Very important what he's doing at 2:50 : notice he is using the end of the pressing pipe that is cut and an 'angle' so he doesn't apply pressure all over the seal, but only over a small section of the seal at a time. Trying to force all the seal in all at once will not work and may put too much force and damage it
mine got damaged but not the outer part it was where the larger rib meets the seal it just tore off. I wonder if I need to take a piece of plastic and push in the meaty part of the seal to keep it from shearing off.
Fits MB C class w204 c220 cdi 2008 perfectly. I replaced without removing brake booster. Removed the brake pedal assembly to gain more space, then put those bolts back to hold the booster steady. The old seal came out easilly without a special tool - just by hands. Shortened the tube end to be just a little longer than the booster fork end. Took a mirror for better view around. Used my fingers to put seal under the booster edge. Hammering was unsucsessful, so I took a lever, found a good edge somewhere under the steering wheel, then pressed the tube with lever carefully (spinning the tube and pressing all around) and it got to the place without a problem!
I was able to install this in my 2003 ml 350 without removing the brake booster. I took me about 1.5 hrs. I did have to cut the plastic tube in half, but WAAAY easier them removing the booster . Works great, the brake pedal is much firmer.
I removed the pin from the brake peddle to the shaft Then I removed 3 bolts for the brake assembly then remove the according then pry the old seal out with a plastic tool, so you don't damage the shaft get silicon grease and put a thin layer on new seal put the seal on per the video I cut the white tube in half and used 1 end to push on the seal the other curved half, i used a small sledge hammer to hit the pipe keep hitting the pipe while turning it in small moves like the video I used a small dental mirror, the size on a dime to make sure it was sealed 360 degrees Reverse steps and your done This is off the top of my head from 3 months ago Do this at your own risk. good luck
Finally a definitive solution to a problem that plague ATE boosters for decades! The Mercedes M-Class vehicles was one of the most affected by this defect and until now replacing the whole booster has been the only solution available, besides adaptations not guaranteed to last long. Now we can just replace this darn seal and fix this issue in a efficient and cost effective way. Great!
UPDATE: I finished this job from under the dash on my 2004 ML500, now let me say this AND LISTEN CLOSELY: If you have a bad back, or no to little patience, DONT TRY THIS!!! This job is a lot like sex in the dark, its all about feeling what you're doing. Having a lift would make this so much easier, you can bring the car up enough to stand next to the car as you work under the dash, if you're gonna do it on the floor, make sure you have enough room next to the car to lay out, if you have some kind of lounger or long bench that you can lay on thats level with the floor of the car that would be the best. I would make a custom platform for this job that you can lay on right along side of the car, that would make it a breeze. I'm a 54-year old ex-mechanic who's had spinal surgery, so if i can do this ANYONE CAN!!! You need to cut the setting pvc tube in half to be able to get enough power into your strike, I lost the brake pedal clip, so a cotter pin works just as good. Another important thing, after you remove the brake pedal assembly, put back 2 bolts to hold the booster in place as you work, otherwise the in-and-out movement of the booster whenever you touch it will make this job impossible. Now whennyou finish the job and you've done it right, when you first start the car the brake light will be on and it will stay on, but it will go out after you stop and start the car after pumping the brakes a few times.
I just got one of these and when I was knocking the seal with the hammer to seat the final rib of the seal it split on me... I just ordered another one and am praying it works the way it did on this video.
Hi Mr Peach, are you in the USA? Please contact us via our APA Industries website with your purchase confirmation details, and we'll be happy to mail you a couple replacement seals!
Would you provide me a link to a video on how to remove and put back the break booster. hopefully on a 2002 Volvo s80. Or some instructions on how to do the whole process? thanks
Hi, our repair kit replaces ATE vacuum seal 03.7718-5018.1, is that the part number on the seal in your booster? Our application list is undoubtedly incomplete (we add additional compatible vehicles as we discover them), here's the list so far: www.uroparts.com/uro/inventory/show/11128
I did this on my mercedes ML500 2003 and installed it while the booster was still in the car. It works great however, the bas/esp light came on after the install and i can’t get it out of Park. Any suggestions?
Hi Julian, if you can't get it the car out of park, you may have accidentally bumped the brake switch while working on the booster. If the car doesn't know you have the brake pedal depressed, it won't let you move the transmission lever. For the ABS/ESP light, your ABS module may be corroded or failed, see this video: th-cam.com/video/MBtx0XWhmy4/w-d-xo.html
Hi Pine, we offer the right Engine Mount 31262676 and left Engine Mount 31277442 or 31316498 (depends on your chassis number) for the 2008 S40, which are available at great prices from online retailers. Unfortunately we don't offer any brake booster components for that model.
This isn’t working on my 2005 Volvo S60R. I have the booster out of the car and I have the seal seated, but it just isn’t going any farther than the first ridge. I followed all the directions in the video, but the first ridge on the seal ended up ripping off and the top of the seal started caving in. Help please! My car currently is underivable because of this.
Hi Kubak, like it shows in the video, hissing behind the dash is a sign that the vacuum booster seal is worn and leaking badly. Please have your mechanic take a look for a professional diagnosis.
@@Uropartswell I'm in the middle of doing it right now, it seems that a little piece of the old rubber seal ripped off, when i tried to pick it out, it just fell away inside. It doesn't seem to be an issue and it doesn't seem to me to be obstructing anything, it just disappeared within the crevices of the plunger. Its not in the seal area, it was a minute little piece and it really dont seem to me to be an issue that will cause a problem.
UPDATE: I finished this job from under the dash on my 2004 ML500, now let me say this AND LISTEN CLOSELY: If you have a bad back, or no to little patience, DONT TRY THIS!!! Having a lift would make this so much easier, you can bring the car up enough to stand next to the car as you work under the dash, if you're gonna do it on the floor, make sure you have enough room next to the car to lay out, if you have some kind of lounger or long bench that you can lay on thats level with the floor of the car that would be the best. I would make a custom platform for this job that you can lay on right along side of the car, that would make it a breeze. I'm a 54-year old ex-mechanic who's had spinal surgery, so if i can do this ANYONE CAN!!! You need to cut the setting pvc tube in half to be able to get enough power into your strike, I lost the brake pedal clip, so a cotter pin works just as good. Another important thing, after you remove the brake pedal assembly, put back 2 bolts to hold the booster in place as you work, otherwise the in-and-out movement of the booster whenever you touch it will make this job impossible. Now whennyou finish the job and you've done it right, when you first start the car the brake light will be on and it will stay on, but it will go out after you stop and start the car after pumping the brakes a few times.
My brakes make that hissing noise when i depress them instead of when you release like in your video. Is this still a symptom of the seal? I also have other strange issues such as a choppy idle and the engine will sometimes rev when I am braking to a stop. I am wondering if all of this can be the leaking brake booster.
Hi Adam, yes that sounds like a leaking booster. The hissing sound is air being sucked into your engine's intake, and that extra air going into the engine is why it revs. A professional mechanic has ways of confirming the location of the vacuum leak before you start replacing parts.
@@Uroparts yea I tested the other day by mashing the brake pedal a lot and saw the rpm’s fluctuate. Taking it to the Mech tomorrow. I’ve had this issue for years but I don’t know how every mechanic missed it my theory is that the leak happens when depressing the brake as you said so a smoke test didn’t show anything. I bought your kit to fix the little rubber gasket. Will that likely solve the issue or do I need a whole new booster?
@@Dnasty1 What is your vehicle year and model? If our seal is the correct replacement for a leaking original seal in your specific booster, it should take care of it. Occasionally a mechanic or DIY will damage our seal while attempting installation, if that happens just send us an email with your proof of purchase details and we can mail you another one.
Hi Grzegorz, it would be extremely difficult to replace the seal with the booster installed in the vehicle, so we don't recommend attempting it. However, we did recently receive a phone call from a DIY enthusiast (perhaps it was you?) who successfully replaced the seal with the booster in the vehicle, and said the repair is working great. Kudos to this enthusiast, mad skills!
Hello URO, my Mercedes c300 only sometimes it hisses with very low sound, and most of time it disappears.and it didnot affect the performance... Is it normal?
Hi Dion, you'd have to have a professional mechanic investigate the issue, but it could be your brake booster plunger seal starting to leak. When it gets bad enough, it can affect braking performance.
Please go to www.rockauto.comand use the Part Number Search tab at the top of the page to search for Part# 0014300708S. They have great prices and low international shipping on our products!
Hi Filip, please go to www.rockauto.com and use the "Part Number Search" tab at the top of the page to search for part number "0014300708S". Rock Auto has great prices and low international shipping on our products!
We don't list this kit for your vehicle, but that doesn't mean it isn't compatible. There are many ATE brake boosters that use this particular seal, so it's difficult for us to find them all. Check the seal on your brake booster to see if it is marked with part number 03.7718-5028.1. If it is, then it will work. Please let us know if it does, so we can add your vehicle to our data. Thanks!
URO Parts the number on the seal is 03.7718-5018.1 ATE will it still work for me ? Only one number is different but the seal in this video looks identical
@@sinsizzerb7790 Sorry but we don't have any information about ATE seal 03.7718-5018.1, and don't know how similar the seal is in shape or dimension. If you have a backup vehicle and don't mind your C250 being down temporarily, you could gamble and buy our kit to see if the seal is similar enough to work. Worst case scenario you're only out the cost of the seal kit, since you'd have to buy a new booster anyway. If the seals are the same, please let us know!
Update: I ordered this booster kit for my 2010 Mercedes c250 (rwd) sport. My brake booster part number is 005 430 8530. And this seal was the same seal used in my kit. Hope this can help someone else. Thanks
We don't show it fitting your vehicle, but that doesn't mean it won't. There are many brake boosters that use this seal so it's difficult for us to find them all. Check the seal on your brake booster to see if it is marked with part number 03.7718-5028.1. If it is then it will work. Make sure to let us know if it does so we can add it to our data! :)
Hi David, "Brake Booster Plunger Seal Kit 001 430 0708" is for late-model cars, and does not fit your 1967 250SE. Our kit fits these vehicles: apaindustries.com/parts/11128 Unfortunately this is the only kit we offer, sorry we can't help you.
@@jayvirtusio1081 We don't sell direct, so please visit www.rockauto.com and use the "Part Number Search" tab at the top of the page. Then search for part number "0014300708S". RockAuto has very reasonable international shipping rates.
Hello, thanks for the great videos and guidance for DIY repairs. Please suggest dealer in UK where I can purchase Brake Booster Plunger Seal for Volvo S80 2001 part No 0014300708S. I found it in ebay but only with delivery from US. Cheers.
Go to www.rockauto.com and use the Part Number Search tab at the top of the page. Then search for part number 0014300708S. They have low international shipping rates.
We don't list this kit for the Freelander, but our kit is a replacement for ATE seal part number 03.7718-5028.1, please check the part number on your seal to see if it's the same.
We have not confirmed it will fit your vehicle, but that doesn't mean it doesn't. You'd have to confirm if your booster seal was marked with the number 03.7718-5028.1.
be careful when you get the janky pvc tube if you buy this product, mine was cut poorly at a bad angle on both sides and could not properly use the tube, vary disappointed in myself for trying to use the tube they had giving me, now I need another seal.
Excellent work and video Peppermint, thanks for posting! We're currently fine-tuning the shape of our seal driver tool for better performance, which will be a running change.
Very important what he's doing at 2:50 : notice he is using the end of the pressing pipe that is cut and an 'angle' so he doesn't apply pressure all over the seal, but only over a small section of the seal at a time. Trying to force all the seal in all at once will not work and may put too much force and damage it
Good eye Peppermint, that's exactly right!
mine got damaged but not the outer part it was where the larger rib meets the seal it just tore off. I wonder if I need to take a piece of plastic and push in the meaty part of the seal to keep it from shearing off.
Fits MB C class w204 c220 cdi 2008 perfectly. I replaced without removing brake booster. Removed the brake pedal assembly to gain more space, then put those bolts back to hold the booster steady. The old seal came out easilly without a special tool - just by hands. Shortened the tube end to be just a little longer than the booster fork end. Took a mirror for better view around. Used my fingers to put seal under the booster edge. Hammering was unsucsessful, so I took a lever, found a good edge somewhere under the steering wheel, then pressed the tube with lever carefully (spinning the tube and pressing all around) and it got to the place without a problem!
Great ingenuity and work Mindaugas, thank you for your report! Glad you were able to lever the seal driver, that makes a lot of sense in a tight area.
Hi ! Can you tell me if this method can be used on 2010 W212 E300 ? Thanks !
I was able to install this in my 2003 ml 350 without removing the brake booster. I took me about 1.5 hrs. I did have to cut the plastic tube in half, but WAAAY easier them removing the booster . Works great, the brake pedal is much firmer.
Hi, i will be attempting to replace the seal. Can you please advise on how to disassemble the brake arm. Thanks.
On the ml their are 3 nuts holding the brake assembly. No need to remove the spring. Remove the brake plunger clip and away it goes
Excellent work Arthur, very ingenious! We'll add your tip to the video description.
Do you happen to have a video of this repair process? Or any step by step instructions? I have a 2003 ML 350 with this same issue. thank-you.
I removed the pin from the brake peddle to the shaft
Then I removed 3 bolts for the brake assembly
then remove the according
then pry the old seal out with a plastic tool, so you don't damage the shaft
get silicon grease and put a thin layer on new seal
put the seal on per the video
I cut the white tube in half and used 1 end to push on the seal
the other curved half, i used a small sledge hammer to hit the pipe
keep hitting the pipe while turning it in small moves like the video
I used a small dental mirror, the size on a dime to make sure it was sealed 360 degrees
Reverse steps and your done
This is off the top of my head from 3 months ago
Do this at your own risk. good luck
Finally a definitive solution to a problem that plague ATE boosters for decades! The Mercedes M-Class vehicles was one of the most affected by this defect and until now replacing the whole booster has been the only solution available, besides adaptations not guaranteed to last long. Now we can just replace this darn seal and fix this issue in a efficient and cost effective way. Great!
What do u mean adaptations don’t last long transmission???
WELL DONE, I wish most other Tubers would do this good.
UPDATE: I finished this job from under the dash on my 2004 ML500, now let me say this AND LISTEN CLOSELY: If you have a bad back, or no to little patience, DONT TRY THIS!!! This job is a lot like sex in the dark, its all about feeling what you're doing. Having a lift would make this so much easier, you can bring the car up enough to stand next to the car as you work under the dash, if you're gonna do it on the floor, make sure you have enough room next to the car to lay out, if you have some kind of lounger or long bench that you can lay on thats level with the floor of the car that would be the best. I would make a custom platform for this job that you can lay on right along side of the car, that would make it a breeze. I'm a 54-year old ex-mechanic who's had spinal surgery, so if i can do this ANYONE CAN!!! You need to cut the setting pvc tube in half to be able to get enough power into your strike, I lost the brake pedal clip, so a cotter pin works just as good. Another important thing, after you remove the brake pedal assembly, put back 2 bolts to hold the booster in place as you work, otherwise the in-and-out movement of the booster whenever you touch it will make this job impossible. Now whennyou finish the job and you've done it right, when you first start the car the brake light will be on and it will stay on, but it will go out after you stop and start the car after pumping the brakes a few times.
I just got one of these and when I was knocking the seal with the hammer to seat the final rib of the seal it split on me... I just ordered another one and am praying it works the way it did on this video.
Hi Mr Peach, are you in the USA? Please contact us via our APA Industries website with your purchase confirmation details, and we'll be happy to mail you a couple replacement seals!
Would you provide me a link to a video on how to remove and put back the break booster. hopefully on a 2002 Volvo s80. Or some instructions on how to do the whole process? thanks
Never mind, I found it over here: th-cam.com/video/saX-GG6s1Ck/w-d-xo.html
That is brilliant! never expected this. Can you confirm this will fit a Brake booster for Mercedes ATE 3.6762-0402.4 If so I am off to buy the kit.
Hi, our repair kit replaces ATE vacuum seal 03.7718-5018.1, is that the part number on the seal in your booster? Our application list is undoubtedly incomplete (we add additional compatible vehicles as we discover them), here's the list so far: www.uroparts.com/uro/inventory/show/11128
@@Uroparts how about G class? W463
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I did this on my mercedes ML500 2003 and installed it while the booster was still in the car. It works great however, the bas/esp light came on after the install and i can’t get it out of Park. Any suggestions?
Hi Julian, if you can't get it the car out of park, you may have accidentally bumped the brake switch while working on the booster. If the car doesn't know you have the brake pedal depressed, it won't let you move the transmission lever. For the ABS/ESP light, your ABS module may be corroded or failed, see this video: th-cam.com/video/MBtx0XWhmy4/w-d-xo.html
Where can i get a complete booster overall kit for a Volvo S40 2.4D 2008 and engine mountings?
Hi Pine, we offer the right Engine Mount 31262676 and left Engine Mount 31277442 or 31316498 (depends on your chassis number) for the 2008 S40, which are available at great prices from online retailers. Unfortunately we don't offer any brake booster components for that model.
This isn’t working on my 2005 Volvo S60R. I have the booster out of the car and I have the seal seated, but it just isn’t going any farther than the first ridge. I followed all the directions in the video, but the first ridge on the seal ended up ripping off and the top of the seal started caving in. Help please! My car currently is underivable because of this.
Hi Connor, what is the tiny part number on your original Volvo seal?
My brakes his in the same area but only when I brake.. should I replace the Sam's part?
Hi Don, do you have one of the vehicles on this list? apaindustries.com/parts/11128
Please make the seal for other ATE models. My Jag XJ plays whistle 🥲
Thanks for the suggestion!
Hi, When pressing the brakes I can hear hissing sound like on the video, is it the seal on the servo? It’s hisssing only while pressing in
Hi Kubak, like it shows in the video, hissing behind the dash is a sign that the vacuum booster seal is worn and leaking badly. Please have your mechanic take a look for a professional diagnosis.
Supposedly this can be done without removing the booster and I guess I'm gonna find out about it soon😮
That will be EXTREMELY difficult and is not recommended, but it has been done before: th-cam.com/video/saX-GG6s1Ck/w-d-xo.html
@@Uropartswell I'm in the middle of doing it right now, it seems that a little piece of the old rubber seal ripped off, when i tried to pick it out, it just fell away inside. It doesn't seem to be an issue and it doesn't seem to me to be obstructing anything, it just disappeared within the crevices of the plunger. Its not in the seal area, it was a minute little piece and it really dont seem to me to be an issue that will cause a problem.
UPDATE: I finished this job from under the dash on my 2004 ML500, now let me say this AND LISTEN CLOSELY: If you have a bad back, or no to little patience, DONT TRY THIS!!! Having a lift would make this so much easier, you can bring the car up enough to stand next to the car as you work under the dash, if you're gonna do it on the floor, make sure you have enough room next to the car to lay out, if you have some kind of lounger or long bench that you can lay on thats level with the floor of the car that would be the best. I would make a custom platform for this job that you can lay on right along side of the car, that would make it a breeze. I'm a 54-year old ex-mechanic who's had spinal surgery, so if i can do this ANYONE CAN!!! You need to cut the setting pvc tube in half to be able to get enough power into your strike, I lost the brake pedal clip, so a cotter pin works just as good. Another important thing, after you remove the brake pedal assembly, put back 2 bolts to hold the booster in place as you work, otherwise the in-and-out movement of the booster whenever you touch it will make this job impossible. Now whennyou finish the job and you've done it right, when you first start the car the brake light will be on and it will stay on, but it will go out after you stop and start the car after pumping the brakes a few times.
How was the dust boot / dust cover removed? I have this kit and my brake booster looks similar but the dust boot hole is too small to pull over.
And my question was answered in the instructions provided XD
Thanks URO. I was worried it would tear, but it was fine just pulling it off.
@@kylerichardson8559 Excellent Kyle, thanks for the update!
My brakes make that hissing noise when i depress them instead of when you release like in your video. Is this still a symptom of the seal? I also have other strange issues such as a choppy idle and the engine will sometimes rev when I am braking to a stop. I am wondering if all of this can be the leaking brake booster.
Hi Adam, yes that sounds like a leaking booster. The hissing sound is air being sucked into your engine's intake, and that extra air going into the engine is why it revs. A professional mechanic has ways of confirming the location of the vacuum leak before you start replacing parts.
@@Uroparts yea I tested the other day by mashing the brake pedal a lot and saw the rpm’s fluctuate. Taking it to the Mech tomorrow. I’ve had this issue for years but I don’t know how every mechanic missed it my theory is that the leak happens when depressing the brake as you said so a smoke test didn’t show anything. I bought your kit to fix the little rubber gasket. Will that likely solve the issue or do I need a whole new booster?
@@Dnasty1 What is your vehicle year and model? If our seal is the correct replacement for a leaking original seal in your specific booster, it should take care of it. Occasionally a mechanic or DIY will damage our seal while attempting installation, if that happens just send us an email with your proof of purchase details and we can mail you another one.
@@Uroparts I have a 2010 Mercedes e550 coupe. It has the m273 engine.
@@Dnasty1 No problem! URO Brake Booster Seal Kit 001 430 0708S fits the 2010-2013 base-model E550.
I was wondering If I could change this seal withou removing vacuum booster ('servo')
Hi Grzegorz, it would be extremely difficult to replace the seal with the booster installed in the vehicle, so we don't recommend attempting it. However, we did recently receive a phone call from a DIY enthusiast (perhaps it was you?) who successfully replaced the seal with the booster in the vehicle, and said the repair is working great. Kudos to this enthusiast, mad skills!
Please, what's this material you put to that seevo? Is it glue or silcone?
Hi Ebrahem, the clear liquid in the tube is silicone grease, which lubricates the rubber seal and helps minimize air leakage.
@@Uroparts thanks
Hello URO, my Mercedes c300 only sometimes it hisses with very low sound, and most of time it disappears.and it didnot affect the performance... Is it normal?
Hi Dion, you'd have to have a professional mechanic investigate the issue, but it could be your brake booster plunger seal starting to leak. When it gets bad enough, it can affect braking performance.
cuff for vacuum brake booster MADA Tribute 2001. room?
Hi Geha, sorry but we don't offer a brake booster seal for the 2001 Mazda Tribute.
Where can I buy this? Local distributor for Czech ? Flag: Czechia
Please go to www.rockauto.comand use the Part Number Search tab at the top of the page to search for Part# 0014300708S. They have great prices and low international shipping on our products!
Do you have a reseller in Sweden?
Hi Filip, please go to www.rockauto.com and use the "Part Number Search" tab at the top of the page to search for part number "0014300708S". Rock Auto has great prices and low international shipping on our products!
@@Uroparts Thank you!
what to do when that white plastic is brocken?
Hi Tarikullah, if the white plastic plunger is broken, you'll probably have to buy a complete new assembly.
Can you replace this seal on a 2010 Mercedes c250 without removing the booster. Because you can get to this seal behind the brake
We don't list this kit for your vehicle, but that doesn't mean it isn't compatible. There are many ATE brake boosters that use this particular seal, so it's difficult for us to find them all. Check the seal on your brake booster to see if it is marked with part number 03.7718-5028.1. If it is, then it will work. Please let us know if it does, so we can add your vehicle to our data. Thanks!
URO Parts the number on the seal is 03.7718-5018.1 ATE will it still work for me ? Only one number is different but the seal in this video looks identical
@@sinsizzerb7790 Sorry but we don't have any information about ATE seal 03.7718-5018.1, and don't know how similar the seal is in shape or dimension. If you have a backup vehicle and don't mind your C250 being down temporarily, you could gamble and buy our kit to see if the seal is similar enough to work. Worst case scenario you're only out the cost of the seal kit, since you'd have to buy a new booster anyway. If the seals are the same, please let us know!
Update:
I ordered this booster kit for my 2010 Mercedes c250 (rwd) sport.
My brake booster part number is 005 430 8530. And this seal was the same seal used in my kit. Hope this can help someone else.
Thanks
Thanks for the update Sin Sizzerb, we'll let our engineers know!
Excellent job!Finally!Will this fit Volvo S40 2.0D 2007?
We don't show it fitting your vehicle, but that doesn't mean it won't. There are many brake boosters that use this seal so it's difficult for us to find them all. Check the seal on your brake booster to see if it is marked with part number 03.7718-5028.1. If it is then it will work. Make sure to let us know if it does so we can add it to our data! :)
@@Uroparts Thanks guy's!Will do!
@@Uroparts yes it fits
Do you have a seal for the GM brake boosters gm part number 5465302 looks visually the same
Hi Modelfreak125, what specific vehicle uses GM part number 54-65302? Not finding that part number.
Can I bye a kit for ate51 for my 250Se Mercedes -67?
Hi David, "Brake Booster Plunger Seal Kit 001 430 0708" is for late-model cars, and does not fit your 1967 250SE. Our kit fits these vehicles: apaindustries.com/parts/11128 Unfortunately this is the only kit we offer, sorry we can't help you.
is this one works on ml320 year 2000?appreciate the reply.
Hi Jay, our repair kit fits the 1998-2003 ML320, as well as other Mercedes, Volkswagen, and Volvo models listed here: apaindustries.com/parts/11128
@@Uroparts Ok I need one ,how much is the shipment to the phils?let me know how to order from you guys?thanks!
@@jayvirtusio1081 We don't sell direct, so please visit www.rockauto.com and use the "Part Number Search" tab at the top of the page. Then search for part number "0014300708S". RockAuto has very reasonable international shipping rates.
Do you made it for w168?
We do not, but thanks for the suggestion!
Hello, thanks for the great videos and guidance for DIY repairs. Please suggest dealer in UK where I can purchase Brake Booster Plunger Seal for Volvo S80 2001 part No 0014300708S. I found it in ebay but only with delivery from US. Cheers.
Go to www.rockauto.com and use the Part Number Search tab at the top of the page. Then search for part number 0014300708S. They have low international shipping rates.
URO Parts thanks
Available for purchase here: www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/365320/Brake-Booster-Piston-Seal-0014300708SA/
Appreciate it. Is this kit still available cant seem to find it. Ml55 amg 2000
Hi Wayne, it's still available, please search online for "URO Brake Booster Plunger Seal 0014300708" to find retailers that offer the kit.
@@Uroparts Perfect Appreciate - just last week I purchase some sway bay bushing inner and outer. Thanks again. Any videos on how to install?
Will this fit land rover Freelander 2 (2008) please?
We don't list this kit for the Freelander, but our kit is a replacement for ATE seal part number 03.7718-5028.1, please check the part number on your seal to see if it's the same.
Do you have a canadian reseller for this item? thanks.
Please contact Lordco Auto Parts.
Will this fit a 07 S40 and do uk have. UK stockist?
We have not confirmed it will fit your vehicle, but that doesn't mean it doesn't. You'd have to confirm if your booster seal was marked with the number 03.7718-5028.1.
URO Parts thanks. Any UK stockist?
Please email us at sales@uroparts.com and we'll be happy to help.
Where can i buy this?????
badfamemedia www.rockauto.com/en/parts/üro+parts,0014300708S,power+brake+booster+seal,15959
URO Parts hi does it fit for 2010 MB W212 ? Thanks
be careful when you get the janky pvc tube if you buy this product, mine was cut poorly at a bad angle on both sides and could not properly use the tube, vary disappointed in myself for trying to use the tube they had giving me, now I need another seal.
Hi Luke, please email us at "sales at uro parts dot com" (remove spaces) with your info and purchase details and we'll get you taken care of, thanks!
I did replace the seal without removing the Booster/Servo from the car, see this video th-cam.com/video/saX-GG6s1Ck/w-d-xo.html
Excellent work and video Peppermint, thanks for posting! We're currently fine-tuning the shape of our seal driver tool for better performance, which will be a running change.
i need for audi tts 2009
zouir fares you would have to check the Ate part number on your deal to see if it matches. This is the only one we currently have available.
@@Uroparts ate 03.78720606.4
and brake boster 8j1614105 S
Do all ATE brake boosters employ the same size of plunger seal or are there different sized plunger seals for different ATE brake boosters?
There are different seals on different brake boosters
1:55 ????
Hi, the vacuum seal should be well-lubricated with the silicone grease that's provided in the URO Parts kit.