Or you can also send the power cable down the inner left gantry post to hide the power cable from view. It’s a little more fiddly but if you’re going to the effort of putting a filament sensor on the se you can do both in one.
meh. Not worth the effort. The Creality video shows this method, despite the manual showing the method I went with. I went with the manual method. Not messing with my working build, for a light, and I'd rather my Noobish peeps, not either. My more experience peeps, are gonna do it however they want anyways, or, mode the crud out of it. 😂😂 I usually remove sensors, instead of install them. 😜
@@3DRundown You can pull the wire through the post using a length of filament and some tape. That way, the only thing to remove is the top brace, rather than the whole post.
@@3DRundownI made the mistake of watching Creality's original install video, and has the entire gantry removed and parts falling everywhere before reassembling and finding your video. I can't tell you how much yours helped. The official creality video is so deeply unhelpful that it's bordering on malice.
@@andydingley4966I got mine down without much effort, no need for pulling. Same with the sensor. Just kinda pushed it down gently and grabbed the end with tweezers when it was at the end.
Thanks. Installation done. Just one edit. You say the thru-hole is on the back right. It's really on the back left. Probably because you had it turned around you said right. Now to design and print a clip to put into that hole that snaps in and holds the wire kind a tight, and a light bar cover as it's really bright while I'm sitting at my desk.
Excellent job on showing how to connect the wires in the motherboard, helped me out a ton. I did a different strategy than you did or that @mdeshon mentioned in your comments below - I took off the plastic parts off of the wires of the light using an exacto blade, and on the side of the light switch, I fed the wire in the leftmost tiny ridge-gaps on the gantry surface (not within the gantry itself - there was zero removal of the top plate holding the filament sensor or the gantry) and through a small gap present on the Z motors - it is extremely flush, required no disassembly besides the under panel for hardwiring into the motherboard and the four screws for actually attaching the thing. That being said, it was a PAIN to feed that wire through, and I also had to add a few mm of electrical tape to the ends of the + and - wires so that the live points didn't contact each other when screwing them into the motherboard because of removing the plastic bits. It works fantastically though! Thank you again. -SR
Very cool. While it's fun to go super nova nerd, For me, I have to try to go a route that the masses can understand, and do themselves. If I overcomplicate, I cut out large audiences. Very welcome. Good to have you
Dude, your instalation guides are simply the best around, would you be be able to do one on the instalation of the Creality auxiliary cooling fans too? those that go in the back of the X gantry.
Hey brother. Thanks so much. I put allot of work into these. I'd love too, but, I don't have one, and it's just not possible to buy it all, or request it all from Creality (though it would benefit them!). Are you referring to this one? store.creality.com/products/fan-cooling-kit Make you a deal.... Venmo me the $27 it would take me to buy one, and I'll get it and make a video on it. Which machine you looking for me to install it on? Double check the site for compatibility.
@@3DRundown Yeah, this one exactly, I'd make that deal, just need work out this Venmo business works. But I was looking to install it on the E3 V3 KE and it doesn't seem to be compatible. :/ Shame, the AliExpress listing I saw said it was compatible.
Venmo is super cool. Very easy, very mainstream these days. You'll be surprised to see how many of your contacts are on it. Check it out. As for the fan, yea, it's meant for the S1 line.
Nice video, thank you. One question…. Nothing holds the wire out of the way of the Z axis roller. Is there anything that keeps it from getting pinched in there during printing? Or, is this just something that is not able to issue?
The BDM dungeon is still where I shoot most of my stuff. 😂😂 This dirty room separator was $15 at Salvation army, and let's me shoot some simple stuff in my office without lugging machines around. I'd love one for my Dungeon. Got $100 for me? 😉
I'm terrified of the idea of having to remove the bottom plate of my printer. It works so well and I feel like Creality printers know when you fiddle with anything at all that you're not completely confident in and they respond to that lack of confidence by breaking somewhere completely unrelated. My first print was the s1 pro which I loved for about 6 months when all of a sudden I couldn't get the bugger to level properly and gave up on 3d printing until I got the KE several months ago. The only thing I can really complain about the KE other than the usual bumps learning and adjusting to a new printer (particularly with also having to adjust to a new slicer to make it work at its best) is that it doesn't have a light pre-installed. This doesn't look particularly difficult, but neither did replacing the joysticks in my kids ps4 controllers until all of the fiddly tiny parts kept breaking instead of doing what the videos demonstrated they were meant to do...not sure if I should give it a go or not. 🤔
Working on your printer in all ways, is something you absolutely want to become comfortable with. Opening up, to see the mb, is a normal thing in our world. Take your time, and Go for it. As for the S1, I have a very detailed tune up video, and leveling video. Follow them both with me, and get that s1 back in service
Love your video! So how do you run the LED wire neatly? I just put a zip tie at the very bottom after making sure you have enough wire to clear the big vertical screw on the back. Also make sure you leave some extra wire to allow the stepper motor to clear the wire when going up.
So you left us with a wire flopping around where it can get caught in the moving parts? I understand that you wanted something simple for beginners, but you owe it to them to at least mention the cleaner option. I think Creality did us a disservice by including only the "simple" instructions with the product, and if I had not seen their video before I saw yours, I still wouldn't know there is a better way.
I tinkered with the other methods, and I don't like them. I have 3 models: S1, V2, and V3 KE, hooked up this way, and I have seen absolutely no issue at all with the wire placement. No moving parts have bothered it at all. Hundreds of hours of prints on each. Everything I show, is based on actual real world use, here at my shop. #KISS
@@3DRundownI ran it down the inside the gantry housing and I can’t get the light to turn on. I’ve procrastinated opening the machine up again because I’ve got birthday presents to print but I’m worried I pinched the wires doing it the clean way. I cut a notch at the top of the gantry like the left side has already but there isn’t really a notch on the bottom of the machine. We’ll see!
@@3DRundowni mean you're just following the creality instructions. Which are... bleh, but totally not your fault. And they're nigh impossible to understand to a normal person without a magnifying glass. So I'm on your side here. The official method they have people use? Wow creality xD making your content creators look bad when they follow your instructions xD
Or you can also send the power cable down the inner left gantry post to hide the power cable from view.
It’s a little more fiddly but if you’re going to the effort of putting a filament sensor on the se you can do both in one.
meh. Not worth the effort. The Creality video shows this method, despite the manual showing the method I went with. I went with the manual method. Not messing with my working build, for a light, and I'd rather my Noobish peeps, not either. My more experience peeps, are gonna do it however they want anyways, or, mode the crud out of it. 😂😂 I usually remove sensors, instead of install them. 😜
@@3DRundown You can pull the wire through the post using a length of filament and some tape. That way, the only thing to remove is the top brace, rather than the whole post.
@@3DRundownI made the mistake of watching Creality's original install video, and has the entire gantry removed and parts falling everywhere before reassembling and finding your video. I can't tell you how much yours helped.
The official creality video is so deeply unhelpful that it's bordering on malice.
@@andydingley4966That's a really good idea ✌️
@@andydingley4966I got mine down without much effort, no need for pulling. Same with the sensor. Just kinda pushed it down gently and grabbed the end with tweezers when it was at the end.
Thank you bro, just intalled mine, no magic smoke or mystic fires! You rock!
If there's no Mystic Smoke, are we even trying??
Thanks. Installation done. Just one edit. You say the thru-hole is on the back right. It's really on the back left. Probably because you had it turned around you said right. Now to design and print a clip to put into that hole that snaps in and holds the wire kind a tight, and a light bar cover as it's really bright while I'm sitting at my desk.
🤔At 6:28, I say "Rear Left". They are def brighter! Mine are never turned on.
Thank you for an easy to follow and detailed instruction.
It arrived today and installed smoothly thanks to this video. Cheers mate!
Excellent job on showing how to connect the wires in the motherboard, helped me out a ton. I did a different strategy than you did or that @mdeshon mentioned in your comments below - I took off the plastic parts off of the wires of the light using an exacto blade, and on the side of the light switch, I fed the wire in the leftmost tiny ridge-gaps on the gantry surface (not within the gantry itself - there was zero removal of the top plate holding the filament sensor or the gantry) and through a small gap present on the Z motors - it is extremely flush, required no disassembly besides the under panel for hardwiring into the motherboard and the four screws for actually attaching the thing. That being said, it was a PAIN to feed that wire through, and I also had to add a few mm of electrical tape to the ends of the + and - wires so that the live points didn't contact each other when screwing them into the motherboard because of removing the plastic bits. It works fantastically though! Thank you again.
-SR
Very cool. While it's fun to go super nova nerd, For me, I have to try to go a route that the masses can understand, and do themselves. If I overcomplicate, I cut out large audiences.
Very welcome. Good to have you
@@3DRundown I totally understand. It is what I enjoy the most about watching your videos!
Such a nonsense thing to have to run those wires, but your video helped tremendously. Thanks.
I really don't understand why a port on the body, like the S1, wasn't added
Nicely done 🎉
Thank you. 🔥🔥
Thank you! Quite useful, as usual!
Very welcome. Thanks for being here. :)
Dude, your instalation guides are simply the best around, would you be be able to do one on the instalation of the Creality auxiliary cooling fans too? those that go in the back of the X gantry.
Hey brother. Thanks so much. I put allot of work into these. I'd love too, but, I don't have one, and it's just not possible to buy it all, or request it all from Creality (though it would benefit them!). Are you referring to this one?
store.creality.com/products/fan-cooling-kit
Make you a deal.... Venmo me the $27 it would take me to buy one, and I'll get it and make a video on it. Which machine you looking for me to install it on? Double check the site for compatibility.
@@3DRundown Yeah, this one exactly, I'd make that deal, just need work out this Venmo business works.
But I was looking to install it on the E3 V3 KE and it doesn't seem to be compatible. :/
Shame, the AliExpress listing I saw said it was compatible.
Venmo is super cool. Very easy, very mainstream these days. You'll be surprised to see how many of your contacts are on it. Check it out. As for the fan, yea, it's meant for the S1 line.
Очень долго не мог понять куда подключать контакты питания, тк колодка уже занята. Спасибо за понятное объяснение 😊
Gracias desde España
Nice video, thank you. One question…. Nothing holds the wire out of the way of the Z axis roller. Is there anything that keeps it from getting pinched in there during printing? Or, is this just something that is not able to issue?
I thought about that too, but it hasn't been a thing for me....
@ good deal thanks.
I'm gonna order it right now after seeing your video.
thanks!
The new background looks good! The bdm dungeon look was kinda wierd. Lol
The BDM dungeon is still where I shoot most of my stuff. 😂😂 This dirty room separator was $15 at Salvation army, and let's me shoot some simple stuff in my office without lugging machines around. I'd love one for my Dungeon. Got $100 for me? 😉
i ran my wiring by removing the top completely and feeding the wire down the channel through the bottom. no visible wiring!
That works. But I'd prefer to not tell my noobs to take stuff apart. 😜
I'm terrified of the idea of having to remove the bottom plate of my printer. It works so well and I feel like Creality printers know when you fiddle with anything at all that you're not completely confident in and they respond to that lack of confidence by breaking somewhere completely unrelated. My first print was the s1 pro which I loved for about 6 months when all of a sudden I couldn't get the bugger to level properly and gave up on 3d printing until I got the KE several months ago. The only thing I can really complain about the KE other than the usual bumps learning and adjusting to a new printer (particularly with also having to adjust to a new slicer to make it work at its best) is that it doesn't have a light pre-installed. This doesn't look particularly difficult, but neither did replacing the joysticks in my kids ps4 controllers until all of the fiddly tiny parts kept breaking instead of doing what the videos demonstrated they were meant to do...not sure if I should give it a go or not. 🤔
Working on your printer in all ways, is something you absolutely want to become comfortable with. Opening up, to see the mb, is a normal thing in our world. Take your time, and Go for it.
As for the S1, I have a very detailed tune up video, and leveling video. Follow them both with me, and get that s1 back in service
Love your video! So how do you run the LED wire neatly? I just put a zip tie at the very bottom after making sure you have enough wire to clear the big vertical screw on the back. Also make sure you leave some extra wire to allow the stepper motor to clear the wire when going up.
Some run it down the inside of the rail. I just leave it there. I have 3 like this and never had an issue
I followed your instructions to assemble the light bar, but after doing so, the printer would not turn on, any suggestions on how to fix this?
My guess, would be a short. Either at the light, or the motherboard. Make sure neither of the wires are contacting eachother.
so, we cant use the laser with the KE, only with the S1?
Correct. I would stick to a dedicated laser
👽👽👽👽👽👽👽👽👽👽👽
A great 3D adventure, thanks coach.
Welcome playa!
Is there a way i can controll it using klipper on my se
Negative
@@3DRundown i think i could try and add a motor to flip the switch with a macro
Maybe. Cutting power to it, isn't an option, at the board, because it's tied into the main power source. Gotta cut it somewhere AFTER that point.
That's not how Creality suggest you feed the wire, ie using the knock out piece, they suggest you feed it through the gantry which is what I did.
Creality instructs to use the knockout
@@3DRundown Best change their video then
They don't know which way is up. I think I mentioned this in the video. The instructions say KNOCKOUT, their Video, shows something else....
So you left us with a wire flopping around where it can get caught in the moving parts?
I understand that you wanted something simple for beginners, but you owe it to them to at least mention the cleaner option. I think Creality did us a disservice by including only the "simple" instructions with the product, and if I had not seen their video before I saw yours, I still wouldn't know there is a better way.
I tinkered with the other methods, and I don't like them. I have 3 models: S1, V2, and V3 KE, hooked up this way, and I have seen absolutely no issue at all with the wire placement. No moving parts have bothered it at all. Hundreds of hours of prints on each. Everything I show, is based on actual real world use, here at my shop. #KISS
@@3DRundownI ran it down the inside the gantry housing and I can’t get the light to turn on. I’ve procrastinated opening the machine up again because I’ve got birthday presents to print but I’m worried I pinched the wires doing it the clean way. I cut a notch at the top of the gantry like the left side has already but there isn’t really a notch on the bottom of the machine. We’ll see!
Just use an External led lamp...
OR, I'll use the Creality LED Lightbar...
In 30 years you could be a good beginner amateur. If you can, don't give others advice on technical matters.
Hahahahhahaaahhahaha
Now in Spanish jajajjajajajajajaja
TTFN, Filming some technical stuff
@@3DRundowni mean you're just following the creality instructions. Which are... bleh, but totally not your fault. And they're nigh impossible to understand to a normal person without a magnifying glass. So I'm on your side here.
The official method they have people use? Wow creality xD making your content creators look bad when they follow your instructions xD