𝗛𝗼𝘄 to 𝙋𝙍𝙊𝙋𝙀𝙍𝙇𝙔 𝗥𝗲𝗽𝗹𝗮𝗰𝗲 a 𝐍𝐨𝐳𝐳𝐥𝐞 - CR10 V3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 พ.ค. 2024
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Link to Transcript:
yarkspirifantasyart.com/nozzl...
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
0:30 Cold Pull Reason
0.54 Preheat Nozzle
1:10 Cold Pull Process - Feeding
1:36 Cold Pull Process -Cooldown
1:48 Cold Pull Process - The Pull
2:20 Nozzle change supplies
2:47 Before Removing the Nozzle
3:19 Prepping the Machine
3:44 Removal of Nozzle
4:20 Prepping Nozzle
4:56 Attaching new Nozzle
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Stop using that shake transition between cuts, its very annoying.
Yeah I was getting very nauseous watching this. Great detail from what I can tell but I'm not sure I'll be able to finish the video. Maybe just use that transition for, I don't know, transitioning between sections of the video and not every new frame :)
There's a transcript version on the main website which might be of better assistance.
Agreed
Yes please
I think OP probably just learned Windows Movie Maker
Thanks for posting the video, I’ve been looking for one for a guide for CR-10 V3 nozzle replacement but the closest I could find was a creality video about replacing the hot end that involved disassembling most of the extruder and taking wiring off, this is much more straightforward for just doing a nozzle replacement.
Ya it can be pretty difficult if you don't have the proper tool on hand. This one is quite different compared to most machines.
Just got my CR10 V3 a few days ago... still building it's space. Thank you !!!! New tool to grab from the garage and keep close. LOL, Soon my garage tool tower will be inside my print room.
Lol that's what happened to me. I live in a 1-bedroom apartment, so everything is in my living room (not sure, it counts as a living room anymore since I don't own a couch).
Thank you very much for your tutorials! It makes our life so much easier. Ow I just also want to point out that the shaking transition was unbearable, I just wanted to scream at it xD...
Happy to hear that it helped. I've since changed the transition to the zoom, so future videos should be a lot easier. I also have a transcript on my main website to make it easier to follow.
Great Video! filament isn't feeding through idk know where its blocked or if it is. What Should I do? there are very little videos on the CR-10 v3
Try doing a cold pull first. This will help remove any debris that might be in the nozzle.
If I may make a suggestion for an additional step. With the nozzle removed and the nozzle temp around 220C. Push filament through the nozzle hole. This will help cleaning out the filament path. Once through cool down the nozzle. As it cools down push the filament down through the nozzle hole until you have hard filament coming out. Then cut off the asses filament and pull the filament out a short distance. Now reinstall the nozzle..
That's a very good suggestion. I'll have to keep that one in mind.
@@Yarkspiri Maybe that could replace your could cold pull step. Meaning it reduces the possible breaking PLA in the filament tube.
The cold pull is mean to completely remove any residual particles in the hot end. Whereas this method is meant to push it out. When doing a nozzle change, it is better to remove all the of the material to ensure a proper seal between the heatbreak and nozzle.
Did you have to put the silicon casing back after installing the new nozzle or is it okay to just leave it in without?
You can leave it without it. I find that on some machines it can cause issues if it wasn't designed properly. If you do this, however, make you to watch your machine during the first layer. That way you can catch most of the issues before they become big problems. I always recommend being present when the machine is running or have someone keep an on it when you're not there, just to be safe.
Did you already take the silicone sock off of the nozzle before you replaced it?
Yes. Mine got damaged previously. As long as the machine is cooled down, you can gently remove it without taking the hot end apart in most cases.
My cr10v3 came with a silicone sock, did you remove yours?
Mine has one too... kind of shocked... was gonna order them... it showed up "socked"... one less thing to buy.
Ya I had one originally, but it got damaged, and I had to remove it. :( It was printing some pretty big projects when a failed print that did the poor fella in.
What type of nozzle does the printer use? Is it just a regular mk8?
Any standard nozzle will work fine with the machine, which does include the mk8. If you want to print functional parts faster, you can also switch out the nozzle to a larger diameter. The nozzle that comes with the machine is a 0.4.
@@Yarkspiri ok. So if I went with a bigger nozzle, do I just print in higher layer heights? So for instance, if I put on a 0.8 nozzle, the layer height should be like .6? Right now, I have a .4 on the printer and I usually print everything at .2 layer height and if I want really good detail I go to .1.
I've been printing for like 2 years but never strayed from .4 nozzle at .2 layer height pla only.
I only did prints that others made and now I'm getting into self-creation and fabricaton so I'm trying new things.
@@buddybonbutt7510 I would choose the nozzle size based on what you're printing. If you're building rough prototypes or structural parts that don't need to look good, then a larger diameter is better because you'll be able to print faster. If your making something that you want to sell or that requires a more polished look, than the lowest I'd go is the 0.3 nozzle.
In your print settings, you'll have to adjust you're printing heights to get the most from your nozzle changes. With a 0.8 nozzle, I find that 0.4 height is normally the maximum for a decent looking print. Because of the larger nozzle, you'll also want to adjust your heat settings and speed, especially on the first layer.
I produce most of my own products by creating my masters with 3D prints, so depending on what you're doing, you may wish to learn mold making as well.
@@buddybonbutt7510 You have to change the nozzle diameter as well as the layer height in your settings. *** I would save the profile you have first so that if you go back to a smaller nozzle you won't have issues. *** In Cura you change the nozzle diameter in the ''machine settings" as well as your "print settings". Next you'll set your printing height in your machine settings. You can then begin printing while testing to see what settings work best for that nozzle.
Did you already take off the nozzle before that cold pull? Otherwise, how would you get the whole filament through? You really need to say all the instructions before jumping ahead. People watching these videos haven't done this before.
No, the nozzles still in there. As the nozzle heats up, you need to be applying constant pulling force so that when it reaches the right temperature, all the debris comes out with the filament. This is why your nozzle needs to be at room temperature to begin with, and you heat it up slowly. I also have a transcript on my website that a lot of people find useful.
the screen shake transition makes this video unpleasant to watch.
I've since remove those transition and swapped them with other's. This was the only video that has them, I believe.
@@Yarkspiri awesome
All that shaking in the video was extremely distracting and annoying
I fixed the issue in the videos that followed this one, thanks to viewers feedback.
You should never use tape on the nozzle.
The pipe joint tape I'm using is Teflon based, and its safety rating is above 300C. For lower temperature PTFE, the maximum would be 260, and therefore I don't recommend it for printing with high temp nozzles. Standard printing temperatures are fine. If it's properly tightened, most user's shouldn't have to worry about this. Making sure to pre-heat the nozzle properly can for the most part avoid this issue entirely.
@@Yarkspiri While it may be ok with the heat, doesn't it act as in insulator between the block and the nozzle? Would a better solution be something like thermal paste to help with the heat transfer? I recently picked up a used V3 and its driving me nuts, something if off with the bed and its been impossible to level it. the mount for the hot end was bent so who knows what the last owner did to it!
I've never tried using thermal paste. If the material can withstand those temperatures without becoming more liquid or releasing toxins, it may work, but I haven't tried or researched it. It is an interesting question. I know E3D uses a form of past with their nozzles, but I don't recall what material it is at the moment. Since they've already done the testing for that product in particular, it might be a better option.