Titan Maintenance - Complaining about the CR10 V2/V3 Titan Direct Drive
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 เม.ย. 2021
- Hello everyone, your sentient potato here playing around in his workshop again after the February freeze/flood. Hanging around the Facebook Creality forum I have seen a lot of V2/V3 Direct Drives die because of poor maintenance.
Maintenance is not an often talked about feature of your direct drive, but the E3D Extruder needs it. I now, because I own one.
Titan Replacement Bearing Kit. 2 bearings and a clear cover. I hear these break from time to time.
www.matterhackers.com/store/l...
As a disclaimer, no system is perfect. I enjoy the V2 that I have upgraded to be a V3 and am satisfied with it. Except for that one nagging component, the bowden tube. Each solution I researched involved replacing the hot end. Some were more questionable than others and a few were just weird. The Hemera was a solution amongst many various all-metal hot ends. And a good price too. If you get one, make certain you get the 24v for the V2 & V3.
www.matterhackers.com/store/l...
Oh my god, you're an absolute life saver. I have been searching for those bearings all night! I had one pretty much disintegrate this evening, so I appreciate you linking us to the replacement kit! Thank you!
Welcome!
I had the exact same thing happen tonight. This video was clutch. Thanks @cainesarmoury8962
this videos was my salvation, thank you!!!
Hello! thanks so so much! i new on 3d printer, and i had the CR10 v3 and just star having all these problems. THANK YOU SO MUCH for sharing your knowledge!
You are the Bob Ross of 3d printer modifications.
Um, thanks!
So I just got my CR10 V3 and the very second problem* was that damn extruder which combined with the flaccid bed leveling caused a head crash and a jammed boden tube. Three hours later I finally found the broken piece of filament (black filament in a black tube is difficult for a 64 year old to see). Granted a good portion of that time I was considering boxing the damn thing up and sending it back.
But it's not my first rodeo when it comes to mods, so I'm now into "we void warranties" mode. I bought the CR10 because I own an FLSun. And anything, including one of those 3D printing pens is a step up from it. It ate the G2 belt for one of the axis, which I replaced easily enough, but it suffers from a lot of other mechanical problems. In any case, this was the last straw. The attraction of the CR10 is the better quality hardware compared with the FLSun. And in that regard I'm pretty happy with it.
As for the CR10, I slotted my Z-stop bracket and now the bed screws are much firmer and not likely to "self-adjust" while printing.
The Titan hotend now has a BL Touch mounted on it but I am waiting on a cable. But after seeing what you had to do with your hotend, mine's probably getting replaced. It reminds me of my first extruder/hotend combo that came with my Rostock. I finally gave up on it and replaced it with a Prometheus solid metal hotend and a bulldog(?) extruder (bondtech clone I think).
I also have a M3D Quad that needs a good home, but I'm building a HevORT and it will probably end up there (although I'm not sure that I will have enough stepper channels, I'll need eleven with the M3D I think). The initial purpose of the CR10 is to print parts for the HevORT. The quality coming out of the FLSun was pretty bad...
The electronics in the CR10 have got to go, I am just too used to using a Duet at this point to go without. So whatever is in the black box is going to get yanked and a Duet is going in.
I've also found the same interference problem with the hotend when you have the Z axis up high. I just ran it down a bit and homed it from there. I doubt that I will ever print anything on the CR10 that even comes close to its limits. My build volume on the HevORT will be >565mm cubed, so I don't need the CR10 for big prints.
* The very first problem being the braindead location of the Z axis stop that forces you to nearly disassemble the bed to get the nozzle height correct-ish. WTF?
The V2/V3 aren't the best designed machines from the factory. After some fiddling I have gotten mine to work, and after market mods do solve problems. Bed Leveling and the Direct Drive are the two biggest issues. Nylock nut knobs and a different brand drive solve a majority of the issues.
@@cainesarmoury8962 No, but I've owned worse. I'm very pleased with it so far, it does a very nice job. Slow as molasses, but what Cartesian out of the box isn't? The notching of the Z-stop bracket fixed a lot of sins, so much so that I haven't bothered with the BL Touch.
I've run about 9kg of filament through it, and so far so good. No sign of clogging as of yet.
@@cainesarmoury8962 Well, I went to clean out the stupid extruder *again* and the parts went flying. So I took it as a sign, and it's going into the dumpster. Cleaning out the extruder every three or four months is not in the cards for me, so it will be replaced with an all metal hotend (probably) along with a better extruder. Or scabbing on my old TronXY A10 hotend that worked perfectly after running miles and miles of filament through it.
@@MrWaalkman Perfectly reasonable. I was not happy with the titan upgrade honestly, but it is a cheap upgrade. I am very happy with the Hemera route that I went. Though it was a huge undertaking in designing new brackets and encoding new firmware. There are others that are easier to install, and it is not a bad option.
@@cainesarmoury8962 So after posting my update, I pulled the trigger on the "Micro Swiss NG Direct Drive Extruder for Creality CR-10 V2 / V3". The one with the extruder drive at an angle, and more importantly the fan shrouds and whatnot needed to complete the hotend and bolt directly onto a CR-10 V3 (I hope). It was $131 off of Amazon and it should be here by Sunday (a day late).
I'll try to remember to come back and let you know what I think of it. And I will have to check out your wheels video. Thanks!
My v3 has ~1in spacers on the braces. Looks like they fixed that issue.
My extruded plate (clear one) keeps working itself loose, and the leveling knobs won’t stay level. Driving me insane. Haha
Just added a few washers to the knobs and going to put a bit of purple threadlocker on there
I printed custom CR10 leveling knobs and used nylock nuts to keep them in place. The more I play with the knobs without the nylock nuts the more I want to go back.
I've just dismantled my 4 month old CR-10 V3 after a hotend 'meltdown' when the print moved on the bed. Can I suggest lifetime sealed bearings instead (and definitely don't put oil on the outside or the housing). They cost slightly more but wouldn't need re-oiling every month. The only possible oil would be on the 'axle' which shouldn't be touching anyway as the gear wheel assembly has flanges that fit the bearing inner. I guess that your bearings are shot if the axle is rubbing on the gear inner. Bearings are MR95-2RS for the sealed version and ZZ for the shielded. I'm possibly going to change to the Hemera on my V3 to get rid of the bowden tube issue as well, but have heard a lot of negative things about the Hemera, in particular not sealing to the nozzle.
That's an awesome suggestion that I didn't think of! I'm going to see if I can find price competitive sealed bearings in Crealitys size.
The Hemera is no different than any other all-metal hot end. You have to tighten it properly (not by hand) and the sealing isn't an issue.
Heat it up to printing temp, tighten, and you're off to printing! People also like the Bondtech DD setup. The reason I sent with the Hemera is its small size and low weight. It has plenty of options and upgrade potential. Reliable, small heat sleeve, and opens up new materials that the Titan struggles with.
@@cainesarmoury8962 MR95-2RS from Amazon. I'm fitting some today. No oil anywhere, so less things to clog up.
@@ColinDyckes Thank you! I just ordered 30. I'm doing another video on a different printer and I'll give you a mention!
@@cainesarmoury8962 That's great. Have you actually fitted an Hemera to a V3 yet? I've got as far as downloading and installing VSCode and a Marlin configuration for the standard setup with BLTouch. It compiles OK, but I'm not going to try it yet. If I get an Hemera then it just needs a few mods which they specify, plus new BLTouch to Nozzle offsets.
Mine doesn't free spin on the black side as easy as yours. It is a lot smoother though. It looks like the gear in the middle is a little tighter than yours. Is there a bearing inside? I'm gonna put it back how it is and see how it works. I only had it apart because filament got blobbed all over the inside. So I followed your cleaning technique while cleaning the rest. Pray for me 😁😁😁 Awesome video!
There should be a bearing on both sides of the black gear. If you're missing one it will cause problems. Good luck putting it back together, I hope this helps maintaining the titan!
@@cainesarmoury8962 Yes but I decided to order some blue Capricorn tubing to put inside before I put it back instead of the tube that came with it. Just from your opinion would you do the same? Either way I'll have extra if it doesn't work out but yes your video helped a lot and I did get both of the oils and now I understand how the extruder works. Better I learn now than later. Thanks again😁
@@ryand76 I would stay away from capricorn tubing when it comes to direct drives. It can be too stiff and restrictive for the Titan setup. But, I am only assuming. Never tried it myself. I only used the Capricorn on the pre-direct drive setup.
The bearings are 9 OD x5 IDx 3 mm width.
I’m wondering why my V2’s Z Axis are reverse of yours? My X axis belt tightened is on the right and the circuit board/cover/bowden mount are on the left side. I upgraded to the Titan Direct Drive (V3) and replaced it all with a Hemera. I got tired of the non-stop clogs.
I was using the front camera and it reversed the image. Learned how to edit that properly after I did this video.
my ball bearings are defective. where can i buy new ones I can't find these
Good question. I actually have a handful of high quality bearings that I don't use anymore. If you would like a pair I don't mind selling them and sending them to you. Send me an email at CainesArmoury@gmail.com.
Hi. I just wondering is it good idea to replace hot end tube to capricorn PTFE tube. What you think about it?
NOOOOOO, doesnt work well in the direct drives, gets too tight and clogs
@@jonathansmith1155 any solution to fix this overheat issue?
I keep getting this on the facebook group. As Jonathan Smith said, no. Capricorn is a Bowden drive upgrade as it tightens retraction control. Especially if you want to run TPU (I haven't tested this but theoretically you could).
@@MR.EVERLOST swap out for an All metal hot end
or change the tube every 2 months
@@jonathansmith1155 I have about 24 machines of various sizes, I converted them all to direct drive and capricorn tube in the hot end for those that are not all metal hot ends. They all print like a charm. Maybe my dual gear extruder is pushing the filament through, not sure. But such a joy to print after years of tweaking.
would you share where you got the stl for the filament runout sensor.
I didn't print it, I made it out of Styrene. However, I am going to release an STL for it as it seems to be a popular addition!
Do you know if the bearings in that kit are MR95ZZ bearings?
Sorry for the late reply. No, I cannot verify that they are. At best, I assume they are made of chinesium.
How hot are you printing your pla??? Your the upper part of the bowden tube should not be that degraded in a month unless you are printing too hot. You should try replacing your heat break to an all metal titanium heat break. It should virtually stop the heat creep you are experiencing and also check if your hot end fan is pushing enough air as they wear down over time.
P.S. Pla is a none petroleum based plastic so that gunk is probably something else.
I'm printing as low as you can possibly go up to about mid range of the heat recommendations. Usually around 185 to 195. The bowden tube isn't degraded it's just coated in the goo that comes from the filament. The discoloration is the heat degrading PLA little by little and I print a lot, so it happens fast. It builds up and compresses the bowden tube creating heat creep. Simple as that.
I really wish I could find a better heat sleeve from the heat block into the cooling shroud. The smooth nature of the V6 clone in this model is not that great. In order to upgrade it to a threaded shank I would have to replace the heatsink. I found a few from China but I'm not willing to spend the money and wait for something that may or may not help. Going Hemera or Bondtech is an upgrade all around.
And the fans are all working very well.
Wish I had seen this video before I bought my v3. That piece of PTFE tubing in the heat break melts above 240C (which is everything I print). They changed out a problematic plastic idler arm in the extruder for metal and advertise it as having an "all metal extruding kit". Then dummies like me come along and assume were getting an all metal hotend....because whats an all metal "extruder kit"? I THOUGHT I had done my homework and was buying a printer I wouldnt have to change out a bunch of stuff to print Tglase and CPE-HT. I cant even print PETG with this thing. Its useless to me as it is. So any advice? I need all metal hotend and direct drive.
many people switch to the Bondtech, and I went with the Hemera. There are other options, and I'm sure they're great but it seems Bondtech is the number one choice. I chose the Hemera specifically because of it's low profile, low weight, all metal hot end. There is a PTFE tube but it's only to feed filament into the gear.
whats the name for those storage boxes under the printer i cant find them on thingiverse
It's for a CR10. Since the basic frame of a V2/V3 is identical to a CR10 you can just use the same accessories.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2983354
@@cainesarmoury8962 cool beans thank you! Great video BTW, my V3 was having a lot of problems with its titan i can't wait to try a hemera
can this print nylon out of box or we need to do modification
Nylon is out of the range of the V2/V3. Going above 210 is generally unproductive because of the bowden-in-nozzle configuration. Everything else about the V2/V3 is rather good except for that one part, so you need to upgrade your hot end for best results.
Why do you use oil? Oil is know to atrack dirt, i use T9 boeshield drywax and never get that dirt like sticky greasy oil. 😉
I use oil because I don't run a dirty shop. Dust is the only problem and the oil lets me know where it needs more lube and it's so easy to get a hold of. Drywax is a good suggestion though I may try that eventually.