a bad battery conductor plate husband says it should crank yeah it should and will, but when the battery conductor plate is burnt up once you replace it does it go back to normal ? Great motor.
hey friend, id be really grateful if you can help me out. i was working on a w210 om606 with 722.6 transmission and i had it running for maybe 10 minutes without transmission fluid, which i didnt know at the time. it was in neutral almost the entire time, but i tried to put it in drive and revved it a couple times. it it possible that did some damage or does it have any kind of safety due to low pressure or something? i would really appreciate a response, thank you. cheers!
Good day, I have a 2008 Mercedes Benz.. brought it to the shop for a service, oil change etc.. one day after the service the car slams into reverse and drive gear, additional the transmission won’t shift out, it’s just driving in 1st gear.. brought it back to the shop, they said it’s the transmission valve body..
Not yet. I have to order the parts. I still hear a high frequency noise while driving and I have to warm up the engine at idle before taking off. Otherwise it gets stuck at first gear ⚙️
so what happens next if after changing the conductor plate and the 6 solenoid to brand new ones and yet the car does not shift to higher gears, what is the next step to check?? The selector switch??? I really am desperate for your technical advise!!! Thanks
@@1R1SHxSN1P3R In the same boat. From what I've read you need a certain scan tool like an icarsoft model to talk directly to the TCM for a reset and not just clear the codes. I've ordered the MBII scanner so we'll see if that's the case. Of course there could be a bunch of other things going on like fluid levels, ATF wicking up wires to the TCM, a bad 13 pin connector, etc etc etc...
So just to confirm the dipstick that you sell for the 722.6 isnt an actual dipstick but a tool to check the fluid level? I need to do a trans service on my 02 c230k as its throwing a couple transmission codes and shifts poorly if it isnt getting stuck. I was given this car and i dont know if the trans was ever serviced
That's correct, the dipstick (FEB-38023 on our site) is solely for checking fluid level and gets removed once you've got your level situated. If the dipstick cap has never been touched before, you may have to break off the red locking pin to remove the transmission tube fill cap to insert your dipstick (though the black tube cap pops right back on top of the tube without the locking pin if you're just checking the level, and our kit includes a new locking pin if you're servicing). As Mercedes generally coins these as "lifetime fill," I wouldn't be surprised if it's due for fluid and a filter as many 722.6 cars are. Don't forget to clear the transmission codes following your service and before you go for the first drive!
Hello from Greece ! I have MERCEDES E200 2008 w211 with 184ps and automatic transmission….i reached today over 450.000 kilometres…….i am servicing my automatic transmission every 60.000 kilometres ….oil , filter , sock …….everything was ultra smooth in all 450.000 kilometres…..3 days ago the car started making something weird at the 3rd gear …..something like stuttering and luck of speed up ……I’m giving power with the gas pedal and it stutters…….in the other gears seems to be good for now ……I think that something is wrong with the torque converter I assume ………any opinions for me to start seeing with a garage ?? Also is that symptom related to torque converter or conductor plate ? Thanks in advance ….
There is no link to the overlap sleeve , like all the other parts. Great video , well explained . You make it look easy like Mario Lemieux played Hockey Thanks !!!
Hi there Spidepig09! Pending the frequency of fluid/filter services and driving style, the conductor plate can be good for as long as 200,000 miles in some cases (~320,000km). Yours has been serviced a good deal more than the vast majority of these "lifetime-filled" transmissions which bodes very well for its longevity. This being said, the worst way to figure out that it's time for a conductor plate replacement is when you're trying to drive somewhere and it isn't cooperating. I'd generally recommend replacing the conductor plate every 100,000-120,000 miles (160,000-190,000km) to be sure that it doesn't leave you stuck on the side of the road. Additionally, check to make sure you don't have transmission fluid entering the TCM through the pilot bushing! It's unfortunately very common on the original factory pilot bushing, and can also strand you. The kit containing everything you need for the service is in the video description. -Danny
Absolute best transmission conductor plate replacement video and I’ve seen them all and done this job a few times on Mercedes and on Range Rovers. never had to change the conductor plate though you Will have to have the new conductor plate. Programed correct?
hello, if my torque converter slips in basically any speed what yoy think would be the issue? TQ changed with another one and does the same....does not llock up and the car is mooving decently at high rpms... thanks
Hi i have an mb 320 cdi whit 722.6 .300tkm on clock good service history i changed atf oil and now i imagen the gearbox slipping more i used fuchs oil 236.14 oil is it to thin?i have also tried whit factory reset
When I drive for 20 minutes in my car, then the gearbox starts to move and only from the third gear? What is that and how I can fix that? Thank you for answer.
Having a code P2107 for Modulating Control Solenoid valve after replacing conductor plate. Does that mean it needs replaced, or could that be a pilot bushing issue?
HI Danny. Both my rear speed sensors fail when I hit 3rd gear. I'm guessing it's the N3 sensor on the conductor plate that's to blame, you think? (SRT8) I've already changed the rear speed sensors and TCM, and it's not fixed the problem...
I have a 1989 Mercedes 300E gasoline vehicle that shakes when in reverse and brakes are applied. Forward gears work normally. Do you think the repair is DIY? If so, please advise parts and instructions.
So pretty much all these transmissions including say from a 2003 SL500 would require 2 solenoids to be changed. if were looking to improve shift time correct?
I have a simple question if I may. 2003 ML500 and I grabbed a Mopar 722.6 TC Lockup Solenoid a bit cheaper as it's the exact same transmission withstanding the TC perhaps. That TC lockup solenoid should fit and function properly on my ML correct? I also grabbed a Transgo shift kit and I'm purchasing an aftermarket modified TCM. This truck is going to tow the city I reside in right! Since I've gone into the transmission anyway, I went with a WIX filter/seal and AMSOIL Sig. ATF/eng. oil. Concerning AMSOIL, I am quite the skeptic about their signature engine oil. It may be fully synthetic but I'm going to confirm or reject that 25k mile oil change they tout. Don't worry, fluids are checked every week, and if the engine oil becomes abrasive, it's getting changed and the mileage will be documented.
Hi there falktv1! As a good "Step One," I'd verify that the Mopar TCC solenoid is the exact same part as the Mercedes part number linked in the description of this video. Yes, the 722.6 was used across a host of Mopar and Mercedes vehicles, but you'll still want to make sure the part you're installing moves the same amount of fluid as the one Mercedes programs for. The Transgo shift kit paired with a TCM tune will be lovely, both for towing and for general driveability. The 5-speed works quite well one woken up a bit. We're always going to recommend using a Mercedes-approved filter and, pointedly, a Mercedes BEVO-rated ATF134 fluid in your transmission, as not going so can cause accelerated wear and damage. Changing fluid ahead of the recommended interval is never a bad idea, so long as the correct fluid is put back in! We have service kits as well as part numbers in the description of this video that will contain everything you need. Best of luck with your service! -Danny
@@fcpeuro One year later and I've been attempting to find specific information on these upgraded pressure solenoids. This information would be helpful in both calculating the increased towing capacity and also helpful with the Ult. NAG52 TCM project. Do you know the spring tension in the upgraded solenoids? Do you know the tension of the OEM solenoids? Thanks for the initial feedback! I ultimately went back to the OEM TCC solenoid just to be certain without worrying about compatibility of the Mopar part.
Just tried this on my SLK R170. Word of warning, 4 of the 6 sump bolts snapped, despite spraying them, hitting them, and trying an induction heater on them. So bank on plenty of extra time. It was already touch and go getting the drain plug out. 😢
FCP, we appreciate your time and work, thank you very much... Am driving a w203 Mercedese Year 2001, but am still confused on how many liters of oil do i have to put in my transmission. I did my gear box service, changed the oil, oil filter, seal and the Automatic Transmission Conductor Adapter Plug and now my car does not change gears. What could be the problem ? Thanks for your support.
Hi there! A couple of possibilities here, but a good first step would be scanning the transmission to see what codes exist. A first step would be to use your 722.6-specific oil dipstick to check your fluid level (we have a video about how to check the fluid level on your 722.6 with Kyle if you're uncertain), as a low fluid level will almost always result in either an inability to move forward or a "limp mode" when trying to gain speed. Fluid on refill can vary from several liters if you do a full drain like I did with the CTA tool, to around 4 if you did not. From there, I'd recommend backtracking. Make sure the plug for the transmission computer is fully seated and the TCU itself doesn't have any fluid inside of the plugs. If all of these are done and the car still won't drive, you may want to consider dropping the pan again to make sure that the shifting dowel pin is slotted back into the shifter bracket. Most commonly though, the cause of this is too little fluid. It's very common for owners to complete the service, refill the transmission, start the vehicle and go for a drive. With each time the vehicle shifts and the converter engages/disengages, fluid will circulate and the level will drop. This is why there's a recommended procedure to the fluid refill. Hope this helps! -Danny
Thanks a lot for this fantastic video! I have one question: does the solenoid upgrade also work in a 722.9 transmission? It is a 7G Tronic, not 7G Tronic Plus. Thanks a lot!
If I get all new Silinoids do they have to be programmed at the end ? I ask since you said the old ones have to go back in the same spot
8 หลายเดือนก่อน
Hi! Someone before me already described a similar error, if the shift between 1st and 2nd gear is harder when cold, and when rolling slowly sometimes it seems to suddenly shift down and up, could the TCC lock-up solenoid be at fault?
Hello I just recently did my conductor plate service but I feel liKe I put the brown tips in the wrong location because the code that I’m still receiving is a pressure solenoid B code. Is there anyway you can help me with information? I see that the serial says B1 & B2 on the parts, but which one would be the defective/misplaced one ?
Hi there! I had meant 20, 8 NM for the sake of this DIY. The vast majority will be around 8NM as you see in the video (or "snug" for those without a torque wrench trustworthy at such low measurements), but the drain plug for the pan is 20NM.
Hello A paper towel should not be used when checking the automatic oil. Always check with a piece of leather. (a leather, for example, with which the car is leathered after washing)
Hi Ahmed! While we don't have a conductor plate replacement video for the 722.9 just yet (the transmission computer being integrated into the conductor plate and requiring coding after replacement makes it a bit trickier) we do have a comprehensive 722.9 fluid/filter service video published! Just search our channel to find Kyle's DIY guide. -Danny
Hi. I have a problem with mi W203 Mercedes 220. I have a problem with the 722.6 gearbox, namely a 2nd gear remains blocked (error P2561). I changed the conductor plate, the oil, the filter, I measured the resistance of the solenoids and they are within the parameters, but the problem persists. The oil level is ok. What else could I check? I'm from europe.
Finally a 722.6 Service video from a company I can trust!
Only way to improve this Trans video would be to wear Blue gloves ; sometimes the black ones stop one from seeing the parts being handled . Just a thought ! Well done Allen P.
Thank you for the note; something to consider for sure!
I got a 2001 cuatromatic it didn't want to shift in to the third speed. I really think it has something to do something whit the cilenoides and conductor plate. what do u think. It hasn't run in 3 years😢.
@@joseg.8589change the whole gearbox! It costs less to replace than repair!
Absolutely priceless clip, thanks for uploading this!
This guy is a Master mechanic with a HUGE capital "M"!
My 2004 CLK320 had 9 bolts holding the plate. And 4 liters of oil was more than enough. Very good video though - it took me through it step by step.
I was just looking at doing this to my C32 AMG, you guys are the best in the business!
just did some videos on my C55
Lol same :)
Im also gonna do this on my c32 but i have a feeling the tcc might be cooked bc it had so much slip under load bc it went into limp
09:38 - The 2 guys in the background looking on in awe.😂😂
Whoelse spotted that the air tap was already open - at 8'57'' and there was woosh as he connected the air - LOL
VERY USEFUL VIDEO - appreciation from old git, UK
at 23:00 you talk about at cold weather jerk with 1-2 shift that is the torque converter locking up. I have this happening. What is the solution?
Awesome job,I have a 2000 e320 wagon,my transmision shift hard and some gears take longer when it's cold, feels dry,feels like it needs fluid change,I have to let it warm up alot,when the car it's really hot transmision works fantastic!
Great video as usual from FCP and the gang.
Thanks this is super helpful! At the advice of some forum members I am doing this to my 2001 Jaguar XJR which thankfully uses the same transmission.
Nice work!
Chłopie, życie mi uratowałeś tym filmem, dzięki tobie naprawiłem sobie skrzynie !
Równy z ciebie gość, oby tak dalej, z fartem
Miales problem ,ze skrzynia przechodzila w tryb awaryjny?
@@Kermit1910Kermit tak i przeciągała biegi, na początku czasem, ale potem już praktycznie cały czas, winowajca to płyta przewodząca mechatroniki sterownika w skrzyni, nowa wsadzona olej wymieniony i bangla
@@maxioking1508 u mnie jest taki problem ,ze jade i nagle przechodzi w tryb awaryjny nie ma kickdowna w pedale brakuje mocy musze ponownie odpalic auto ...szukam przyczyny co to powoduje
@@Kermit1910Kermit byczku, musisz sprawdzić kompem, bo tak to będziemy razem wróżyć z fusów, porządna diagnostyka i wtedy będziesz wiedział. Czytałem na amerykańskich forach, że ta płyta Czarna pada najczęściej, może też być oring na wtyczce skrzyni, podobne objawy, a oczywiście sprawdź czy są wycieki i ile jest oleju, ta skrzynia dostaje pierdolca jak ma mało oleju. Czekam na info
@@Kermit1910Kermit kom mi się nie opublikował, teraz zobaczyłem, wybacz
This is great stuff, thanks for the extra explanations, now if I can convince my local transmission centre to do this for me.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to post it. I recently ordered and received your kit to change out the conductor plate, filter, gasket, and Connector. I have not done it yet. I have a 2001 Mercedes E320 Sport giving me problems it has 156,000 miles on it. When checked the vehicle indicates a P0715 code "Turbine/Input Shaft Speed Sensor A Circuit".
The car was driving well, recently took a trip to Birmingham, AL, and back with no problems. Drove it to work Monday - Wednesday about 60 miles roundtrip. Got in it early that Thursday morning, backed out of my driveway, and started up the street, and I noticed that it seemed to only change out once. So when I got to the main highway I gave it more gas and the engine went into a high rev, and then would no longer pull. So I pulled over and noted that my car would not pull when placed in any gear. So I exited the vehicle to confirm there were no leaks.
I turned the car off and cranked it again and nothing changed. So I parked it to later have the vehicle towed to my home. Upon removal from the tow truck, we cranked the vehicle and were able to place it in reverse drove it off the ramp, then into drive, and drove the vehicle down into my driveway. Since then it has been parked. However, I was able to notice that when cracked and the engine is cold the transmission pulls both in reverse and drive, but as the vehicle warms up it has less of a pull when moved to both reverse or drive.
All the research I have found pointed me to replacing the conductor plate, input shaft speed sensor, shift solenoids, and a change of filter and fluids. I also found my TCM to be full of fluid. I cleaned it out with contact cleaner. What are your thoughts and what would you suggest I do please sir?
Hi there Paul! Sorry to hear that you got stranded.
Sounds like you've got a solid plan to tackle the issue. We agree that it sounds like it may be time for a conductor plate and general refresh (and given your mileage, it would certainly be within the window for expected failure; unlikely to have been replaced previously, but also getting up there in age). In fact, you may not even "need" those shift solenoids; the speed sensing is done by the conductor plate, and unless you find metal debris or cause for greater concern when you drain the fluid and drop the transmission pan, the solenoids will generally be fine. Though, at 156,000 miles, it's never a bad idea to replace them "while you're in there" for peace of mind as they're a bit of a pain to get to!
As your engine oil does, transmission oil gets more viscous with temperature; fluid that's hot and at operating temperature will look almost watery compared to fluid at room temperature. Add in the fact that fluid also thins with age, and you likely have your answer as to why the car is most unhappy at operating temperature; the fluid becomes so viscous the system isn't able to operate within the tolerances it was designed to. Freshening things up with a conductor plate replacement and a fluid/filter service will typically do the trick for something speed-sensor related, so you should be good to go with the parts you're planning to order (don't forget a 722.6 transmission dipstick as well! You'll need to order one for the filling process).
Unfortunate that the TCM is full of oil, but certainly not uncommon. A lot of the time, cleaning it out as you did will do the trick, pending the amount of fluid that entered the module. If it's still having issues afterwards, a replacement can be done with a 1:1 match of the TCM and is relatively inexpensive. Definitely make sure you replace the pilot bushing during your service to keep any additional fluid from wicking into the TCM, though (if you ordered our 722.6 service kit, this will be included)!
Best of luck!
Euro team thanks so much for the reply. Here is my order number to confirm that everything needed except the solenoids. I do have a tranny dipstick. Can you send me a link to the solenoids please? Let me know if you need the vin #.
Very informative video, thanks for posting! I have a ‘99 C230 Kompressor with 297k miles on the original transmission. Only issue I’m noticing is harder shifts when cold, especially 1-2. I’m planning to order the service kit you offer including the conductor plate, etc., but my question is with the high miles do you recommend getting fresh solenoids as well? What else is a good idea to refresh while in there? I do not know when the transmission was serviced last. Thanks!
Hi Colton! We love a good W202!
Fluid, filter and conductor plate will generally be good as far as general preventative maintenance goes, assuming you don't have any codes at the moment. If you've noticed shifts flaring between gears, then you may want to consider adding on any/all of the overlap sleeve and spring upgrade kits for the valve body mentioned in this video.
If the car is driving normally aside from that 1-2 shift, I wouldn't rush into doing the shift solenoids. The behavior you're noting is somewhat typical of a TCC lock-up solenoid (2402701700) showing its age in a colder climate, often resulting in a very hard feeling "shift" as the converter locks in first gear, followed by an actual shift to second gear moments later. This is an easy "while you're in there," and is relatively inexpensive, whereas replacing the solenoids can quickly tally up to a hefty bill.
Hope this helps! Let us know how the car drives following your service.
-Danny
Hi how are you ? Thank you for your beautiful, informative videos... I have a big problem. After changing the board, testing the solenoids without pressurizing, complete disassembly of the valves, installation of Sonnax, draining of new BVA and converter...connector to controller, my problem remains the same...box in degraded mode and not more than 3000 revolutions.... It goes from D to R with jerk and does not shift gears... I cannot pressure test the solenoids.... thank you for your help...
Hello did you find out what it was your problem?
@@Στεφανος-σ7λ its indispensable to way by Mercedes Box.... thanks
Just threw a p0720 code in my C240, planning on changing the conductor plate. Thanks for the help guys!!
Good luck, you got this!
Ohh my... Thank you!!! I'm just about to do some work on my 2001 E320 with this same transmission 🥳🥳🥳👍
Good luck, Hajile! Let us know if you ended up staying cleaner than I did!
-Danny
just did some videos on my C55
Thanks, this was very helpful!
The best video in TH-cam thank you
Greetin, great video. Question: after replacing the conductor plate on my 1998-2003 Mercedes-Benz ml due a faulty output speed sensor, does my vehicle need be programmed?
Enjoyed the Tutorial. I always get good info from you guys..
Hey, where can I order the blue top solenoid? Can you help me?
Is there a way to make fluid go into the adapter for the flush instead of air?
Last summer i changed the conductorplate on my 2009 W204 with 722.6 5G tronic but the gearbox still not working properly so i need to change the solenoids and the overlap sleeves to because i think thats the problem, have have two modes on the gearbox, C and S, it will not shift at all in mode C but it is possible to drive the car in mode S only if starting from zero very gently or else it will not shift to second gear. Once it shifts to second gear it works just fine in mode S, until i park and turn of the engine and start it up again, same thing, need to start from zero very gentle. No error codes at all. Once the second gear is in and the oil starts to get warm it works great with kickdowns and shifting properly i mode S. Only gear one seem to work in mode C. Question: Would i replace all solenoids and the three overlap sleeves, or just a few solenoids + all sleeves ?
Hi HearGear! For a 722.6, we'll always recommend double-checking the fluid level as a first course of action, just due to the strange characteristics these gearboxes can exhibit when slightly over- or under-filled. Make sure you're checking it at the Mercedes-recommended 80-deg C.
We only got the 722.9 for the W204 here, so yours is a bit of an interesting case. When you replaced parts previously, did you find any debris in the transmission pan? Additionally, did you reset any existing codes when you replaced the conductor plate?
I don't believe overlap sleeves are part of the equation in this instance, as issues pertaining to that part of the valve body will generally result in flaring between gear changes.
Let me know!
-Danny
@@fcpeuro There was no codes in the first place, the level is spot on at 80C, when i bought the car the previous owner had the car for oilchange at a Mercedes dealer car-repairshop so the level was good also before i changed the conductor plate. There was no debris in the pan, when it shifts from gear 1 to 2 its a slight delay like you mentioned in this video, as the engine coming up to temperature the gears in S mode shifts perfect when driving. Most i am thinking the Solenoids because the gearbox does not work at all in Comfort mode, only gear 1, if i am lucky i might get it to shift to second gear it i am super super gentle on the acceleration. Thanks
Hey, I have a 2002 Mercedes ML 320 and I need to upgrade my shift solenoid where to go and buy them. Can you send me a link? I would really appreciate it. Thank you.
Link is in the description!
Great video. love my 1998 W210 E320 but my 722.6 has been dumping hard into 3rd and sometimes (when cold) not going into 3rd at all. And once in a while sticking in 3rd. After it goes through the gears a couple times it works fine. This video was so informative, I know so much more about how my transmission works and I know to perform this service if I feel it will solve the issues. I'm off the Merc. mechanic to get a proper scan. And then hopefully I get to wrench on my transmission instead of replacing it. wish me luck.
Best of luck with this endeavor, Adam!
To check the level you don’t need to introduce completely the stick?
Excellent 🎊 methodical and comprehensive
Thank you 🙏
Learned a lot
I am planning to do this.
excellent video, I have the same gearbox on the ml 270 TD, it works perfectly both hot and cold, no vibrations, 290 thousand km, I changed the oil, filter and plug, everything is ok but the only problem is between 3rd and 4th gear there is a delay grafting. sometimes it goes up by a few rpm, sometimes by 400/500, sometimes it goes well. They tell me it's a very common problem, what do you think?
I'd give the valve body a bit of love whenever you replace the conductor plate in the future! The 3-to-4 shift is the toughest one for these transmissions and will almost always flare a bit when these are tuned. What you're experiencing may very well just be typical behavior of an older 722.6, but replacing the overlap sleeves as we did in this video with the Sonnax kit can definitely help.
Superb video!
To remove the adapter plug to the connector to the conductor plate, do the transmission pan need to be removed first,
You'll want to drain the fluid first so as not to make a mess, but the pan can stay on
Car will take a jump (just replaced transmission lines. Now once u crank it it will start slipping like limp mode and break light sensor on dash was going off found out wehave a bad battery conductor plate husband says it should crank yeah it should and will, but when the battery conductor plate is burnt up once you replace it does it go back to normal ? Great motor.
hey friend, id be really grateful if you can help me out. i was working on a w210 om606 with 722.6 transmission and i had it running for maybe 10 minutes without transmission fluid, which i didnt know at the time. it was in neutral almost the entire time, but i tried to put it in drive and revved it a couple times. it it possible that did some damage or does it have any kind of safety due to low pressure or something? i would really appreciate a response, thank you. cheers!
I can't send pictures but it's the elec gear shifter ? 6:41
Great instructional vid.. any suggestions or directions to 722.6 fault, 3 sec delay from neutral to drive shift. No codes. Once in drive, no issues.
thanks for the video!
Whats the part number and where can i find the new overlap sleeves?
Is that will work on sprinter van with that transmission
Very well done!!! A Very Informative video! Thank You FCPeuro))
Thank you, Besik!
would it work on my 2005 clk 320?
Good day, I have a 2008 Mercedes Benz.. brought it to the shop for a service, oil change etc.. one day after the service the car slams into reverse and drive gear, additional the transmission won’t shift out, it’s just driving in 1st gear.. brought it back to the shop, they said it’s the transmission valve body..
Great video
is there any performance benefit here, or just maintenance?
Not yet. I have to order the parts. I still hear a high frequency noise while driving and I have to warm up the engine at idle before taking off. Otherwise it gets stuck at first gear ⚙️
Just for clarity, the CTS tool only pushes fluid from the valve body, not the torque converter?
Great explanation but after replacing the conductor plate for 2007 Chrysler 300C 5.7l do you need to program the TCM??
Thank you
Thank you. Was double checking if the valve body was 8 Nm
Just got My 722.6 out of limp mode shifts okay but can’t use manual shift mode what gives?
Must be year of conductor plate going out or just me??? Very informative video thank you FCP euro
so what happens next if after changing the conductor plate and the 6 solenoid to brand new ones and yet the car does not shift to higher gears, what is the next step to check?? The selector switch??? I really am desperate for your technical advise!!! Thanks
Hello did you find out what it was the problem?
Because I am in same situation.
Thanks
@@Στεφανος-σ7λsame. Reset codes and still stuck in limp mode.
@@1R1SHxSN1P3R In the same boat. From what I've read you need a certain scan tool like an icarsoft model to talk directly to the TCM for a reset and not just clear the codes. I've ordered the MBII scanner so we'll see if that's the case.
Of course there could be a bunch of other things going on like fluid levels, ATF wicking up wires to the TCM, a bad 13 pin connector, etc etc etc...
So just to confirm the dipstick that you sell for the 722.6 isnt an actual dipstick but a tool to check the fluid level? I need to do a trans service on my 02 c230k as its throwing a couple transmission codes and shifts poorly if it isnt getting stuck. I was given this car and i dont know if the trans was ever serviced
That's correct, the dipstick (FEB-38023 on our site) is solely for checking fluid level and gets removed once you've got your level situated. If the dipstick cap has never been touched before, you may have to break off the red locking pin to remove the transmission tube fill cap to insert your dipstick (though the black tube cap pops right back on top of the tube without the locking pin if you're just checking the level, and our kit includes a new locking pin if you're servicing). As Mercedes generally coins these as "lifetime fill," I wouldn't be surprised if it's due for fluid and a filter as many 722.6 cars are.
Don't forget to clear the transmission codes following your service and before you go for the first drive!
Do all 722.6 transmissions use the same conductor plate? Ie would the CL600 trans use the same conductor plate as an ML 270 D ?
All the same even AMG
Would this upgrade be beneficial for a 2006 E320 CDI? Thank you for you good work, Sir!
Hello from Greece !
I have MERCEDES E200 2008 w211 with 184ps and automatic transmission….i reached today over 450.000 kilometres…….i am servicing my automatic transmission every 60.000 kilometres ….oil , filter , sock …….everything was ultra smooth in all 450.000 kilometres…..3 days ago the car started making something weird at the 3rd gear …..something like stuttering and luck of speed up ……I’m giving power with the gas pedal and it stutters…….in the other gears seems to be good for now ……I think that something is wrong with the torque converter I assume ………any opinions for me to start seeing with a garage ?? Also is that symptom related to torque converter or conductor plate ? Thanks in advance ….
What is the upgrade, what does it improve?
idk
There is no link to the overlap sleeve , like all the other parts.
Great video , well explained . You make it look easy like Mario Lemieux played Hockey
Thanks !!!
It's a kit from Sonnax (Part 68942-05K). I don't think FCP Euro sells it. I got mine from another online vendor.
Why did nt you knock the over flow tube over with a screw driver?
At what mileage would you recommend changing the conductor plate? Mine has 184000km, and trans has been serviced at 61000km and 150000km
Hi there Spidepig09! Pending the frequency of fluid/filter services and driving style, the conductor plate can be good for as long as 200,000 miles in some cases (~320,000km). Yours has been serviced a good deal more than the vast majority of these "lifetime-filled" transmissions which bodes very well for its longevity. This being said, the worst way to figure out that it's time for a conductor plate replacement is when you're trying to drive somewhere and it isn't cooperating.
I'd generally recommend replacing the conductor plate every 100,000-120,000 miles (160,000-190,000km) to be sure that it doesn't leave you stuck on the side of the road. Additionally, check to make sure you don't have transmission fluid entering the TCM through the pilot bushing! It's unfortunately very common on the original factory pilot bushing, and can also strand you. The kit containing everything you need for the service is in the video description.
-Danny
@@fcpeuro thanks for the detailed answer!
My conductor plate speed sensors failed after 107,000 km and 17 years.
Absolute best transmission conductor plate replacement video and I’ve seen them all and done this job a few times on Mercedes and on Range Rovers. never had to change the conductor plate though you Will have to have the new conductor plate. Programed correct?
Where do you get the dip stick ? Mine has just a cap u take it off and there isn’t a dip stick …
Where can I get all these parts in Europe? Great video - thanks!
hello,
if my torque converter slips in basically any speed what yoy think would be the issue? TQ changed with another one and does the same....does not llock up and the car is mooving decently at high rpms...
thanks
Will this blue top upgrade adversely effect a non amg cl 500 with the 722.6 without a tune?
Hi i have an mb 320 cdi whit 722.6 .300tkm on clock good service history i changed atf oil and now i imagen the gearbox slipping more i used fuchs oil 236.14 oil is it to thin?i have also tried whit factory reset
When I drive for 20 minutes in my car, then the gearbox starts to move and only from the third gear? What is that and how I can fix that? Thank you for answer.
Also could you tell me were to get that sleeve you replaced on the valve body?
Anyone else wonder why there’s no thread lock on the T3 bolt holding the valve body to the transmission?
Having a code P2107 for Modulating Control Solenoid valve after replacing conductor plate. Does that mean it needs replaced, or could that be a pilot bushing issue?
HI Danny. Both my rear speed sensors fail when I hit 3rd gear.
I'm guessing it's the N3 sensor on the conductor plate that's to blame, you think? (SRT8)
I've already changed the rear speed sensors and TCM, and it's not fixed the problem...
Same like me
@@sifisodmagagula8699it was the rings.
please do one for 722.9!
I have a 1989 Mercedes 300E gasoline vehicle that shakes when in reverse and brakes are applied. Forward gears work normally. Do you think the repair is DIY? If so, please advise parts and instructions.
Is it necessary to reprogram when replacing the electronic board?
So pretty much all these transmissions including say from a 2003 SL500 would require 2 solenoids to be changed. if were looking to improve shift time correct?
I have a simple question if I may. 2003 ML500 and I grabbed a Mopar 722.6 TC Lockup Solenoid a bit cheaper as it's the exact same transmission withstanding the TC perhaps. That TC lockup solenoid should fit and function properly on my ML correct? I also grabbed a Transgo shift kit and I'm purchasing an aftermarket modified TCM. This truck is going to tow the city I reside in right! Since I've gone into the transmission anyway, I went with a WIX filter/seal and AMSOIL Sig. ATF/eng. oil. Concerning AMSOIL, I am quite the skeptic about their signature engine oil. It may be fully synthetic but I'm going to confirm or reject that 25k mile oil change they tout. Don't worry, fluids are checked every week, and if the engine oil becomes abrasive, it's getting changed and the mileage will be documented.
Hi there falktv1! As a good "Step One," I'd verify that the Mopar TCC solenoid is the exact same part as the Mercedes part number linked in the description of this video. Yes, the 722.6 was used across a host of Mopar and Mercedes vehicles, but you'll still want to make sure the part you're installing moves the same amount of fluid as the one Mercedes programs for.
The Transgo shift kit paired with a TCM tune will be lovely, both for towing and for general driveability. The 5-speed works quite well one woken up a bit. We're always going to recommend using a Mercedes-approved filter and, pointedly, a Mercedes BEVO-rated ATF134 fluid in your transmission, as not going so can cause accelerated wear and damage.
Changing fluid ahead of the recommended interval is never a bad idea, so long as the correct fluid is put back in! We have service kits as well as part numbers in the description of this video that will contain everything you need.
Best of luck with your service!
-Danny
@@fcpeuro One year later and I've been attempting to find specific information on these upgraded pressure solenoids. This information would be helpful in both calculating the increased towing capacity and also helpful with the Ult. NAG52 TCM project.
Do you know the spring tension in the upgraded solenoids?
Do you know the tension of the OEM solenoids?
Thanks for the initial feedback! I ultimately went back to the OEM TCC solenoid just to be certain without worrying about compatibility of the Mopar part.
How common is it for the solenoids to go bad , my car would slip a lot before it went into full limp mode so maybe the TCC Any benz wizards?
Just tried this on my SLK R170. Word of warning, 4 of the 6 sump bolts snapped, despite spraying them, hitting them, and trying an induction heater on them. So bank on plenty of extra time. It was already touch and go getting the drain plug out. 😢
FCP, we appreciate your time and work, thank you very much... Am driving a w203 Mercedese Year 2001, but am still confused on how many liters of oil do i have to put in my transmission.
I did my gear box service, changed the oil, oil filter, seal and the Automatic Transmission Conductor Adapter Plug and now my car does not change gears.
What could be the problem ?
Thanks for your support.
Hi there! A couple of possibilities here, but a good first step would be scanning the transmission to see what codes exist.
A first step would be to use your 722.6-specific oil dipstick to check your fluid level (we have a video about how to check the fluid level on your 722.6 with Kyle if you're uncertain), as a low fluid level will almost always result in either an inability to move forward or a "limp mode" when trying to gain speed. Fluid on refill can vary from several liters if you do a full drain like I did with the CTA tool, to around 4 if you did not.
From there, I'd recommend backtracking. Make sure the plug for the transmission computer is fully seated and the TCU itself doesn't have any fluid inside of the plugs. If all of these are done and the car still won't drive, you may want to consider dropping the pan again to make sure that the shifting dowel pin is slotted back into the shifter bracket.
Most commonly though, the cause of this is too little fluid. It's very common for owners to complete the service, refill the transmission, start the vehicle and go for a drive. With each time the vehicle shifts and the converter engages/disengages, fluid will circulate and the level will drop. This is why there's a recommended procedure to the fluid refill.
Hope this helps!
-Danny
Thanks a lot for this fantastic video! I have one question: does the solenoid upgrade also work in a 722.9 transmission? It is a 7G Tronic, not 7G Tronic Plus. Thanks a lot!
Does this tutorial applies to a w202 c180 1998? It has the 722.6 transmission
If I get all new Silinoids do they have to be programmed at the end ? I ask since you said the old ones have to go back in the same spot
Hi!
Someone before me already described a similar error, if the shift between 1st and 2nd gear is harder when cold, and when rolling slowly sometimes it seems to suddenly shift down and up, could the TCC lock-up solenoid be at fault?
Hello.why will this transmission not comunicate with my obd2 tool? My reader is a snap on solus.but it can not comunicate with the transmission.
Where is your shop located and do you work on sprinter vans?
Does the 722.6 have the same bolt pattern as the nag1??
Hello I just recently did my conductor plate service but I feel liKe I put the brown tips in the wrong location because the code that I’m still receiving is a pressure solenoid B code. Is there anyway you can help me with information? I see that the serial says B1 & B2 on the parts, but which one would be the defective/misplaced one ?
I saw an other video from your Chanel about checking the level with another tech and he did that with engine idled so now I’m confused
Hello how do I test this 2001 320 slk 😅
Great video. How can I tell what transmission i have? I got an 2006 E350 3.5 liter 4matic sedan
What is the technical name for that part that you changed for the “overlap piston”??
Great video! Makes me think why EVs are boring Maintanence wise. 😳
Love this video felt like I was in school question got a 2000 e320 station wagon can I up grade to blue tops with out a tune 🗽🇹🇹
Other than the beginning there is no further reference to 28NM torque. Pan bolts perhaps? Valve body?
Hi there! I had meant 20, 8 NM for the sake of this DIY. The vast majority will be around 8NM as you see in the video (or "snug" for those without a torque wrench trustworthy at such low measurements), but the drain plug for the pan is 20NM.
Good job
Hello
A paper towel should not be used when checking the automatic oil.
Always check with a piece of leather.
(a leather, for example, with which the car is leathered after washing)
I use coffee filters
Where did u get that tool to blow the oil out
What’s the average cost of this job
Can u make video for 722.9
Hi Ahmed! While we don't have a conductor plate replacement video for the 722.9 just yet (the transmission computer being integrated into the conductor plate and requiring coding after replacement makes it a bit trickier) we do have a comprehensive 722.9 fluid/filter service video published! Just search our channel to find Kyle's DIY guide.
-Danny
Hi. I have a problem with mi W203 Mercedes 220. I have a problem with the 722.6 gearbox, namely a 2nd gear remains blocked (error P2561). I changed the conductor plate, the oil, the filter, I measured the resistance of the solenoids and they are within the parameters, but the problem persists. The oil level is ok. What else could I check? I'm from europe.
It's probably one of the solenoids which might have gotten stuck.