This video helped me out a-lot. I have a 2002 Tahoe and i did this and now all my speakers work. I had to tap into the tweeter wires for my front speakers on the doors due to no signal on the original wire. Now it works thanks to this video!!!
I just installed new speakers. During install I wasn't sure so I took a guess on positive and negative. Good thing I guess correctly. Thanks for the vid
Very informative,thanks a lot,it helped me. I still have an issue now as I only have sound from my front left speaker and a very low level fromthe rear right one. Nothing from the other speakers....
@@dabloesco I cut the harness and bypassed the amp. Just rewired all speakers directly to the new audio unit. This was the easiest way and the amp is of noise anyway. Since there of the speakers had issues I also replaced the four with new units. Found out that some active speakers were installed. Don't know if they were factory standard or aftermarket but the sub amps were dead on two of them. The easier and cheapest way was to bin them and install new ones.
I have the 2013 Tahoe LTZ it's has nine speakers, and I want to put after market radio and I have a sub amp and a 4 channel amp I was going to take out of my other car, any suggesting on how should I do the nine speakers?
great video bro i been breaking my head how to bypass the factory amp plus i want keep the steering wheel features i have a 2007 chevy suburban 1500 what’s your recommendation abt that
Question does the amp have separate wires for tweeter or just front rear left right if the amp is the crossover then it would have separate wires for the tweeters on the output side the reason I ask is if the xover is downstream from the amp then you need to find that so you can use your new speaker crossover or leave the stock one in
I appreciate your video. It was a great help. “This is your factory amplifier… which is a piece of 💩 “ ahahaha. The colors with positive/negative was exactly what I came for. Thank you.
Thanks for this video I had the same problem all of a sudden the guys radio stopped. And this is what happened. The Amp failed. I didn't even bother adding new wires I just spliced the input and output wires together You're right about one thing The system is a POS and the way they wire these cars at GM sucks but at least theres a way around the mess
so lets say on my 2016 tucson, i could just unhook both harnesses from the factory amp splice the speaker wires together right there feom the input to output and i could get sound out of an aftermarket head unit?
I noticed you left the other plug left in the factory amp, is there a reason for that? Or could you have unplugged it as well and pulled the factory amp out of the vehicle all together..
I did your method today in my 02 Tahoe. Works perfectly and sounds awesome. Thanks for making this video man. btw I used wire nuts for my connections and thats my permanent install. Thanks
99-02 is different then the 03-07 classic trucks. The new trucks are class 2 data bus and the the earlier trucks are standard wiring. Plus the amp is in the middle on the new trucks.
I was thinking of just replacing the factory amp with a better small amp, I have a taramps ts400x4 half the size of the factory amp and i wanted to make a custom cable from the metra 71-2002 to hookup any amp.
What happens to the third row seat pillar speakers and the front twitter pods? Do those just not work anymore? My 04 Yukon has maybe 10 speakers all together, 2 front doors, 2 front tweeter pods, 2 second row doors, 2 third row, 2 third row tweeter pods.
Did you ever end up tackling this issue? Where did you never end up replacing your tweeters?I have been thinking the same thing, I wonder if I can just hook up new door speakers with the proper harness and adapters or is it gonna be another pain in the ass to just install some mids in the door and two new tweeters plug and play until I get a four channel amp and run new wires to them probably instead of a coaxial speakers get the component where it comes with a crossover and Tweeters but until I do that, I would like to put aftermarket speakers. I have to sitting around into the truck, but my luck is gonna end up, not making sound again..
first of all, love the video. Second, if I get a new aftermarket radio, is the general thought that the new radio will have enough power to run the 10-speakers and subwoofer in a suburban and therefore do not need the amp? Third, when you disconnect the colored wires on the 'right' side of the amp connector (the ones that go to the speakers) does the new radio have the same colored wires to match? Is that an industry standard? thanks, I might have follow-up questions, but thanks for making video.
I’m wondering the same thing. I went to audio shop for truck and he’s trash but he said I can’t put Bluetooth cause I have premium sound system and it’s not strong enough
Rather than use a 9v just turn the radio on and use the balancer /fader one speaker at a time before you tape it up. I go front left then front right. Then do the rears (if any) the same way. If you have good ears you will notice if they are out of phase. The sound will be hollow if they are wired out of phase meaning the negative and positive are wrong. When it’s right you’ll hear a fuller richer sound. Hope that helps anyone.
I'm trying to avoid all that process. I dont know if is possible just to run a wire. a remote wire aftermarket radio to the factory amp. Do you think thats possible. Otherwise i will do all that process. In your videosnsays you can. Do you know what wire i need to connect from the amp to the remote wire ( antenna )
What's up bro nice video. Have a question. Does the factory amp interfere with an aftermarket amp? I cant get power to my aftermarket amp. I'm thinking I have the remote wire hooked up wrong or a bad ground.
i have a problem with the speakers cuttting out when the bass comes in a song if i have the radio turned up could it be the factory amp is not strong enough to handle 6 aftermarket speakers i have in my 99 tahoe
Get and amp that has high level inputs and you can use the wires that go to the factory sub or you can get a high level to low level/rca converter. Then just wire up the power and ground to the amp. As far as the remote turn on lead you can run a wire from from a switched ignition source....meaning a source that only supplies power when the ignition is turned on...in your fuse box inside the vehicle to the amp. Or you could ditch the factory radio and replace it with something else that has rca outputs and a remote turn on lead/power antenna
No. Since this video I've actually rewired the entire truck with upgraded speaker wire and don't use any of the factory stereo equipment other than the tweeters in the front doors and the rear pillar tweets
I thi k this is just for ones with like bose or something because i never had a problem with just a stereo but i may be wrong and the aftermarket stereo might be doing almost nothing
Why not just cut both the input (from the radio) AND output (to the speakers) from the factory amp and run speed wire to that point? Saves the trouble of clipping behind the radio...
I'm not sure about the steering wheel controls because mine doesn't have them but as far as sound quality, if you have a good head unit it should sound better
You almost always have to get a steering wheel control module if you plan on retaining those controls and installing an aftermarket head unit. Pretty much I think all cars that have that feature or newer cars today that have information through the touch screen or head unit will now require either at the minimum a chime, steering wheel control model or an entire system module. When I bought my head unit they wanted $150 just for the harness which in the past I’ve always installed them for like $10 in a very self-explanatory, but once I got into thisBose system shit with OnStar and the steering wheel controls. It’s become a damn nightmare. You would think that you hook up a head unit why everything up speakers are play right out of it you hook up a Subwoofer basic shit but he’ll no. It’s a nightmare. I’d probably just spend the extra money to get a plug and play harness and run everything at once instead of staggering, the subwoofer, then buying back speakers, and then front speakers. If I come across any tricks or solutions, I will post. Also, if anyone else has any tips on myself and I’m sure many others would greatly appreciate anything.
Since this video I have completely rewired my entire stereo system. i am no longer using any of the factory wiring except to the head unit. Also I am no longer using the rear pillar speakers.
My o4 silverado has 2 plugs one plug has the amp wired in the other plug does not. Simply switch plugs and bam no more factory amp. No cutting no splicing
Definitely not the easy way... just buy the 2000-2005 saturn harness and repin it to this. So much easier and you dont have to chop up your factory wiring.
If cutting 8 wires and add some cables is not easy for you I really wonder what is... Maybe sitting in the counch watching Netflix is easy enough? In addition On my 2002 Avalanche, My stock amp never powered up no matte what and I have a specific harness espcially for my vehicle. Still didn't work So I decided tobypass the stock amp...
@@JM811Cars Well, on my car there was that shitty factory amp I dind't need, plus some small sub amps hooked directly to each speaker (probably installed by a previous owner) so It was easier for me to do exactly the same as in this viddeo, cut my speakers lead wires in the glove box and then connect directly to the new radio. Nobody needs a 20 year old crappy factory amp with a modern audio... Also as I had issues with the speakers themselves, I ended up doing the whole job, installing brand new speakers at the four corners, just another reason to bypass. But I get your point if you really want to keep everything easily reversible to stock condition. If my four speakers had been working, I would have tried to make the factory amp work with my radio but considering the age of all that stuff, I still think the bypass was the best option.
@@SilentScreamer413 I appreciate you making these video cuz my 2009 chevy malibu is no easy hooking a new face up. Bought the harrness and didn't work . So now trying this out thanks . Should be easy just a little labor . THANKS ONLY VIDEO I SEEN THAT actually shows how to really bypass .
one thing, no one ever states as to why: Why are we keeping the factory amp in there after bypassing it? What are the other wires into it? I really don't want any sort of current going into an amp that inst being used
The factory amp should go to all of your speakers....front driver and passenger, rear driver and passenger and the subwoofer...from what I can tell the tweeters run off the same wires as the regular door speakers.
I forgot to mention in the video...if you want the factory subwoofer and rear pillar speakers to function just tape up the cut wires and plug the harness back in to the factory amp.
Why didn't you just do a continuity test and splice them back to the inputs? That's what I did...less mess and easier to add an amp to later if you want because then each speaker is labeled (if you were smart and labeled them) no need to destroy 2 harnesses. Just remove the plug entirely and nut the wires to their counterparts. Easy peezy
Did you make sure to connect the power antenna/amp turn on wire from your radio to the factory amp? Otherwise you could have everything else wired up and still have no sound.
Why are you cutting anything at all? Isn't there a jump harness to just unplug the connector and plug it into a bypass harness that connects from your new head unit and to your Bose speakers?
@felton jones jr and that still doesn't give that good clarity sound because of the bose amp has some type of special frequency that's y its best to bypass it, I wouldn't pay 120 ethier
Well now mine makes a lot of sense. I was just looking at mine and that's exactly what they did I mine. Just out of curiosity what is the problem with these amps?
Hack installer. Sure he knows a little info. But seriously i know I would want anyone touching my truck with Walmart special tools and cutting factory plugs like that dummy
I love you. Over the past year I’ve wasted so much time and money trying to figure this stuff out and now my Suburban finally talks again
You explained it way better then the others bro thank you
Yoooo, this video saved me so much time and work! THANKS!
Thanks a lot for the video. Saved me a whole lot of time.
It worked on my 2000 Suburban !!! Thanks!!
Helped me out a bunch thanks for the video
Thanks! Do you know if done this way, will the steering wheel controls still function? Mainly the Volume?
This video helped me out a-lot. I have a 2002 Tahoe and i did this and now all my speakers work. I had to tap into the tweeter wires for my front speakers on the doors due to no signal on the original wire. Now it works thanks to this video!!!
Where did you tap into it at for the tweets
@@skrandysavage7549 just tap into your positive and negative from your door speaker
This video just saved me 300 bucks or more. Thanks bru
I just installed new speakers. During install I wasn't sure so I took a guess on positive and negative. Good thing I guess correctly. Thanks for the vid
Great video ! Hopefully this works for my 03 Escalade.
Hey thanks, this video helped me a ton .
This solves the 2 ohm issue too! You can run normal 4 ohm speakers this way. Is there any way to get an aftermarket amp in there?
Very informative,thanks a lot,it helped me. I still have an issue now as I only have sound from my front left speaker and a very low level fromthe rear right one. Nothing from the other speakers....
How did you fix your issue?
@@dabloesco I cut the harness and bypassed the amp. Just rewired all speakers directly to the new audio unit. This was the easiest way and the amp is of noise anyway. Since there of the speakers had issues I also replaced the four with new units. Found out that some active speakers were installed. Don't know if they were factory standard or aftermarket but the sub amps were dead on two of them. The easier and cheapest way was to bin them and install new ones.
I have the 2013 Tahoe LTZ it's has nine speakers, and I want to put after market radio and I have a sub amp and a 4 channel amp I was going to take out of my other car, any suggesting on how should I do the nine speakers?
Cool polarity test!
great video bro i been breaking my head how to bypass the factory amp plus i want keep the steering wheel features i have a 2007 chevy suburban 1500 what’s your recommendation abt that
What if I don't have harness from Walmart? Do I leave factory wire for speakers connected to harness or do slice them still?
Question does the amp have separate wires for tweeter or just front rear left right if the amp is the crossover then it would have separate wires for the tweeters on the output side the reason I ask is if the xover is downstream from the amp then you need to find that so you can use your new speaker crossover or leave the stock one in
I appreciate your video. It was a great help. “This is your factory amplifier… which is a piece of 💩 “ ahahaha. The colors with positive/negative was exactly what I came for. Thank you.
Thanks for this video I had the same problem all of a sudden the guys radio stopped. And this is what happened. The Amp failed. I didn't even bother adding new wires I just spliced the input and output wires together You're right about one thing The system is a POS and the way they wire these cars at GM sucks but at least theres a way around the mess
so lets say on my 2016 tucson, i could just unhook both harnesses from the factory amp splice the speaker wires together right there feom the input to output and i could get sound out of an aftermarket head unit?
Did you get to keep your chime and steering controls? Dvd player?
How are you running the speaker wires back to the radio after you just connected the speaker wire from the speaker to the amp wiring harness???
Does the radio amp fuse have anything to do with that cause it keeps blowing
What is the factory color for the remote wire thou?? This is the only thing holding me up with my 05 Tahoe
hi ,if l want to keep bose amp in the loop its stiil ok and working ,would you tell me which wire is to power it up at the amp
I want to do this on my civic. Do I have to cut / bypass the power, acc, ground, And connect it to the aftermarket radio.?
Thank you!! Thank you!! Very much.. !! This video your steps very easy ah child could even follow LoL!! Thank you..
I noticed you left the other plug left in the factory amp, is there a reason for that? Or could you have unplugged it as well and pulled the factory amp out of the vehicle all together..
Your a life saver
Also off my after market deck I also have a red, black and yellow, where do they attach?
Will this work on a 06 Pontiac g6?..the amp is called a monsoon and I'm not getting any sound out of my speakers
Hey I have a 02 tahoe. I wired a aftermarket radio but I only have my tweeter working . No speaker. Any advice thanks
I did your method today in my 02 Tahoe. Works perfectly and sounds awesome. Thanks for making this video man. btw I used wire nuts for my connections and thats my permanent install. Thanks
99-02 is different then the 03-07 classic trucks. The new trucks are class 2 data bus and the the earlier trucks are standard wiring. Plus the amp is in the middle on the new trucks.
What color wires are for what speakers at the factory radio plug
How would this work for me I got the Bose system so my front door speakers only put out a low signal base only so I can put coaxials in the door
What color is the factory wire that hooks up to the yellow wire
Can u just get a 4 ch amplifier and run the speaker wire from speakers to new amp?
Tried the bypass connector stuff. Didnt work well. Gonna go this route. Tks.
I was thinking of just replacing the factory amp with a better small amp, I have a taramps ts400x4 half the size of the factory amp and i wanted to make a custom cable from the metra 71-2002 to hookup any amp.
Great job
Does your tweeters work to ?
"which is a piece of shit".
No punches held 😂😂
How do you know which plug is which I have 3 plugs on my car
Bro u in Tampa I need your help 🤦🏽♂️
I have a 2002 silverado ext cab and my amp isnt in the center cosole or glove box need help!
What happens to the third row seat pillar speakers and the front twitter pods? Do those just not work anymore? My 04 Yukon has maybe 10 speakers all together, 2 front doors, 2 front tweeter pods, 2 second row doors, 2 third row, 2 third row tweeter pods.
Did you ever end up tackling this issue? Where did you never end up replacing your tweeters?I have been thinking the same thing, I wonder if I can just hook up new door speakers with the proper harness and adapters or is it gonna be another pain in the ass to just install some mids in the door and two new tweeters plug and play until I get a four channel amp and run new wires to them probably instead of a coaxial speakers get the component where it comes with a crossover and Tweeters but until I do that, I would like to put aftermarket speakers. I have to sitting around into the truck, but my luck is gonna end up, not making sound again..
Did you stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night??
first of all, love the video. Second, if I get a new aftermarket radio, is the general thought that the new radio will have enough power to run the 10-speakers and subwoofer in a suburban and therefore do not need the amp? Third, when you disconnect the colored wires on the 'right' side of the amp connector (the ones that go to the speakers) does the new radio have the same colored wires to match? Is that an industry standard? thanks, I might have follow-up questions, but thanks for making video.
I’m wondering the same thing. I went to audio shop for truck and he’s trash but he said I can’t put Bluetooth cause I have premium sound system and it’s not strong enough
what application does one need to bypass factor amp?
Can confirm, 100% works
Rather than use a 9v just turn the radio on and use the balancer /fader one speaker at a time before you tape it up. I go front left then front right. Then do the rears (if any) the same way. If you have good ears you will notice if they are out of phase. The sound will be hollow if they are wired out of phase meaning the negative and positive are wrong. When it’s right you’ll hear a fuller richer sound. Hope that helps anyone.
I'm trying to avoid all that process. I dont know if is possible just to run a wire. a remote wire aftermarket radio to the factory amp. Do you think thats possible. Otherwise i will do all that process. In your videosnsays you can. Do you know what wire i need to connect from the amp to the remote wire ( antenna )
What's up bro nice video. Have a question. Does the factory amp interfere with an aftermarket amp? I cant get power to my aftermarket amp. I'm thinking I have the remote wire hooked up wrong or a bad ground.
Yes remote is the problem find a 12 volt ignition turn on with a meter.
Would this work on a 03 Cadillac Escalade,? That's what I own and I was told does the factory under I should say
it should work, if you have the Bose system it may be a bit different
i have a problem with the speakers cuttting out when the bass comes in a song if i have the radio turned up could it be the factory amp is not strong enough to handle 6 aftermarket speakers i have in my 99 tahoe
I have a 2005 GMC Yukon with Bose system. What do you suggest for adding an Amp and 2 Subs?
Get and amp that has high level inputs and you can use the wires that go to the factory sub or you can get a high level to low level/rca converter. Then just wire up the power and ground to the amp. As far as the remote turn on lead you can run a wire from from a switched ignition source....meaning a source that only supplies power when the ignition is turned on...in your fuse box inside the vehicle to the amp. Or you could ditch the factory radio and replace it with something else that has rca outputs and a remote turn on lead/power antenna
@@mcdizzle7740 By high and low what do you mean? and What if i install a Cheap aftermarket Radio. like a 70$ Touchscreen?
@@cosmicnubb2839 high level inputs are the speaker wires themselves....low level refers to rca's
Did you have to plug the factory amp clip back in to retain power in the clip behind the radio?
No. Since this video I've actually rewired the entire truck with upgraded speaker wire and don't use any of the factory stereo equipment other than the tweeters in the front doors and the rear pillar tweets
@@mcdizzle7740 thanks
So after some research they branch off the woofer in the door using a bass blocker to the tweeter so no crossover in the amp
What about the rear pillar speakers and sub how can I wire them up?
Me too.
How do I do this on a Gmc Acadia xlt 2008
I thi k this is just for ones with like bose or something because i never had a problem with just a stereo but i may be wrong and the aftermarket stereo might be doing almost nothing
This video help me out but.....do you know which one are for the tweeters in the very back?
I can't send you a pick to show so.....
Informative but what's with just using electrical tape?
Does the 2003 Solverado, not have amp in center console?
You got any social media I can ask you some questions on
Why not just cut both the input (from the radio) AND output (to the speakers) from the factory amp and run speed wire to that point? Saves the trouble of clipping behind the radio...
Does this work???
So with the turn on wire dose the factory amp sound the same & dose the steering wheel controls buttons work ?
I'm not sure about the steering wheel controls because mine doesn't have them but as far as sound quality, if you have a good head unit it should sound better
You almost always have to get a steering wheel control module if you plan on retaining those controls and installing an aftermarket head unit. Pretty much I think all cars that have that feature or newer cars today that have information through the touch screen or head unit will now require either at the minimum a chime, steering wheel control model or an entire system module. When I bought my head unit they wanted $150 just for the harness which in the past I’ve always installed them for like $10 in a very self-explanatory, but once I got into thisBose system shit with OnStar and the steering wheel controls. It’s become a damn nightmare. You would think that you hook up a head unit why everything up speakers are play right out of it you hook up a Subwoofer basic shit but he’ll no. It’s a nightmare. I’d probably just spend the extra money to get a plug and play harness and run everything at once instead of staggering, the subwoofer, then buying back speakers, and then front speakers. If I come across any tricks or solutions, I will post. Also, if anyone else has any tips on myself and I’m sure many others would greatly appreciate anything.
My 05 Yukon the amp is under the center console. I have the Bose system well for now that crap has to go. LoL
We're can I get one
ya the 11$ bypass harness that literally just plugs in and takes 2 seconds with no wire cutting is the way to go forsure.
Where did you get the bypass harness from?
@@mariogomez7739 amazon the one i got was for a montecarlo but all you have to do is repin in super easy took maybe 5 mins
Do you have a link showing the repin?
@@choloshamangaming2283 hello can u add da link for da harness u got will it work for an 2002 suburban to
@@tonnylopez9107 it’s called metra 70-2021
I did as you said but don’t can’t get aftermarket subs to work I have power to my amp and the remote it’s connected to the blue wire
are you running an aftermarket amp for your subs?
I got the same fkn problem yes it's aftermarket amp.no sound from sub
Did you ever figure out your issue or what did you end up doing?
@@frankculpepper have you found a fix for yours or brought it in or no luck?
Since this video I have completely rewired my entire stereo system. i am no longer using any of the factory wiring except to the head unit. Also I am no longer using the rear pillar speakers.
How did you take out the amp, i want to take mine out and also put in a new headunit and amp, wondering what the best way to go about it would be
My o4 silverado has 2 plugs one plug has the amp wired in the other plug does not. Simply switch plugs and bam no more factory amp. No cutting no splicing
Do I have to reconnect to amp jack ?
No
But what if my rear tweeters and 8 inch sub are not working do I plug the harness back in
I make it …
Definitely not the easy way... just buy the 2000-2005 saturn harness and repin it to this. So much easier and you dont have to chop up your factory wiring.
If cutting 8 wires and add some cables is not easy for you I really wonder what is... Maybe sitting in the counch watching Netflix is easy enough? In addition On my 2002 Avalanche, My stock amp never powered up no matte what and I have a specific harness espcially for my vehicle. Still didn't work So I decided tobypass the stock amp...
@@SilentScreamer413 like I said, repin the wiring harness, not hack up the factory wiring.
@@JM811Cars Well, on my car there was that shitty factory amp I dind't need, plus some small sub amps hooked directly to each speaker (probably installed by a previous owner) so It was easier for me to do exactly the same as in this viddeo, cut my speakers lead wires in the glove box and then connect directly to the new radio. Nobody needs a 20 year old crappy factory amp with a modern audio... Also as I had issues with the speakers themselves, I ended up doing the whole job, installing brand new speakers at the four corners, just another reason to bypass. But I get your point if you really want to keep everything easily reversible to stock condition. If my four speakers had been working, I would have tried to make the factory amp work with my radio but considering the age of all that stuff, I still think the bypass was the best option.
@@SilentScreamer413 I appreciate you making these video cuz my 2009 chevy malibu is no easy hooking a new face up. Bought the harrness and didn't work . So now trying this out thanks . Should be easy just a little labor . THANKS ONLY VIDEO I SEEN THAT actually shows how to really bypass .
@@jfox788 I didn't make this but it's indeed pretty clear and informative.
one thing, no one ever states as to why: Why are we keeping the factory amp in there after bypassing it? What are the other wires into it? I really don't want any sort of current going into an amp that inst being used
did this dude just destroy his harness for the high output he could get at the speakers ?
So I have all that but my amp has no power and everything is connected and isn’t blown
My factory amp only goes to rear speakers and I have 2 sets of wire for each speakers one for tweeter one for sub what should I do
Great video. Needed it a month ago
The factory amp should go to all of your speakers....front driver and passenger, rear driver and passenger and the subwoofer...from what I can tell the tweeters run off the same wires as the regular door speakers.
I need help I have a 2006 Silverado 1500. .but I DNT see the factory amp in the glove box just on the panel but it's plastic no amp ..I need help ?
In a 2006 it will be under the center console and cup holder. It is a pain in the a!!
My console is a seat but can be a arm rest..? Is it still in there
@@joselara250 Not sure then. Sorry!
@@joselara250 do you have the Bose system in your truck?
I forgot to mention in the video...if you want the factory subwoofer and rear pillar speakers to function just tape up the cut wires and plug the harness back in to the factory amp.
I still don’t have any sound from the factory sub or from the rear pillar speakers
Wait u in Tampa? I’m in Riverview I’ll pay u if u can do this to mine I got a 99 Sierra
I’ve done everything the same way but still don’t have any sound from the factory sub and rear pillars
when doing this you will lose the a pillar tweeters up front along with the rear pillar little speakers and sub.
or just plug it back in then you will keep them.
But what if the factory amp is messed up how do you get the tweeters to work
Why didn't you just do a continuity test and splice them back to the inputs? That's what I did...less mess and easier to add an amp to later if you want because then each speaker is labeled (if you were smart and labeled them) no need to destroy 2 harnesses. Just remove the plug entirely and nut the wires to their counterparts. Easy peezy
Ok I've done everything you said do but I still have no sounds
Did you make sure to connect the power antenna/amp turn on wire from your radio to the factory amp? Otherwise you could have everything else wired up and still have no sound.
Why are you cutting anything at all? Isn't there a jump harness to just unplug the connector and plug it into a bypass harness that connects from your new head unit and to your Bose speakers?
120 bucks for harness
@felton jones jr and that still doesn't give that good clarity sound because of the bose amp has some type of special frequency that's y its best to bypass it, I wouldn't pay 120 ethier
So dark colors positive...light colors are negative...
There is a high pitched noise all around you...
Striped wires are negative.
Can you or someone direct me the right way I’m getting frustrated lol
Now why wouldnt u just cut the inputs and outputs and wire them together
Well now mine makes a lot of sense. I was just looking at mine and that's exactly what they did I mine. Just out of curiosity what is the problem with these amps?
@@alwaystruth4872 they aren’t really amps, they make almost no power and just act as a crossover
@@alwaystruth4872 thanks
I did that worked good. And the rear sub is the green and the blue one on the other plug.
Save some wire
You know you can buy the harness to plug and not cut the wires
where can you buy this harness ?
Lol
Hack installer. Sure he knows a little info. But seriously i know I would want anyone touching my truck with Walmart special tools and cutting factory plugs like that dummy
This does not work for avalanche or Bose so your title is click bait!
May depend on year the models are.