PoR 15 is a great product. When I was kid in 1985 I had a rusty F250 Highboy, the frame behind cab was scaley and pitted badly. I wire brushed it real good, applied Rustoleum Red Oxide primer and then Rustoleum Black paint. The frame never rusted or peeled after 30+ years, my brother bought the truck and kept it till a couple years ago.
That too is certainly an option, especially in the South. Here in the NE we really need our frames to have extra protection. Of course if the budget is really tight, something is better than nothing. I actually did my first Dentside frame in 1998 with rusty metal primer and black spray paint after stripping it, and that frame made it all the way until I scrapped it in 2020. Really, in my experience anything besides KBS is probably a good enough, just depends on what you want.
I did an 02 chev with POR before selling it, it is a bit glossy but seems to dull to a more normal satin finish after a while, and the process was easy and enjoyable. I will probably use it on my 78 F26. The frame is moderately pitted. Would you use a sanding disc to improve pitted areas?
Great question, I will be posting another video soon on that process, but in short yes you can use a grinding wheel the clean and then sand the metal to reduce pits. The worse part of the frame im doing i did some light grinding and then heavy sanding in one area to clean it up.
Great question, I did not in this instance, but it does state right on the can that any UV exposed areas do require it. In my opinion, I am only looking to prevent future rust, so that is not a concern for me personally. Thanks for the positive feedback!
I’ve used POR 15 on my trailers for years. It’s a great product. Do you think it’s as durable as powder coating? Way cheaper to use the POR 15. It would be nice if someone would compare the powder coating to POR 15. Good video, Thanks.
So I was going to mention that in this video, and then decided not to, but here is my opinion. Powder coating a frame will give an even better finish than POR-15, assuming it is done right, but there are two major drawbacks. First, crazy expensive, especially for the large frames that I do on full size trucks. Second, if you decide to change something down the road, you will need to ruin drill/cut into the powder coating, and then the area around it will start to flake, peel, and rust. If you are 100% sure the truck is done as is, and its going to not get chipped by heavy use such as on a farm, and your willing to spend the money, yes, powder coating is better. My Trans Am is powder coated, and the finish is superior, but for a truck I prefer something I can touch up and change as needed. Hope this helps.
Nice video, but do you drive the GMC in the salt and as a daily? The other trucks look like they don't have any dirt or debris from driving. POR 15 is good stuff
The GMC has seen heavy driving, and yes the other trucks are toys so not so much. Regardless, I had issues with the KBS coating even during the application process. In fact, the green truck I had originally done the axles in KBS, and they peeled almost immediately in areas that didn't have pitting type rust and had to redo do them in POR15. That is when I made the change to POR15 permanently.
I really do like the Summit paint and use it for areas where I want a strong product that doesn't have the thickness of POR or Powdercoat and I want full coverage even on surfaces where they meet on the face.
A true equal test is on sandblast parent steel . ----- Another issue is porous frame paint eg remove the paint and u find surface rust . Now if u paint over the existing poor quality paint it will always lift due to the previous problem . My Ford is like this the factory paint is really garbage . -----new chassis light surface rust . Chassis was wire wheeled and hand sanded with 220 grit . POR 15 LIFTED PAINT
Old vehicles were made with better steel. Most modern vehicles and steels have been recycled so many times now the metal is is full of impurities and rusts immediately.
I wonder if an etching primer wouldve helped with adhesion to the galvanized steel with the summit paint.
Yea thats a good point, but it did take like 4 years for it to peel. Not to mention it was baking in the sun and wet most of that time
PoR 15 is a great product. When I was kid in 1985 I had a rusty F250 Highboy, the frame behind cab was scaley and pitted badly. I wire brushed it real good, applied Rustoleum Red Oxide primer and then Rustoleum Black paint. The frame never rusted or peeled after 30+ years, my brother bought the truck and kept it till a couple years ago.
That too is certainly an option, especially in the South. Here in the NE we really need our frames to have extra protection. Of course if the budget is really tight, something is better than nothing. I actually did my first Dentside frame in 1998 with rusty metal primer and black spray paint after stripping it, and that frame made it all the way until I scrapped it in 2020. Really, in my experience anything besides KBS is probably a good enough, just depends on what you want.
I’m sure they have made it worse since then To save money
Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Platinum is where it's at for me.
I appreciate this a lot. I was considering a couple of these products. This gives me information to make a wise decision.
Glad to hear it, the only reason I made this video so im happy it helps!
I did an 02 chev with POR before selling it, it is a bit glossy but seems to dull to a more normal satin finish after a while, and the process was easy and enjoyable. I will probably use it on my 78 F26. The frame is moderately pitted. Would you use a sanding disc to improve pitted areas?
Great question, I will be posting another video soon on that process, but in short yes you can use a grinding wheel the clean and then sand the metal to reduce pits. The worse part of the frame im doing i did some light grinding and then heavy sanding in one area to clean it up.
Did you use a topcoat on the POR for UV protection? Or just the POR15? Looks great!
Great question, I did not in this instance, but it does state right on the can that any UV exposed areas do require it. In my opinion, I am only looking to prevent future rust, so that is not a concern for me personally. Thanks for the positive feedback!
How many cans of summit to cover the frame twice with the summit spray cans ?
I’ve used POR 15 on my trailers for years. It’s a great product. Do you think it’s as durable as powder coating? Way cheaper to use the POR 15. It would be nice if someone would compare the powder coating to POR 15.
Good video, Thanks.
So I was going to mention that in this video, and then decided not to, but here is my opinion. Powder coating a frame will give an even better finish than POR-15, assuming it is done right, but there are two major drawbacks. First, crazy expensive, especially for the large frames that I do on full size trucks. Second, if you decide to change something down the road, you will need to ruin drill/cut into the powder coating, and then the area around it will start to flake, peel, and rust. If you are 100% sure the truck is done as is, and its going to not get chipped by heavy use such as on a farm, and your willing to spend the money, yes, powder coating is better. My Trans Am is powder coated, and the finish is superior, but for a truck I prefer something I can touch up and change as needed. Hope this helps.
Nice video, but do you drive the GMC in the salt and as a daily?
The other trucks look like they don't have any dirt or debris from driving.
POR 15 is good stuff
The GMC has seen heavy driving, and yes the other trucks are toys so not so much. Regardless, I had issues with the KBS coating even during the application process. In fact, the green truck I had originally done the axles in KBS, and they peeled almost immediately in areas that didn't have pitting type rust and had to redo do them in POR15. That is when I made the change to POR15 permanently.
Summit is also available in quarts and gallons.
I really do like the Summit paint and use it for areas where I want a strong product that doesn't have the thickness of POR or Powdercoat and I want full coverage even on surfaces where they meet on the face.
Where did you get your sway bar end links
Skyjacker sells extended ones that work really well
@@DentsideDepot Thank you
Thanks for the review
Absolutely! I hope it helped. -Aaron
Best Under Coating is MasterCoat Ag 111
Yeah but, did you drive all of them in the sand and salt? The 2500 probably saw a lot more road time.
A true equal test is on sandblast parent steel .
----- Another issue is porous frame paint eg remove the paint and u find surface rust . Now if u paint over the existing poor quality paint it will always lift due to the previous problem .
My Ford is like this the factory paint is really garbage .
-----new chassis light surface rust . Chassis was wire wheeled and hand sanded with 220 grit . POR 15 LIFTED PAINT
I can’t say I used POR15 but I tried Chassis saver,and was told it was identical to POR-15 & it came off in sheets
Old vehicles were made with better steel. Most modern vehicles and steels have been recycled so many times now the metal is is full of impurities and rusts immediately.
😎🏴☠️