Finally gathered the courage to do this big job lol, wow! A lot of work but well worth it in the end, new bearing is spinning very smoothly, no noises at all. Almost bent the spindle plate in the process, hopefully the ABS sensor will read the tone wheel ok now.. Word of advice if you are attempting this job: Do make sure you have all the proper tools to press in/out the old/new bearings, spend an extra $40-$50 on a set of eBay bearings removal kit(one that has many tools to help you with the job, it makes all the difference. The spindle plate is strong but it’s not designed to hold a press weight as support to press in/out the bearing. I do not recommend putting any stress whatsoever anywhere around the plate. Put stress only on the spindle, otherwise you might end up with a bent plate and a crooked ABS sensor hole. Also changed the brake wheel cylinder. I’ll bleed the brakes tomorrow and will install new OEM shoes as well, good for another 100K miles hopefully. I kept going back to the footage through out the process. Thanks again for the video Robert!
We changed the rear wheel bearings on my 2005 Outback last night. I ordered a pair of wheel hubs that already had the new bearings pressed in, and the job ended up being even easier than I anticipated. On the 2005, we didn't need to do any of the suspension disassembly to change out the hubs. Driver's side was definitely bad. Thanks for the extremely helpful videos!
Something of note: You should assemble all the control arm and link fasters "finger tight", jack up the suspension so its carrying its "ride height load" and then fully tighten all those fasteners. Giving them the full ugga-duggas at full droop will lead to the bushings being "wound" up at ride height and they may be damaged.
Thank you so much! We have a 2003 Subaru Forester XS and my daughter inherited her father's 2001 Forester S (needs new engine - timing belt broke) and we are having fun bonding and getting greasy! LOL Your videos and tips have been a godsend!
Best video out there, made me understand where I made my mistake installing the drive seal incorrectly, the correct way if to press tue seal in so that it looks upside down. otherwise when you go and tighten the cv nut at the end of the job the wheel turns really stiffly.
Thanks so much for this video i wanted to see if this was possible for me to do but this looks like a job for my son ,he is a far better mechanic than I am thanks again .
Yup. I’m currently doing mine and cannot get the bolt out that holds the knuckle and lateral arms. Air hammer, big hammer, nothing. Thought it was going well for a second but now I’m fubared
Rob, Just caught this one… I have become used to you giving commentary while working. 😊 At least for me….. you have always put forth sound counsel and the newest tool reviews that are just as good. Thanks as always.. Always learning. Be well friend. 👍🏼
Great video thanks, I've got to replace my rear wheel bearings and brake backing plates on my 05 impreza. Its nice to see everything before I replace them
+Devon Rose well, when you've been in the automotive repair industry essentially since you were 6 yrs old, and spent about $80k on the tool trucks, you'll get close to always having the right tool for the job. Lol
Exactly what I was needing to see!!! Awesome video wish I could afford to send something your way... I can however subscribe and like this awesome video!! Truly a blessing!!
Sorry if I sound like a total noob by asking this question, but I’m ready to do this and want to make sure I do it right the first time without breaking anything. What happens to the “plastic” black ring (seen at 10:45) located in the inner diameter of the new bearing once the hub is pressed into it from the other side? Does the plastic ring gets pushed out, stays there? What is its function?
MrSubaru1387 I see. Phew lol that’s a relief.. What’s it doing there in the first place? Is it keeping the inner bearing in one piece? I tried removing before it’s installed in the car, but it’s pretty tight in its place. Thanks for the reply Robert!
MrSubaru1387 Glad you clarified it. It’d have slowed me down trying to find out what to do with it since that part is not in the video and I thought the black ring was important since it has what looks like 4 rollers between it and the bearing. Thanks again 👍🏻
MrSubaru1387 I’m not sure if the same applies for my ‘01 Forester L, but reading its FSM, it calls for new self-locking nuts on both the lateral link and trailing link once this service has been done. Just wanted to let you know 👍🏻
Also: what is the part called that looks like a bearing sitting around the hub (red grease) at 7:25? That looks like what I'd call a bearing, but it's not coming up in the assembly kits I'm seeing online. They are just showing the cylindrical roller bearing.
Thanks again for another very well documented step by step video. Would this be the same procedure for replacing the rear wheel bearing on a 2001 Forester?
At @6:04 where did you get that round plate to support the knuckle on the press and press the hub out.. ? Ive seen the common flat arbor plates being stood upright to keep the knuckle in between method used for this which seems scary as heck.
Any idea where I can find one... homedepot not harborfreight has nothing like it. Or amazon. Or ebay. I have just been banging the hub out of the bearing with a hammer.
Very nice and helpful video. Thank you so much. Guided me through my 2003 forester real bearing replacement. One question though at 13:31 the outer inner seal orientation. Should it be the other way around? Oh, I am back to answer my question, the way show in your video is still right.:-) I went changed my installation,:-) Thanks again.
Awesome channel! Thanks for all the videos. Need to change lots of stuff on my 2009 Legacy. Car repair shops are insanely overpriced. Will try to do all by myself.
There is another video from someone else. They took the upper lose and left the long bolt in tact. But at the same time, I think there is some replaceable rubber parts that if you don't take the lower apart, you cannot change.
where can I get one of those metal bowl like things u used to drop the hub into at around 6:38 in the video? even if you have one and take paypal as payment I would purchase one from you... thanks
love your videos, have learned a lot. i have a 2015 forester 150000 miles and want to replace the rear hub assy. where is the cheapest place to buy genuine subaru parts? dealerships or someother place.? thanks alot.
Some of this is funny. I just did the same job on my 2006 WRX. 300k Michigan miles. My lateral link bolt was froze to the bushing. My wheel speed sensor...I reefed on it, no movement. The shop that pressed bearing got it out, but broke the housing of sensor down in the hole. I can see copper windings inside the old sensor. They thought it was welded in place. I told them no, just the original.
I had to replace the sensor when I did my rear. But I got a good price on it. Spent 45 on a part that is normally over 140 new. Thank god for clearances. I had to punch that old sensor out with a hammer. Good news, my ABS code was already for that sensor before I fixed the bearing.
Do you have a list of all the different sized press parts you have? I.e. the different diameters of the press pieces you used for the inner seal, outer seal, hub... etc. I saw one on there was 7/8". My thinking is, once I get the shop press (not insanely expensive) I'm going to need the other pieces (and the metal support you put everything on) to do the job properly, but once I've got all that, it should be fairly straightforward and ultimately a lot cheaper than what they're asking at the shop ($1500!).
Nice video, very helpful. How did you diagnose the faulty bearing? Also noticed how easy the lateral link bolt came out. I've not been as lucky. Any suggestions on how to remove when they seize in the bushing? Thanks
+Robert Ferraro I've got another video in the works on the diagnosis of the bad bearings. Basically I had someone else drive as I moved around inside the car and listened to all four corners to narrow down where the sound of the bad bearing was coming from. Yea, luckily a southern car, so not much rust at all. Soak it down in WD-40 and heat it up with a torch. Other than that I have had to cut them out and replace them before.
another great video to guide me on my next repair job ('05 Forester). so i'm thinking of buying a new press with 6-ton capacity. would that be enough or should i get the 12-tonner? both are available from harbor freight. thanks
That's should be adequate. 05 Forester may have bolt in wheel bearings. I k ow the Legacy/Outback switched over in 05. The Forester might not have until 09 though. Can't recall.
question how do you remove the lateral Bolt you tried everything 3 foot breaker bar three-quarter inch air wrench and nothing will work gaulded in the laterals can you just buy the rubber bushings for the laterals? Would like to know how to get to Bolt out if you tried everything
Also wanted to thank you for your timing belt and water pump video, had to do an engine swap on my car a couple months back and it helped a lot for aligning the belt!
Awesome video man! I am doing this right now. I am also doing the e brake shoes, when I put the rotor back on what should be looking for as far as resistance when adjusting the e brake shoes?
I see you put the whole bearing in the knuckle, then press the hub in. I see others press the inner race of the bearing onto the hub before putting it all together. Not sure if one way is better than another, but I would like to hear what people think.
Hey I installed a new bearing. It still made noise. I assumed the axle was corroded and I replaced it. When replacing the axle I noticed the grease had turned black. It looked like bearing got contaminated pretty bad. I still here a noise I'm not sure if I should replaced the whole knuckle assembly now? Or if I just need to do the bearings again. HELP
It has the symptoms of a bad bearing. Though if I make a left turn it gets even louder. Could that be anything else other than the bearing? It's not roaring it's more of a whomp whomp noise. I have new tires. If I break it gets more pronounced.
MrSubaru1387 I need your advice. My 2006 Subaru Forester has a loud clanking noise in the rear drivers side at low speeds. It's like a loud cracking noise. No humming. But random cracks and clanking noises. Steering and breaking feel great. It came out of no where
MrSubaru1387 Its rough. IDK a good mechanic and can't really afford to get work done professionally. I did replace only my front tires recently... I literally couldn't afford all four but front were showing metal strands
That's an issue. You have to replace all 4 tires at once on a Subaru. If you don't, you can damage the transmission and differentials. Different size tires turn at different speeds.
I did this the same but forgot to support the bottom brace and I noticed after I installed the hub on. I noticed it and supported it with a axle socket. I forgot to but the abs ring and had to remove the hub again. It came off like the old one. I put the abs ring back on and installed it again while supporting the bottom brace this time. I pressed it until I felt resistance on the press. I then tried to spin it and it seems like something is from letting it spin freely idk doesn’t feel right. I put it back on the car and drive about. 30 miles and get off and feel the front wheel and the rear the one that I replaced and it’s a lot warmer than the other one. Could it be that is dragging? Or it it common for new bearings?
Mr subaru i need your help. At 15.35 min your battery died and didn't show how you put the hand brake cable clip back on the back of the hub. Been trying for an hour and the little clip won't go back in. Is there a tip you can give. Thanks in advance
Mr Subaru you should get some junkyard hub assemblies and rebuild them and sell them as unit so people can just replace them with out pressing bearings out and in
@@MrSubaru1387 I've been putting off doing my rear bearings cuz it's so much work. Living Upstate New York rust a big problem up here. After my next inspection, my car is going to be 25 years old And I won't have to do admissions anymore. Just safety inspection.
@@MrSubaru1387 thanks for the response. I just ordered my rear wheel bearing kit but might take it to a mechanic instead. I'm scared of the hand brake assembly/ disassembly haha
My CV axle refuses to come off. I got everything else off but that, what can I do to remove that? I have struck that thing with just about anything in my garage and it STILL refuses to move. Any suggestions to get it off the hub?
@@MrSubaru1387 Thank you, now to note on your reply. Would heating it first and then spraying penetrating fluid on it be the best solution or should I put the fluid on first, let it soak in and then heat it up and give it a wack? Figured I'd get a nice strategy going and then see if that works the best and move on before making it worse for myself. LOL
Nice video, I noticed that the rubber sleeve on the propshaft was damaged, did You change that , while You had it all apart as well? Then a word of advise: extreme cleaniness is well invested time when installing bearings. I heard a scratching sound as though dust/ sand was in between when You inserted the bearing? Just a tiny bit of that can shorten the bearings service time immensly, but maybee it was just som strange sound in the video? Anyway very fine video,very instructive
Yeah, I noticed later when I watched the driveaxle change, the same Jack appeared. You make very instructive videos, My wife have seen some of Your videos and now want me to change a back bearing on her Forester. Never let them in the garage LOL
So I am looking to do this job soon on my 05 Forester. After looking at a bunch of videos to learn everything that needs to be done, yours has by far been the most informative. I do have one question though, when pressing in the hub into the bearing, do you support the inner race of the bearing with anything? or just press it in?Another video said it could break the inner race doing it this way... but you just proved that wrong if so.Thanks a bunch for the video!!
+TheWiscoKid I place a solid cylindrical object, the same diameter as the inner race, under it for support while pressing the hub in. A large socket should do the trick.
Awesome man, thanks for getting back to me so quick! I'm going to try knocking out 2 of these on Saturday... hopefully it goes as smooth as yours did here. Ill have to look into how rusty that long bolt is to judge.
I know what you mean. Girl at work showed me her daughters Subaru. It has the right rear totally tilted into the top of the wheel well. She said she was told it was the bearing. I hate to say it, but I bet she messed her CV joint up as well. It has the top of the tire out of camber by at least 6". No way it didn't flex that CV in a bad way at that angle... One wheel looks like a $600 job...
+marauder3058 06 forester most likely has a bolt in wheel bearing hub assembly rather than the press in. I know Legacys and Outbacks went to bolt in rears in 2000 and bolt in fronts in 05.
Hey man I follow a lot of your videos and have saved a ton of money I have a 2010 impreza do all of the wheel bearing have to be pressed back in even if you buy the whole hub with bearing assembled? Thank you for the help👍
Good video man and I'm sure that there's people who are going to find this very useful. But being a mechanic myself I have to ask you a question why do you have all snap-on tools which are great but you're outside doing it in the dirt if you can afford tools like that why aren't you in a building?
@@MrSubaru1387 absolutely investing in the best is the right thing to do I only use the best also myself. And trust me I certainly meant no disrespect at all you did a great job and a good video. And I'm glad to hear you're going to be getting your own shop next year.
@@MrSubaru1387 watch Eric O from South Main Auto in NY state.. That bolt rusts inside the bushings and takes a lot of effort and skill to remove without destroying those bushings. I laughed at how easy it was to remove without the ravages of salt.
Finally gathered the courage to do this big job lol, wow! A lot of work but well worth it in the end, new bearing is spinning very smoothly, no noises at all. Almost bent the spindle plate in the process, hopefully the ABS sensor will read the tone wheel ok now.. Word of advice if you are attempting this job: Do make sure you have all the proper tools to press in/out the old/new bearings, spend an extra $40-$50 on a set of eBay bearings removal kit(one that has many tools to help you with the job, it makes all the difference. The spindle plate is strong but it’s not designed to hold a press weight as support to press in/out the bearing. I do not recommend putting any stress whatsoever anywhere around the plate. Put stress only on the spindle, otherwise you might end up with a bent plate and a crooked ABS sensor hole. Also changed the brake wheel cylinder. I’ll bleed the brakes tomorrow and will install new OEM shoes as well, good for another 100K miles hopefully. I kept going back to the footage through out the process. Thanks again for the video Robert!
Must be nice doing this job with no rust not having to saw that long bolt and replace the bushings and bolt in the process. 😊
We changed the rear wheel bearings on my 2005 Outback last night. I ordered a pair of wheel hubs that already had the new bearings pressed in, and the job ended up being even easier than I anticipated. On the 2005, we didn't need to do any of the suspension disassembly to change out the hubs. Driver's side was definitely bad. Thanks for the extremely helpful videos!
well this obviously isnt your video lmao
Lol 05+legacy/outbacks are a bolt in bearing
Great video. simple and straight forward without the annoying music and commentary. Keep up the good work.
+warbed1 thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
Something of note: You should assemble all the control arm and link fasters "finger tight", jack up the suspension so its carrying its "ride height load" and then fully tighten all those fasteners. Giving them the full ugga-duggas at full droop will lead to the bushings being "wound" up at ride height and they may be damaged.
I can't believe how professional are you, unbelievable see you doing the job done with a beautiful wristwatch wit none a scratch.
+chrimay oh, it's plenty scratched, I assure you. It's just an old, cheap, $25 watch.
Thank you so much! We have a 2003 Subaru Forester XS and my daughter inherited her father's 2001 Forester S (needs new engine - timing belt broke) and we are having fun bonding and getting greasy! LOL Your videos and tips have been a godsend!
12:17 what part - precisely - is supported from the under side? The hub, the outer race of the bearing, or the inner race of the bearing?
Best video out there, made me understand where I made my mistake installing the drive seal incorrectly, the correct way if to press tue seal in so that it looks upside down. otherwise when you go and tighten the cv nut at the end of the job the wheel turns really stiffly.
Straight to the point... great video. No pointless gabbing.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
This video was made just in time. I have a wheel bearing going out that I need to fix soon. Great video as always!
+MotoZixxer glad I could help. 👍
Thanks so much for this video i wanted to see if this was possible for me to do but this looks like a job for my son ,he is a far better mechanic than I am thanks again .
Was able to do it myself cus of this video. Thanks! Great walkthrough. Also, having the right tools makes everything easier. 👌🏼
I wish all my bolts came out that easy
Yup. I’m currently doing mine and cannot get the bolt out that holds the knuckle and lateral arms. Air hammer, big hammer, nothing. Thought it was going well for a second but now I’m fubared
Fuck, for real!
@@timalfred8641 there's a nut on the other side to loosen.
Rob,
Just caught this one… I have become used to you giving commentary while working. 😊
At least for me….. you have always put forth sound counsel and the newest tool reviews that are just as good. Thanks as always..
Always learning. Be well friend. 👍🏼
I'd love to work on cars in the south where all the bolts come right out! LMAO no way the speed sensor comes out up here in the rust belt!
Right? What a luxury. I'm getting ready to do mine and it'll be a 2 day job with all the heat and PB soaking
You’ve helped me so much with my car man thank you for the videos.
Great video thanks, I've got to replace my rear wheel bearings and brake backing plates on my 05 impreza. Its nice to see everything before I replace them
Glad to help. 👍
Nice clean install with all of the steps included, great vid!
+Homebrew Subaru thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video.
1998 and it came apart that easy! flat rate guys must all be millionaires. Good video
+Frank Totino good ol rust free southern vehicle. Lol
must be nice having all the right tools
+Devon Rose well, when you've been in the automotive repair industry essentially since you were 6 yrs old, and spent about $80k on the tool trucks, you'll get close to always having the right tool for the job. Lol
@@MrSubaru1387 true ^_^
Exactly what I was needing to see!!! Awesome video wish I could afford to send something your way... I can however subscribe and like this awesome video!! Truly a blessing!!
Sorry if I sound like a total noob by asking this question, but I’m ready to do this and want to make sure I do it right the first time without breaking anything. What happens to the “plastic” black ring (seen at 10:45) located in the inner diameter of the new bearing once the hub is pressed into it from the other side? Does the plastic ring gets pushed out, stays there? What is its function?
It's pushed out by the hub.
MrSubaru1387 I see. Phew lol that’s a relief.. What’s it doing there in the first place? Is it keeping the inner bearing in one piece? I tried removing before it’s installed in the car, but it’s pretty tight in its place. Thanks for the reply Robert!
@@BJPr12 yes. It keeps the bearing together for transport and installation.
MrSubaru1387 Glad you clarified it. It’d have slowed me down trying to find out what to do with it since that part is not in the video and I thought the black ring was important since it has what looks like 4 rollers between it and the bearing. Thanks again 👍🏻
MrSubaru1387 I’m not sure if the same applies for my ‘01 Forester L, but reading its FSM, it calls for new self-locking nuts on both the lateral link and trailing link once this service has been done. Just wanted to let you know 👍🏻
Exactly what I want to see. Thank you sir!
Also: what is the part called that looks like a bearing sitting around the hub (red grease) at 7:25? That looks like what I'd call a bearing, but it's not coming up in the assembly kits I'm seeing online. They are just showing the cylindrical roller bearing.
Best video yet. No talking is better haha.
+Allan Mulwee glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
I'm going to do this to my Subaru impreza WRX sti on both sides thanks man great video
Thank you very much you make it look so easy! 👍
Great video, thanks!
How freely should the hub spin with the new wheel bearing?
Subaru just states 7-17 inch pounds for it to start spinning.
Really. well done and well presented. Camera work was excellent. Love the snapon tools......
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍🏻
Thanks again for another very well documented step by step video.
Would this be the same procedure for replacing the rear wheel bearing on a 2001 Forester?
Yes. 👍🏻
At @6:04 where did you get that round plate to support the knuckle on the press and press the hub out.. ? Ive seen the common flat arbor plates being stood upright to keep the knuckle in between method used for this which seems scary as heck.
It's an old piece of large diameter steel pipe that just happens to fit Subaru hubs perfectly.
Any idea where I can find one... homedepot not harborfreight has nothing like it. Or amazon. Or ebay. I have just been banging the hub out of the bearing with a hammer.
It's just some industrial pipe from a scrap bin. Maybe a welding shop or machine shop would be a better place to look.
Very nice and helpful video. Thank you so much. Guided me through my 2003 forester real bearing replacement. One question though at 13:31 the outer inner seal orientation. Should it be the other way around? Oh, I am back to answer my question, the way show in your video is still right.:-) I went changed my installation,:-) Thanks again.
Jeez. I have never had that lateral link bolt or the speed sensor come out as easily as you did, lol
Awesome channel! Thanks for all the videos. Need to change lots of stuff on my 2009 Legacy. Car repair shops are insanely overpriced. Will try to do all by myself.
+Ozat Ozat Glad I can help!
I need to do a 98 forester. Is it the same ? I did the one side years ago but I can't remember the process.
Hi mr Subaru do you ever replace bearings on the vehicle without removing the components because I live in the Northeast and everything is Rusted
There is another video from someone else. They took the upper lose and left the long bolt in tact. But at the same time, I think there is some replaceable rubber parts that if you don't take the lower apart, you cannot change.
where can I get one of those metal bowl like things u used to drop the hub into at around 6:38 in the video? even if you have one and take paypal as payment I would purchase one from you... thanks
I like the brake shoe tool that you used....what a pain in the ass it is otherwise. Thanks for the great video.
would this be the same on a 2002 impreza?
Yes.
love your videos, have learned a lot. i have a 2015 forester 150000 miles and want to replace the rear hub assy. where is the cheapest place to buy genuine subaru parts? dealerships or someother place.? thanks alot.
Big thank you my brother 👍👍
Very good, was quite useful.
Some of this is funny.
I just did the same job on my 2006 WRX. 300k Michigan miles.
My lateral link bolt was froze to the bushing.
My wheel speed sensor...I reefed on it, no movement.
The shop that pressed bearing got it out, but broke the housing of sensor down in the hole.
I can see copper windings inside the old sensor.
They thought it was welded in place. I told them no, just the original.
I had to replace the sensor when I did my rear. But I got a good price on it. Spent 45 on a part that is normally over 140 new. Thank god for clearances. I had to punch that old sensor out with a hammer. Good news, my ABS code was already for that sensor before I fixed the bearing.
The front the same as the back basically? Did the back now need to do the front
Do you have a list of all the different sized press parts you have? I.e. the different diameters of the press pieces you used for the inner seal, outer seal, hub... etc. I saw one on there was 7/8". My thinking is, once I get the shop press (not insanely expensive) I'm going to need the other pieces (and the metal support you put everything on) to do the job properly, but once I've got all that, it should be fairly straightforward and ultimately a lot cheaper than what they're asking at the shop ($1500!).
Nice video, very helpful. How did you diagnose the faulty bearing? Also noticed how easy the lateral link bolt came out. I've not been as lucky.
Any suggestions on how to remove when they seize in the bushing?
Thanks
+Robert Ferraro I've got another video in the works on the diagnosis of the bad bearings. Basically I had someone else drive as I moved around inside the car and listened to all four corners to narrow down where the sound of the bad bearing was coming from.
Yea, luckily a southern car, so not much rust at all. Soak it down in WD-40 and heat it up with a torch. Other than that I have had to cut them out and replace them before.
no rust piece off cake good job . does the brg has one magnetic size for the abs.
+jjmtzama yea, it's not bad at all when you have a fairly rust free southern car to work on. What was that about the ABS?
MrSubaru1387 some bearing has magnet on the abs sensor size I think subaru is one off them
+jjmtzama yes. Nearly all ABS sensors are magnetic pick-ups
another great video to guide me on my next repair job ('05 Forester). so i'm thinking of buying a new press with 6-ton capacity. would that be enough or should i get the 12-tonner? both are available from harbor freight. thanks
That's should be adequate. 05 Forester may have bolt in wheel bearings. I k ow the Legacy/Outback switched over in 05. The Forester might not have until 09 though. Can't recall.
question how do you remove the lateral Bolt you tried everything 3 foot breaker bar three-quarter inch air wrench and nothing will work gaulded in the laterals can you just buy the rubber bushings for the laterals? Would like to know how to get to Bolt out if you tried everything
I have a 1996 legacy and I was wondering if the front and rear bearing and hub assemblies are the same?
Yes. Same procedure /construction. The actaull wheel bearing and is a different p/n front to back though.
Great video, thanks for sharing. Cheers
You're welcome 👍🏻
Just out of curiosity, does this also apply to an 06 Impreza 2.5i? Also, how long should this take?
Also wanted to thank you for your timing belt and water pump video, had to do an engine swap on my car a couple months back and it helped a lot for aligning the belt!
Yes, 06 Impreza was still a press in bearing.
Thanks! I'll be doing it before too long...
Awesome video man! I am doing this right now. I am also doing the e brake shoes, when I put the rotor back on what should be looking for as far as resistance when adjusting the e brake shoes?
+Djversatile15 shouldn't have any drag turning, but hub should lock securely when parking brake is applied.
MrSubaru1387 Thanks dude!
Welcome.
It is on such films waiting :). Great watched.
+wars1977 glad you enjoyed the video
Did I miss something? What happened to the outer race and seal?
I see you put the whole bearing in the knuckle, then press the hub in. I see others press the inner race of the bearing onto the hub before putting it all together. Not sure if one way is better than another, but I would like to hear what people think.
Hey I installed a new bearing. It still made noise. I assumed the axle was corroded and I replaced it. When replacing the axle I noticed the grease had turned black. It looked like bearing got contaminated pretty bad. I still here a noise I'm not sure if I should replaced the whole knuckle assembly now? Or if I just need to do the bearings again. HELP
Also the old bearing looked burnt. It had a black burn mark in the middle. So I'm thinking the knuckle needs replacing.
Did you replace the hub with the bearing?
@@MrSubaru1387 yes I pressed it in myself
Brand new
It has the symptoms of a bad bearing. Though if I make a left turn it gets even louder. Could that be anything else other than the bearing? It's not roaring it's more of a whomp whomp noise. I have new tires. If I break it gets more pronounced.
can't afford official subaru wheel bearings right now..... are SKF and Timkin any good?
SKF is the best. Sweedish made, in a world leading factory.
MrSubaru1387 I need your advice. My 2006 Subaru Forester has a loud clanking noise in the rear drivers side at low speeds. It's like a loud cracking noise. No humming. But random cracks and clanking noises. Steering and breaking feel great. It came out of no where
Might be a failed cv axle or wheel bearing. I'd look at it asap if I were you.
MrSubaru1387
Its rough. IDK a good mechanic and can't really afford to get work done professionally. I did replace only my front tires recently... I literally couldn't afford all four but front were showing metal strands
That's an issue. You have to replace all 4 tires at once on a Subaru. If you don't, you can damage the transmission and differentials. Different size tires turn at different speeds.
I did this the same but forgot to support the bottom brace and I noticed after I installed the hub on. I noticed it and supported it with a axle socket. I forgot to but the abs ring and had to remove the hub again. It came off like the old one. I put the abs ring back on and installed it again while supporting the bottom brace this time. I pressed it until I felt resistance on the press. I then tried to spin it and it seems like something is from letting it spin freely idk doesn’t feel right. I put it back on the car and drive about. 30 miles and get off and feel the front wheel and the rear the one that I replaced and it’s a lot warmer than the other one. Could it be that is dragging? Or it it common for new bearings?
Could be drag, could also be from the front brakes being larger and generating more heat. Hard to say.
Mr subaru i need your help. At 15.35 min your battery died and didn't show how you put the hand brake cable clip back on the back of the hub. Been trying for an hour and the little clip won't go back in. Is there a tip you can give. Thanks in advance
There's no big trick to it, just make sure the cable is fully seated in the hole and that the groove aligns with the clip slot.
MrSubaru1387 thanks for getting back, i guess i just have to be more patient and give it another try!!!
Do these bearings come prepacked with grease?
+GreasePanda yes.
Where are you? In on the west coast you look a little further inland!
Upstate South Carolina. Haha .
Mr Subaru you should get some junkyard hub assemblies and rebuild them and sell them as unit so people can just replace them with out pressing bearings out and in
That wouldn't work. Or you mean complete with the spindle?
@@MrSubaru1387 complete spindle like an R&R
@@MrSubaru1387 I've been putting off doing my rear bearings cuz it's so much work. Living Upstate New York rust a big problem up here. After my next inspection, my car is going to be 25 years old And I won't have to do admissions anymore. Just safety inspection.
is it possible to do this without an air tool or should i just take it to a mechanic?
It can be done with all hand tools. Longer and harder, but possible.
@@MrSubaru1387 thanks for the response. I just ordered my rear wheel bearing kit but might take it to a mechanic instead. I'm scared of the hand brake assembly/ disassembly haha
My CV axle refuses to come off. I got everything else off but that, what can I do to remove that?
I have struck that thing with just about anything in my garage and it STILL refuses to move. Any suggestions to get it off the hub?
Penetrating fluid and heat is where I'd go next. Especially since you'll be replacing the wheel bearing and the heat in the bearing won't matter.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thank you, now to note on your reply.
Would heating it first and then spraying penetrating fluid on it be the best solution or should I put the fluid on first, let it soak in and then heat it up and give it a wack?
Figured I'd get a nice strategy going and then see if that works the best and move on before making it worse for myself. LOL
Probably going to need a combo of both. Several times. Haha. I've done both.
I LIKE THE WAY DO NOT HARD TO FOLLOW KEEP MORE VIDEOS, I AM LEARNING FROM YOU..
Nice video, I noticed that the rubber sleeve on the propshaft was damaged, did You change that , while You had it all apart as well? Then a word of advise: extreme cleaniness is well invested time when installing bearings. I heard a scratching sound as though dust/ sand was in between when You inserted the bearing? Just a tiny bit of that can shorten the bearings service time immensly, but maybee it was just som strange sound in the video? Anyway very fine video,very instructive
+bergatube60 combination of old and new footage. Teardown footage was from the cv axle replacement video.
Yeah, I noticed later when I watched the driveaxle change, the same Jack appeared. You make very instructive videos, My wife have seen some of Your videos and now want me to change a back bearing on her Forester.
Never let them in the garage LOL
+bergatube60 hahaha oops.
7:00 I never got why tone rings were separate parts instead of molded into the hub assembly.
maybe its a different metal? or a different manufacture process
So I am looking to do this job soon on my 05 Forester. After looking at a bunch of videos to learn everything that needs to be done, yours has by far been the most informative. I do have one question though, when pressing in the hub into the bearing, do you support the inner race of the bearing with anything? or just press it in?Another video said it could break the inner race doing it this way... but you just proved that wrong if so.Thanks a bunch for the video!!
+TheWiscoKid I place a solid cylindrical object, the same diameter as the inner race, under it for support while pressing the hub in. A large socket should do the trick.
Awesome! Thanks for replying so quick. This has been a great help man. Hopefully it goes as smooth as this when I get into it.
Awesome man, thanks for getting back to me so quick! I'm going to try knocking out 2 of these on Saturday... hopefully it goes as smooth as yours did here. Ill have to look into how rusty that long bolt is to judge.
+TheWiscoKid good luck!
Is this relatively the same process on a 2002 Forester?
+Warren Marshall maybe... I think the 02 is a bolt in bearing assembly instead. Can't remember which year they changed over to the new style.
Great video. Looks like I have to go to the dealer unfortunately. Thanks....
You're welcome 👍🏻
I know what you mean. Girl at work showed me her daughters Subaru. It has the right rear totally tilted into the top of the wheel well. She said she was told it was the bearing. I hate to say it, but I bet she messed her CV joint up as well. It has the top of the tire out of camber by at least 6". No way it didn't flex that CV in a bad way at that angle... One wheel looks like a $600 job...
Great vid
Just curious, what torque do you use for the lug nuts?
+David Mulder spec is around the 80 ft lbs range I believe. Personally I got to 95 ft.lbs. Never given me an issues, no warped rotors.
MrSubaru1387 OK cool, just curious mostly, I usually use around 80.
So you didn't reinstall a taper bearing assembly as well. Updated design?
+marauder3058 it's a "sealed" bearing assembly on install. To remove it, you have to break it up. It's a double taper with a shared center race.
MrSubaru1387 awesome! Getting ready to do this on a 06 forester. Just making sure I know what's going on.
+marauder3058 06 forester most likely has a bolt in wheel bearing hub assembly rather than the press in. I know Legacys and Outbacks went to bolt in rears in 2000 and bolt in fronts in 05.
MrSubaru1387 I honestly haven't even looked of it is. Every parts place I looked listed the press in type for replacement.
+marauder3058 ah. I can't recall myself. Maybe the Forester was behind the Legacy /Outbacks.
Hey man I follow a lot of your videos and have saved a ton of money I have a 2010 impreza do all of the wheel bearing have to be pressed back in even if you buy the whole hub with bearing assembled? Thank you for the help👍
The 2010 should have a bolt in wheel bearing/hub assembly. No press required. Subaru moved away from press in bearings around 05-07.
Good video man and I'm sure that there's people who are going to find this very useful. But being a mechanic myself I have to ask you a question why do you have all snap-on tools which are great but you're outside doing it in the dirt if you can afford tools like that why aren't you in a building?
Investing in tools, I invest in the best. I do have plans to begin construction of a new shop at the house some time in 2019 though.
@@MrSubaru1387 absolutely investing in the best is the right thing to do I only use the best also myself. And trust me I certainly meant no disrespect at all you did a great job and a good video. And I'm glad to hear you're going to be getting your own shop next year.
Great jobThanks
You're welcome. 👍
I need torque specs for the axle nut on a 01 OBL 2.5 Thanks in advance
Front 216Nm or 159Ft.Lbs. Rear 235Nm or 174Ft.Lbs.
Good lookin out @@MrSubaru1387
thank you very much
Wow so much work for a car that’s not worth jack to me lol just gonna get spindle assemblies from the junkyard and hope the bearings are good
Very interesting.
Wòw.... how the hell did that spinal bolt come out....
that looks like it went very well u should work on one up here and the northest u will have ya work cut out for ya lol
You know a little film of grease and pressing parts goes much smoother.
What's the fair price for mechanic to charge for this job I did both sides and I got charged $700 in just for labor
How this break spring tool is called?
+Michal Domanski Snap-on - BT12 and BT17A
I'll not whine about labor costs anymore.
Get an OTC hub grappler
You sure have good tools
If I was closer I would pour you a driveway so didn't have to work in the gravel...
One of these days I'll throw down a concrete pad and a nice shop to match. Been saying that for about 10 years now though.. Haha.
Thanks...
Am I the only one noticed that the axle shaft in the beginning of the video was totally torn and all of a sudden there’s a brand new one in?
Filmed an axle video at the same time.
I like u video bro
Thank you. 👍🏻
Lol.. Obviously this isn't rust country. I want to see you get that long bolt out on jack stands in the North East.
Cut it in the center of the spindle, air hammer the halves out.
@@MrSubaru1387 watch Eric O from South Main Auto in NY state.. That bolt rusts inside the bushings and takes a lot of effort and skill to remove without destroying those bushings. I laughed at how easy it was to remove without the ravages of salt.
I'm well aware. I'm not far from the NC mountains. Worked on plenty of rust bucket Subarus.
Why does my out back go thunka thunka thunka when I turn
I live in Ct that plastic abs sensor would never make it out in one piece.
Perdóname pero al armar todas las piezas se lubrican.
I have a 99 that long bolt no way in NH even rear ex was frozen in hub
My out back goes thunka thunka thunka when I turn