Hey Bud I’m looking to do an off frame build on my 68 C-10. I know the frame is still solid. But for future reference if I run across a project to where the frame needs a lot of work including patch work do I need to pass that project up or do I go ahead and spend the extra time on re-enforcement and bringing it back up
There are lots of products out there to "peel and seal" frames now, but you get "props", for the wire wheel, manual labor, sweat equity approach! Some people don't have the work ethic you do, congrats!
I did one 1940 Ford coupe frame at the same time as a 1957 Chevy ragtop frame...side by side. We sandblasted them roughly to knock off most of the rust and then sprayed both with a metal acid from Zep. Then repeated both steps the next day. Then sprayed heavy coats of epoxy primer, waited six hours and gave them another prime. Then sprayed catalyzed acrylic enamel black, numerous coats to get the shiney look. Even clear coated with a catalyzed urethane clear. Two years later, when we had both of the bodies finished and dropped back down with the engines, the frames looked fab. 34 years later, in 2018, the man who still owned both cars called me to come inspect the acrylic lacquer finishes (Ditxler). Even though both cars had been driven to various shows, but were lept in his barn most of the time, I got down on the floor and flashlighted the frames. They were still 100% and still shiney! Compared to the coal tar based black enamel the Ford factory used and the black alkyd enamel GM used, they really proved the better, doing it how we did. I hope I never have to do another frame, just like I hope I never have to hang another front clip on a '50 Chevy truck.
Just scored a frame for my '92 F150 restoration project, so that's what brought me here. Its videos like this that keep me inspired to keep moving on my own projects, so thank you for that.
When spraying inside your cross members,If you put tape about a inch from the end of the rubber tube,you will know when it is close to the end pulling it out. I hope you did not get any over spray on your truck parked in the doorway,you might want to cover it up if you spray again. You can buy a roll of plastic at the auto paint store,it's around 14' wide and 300' long to cover your projects with. It turned out great! Nice job.
You won my subscription... I have done this type of job many a time... I used compressed air after wire wheeleing to get the dirt out of the cracks... (with safety glasses on) and then wiped the whole frame and surface with a gallon of paint thinner to get more dirt out (in tight places I ouredd a couple of ounces to flush out the dirt) and then another once over with the air compressor and blower nozzel.... Thenan ethyl alcohol wipe down as a final prep... I am not criticising .... You said you wanted to hear feedback - alternative methods so - you asked for it ( just kidding) GREAT show BTW... Thanks for sharing...
I admire your thoroughness and discipline to completely derust and clean the frame to prep for coating with rust preventative ! Your work will preserve that truck frame for many years of service ! Great job !
True!! It was a lot of work. It looks GREAT. Right now, I got a 79 F 150 Styleside that my dad had new before I went into the Navy. I retired from the navy and been working on it. Engine, transmission and differential done. Time to put this puzzle back together. Real fun!!!
I’m building a willys wagon with 1-ton Chevy gear & you’re approach is pretty much identical to mine. ...& that shop you got there is the real deal, I built my first hot rod in a barn & stuff like that gives everything we do a real charisma, I love it!
You need 2 engine stands converted to frame holders which when you weld flat plates to them they can bolt straight to the frame on the front and back allowing for you to roll it around and also spin frame 360 when painting it. I have an buddy who did this technique for his 63 impala
You are the real deal, hard core manual labor the whole way. Eastwood has a power washer dustless blaster attachment that would have made short work of knocking the rust off that frame and would have degreased it at the same time. Then a cheap throwaway paint gun for the encapsulator and chassis paint. But like I said, I'm lazy!! I have a 10K Challenger automotive lift that I can use instead of jack stands, but very few people have one of their own. It turned out great though. Thanks for the video.
I have a background in aircraft parts reconditioning and painting. I really like using Sherwin Williams hex chromium epoxy primer for a base. In my experience rust encapsulate products do not work because rust can flake off in which oxides can redevelop. In your situation your frame was so nice and rust free I would have opted to do a phosphoric acid soak and rinse and then epoxy prime. The reason i like the hex chromium epoxy paint is that it is mil spec for aircraft coating. If it's good enough for an airframe then good enough for a car. Fantastic effort and a job well done. Your attention to detail was amazing.
I like how you did the silver Rust Encapsulator on the bare frame, then the black 2K top coat. Makes it a helluva lot easier to see where you've painted, and where you've missed. Good subliminal tip!
Looks good. Just need to remember to use a breathing apparatus at all time when dealing with aerosol and eye protection especially when your working under something like that frame when brushing on the protective coat.
@@partsandresto perfect job, just whispering here, next time if possible, cover that nice ride by the door from all the paint, man that frame, well done
@@partsandresto very thorough and nice job. Mopar lover myself. When you were doing the last part with the frame on its side, you can see the air currents (looks like) moving through the shop toward you. Wear painting respirator for this people. Those painting products are not made to be inhaled even in small amounts. Stay safe and GOD Bless.
I like the mild humor and trying to make your videos fun. That's a lot of hard work and dedication you put into the frame. I can't wait to see the finished project. Keep up the good work and awesome job demonstrating some great products.
Good effort on the manual labour. I use one of those air varsol sprayer's to spray rust inhibiter inside a frame, it comes out as a fog and gets everything inside coated including seams.
That frame is in better shape than any jeep I've been under! Great work bud, love your steel toe toes! But you need to use safety equipment gloves respirator safety glasses all the time. Take it from someone who has been doing this 40 years. Love your shop!
@@partsandresto I figured the GMC was parked there as a deterent, I would have done the same as well although would have also been worried about the overspray loool.......great job man, really hard work although really rewarding work! I have yet to try the Eastwood products although have had great success with Rust Bullet sealers and rust inhibitors, have you ever tried them on any of your projects? would be interesting to see between Rust Bullet and Eastwood which if any is slightly better than the other, Cheers bro
Most overspray will dry in mid air before touching the 20 foot mark leaving it easy to wash off so don't worry about it just paint and realize that there's an reason you hold your paint gun 6 to 8 inches away cause it gose on wet from that distance and sticks 20 feet is plenty room to get it off your truck I paint houses ,cars ,rod iron fences and have never got anything on my truck that wouldn't just wash right off. Good day to you guys and yes house paint is designed to stick to metal as well as wood and stucko also.
I'm starting a '57 Studebaker 3/4 ton in similar condition this year. I needed to see this. Lotta work and a good job. Clever subliminal. Glad to see you ended the video the same way you started it; Murphy's. It's the best Irish stout. Thanks.
First ever video I've seen of yours and honestly it was awesome. Great job on all that hard work. Only thing I would have for criticism is typically when painting you do a really light first two coats allowing the material to flow and adhere better to the frame. I don't know if you'll have any bad effects from going so heavy right off the bat but I know that with everything I've painted going two light coats then a medium coat always serves me well. Cheers my guy
Great job. I have done this myself and don't mind hard work to get great results like this. However, long pants and work boots are a must in a shop always. Shop work is not at a summer barbecue or a trip to the beach. Think safety and exposure to chemicals etc. You only have one you!
Enjoyed the view, showing an average Joe with the bare basic tools performing a great job and enjoying the project...Eastwood is surely a company that is DIY friendly with tech support and easy to use products. Thanks again for the video and looking forward to more progress
I love your videos, keep them coming! I don't know anything about restoring an old car or truck so I appreciate all the little details in your tutorials (equipment, sprays and products you use, etc).
Very nice!! Thanks for letting us know how much rust encapsulation you used. Would also be great if you can share quantity of other materials used. And, especially, how many hours of labor did it take you to do this frame restoration project? I enjoy doing projects like these but find I’m always underestimating the materials and time to complete...
Hey bro you were very very educational towards what I am doing so forget the naysayers I give you thumbs up 10 times all the way brother keep doing what you're doing I'm enjoying watching so thumbs up from me my friend you're excellent at what you do brother
Yeah I think you're awesome bro I'm trying to Fix a frame that I bought which is a 86 El Camino frame and I want to be able to painted Chrome and make it look nice under the bottom so I definitely needed your help and your video is awesome bro thank you for that
Nicely done. That is exactly how i'd do it if I had somewhere to do it. I've got a few projects waiting for a shop to get built. Hopefully 2021 will be the year. Smart move using the silver chassis paint. Makes it easy to see if you miss any spots with the black top coat. I plan on using the Eastwood products when I get around to doing the frames on my squarebodies. I May even do the frame on my 57 Two-Ten but not sure yet as it's a little too nice to tear apart just yet.
Nice job, very thorough. I'm getting inspired to do my '55 chevy frame. My first frame off. Got a rolling frame looking at me. With winter coming, admiring your garage space too. Thanks
nice work on the frame. I have two truck projects plus two car, which might go half and half original stock to some modifications. I have enjoyed many interests which started with cars. Hope to see more of your projects. I will review your past videos.
Nice job! Looking to use the same product on my F-350 frame. Curious how the finish was after brush coating the platinum paint.. Did it leave any brush stroke imprints or did it sort of self level and come out as a smooth finish when dried? If not, would you suggest using a spray gun instead of brushing for a smooth finish look?
New subscriber here, I started working on my late Dad's 1971 Chevrolet C-10. There's some rust on the frame but mostly on the rear half of the truck frame, glad I found this video and now know what to do. Keep up with the cool Videos 👍🇺🇸..
Makes me wish I had a shop big enough to do a frame off resto. But for now I have to fake it. Doing the best I can for now. Looking awesome! Subbed and following along. Glad this showed up in my feed! Keep up the good work. Remember us little guys when you hit 100k subs. 😜🙌🏼
Hey man good job, I used to do a lot of this stuff and Really enjoyed it. But if I may suggest, Cleaning, scraping, wire brushing, scratching and picking is a lot of hard work. See if there is a place where you can take the frame to have it dipped in hydrochloric acid. They will let it sit there for about 6 to 8 hours and it will eat off all the rust and paint. I used to spend days on one frame Until my hands hurt so bad I couldn’t stand it. Once you get it back from the dipping process all you have to do is clean it 👍. 2) Don’t buy the pre-. Load up a paint gun with lacquer thinner and use a nylon brush while increasing the pressure. It’s cheaper and more effective. Just make sure you open up the overhead doors and use a charcoal mask. Eastwood make some good finish paint and the 2K is excellent. I used a ton of it. If you’re able, invest in a Little compressor and a spraygun. It will cut your time down 70% And material about 20%. The press encapsulator you used from Eastwood with the flexible tube is excellent. Tip: Cut a wire hanger and tape it to the tube… Gives you more control. 👍. These are just some time saving tips. Excellent job. Looks great
I did not read all the comments but I am surprised you did not use a frame rotisserie to do the work. Very nice work. This is my fist visit. Happy Holiday
It’s really interesting how a truck frame from the 50’s is so solid and the frame on my 96 Silverado is literally flaking apart. It’s so bad that a had to have 2 cracks in the Chanel repairs with diamond plate and 1/4” steel on both sides of the frame by the front spring eyes. But I do like Eastwood’s products and may try them out on a 79 trans am frame I’ll be restoring.
Dave maybe you can work in some beer reviews during intermissions. It’s a win win. Diggin’ all your restorations from the early hand tools and man cabin to this power wagon. Next time I’m in your hood I’ll stop by and check out the projects. Stay safe.
Nice job, I went with their middle of the road encapsulator about 8months ago and not entirely happy with the outcome, have you noticed any small bit of rust/oxidation coming through? I did alot of the same steps in the video and also did two coats of each product and feel like it should have last alot longer.. may gas tank skid is where I noticed it most. Maybe I should have used the 2k instead of the chassis black, hope to see updates, awesome looking frame brother!
I used the Eastwood black encapsulator on my 95 Chevy truck frame. Have the same problem with rust coming back though it. And frame has been mostly stored in my garage.
Wow Dave! Looks like an epic couple of days! The first day seemed to be a long one. Definitely, Great results 👍 Frame looks factory fresh. Love your videos, entertaining, informative; and well done! Look forward to all of them!
I admit it, I'm lazy, I would've rented a dustless blaster from Sunbelt for $600 a day instead of the wire wheel. You're a better man than I to do it that way.
This was a nice video to watch. I'm in my shop by myself and watching you do exactly what I have done. I can relate to all the frame challenges. Good luck with your builds!
This is the first video of yours I have seen. Subscribed. I'm going to do the same to my '93 Chevy C3500 crew cab long bed so when I am gone, my 3 year old (currently) son will have this 21+ foot long beast to call his own.
Having lots of blasting and painting experience I've never come across a product that can be applied over rust that doesn't make things worse long term that said paint products are evolving hope it works out good effort
Hello Dave. New subscriber here, enjoyed this one will check out your others. My sons and I doing body-off frame restoration (or maybe more correctly renovation) on our 1946 CJ-2a Jeep. Woo ee, you are right.... quite a job, much more rust than on your Power Wagon frame however. We are doing a little different because of all the rust, and because this old gal has a WWII MB Jeep frame "'upgraded" for the civilian market (steel straps tack and stick welded to the top and bottom of the frame giving more places for rust to hide. So after scraping off the REALLY old grease and what chunks we could otherwise get loose (a gasket scraper served us well), we used a needle scaler to get most of the rust scale off along with the fossilized grease. we used a Harbor Freight "Professional model" and it was both a reasonable cost and did as intended. Next used a sand blaster with glass-bead medium which also did a good job, mostly ran at 110 psi that really knocked out the pitted areas, and will use a wire wheel where needed as the last step as you did. Not familiar with the Eastwood products but will look into that. We've been using Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer (red one) and applied with our touch up spray gun, also works well for those hidden nooks and cranies. Really liked the rattle can with primer discharged from a tube that you demoed... handy indeed! Another thing... we have a number of impossible-to-get-to captured nuts so if you run across this, just run a tap through them... will save time later, I promise. We will continue to learn from your experiences. Thank you. Richard, Mike and Mark W Utah
Your one tough workin dude, you saw to it and completed it and showed that frame who’s boss! Glad to see you with a respirator on for the two part spray bomb, let’s see some more of your stuff! Take care
I use a lot of Eastwood products as well. I find the tube that comes with the internal frame coat horrible. Especially for fully boxed frames. But it can never get it point where I need it. So I remove the tip and throw away the cheap tubing. I use the brass capillary tube, made for mechanical oil pressure gauges. Just use a nice snug rubber hose for attaching to the can end. And solder the spray tip to the tube. Now you have a hose that will reach anywhere you want and can hold its shape to get into tight corners and such.
Hydro blast would have taken that frame right to the ready to paint stage in about 2hrs. They come to you, look into it. Maybe for the next project.👍 Great job on the frame!
Get you a spray can handle thingy from parts or hardware store so you can hold it like a spray gun. Man that kills my finger pushing the button down for long periods. Good job.
I had an old boss who would get on the phone with her mortgage company at work. I'd hear her in her office basically begging them not to foreclose 😥 it's no joke out there, take care everyone
@@reallyhappenings5597 well I was referring to the music being overwhelming generic 😂 but to address your comment...she must have had a shitty lender 🤷🏼♂️ my lender takes whatever you can afford and defers the balance to the end of the term...thankfully I haven’t had to use this option yet...For now I still make a good income but I know many are only a paycheck away from absolute ruin 😔 all over the common cold too 🤔
I'm not a big fan of the cutesy stuff (magical changing clothes) but overall for a basic restoration with minimal tools and equipment, extremely well done. When I was doing restorations I never used Eastwood products to any degree (since they weren't there) hopefully these products will hold up over the long run.... Subscribed
And I thought you just "send it out" and it comes back blasted and painted 24 hours later!! Nice job. And the DPCD bolts... how many people know what it stands for?
How many cans of the 2K did you use?
5-6
That 5-6 cans, was that for one coat? Looking to use Eastwood 2K on my 1971 Monte frame and trying to figure out how much to buy for 2 coats. Thanks
@@tommik9368 Rattle cans give lousy coverage. Just use a spray gun, cheap enough and way better.
Hey Bud I’m looking to do an off frame build on my 68 C-10. I know the frame is still solid. But for future reference if I run across a project to where the frame needs a lot of work including patch work do I need to pass that project up or do I go ahead and spend the extra time on re-enforcement and bringing it back up
How much did the entire Eastwood stuff cost?
That frame is mint. Up here in Maine we make frame restoration videos on 2010 gm products 😹
Hahahahahha
I'll watch your video if you do not ad the extra crappy music or any music.
i was gonna say the same thing. try that here in upstate ny. had a 2013 the other day, almost time for junkyard
nice job though
Here in England we do the same on 2010 Land Rover vehicles!
There are lots of products out there to "peel and seal" frames now, but you get "props", for the wire wheel, manual labor, sweat equity approach! Some people don't have the work ethic you do, congrats!
Thanks bebo. Better to do it right and extend the life of this old gal
So true
You only have to do it once. If you do it right.
@@nicolec7290 That's the "thought" I live by, but not always the way I work, unfortunately! Ha Ha
I did one 1940 Ford coupe frame at the same time as a 1957 Chevy ragtop frame...side by side. We sandblasted them roughly to knock off most of the rust and then sprayed both with a metal acid from Zep. Then repeated both steps the next day. Then sprayed heavy coats of epoxy primer, waited six hours and gave them another prime. Then sprayed catalyzed acrylic enamel black, numerous coats to get the shiney look. Even clear coated with a catalyzed urethane clear. Two years later, when we had both of the bodies finished and dropped back down with the engines, the frames looked fab. 34 years later, in 2018, the man who still owned both cars called me to come inspect the acrylic lacquer finishes (Ditxler). Even though both cars had been driven to various shows, but were lept in his barn most of the time, I got down on the floor and flashlighted the frames. They were still 100% and still shiney! Compared to the coal tar based black enamel the Ford factory used and the black alkyd enamel GM used, they really proved the better, doing it how we did. I hope I never have to do another frame, just like I hope I never have to hang another front clip on a '50 Chevy truck.
Just scored a frame for my '92 F150 restoration project, so that's what brought me here. Its videos like this that keep me inspired to keep moving on my own projects, so thank you for that.
Restoring a 1991 f150 , I’m having trouble sourcing a new long box to replace the rusted out one
Just wanted to say that the level of your preparation is first class,
Clearly you work to exceptional standards,
Wow that’s really kind of you to say. Thank you
Dude. You are a beast. The frame restoration video was awesome! It’s about time someone did it right....And you didn’t even need expensive equipment.
Haha thanks. Gotta do it yourself how you want it done
That 1958 frame started out in mint condition compared to my 1994 GMC k1500.
And you made it even better. Great Job!
Not only a great frame restore, but that is a cool ass building! It has awesome character!
i was thinking the same thing the entire video
When spraying inside your cross members,If you put tape about a inch from the end of the rubber tube,you will know when it is close to the end pulling it out. I hope you did not get any over spray on your truck parked in the doorway,you might want to cover it up if you spray again. You can buy a roll of plastic at the auto paint store,it's around 14' wide and 300' long to cover your projects with. It turned out great! Nice job.
You won my subscription... I have done this type of job many a time... I used compressed air after wire wheeleing to get the dirt out of the cracks... (with safety glasses on) and then wiped the whole frame and surface with a gallon of paint thinner to get more dirt out (in tight places I ouredd a couple of ounces to flush out the dirt) and then another once over with the air compressor and blower nozzel.... Thenan ethyl alcohol wipe down as a final prep...
I am not criticising .... You said you wanted to hear feedback - alternative methods so - you asked for it ( just kidding) GREAT show BTW... Thanks for sharing...
Thanks Jim! I definitely did it the hard way. But hell, I already had the tools, so the rust removal was free. I like free
encapsulate the rust sounds like a time bomb. What will really stop surface rust in a cavity is lanoline grease (fluid film)
I admire your thoroughness and discipline to completely derust and clean the frame to prep for coating with rust preventative ! Your work will preserve that truck frame for many years of service ! Great job !
Thank you very much Larry!
So ridiculously satisfying seeing all that rust and shmoo come off.
Yasssssss. It was fun!
Your trick with the 2 pressure washers was nothing short of amazing & hilarious!!! You were levitating there for a few seconds. Awesome
Brutally well done ... Always cool to see ppl giving old trucks a new lease on life...
if you do read the comments, i have to say that you did a great job with this frame 👍
Thanks!!
This is a huuuuge job, and the job done was absolutely perfect. There is not much more you can do to make it any better
Thanks brother! Labor of love!
True!! It was a lot of work. It looks GREAT. Right now, I got a 79 F 150 Styleside that my dad had new before I went into the Navy. I retired from the navy and been working on it. Engine, transmission and differential done. Time to put this puzzle back together. Real fun!!!
The frame looked rust free from the start. Nice
I’m building a willys wagon with 1-ton Chevy gear & you’re approach is pretty much identical to mine.
...& that shop you got there is the real deal, I built my first hot rod in a barn & stuff like that gives everything we do a real charisma, I love it!
Yes sir, that’s the way to do it!
You need 2 engine stands converted to frame holders which when you weld flat plates to them they can bolt straight to the frame on the front and back allowing for you to roll it around and also spin frame 360 when painting it. I have an buddy who did this technique for his 63 impala
Genius 👍
You are the real deal, hard core manual labor the whole way. Eastwood has a power washer dustless blaster attachment that would have made short work of knocking the rust off that frame and would have degreased it at the same time. Then a cheap throwaway paint gun for the encapsulator and chassis paint. But like I said, I'm lazy!! I have a 10K Challenger automotive lift that I can use instead of jack stands, but very few people have one of their own. It turned out great though. Thanks for the video.
Who doesn't want to see someone else work their ass off like that?! Good job!
Haha. You got it!
I have a background in aircraft parts reconditioning and painting. I really like using Sherwin Williams hex chromium epoxy primer for a base. In my experience rust encapsulate products do not work because rust can flake off in which oxides can redevelop. In your situation your frame was so nice and rust free I would have opted to do a phosphoric acid soak and rinse and then epoxy prime. The reason i like the hex chromium epoxy paint is that it is mil spec for aircraft coating. If it's good enough for an airframe then good enough for a car. Fantastic effort and a job well done. Your attention to detail was amazing.
My man. You are one dedicated hommie. Frame looks brand new
Always can appreciate a mans hard work and still have time to create these great videos
Wish someone would have shown me that hand-clap clean-up trick years ago. Would have come in handy. Kids today got it easy...
Haha you said it brother
I like how you did the silver Rust Encapsulator on the bare frame, then the black 2K top coat. Makes it a helluva lot easier to see where you've painted, and where you've missed. Good subliminal tip!
Looks good. Just need to remember to use a breathing apparatus at all time when dealing with aerosol and eye protection especially when your working under something like that frame when brushing on the protective coat.
Yes sir. I’ve since learned
@@partsandresto perfect job, just whispering here, next time if possible, cover that nice ride by the door from all the paint, man that frame, well done
@@partsandresto very thorough and nice job. Mopar lover myself. When you were doing the last part with the frame on its side, you can see the air currents (looks like) moving through the shop toward you. Wear painting respirator for this people. Those painting products are not made to be inhaled even in small amounts. Stay safe and GOD Bless.
Years ago took a '48 cadilac chasis to have it dipped. I then sprayed it with Eastwood Black Jack. Turned out brand new!
They do quite a fine job with their paints don’t they!
When I was growing up, a farmer near me was always bragging about his KB-46 flatbed. That was back in the '60's. He had it many years.
Awesome. I bet it was sick
Don't forget to wear a respirator. GREAT JOB! You're a HARD WORKING MAN!
Thanks brother Earl
@@partsandresto Now trash that Flyers shirt and get a Bruins one. Merry Christmas to you and the family.
I like the mild humor and trying to make your videos fun. That's a lot of hard work and dedication you put into the frame. I can't wait to see the finished project. Keep up the good work and awesome job demonstrating some great products.
Loved your video -------- Great Job
Thanks HC
Good effort on the manual labour. I use one of those air varsol sprayer's to spray rust inhibiter inside a frame, it comes out as a fog and gets everything inside coated including seams.
That frame is in better shape than any jeep I've been under! Great work bud, love your steel toe toes! But you need to use safety equipment gloves respirator safety glasses all the time. Take it from someone who has been doing this 40 years. Love your shop!
Hey Hondo, yeah I’ll be taking better care of my lungs from here on out. Probably gonna get a full face piece respirator
Brave man, spraying with your GMC parked 20 feet away in the doorway. I would be so worried about the drifting overspray speckling my truck 🙂
Haha. I park the truck to keep random people from walking into the shop (when I don’t, they do) 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
@@partsandresto Just hang a sign that says "Warning: If you walk into my shop, I will paint you as well."
@@partsandresto I figured the GMC was parked there as a deterent, I would have done the same as well although would have also been worried about the overspray loool.......great job man, really hard work although really rewarding work! I have yet to try the Eastwood products although have had great success with Rust Bullet sealers and rust inhibitors, have you ever tried them on any of your projects? would be interesting to see between Rust Bullet and Eastwood which if any is slightly better than the other, Cheers bro
dries in air before reaching it
Most overspray will dry in mid air before touching the 20 foot mark leaving it easy to wash off so don't worry about it just paint and realize that there's an reason you hold your paint gun 6 to 8 inches away cause it gose on wet from that distance and sticks 20 feet is plenty room to get it off your truck I paint houses ,cars ,rod iron fences and have never got anything on my truck that wouldn't just wash right off. Good day to you guys and yes house paint is designed to stick to metal as well as wood and stucko also.
I'm starting a '57 Studebaker 3/4 ton in similar condition this year. I needed to see this. Lotta work and a good job.
Clever subliminal.
Glad to see you ended the video the same way you started it; Murphy's. It's the best Irish stout.
Thanks.
First ever video I've seen of yours and honestly it was awesome. Great job on all that hard work. Only thing I would have for criticism is typically when painting you do a really light first two coats allowing the material to flow and adhere better to the frame. I don't know if you'll have any bad effects from going so heavy right off the bat but I know that with everything I've painted going two light coats then a medium coat always serves me well. Cheers my guy
Thanks Ryan, that’s good advise. I’m literally flying by the seat of my pants
exactly
Great job.
I have done this myself and don't mind hard work to get great results like this.
However, long pants and work boots are a must in a shop always.
Shop work is not at a summer barbecue or a trip to the beach.
Think safety and exposure to chemicals etc. You only have one you!
I wonder what todays truck frames will look like in 63 years? Somehow I doubt they'll be anywhere near this nice! That's good old AMERICAN steel.
Enjoyed the view, showing an average Joe with the bare basic tools performing a great job and enjoying the project...Eastwood is surely a company that is DIY friendly with tech support and easy to use products. Thanks again for the video and looking forward to more progress
I love your videos, keep them coming! I don't know anything about restoring an old car or truck so I appreciate all the little details in your tutorials (equipment, sprays and products you use, etc).
Totally freaked out by sandblasting. Happy to see this process is totally legit.
Very nice!!
Thanks for letting us know how much rust encapsulation you used. Would also be great if you can share quantity of other materials used. And, especially, how many hours of labor did it take you to do this frame restoration project?
I enjoy doing projects like these but find I’m always underestimating the materials and time to complete...
Hey bro you were very very educational towards what I am doing so forget the naysayers I give you thumbs up 10 times all the way brother keep doing what you're doing I'm enjoying watching so thumbs up from me my friend you're excellent at what you do brother
That’s really kind bro, thank you!
Yeah I think you're awesome bro I'm trying to Fix a frame that I bought which is a 86 El Camino frame and I want to be able to painted Chrome and make it look nice under the bottom so I definitely needed your help and your video is awesome bro thank you for that
Nicely done. That is exactly how i'd do it if I had somewhere to do it. I've got a few projects waiting for a shop to get built. Hopefully 2021 will be the year. Smart move using the silver chassis paint. Makes it easy to see if you miss any spots with the black top coat. I plan on using the Eastwood products when I get around to doing the frames on my squarebodies. I May even do the frame on my 57 Two-Ten but not sure yet as it's a little too nice to tear apart just yet.
Thanks brother. Good luck with yours. Get that shop off the ground ASAP. You only live once
You did a good job it looks great! I like the yellow cab hanging in the back. Wish new trucks were that cool.
I know this truck. I’m looking forward to watching this project through.
Yes sir. More to come
Wow that turned out excellent!! I am doing a 1999 Ford Ranger xlt 4x4 right now and I am right outside of Philadelphia.
Nice job, very thorough. I'm getting inspired to do my '55 chevy frame. My first frame off. Got a rolling frame looking at me. With winter coming, admiring your garage space too. Thanks
Did you get it on the road yet?
nice work on the frame. I have two truck projects plus two car, which might go half and half original stock to some modifications. I have enjoyed many interests which started with cars. Hope to see more of your projects. I will review your past videos.
Enjoy Hector!
Nice job! Looking to use the same product on my F-350 frame. Curious how the finish was after brush coating the platinum paint.. Did it leave any brush stroke imprints or did it sort of self level and come out as a smooth finish when dried? If not, would you suggest using a spray gun instead of brushing for a smooth finish look?
To be honest it’s a little brush strokey
New subscriber here, I started working on my late Dad's 1971 Chevrolet C-10. There's some rust on the frame but mostly on the rear half of the truck frame, glad I found this video and now know what to do. Keep up with the cool Videos 👍🇺🇸..
Makes me wish I had a shop big enough to do a frame off resto. But for now I have to fake it. Doing the best I can for now. Looking awesome! Subbed and following along. Glad this showed up in my feed! Keep up the good work. Remember us little guys when you hit 100k subs. 😜🙌🏼
Hey man good job,
I used to do a lot of this stuff and Really enjoyed it. But if I may suggest, Cleaning, scraping, wire brushing, scratching and picking is a lot of hard work. See if there is a place where you can take the frame to have it dipped in hydrochloric acid. They will let it sit there for about 6 to 8 hours and it will eat off all the rust and paint. I used to spend days on one frame Until my hands hurt so bad I couldn’t stand it. Once you get it back from the dipping process all you have to do is clean it 👍. 2) Don’t buy the pre-. Load up a paint gun with lacquer thinner and use a nylon brush while increasing the pressure. It’s cheaper and more effective. Just make sure you open up the overhead doors and use a charcoal mask. Eastwood make some good finish paint and the 2K is excellent. I used a ton of it. If you’re able, invest in a Little compressor and a spraygun. It will cut your time down 70% And material about 20%. The press encapsulator you used from Eastwood with the flexible tube is excellent. Tip: Cut a wire hanger and tape it to the tube… Gives you more control. 👍. These are just some time saving tips. Excellent job. Looks great
That frame was almost perfect to begin with
I did not read all the comments but I am surprised you did not use a frame rotisserie to do the work. Very nice work. This is my fist visit. Happy Holiday
It’s really interesting how a truck frame from the 50’s is so solid and the frame on my 96 Silverado is literally flaking apart. It’s so bad that a had to have 2 cracks in the Chanel repairs with diamond plate and 1/4” steel on both sides of the frame by the front spring eyes.
But I do like Eastwood’s products and may try them out on a 79 trans am frame I’ll be restoring.
Yeah they are great. Worth a shot, you’ll be glad you did
Its not from the northeast that much is certain.
Dave maybe you can work in some beer reviews during intermissions. It’s a win win.
Diggin’ all your restorations from the early hand tools and man cabin to this power wagon. Next time I’m in your hood I’ll stop by and check out the projects. Stay safe.
Nice job, I went with their middle of the road encapsulator about 8months ago and not entirely happy with the outcome, have you noticed any small bit of rust/oxidation coming through? I did alot of the same steps in the video and also did two coats of each product and feel like it should have last alot longer.. may gas tank skid is where I noticed it most. Maybe I should have used the 2k instead of the chassis black, hope to see updates, awesome looking frame brother!
Thanks Adam. Can’t give a down range report yet as it’s still been indoors the whole time. No issues noted yet
I used the Eastwood black encapsulator on my 95 Chevy truck frame. Have the same problem with rust coming back though it. And frame has been mostly stored in my garage.
@@nineten123 yeah, I think I'm going back to self etching primer at this point... I live in Chicago and we have yet to have snow/salt.
I have to say, you are a hard worker and don't mind doing the hard stuff. Well done, good ethics!!
I like the shop, looks like an old bootleg hide-out from the old Capone days.
Haha. 1924 built. Probably was
RE:Michael Carron. Yeah, I was thinking same thing. Neat looking!
Michael, Shhhh don't tell anybody, the vaults in the back! Ha Ha
@@bebo5558 Look at the brickwork, any changes in the mortar or bricks? That's the Vault. I would appreciate a finders fee for the loot. Lol
Looks like Philadelphia
Looks like in exceptionally good shape especially for a 1958 Dodge.
This is one of the best frame restoration videos I’ve seen!, I subscribe to your channel!
Welcome brother!
Good job man, I'm Saudi and I'm watching you to learn. continue
Thanks my friend!
Wow Dave! Looks like an epic couple of days! The first day seemed to be a long one. Definitely, Great results 👍 Frame looks factory fresh.
Love your videos, entertaining, informative; and well done! Look forward to all of them!
Thanks Paul, I shot this over two days and yes, day one was intense! More on the way sir.
I admit it, I'm lazy, I would've rented a dustless blaster from Sunbelt for $600 a day instead of the wire wheel. You're a better man than I to do it that way.
Great workspace, how did you get that?
I found it and bought it cheap before the neighborhood turned around
You are very meticulous and detail oriented. I would never have the drive to do all of this. 👍🏻😁
Haha. Those words have never been used to describe me before. Thanks hahaha
@@partsandresto you’re welcome. You’re definitely a hard worker that does great work!
This was a nice video to watch. I'm in my shop by myself and watching you do exactly what I have done. I can relate to all the frame challenges. Good luck with your builds!
Thanks Scott!! Glad you liked!
This is the first video of yours I have seen. Subscribed. I'm going to do the same to my '93 Chevy C3500 crew cab long bed so when I am gone, my 3 year old (currently) son will have this 21+ foot long beast to call his own.
So cool. Great project idea, keep it in the familu
Wish you were near by, I would enjoy helping. Would make a nice practice run for Dad's 53 B3PW sitting in my yard.
Yeah this is exactly the kind of project where I'd happily help for free
Having lots of blasting and painting experience I've never come across a product that can be applied over rust that doesn't make things worse long term that said paint products are evolving hope it works out good effort
Subscribed ! Fantastic video, what’s the music that you’re playing sounds really cool. Great work mate. 👍
Hmm, music should be in the description. Welcome aboard.
Hello Dave. New subscriber here, enjoyed this one will check out your others. My sons and I doing body-off frame restoration (or maybe more correctly renovation) on our 1946 CJ-2a Jeep. Woo ee, you are right.... quite a job, much more rust than on your Power Wagon frame however. We are doing a little different because of all the rust, and because this old gal has a WWII MB Jeep frame "'upgraded" for the civilian market (steel straps tack and stick welded to the top and bottom of the frame giving more places for rust to hide. So after scraping off the REALLY old grease and what chunks we could otherwise get loose (a gasket scraper served us well), we used a needle scaler to get most of the rust scale off along with the fossilized grease. we used a Harbor Freight "Professional model" and it was both a reasonable cost and did as intended. Next used a sand blaster with glass-bead medium which also did a good job, mostly ran at 110 psi that really knocked out the pitted areas, and will use a wire wheel where needed as the last step as you did. Not familiar with the Eastwood products but will look into that. We've been using Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer (red one) and applied with our touch up spray gun, also works well for those hidden nooks and cranies. Really liked the rattle can with primer discharged from a tube that you demoed... handy indeed! Another thing... we have a number of impossible-to-get-to captured nuts so if you run across this, just run a tap through them... will save time later, I promise. We will continue to learn from your experiences. Thank you.
Richard, Mike and Mark W
Utah
When you painted subscribe ok n the frame I subscribed . Looking forward to seeing this build and the rest of the channel
Deep dive my friend. Welcome aboard 😂
Your one tough workin dude, you saw to it and completed it and showed that frame who’s boss! Glad to see you with a respirator on for the two part spray bomb, let’s see some more of your stuff! Take care
Jump on Instagram @partsandrestoration
And thank you!
I lost it when you walked through barefoot 😂
Mission accomplished
Me too. Shorts are bad enough.
I use a lot of Eastwood products as well. I find the tube that comes with the internal frame coat horrible. Especially for fully boxed frames. But it can never get it point where I need it.
So I remove the tip and throw away the cheap tubing. I use the brass capillary tube, made for mechanical oil pressure gauges. Just use a nice snug rubber hose for attaching to the can end. And solder the spray tip to the tube.
Now you have a hose that will reach anywhere you want and can hold its shape to get into tight corners and such.
Started breaking a truck down today. Strange how big brother put this in my feed.
Haha. Welcome to 2020, that’s how they get ya
They listen using our phone be aware of what we discuss around it.
@@udkiannarajrajathinagaran4463 no doubt. I'm ready to go back to a campbells can and some string.
Love the level of humor and chill in this video. The pressure washing part had me cackling for a while
Not happy about that flappy coat when using the angle wire-wheel.
Great project though superb job 👍🏻🇷🇴🇬🇧
Haha. Yeah it was a bad idea. Had an incident, didn’t die, but I pooped a littlw
Nice to see a fresh website with a lot of pro tips!
Well this frame looked rust free to start with, try 15 years in Michigan.
No thanks!
I can relate I was born in Ann arbor Michigan and raised in Ypsilanti
Born and raised in Jackson, MI.. Work in Ann Arbor and Ypsilanti.. LU 252 master Electrician..
RE:william reid. Yeah, that frame looked pretty darn good compared to my 92 GMC from the "rust belt", Michigan, USA.
Downriver Michigan sucks for frames too😖
Tub-0-Towels should be proud ! Awesome &informative..👍
I wish frames were coated like this straight from the factory
You’d think they would be!
3 bangers in here too, I love the music haha
This man is a gluten for punishment. I envy his ability to stick with an long and boring task to achieve an excellent result.
Get a respirator so we can keep you around longer. That's a great shop. Can't wait to see the finished work!
Wow I thought I did good painting a oil pan.
Fantastic job
I bet you did brother! Keep after it, and thanks!!
Hydro blast would have taken that frame right to the ready to paint stage in about 2hrs. They come to you, look into it. Maybe for the next project.👍 Great job on the frame!
Thanks Jim. Good ide
@@partsandresto As I get older I start to realize that the one thing I can never get back is my time. So I tend to contract out undesirable task. 🤣
Get you a spray can handle thingy from parts or hardware store so you can hold it like a spray gun. Man that kills my finger pushing the button down for long periods. Good job.
The music makes me feel like I’m on hold with my mortgage company
I had an old boss who would get on the phone with her mortgage company at work. I'd hear her in her office basically begging them not to foreclose 😥 it's no joke out there, take care everyone
@@reallyhappenings5597 well I was referring to the music being overwhelming generic 😂 but to address your comment...she must have had a shitty lender 🤷🏼♂️ my lender takes whatever you can afford and defers the balance to the end of the term...thankfully I haven’t had to use this option yet...For now I still make a good income but I know many are only a paycheck away from absolute ruin 😔 all over the common cold too 🤔
great work Sir you did well excellent workmanship.. cheers NZ
A lot of work but well worth preserving the build!
That’s it brother!
I'm not a big fan of the cutesy stuff (magical changing clothes) but overall for a basic restoration with minimal tools and equipment, extremely well done. When I was doing restorations I never used Eastwood products to any degree (since they weren't there) hopefully these products will hold up over the long run.... Subscribed
When one is broke, you use what you have.
Thats total dedication n pride to what u do
Dude! you REALLY need a 3M respirator when using that spray paint, especialy the 2K types.
I’ve since learned. Never again
And I thought you just "send it out" and it comes back blasted and painted 24 hours later!! Nice job. And the DPCD bolts... how many people know what it stands for?