The best solution is what the military has been doing since ww1. RP-342! It's a wx base cosmoline and can be found on amazon. It's superior to paint in every way for preventing rust and is so effective it was designed to be use on bare steel. That's why you can pop open a crate of ww2 rifles and find zero rust. Frame paint is good bt a pinhole is all I takes to negate its protections and RP-342 WILLMSELF SEAL and prevents water and salts from getting under it even if a spot is missed.
@@simd510 I have no experience with the products containing cosmoline. Though I have never seen or heard a bad story about it. So, you have products containing cosmoline , there's fluid film, woolwax and pb blaster. They each will protect equally well. They each really do a great job. Some people complain about the smell of fluid film but it is extremely easy to apply. Woolwax is about the most difficult to apply and should be lightly warmed up to apply. Then there's pb blaster. Almost as easy to apply as fluid film and doesn't smell. It's pretty easy to spray.
Fluid film or oil based undercoatings are great for corrosion protection. In this case you should try Chassis Saver by magnet paints, its awesome if the chassis is prepped properly. Rubber undercoating traps moisture
Ive been trying to figure out the best way to prevent further rust and have landed on Fluid film... but seeing this chassis saver makes me wonder... which would you recommend for someone in Virginia w/an 04 and some fairly heavy surface rust?
Zinc. nickel . chrome.anodize. when I worked at the electro plating company I figured out nothing beats it's nothing . We would electro plate everything then paint it. Bike's quads Jeep's Harley's you name it.
Fluid film is the best option even the hard reach spots that still have rubbized undercoating will soften up after a few weeks when fluod film is sprayed over those areas. After a month in warm temps the rubber mixed with fluid film will scape off easy
That needle scaler is tiny compared to the ones we use in the navy. When you get a big boy it’s really satisfying busting up some rust. We also call them needle guns in the navy.
Same thing here. I'm in the merchant navy and we use much bigger, same nickname. It's basically "rust busting" even how they used to do it (by hand) back in the day on tallships. Good video though! I've got a late 99 7.3 and was already planning to do something like this in the summer. I would probably have used the cheap oil or canned rubber shit though, thanks for the tip
YES YES YES ! An old school ryan video , with just him doing his thing , without all the nonsense going on in the back ground ,, loved this video this is why we all come to watch these videos ,,, great video Ryan!
Sounds like is party time… Just kidding bro. I don’t know your situation (but usually everything works out for the best). Stay strong (hint: freedom is amazing )… 😂😂😖
Eastwood is good stuff. Another good rust converter is Ospho. Another good frame paint is Chassis Saver by Monstaliner. Definitely don't undercoat with tar or rubber or spray paint. Those seal in the rust and the frame rots from the inside out. Surface Shield is a non-hardening lanolin based spray coating that prevents rust. Spray inside and outside the box frame. I spray everything under the vehicle except brake rotors and exhaust systems. It's also great to spray inside doors and rocker panels but make sure the door weep holes remain open. Touch up next year and every other year after that. Don't pressure wash under the truck. Spring rains will wash away the salt deposits on the outside of the Surface Shield that never make it to the frame. Surface Shield is also the best anti-corrosion treatment I've found for battery terminals.
just went through 3 cases of Woolwax on a 2007 civic, a 2018 camry, and a 2005 highlander, and still gonna order more....I'm getting every damn nook, cranny, and cavity so help me God. F-ing rust!
@@johnathanpratt944 negative... it can crack and allow moisture under and you'll never know. I've read plenty of people frustrated they followed all the prep and then it didn't adhere. Stay with goo that creeps and cuts off oxygen...and apply annually early Fall when it is still warm out so the material flows out the spray can and won't clog up.
There's a guy here on YT that did a comparison of undercoat, and rust converters that didn't think much of Eastwood and suggested another product that had an acid etch to it that actually converted the rust. The site is Repair Geek and I thought he did a good job with his testing. Here in New England , it's a bear to keep things rust-free. My F350 7.3 got eaten alive by salt.
If needle scaler quits working you’ve rounded over your needles. I took mine out and put a square corner back on them with a flap wheel and it was like new again
Rubberized undercoat is very good BUT it’s only effective when there is absolutely no moisture, dirt, rust etc on the surface. I would only put it on a brand new cars or a very, very well prepped surfaces like e.g during/after a restoration. But for my taste I would always choose a regular chassis paint and then wax or oil coat the undercarriage. Pressure wash it once after the winter and coat it again. I prefer having the surface smooth so the dirt have harder time sticking to the surface and it’s easier to clean then the rough texture of the rubberised undercoat paint.
I used a rattle can of rubberized paintable undercoating on a utility trailed frame. It became a rust magnet and it never saw rain. Had to scrape it all off and start over.
I always used farm and implement paint, usually rustoleum cut 50/50. Get the scale off, and give it time to seep in, suggest at least 74F at night with low humidity ( with fans running ), if not using heaters lol. Always rustoleum rust reformer nowadays first now here and there, that frame will need a ton of it (not a fan of water based, metal loves oil) lol. And invest of a set of PPG nozzles. Like 60 bux. It does a good job, check rust every month or 2 and touch up. In a year or so wont see any usually. Back in the day i use used motor oil, trans fluid, and kerosene with a dash of tide lol. Always tide on the cooling system. It worked ok.
I did a frame on a f-250 last week , with only a angle grinder and a wire brush , took 2 days and was a pain in the a$$ but it was definitely worth the time in the long run
I feel for you guys having to deal with what I assume is corrosion from salt on the roads - thankfully, we have none of that here in AUSTRALIA. HA - I think '99.0%' of us here would give up in tears if they were faced with such a daunting rust removal//remedy task. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
@@710performance this whole job is halfassed! I thought this kid was doing this as a business. Sure he has great work ethic but he continues his work like it’s his hobby. He sure won’t make money by doing things in a non-business way. Get the frame commercially sandblasted, remove the cab, do the entire frame. That needle scaler is way to small, needs an industrial model. Not hating on Ryan, he is a real nice guy….
Guys I live in the Northeast where there's plenty of salt on the roads please listen to me closely... Pressure wash underneath your truck and spray everything with either fluid film, lanolin or blaster surface protectant believe me the rust will stop.. I live in Northeast New York I know what rust is since I've been using lanolin fluid Film. The rust has come to a complete halt paint does not work it holds the moisture next to the metal... Feel free to inbox me I'll show you plenty of photos
Exactly! Ceramic paint might be great for a street queen with a chip and some Mexican wheels but nothing is beating spraying it with fluid film or NH oil.... You're not getting that paint into where it needs to be
why powdercoat. a frame flex, powdercoat not that much, and if you have chip its hard to do decent touchup. epoxy is better. thanks to share for rust converter tho, ive never seen that before !
Well if you wanna do it the hard way that’s fine I’ve been restoring vehicles for years I appreciate your hard work and dedication to descaling a frame but there’s a much easier way and when you’re done there’s nothing left on it hot water sandblasting at 4000 psi then repeat Hot water sandblasting works much better I used to do it the way you guys did it then I discovered this I threw my air scaler away just saying not judging but try it But I definitely do agree with you on the rubberized undercoat it’s garbage I’m in Canada and we deal with salt shit but try the hot water Sam blasting it makes life so much easier and it doesn’t hurt anything been doing it now for four years with great results
I know that this is an older video, but for other people to refrence, a gloss paint will actually last longer than a matte paint due to its chemical composition, not saying it'll look 100% but it will look better for longer.
I spray paint my car and truck chassis and floorboards and frame, including the underside of my truck bed with rust olem black paint. Helps keep the underside of my car and truck protected when they put road salts and chemicals on the roads. That extra protection sure does help a lot.
I use Hammerrite spray on my crown Vic's frame after sanding. Roadsalt in the winter here in Norway. Not good for the brakeparts. Has replaced the rotors too. Has not used any Fluidfilm. Can not have some underflush. Must recoat the fluidfilm about every year.
Best video from you in awhile. Reminds me of your old videos back when you tested stuff and taught people how to do stuff. Most of the content lately is just “look what I did you won’t believe what I’m gonna do”. We are alll loving your success. Just like the old style videos. Like “can you VHT tail light tint your windows?” 😂
Do a coil swap on the front and take out those leaf springs. I got an 04 Excursion and it’s got the leafs on the front and it’s ugly. The coil can be color matched nicely too
We undercoat everything where I work..hot rods only..under the car or cab and bed unless there is wood on the bed floor ..under inner fenders inside the cab or car..raptor liner and sometimes SEM (WHICH IS NOT SO GREAT) BUT hardened coatings are great when done right and only powder frames but we have painted some show frames like bagged trucks. Powder is where it's at..rubberized is garbage and shouldn't be used period on anything PERIOD!
Should just pull the cab at this point and do it right the first time. That way you take care of all the rust on the frame and paint it to prevent it from rusting again.
Question. When using this rust converter, if you overspray on to something, lets use a shock as an example, that has no rust, will it stain or anything to that shock?
Always Saving my life motivational..... Going through hell everyday to get by . But thanks to your motivation to post everything. Drive my goals to step up my goals, views, uploading to my channel. I have loved busting my butt all my life and now almost going on 3 years starting to post my as well .
This is not correct and you aware totally wrong. If it was paint, it would have done the same things. Painting over rust is the issue. Undercoat works just as good as paint or better. It is rubberised on like paint that will chip by rocks etc. What this person lay have done and what not to do is undercoating or painting over rust. I’ve gotten awesome results by first removing the rust, then priming with a good rust primer, then two thin coast of rubberised undercoat. This takes patience and time.
Man I just got my first 7.3 it’s a 2002 and I have absolutely no clue where to start, 250k miles mint body condition it does have bigger injectors and a bigger turbo, you got in tips for me brother or part ideas ? I really need some guidance on some parts
My truck was flaged for a frame replacement...(10 YEARS OLD) When inspection by dealership...THEY WERE AMAZED and said NO REPLACEMENT REQUIRED.... then they asked ..."who did the undercoating on your vehicle" I DO ALL MY UNDERCOATING...it's an 55 year old recipe 😀
Stacked blocks are a big no no, should be against DOT because it is unsafe, my Suburban had 2" blocks, it kept busting them, I ended up replacing the springs going with a 6" lift and made my own ladder bars from square tubing, never another issue. I have a van now, easier transportation in my situation, has rust issues, having the passenger rocker completely replaced, surface rust on the frame, would love to sand blast it, but I just can't afford it.
Great Choice on the Eastwood Surface Prep Tool, and Eastwood Products. I went with a portable sandblaster, full POR kit with the Top Coat, and Eastwoods internal frame coating. Powder coated the leaf springs in Red to match my Rancho Suspension Lift Kit.
I still have to redo the wiring harnesses; the OEM plastic wring loom is crap. You can find dried up salt inside, so I'll go with the Painless Performance Fabric Wiring looms
Hello great video. I was wondering if you put that after you sprayed the whole truck with the rust remover did you have to wipe that stuff off before you spray painted it?
I always used oil base tar undercoat. They use to sell it as sound deadner, dirt sticks to it thou. On a hot day it gets tacky like the blacktop road...
Those types of products for rust converters are a phosphate solution, they convert iron oxide to iron phosphate chemically. Wonderful products and amazing for restoration work of all kinds.
I’m so glad I will never have to worry about rust from being in California but when I go to college I hope I don’t have to worry about my old dodge getting horrible rust 🙏
An awesome paint for frames and under body is two part swimming pool epoxy it's made to last year's in direct sunlight and in direct contact with corrosive chlorine it lasts forever under a vehicle out of direct sunlight I use an industrial zinc etching primer then spray it with the epoxy a sandblaster won't even take it off once it's cured
The best solution is what the military has been doing since ww1. RP-342! It's a wx base cosmoline and can be found on amazon. It's superior to paint in every way for preventing rust and is so effective it was designed to be use on bare steel. That's why you can pop open a crate of ww2 rifles and find zero rust. Frame paint is good bt a pinhole is all I takes to negate its protections and RP-342 WILLMSELF SEAL and prevents water and salts from getting under it even if a spot is missed.
Should I use cosmoline or fluid film for undercoating a truck?
@@simd510 I have no experience with the products containing cosmoline. Though I have never seen or heard a bad story about it. So, you have products containing cosmoline , there's fluid film, woolwax and pb blaster. They each will protect equally well. They each really do a great job. Some people complain about the smell of fluid film but it is extremely easy to apply. Woolwax is about the most difficult to apply and should be lightly warmed up to apply. Then there's pb blaster. Almost as easy to apply as fluid film and doesn't smell. It's pretty easy to spray.
Fluid film or oil based undercoatings are great for corrosion protection. In this case you should try Chassis Saver by magnet paints, its awesome if the chassis is prepped properly. Rubber undercoating traps moisture
Ive been trying to figure out the best way to prevent further rust and have landed on Fluid film... but seeing this chassis saver makes me wonder... which would you recommend for someone in Virginia w/an 04 and some fairly heavy surface rust?
@@lilshaff07 fluid film black, that's what I use on my Toyo.
Lol IV always undercoat my frames. Should I just let them rot according to the video headline?
Zinc. nickel . chrome.anodize. when I worked at the electro plating company I figured out nothing beats it's nothing . We would electro plate everything then paint it. Bike's quads Jeep's Harley's you name it.
Fluid film is the best option even the hard reach spots that still have rubbized undercoating will soften up after a few weeks when fluod film is sprayed over those areas. After a month in warm temps the rubber mixed with fluid film will scape off easy
Totally thought he got rid of his shop. Glad he still has it. Love the content when it's just him in his space.
That needle scaler is tiny compared to the ones we use in the navy. When you get a big boy it’s really satisfying busting up some rust. We also call them needle guns in the navy.
I was thinking the same thing. That scaler looks like a toy...
Ugh, how I loathe the needle gun. So many hours of my life spent needle gunning the ship. My hands go numb just thinking about it 😅
Same thing here. I'm in the merchant navy and we use much bigger, same nickname. It's basically "rust busting" even how they used to do it (by hand) back in the day on tallships. Good video though! I've got a late 99 7.3 and was already planning to do something like this in the summer. I would probably have used the cheap oil or canned rubber shit though, thanks for the tip
Where can a normal civilian find one?
@@Jenuin Amazon has a couple of them.
YES YES YES ! An old school ryan video , with just him doing his thing , without all the nonsense going on in the back ground ,, loved this video this is why we all come to watch these videos ,,, great video Ryan!
Although I don’t dislike any of his videos, I do have to agree with you.
I agree with you 💯👍
Totally agree!!!
I agree
@@farmingngu exactly.
My girl just broke up with me last night thank god u posted a new video you inspire me to do better in life thank you !
Bro!! It’ll be the best lesson of your life!! Work on yourself and the better new door will open when you lease expect it!
Sounds like is party time…
Just kidding bro. I don’t know your situation (but usually everything works out for the best).
Stay strong (hint: freedom is amazing )… 😂😂😖
Eastwood is good stuff. Another good rust converter is Ospho. Another good frame paint is Chassis Saver by Monstaliner. Definitely don't undercoat with tar or rubber or spray paint. Those seal in the rust and the frame rots from the inside out. Surface Shield is a non-hardening lanolin based spray coating that prevents rust. Spray inside and outside the box frame. I spray everything under the vehicle except brake rotors and exhaust systems. It's also great to spray inside doors and rocker panels but make sure the door weep holes remain open. Touch up next year and every other year after that. Don't pressure wash under the truck. Spring rains will wash away the salt deposits on the outside of the Surface Shield that never make it to the frame. Surface Shield is also the best anti-corrosion treatment I've found for battery terminals.
just went through 3 cases of Woolwax on a 2007 civic, a 2018 camry, and a 2005 highlander, and still gonna order more....I'm getting every damn nook, cranny, and cavity so help me God. F-ing rust!
What about POR 15?
@@johnathanpratt944 negative... it can crack and allow moisture under and you'll never know. I've read plenty of people frustrated they followed all the prep and then it didn't adhere. Stay with goo that creeps and cuts off oxygen...and apply annually early Fall when it is still warm out so the material flows out the spray can and won't clog up.
@@richcombs4805 Gotcha. I'll check out Eastwood. However do you think it'd work if I prime and frame coat over it?
@@richcombs4805 goo, interesting. I'll check it out. Thanks!
Honestly like when you work alone. You put pride into your work. Not all about rushing things…
There's a guy here on YT that did a comparison of undercoat, and rust converters that didn't think much of Eastwood and suggested another product that had an acid etch to it that actually converted the rust. The site is Repair Geek and I thought he did a good job with his testing. Here in New England , it's a bear to keep things rust-free. My F350 7.3 got eaten alive by salt.
great comment
If needle scaler quits working you’ve rounded over your needles. I took mine out and put a square corner back on them with a flap wheel and it was like new again
Rubberized undercoat is very good BUT it’s only effective when there is absolutely no moisture, dirt, rust etc on the surface. I would only put it on a brand new cars or a very, very well prepped surfaces like e.g
during/after a restoration. But for my taste I would always choose a regular chassis paint and then wax or oil coat the undercarriage. Pressure wash it once after the winter and coat it again. I prefer having the surface smooth so the dirt have harder time sticking to the surface and it’s easier to clean then the rough texture of the rubberised undercoat paint.
My Escalade came rust free from Florida to PA so we undercoated it when it got here to prevent winter rust
I honestly would of give up on that build. Thanks for making the impossible possible. Keep up the great work!
fluid film is a great undercoat, our trucks have zero rust because of it
Yup or woolwax undercoating
What is fluid film ?
@@fastfreddie831 corrosion protectant
Nice to see an actual Ryan Mayer Video!
I used a rattle can of rubberized paintable undercoating on a utility trailed frame. It became a rust magnet and it never saw rain. Had to scrape it all off and start over.
I always used farm and implement paint, usually rustoleum cut 50/50. Get the scale off, and give it time to seep in, suggest at least 74F at night with low humidity ( with fans running ), if not using heaters lol. Always rustoleum rust reformer nowadays first now here and there, that frame will need a ton of it (not a fan of water based, metal loves oil) lol. And invest of a set of PPG nozzles. Like 60 bux. It does a good job, check rust every month or 2 and touch up. In a year or so wont see any usually. Back in the day i use used motor oil, trans fluid, and kerosene with a dash of tide lol. Always tide on the cooling system. It worked ok.
I did a frame on a f-250 last week , with only a angle grinder and a wire brush , took 2 days and was a pain in the a$$ but it was definitely worth the time in the long run
I feel for you guys having to deal with what I assume is corrosion from salt on the roads - thankfully, we have none of that here in AUSTRALIA. HA - I think '99.0%' of us here would give up in tears if they were faced with such a daunting rust removal//remedy task. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
I picked up an old land cruiser from Eyre Peninsula S.A and the chassis is going to require the exact same treatment. I will probably kbs coat it.
From Denmark: Lucky you! :)
Oil undercoat first then one month after I use oil based undercoat . That rubberized stuff should be taken off market
Why would you not take the cab off at this point?
That's what I was thinking. When you're going to do something like this, why not do it right. This seems a bit half assed to me.
@@710performance this whole job is halfassed! I thought this kid was doing this as a business. Sure he has great work ethic but he continues his work like it’s his hobby. He sure won’t make money by doing things in a non-business way. Get the frame commercially sandblasted, remove the cab, do the entire frame. That needle scaler is way to small, needs an industrial model. Not hating on Ryan, he is a real nice guy….
I like these videos where you're learning or trying something new. It's cool seeing these trucks as they go through the progress.
I had to learn the hard way about rubberized frame coatings. Even the hard wax coatings suck.
Guys I live in the Northeast where there's plenty of salt on the roads please listen to me closely... Pressure wash underneath your truck and spray everything with either fluid film, lanolin or blaster surface protectant believe me the rust will stop.. I live in Northeast New York I know what rust is since I've been using lanolin fluid Film. The rust has come to a complete halt paint does not work it holds the moisture next to the metal... Feel free to inbox me I'll show you plenty of photos
Exactly! Ceramic paint might be great for a street queen with a chip and some Mexican wheels but nothing is beating spraying it with fluid film or NH oil.... You're not getting that paint into where it needs to be
Rust oil undercoating is the best and self heals and doesn't trap water. I agree, rubberized is crap.
why powdercoat. a frame flex, powdercoat not that much, and if you have chip its hard to do decent touchup. epoxy is better. thanks to share for rust converter tho, ive never seen that before !
It's nice to see you behind the camera explaining things. I love the videos like this.
I agree about the rubber coating and the spray in bed liner crap. That stuff cracks and is the cause of rust!!! It is junk!!
Well if you wanna do it the hard way that’s fine I’ve been restoring vehicles for years I appreciate your hard work and dedication to descaling a frame but there’s a much easier way and when you’re done there’s nothing left on it hot water sandblasting at 4000 psi then repeat Hot water sandblasting works much better I used to do it the way you guys did it then I discovered this I threw my air scaler away just saying not judging but try it But I definitely do agree with you on the rubberized undercoat it’s garbage I’m in Canada and we deal with salt shit but try the hot water Sam blasting it makes life so much easier and it doesn’t hurt anything been doing it now for four years with great results
I know that this is an older video, but for other people to refrence, a gloss paint will actually last longer than a matte paint due to its chemical composition, not saying it'll look 100% but it will look better for longer.
The rust converter is awesome works really well, great video Ryan keep it up. 💯
What is the name of the rust converter?
I spray paint my car and truck chassis and floorboards and frame, including the underside of my truck bed with rust olem black paint. Helps keep the underside of my car and truck protected when they put road salts and chemicals on the roads. That extra protection sure does help a lot.
2 more recommended things, turbo nozzle for pressure washer, and garden sprayer with pump for the rust treatment
How do you find a garage that will allow you working on vehicles? I've been looking for a place but they all say no automotive work.
I have not been watching regularly because the channel changes so much. This video is old school. Keep this going please.
I use fluid film ? Is it bad ?
I use Hammerrite spray on my crown Vic's frame after sanding. Roadsalt in the winter here in Norway. Not good for the brakeparts. Has replaced the rotors too. Has not used any Fluidfilm. Can not have some underflush. Must recoat the fluidfilm about every year.
Best video from you in awhile. Reminds me of your old videos back when you tested stuff and taught people how to do stuff.
Most of the content lately is just “look what I did you won’t believe what I’m gonna do”.
We are alll loving your success. Just like the old style videos. Like “can you VHT tail light tint your windows?” 😂
18:20 - "I forget what's in here." The rust conversion chemical is probably phosphoric acid or something very similar.
Hi sir, what are those wheels brands and specifications? Please thank you.
PAINT ?? Fluid Film or Wool Wax, Where you been ??
Important message is on 07:50.
Do a coil swap on the front and take out those leaf springs. I got an 04 Excursion and it’s got the leafs on the front and it’s ugly. The coil can be color matched nicely too
Nope. Leaves are the best.
We undercoat everything where I work..hot rods only..under the car or cab and bed unless there is wood on the bed floor ..under inner fenders inside the cab or car..raptor liner and sometimes SEM (WHICH IS NOT SO GREAT) BUT hardened coatings are great when done right and only powder frames but we have painted some show frames like bagged trucks. Powder is where it's at..rubberized is garbage and shouldn't be used period on anything PERIOD!
How many spray bottles of Rust Converter did you need to do the truck?
Why is his title do not undercoat your vehicles? Then he undercoats his vehicle?
Clickbait 😂
Hats off to you for bringing this truck back from the dead. I would have run from it with all that rust...yikes!
Should just pull the cab at this point and do it right the first time. That way you take care of all the rust on the frame and paint it to prevent it from rusting again.
I find that rust converter can make the surface you treated does not allow the top coat to mechanically bond.
Question. When using this rust converter, if you overspray on to something, lets use a shock as an example, that has no rust, will it stain or anything to that shock?
there is something so satisfying watching a needle gun bust rust
Why not ??? Video was all talking about putting shit on the rusty frame
Sand and paint exactly. Undercoating makes a mess and just slops up and covers rust
How long before you replaced those leaf spring shackles? Did you wait until one broke?
I suppose I should have watched the video prior to commenting lol.
Can you spray it with apple cider vinegar ?
Always Saving my life motivational..... Going through hell everyday to get by . But thanks to your motivation to post everything. Drive my goals to step up my goals, views, uploading to my channel. I have loved busting my butt all my life and now almost going on 3 years starting to post my as well .
Just wondering won’t it still rust painting over the rust if the inside of the frame is rusted
That is the question
SOMEONE TELL THIS NERD THEY MAKE BIGGER NEEDLE SCALERS.
It’s great to see that truck getting a second chance 👍🏻💯keep up the grind man love to see it
Why don't you sand blast the rust off?? It is a lot faster and works better...
sandblasting not work on the undercoat.?
This is not correct and you aware totally wrong. If it was paint, it would have done the same things. Painting over rust is the issue. Undercoat works just as good as paint or better. It is rubberised on like paint that will chip by rocks etc. What this person lay have done and what not to do is undercoating or painting over rust. I’ve gotten awesome results by first removing the rust, then priming with a good rust primer, then two thin coast of rubberised undercoat. This takes patience and time.
How much is that SVT tool?
Man I just got my first 7.3 it’s a 2002 and I have absolutely no clue where to start, 250k miles mint body condition it does have bigger injectors and a bigger turbo, you got in tips for me brother or part ideas ? I really need some guidance on some parts
6636 donaldson, 6.0 intercooler, charge pipes, non ebvp pedestal, bellowed up pipes, transmission cooler, white rodgers glow plug relay, frx crossover.
My truck was flaged for a frame replacement...(10 YEARS OLD) When inspection by dealership...THEY WERE AMAZED and said NO REPLACEMENT REQUIRED.... then they asked ..."who did the undercoating on your vehicle" I DO ALL MY UNDERCOATING...it's an 55 year old recipe 😀
Stacked blocks are a big no no, should be against DOT because it is unsafe, my Suburban had 2" blocks, it kept busting them, I ended up replacing the springs going with a 6" lift and made my own ladder bars from square tubing, never another issue.
I have a van now, easier transportation in my situation, has rust issues, having the passenger rocker completely replaced, surface rust on the frame, would love to sand blast it, but I just can't afford it.
Great Choice on the Eastwood Surface Prep Tool, and Eastwood Products. I went with a portable sandblaster, full POR kit with the Top Coat, and Eastwoods internal frame coating. Powder coated the leaf springs in Red to match my Rancho Suspension Lift Kit.
I still have to redo the wiring harnesses; the OEM plastic wring loom is crap. You can find dried up salt inside, so I'll go with the Painless Performance Fabric Wiring looms
Is doing cosmoline undercoating as bad as doing rubber undercoating?
The best way to repaint it is to put zinc primer first before painting it.
The zinc will fight off the rust.
Put zinc primer before the rust converter?
you can't put zinc over converted rust.
It only works on bare steel.
@@R26Roman
Name of first song?
Impossible to get everything..Overwhelmed, patience of Job! What about acid dipping?
How many miles on a truck is to many to build ?
are your rear shocks upsidedown???????
Hello great video. I was wondering if you put that after you sprayed the whole truck with the rust remover did you have to wipe that stuff off before you spray painted it?
undercoat is the $hi+! i use it on everything!
What paint is recommended for painting a frame ?
undercoat it with old motor oil
only downside is dirt sticks to it like a magnet
but hey, extra protection right?
I always used oil base tar undercoat. They use to sell it as sound deadner, dirt sticks to it thou. On a hot day it gets tacky like the blacktop road...
How many bottles did it take you to spray the whole frame, with second coats done?
why was the music so loud?
Those types of products for rust converters are a phosphate solution, they convert iron oxide to iron phosphate chemically. Wonderful products and amazing for restoration work of all kinds.
Whats the name of the song in the beginning of the video?
Here for the info.. commenting for the song name! What is this?
This video is one of the best video in a while no nonsense in the back just Ryan doing his thing 💯💯
Have you tried POR 15 RUST CONVERTER?
How much for those wheels? If your not keeps them.
I’m so glad I will never have to worry about rust from being in California but when I go to college I hope I don’t have to worry about my old dodge getting horrible rust 🙏
wax or oil are also good because they actively displace water and penetrate around bolts, they sure make it nasty to work on though.
Love the build. You should the opposite of 6.7 lime. Do the body purple with green accents
What is the reason for power washing the frame with bare metal you would just create more surface rust.
If you have a sand blaster why are you not using it?
Good video bro these are the kinds of videos we wanna see where it’s just you working on the new projects and builds no other distractions
Ayyy what lug are those rims and will you sell them ??
They are 8x170 lug pattern
Loving this build brother!
I definitely don’t miss when I wire wheeled my first gens entire frame
can you use this stuff on suspension parts too?
Yes
Does not matter as long as you use a metal etching primer/ rust enhibter primer.
It seems that the chassis receiived no epixy primer during chassis coating is applied.
i love that pretty much no one builds this year of ford trucks but your just built diffrent 😂
He just builds different
An awesome paint for frames and under body is two part swimming pool epoxy it's made to last year's in direct sunlight and in direct contact with corrosive chlorine it lasts forever under a vehicle out of direct sunlight I use an industrial zinc etching primer then spray it with the epoxy a sandblaster won't even take it off once it's cured
ingersol rand makes a needle scaler its a bit bigger but its 5x better then the small one you have