The g-sensor doesn't have to stay connected, once you've done the calibrations you can remove it. Just redo them at a later date if you ever change anything like removing the hotend etc
@@Daizlolyeah but I wonder if they SE and KE software wise are different, how will the KE hot end and bed actually hit the 300°C and 110°C temperature they boast to have 🤔
English is not my native language, but this printer unites us... replace the plastic racks with silicone ones and align the table as much as possible. this should reduce the formation of filaments, because the processor of this printer is weak and it forgets to make retracts when compensating for height
Hey, love your videos dude! I too have a ender 3 V3 SE and kind of regretted not getting the KE after finding out the featureds 😂. I want to know if you would do a video about upgrading the fan without changing the looks of the SE's fan casing. Maybe put a more powerful fan and making a single fan that blows front and back or maybe a bracket that would mount on the stock? Would be cool to see. I like the idea of duel fans but i am not a "fan" of the shrouds i stumble upon 😂. Now that i think about the duel fans. How would an individual even connect the duel fan set up though? It only has 2 ports for fans unlike the KE which has 3 🤔. Do we need to solder a JHT GH wire to have 2 males, 1 female lead? Anyways, let me know if you are planning to do the same 👍
I don't think that is possible. I intend to rip out the annoying 2510 fan and replace it with a 4010. A K1 Max ceramic hot end is also larger than the default 40w... Some custom pieces are way cooler than the default though, try this if you want to swap to a single 5015 - www.printables.com/model/697788-ender-3-v3-se-single-5015-fan
@@reddotgeek welp. Now I know why you called the 2510 annoying. It just broke on me today. I just got my SE a week ago 😂. Though the only thing I find lacking on the SE is that it only has two fan connections so we may need to solder two male lead JHT GH (forgot what the connection is called) just for 2 fan to work in 1 connection I am now planning on modding this with duel fan and replace the 2510 with 4010. I found this duel fan design for the ender 3 V3 SE with a KE hot end. Replacing the 2510 annoying fan. It is called Ender3 V3 SE dual 4010 shroud for k1/ke hotend in printables
Not sure its worth it for the price of the kit honestly. Could just save that 100 bucks and put it to another printer or in todays economy lunch. The two test prints look so similar.
It's very different with AI monitoring, remote control, built-in timelapse, input shaping, and a ton of other improvements... But yeah, Klipper can be installed on any old laptop. I am just lazy and got a pretty good deal for the kit during a sale.
Hi friend, great video, I installed the nebula on my ender 3 v3 se printer but I have problems with the extrusion, it extrudes too much, could you share with me the configuration parameters of your machine please, new subscriber. I am using the orca slicer
I cannot give you the "perfect" settings, it's different for every nozzle and filament... But a few quick pointers: 1) Remember to change the G-code flavor to "Klipper". I don't use Orca, it should be somewhere in "printer settings". 2) If it is over extrusion, you will want to lower the nozzle temperature and slow down the flow rate in general - obico.io/blog/flow-rate-calibration-orca-slicer-comprehensive-guide/
of the updates you made, what is the order of improvement in the prints? example, x axis, y axis, z axis, level spaces, nebula pad. what order of improvement. thanks for the videos
Visible improvement : X rail, Nebula Pad/Klipper, PEI/PEO plate. Not so much : Y rails, Z brace. Bottom half is now solid, top is still quite wobbly. You need to build a CAGE for it to be fully stable. Cheap, why not : Silicone Spacers, spinny spool holder. I don't have space to "relocate" the spool, so it's good. Nada : Runout sensor, LED light.
I upgraded for K1 hotend X and Y linear rails 5015 blower --- Soon nebula pad And enclosure to start printing with abs and asa. The funny thing we almost getting to KE price 🤣🤣
I don't think I will go as far as building an enclosure... But a "super budget enclosure" built using PVC pipes and transparent table mats may be an interesting video idea. 🤣
It's printing fine with KE profile, set at 5000mm/s2. But the SE is using a slightly smaller 42-34 rather than 42-40 for the X-axis... I am happy with it, don't want to burn a motor just to find out how far it can be pushed. 🤣
@@reddotgeekspeaking of which, did you just have the Nebula screen plugged in when you flashed the .bin file to the main board? I’m reading conflicting info on this. Some have said install the .bin with original screen, remove it and put the Nebula pad on and go from there. Did you install that Nebula.Pad.bin file onto the pad itself too?
I can also print perfect pieces with a 0.2mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer height, 100mm/s? It's not about printing "nice pieces" here. See the settings - I am literally pushing the limits and printing at 500mm/s to see how Klipper handles it VS Marlin. The limitation is pretty much the PETG though. It strings like crazy, it's not made to print at high flow.
It is possible to update the firmware of the Nebula Pad via a USB drive. But I am guessing the card reader is required to update the motherboard... Try asking around on Reddit - www.reddit.com/r/Ender3V3SE/
I LOVE YOUR CHANNEL. I also like overly and unnecessarily upgrading my 200$ printer. Thank you very much for showing me the way.
Thanks for watching!
And thanks for this tutorial. Now I know how to attach the gsensor. And the adapter for the pad is smart instead of printing an entire new holder.
The g-sensor doesn't have to stay connected, once you've done the calibrations you can remove it. Just redo them at a later date if you ever change anything like removing the hotend etc
Got it. Will just leave it on for convenience... and not to lose it.
You have successfully made the KE!
Correction: still need that hotend
@@Daizlolyeah but I wonder if they SE and KE software wise are different, how will the KE hot end and bed actually hit the 300°C and 110°C temperature they boast to have 🤔
@@Daizlolthere was a person who set K1 Max hotend on SE, i guess it is much better than KE
Yes. Still need a ceramic hot end and swap out the shrieking fan of death.
@@reddotgeek will you keep the original fan shroud?
There is also a firmware upgrade for the Nebula camera that it least fixes the night vision settings.
English is not my native language, but this printer unites us... replace the plastic racks with silicone ones and align the table as much as possible. this should reduce the formation of filaments, because the processor of this printer is weak and it forgets to make retracts when compensating for height
Hi, great video
Have you made any changes to acceleration speeds on the machine?
I printed the benchy using KE profile, that is 5000mm/s2.
Hey, love your videos dude! I too have a ender 3 V3 SE and kind of regretted not getting the KE after finding out the featureds 😂.
I want to know if you would do a video about upgrading the fan without changing the looks of the SE's fan casing. Maybe put a more powerful fan and making a single fan that blows front and back or maybe a bracket that would mount on the stock? Would be cool to see. I like the idea of duel fans but i am not a "fan" of the shrouds i stumble upon 😂.
Now that i think about the duel fans. How would an individual even connect the duel fan set up though? It only has 2 ports for fans unlike the KE which has 3 🤔. Do we need to solder a JHT GH wire to have 2 males, 1 female lead?
Anyways, let me know if you are planning to do the same 👍
I don't think that is possible. I intend to rip out the annoying 2510 fan and replace it with a 4010. A K1 Max ceramic hot end is also larger than the default 40w... Some custom pieces are way cooler than the default though, try this if you want to swap to a single 5015 - www.printables.com/model/697788-ender-3-v3-se-single-5015-fan
@@reddotgeek welp. Now I know why you called the 2510 annoying. It just broke on me today. I just got my SE a week ago 😂. Though the only thing I find lacking on the SE is that it only has two fan connections so we may need to solder two male lead JHT GH (forgot what the connection is called) just for 2 fan to work in 1 connection
I am now planning on modding this with duel fan and replace the 2510 with 4010. I found this duel fan design for the ender 3 V3 SE with a KE hot end. Replacing the 2510 annoying fan. It is called Ender3 V3 SE dual 4010 shroud for k1/ke hotend in printables
Very nice work, would you say that the nebula pad offers quality improvements over the regular firmware?
Yes, absolutely. Nebula pad is running Klipper, has a ton of features over stock Marlin.
@@reddotgeek Cheers mate, thank you for the content, and the feedback!
Not sure its worth it for the price of the kit honestly. Could just save that 100 bucks and put it to another printer or in todays economy lunch. The two test prints look so similar.
It's very different with AI monitoring, remote control, built-in timelapse, input shaping, and a ton of other improvements... But yeah, Klipper can be installed on any old laptop. I am just lazy and got a pretty good deal for the kit during a sale.
Hi friend, great video, I installed the nebula on my ender 3 v3 se printer but I have problems with the extrusion, it extrudes too much, could you share with me the configuration parameters of your machine please, new subscriber. I am using the orca slicer
I cannot give you the "perfect" settings, it's different for every nozzle and filament... But a few quick pointers:
1) Remember to change the G-code flavor to "Klipper". I don't use Orca, it should be somewhere in "printer settings".
2) If it is over extrusion, you will want to lower the nozzle temperature and slow down the flow rate in general - obico.io/blog/flow-rate-calibration-orca-slicer-comprehensive-guide/
What was the print time with klipper compared to Marlin in this test?
After updating, which printer profile should I use? K E versions? or could you share the printer profile settings in the slicer?
You can stick with the SE profile. Under "manage printer" > switch on "advanced" > just change "G-code flavor" to "Klipper".
of the updates you made, what is the order of improvement in the prints? example, x axis, y axis, z axis, level spaces, nebula pad. what order of improvement. thanks for the videos
Visible improvement : X rail, Nebula Pad/Klipper, PEI/PEO plate.
Not so much : Y rails, Z brace. Bottom half is now solid, top is still quite wobbly. You need to build a CAGE for it to be fully stable.
Cheap, why not : Silicone Spacers, spinny spool holder. I don't have space to "relocate" the spool, so it's good.
Nada : Runout sensor, LED light.
I upgraded for
K1 hotend
X and Y linear rails
5015 blower
---
Soon nebula pad
And enclosure to start printing with abs and asa.
The funny thing we almost getting to KE price 🤣🤣
I don't think I will go as far as building an enclosure... But a "super budget enclosure" built using PVC pipes and transparent table mats may be an interesting video idea. 🤣
@@reddotgeekI upgraded to the pad and started to have problems like layer shifting the Z doesn’t compass enough
what Accelerations do you have with nebula working without issues now?
It's printing fine with KE profile, set at 5000mm/s2. But the SE is using a slightly smaller 42-34 rather than 42-40 for the X-axis... I am happy with it, don't want to burn a motor just to find out how far it can be pushed. 🤣
Were there any changes that to be made within Creality Print?
Nothing. Just add printer and print.
I made this mistake just get an ender 3 v3 so much better it’s worth every penny
Or just get a Bambu A1.
What’s different?
but wouldnt having clipper capable device instead be better?
The Nebula pad is Klipper based. Just not fully unlocked, which it can be.
Yes, both Sonic and Nebula pad are Klipper. They can be rooted, but I just want to use it as it is. For now.
@@reddotgeekspeaking of which, did you just have the Nebula screen plugged in when you flashed the .bin file to the main board? I’m reading conflicting info on this. Some have said install the .bin with original screen, remove it and put the Nebula pad on and go from there. Did you install that Nebula.Pad.bin file onto the pad itself too?
What slicer is that?
Nvm
Maybe if you set the manual focus on the camera....
Sorry my 3v3s3 has better print results than both prints you shown
I think you have a print material issue
I can also print perfect pieces with a 0.2mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer height, 100mm/s? It's not about printing "nice pieces" here. See the settings - I am literally pushing the limits and printing at 500mm/s to see how Klipper handles it VS Marlin. The limitation is pretty much the PETG though. It strings like crazy, it's not made to print at high flow.
can i do this if my cardreader on my se is broken? can i install firmware trough usb and a laptop?
It is possible to update the firmware of the Nebula Pad via a USB drive. But I am guessing the card reader is required to update the motherboard... Try asking around on Reddit - www.reddit.com/r/Ender3V3SE/
@@reddotgeek ty for fast feedback