If you decide to do infinite baffle again, my suggestion would be too frame out the opening of your trunk. That way you can mount your baffle to it. You will get significantly better bass response, and that s p l number will come up significantly
This is how we did it back in the 90s! We'd also use Spray Foam to fill in the gaps and foam rubber around the Trunk Lid. Easiest, Cheapest way of putting Giant Subs in your car!! And as mentioned, you still get to use your Trunk!!
Last year I built an infinite baffle subwoofer setup in my old 2000 Toyota Corolla, with a twist. I used eight 6.5” 8 ohm woofers from PartsExpress that were $8 each. They were ran off of a D4S JP8. The baffle was completely sealed. I used aluminum duct tape to seal holes and a little spray foam here and there. It had useable output down to 30hz with output going down to 25hz, but it was dropping off really fast at that point. It sounded like a couple of cheap 10” subs in the trunk, but took up zero trunk space. I’ve got a video on my channel showing it.
Imagine the potential IF it was perfectly sealed! I'm impressed it did as well as it did, but also - that's a lot of cone area and power. This was a really cool experiment!
I dig it 👍🔊🔊 Only thing I would suggest to add would be some pool noodles around the edges to seal better. I've seen a couple of builds that use pool noodles for cheap way of sealing gaps. Thanks for the videos.
That is not infinite baffle. You have to completely seal off the front wave from the back wave, the side with the towels and the amplifier gap is not sealed, and then the deck lid is not sealed either. Best results would be to completely seal the baffle and run with the truck open for true ib, this is just free air. I do like the videos and style of testing you do. You always keep things interesting and fun to watch with videos like this!
I like the Battlefield theme, brings up memories. Nice production, from all the boxes that can be built, IB is the least $$$ in terms of material, but renders the trunk of a daily useless....and probably loss of 3 seats. In home audio IB sounds shy on bass, but cabin gain does wonders. Great video. P.S. As I have written before, get that SPL meter out of the foot well, bass-waves are long for a car, but stuff in the cabin reflects differently, so get it close to head high, not on the window, but close to head high. P.P.S. I almost mixed IB and OB, IB requirements for a wall of 2x18" in a trunk has maybe 30% of size required for baffle size, the trunk cutout is severely smaller than what an IB requires, bass is still longer than car, so you can use trunk as a box, making it OB, which 18" love as sealed boxes using the trunk volume. IB has a huge WxH measures baffle depending on speaker size. With all the losses you have a 4-6BP box with or higher order, depending how sealed the car is.
I run a single evl 18 and I love this! thought about doing one at the height of my backseat maybe a little lower, that way when the hatch is closed its 'sealed'
I had an 88 Mazda sedan with 2 10 and 2 8 pioneer free air subs on the rear deck powered by Profile amps 300 watts each. At the time it was very good and loud enough to be my work car for years.Love your video, looks like you need to seal the area on the sides as much as possible,a better center brace would help you too. Love that amp power,I have an sdr 18 in a sealed 3.0ft box in my home theater!
Thanks for the video. Getting my stuff gathered for my IB set up. Driver needs to have high q, high xmax, and low fs. Dayton UM 18 (.7, 22, and 19 respectively) is one that has all three and is waiting to go into mine. Planning for it to be the winter project.
@@Winglessflight97 the 24 is impressive. I looked at SI and Fi 18's, but couldn't justify the price. I sat in a demo vehicle for four of the Fi ib3 18's and they are impressive.
I'm running two 18" Peavey Black Widows IB with a front sub in the glove box area. 2005 Ford Focus. I would like to try a ported setup but IB just sounds to good. So fast and accurate. Esp. when it's t/A (time aligned) When I watched one of Matt Bogardt's videos (of Image dynamics); he said to build an IB baffle with five sides for strength. So essentialy an enclosure without the rear panel. I just built a super stout baffle and used 3/4" hardware to secure it directly to the car. There is little to no vibration. It's so musical it's really hard to go back to boxes. I'll admit I do miss my wall.
@BudgetBassHead I didn't know it was that good till I head some other ppl tell me what u just did lol. That's with a smart bass 5k. Hopefully maybe a big boss 8k will get me that 150! On music it bounces between a 140 and 146 or so.
You should invest in some nice sound quality speakers to complement the SQ of the infinite baffle sub setup, like Sony Mobile ES which is reasonably priced and does punch above its weight in sound quality. They also get louder than the stock speakers.
Had a EVL 15 ported and paired with a rp2k and it hit hard. Buried the meter at 140. Heavy as hell but it knocked ridiculous. Really wanna see the home theater SDRs.
Should make like half a box kinda like how the bottom of that is to hold it up but on top and sides too and even front it adds like a weird band pass to it and makes it push more pressure some how
@BudgetBassHead- What setup sounds the best, the SDR infinite Baffle, or the 2-12" passive radiator setup? I would have liked, to have seen, SPL scores, @ 20 Hz, 25 Hz, and you skipped over 35 Hz, with this EVL infinite Baffle setup. Great video❤️
Thanks for pointing that out. I would have to say that the SDR setup sounded better. The trade-off would be losing access to the trunk from the inside of the car, and back seat-down listening only.
@@BudgetBassHead - Also this Infinite Baffle setup had a very flat bandwidth, doing a 142 Db @ 30 Hz, and a 143.9 Db @ 50 Hz= very flat. I bet if you drive around playing/breaking these subwoofers in for a few weeks, then ✔️ the Db again, but @ 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, and 60 Hz, to show how flat the bandwidth is, would be great to see. I hope you consider this, plus would be great to get your opinion, on how they sound different after being broke in.
Yeah you definitely inspired me on the SDR infinite baffle still wish I had the SMD tool to know how many watts on bushing cuz I have no clue I think I might be at 600 and I know I can go way more put on never be able to afford that tool is there any other tool on the market besides a multimeter do you know exactly how many watts I'm putting out
this is the most powerful and well sounding setup you can do, unfortunately it's difficult to brace and seal the trunk well, and to get the best sound you have to open the trunk
You culd also drill through the top 2 plates and use a screw so the screw pull the bottom layer only to get a pressing force for gllueing the plates, then you just let the screw be in the plate. lol I was close , I listen to the sound for the peak power I guesd 28hz xD
I wonder how a pro audio sub would do? There was a nice 18 for $150 that i wanted to try a pair as an IB setup. Im sure the Ultimax would do well here. I still am not a fan of this unless its a diy buget build. But, give us your opinion on how it all sounds and how it all compares in practicality.
I'd say the EVL has too low of a Q to be good for infinite baffle. The SDR has a Qts of .69 which is pretty close to ideal. I'd also bet the SDRs will beat the EVLs in SQ (which is usually why you do IB in the first place) and probably match DB (especially down low) to the EVLs even with much less power. That is... once you get that setup properly sealed off. But yeah, not bad for just throwing a board in the trunk with some subs attached! I really want to make one of these setups in my 'stang although the PR setup I have (1-12"/2PR) is hard to beat for a small box.
Im curious if the IB set-up will cause u to have to use less power than the subs are raited for but as they are large the trunk space will likly meet need as an enclosure
Have you considered testing out a single 18" with an 18" passive radiator? I know youve done 1 12" with radiator and 2 12s with radiator though. Sub forward and radiator firing to the side?
@@osielh420 my trunk doesn't really rattle. I installed soundproofing to the trunk led the body panels and the flooring. My brake light in my rear window slaps the glass a lot though.
Unfortunately if the rear of the subwoofer is not absolutely, and completely sealed off from the front part of the subwoofer, I mean COMPLETELY SEALED NO HOLES. Its not infinite baffle. Because the wave that the subwoofer creates can not be able to make its way to the front of the subwoofer. It can if there is a hole.
Man i wish Chevy would have slapped the 5.7 and 6.2 in those Impala id definitely have one they seem so much bigger than the ss more interior space would definitely be a classic. They let dodge take over the v8 game and the Cadillac is to much with the 6.2 but they appear to be the Impala body
You should have made this IB setup inside the car not in the truck because of low excursion. Just because the woofer cone is 11 inches and some change do not mean much. These woofers needs to be in a L-slot ported sub box or the VC will burn up its on you LOL 5000 rms watts on this means game over for the VC p.s you need to work on you basic math skills because this hobby is all about BASIC MATH work
You really should unplug from the internet for awhile, clearly it will do you some good. Or, if you cant possibly do that, maybe try some educational videos on spelling and basic sentence construction (heres a hint: start at kindergarten). Go from there to some "basic math" courses and keep going (you can do it!), as you think this hobby is just that, and have no idea the sound physics, geometry, and multiple formulas, and calculation that are needed in a lot of actual car audio construction and planning. Oh, and as an aside, you are a crazy person. Just letting you know.
25 years ago we did 2 12” pioneer free air in a Beretta. The baffle was across the entire back seat rest. It hit real low with that big trunk.
You had me at Beretta LOL so 90s love it!!
I did this in the late 80s (1988) 2 Pyle Driver 15s on Punch amp in a 1980 Oldsmobile Delta 88 4dr sedan. Stupid big trunk.
I also loved the Berettas. They were definitely one of the coolest car back then.
If you decide to do infinite baffle again, my suggestion would be too frame out the opening of your trunk. That way you can mount your baffle to it. You will get significantly better bass response, and that s p l number will come up significantly
@@BudgetBassHeadmy mom had a grand am and as much as i hate pontiac, i would buy one (acoustically) today
This is how we did it back in the 90s! We'd also use Spray Foam to fill in the gaps and foam rubber around the Trunk Lid. Easiest, Cheapest way of putting Giant Subs in your car!! And as mentioned, you still get to use your Trunk!!
Last year I built an infinite baffle subwoofer setup in my old 2000 Toyota Corolla, with a twist. I used eight 6.5” 8 ohm woofers from PartsExpress that were $8 each. They were ran off of a D4S JP8. The baffle was completely sealed. I used aluminum duct tape to seal holes and a little spray foam here and there.
It had useable output down to 30hz with output going down to 25hz, but it was dropping off really fast at that point. It sounded like a couple of cheap 10” subs in the trunk, but took up zero trunk space. I’ve got a video on my channel showing it.
Imagine the potential IF it was perfectly sealed! I'm impressed it did as well as it did, but also - that's a lot of cone area and power. This was a really cool experiment!
I'm glad you thought it was cool!
I dig it 👍🔊🔊
Only thing I would suggest to add would be some pool noodles around the edges to seal better. I've seen a couple of builds that use pool noodles for cheap way of sealing gaps.
Thanks for the videos.
Thanks for the tips!
That is not infinite baffle. You have to completely seal off the front wave from the back wave, the side with the towels and the amplifier gap is not sealed, and then the deck lid is not sealed either. Best results would be to completely seal the baffle and run with the truck open for true ib, this is just free air. I do like the videos and style of testing you do. You always keep things interesting and fun to watch with videos like this!
This is free air not IB
This is not free air. It's a leaky infinite baffle
Yup, not an IB setup, losing a lot of performance from that opening on the side
he knows that. He stated that in the video. told us its not a finnished product up front.
@@jacobkelly7502 his last trunk setup as well he called a IB which was finished for his 18” skar sub
I like the Battlefield theme, brings up memories. Nice production, from all the boxes that can be built, IB is the least $$$ in terms of material, but renders the trunk of a daily useless....and probably loss of 3 seats. In home audio IB sounds shy on bass, but cabin gain does wonders. Great video.
P.S. As I have written before, get that SPL meter out of the foot well, bass-waves are long for a car, but stuff in the cabin reflects differently, so get it close to head high, not on the window, but close to head high.
P.P.S. I almost mixed IB and OB, IB requirements for a wall of 2x18" in a trunk has maybe 30% of size required for baffle size, the trunk cutout is severely smaller than what an IB requires, bass is still longer than car, so you can use trunk as a box, making it OB, which 18" love as sealed boxes using the trunk volume. IB has a huge WxH measures baffle depending on speaker size. With all the losses you have a 4-6BP box with or higher order, depending how sealed the car is.
Good suggestion thanks for sharing.
Another good one!! I like how you give alot of clear details on everything you're using
Thanks I appreciate that 💯
Boy oh boy I remember this from back in the days..This brings back some memories!!👊😉
🔊 The 1990s ruled! 🔊 💯
@BudgetBassHead yessir the 90s was the sht! And I still have 4 12" old school pioneer impp ts-w304f free air subwoofers
The sdr's are probably higher 'q' drivers than the evl's are. You need kinda higher 'q drivers for free air subs
I run a single evl 18 and I love this! thought about doing one at the height of my backseat maybe a little lower, that way when the hatch is closed its 'sealed'
I had an 88 Mazda sedan with 2 10 and 2 8 pioneer free air subs on the rear deck powered by Profile amps 300 watts each. At the time it was very good and loud enough to be my work car for years.Love your video, looks like you need to seal the area on the sides as much as possible,a better center brace would help you too. Love that amp power,I have an sdr 18 in a sealed 3.0ft box in my home theater!
Thanks for the video. Getting my stuff gathered for my IB set up. Driver needs to have high q, high xmax, and low fs. Dayton UM 18 (.7, 22, and 19 respectively) is one that has all three and is waiting to go into mine. Planning for it to be the winter project.
I've got an Fi audio ib315 i have yet to install but I'm salivating over the Stereo Integrity IB-24.. 🤤
@@Winglessflight97 the 24 is impressive. I looked at SI and Fi 18's, but couldn't justify the price. I sat in a demo vehicle for four of the Fi ib3 18's and they are impressive.
Wow I am so stoked to see this - we have asked, and you delivered!!!
💯👍
I’m elated to hear Xavy Rusan in IB. Great project.
Good to hear!
Youre funny my dude lol... the Fs of the driver is going to be your peak in IB
Thanks for everything you do , it means more than you’ll ever know… I like that song you played
Thanks for watching. That song comes from Epidemic Sound
Did you also seal and audiomat the trunk from inside? Or does it rattle like a ghetto slab?
Pretty good spl results for freeair!
You should try the Stereo Integrity infinite baffle 18s
Thank you soooo much for your opinions! for real.
I'm glad you liked it!
Ive done this many o time in my life. Bass was smooth, but was never satisfied. Thats just me tho. Great tutorial as usual! Thx
I'm running two 18" Peavey Black Widows IB with a front sub in the glove box area. 2005 Ford Focus. I would like to try a ported setup but IB just sounds to good. So fast and accurate. Esp. when it's t/A (time aligned) When I watched one of Matt Bogardt's videos (of Image dynamics); he said to build an IB baffle with five sides for strength. So essentialy an enclosure without the rear panel. I just built a super stout baffle and used 3/4" hardware to secure it directly to the car. There is little to no vibration. It's so musical it's really hard to go back to boxes. I'll admit I do miss my wall.
That sounds very interesting.
Sounds hella dope brother!
My peak is 33hz in my car lol. It's lovely! Does a 147.8 at 33hz, for now...
Wow. That sounds amazing. Its not easy to get that loud below 35Hz.
@BudgetBassHead I didn't know it was that good till I head some other ppl tell me what u just did lol. That's with a smart bass 5k. Hopefully maybe a big boss 8k will get me that 150! On music it bounces between a 140 and 146 or so.
IB?
You should invest in some nice sound quality speakers to complement the SQ of the infinite baffle sub setup, like Sony Mobile ES which is reasonably priced and does punch above its weight in sound quality. They also get louder than the stock speakers.
Had a EVL 15 ported and paired with a rp2k and it hit hard. Buried the meter at 140.
Heavy as hell but it knocked ridiculous.
Really wanna see the home theater SDRs.
Maybe I'll cover it in a future video
@@BudgetBassHead thanks bro. I'm lookin forward to it
Subs with a lower fs and ebp are king for ib.
Thanks for the tip
Give the One Audio IB3's a go in that setup!
I'll look into it
Should make like half a box kinda like how the bottom of that is to hold it up but on top and sides too and even front it adds like a weird band pass to it and makes it push more pressure some how
my guy taking 90's quad bass to the next level!
ok so what you running for an amp?
If you have any scrap 2x4's you can clamp the mdf in between a couple and you can get away with less clamps also.
Good suggestions
Would it be better to seal off your baffle I can see the amp in your trunk from the inside vehicle ?
@BudgetBassHead- What setup sounds the best, the SDR infinite Baffle, or the 2-12" passive radiator setup? I would have liked, to have seen, SPL scores, @ 20 Hz, 25 Hz, and you skipped over 35 Hz, with this EVL infinite Baffle setup. Great video❤️
Thanks for pointing that out. I would have to say that the SDR setup sounded better. The trade-off would be losing access to the trunk from the inside of the car, and back seat-down listening only.
@@BudgetBassHead - Also this Infinite Baffle setup had a very flat bandwidth, doing a 142 Db @ 30 Hz, and a 143.9 Db @ 50 Hz= very flat. I bet if you drive around playing/breaking these subwoofers in for a few weeks, then ✔️ the Db again, but @ 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, and 60 Hz, to show how flat the bandwidth is, would be great to see. I hope you consider this, plus would be great to get your opinion, on how they sound different after being broke in.
You should do a Stereo Integrity SQL in the IB setup. Or a Skat VXF.
Seems pretty sweet! With the infinite baffle, would it get louder if you opened the trunk?
I never tried that. I figured they would unload more. The trunk builds pressure and keeps the cones in check.
Yeah you definitely inspired me on the SDR infinite baffle still wish I had the SMD tool to know how many watts on bushing cuz I have no clue I think I might be at 600 and I know I can go way more put on never be able to afford that tool is there any other tool on the market besides a multimeter do you know exactly how many watts I'm putting out
Im so glad you did this thank you.
Where do you have your battery grounded ?
Lets see the hometheater setup👌
this is the most powerful and well sounding setup you can do, unfortunately it's difficult to brace and seal the trunk well, and to get the best sound you have to open the trunk
I thought this was a reupload. :) Maybe change the title to "Round 2"
I did too!!!
Wow. I'll look into. Thanks for letting me know that!
I need to try an 18 in my setup. Just for fun!!
yo i got some 2 10s in my bedroom window as an infinite baffel, should i post it working?
Getting ready to do infinite baffle with 2 15 inch resilient sounds golds. I already graphed it and it should do well. I will let you know how it goes
@@ronaldwhitt3691 keep us posted 👍
@BudgetBassHead got them in and omg they are breaking things...
@@ronaldwhitt3691 Okay... now you have to give us a video!
I will always have a hatchback
I run 800-1000w
Could ya do a Shallow enclosure, please 🔊
You culd also drill through the top 2 plates and use a screw so the screw pull the bottom layer only to get a pressing force for gllueing the plates, then you just let the screw be in the plate.
lol I was close , I listen to the sound for the peak power I guesd 28hz xD
IB SUBS ARE CLEAN I HAVE 3 AE IB15 IN TRUE IB . ABOUT 900 CLEAN RMS WATTS IS ALL I NEED . LOVE IT'S NATURAL OUTPUT X-OVER AT 44 HZ .GREAT VIDEO.
Thanks for sharing.
Man I had 4 of those acoustic elegance subs in 2015 they only lasted a month the quality wasn't that great
I switched to custom psi audio ib subs and man they are the truth!
I wonder how a pro audio sub would do? There was a nice 18 for $150 that i wanted to try a pair as an IB setup. Im sure the Ultimax would do well here. I still am not a fan of this unless its a diy buget build. But, give us your opinion on how it all sounds and how it all compares in practicality.
I'd say the EVL has too low of a Q to be good for infinite baffle. The SDR has a Qts of .69 which is pretty close to ideal. I'd also bet the SDRs will beat the EVLs in SQ (which is usually why you do IB in the first place) and probably match DB (especially down low) to the EVLs even with much less power. That is... once you get that setup properly sealed off. But yeah, not bad for just throwing a board in the trunk with some subs attached! I really want to make one of these setups in my 'stang although the PR setup I have (1-12"/2PR) is hard to beat for a small box.
Should use a pool noodle around the baffle to help seal from trunk but cool video
I would love to see the same build but with two dayton max X 15’s the ts parameters would do much better in a Ib setup than the svr
Im curious if the IB set-up will cause u to have to use less power than the subs are raited for but as they are large the trunk space will likly meet need as an enclosure
Depends on the recommend volume of subwoofers.
YOU SHOULD TRY THE SVR MODELS THEY ARE LIKE IN THE MIDDLE OF SDR- EVL
Would like to see the zvx v2s
Can you do the Sdr18s in a 2015 Kia optima
Whats happening fam. I got an Impala similar to yours. What do you need to add an amp to the factory bose system?
I got a video coming on this very subject. Easy Method: AmpPro. Hard Method: locate factory amplifier from trunk.
Have you considered testing out a single 18" with an 18" passive radiator? I know youve done 1 12" with radiator and 2 12s with radiator though. Sub forward and radiator firing to the side?
I would also like to see a 18 and a passive radiator.
I may have to try that. Thanks for the suggestions
try the sdrs in the new baffle you made for the evl and seal it!
I think I'll do that
I have a question how bad does your trunk rattle?
@@osielh420 my trunk doesn't really rattle. I installed soundproofing to the trunk led the body panels and the flooring. My brake light in my rear window slaps the glass a lot though.
30hz and it sounds balanced though the whole frequency range. Nice 🤔
It sounds really good in person
The baffle has to have a tight fit, if air is leaking in sides or corners. You will get less punch . Trunk is supposed to be the BOX😮
True
Not sure if it’s just the camera but it looks like the sub on the right is moving more.
Its called shutter-roll
Thinner coil more sensitivity in sdr evl thicker coil less sensitivity perhaps
Man if you sealed it up damn that thing would be pretty good.
18:45 seal that hole and that might change
Do a video where the slot port on your box is the amp. lol
What’s the song name ?
SDR has lower Fs and softer suspension, which is probably why they sound better on music. I hate the EVL.
Nice
Peak freq will change with pressure changes.
Unfortunately if the rear of the subwoofer is not absolutely, and completely sealed off from the front part of the subwoofer, I mean COMPLETELY SEALED NO HOLES. Its not infinite baffle. Because the wave that the subwoofer creates can not be able to make its way to the front of the subwoofer. It can if there is a hole.
You sealed the sdr better that’s why your noticing a difference your getting a bit of cancelation.
You're probably right
Man i wish Chevy would have slapped the 5.7 and 6.2 in those Impala id definitely have one they seem so much bigger than the ss more interior space would definitely be a classic. They let dodge take over the v8 game and the Cadillac is to much with the 6.2 but they appear to be the Impala body
Dude we did a 148 with 4 8s ported tuned to 28hz with only 1k power..come on guys.
I wanna do a infinite baffle
Go for it and let us know how it turn out 👍
Peaks at 30hz because of Fs
😮
🤖SQL is the way
Your blocking the sound you should set there
It isnt a infinite baffle you arent sealed
Two 8s in Ashland or ported box would sound better than that setup.
sub look out of phase
Its called 'shutter-roll'. The subs are fine.
You should have made this IB setup inside the car not in the truck because of low excursion. Just because the woofer cone is 11 inches and some change do not mean much. These woofers needs to be in a L-slot ported sub box or the VC will burn up its on you LOL 5000 rms watts on this means game over for the VC p.s you need to work on you basic math skills because this hobby is all about BASIC MATH work
Put up your audio test videos......DIDN'T THINK SO!!! 🖕
@grandam 🤭
This guy lol
@@Luminous.Dynamicsby looking at his channel he seems to be worried more about the world ending soon (end times!) 🤣
You really should unplug from the internet for awhile, clearly it will do you some good. Or, if you cant possibly do that, maybe try some educational videos on spelling and basic sentence construction (heres a hint: start at kindergarten). Go from there to some "basic math" courses and keep going (you can do it!), as you think this hobby is just that, and have no idea the sound physics, geometry, and multiple formulas, and calculation that are needed in a lot of actual car audio construction and planning.
Oh, and as an aside, you are a crazy person. Just letting you know.