Good video and advice apart from one thing. With grease, the more the merrier is incorrect. I was informed years ago by a bearing manufacturer that over greasing was the most common reason for premature failure as it can lead to localised overheating. Other than that, good, to the point video.
@@idonotwantahandle2 I've also heard this from professional mechanics. The extra grease has nowhere to go and thus create unnecessary pressure and churning which could damage the seals. At some point the grease could prevent smooth rolling. I could not believe it at first but I checked out some old bearings and yes some of them are full of grease but the bearing is stuck or hardly rolls.
Thought it may be worth noting that my 30 year old DD still has all its original wheel bearings. 250k on original bearings suggests I am not doing something wrong.
Just finished a similar job on my Forester - I used the press kit you have & with the right size disc found it very good at pulling the seals into place without needing to hammer them home.
I just purchased a full size traditional press and it worked perfectly on my 2011 Toyota Venza AWD front passenger bearing replacement. Thanks for your video
The details makes the difference between total failure or total success Thank you so very much for doing and going the extra mile instead half as like 95% of youtubers these days
I liked the video. I just installed rear wheel bearings on my 84 Porsche, and When I checked the play I was horrified. I almost took them off thinking i damaged them installing them. THEN I remembered the hub nut gets tightened to 300 NM and after that it was rock solid no play!
Holy moly! You have made a difficult-looking task look MUCH easier to perform. The fact you convinced me to get the proper tools for the future, made me a subscriber! Thank you so much!
That's what I like about my 09 fxt...all bolt on easy peasy hubs. My 94 impreza on the other hand, tiny press type bearings. 😂 Luckily I've had one of those press sets for probably 15 years. Definitely the best way for driveway bearing replacement. 👏
I’m only halfway through this video and my mind is already made up. It’s absolutely Great. Your explanations and the filming are just brilliant. You explain the pros and cons. Just Amazing. You’ve got my subscription. Thank you for posting. Regards, Joe.
I purchased a fwd wheel bearing installer/removal tool just like yours along with a Harbor Freight/Pittsburgh Steel 20 ton press. I swear by that cup & disk set for all press in bearings! The biggest thing with all forcing screw type of tools is, Lubricate the forcing screw! Clean the inner race & all mating surfaces to clean shiny metal & use brake clean then grease or antiseize before bearing installation.
I agree. I only use the forcing screw method now too. Much better, faster, and if i can get the CV-axle removed without disturbing any alignment specific fasteners or connections, the bearing replacement process doesn't change the current alignment settings 😀
Thank you for this video I used it to learn how to use these tools and save me over 600 dollars on one job! The work was brutal but everything turned out so ty ty ty good sir!
This is how a video should be done, great work! Ive never done this before but now I have confidence to do it by watching your video. You were very thorough in your explanation, thanks.
Really well done, I paused and replayed this one a few times. We don't see this kind of detail with sealed bearings, it was eye opening to see how these old style open bearings come apart. Good point about no grease on the outside of the races during installation. Although it might be tempting to use antiseize, you don't want that getting into the bearing surfaces. I understand your point, they are better left dry, they are supposed to seize a little on each side. I've heard remarks about taking care around speed sensors, when would you try to take the sensor out before doing the bearing?
Thanks! I really appreciate that. The speed sensor should always be removed before repair. The particular Subaru I was working on had a very short sensor that didn’t protrude enough to need removal. But if the sensor is there it’s always best to remove if you can to avoid damage while working in and around that hub area. I’m glad you like the detail of the video! A lot of effort went into making that video. It’s a hard video to capture and also a difficult job compared to a bolt in bearing. Totally doable. But with both videoing and working it was a lot or organization. Thanks for checking that one out! 😀
this "way of doing it" works most of the time and is great for "driveway mechanics". Been a tech four decades, for the past three and half decades I have ALWAYS used a press (as an apprentice the shop I worked in had a setup similar to this tool). I have repaired SOOO many bearings that were just done using this tool, all because the bearing was NOT seated 100%. Then there is the stubborn wheel bearings. I have a 40 ton press and have seen some wheel bearings take all 40 tons to unseat... and yes it makes one hell of a BANG when they let go. This is not a criticism, just an FYI moment. Great job on the vid
Thanks for the tip! I have had no seating issues so far on all vehicle bearings with the tool including larger bearings like Toyota trucks. The clamping pressure of the tool is significant. The 3/4" bolt and torque of the fastener could be calculated, it would be pretty high. The feel of the bolt pressing in the bearing is very similar to a press. When the bearing stops- IT STOPS. Generally speaking interference parts like wheel bearings can be handled with a tool like this no problem. I was skeptical at first also. The press and this tool both press bearings together and are both useful. It is user preference. As far as bearings coming back for another repair, I only see that with mid grade and cheap bearings. High quality bearings have never been an issue for me 😃🔧
I've had a couple vehicles where bolts were seized into sleeves and removing the knuckle from the vehicle would incur extra expense that the customer wasn't ready for i.e. rear knuckle of an '08 Escape comes to mind. Several linkages that meant torch time and melting bushings. This type of on-vehicle press makes my life easier and saves the customer money. Agreed that there are some that require full shop press force and there's no avoiding the expense that's coming.
1998 ford ka. my wheel almost fell off. lol... was after i did some work with replacing the springs and brake wires. you know.. this thing with working on old rust corpses. one project leads to 2 more - endless loop and really appreciate this vid showing the stuff i needed to know about wheel bearings
Very well presented and some top quality tips! I'm a novice mechanic and seeing someone do it differently is always good for opening the mind of other ways to do things. With these Subaru bearings I usually just pull the whole hub and slap it in the press, I can do both sides in 2hrs quite comfortably without rushing, I wonder how fast you smash it out this way? I feel like the press method is much simpler/easier assuming you have the tools on hand. We don't have to worry about rust where I live so that probably makes things much easier if you wanna remove multiple arms etc.
The tool works really fast for me. With no rust I could beat a traditional press time easily. Plus if the the cv axle can be removed with out removing any steering or suspension adjustment bolts, an alignment may not be needed. If the knuckle is removed an alignment is needed afterwards. I prefer the on car tool. I don't think I have used a traditional press for a wheel bearing replacement in at least a decade. The only exception that comes to mind would be like a Toyota Tundra front or rear wheel bearing at times. Especially the rear. There are always exceptions to the rule. I would say the on car press does 99% of press in bearings out there though. Super valuable tool to have and try. Make sure you get a kit with a fine thread bolt if you are going to use it a lot. Those last a decade or so vs corse thread 😃🔧
Thank you for this video. Have to do my front and rear soon. Was going to just buy a whole hub bearing kit, but this will be much more cost effective in the long run. Mk4 VW Golf.
No problem!! The concepts will work great on front and rear on your VW. The front especially. The rear bearing might be easier to buy the hub kit for you (and me). It's a unique design compared to anything else out there. I would also recommend buying the best bearings available so you don't have to do it twice. Let me know how your project goes! 😃🔧🔧
This video came up automatically... I've done this several times, so I watched to see how you liked the tool. I like mine a lot as well. I have noticed that mine is a lot happier when I put a little wheel bearing grease on the threads of the tool. Great video!
Right on. I do that too from time to time. I should do it each time just to make everything nice and easy. I am glad you like your tool also. Its been a life saver for me 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun All four are press in 😒I own two Escapes, my Parents own two, and my Brother had one for a while. I've done seven or eight on Escapes now, and only one was not the front drivers side. That CV axle is on more of an extreme angle on that side, and I assume that's why it's more prone to going bad.
Awesome video. Very thorough and to the point. Others should take notes on how you stepped through the whole video and put confidence in others to follow your steps and attain success. A1 100% Absolutely well done through and through!
Ah, the old bugeye captured wheel bearings. I remember doing these many years ago. I ended up taking the spindle off and pressing the hub out with a socket, as I did not have a hub puller. Luckily I had access to a press. You should consider including the name of the car in the title so more people can find this great helpful video.
I have a 30 gallon compressor which can put out only 12 CFM. I have Aircat guns mini a regular size. They will remove any fastener quickly, but my compressor can't supply enough sustained air. You need a compressor that puts out 25CFM inorder to do any sustained output.
Great video. Thanks . Also I've had 2 inch wheel spacers on my F150 for 7 years without issue. Never cheap out when buying them and check the torque on them every time you have the wheel off. That's all.
Good tip! The car i fixed in the video is doing great with no issues on the bearing or spacers. So maybe I'm wrong here. I always default to "spacers are bad" from previous experiences. They do make the stance nice looking for sure 😀
@EasyFix. absolutely agree. They aren't ideal but I think if you buy good quality and pay attention by inspecting them on a regular basis and checking their torque you'll be okay. Loved your video tho. I replace my wheelbaring on my 2006 pontiac vibe using the guidance in your vid.. thanks again
thank you very much. i was looking for a video for my 03 forester. i just clicked on the first video that i searched under “ wheel bearing press “ and i was soo happy i clicked on this video even more happy that it was another subaru car . so it was the exact same steps !!
Overall yeah, but that pneumatic wrench is overkill. In the end You'll se bearing rotates too hard... If You'll crack few last times by hand shall be flawless...
Everything in the video can be done by hand. Power tools make some processes easier and faster. By hand is always the best. One can get a better "feel" for the repair 😀🔧
Thank you so much for this video! I just did this on both sides of my 2003 WRX and saw this was also a bugeye. Thankfully, this was how I did it (it was my first time pressing an unsealed bearing and I was nervous I should not have pressed on the inner bearing to install the hub but I didn't see any other way). All seems well and time will tell... 😂
I have seen many TH-cam videos on front wheel bearing replacement and yours is the best so far as it covers the finer details to avoid a bad installation.
By far the most comprehensive and detailed instructions on TH-cam on installing this type of bearing. This is my reference go to video. I learnt heaps, thank you for doing this.
Glad it helped you! The concepts are somewhat easy to understand after it is demonstrated a few times. It was extremely difficult to show on camera in tight spaces😃🔧
I remember doing wheel bearings on a friends Datsun around 1980. He told me he had tools, he didn't. I had my own tools for majority of work (I was motorcycle mechanic working at Suzuki dealers) but used a small hatchet instead of hammernand chisel as I was doing the work at his home (local trailer park) It looked really brutal but actually worked OK removing inner race and I managed not to damage anything. It's the first and last set of press in bearings I ever did A proper bearing tool would have made life so much easier
Wow thats a great story! 😀😂. Don't you wish you had invented this tool at the time. i feel that way sometimes. I don't know who did invent this simple tool but i guarantee it was a regular person like us and some corp took all the patent credit 😂😀
Awesome video i really wish i could use this style press where i live, im from Atlantic Canada where everything is extremely seized you have to use a oxy acy torch on everything before it will budge. I have one of these presses it does work on the atv's around here because they see way less road salt. But my 20 ton press even struggles sometimes to break free bearings here even after heating the bearing/race red hot. Pressing in is easy but coming out its always a big bang with 20tons behind it lol.
My friend, all the suggestions and methods that you mentioned serve people who have a workshop with complete equipment or even complete tools, not for someone who wants to repair his car himself to reduce costs on him in his home garage, but I would like to tell you that I have satisfied two information here. Inside and how to extract it with a screwdriver I hope that in the future you will take care of people who are not mechanics because it is simply more affordable and easier to buy a complete HP and replace it instead of all this negligence that requires professional tools. Thank you again
I would have cleaned the surrounding area (knuckle, etc) before pressing in these open type bearings. Some rust or sand is bound to end up in that bearing upon installation. Otherwise great video!
Thanks for the tips! If that were to happen you would notice that the bearing didn't seat all the way and the retaining clip would not fit in its groove 😃🔧🔧
@@aliciaalbright8365 Looks like you have hub bearings and don't have press in bearings. The Hub Shocker might be useful to you. th-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/w-d-xo.html
@@EasyFixShaun thanks for the response. The other versions have those bearings but the turbo has the oress bearings in the front. I thought the same at first until i looked unto it more
Great explainer video with a couple of concerns. 1: Hammering that inner lip style seal in will damage it and/or reduce lifespan at very least so find a suitable seal driver instead. That's best practice for the outer as well although that style is more forgiving. 2: Reusing that bearing after it hit the ground is not okay as the cage is guaranteed bent and likely roller damage. With 10's of thousands of hours in the trade I've dropped a couple of bearings before and I now handle them in a way that ensures they never fall.
Thanks for the tips! The seal and bearing are still good. The seal wasn't installed perfectly but is sealing perfectly. I did inspect the seal and it is still good years later with no leak signs so far.. The bearing is still good but can not be inspected. I did inspect and clean it and grease it again before install. I have complete confidence it was good. If either item was questionable I would have replaced them with new again on the spot. The seal was not the best install and a spacer is always best here. You are correct. There are other ways to install though and that's what I went with. Not ideal. But still good 😃😃
I was here notating the Amazon tools then saw that you have the links, amazing! First time I heard crevice pronounced differently, lol, love it. Not steal the tools but borrow them, lol, such a polite threat.
Great Question. If you are comfortable with repairs it is very doable. I haven't used this on car press in 10+ years except for some specialized rear Toyota truck bearings. Even those can be done without a press using some creativity. I love the on car press tool. If you can get the cv axle out, the tool will work. And if you can remove the axle with touching any alignment changing fasteners, no alignment changes will happen from getting the shaft out or back in 😃
@@EasyFixShaun I am comfortable with doing repairs, I have never done a press in bearing before. I am used to doing the bearing hub assembly which makes it a much easier process. I am certain I could get the cv axle out without messing with the alignment. I would be doing it on a 2004 Toyota Avalon on the passenger front.
instead of mashing the brand new seal from the inside, why not use a adapter the fits the outside of the seal and install. Alot easier and you are not going to mash the seal mating surface
I own an Australian early 06 model Impreza 2.0L R manual Non turbo has 4 wheel disc brakes and it's so bloody confusing when it comes to researching repairs on these, as there's a few variations on models even in the same year. Mine has the same one piece hub like here and others have a removable bearing assembly. This TUT has been *easy* enough to follow fortunately. I find myself watching over and over tho just to be clear :)
There was a lot of change over around the 03-06 model years on brake and bearing parts. I have been burned on parts like you also. Happens sometimes in the parts catalogs and it sucks. If you have the press in bearings this should be the video you need. Its a weird concept, once you do them a few times it is easy to understand. That is why there are not a lot of great videos on it. I tried hard to include as much information as I could so you could grasp concepts in the video. I also tried to give optional ideas of how some of the process could be done so that you could get a better idea. It may have made the video to complex. But, I wanted to show concepts of how press in bearings work and there is no absolute way to do them so that you can work through whatever small design differences you may have on your particular make year and model. Press in bearings are all basically the same. 😃🔧🔧 I have a second video on press in bearings (press in 1.0) also that could be helpful.
@@EasyFixShaun I personally think they went out of the way to make things harder for the average mechanic to get things done , they need to go back to the original wheel bearings from the 60s and 70s ! Great video of doing this job !
Done bearing changes on last 2 vehicles this way, nice to avoid bench fee and delay waiting for a shop to use their press. I just factor new hub insert into my cost to avoid issue with removing outer race.
@@mikemonaco3547 Yup all of the tools and concepts apply to your vehicle. Your front bearings are press in sealed press in style. The rear bearing is a sealed style hybrid bearing. The rear bearing portion bolts in. The rear hub though, will need to be unpressed to save it, and pressed back into the new bearing. 😃🔧
SOLID! I’m doing a rear wheel bearing on an ls400 and there’s no videos on it however this press in style is the same so thank you for the informative tutorial! I appreciate this a million 😎🤙
@@EasyFixShaun it’s been a hassle, but mainly because I don’t have the inner & outer seal and I need to also order the deflector on the inside I destroyed mine, in the process of removing the old bearing casing
@@stairwaytotevin Sorry your project isn't going great. The sealed bearing styles are much easier generally. I like those better. The extra seal steps mess me up all the time too. I forget them and have to disassemble again to get them installed. Been there for sure! Stick with it. Hang in there. Think your way through and be as patient as you can be. "it's just nuts and bolts". 😃
Currently doing the left rear wheel bearing on a 2001 Jaguar XJR. Prior owner (or owner's mechanic) didn't tighten the axle nut anywhere near the requisite torque spec and as a result it's been slowly working its way out as I've been driving it. Hub fought me a bit but it popped out after a bit of pressure from the puller and taps with a hammer on the rim. Bearing basically fell out once the hub was out, only things that are still in there are the inner and outer races. Going to see if the parts store has the bearing kit back in stock yet and hope it has a disc the right size to pull my races out.
I did inspect it. I live in the rust belt so we are used to everything being rusted. It's solid cast still and pretty strong. Superficial rust thankfully 😃
Thanks for the video. I liked your idea about keeping the strut bolts intact so we don’t need an alignment. Just finished a 2012 CRV front bearing by removing the 3 bolts holding the ball joint and was able to pop the drive axle out. Thanks!
Great detail review. Two things - (1) NEVER use a standard socket (chrome) on an impact gun, as it will shatter when least expected, and (2) always use blue Loctite on the wheel spacer nuts.
I've got to try this on my '68 Eldorado with front discs. We just got new bearings 70 miles ago pressed in by our local machine shop but they've already failed. We're able to slide the wheel hubs back and forth a bit on both sides 😬. I've heard horror stories about pressing bearings in on these old cars but this looks safe and much more affordable than hiring the machine shop again.
Is that a press-in bearing assembly similar to the video? Or could you have a "single nut manually adjusted" bearing like a trailer axle type of bearing? Here is a trailer bearing video if you are not sure. th-cam.com/video/YJNz5F8fRtA/w-d-xo.html
@@EasyFixShaun just took the knuckle/hub assembly to the machine shop and separated the knuckle from the hub and rotor. Apparently the only pressed fit is onto the hub and it just slides into the knuckle with a little force of course. They're only held together by the four bolts between the steering knuckle and the bearing retainer, and that retainer is worn out and a little bent which is causing it to slide back and forth on the bearing.
Oh ok. Wow that was ahead of its time. The concepts should be the same so the tool should work. Maybe try a different brand bearing. Timken is usually fantastic 😀🔧
Just ordered a bunch of crap off amazon, the finger gauge is out of of stock. Im working on a 2014 Mazda CX9. I appreciate you showing how to use these tools. I think i can get by with a slide hammer kit and the press kit.
Did exactly this with the same ATC tools you used before i ever saw your video. The only thing I did different was to completely repack the bearings with Lucas "Red & Tacky" before reassembly. I always question the quality of the greases used by factories as they might not be of the highest quality. It's been over 100,000 miles with no issues.
Nice work! That is fantastic mileage. I think grease quality is likely equal to bearing build quality. I think it's excellent to verify and fill the grease with your preferred quality brand. I have tried to add high quality grease to low quality bearings several times for testing purposes The determining factor seems to be bearing quality in that scenario. Low quality bearings seem to fail early no matter what high quality grease I have added. You must have used a high quality bearing right??
@@EasyFixShaun I did. I used KOYO Japanese made bearings. I think the seals were NTN or NTK brand. USA, Japanese and German made bearings, I feel, are the highest quality. In research I did, I found that a lot of bearing manufacturers put a minimal amount of grease in open bearings to keep them from rusting during the time from manufacture to end user. The amount is usually insufficient to provide a long life for the bearing. Some types of grease bases are not compatible with each other and should not be intermingled. Doing so can cause the grease to chemically break down releasing the lubricating oils that are bound to the base which will leave the base in soft chunks and the oil free to pool and possibly be lost through a weak seal. I'll usually rinse out grease and repack with grease proper for the application. i.e.-Marine duty greases have special corrosion inhibitors engineered for saltwater marine environments, but usually not for high shear load and temperature applications. Do your homework.
Nicely done. I have mixed wheel bearing grease's with no negative effects. It is always wise to flush and give fresh grease if possible. Wheel bearing grease is always NLG1 or NLG2 classified. As long as one of those classifications are used I haven't seen any problems mixing new grease's. Similiar to pumping chassis grease into ball joints/u-joints/other chassis parts with additional grease during an oil change. It is highly unlikely everyone has the same grease. Some new grease is always better than none. I have never seen anyone take apart a tie rod boot to match grease. What I have seen is some cheap manufactures try to blame grease as the cause for failures when chassis parts including wheel bearings, when the parts are clearly cheap and the cause. It's also common for some stores to blame axle nut torque as the reason for early failure on car & truck bolt-in style hub bearing units when the bearings are clearly junk. I agree, always start with high qualtiy parts and grease whenever possible and less failures will typically be the result. The opposite is true with junk 😃
I didn't see you do it but it's a good idea to clean the wheel studs before reinstalling the wheel spacers AND also apply red lock tite to the wheel studs so when you torque down tje wheel spacers you have more.confidence that they won't back off. Then install.your wheel as you would. I like a dab of anti sieze on the spacer studs to make removal easier. Great video by the way.
Thanks. Your explanations are clear and direct without needless chatter. Everything you say that is not directly instructional either clarifies or cautions. Good job. My only future request is to eliminate the background music. Music, especially techno or insistent beat, distracts and irritates, rather than add. Just a thought. Otherwise perfect.
Replaced the quieter bearing today. A few weeks ago your video helped me replace a bearing that at 35 it sounded like an airplane engine. Today I used your video again for the one in the other side (driver side) this was the quieter one as it only sounded like an airplane engine when I was doing 60+. They lasted 170k on this 2004 legacy. Subaru used NSK made in Japan bearings couldn’t find NSK but I did find Koyo Japanese bearings which are both about the same quality. After all that work I would never use Chinese on these earlier Subarus too much work to be doing twice.
@@EasyFixShaun I had to use a rope attached to my slide hammer to be able to pull the drive side bearing. It was frozen in place. With a rope however it is much easier on your hands, and since your not holding it, all of the energy is delivered to the bearing…
Thanks for the guidance. It's the first time I used that tool. It was so much easier than grinding things and pounding them out. I'll go clean out that grease right now before pressing it back together.😂 BTW mine is a 2006 Pontoac Vibe AWD.
I've got an old car (01 focus se) with the rear wheel bearing pressed into the brake drum (surprised me too) so in the past I've had to replace the whole drum with plenty of brake like in it because of the bearing. I'm fairly certain this video still applies, and so, my future wheel bearing job thanks you for possibly saving a set of brake drums (particularly cause replacing the drum means I have to do both sides, even if the other side is 'good'.
The one piece bearing assemblies can also be removed by packing the hub and knuckle with dry ice for about 30 minutes and you can take them apart with a mallet and brass or hardwood driving rod. The temperature will cause the parts to shrink and in some cases you will be able to take them apart using a leather gloved hand
I had a shop earlier today because I need to replace the wheel bearing in my 2002 Subaru outback all-wheel-drive they told me it was a four and a half hour to 5-hour job just to do it but yet a lot of people tell me the right tools it's about 30 minutes to an hour and a half tops judging by the way you did this job I would agree an hour or so is all it takes
Yup. If you have no rust issues or other issues and you have done it many times it can be done really fast. If it is your first time, take your time. You want to make sure everything is perfect either way 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun it would most likely be my first time cuz I'm not paying $260 in labor fees when I can get a loaner tools am I beautiful is rust free on I have no issues I'm taking my time pressing that bearing out and cleaning things and press it back in
@@EasyFixShaun I would have had and park the car ordered up all four wheel bearings and seals and decided why I'm there I was going to freshen up the front suspension and put new control arms and ball joints on the front lot of that stuff on these cars I'm new at doing but a classic car is a breeze but it's going good thank you for asking
Excellent! Buy all the tools, makes life easy. Especially the 12lb slide hammer and kit to go with it. If you have a stubborn hub to depress it saves your elbow and makes short work of it. I don't even use attempt my 5lb in the kit anymore 😃🔧
I bought the entire knuckle assembly bearing included…. Yes it was more $$ but fast change out with out buying a bearing press. This was on a Honda civic
Yes you absolutely can lube bearings for pressing in. I can guarantee you that lubricants do not effect press fit tolerances. If you gall the bore you will effect the tolerances and cause issues of clearance. And lube your pressure screws, this keeps your tools in top condition
Great point! You Nailed it. There are more negatives than positives to wheel spacers and most of them are safety related. I know a lot of people don't want to hear that. Nothing personal here, but wheel spacers are an extremely bad idea in the long run 😃⚠️
I love mine also. Easier than a traditional press. Plus if the alignment was good before if will be good after, as long as the cv-axle can be removed without disturbing any adjustable bolts used for alignment 😃🔧
. Great video very thorough and detailed without a lot of unnecessary information. Going to be replacing the bearing on a 2006 Hyundai Elantra. first time doing it, but after watching your video I'm confident it'll work out okay
I have a 1999 Suzuki Esteem and both of my front bearings need replacement. Does the tools you mentioned work on my car. Thank you for the video and God bless you!
No problem. Glad to help! You have two different styles of bearings on your vehicle. Press in on the front. Single nut style for the rear. Rears don't require press in tools. The fronts are both press in and the tools and concepts should all work good for you. The press kit is universal 😀🔧
Really helpful video, although I already replaced my bearings I always wanted to see how does a Subaru is, and yes it’s different than most FWD car that requires to remove the hub outboard and the bearings inboard. Pretty nice job buddy.
you can use bearing sleeve retainer compound to help the bearing slide in After the compound cures, you get better corrosion protection, and a more secure fit.
Great Tutorial!! lots of detail sir!! ty great tool kit for sure!! 100--100 As a master Mechanic, i noticed @920 you are using,looks like a regular socket... i personally prefer impact because of the high torqued required on this pulling,no matter what. been there once in my life....scary when these Silver looking sockets break (even Snap on) now i prefer safety. clean up rust around seal area "before hand"...I wouldn't personally hit any rubber seal with any hammer, just a point of view and a comment.. ty Sir. great video!!
Thanks! I agree with all your comments. I have broken both impact and non impact sockets. There is a more risk of non impact breaking for sure. Both socket type breakage can be really bad when it happens. They self destruct. Good call. I didn't have the impact style handy 😃🔧
I've done similar work on my cars before. I can definitely appreciate the presentation , details and tips shared on here. Good camera work too. Subbed.
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*_New sway bar link video_* th-cam.com/video/0S8JBe_jn6g/w-d-xo.html
Um they are not all the same apparently you haven't done a 01 4runner rear wheel bearings well axle bearings
Hi I'm kagiso from south Africa I think I need your help
@EasyFixShaun 2010 Ford Edge AWD doing the front wheel bearings.
Already did rears which are bolt on hubs, front are not .
Good work 👍
This is a really good video because you don't have to talk about the whole history of mankind or anything you get right to the point stay on point
Thanks, glad you like it 😃🔧
Good video and advice apart from one thing. With grease, the more the merrier is incorrect. I was informed years ago by a bearing manufacturer that over greasing was the most common reason for premature failure as it can lead to localised overheating.
Other than that, good, to the point video.
I don't like having to hit anything in this with a hammer , that's the reason for buying the tools
@@idonotwantahandle2 I've also heard this from professional mechanics. The extra grease has nowhere to go and thus create unnecessary pressure and churning which could damage the seals. At some point the grease could prevent smooth rolling. I could not believe it at first but I checked out some old bearings and yes some of them are full of grease but the bearing is stuck or hardly rolls.
Thought it may be worth noting that my 30 year old DD still has all its original wheel bearings. 250k on original bearings suggests I am not doing something wrong.
Just finished a similar job on my Forester - I used the press kit you have & with the right size disc found it very good at pulling the seals into place without needing to hammer them home.
Excellent use case 😃
one of the best videos of how to do a bearing job correctly with a sense of professional way of doing a job. well done
Well thank you very much!! I really appreciate that 😃😃
I just purchased a full size traditional press and it worked perfectly on my 2011 Toyota Venza AWD front passenger bearing replacement. Thanks for your video
Very nice! Old school 😀😀
The details makes the difference between total failure or total success
Thank you so very much for doing and going the extra mile instead half as like 95% of youtubers these days
No problem. Im glad to help 😀🔧🔧
I liked the video. I just installed rear wheel bearings on my 84 Porsche, and When I checked the play I was horrified. I almost took them off thinking i damaged them installing them. THEN I remembered the hub nut gets tightened to 300 NM and after that it was rock solid no play!
I am so glad you liked it! Yes the nut holds it all together on some setups. It is a backup mechanism for most all setups 😃🔧
Holy moly! You have made a difficult-looking task look MUCH easier to perform. The fact you convinced me to get the proper tools for the future, made me a subscriber! Thank you so much!
hahaha 😃 Thank you. Glad to help out 😃🔧
That's what I like about my 09 fxt...all bolt on easy peasy hubs. My 94 impreza on the other hand, tiny press type bearings. 😂 Luckily I've had one of those press sets for probably 15 years. Definitely the best way for driveway bearing replacement. 👏
Yes. Best way for shops also 😃
I’m only halfway through this video and my mind is already made up.
It’s absolutely Great.
Your explanations and the filming are just brilliant.
You explain the pros and cons.
Just Amazing.
You’ve got my subscription.
Thank you for posting.
Regards, Joe.
Wow, thank you! I hope your project goes well for you 😃🔧
My minds made up as well, i dont feel like doing this but i hit that u turn a little too hard today 😂
I purchased a fwd wheel bearing installer/removal tool just like yours along with a Harbor Freight/Pittsburgh Steel 20 ton press. I swear by that cup & disk set for all press in bearings! The biggest thing with all forcing screw type of tools is, Lubricate the forcing screw! Clean the inner race & all mating surfaces to clean shiny metal & use brake clean then grease or antiseize before bearing installation.
I agree. I only use the forcing screw method now too. Much better, faster, and if i can get the CV-axle removed without disturbing any alignment specific fasteners or connections, the bearing replacement process doesn't change the current alignment settings 😀
I’m a master mechanic and this was a great step by step instructional video
Thanks a lot my brother! 😀🔧
I am a Master Mechanic's Master's Master and I must concur.
Why is a master mechanic watching this video? Haven't you done like a million bearings?
@@kylerandolph79 sometimes I like to watch the way someone else does it
Thank you for this video I used it to learn how to use these tools and save me over 600 dollars on one job! The work was brutal but everything turned out so ty ty ty good sir!
Great to hear! I am glad you got it all sorted out. Hopefully you are now equipped if another fails in the future 😃😃
This is how a video should be done, great work! Ive never done this before but now I have confidence to do it by watching your video. You were very thorough in your explanation, thanks.
Glad I could help! Thank you so much for the kind comment ✅🔧
Yes!!!! he makes me feel like I can do it tool
I’m doing this on a 2002 Subaru Legacy, thank you so much for making this tutorial, this is the best one I’ve seen on TH-cam
Thank you very much! Really appreciate all the love 😃😃
Really well done, I paused and replayed this one a few times. We don't see this kind of detail with sealed bearings, it was eye opening to see how these old style open bearings come apart. Good point about no grease on the outside of the races during installation. Although it might be tempting to use antiseize, you don't want that getting into the bearing surfaces. I understand your point, they are better left dry, they are supposed to seize a little on each side. I've heard remarks about taking care around speed sensors, when would you try to take the sensor out before doing the bearing?
Thanks! I really appreciate that. The speed sensor should always be removed before repair. The particular Subaru I was working on had a very short sensor that didn’t protrude enough to need removal. But if the sensor is there it’s always best to remove if you can to avoid damage while working in and around that hub area. I’m glad you like the detail of the video! A lot of effort went into making that video. It’s a hard video to capture and also a difficult job compared to a bolt in bearing. Totally doable. But with both videoing and working it was a lot or organization. Thanks for checking that one out! 😀
this "way of doing it" works most of the time and is great for "driveway mechanics". Been a tech four decades, for the past three and half decades I have ALWAYS used a press (as an apprentice the shop I worked in had a setup similar to this tool). I have repaired SOOO many bearings that were just done using this tool, all because the bearing was NOT seated 100%. Then there is the stubborn wheel bearings. I have a 40 ton press and have seen some wheel bearings take all 40 tons to unseat... and yes it makes one hell of a BANG when they let go. This is not a criticism, just an FYI moment. Great job on the vid
Thanks for the tip! I have had no seating issues so far on all vehicle bearings with the tool including larger bearings like Toyota trucks. The clamping pressure of the tool is significant. The 3/4" bolt and torque of the fastener could be calculated, it would be pretty high. The feel of the bolt pressing in the bearing is very similar to a press. When the bearing stops- IT STOPS. Generally speaking interference parts like wheel bearings can be handled with a tool like this no problem. I was skeptical at first also. The press and this tool both press bearings together and are both useful. It is user preference. As far as bearings coming back for another repair, I only see that with mid grade and cheap bearings. High quality bearings have never been an issue for me 😃🔧
I've had a couple vehicles where bolts were seized into sleeves and removing the knuckle from the vehicle would incur extra expense that the customer wasn't ready for i.e. rear knuckle of an '08 Escape comes to mind. Several linkages that meant torch time and melting bushings. This type of on-vehicle press makes my life easier and saves the customer money. Agreed that there are some that require full shop press force and there's no avoiding the expense that's coming.
Great tip! Another reason the tool is so handy.
Excellent editing and content. Straight to the point. I wish all "How To" videos were like this.
Thank you I really appreciate that. More to come 😃😃
1998 ford ka. my wheel almost fell off. lol...
was after i did some work with replacing the springs and brake wires.
you know.. this thing with working on old rust corpses.
one project leads to 2 more - endless loop
and really appreciate this vid showing the stuff i needed to know about wheel bearings
Oh wow. Im glad it didn't fall off! Yup rust is a machines worst enemy 😀🔧
Very well presented and some top quality tips! I'm a novice mechanic and seeing someone do it differently is always good for opening the mind of other ways to do things. With these Subaru bearings I usually just pull the whole hub and slap it in the press, I can do both sides in 2hrs quite comfortably without rushing, I wonder how fast you smash it out this way? I feel like the press method is much simpler/easier assuming you have the tools on hand. We don't have to worry about rust where I live so that probably makes things much easier if you wanna remove multiple arms etc.
The tool works really fast for me. With no rust I could beat a traditional press time easily. Plus if the the cv axle can be removed with out removing any steering or suspension adjustment bolts, an alignment may not be needed. If the knuckle is removed an alignment is needed afterwards. I prefer the on car tool. I don't think I have used a traditional press for a wheel bearing replacement in at least a decade. The only exception that comes to mind would be like a Toyota Tundra front or rear wheel bearing at times. Especially the rear. There are always exceptions to the rule. I would say the on car press does 99% of press in bearings out there though. Super valuable tool to have and try. Make sure you get a kit with a fine thread bolt if you are going to use it a lot. Those last a decade or so vs corse thread 😃🔧
I just wanted to say thank you for putting this video together. I never would’ve had the confidence to do this otherwise.
You're welcome! Glad it helped! 😃
Thank you for this video. Have to do my front and rear soon. Was going to just buy a whole hub bearing kit, but this will be much more cost effective in the long run. Mk4 VW Golf.
No problem!! The concepts will work great on front and rear on your VW. The front especially. The rear bearing might be easier to buy the hub kit for you (and me). It's a unique design compared to anything else out there. I would also recommend buying the best bearings available so you don't have to do it twice. Let me know how your project goes! 😃🔧🔧
I will definitely let you know how this turns out. Thanks again and I hope you are having an awesome start to your new year.
Excellent! Sounds great. Happy new year!!😀🔧
This video came up automatically... I've done this several times, so I watched to see how you liked the tool. I like mine a lot as well. I have noticed that mine is a lot happier when I put a little wheel bearing grease on the threads of the tool. Great video!
Right on. I do that too from time to time. I should do it each time just to make everything nice and easy. I am glad you like your tool also. Its been a life saver for me 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun its almost like TH-cam knows I am about to need it again. My Wife's Escape is starting to get that hum noise. Thanks again!
Oh man. I swear youtube knows everything haha! Fronts are press-in i think. Rears bolt-in i believe 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun All four are press in 😒I own two Escapes, my Parents own two, and my Brother had one for a while. I've done seven or eight on Escapes now, and only one was not the front drivers side. That CV axle is on more of an extreme angle on that side, and I assume that's why it's more prone to going bad.
Wow! Thats awsome. You are the escape master 😀. Edge is the one i was thinking about. My bad. Keep them escapes running 😀🔧
Awesome video. Very thorough and to the point. Others should take notes on how you stepped through the whole video and put confidence in others to follow your steps and attain success. A1 100% Absolutely well done through and through!
I appreciate that! Have a great week 😃😃
Ah, the old bugeye captured wheel bearings. I remember doing these many years ago. I ended up taking the spindle off and pressing the hub out with a socket, as I did not have a hub puller. Luckily I had access to a press. You should consider including the name of the car in the title so more people can find this great helpful video.
There is surprisingly a lot of these around still 😃🔧
Oh my god. Just perfect instructions. You’re a hero.
Thanks a lot haha! Glad to help 😀🔧🔧
Here!! Here!! 10/10 on pair with the info. Hell yeah!!!
Thank you! I love making these videos 😃🔧
I have a 30 gallon compressor which can put out only 12 CFM. I have Aircat guns mini a regular size. They will remove any fastener quickly, but my compressor can't supply enough sustained air. You need a compressor that puts out 25CFM inorder to do any sustained output.
Nice! Yup sounds about right 😀🔧
Great video. Thanks .
Also I've had 2 inch wheel spacers on my F150 for 7 years without issue. Never cheap out when buying them and check the torque on them every time you have the wheel off. That's all.
Good tip! The car i fixed in the video is doing great with no issues on the bearing or spacers. So maybe I'm wrong here. I always default to "spacers are bad" from previous experiences. They do make the stance nice looking for sure 😀
@EasyFix. absolutely agree. They aren't ideal but I think if you buy good quality and pay attention by inspecting them on a regular basis and checking their torque you'll be okay. Loved your video tho. I replace my wheelbaring on my 2006 pontiac vibe using the guidance in your vid.. thanks again
No problem! Glad to help. Stay safe :)
How did you manage to do this without overbearing background music obscuring your narration? Is that allowed on youtube? 🙂
I just completed a wheel bearing install yesterday. Man, I wish I had seen this video first!
next time 😃😃
I don't even need bearings but the video is so well made I stuck to the end.
No way! Well now you have some random bearing knowledge. Thank you. I am glad you liked it 😃🔧
thank you very much. i was looking for a video for my 03 forester. i just clicked on the first video that i searched under “ wheel bearing press “ and i was soo happy i clicked on this video even more happy that it was another subaru car . so it was the exact same steps !!
Great to hear! You are welcome. Good luck with your project 😃🔧
Probably one of the best repair videos I have seen. Right as I was going to ask myself the question, he answered it. Really, really nice video
Wow, thanks! I am really glad this helps people out like you 😃🔧
Overall yeah, but that pneumatic wrench is overkill. In the end You'll se bearing rotates too hard... If You'll crack few last times by hand shall be flawless...
Everything in the video can be done by hand. Power tools make some processes easier and faster. By hand is always the best. One can get a better "feel" for the repair 😀🔧
Thank you so much for this video! I just did this on both sides of my 2003 WRX and saw this was also a bugeye. Thankfully, this was how I did it (it was my first time pressing an unsealed bearing and I was nervous I should not have pressed on the inner bearing to install the hub but I didn't see any other way). All seems well and time will tell... 😂
No problem! Nice work on your project 😀😀
I have seen many TH-cam videos on front wheel bearing replacement and yours is the best so far as it covers the finer details to avoid a bad installation.
Thanks a lot! I really appreciate that. I am so glad it helped you out 😃🔧
Watch Eric O. of South Main Auto.
Eric is a great mechanic also 😀🔧
I am about to do a 2006 Honda CRV. No play, but you can hear bearing noise. I learned a lot from your video! Cheers
Glad it helped! Good luck with your project 😃
By far the most comprehensive and detailed instructions on TH-cam on installing this type of bearing. This is my reference go to video. I learnt heaps, thank you for doing this.
Hey thanks a lot! No problem! Glad to help 😀🔧🔧
I went to amazon because of you. been using a press for years.
Awsome! I have never looked back with mine. Love it 😀🔧
The best video ive seen that explains everything. This video is so good even someone who never done mechanical work can do it. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it helped you! The concepts are somewhat easy to understand after it is demonstrated a few times. It was extremely difficult to show on camera in tight spaces😃🔧
I remember doing wheel bearings on a friends Datsun around 1980.
He told me he had tools, he didn't.
I had my own tools for majority of work (I was motorcycle mechanic working at Suzuki dealers) but used a small hatchet instead of hammernand chisel as I was doing the work at his home (local trailer park)
It looked really brutal but actually worked OK removing inner race and I managed not to damage anything.
It's the first and last set of press in bearings I ever did
A proper bearing tool would have made life so much easier
Wow thats a great story! 😀😂. Don't you wish you had invented this tool at the time. i feel that way sometimes. I don't know who did invent this simple tool but i guarantee it was a regular person like us and some corp took all the patent credit 😂😀
@@EasyFixShaun Yep, it would have made things faster and MUCH easier
Would have saved soooo much time and effort 🔧
Awesome video i really wish i could use this style press where i live, im from Atlantic Canada where everything is extremely seized you have to use a oxy acy torch on everything before it will budge. I have one of these presses it does work on the atv's around here because they see way less road salt. But my 20 ton press even struggles sometimes to break free bearings here even after heating the bearing/race red hot. Pressing in is easy but coming out its always a big bang with 20tons behind it lol.
Oh wow that sounds very similar to Michigan. We use salt on the roads and it Rusts everything so bad here too😀🔧
Um I use this set on cars in New York where new card rust out in 5 years if you don't wash your car everyday it snows and for 3 to 5 days after too
My friend, all the suggestions and methods that you mentioned serve people who have a workshop with complete equipment or even complete tools, not for someone who wants to repair his car himself to reduce costs on him in his home garage, but I would like to tell you that I have satisfied two information here. Inside and how to extract it with a screwdriver
I hope that in the future you will take care of people who are not mechanics because it is simply more affordable and easier to buy a complete HP and replace it instead of all this negligence that requires professional tools. Thank you again
You are welcome 😃🔧
@MrGoldman9
Good concern u had expressed. I'm that category. No tools . What is HP abbreviation please?
I would have cleaned the surrounding area (knuckle, etc) before pressing in these open type bearings. Some rust or sand is bound to end up in that bearing upon installation. Otherwise great video!
Thanks for the tips! If that were to happen you would notice that the bearing didn't seat all the way and the retaining clip would not fit in its groove 😃🔧🔧
Would this work on a 2015 kia optima sxl turbo?
@@aliciaalbright8365 Looks like you have hub bearings and don't have press in bearings. The Hub Shocker might be useful to you.
th-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/w-d-xo.html
@@EasyFixShaun thanks for the response. The other versions have those bearings but the turbo has the oress bearings in the front. I thought the same at first until i looked unto it more
Oh! My bad. I looked it up wrong. Then yes! It will work.
No doubt, high quality tools make repairs look good on anyone's hands.....!
Thats a great saying! 😀😀
Excellent informative vid 😎
Favourite bit “the moment of truth” when you could hear the steering ball joints clunking 😂
👍
Glad you enjoyed it 😃
Which is why the true test to see if a front wheel bearing is damaged is to shake the wheel at the 12 o' clock and the 6 o' clock position.
Great explainer video with a couple of concerns. 1: Hammering that inner lip style seal in will damage it and/or reduce lifespan at very least so find a suitable seal driver instead. That's best practice for the outer as well although that style is more forgiving. 2: Reusing that bearing after it hit the ground is not okay as the cage is guaranteed bent and likely roller damage. With 10's of thousands of hours in the trade I've dropped a couple of bearings before and I now handle them in a way that ensures they never fall.
Thanks for the tips! The seal and bearing are still good. The seal wasn't installed perfectly but is sealing perfectly. I did inspect the seal and it is still good years later with no leak signs so far.. The bearing is still good but can not be inspected. I did inspect and clean it and grease it again before install. I have complete confidence it was good. If either item was questionable I would have replaced them with new again on the spot. The seal was not the best install and a spacer is always best here. You are correct. There are other ways to install though and that's what I went with. Not ideal. But still good 😃😃
Love myself a good long detailed video! Thanks!
I’m waiting on that Bennett’s motor sports next video too! 😃
I was here notating the Amazon tools then saw that you have the links, amazing! First time I heard crevice pronounced differently, lol, love it. Not steal the tools but borrow them, lol, such a polite threat.
Hahaha. I'm glad it gave you a chuckle 😀😀
This is much better with a PRESS. Like the unsealed better just do your own packing of grease.
I have done it every way. The press is great too. And alignment is a must after removing the knuckle though so be sure to do that 😃
Hope you lubed up the threads, a thrust bearing would certainly help too.
yes the new tools bolts are so cheap they are bandaiding with thrust washers. They still break 🧐
I have been debating on trying this myself or paying a shop because I didn't have a press, but this makes me think I can do it on my own.
Great Question. If you are comfortable with repairs it is very doable. I haven't used this on car press in 10+ years except for some specialized rear Toyota truck bearings. Even those can be done without a press using some creativity. I love the on car press tool. If you can get the cv axle out, the tool will work. And if you can remove the axle with touching any alignment changing fasteners, no alignment changes will happen from getting the shaft out or back in 😃
@@EasyFixShaun I am comfortable with doing repairs, I have never done a press in bearing before. I am used to doing the bearing hub assembly which makes it a much easier process. I am certain I could get the cv axle out without messing with the alignment. I would be doing it on a 2004 Toyota Avalon on the passenger front.
Do some more research on TH-cam on your particular model and plan your repair if you decide to move forward. Let me know how your project goes 😃
instead of mashing the brand new seal from the inside, why not use a adapter the fits the outside of the seal and install. Alot easier and you are not going to mash the seal mating surface
You are correct. That would be a much better way to set the seal squarely. I love using a hammer for seals😃🔧
I own an Australian early 06 model Impreza 2.0L R manual Non turbo has 4 wheel disc brakes and it's so bloody confusing when it comes to researching repairs on these, as there's a few variations on models even in the same year. Mine has the same one piece hub like here and others have a removable bearing assembly. This TUT has been *easy* enough to follow fortunately.
I find myself watching over and over tho just to be clear :)
There was a lot of change over around the 03-06 model years on brake and bearing parts. I have been burned on parts like you also. Happens sometimes in the parts catalogs and it sucks. If you have the press in bearings this should be the video you need. Its a weird concept, once you do them a few times it is easy to understand. That is why there are not a lot of great videos on it. I tried hard to include as much information as I could so you could grasp concepts in the video. I also tried to give optional ideas of how some of the process could be done so that you could get a better idea. It may have made the video to complex. But, I wanted to show concepts of how press in bearings work and there is no absolute way to do them so that you can work through whatever small design differences you may have on your particular make year and model. Press in bearings are all basically the same. 😃🔧🔧 I have a second video on press in bearings (press in 1.0) also that could be helpful.
I was waiting for this video to do my wheel bearings!
I need some airplane repairs btw 😀
@@EasyFixShaun I personally think they went out of the way to make things harder for the average mechanic to get things done , they need to go back to the original wheel bearings from the 60s and 70s ! Great video of doing this job !
I agree! They are trying to drive traffic to the dealerships. They do it on purpose. It’s not cool at all. It shouldn’t be that way. 🧐
Done bearing changes on last 2 vehicles this way, nice to avoid bench fee and delay waiting for a shop to use their press. I just factor new hub insert into my cost to avoid issue with removing outer race.
Great tips for doing it yourself 😃
Very impressive video! Great details.
Thanks a lot! I’m glad you like it 😃
Sweet video will it be the same on a 2007 Mercedes E350 4matic with the sports package please let me know. Thanks
@@mikemonaco3547 Yup all of the tools and concepts apply to your vehicle. Your front bearings are press in sealed press in style. The rear bearing is a sealed style hybrid bearing. The rear bearing portion bolts in. The rear hub though, will need to be unpressed to save it, and pressed back into the new bearing. 😃🔧
SOLID! I’m doing a rear wheel bearing on an ls400 and there’s no videos on it however this press in style is the same so thank you for the informative tutorial! I appreciate this a million 😎🤙
Thanks! Good luck with your project 😃😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun it’s been a hassle, but mainly because I don’t have the inner & outer seal and I need to also order the deflector on the inside I destroyed mine, in the process of removing the old bearing casing
@@stairwaytotevin Sorry your project isn't going great. The sealed bearing styles are much easier generally. I like those better. The extra seal steps mess me up all the time too. I forget them and have to disassemble again to get them installed. Been there for sure! Stick with it. Hang in there. Think your way through and be as patient as you can be. "it's just nuts and bolts". 😃
Nice video! I’ll be trying this next time I have to do a bearing, ordering the tool now so I’m ready : )
Nice! Thanks a lot. Really appreciate that! Good luck on your project. 🔧😃😃
Currently doing the left rear wheel bearing on a 2001 Jaguar XJR. Prior owner (or owner's mechanic) didn't tighten the axle nut anywhere near the requisite torque spec and as a result it's been slowly working its way out as I've been driving it.
Hub fought me a bit but it popped out after a bit of pressure from the puller and taps with a hammer on the rim. Bearing basically fell out once the hub was out, only things that are still in there are the inner and outer races. Going to see if the parts store has the bearing kit back in stock yet and hope it has a disc the right size to pull my races out.
Good video Mate 👍🤠
Thanks man!😀
No problem 👍
This is so much more honest and complete than other videos
The knuckle looks like it has rust holes in it!
I did inspect it. I live in the rust belt so we are used to everything being rusted. It's solid cast still and pretty strong. Superficial rust thankfully 😃
Thank you! Glad you liked it 😃😃
Lmao the finger guage link was pretty funny 😂 imma subscribe for that
You are the first to comment hahahah. Thanks you. Glad to have you! 😀😀
Thanks for the video. I liked your idea about keeping the strut bolts intact so we don’t need an alignment. Just finished a 2012 CRV front bearing by removing the 3 bolts holding the ball joint and was able to pop the drive axle out. Thanks!
You are welcome glad to help! Nicely done 😃🔧
Congrats for your well made vid. Really informative on how to use tools. Nice and clean camera use. Perfect video edition. Thanks
Thank you! I really appreciate. A significant amount of time is needed to do it and it isn't always appreciated. Made my day 😀🔧🔧
Great detail review. Two things - (1) NEVER use a standard socket (chrome) on an impact gun, as it will shatter when least expected, and (2) always use blue Loctite on the wheel spacer nuts.
Good tips 😃
I've got to try this on my '68 Eldorado with front discs. We just got new bearings 70 miles ago pressed in by our local machine shop but they've already failed. We're able to slide the wheel hubs back and forth a bit on both sides 😬. I've heard horror stories about pressing bearings in on these old cars but this looks safe and much more affordable than hiring the machine shop again.
Is that a press-in bearing assembly similar to the video? Or could you have a "single nut manually adjusted" bearing like a trailer axle type of bearing? Here is a trailer bearing video if you are not sure. th-cam.com/video/YJNz5F8fRtA/w-d-xo.html
@@EasyFixShaun it's a sealed press in bearing.
@@EasyFixShaun just took the knuckle/hub assembly to the machine shop and separated the knuckle from the hub and rotor. Apparently the only pressed fit is onto the hub and it just slides into the knuckle with a little force of course. They're only held together by the four bolts between the steering knuckle and the bearing retainer, and that retainer is worn out and a little bent which is causing it to slide back and forth on the bearing.
Oh ok. Wow that was ahead of its time. The concepts should be the same so the tool should work. Maybe try a different brand bearing. Timken is usually fantastic 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun the bearing's fine so we don't need to replace it but the only brand that produces the bearing I need is WJB.
Excellent video as always! Keep em coming!
Thanks man! Really appreciate that. Can’t wait to see your next one also!
Just ordered a bunch of crap off amazon, the finger gauge is out of of stock.
Im working on a 2014 Mazda CX9. I appreciate you showing how to use these tools. I think i can get by with a slide hammer kit and the press kit.
😂 the finger gauge should be available from other sellers on amazon if needed. With the slide hammer and press kit you should in pretty solid shape 😀
Great stuff!
Thanks a lot demo demo 😃
Did exactly this with the same ATC tools you used before i ever saw your video. The only thing I did different was to completely repack the bearings with Lucas "Red & Tacky" before reassembly. I always question the quality of the greases used by factories as they might not be of the highest quality. It's been over 100,000 miles with no issues.
Nice work! That is fantastic mileage. I think grease quality is likely equal to bearing build quality. I think it's excellent to verify and fill the grease with your preferred quality brand. I have tried to add high quality grease to low quality bearings several times for testing purposes The determining factor seems to be bearing quality in that scenario. Low quality bearings seem to fail early no matter what high quality grease I have added. You must have used a high quality bearing right??
@@EasyFixShaun I did. I used KOYO Japanese made bearings. I think the seals were NTN or NTK brand. USA, Japanese and German made bearings, I feel, are the highest quality.
In research I did, I found that a lot of bearing manufacturers put a minimal amount of grease in open bearings to keep them from rusting during the time from manufacture to end user. The amount is usually insufficient to provide a long life for the bearing.
Some types of grease bases are not compatible with each other and should not be intermingled. Doing so can cause the grease to chemically break down releasing the lubricating oils that are bound to the base which will leave the base in soft chunks and the oil free to pool and possibly be lost through a weak seal.
I'll usually rinse out grease and repack with grease proper for the application.
i.e.-Marine duty greases have special corrosion inhibitors engineered for saltwater marine environments, but usually not for high shear load and temperature applications. Do your homework.
Nicely done. I have mixed wheel bearing grease's with no negative effects. It is always wise to flush and give fresh grease if possible. Wheel bearing grease is always NLG1 or NLG2 classified. As long as one of those classifications are used I haven't seen any problems mixing new grease's. Similiar to pumping chassis grease into ball joints/u-joints/other chassis parts with additional grease during an oil change. It is highly unlikely everyone has the same grease. Some new grease is always better than none. I have never seen anyone take apart a tie rod boot to match grease. What I have seen is some cheap manufactures try to blame grease as the cause for failures when chassis parts including wheel bearings, when the parts are clearly cheap and the cause. It's also common for some stores to blame axle nut torque as the reason for early failure on car & truck bolt-in style hub bearing units when the bearings are clearly junk. I agree, always start with high qualtiy parts and grease whenever possible and less failures will typically be the result. The opposite is true with junk 😃
I didn't see you do it but it's a good idea to clean the wheel studs before reinstalling the wheel spacers AND also apply red lock tite to the wheel studs so when you torque down tje wheel spacers you have more.confidence that they won't back off. Then install.your wheel as you would. I like a dab of anti sieze on the spacer studs to make removal easier.
Great video by the way.
Thanks. Your explanations are clear and direct without needless chatter. Everything you say that is not directly instructional either clarifies or cautions. Good job. My only future request is to eliminate the background music. Music, especially techno or insistent beat, distracts and irritates, rather than add. Just a thought. Otherwise perfect.
Glad it was helpful! Thank for the pointers. Will do! Really appreciate that 😀😀
I know you mentioned not to use lubricants between the surfaces, but I always do. It makes pressing easier and prevents binding.
Correct. Just personal preference for me. Lots of people lubricate the bearing for install with success 😃🤝
Wow, very detailed video. Watched it during my lunch time since I should be replacing my wheel bearings within the next week or two.
Great to hear! Let me know how your project goes 😃🔧
Replaced the quieter bearing today. A few weeks ago your video helped me replace a bearing that at 35 it sounded like an airplane engine. Today I used your video again for the one in the other side (driver side) this was the quieter one as it only sounded like an airplane engine when I was doing 60+. They lasted 170k on this 2004 legacy. Subaru used NSK made in Japan bearings couldn’t find NSK but I did find Koyo Japanese bearings which are both about the same quality. After all that work I would never use Chinese on these earlier Subarus too much work to be doing twice.
Awsome! Ya the best bearings are a must for sure. I always will wait for the good stuff. Just not worth it with cheap stuff😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun I had to use a rope attached to my slide hammer to be able to pull the drive side bearing. It was frozen in place. With a rope however it is much easier on your hands, and since your not holding it, all of the energy is delivered to the bearing…
Thats a great idea! I love it 😀🔧
Best video ever on installing and removing wheel bearings. You could be an instructor.
Wow, thanks! 😃🔧
This video is easy to see what's going on probably the best one on all of TH-cam
Thanks a lot! I really tried to show what makes it work 😀🔧🔧
Wow. By far the best bearing replacement video I've seen in TH-cam. Extremely in depth explanation of the bearing and how to use the tools. Thank you.
Glad it helped! Thank you 😃😃😃
You aren’t only a mechanic but also an engineer. The way you explain mate is really amazing and easy to do it by own.
Thank you! You are very kind 😃😃
Thanks for the guidance. It's the first time I used that tool. It was so much easier than grinding things and pounding them out. I'll go clean out that grease right now before pressing it back together.😂 BTW mine is a 2006 Pontoac Vibe AWD.
No problem. Good luck on your project 😀😀
I've got an old car (01 focus se) with the rear wheel bearing pressed into the brake drum (surprised me too) so in the past I've had to replace the whole drum with plenty of brake like in it because of the bearing. I'm fairly certain this video still applies, and so, my future wheel bearing job thanks you for possibly saving a set of brake drums (particularly cause replacing the drum means I have to do both sides, even if the other side is 'good'.
Yup tools should work if you wanted to press out of a knuckle or drum. Same exact basic concepts 😀
The one piece bearing assemblies can also be removed by packing the hub and knuckle with dry ice for about 30 minutes and you can take them apart with a mallet and brass or hardwood driving rod. The temperature will cause the parts to shrink and in some cases you will be able to take them apart using a leather gloved hand
Great trick! 😃🔧✅
@jpvill4th please send any links to dry ice method, sound great. Thanks 👍
Hello, first time watching your TH-cam from Australia 🇦🇺 . Will be watching more love how you show from start to finish with no editing. Thank you
Thanks so much! 😊 TH-cam makes the world smaller 😀😀
Best video I’ve seen on press in bearings. Very thorough. Thank you.
Im so glad you liked it! Glad to help out! 😀🔧
I had a shop earlier today because I need to replace the wheel bearing in my 2002 Subaru outback all-wheel-drive they told me it was a four and a half hour to 5-hour job just to do it but yet a lot of people tell me the right tools it's about 30 minutes to an hour and a half tops judging by the way you did this job I would agree an hour or so is all it takes
Yup. If you have no rust issues or other issues and you have done it many times it can be done really fast. If it is your first time, take your time. You want to make sure everything is perfect either way 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun it would most likely be my first time cuz I'm not paying $260 in labor fees when I can get a loaner tools am I beautiful is rust free on I have no issues I'm taking my time pressing that bearing out and cleaning things and press it back in
How did your project go?
@@EasyFixShaun I would have had and park the car ordered up all four wheel bearings and seals and decided why I'm there I was going to freshen up the front suspension and put new control arms and ball joints on the front lot of that stuff on these cars I'm new at doing but a classic car is a breeze but it's going good thank you for asking
Awesome. Old cars are so cool 😃😃
Thank you for the excellent instructions. I feel confident that my son and I can start and complete this job. ✌️
Excellent! Buy all the tools, makes life easy. Especially the 12lb slide hammer and kit to go with it. If you have a stubborn hub to depress it saves your elbow and makes short work of it. I don't even use attempt my 5lb in the kit anymore 😃🔧
I bought the entire knuckle assembly bearing included…. Yes it was more $$ but fast change out with out buying a bearing press. This was on a Honda civic
Nice job!! Don't forget the alignment 😀
Yes you absolutely can lube bearings for pressing in. I can guarantee you that lubricants do not effect press fit tolerances. If you gall the bore you will effect the tolerances and cause issues of clearance. And lube your pressure screws, this keeps your tools in top condition
You can lube it, I just prefer not to. I have never galled a bore. The factory puts em in dry 😃🔧
spacers add alot of extra load to the wheel bearing ,just like highly offset wheels that causes the bearing to wear much faster.. good work!
Great point! You Nailed it. There are more negatives than positives to wheel spacers and most of them are safety related. I know a lot of people don't want to hear that. Nothing personal here, but wheel spacers are an extremely bad idea in the long run 😃⚠️
Thank you so much. Good tutorial. About to tackle all 4 wheel bearings on 2010 scion. Rented all the pullers and pushers from autozone.
For the record it's a 2010 scion TC.
Awesome. Good luck, let me know how it goes 😃
I love this tool set. Done many bearing with it. Best option if you dont own a H press...
I love mine also. Easier than a traditional press. Plus if the alignment was good before if will be good after, as long as the cv-axle can be removed without disturbing any adjustable bolts used for alignment 😃🔧
. Great video very thorough and detailed without a lot of unnecessary information.
Going to be replacing the bearing on a 2006 Hyundai Elantra. first time doing it, but after watching your video I'm confident it'll work out okay
Thanks for watching! Good luck on your bearing 😃🔧🔧
Come back please and tell us how it works
Nicely done, I wauchted a bunch of video on this subject but yours was by far the best one with detail and explanation. Thanks so much!
Wow, thanks! Glad to help out 😃🔧
I find it hard to believe you only have 16.6k Subs... You are awesome with instructions and great sense of humor! Thank you! 🌟😄🌟
Made my day 😀🔧😀😀
I have a 1999 Suzuki Esteem and both of my front bearings need replacement. Does the tools you mentioned work on my car. Thank you for the video and God bless you!
No problem. Glad to help! You have two different styles of bearings on your vehicle. Press in on the front. Single nut style for the rear. Rears don't require press in tools. The fronts are both press in and the tools and concepts should all work good for you. The press kit is universal 😀🔧
Thank you!
No problem. Good luck on your project 😃🔧
Really helpful video, although I already replaced my bearings I always wanted to see how does a Subaru is, and yes it’s different than most FWD car that requires to remove the hub outboard and the bearings inboard. Pretty nice job buddy.
Thank you! No problem glad to help
Tremendous tutorial ! Extraordinary detail !! Super helpful !!! I learned lots !!!! Thanks mate . 👊🏼🔥
Great to hear! Cheers mate 🍻😃
you can use bearing sleeve retainer compound to help the bearing slide in After the compound cures, you get better corrosion protection, and a more secure fit.
Interesting thank you! I have never heard of that compound before. I will check it out 😃
Best DIY car repair video ever... thanks especially for not wasting 45 seconds showing us the removal or the wheels... lol
Thank you!! Zoom Zooms on the wheel removals ✅😃😃
Great Tutorial!! lots of detail sir!! ty great tool kit for sure!! 100--100 As a master Mechanic, i noticed @920 you are using,looks like a regular socket... i personally prefer impact because of the high torqued required on this pulling,no matter what. been there once in my life....scary when these Silver looking sockets break (even Snap on) now i prefer safety. clean up rust around seal area "before hand"...I wouldn't personally hit any rubber seal with any hammer, just a point of view and a comment.. ty Sir. great video!!
Thanks! I agree with all your comments. I have broken both impact and non impact sockets. There is a more risk of non impact breaking for sure. Both socket type breakage can be really bad when it happens. They self destruct. Good call. I didn't have the impact style handy 😃🔧
Could you suggest alternatives for installing seals?
Also what does a master mechanic mean? Is that a real term where you’re from
I've done similar work on my cars before. I can definitely appreciate the presentation , details and tips shared on here. Good camera work too. Subbed.
Thank you! Really appreciate that 😀
Bravo! That was one of the best videos I've ever seen.
Wow, thanks!