As mentioned below.... great job of explaining pros and cons of a chassis prep. I'm an old guy with a new old truck. it's been living in a barn and pushing snow on a farm. To prevent further rusting ( no garage) I'm going to work on all the exposed undercarriage I can reach without disassembly. Your details about tools you used and your experience will be REALLY HELPFUL! Thanks!
Im going to do the same thing to my square body k30 3+3 dually. This video is one of the best videos i found explaining everything on TH-cam. Thanks. 😀
This is by far one of the best frame resto videos on YT. I can second the amount of hours, materials, BLOOD and sweat. WEAR A MASK and he is not kidding about taking 40 hours..great video
Wish I could do off the frame restoration. You did a great job on that one. I'll be raising the truck and on my back most of the truck. So some small spots will just get sprayed 3x. With just surface rust Rust-Oleum has a one and done application.
That frame was in very good shape. I had some serious scale rust and deep pitting on my 83 F100 frame . I removed just about everything from the frame and had it sand blasted. Then painted it with Eastwood Platinum rust encapsulator (the silver one) and then Raptor bedliner. Had to weld some patches on it from the rear of the cab back. But all good now . The bolted everything back on with grade 8 bolts nut washers and lock washers from Fastenall.
don’t worry about bolting crossmembers or spring brackets, hell most large trucks peter bilt mac etc.. have bolted cross members and brackets from the factory. when i restored my 57 f600 i completely separated all the cross members and used grade 5 bolts and not 8, hours of forums and talking with others and grade 8 can be too hard and be too brittle. i use my 57 almost daily with 5-6 tons everytime still don’t have a single loose bolt and that’s been for the last 6 years, the bolt is already stronger than the rivet that rivet is not even a grade 5 strength
I have seen you tube videos from India I think , that showed them placing hot robots. They heat rivit blank to cherry red, put in hole with blocking in frame and brace to ground them setting a concave blank on a long bar over hot rivet Then someone pounded on it with a heavy sledgehammer.
This is a really great video, thanks!!! I’m about to tackle the frame on a 2005 sequoia I just bought. Lots of surface rust. Areas where the existing coating is chipped or flaked off. It will be a bit harder to get to being still on the vehicle and working underneath but I’ll do my best. I’m planning on using the Eastwood frame spray for the inside. For th exterior I’m wondering whether to go with POR 15 or the Eastwood rust encapsulator. I’m also wondering whether to get an electric angle grinder or an air grinder. I like the idea that an air grinder has a lever so it won’t stay on if let go. I kind of wish I could find a place outside with power where I could go to town.
Why don't you like replacing rivets with bolts? Are they weaker? I was planning on removing all my riveted in crossmembers to remove rust and paint better. Thanks for the video
Rivets fully fill the hole to prevent movement. Bolts require clearance to go in, and therefore rely on clamping force. Bolts are likely fine (that's what I'm using) but if I had a way to hot rivet, I would have gone back that way
Dear Sir, I am restoring the frame of my old 1946 Ford passenger bus, and I have a doubt: When a rivet is removed, replace it with a bolt with a Grower washer and nut and once placed and adjusted, crush the end of the bolt against the nut with a hammer ( like a rivet). What do you think about it? Thank You !
Smashing the bolt head won't do anything. Bolts clamp the pieces together. A rivet fills in the entire hole as it expands, leaving zero clearance. So unless you can cause the bolt shaft to expand like a rivet, it won't change (and might even decrease) the holding force
The challenge of blasting or dipping is that you have to have a way of getting the frame to those places. In hindsight it would have been less work to bolt and axle and tongue to the frame and tow it somewhere, though the chicken/egg problem is that I need a truck to pull it and this frame is my truck.
I was trying to do it all in my garage, so that wasn't really an option, though if I figured out a way to move it, that certainly would have been easier
It strikes me that the mess created outdoors is discounted as to need to control or dispose of. It is just left to go into the surrounding grass? Not a good long term solution, it seems to me. Would I want my grand children playing in that dirt? Kind of like how the plastics industry pays nothing for disposal of the products is creates. Something to consider, anyhow. I enjoy your vids!
Excellent Job Sir !!! You Certainly Should Be A SHOP TEACHER !!!!!!!!!!!
As mentioned below.... great job of explaining pros and cons of a chassis prep. I'm an old guy with a new old truck. it's been living in a barn and pushing snow on a farm. To prevent further rusting ( no garage) I'm going to work on all the exposed undercarriage I can reach without disassembly. Your details about tools you used and your experience will be REALLY HELPFUL! Thanks!
Im going to do the same thing to my square body k30 3+3 dually. This video is one of the best videos i found explaining everything on TH-cam.
Thanks. 😀
Great video, I have a 99 two door Tahoe I’ve had since 1999 and would wto do this to my frame. I’m glad I found this channel.
This is by far one of the best frame resto videos on YT. I can second the amount of hours, materials, BLOOD and sweat. WEAR A MASK and he is not kidding about taking 40 hours..great video
You are becoming my favorite you tuber. Your explanation of tools, products and how to is great. Keep up the great work.
SO glad I ran into this video as I'll be doing the same with a '78 Power Wagon. Great video!
Wish I could do off the frame restoration. You did a great job on that one. I'll be raising the truck and on my back most of the truck. So some small spots will just get sprayed 3x. With just surface rust Rust-Oleum has a one and done application.
I that the Rust Reformer?
TH-cam only gave us one thumb for a thumbs up. That is far too few. This is an excellent demonstration and evaluation.
I really appreciate this video, thank you bud.
Great info.
If I ever get back to my project, this will help me out.
No matter how you look at it, it all boils down to tedious, patient work. Well done.
Excellent video
Thanks for for a very detailed video, specifically thanks for safety tips!!!!
Job well done. Thanks for sharing.
Very complete guide, super helpful..thanks for the upload..:)
That frame was in very good shape. I had some serious scale rust and deep pitting on my 83 F100 frame . I removed just about everything from the frame and had it sand blasted. Then painted it with Eastwood Platinum rust encapsulator (the silver one) and then Raptor bedliner. Had to weld some patches on it from the rear of the cab back. But all good now . The bolted everything back on with grade 8 bolts nut washers and lock washers from Fastenall.
Thanks for the video.✅
don’t worry about bolting crossmembers or spring brackets, hell most large trucks peter bilt mac etc.. have bolted cross members and brackets from the factory. when i restored my 57 f600 i completely separated all the cross members and used grade 5 bolts and not 8, hours of forums and talking with others and grade 8 can be too hard and be too brittle. i use my 57 almost daily with 5-6 tons everytime still don’t have a single loose bolt and that’s been for the last 6 years, the bolt is already stronger than the rivet that rivet is not even a grade 5 strength
Thanks for the feedback
I was wondering about bolt hardness and flexibility.
I have seen you tube videos from India I think , that showed them placing hot robots. They heat rivit blank to cherry red, put in hole with blocking in frame and brace to ground them setting a concave blank on a long bar over hot rivet
Then someone pounded on it with a heavy sledgehammer.
This is a really great video, thanks!!!
I’m about to tackle the frame on a 2005 sequoia I just bought. Lots of surface rust. Areas where the existing coating is chipped or flaked off. It will be a bit harder to get to being still on the vehicle and working underneath but I’ll do my best.
I’m planning on using the Eastwood frame spray for the inside.
For th exterior I’m wondering whether to go with POR 15 or the Eastwood rust encapsulator.
I’m also wondering whether to get an electric angle grinder or an air grinder. I like the idea that an air grinder has a lever so it won’t stay on if let go.
I kind of wish I could find a place outside with power where I could go to town.
Most newer grinders, at least not the super cheap ones, have paddle switches so they shut off if it leaves your hand
Why don't you like replacing rivets with bolts? Are they weaker? I was planning on removing all my riveted in crossmembers to remove rust and paint better. Thanks for the video
Rivets fully fill the hole to prevent movement. Bolts require clearance to go in, and therefore rely on clamping force. Bolts are likely fine (that's what I'm using) but if I had a way to hot rivet, I would have gone back that way
Dear Sir, I am restoring the frame of my old 1946 Ford passenger bus, and I have a doubt: When a rivet is removed, replace it with a bolt with a Grower washer and nut and once placed and adjusted, crush the end of the bolt against the nut with a hammer ( like a rivet). What do you think about it? Thank You !
Smashing the bolt head won't do anything. Bolts clamp the pieces together. A rivet fills in the entire hole as it expands, leaving zero clearance. So unless you can cause the bolt shaft to expand like a rivet, it won't change (and might even decrease) the holding force
Thank you very much for your assistance, best regards !!!
Hey since this has been about a year do you still have this project? Has the rust returned or flaked the coating? Can we get an update?
Still have it, yes. Probably the last 40 videos I published are on this. No rust has returned, but it's not been out in the weather yet either.
If its not a hardened frame why not bolt and weld the rivited parts back together?
Blasting or chemical dipping is the way to go. If your going to do it the hard way use stiff wire wheels after you use a quality paint stripper.
The challenge of blasting or dipping is that you have to have a way of getting the frame to those places. In hindsight it would have been less work to bolt and axle and tongue to the frame and tow it somewhere, though the chicken/egg problem is that I need a truck to pull it and this frame is my truck.
Can you tell me how much you paid for the Eastwood products please
Rust Encapsulator Plus is about $45 per quart. Chassis Black is a little more - something like $50 per quart.
@@YoshimoshiGarage thank you. By the way your videos are a step above the rest of them I am loving them ,keep um coming .
Cut rivets bolt replace with grade 8
Weld up the parts that were loose from the rivits that were not holding tight anymore.
Flap disc's work great for about 5-10 minutes then they are worthless.
Why not sandblasting???
I didn't have any way to take it to the sandblaster. In hindsight I should have found a way.
Try acid dip
I was trying to do it all in my garage, so that wasn't really an option, though if I figured out a way to move it, that certainly would have been easier
I think I would have rented a sandblast or even a soda blasting rig. You sure put in a lot of manual work 👍
If I ever do another I'll either get one, or more likely just take it somewhere.
It strikes me that the mess created outdoors is discounted as to need to control or dispose of. It is just left to go into the surrounding grass? Not a good long term solution, it seems to me. Would I want my grand children playing in that dirt? Kind of like how the plastics industry pays nothing for disposal of the products is creates. Something to consider, anyhow. I enjoy your vids!
A fair consideration, but it was mostly dirt and rust.
And rust came from the dirt. 😁
Excellent video
Glad you liked it