I got myself one of these, still working out the kinks. 1st when unboxing just check the following before you plug it in and start calibrating. 1. Double check the red voltage switch in the rear is on the correct setting, mine was set to 220, which caused to it continuously reboot during calibration. (easy fix) 2. The Y axis tensioner (rear hex key under the plate) was a little loose, it comes with the wrenches to tighten it. 3. The X axis tensioner (right side on the carriage arm) was very loose causing errors during calibration. The provided hex keys resolve this as well. 4. The Z axis (up and down) I found the higher my print went, the more the nozzle would hit the print making a thumping sound and eventually offsetting the print. Just adjust the Z axis up by .05mm and that seems to do the trick. 5. Before feeding the filament, cut the tip at a 45 degree angle. I also would highly recommend ordering a few extra nozzles to keep on hand as well as silicon boots and a cleaning kit. I found TinkerCad is super easy to work with on 3D modeling and it's FREE.
I'm glad to hear that it has been going well, adhesion can be tricky depending on the material you use and a bunch of other factors, I'm glad to hear that you were able to resolve it.
It's a very helpful video. Could you tell me what weaknesses of this printer you have found during the period of exploitation? What would you recommend to improve compared to the stock configuration?
I am glad that you enjoyed the video. I would highly recommend getting the vibration compensation sensor which I mentioned in the video along with the printer, at higher speeds, this printer does unfortunately show ghosting and ringing a bit. But with the compensation sensor, you should be able to completely or mostly get rid of all the ghosting and ringing.
@@3DPrintingStorecoza Ok. Thank you. I have bought this printer and been waiting for it to arrive. Your review helped me to choose it. Keep up the content!
Are you able to use the "pause at height" or "filament change" in Cura? It doesn't seem to recognize the commands. Does Creality Print have such features?
Hi there! Yes, you are able to use both the pause at hight and filament change features in Cura on the KE. You can just create a custom profile for the KE using the SE as your base, then copy and paste the beginning and end G-Code from Creality Print to that profile in Cura to make sure that everything else works as well.
thanks for the video. is there a way to print multi color in a way that for instance a head will be white and eyes will be black ? or only if I print in 2 different parts then assemble them?
Because the build plate was brand new, no adhesive was needed, but otherwise, I would use standard hairspray just to give it a light coat before heating the bed. For PLA and PETG, that usually is more than enough to keep the print on the bed, in addition to the correct bed temperature of course.
We offer technical support as well, you can send us an email to support@3dprintingstore.co.za so one of our technicians can help you with getting that file ready for printing
I have realised this as well, the CR-10 SE seems to be a lot more sturdy, will be testing that out soon as well. But the overall printing quality doesn't seem to be affected too much even though the hot end isn't the most stable.
It helps to check all the bolts on the gantry, especially the top bolts, they were all loose out the box. Even after tightening, the gantry is way more wobbly than my ender 3 v2 neo.
Got one. It failed after 14 days. Retailer wouldn’t refund. Creality said they didn’t have any parts to replace ruined ones with. I have a $250 paperweight. Terrible CS.
I forgot to link the Dragon STL used in this video, you can find it here:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:6428358
I got myself one of these, still working out the kinks. 1st when unboxing just check the following before you plug it in and start calibrating.
1. Double check the red voltage switch in the rear is on the correct setting, mine was set to 220, which caused to it continuously reboot during calibration. (easy fix)
2. The Y axis tensioner (rear hex key under the plate) was a little loose, it comes with the wrenches to tighten it.
3. The X axis tensioner (right side on the carriage arm) was very loose causing errors during calibration. The provided hex keys resolve this as well.
4. The Z axis (up and down) I found the higher my print went, the more the nozzle would hit the print making a thumping sound and eventually offsetting the print. Just adjust the Z axis up by .05mm and that seems to do the trick.
5. Before feeding the filament, cut the tip at a 45 degree angle.
I also would highly recommend ordering a few extra nozzles to keep on hand as well as silicon boots and a cleaning kit.
I found TinkerCad is super easy to work with on 3D modeling and it's FREE.
I just started using mine over the weekend. Love it. I still have a lot to learn, but am happy with the results thus far.
Have mine 5 days now, love it, excellent Ferrari fast printer at a great price.❤😂
Enjoy it!
I just bought one, thanks for telling me some info!
Glad I could help!
@@3DPrintingStorecoza I’m subbing!
great video, well presented, very smartly done
So far I am very happy with my machine . Done large and small prints fast and slow . Had bed adhesion issues but resolved.
I'm glad to hear that it has been going well, adhesion can be tricky depending on the material you use and a bunch of other factors, I'm glad to hear that you were able to resolve it.
hey im planning on ordering one any advices?
Very insightful video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just bought one of these! What is the filament colour you used on the dragon? Great tutorial as well.
I'm glad you liked the video!
The filament colour is "Rainbow Kingfisher", it is one of our own CRON filaments
TY for the video brother very excited to start printing ty
It's a very helpful video. Could you tell me what weaknesses of this printer you have found during the period of exploitation? What would you recommend to improve compared to the stock configuration?
I am glad that you enjoyed the video.
I would highly recommend getting the vibration compensation sensor which I mentioned in the video along with the printer, at higher speeds, this printer does unfortunately show ghosting and ringing a bit. But with the compensation sensor, you should be able to completely or mostly get rid of all the ghosting and ringing.
@@3DPrintingStorecoza Ok. Thank you. I have bought this printer and been waiting for it to arrive. Your review helped me to choose it. Keep up the content!
Printing the supplied benchy is very impressive coming from an ender 3 v2 Neo.
Where can I find the design for the crystal dragon? Awesome video! Thank you.
mine make some "ticks" noise when start, like 3 or 4, is that normal?
Excuse my ignorance. How do you print the dragon with those colors?
Its all good, It is a multi coloured filament roll, so throughout the spool of filament, it has a gradient of different colours.
Are you able to use the "pause at height" or "filament change" in Cura? It doesn't seem to recognize the commands. Does Creality Print have such features?
Hi there!
Yes, you are able to use both the pause at hight and filament change features in Cura on the KE.
You can just create a custom profile for the KE using the SE as your base, then copy and paste the beginning and end G-Code from Creality Print to that profile in Cura to make sure that everything else works as well.
what temperature do you use for pla? i use 200c for extruder and 60c for bed, and it is always oozing and messing up
thanks for the video. is there a way to print multi color in a way that for instance a head will be white and eyes will be black ? or only if I print in 2 different parts then assemble them?
Wait. Did you not use an adhesive on the plate?
Because the build plate was brand new, no adhesive was needed, but otherwise, I would use standard hairspray just to give it a light coat before heating the bed. For PLA and PETG, that usually is more than enough to keep the print on the bed, in addition to the correct bed temperature of course.
@@3DPrintingStorecozaI'm brand new at this: how do I determine the correct bed temperature?
does it really print faster than other printers? I have a Ender3 v2 not the fastest printer and have you printed TPU?
Hi, just have one but important (for me) question: can this ke print wood filaments?
I prefer this one than the S1 pro but the latter can print wood.
So I found this file and I was wondering how to setup
We offer technical support as well, you can send us an email to support@3dprintingstore.co.za so one of our technicians can help you with getting that file ready for printing
I bought this one not overall impressed the hot end is way too wobble.
I have realised this as well, the CR-10 SE seems to be a lot more sturdy, will be testing that out soon as well.
But the overall printing quality doesn't seem to be affected too much even though the hot end isn't the most stable.
An easy fix is to move the filament roll to a standalone stand next to it. Fixed most if not all the wobble
It helps to check all the bolts on the gantry, especially the top bolts, they were all loose out the box. Even after tightening, the gantry is way more wobbly than my ender 3 v2 neo.
Got one. It failed after 14 days. Retailer wouldn’t refund. Creality said they didn’t have any parts to replace ruined ones with. I have a $250 paperweight. Terrible CS.
mine make some "ticks" noise when start, like 3 or 4, is that normal?