ATE Brake Booster Servo SEAL replacement **STC ONLY** Volvo S60 V70 Mercedes Ford + other cars
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มิ.ย. 2019
- IMPORTANT: please contact URO apaindustries.com/contact BEFORE ORDERING so you make sure to order the right seal for your car. The seal in the video will not fit cars with DSTC, it fits only cars with STC stability control which have a different brake booster model. It appears there are several seal numbers and you need to make sure it MATCHES your vehicle. Complete brake booster/servo removal LHD cars • Volvo S60 V70 and Merc...
Works on Volvo S60 01-09 and on several 01-12 Mercedes models with ATE brake booster servo. Works for various other vehicles for their brake booster seals. Please see the comments section for extra tips and information. It is recommended not to use the white pipe provided by Uro as it may damage the seal.
Use ONLY synthetic grease, the URO seal comes with synthetic dielectric silicone grease. I don't know if synthetic PTFE grease is safe for this seal, better not take a chance - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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I tried to replace this seal with the booster in the car. Your instructions were very informative. But having said that, there was no way in h__l that I was going to get that seal seated. I finally caved and removed the booster from the car. With the booster on the bench it took about 5 minutes to get the seal seated. The tool that Uro includes with the seal was very useful. Uro also included silicone grease. Had I known that I would not have bought an 8 oz tube...
Removing the booster wasn't as bad as I'd feared, and it definitely saved my back because I didn't have to contort myself under the dash for nearly as long. I removed the air cleaner box, moved the fuse box out of the way, removed the valve cover, the cross member and torque mount. Unbolted the abs pump from the side wall. Removed the master cylinder and shoved the MC and ABS pump out of the way. Did not have to remove any brake lines, so no bleeding needed. Wrestled the booster out. The hard air pipe leading to the turbo was a little tight, but manageable. Replaced the seal, then put it all back. Maybe 3 hours total. Next time it'll take me 2. But as Rocky and Apollo Creed said to each other at the end of the movie "ain't gonna be no next time".
No more hiss. No more OBD for a major vacuum leak. Full power restored. And THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS OFF!!!! WooHoo!
You are amazing!!! Just did the job without pulling out the brake booster.
I have a 2003 XC70 and I could manage to get both hands on the rubber (I'm 6'3" and 205lbs) being on my knees outside the car, my right hip on the door opening. In this position I found it easier to push the rubber lip with both of my index finger into the opening and pushing down with both thumbs. Another "trick" I found was using the supplied tube from Uro cutting it to 4 1/4" and using the brake paddle as lever to push down (the metal rod of the brake paddle on top of the tube and pushing down on the brake).
Thanks again without your video I would have gone to a shop and paid $$$.
Excellent! About the URO tube, indeed, it is too long and cannot be used entirely when the seal is inside the car so cutting it is the way to go. Also, about this tube some users noted the 'angled' end of the tube is sharp and may damage the seal. Uro is aware and is now using an updated version of the tube. Thanks for sharing!
For those of you who are wondering... It might be just a littlebit trickier but works just fine on manuals as well!
And also, DO NOT underestimate this mans back and leg support... I feel like I've aged 30 years now 😅
Thank you Peppermint for making this instruction! I just did the job this morning in about 2 (uncomfortable) hours on a 2002 V70. I also ended up cutting the white tube from URO into half and then like Matthiasw73 I used the brake pedal on the tube (flat side to seal) to keep pressure on the seal while working the lip of the seal into the gap with your cardboard cutout tool. Once the seal was in all the way round I reversed the cut tube to use the angled end to press the seal all the way home by rotating it and pressing with the brake pedal. Honestly if I had done this from the beginning I would probably have finished the entire job in 40 minutes. It was a really good suggestion to pad the working space with pillows. Great video and great advice. Thank you again!
Thanks for the feedback and precious tips! Glad it worked. Only one thing, some people did damage the new seal with the angle side of the tube (it may be too sharp and cut the rubber) so for future users careful not to put too much pressure with the tube provided by URO (I've heard URO is going to modify the tube in the future to prevent such damage).
Thanks bro. you are the only volvo channel on youtube that have such amount of videos that helped us we volvo owners as you would never expected . thank you 😘
Hi! Massive massive thanks!!!! I done the brake servo seal on my mk2 Ford Focus 2.0 tdci, manual, right hand drive today. Huge job!!! And certainly not for the faint hearted. It took me around 4 hours from start to finish, although most of that was taken up trying to create a gap big enough between the brake pedal and servo, so I could get the old seal off and the new one on. The main problem I encountered, was that on this particular car, the brake pedal has extra steel housing which goes over the 4 bolts from the servo, making the brake servo seal even harder to gain access to. I started by having to remove the gas pedal, luckily only 3 bolts and a connector. Then removed the steel pin which held the brake servo to the brake pedal, a pair of pliers and screwdriver required, and about ten minutes of trying to get the pliers in the right place to hold the plastic pin and pop it out with the screwdriver. Now for the hardest part. I needed to push the brake pedal completely down then wedge and hold the servo down, then release the brake pedal back up, therefore creating the gap required to get the old seal off and new one on. This actually took me about 2 hours of trying and with various tools to get the right resistance and gap to change the seals around. Truthfully, it was a bit of a nightmare, but I got there in the end. I had emailed URO Parts to see if they had the replacement seal for my vehicle, but unfortunately, they never got back to me. So a trip to the breakers yard was required for the new seal as this part is not available anywhere online or through Ford. I actually highly recommend, if you have the chance, to go to a breakers yard and do a trial run on removing and replacing the seal, as this proved to be a huge learning curve for me and any mistakes made, were made on a scrap vehicle, as opposed to my own. Once the seal was on the servo, ready to be fitted in, I used a plastic bicycle tyre lever and an old credit card with gaffer tape around any sharp edges and a small semi circle cut into it, to help lever the new seal in, similar to the cardboard you used in your video, but I needed something more flexible, as I had less clearance, due to the extra metal plate housing from the brake pedal set up. Getting the new seal in was actually surprisingly easy and only took about ten minutes, thanks to the guidance from your video tutorial. Once it was in and the rubber boot/bellow back on, I turned the engine on and the very annoying hissing sound was gone!!! Thanks to your brilliant video tutorial, I was actually able to completely repair the leaking brake servo on my car, a repair which Ford had quoted (wait for it) £1000 to repair and a local garage £450. The breakers yard had given me the seal for free and the only outlay I had to pay for was the bicycle tyre levers and silicone sealant, which all came to £6.00. I really would like to say a huge, huge thank you to you, If it wasn't for your video, I genuinely believe I wouldn't of had the confidence to carry out such a huge repair. Many many thanks :)))
Hi Tony, I'm very pleased to see it helped, thanks for the very kind words and for sharing your experience ! If you are on VW forums, don't hesitate to share the experience to possibly other car owners. All the best & again, I appreciate your feedback
Great job well done. Hope to do this on my Transit
Peppermint - thank you so much!! Your tutorial is brilliant, every hint or tip appears to be very useful when you try to get this done!
I totally agree with your comment.
thank you for the video very helpful. it's going to help me to replace the seal on my wifes Audi. thank you again.
👍 be sure to read the comments from others, see how difficult this can be
Brilliant video! Going to be replacing the seal on my Ford C Max over the next couple of days. Thank you so much for making such an informative video.
Cheers, let us know how it goes or if you have any questions
Thank you for this excellent video. I got the old seal off just fine but couldn't get the new one on. I probably should have removed the kick plate for extra room but the old seal was actually in great condition and there wasn't really any marking on the shaft so that coupled with the hissing noise makes me think it's a ruptured diaphragm anyway. On to replacing the booster itself, and feeling a lot better about it after removing the old seal and having watched your booster replacement video. I really don't know what I would have done without your tutorials, thank you so much!
Thank you so much for giving me the confidence that this can be done on the vehicle.
I installed a similar kit on a Mercedes ML430. I was able to easily unbolt the brake pedal assembly and use the included install tool after cutting it down.
Inserting the first lip was by far the hardest step. I used a plastic shim to mimic your stiff cardboard tool.
Hi Eric. Thank you for sharing your experience and feedback. Much appreciated.
Yeah it definitely seems like this is the worst step. Once it’s in, I’m sure it won’t be as bad to get the rest in
Excellent video !!!! very descriptive with a lot of details.
What a patient man ,great detailed video and thanks for sharing .
Thanx for very helpful and precise instructions. GREAT JOB!!!
Awesome video! Just completed mine. It took around 4 hours with the new URO seal but it no longer whistles!
Good to hear it worked!
It's very Cleary good job thank you for this video
Outstanding work, we just shared your DIY video on our Facebook page so other mechanics and enthusiasts can learn from your experience! Replacing the seal without removing the booster is very challenging, but it can save a lot of time if you're mechanically skilled and successful. (Update: we're currently fine-tuning the shape of our seal driver tool for better performance.)
Thanks for the kind words. This is especially true on right hand Volvo driving cars where the brake booster cannot removed unless lowering the engine/transmission. All the best
I am looking for the seal for 2000 mercedes c280 w202 I couldn't find it anywhere. Do you think mercedes-benz CLK320 has the same seal?
URO parts are full of doodoo i asked them did they have the same part but keep denying me because i have a classic car that they want i told them the make and model and turned me around for the same part that this video has. also they say that they don't even know what part it is that I'm telling them smh devil is busy
they told me to go to auto zone for their parts which is amazing because they simply make there own parts via the own company and sells to customers like you.
i asked sells did they have parts for older cars they said no just electric cars hahahahahahah jack doodoo
👍 😊 👌 👍 😊 👌 👍 😊 Just did it WORKS !
i used the plastic cylinder too (wich one in the URO kit).
THX SO SO MUCH ! 😊
Welcome. Glad to hear someone else had success.
Seal failure symptoms:
If you hear a hissing when accelerating, before suspecting the brake booster seal, first make sure the large rubber boot at the bottom of the steering column is properly secured to the floor with a large metal ring - otherwise noises from the engine (hissing) can be heard inside the cabin (it can sometimes be an exhaust leak at the flex pipe)
Actual seal failure: hissing when braking or accelerating, vacuum leak, vacuum pump running after starting the car or when shutting the engine off, black smudge over the plunger surface, hard brake pedal before starting the engine, seal popped out from it's place. Be sure to also inspect the two other seals - the one at the vacuum hose inside the engine bay and the one at the brake pedal sensor right behind the brake fluid reservoir (I put some silicone around these). Another item to inspect is the vacuum pump switch, located at the front of the car behind the left headlight.
Think the vacuum pump is only for diesel cars?
Anyway, thanks for the video! im gonna try it soon!
always have a hard pedal in the morning, and is hisses when i press or release the brake pedal..
@@ErMermer Diesel may have different pumps, perhaps for their vacuum engine mounts, but some gasoline engines need a vacuum pump to prime the servo vacuum especially while the engine is still cold and cannot build proper servo vacuum by itself
Brilliant, tutorial, thank you.
Realy it was a hard job
You were capable..
Exlent dear
Yes, one of those jobs that are stressful and not guarantee to succeed. Cheers
Thanks for nice video
This worked for me on my 02 s60 my booster has a different number than the ones listed in Vida and by URO but this was the right seal, I cut the plastic pipe to fit between the pedal and booster and used the cardboard trick. took a little while to get the method down but once the seal is started and sticks rotate the seal itself and keep the point on the pvc where you can see it!
Good to hear
You are the best bro. I think I have a problem thesame to my car s60 but its a manual. I got a small servo oil leak I don't know yet if it is the problem. My servo pump is whining even theres enough oil in the reservoir. Thanks again. I hope the volvo still selling this seals.
Great work! Thanks a lot! Did a same on MB C-Class W203.
@djbigi7052- Hello. What W203 do you have? I am going to do this repair on my 2003 C32 AMG W203. Did you do the repair with the booster in the car? Thank you!
What year?
Awesome 👌
About 6hours of work and replaced whole booster eith kaster cylindel n volvo v70p2 with d5 diesel engine...it needed some elbow grease to take but it was worth it because in most cases it is not only this seal is the problem in the booster
I will try this method
IMPORTANT: please contact URO apaindustries.com/contact BEFORE ORDERING so you make sure to order the right seal for your car. It appears there are several seal numbers and you need to make sure it MATCHES your vehicle.
Use ONLY synthetic grease, the URO seal comes with synthetic dielectric silicone grease. I don't know if synthetic PTFE grease is safe for this seal, better not take a chance
In the US, Fcperuo.com sells complete new ATE booster for round $150 (there's two models, one for 2001, and the other for 2002-up)
MORE INSTALLING TIPS: If the seal keeps popping out while rotating, please read this comment
- At 10:35 I talk about where I put lubricant on the new seal (dielectric grease). I lubricated inside the seal and also outside the seal on the portion that has to go inside (and also the white collar). It think it's important because this helps rotating the seal. Only on the top of the seal where I grab it with my fingers I didn't put lubricant because it's not needed.
- For the tool, use something about 5mm thick, so it grabs properly the extremity of the seal that needs to slide in.
- While rotating the seal, I keep all the 'side' of my left hand pressed against along the already inserted portion of the seal to keep it from popping out.
- Also, if the seal wants to pop out when rotating it, let the booster rod free, to keep an even gap so it doesn't pop out
I also read some people had trouble installing back the grey dust cover (bellow). It is actually very easy when doing it this way: grease it a little inside to slide easier, then press on it at one place with the index and the thumb together, then while keeping the pressure with these two fingers, 'draw' a circle with these fingers (each one goes on one side of the bellow) while crushing the bellow in place. It takes a few seconds to install it this way
People have reported that the red seal sold from Poland doesn't not fit easily (or perhaps not at all). The black URO seal is still good as of 2020
Finally, owners with manual transmissions mentioned the clutch pedal will be in the way. I'm not aware if the pedal can be removed for more space, don't hesitate to share with others your tips on this
How to put the bellow (boot cover) back in place th-cam.com/video/bYk7e0O1tZU/w-d-xo.html
I just installed the URO seal and it is leaking air much more than before. I think the "new and improved material" is just too hard and brittle to properly seal. Since there is no OEM seal or any other available making the URO one the only choice, I would say you pretty much need to replace the entire brake booster when the condition happens.
Thanks for the video. The one you installed is an oil seal, won't it go bad without oil
secondly, I want to know what is the purpose of this seal.
Awaiting your valuable response
Can you recommend a website to buy the seal? I only find full rebuild kits and they re very expensive. Mine is leaking from same area, 1967 ford Fairlane. Thank you for the video.
Is there a way how to check if the problem is seal??or diagram inside the servo??
I replaced the check valve because I heard that noise for a while I wasn’t sure what it was then a couple weeks later I open my hood and the check valve was broken apart. I replaced it today and drove it and came back and now it’s making that noise again. Does this mean I have to replace those seals?
Can you say the part code of that seal ?
where to find 2020 c300 Brake Booster Plunger Seal? Uro is not manufacturing
Hallo,
I AM looking for auch a deal for VW T4.
Where can I find her?
Super video👍👍👍
Do you grease the ring before you place it?
GUYS! This guy is some sort of seal technician or something because i've been working on my 03 xc70 for 2 hours and im near a mental breakdown. Pro tip: before you do anything on the car, pop a few xanax or some other drugs because its going to be painful
Ive remove my servo to put the red seal in. That was real pain in ass. I hope that UOR seal fits better.
I remember that discussion on forums.. do you know who makes the red seal ? The black URO is identical to the genuine original one
@@Peppermint1 the seal is made by Polish company.
Fak... i just bought a red one. And try to fit in.. after huge eforts no luck. So much energy and had to fit the old one. So tired and dispointed.
Great video. Did the vaccum pump stop making the sound?
Yes, it's now quiet when shutting off the engine, only on cold start it's spinning for a while until the engine builds up vacuum - this depends on the engine. Also make sure the vacuum pump switch is in good condition
New seal arrived, and now I have been trying to enter the lip for 6 hours.. I get to enter it to begin with, but it always pops out again when I turn it.
I have watched your video so extremenly many times now, but all the tips and the tool just don’t seem to work for me. I only push the rod after I have tured the seal slightly. But some how the lip won’t stay inside after I turn it. Even though I put on pressure. Starting to go out of ideas
(i made a tool similar to yours by 2 expried credit cards or similar, and glued the together, before making the oval shape)
The credit cards may be too thin and may not push onto the extremity of the lip where it has to slide in. I would try a thicker tool, something like 5mm thick. When I rotate the seal, I keep my index 'sideways' over the inserted portion to keep it in there. Also, I did grease the seal both inside and outside before placing it in - so a little grease everywhere except on the surface where we touch it with the fingers. Also, when rotating it, release any pressure on the booster rod - I only put pressure on the booster rod at the moments when I was inserting the seal, not when I was rotating it (to keep an even gap so it doesn't pop out).
Used your guide to do my seal. Thanks. Not a comfortable job to do.
Glad it worked. And yes, needs almost gymnast skills
@@Peppermint1 you're right there. My back & forearm are gonna be feeling it tomorrow.
hey guys, i live in austria. can i use some other part than the one you recommended? not sure if they deliver to austria.... please help. thank you for the video!
May want to ask these folks from UK as well www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19
I am going to try this repair on my volvo s60. Do you know what measurements the pipe had, and maybe the length of the pipe? Thanks in advance! I ordered the red one btw.
The pipe is 23cm long, 40mm inner dia, 50mm outer dia. One end has and angle to force the seal in by small portions. See the IPD video in the video description. However, if the brake booster is not removed from the car, the pipe cannot be used because it's too long to fit - it need to be cut shorter but I don't know by how much. If keeping the brake booster inside the car, I would try to press the seal with tools like ones I used - I don't know how well the pipe will work, and it's already a very risky try (may well not succeed). Also, I'm not aware if he red seal has exactly the same overall size as the original seal, someone said he couldn't press the red seal in.
@@Peppermint1 ah oké I thought you recommended the red seal 🤔 maybe I would buy the original as well. If I shortened the tube (self made) then I would maybe be able to get it in quicker. Otherwise I will just make a cardboard tool like you made and go about it slow and gentle 👍🏻
@@GordoKami I only had the black one (the URO), not sure who is making the red one. My take on using the tube is it's going to work only if the booster is removed from the car. If the booster is still in the car, it's so difficult to install the new seal like in the video, I'm only guessing that with the tube the chances to do it are even worse. Handling the tube above the pedals is going to be very difficult. The problem is, once the old seal removed, if the new one doesn't go in, the car will need be towed and pay for a garage to remove the booster. Good to know the risk.
Hi, can you please give me the part number. I've tried but cannot see it in any comments. Wanting to order from local dealer in Australia. Thank you! :)
Thanks for asking, the part is Brake Booster/Servo Seal URO Parts 0014300708S here's two links from Ebay (available as of Oct 2019)
Seller 1 www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Brake-Booster-Seal-URO-Parts-0014300708S/143388953340?epid=243692265&hash=item2162a5cafc:g:RtkAAOSwlQddlT0b
Seller 2 (cheaper but out of stock) www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Brake-Booster-Plunger-Seal-Kit-URO-For-Mercedes-W212-W204-W203-W163-X204-/192370789193
Salut.Dacă pedala de frână e tare ,și cu motorul oprit se aude doar o data o răsuflare de aer în interiorul mașinii,sa rupt membrana din servo?masina mea S60 nu mai frânează, și nu pierde lichid ,e de vina tulumba?Ai vreun videoclip despre asa ceva?multumesc
Pedala e tare si cu motorul pornit? Cand motorul e oprit, pedala devine tare dupa ce e apasata 2-3 ori pentru ca la fiecare apasare se consuma din vacuumul acumulat cand motorul mergea - asta e normal. Daca pedala e tare si cand motorul merge, e o problema, poate ca garnitura din film a iesit din locul ei, din pacate garnitura e ascunsa sub un plastic culoare gris ca un acordeon - poti sa it tragi la o parte sa te uiti sub el dar e greu de pus la loc. Iti dai seama imediat daca garnitura a iesit de la locul ei
I hear hissing only when i press brake...not when depress?
It could be the same issue. May want to have a close look with the flash light - not easy to do because of very tight space around
could you give the part number of the parts?
Yes, see two comments bellow Cheers
Did you get the part number? I cannot find it..
I’m stuck on the second step, I cannot get the two ribs in at all. Need help!
Use the card board piece to push on the seal from the sides, and may also push sidewise on the white cylinder to increase the gap on the side where you are pressing the seal in at that moment - may want to press on the white cylinder then to keep it in that position with a piece of wood stuck between the cylinder and some other surface around
@@Peppermint1 I have the booster out of the car now and it is still refusing to go in. The first ridge actually ended up ripping off, and the top of the seal caves in. My car has DSTC (it’s an S60R) so maybe that makes a little difference cause I’m pretty sure the STC and DSTC boosters are a little bit different.
@@connormorse1010 The booster for DSTC appears to have a different part indeed, I'm going to update the video title www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-power-brake-booster-s60-s80-v70-xc70-ate-31273684a#fitment
@@Peppermint1 do you have any suggestions for what I should do? My old seal was hissing and falling apart.
Steering column removal (for cars with clutch pedal) th-cam.com/video/atgnxtHoao8/w-d-xo.html
UOR seal used Uro Part no. 0014300708S - look up on Ebay (it includes a pack of dielectric grease) - the tube tool can damage the seal
If needed - Brake booster (Vacuum Servo) removal Volvo S60 - be sure to use extensions + drill th-cam.com/video/jKcDOLIYR3A/w-d-xo.html Fcpeuro.com may be selling a brake booster for some Volvo S60 www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-power-brake-booster-s60-s80-v70-xc70-ate-30793673a#fitment
DIY Volvo S60 repairs th-cam.com/play/PLl-l6yge4ast4eLeuPpECTts0FSVSOT_c.html
what this seal is called? i require this for ford ranger px
I would call it "brake pedal plunger seal"
Yeah this job is pissing me off. I’m about ready to destroy this damn thing lol
I really regret that I startet this project... I really can’t get to tuck the lip in all the way around... not sure what to do anymore.... :(
Don't get discouraged. Do you use the tool in the video to push the seal from the side ? Also push sideways on the metal rod to increase the gap at the place where you want to insert the seal.
Yes, but I cannot seem to get the tool to work due to space. If I use the tool, I cannot see what I am doing.
So far it seems like I can etter the lip at one end. But as I turn the seal bit by bit, it just seems to jump out at some other place again.
Did you lube the seal also on the outside ? This helps it slide and rotate. Are you also pushing it in in two steps? When I am rotating it, I keep pressing down a little with my fingers on the section that got already in. And I'm rotating rater slowly. Try not pushing the metal rod sideways while rotating the seal, only when pressing a section in.
Peppermint it just wont in.. and now the new seal cracked as well xD
Have to try to get the old one in place... been trying for 5 hours now, and getting really tired (bad work position).
Is it safe to drive without the seal? If not I must consider ordering towing to a workshop :/
@@SirOlsen1 Øisten Olsen Sorry it didn't work.. Was is the black seal from URO ? If you try to put the old one in place, be sure to use the side tool when pressing down the last segment.
I'm not sure about driving without the seal. The brakes will be hard to operate - and the engine will have an important vacuum leak. I would try at least removing the vacuum hose from the brake booster and block it with something, as for the brakes, need to drive and see if can brake good enough to be safe.
Here's our video showing how to install the seal with the booster removed from the car: th-cam.com/video/VheQtHwWO5s/w-d-xo.html You should share your video in the Tech section of the Peachparts forum, no doubt other DIY enthusiasts will find it helpful: www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/
Hi, thanks for the suggestion, I've added a post on that forum Cheers
@@Peppermint1 We noticed that Benz***ld deleted your post. Their moderators probably think you are a URO employee or that we paid you to make the video, which is obviously not the case considering you have LOTS of videos and 5,100+ subscribers.
@@Uroparts This is unfortunate, I sent the administrators a message, maybe there was a confusion somewhere. Ultimately, it's the forum's members that will miss an opportunity for a quick inexpensive fix. Will see how they follow up.
OKOKOK
OK OK Arigato!