2005 - 2009 Outback Legacy Front Wheel Bearing Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ค. 2024
- Overview of replacing a front wheel bearing hub assembly on a 2005 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Limited wagon.
OEM hub bearing assembly part number is 28373AG01A
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----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.---- - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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I am about to replace my son's 2008 Subaru Legacy SW left hand wheel bearing. As an ex mechanic I can say without a doubt this is the most comprehensive video on how to do the job correctly and with the least amount of fuss. Like many others have commented this will save me heaps! Even to the smallest detail in telling you what spanner and or socket is required and each step in marked as a chapter, very simple to refer back to. Much appreciated 👍👍👍
EDIT : Just replaced my wheel bearing without having to take the tie rod off at 4:56, or the top camber strut or the abs sensor. Yes it makes the wheel bearing easier to get at but I found it not necessary.
Thanks, I have to do this job and had heard this was not required. I bought a flex extension for my impact wrench in anticipation of working around the CV joint
This is quite possibly the most confidence inspiring video I have seen about working on cars. You made it seem so effortless and straightforward.
This comment ensured that I was going to get the help I needed from this video.
He makes it seem incredibly longwinded, cause you don't have to dissasemble half of that. So I disagree
WHY THE FUCK AREN'T ALL REPAIR VIDEOS ON YOU TUBE THIS GOOD???
SERIOUSLY.....WELL DONE MAN.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Bravo! this should be the template for all you tube tutorials. No horrible music , guided tours, or psyco babble.. Straight forward comprehensive video. Thank you sir
You're welcome 👍🏻
This was great, man. This saved me $350 in labor. Thank you so much for posting this and for including all the torque setting. So unbelievable helpful.
I just did this job, and as many others here have said it is completely possible to access the bearing bolts without disconnecting the knuckle or any other component. I just used a relatively thin-walled deep socket and pushed the axle back as far as it would go. Of course you can turn the wheel to get a better angle, but the bolts were not hard to get to. The old hub was so rusted on it took me 1/4 hour to beat loose with a sledge, but the bolts still came loose easily with a ratchet.
Man of many words 😜
Got me through the job, and brilliant to not have a TH-camr in love with the sound of his own voice
Amen Brother.
5 years later and still saving lives. This video made it a flawless process, other than 30min of me beating the piss out of my axle to dislodge it from the hub.
This is one of the best videos I have seen for replacing a bad wheel bearing!! Thank you so much for taking the time to put together a great video...it was much a appreciated. Also, it was nice to see a mechanic at work vs a bunch of "hammer slammers" that like to put their videos out on TH-cam.
Mine seriously started getting bad a couple days ago. This video was much needed.
You're welcome. 👍🏻
I'm glad you removed the steering knuckle, I'm replacing mine this weekend. You have the absolute best videos for repairs. Your videos make me glad that I own a Subaru!
Glad you enjoy the videos. 👍🏻 :)
Well presented and silent.
Perfect for the home repairer.
Good notes when needed.
Love the no bloody music.
Will be back.
Glad you enjoyed it. 👍🏻
Thank you brother for not playing loud music.
WORD. I just completed this job. The video is great.
I have watched about 6 of these videos trying to show the correct steps to do the bearing hub removal and refitting of a new hub. I have to say here that your video is the best, it is the most instructive and the clearest in method and the ease in which you under take the process of the job at hand. Are you a mechanic as you flowed through the process smoothly and without any talking at all. The sub titles were adequate and complemented your video nicely. Congratulations on an excellent video and I used YOUR video to do the job myself on my own Legacy. I loved the idea of removing the steering arm ball joint, none of the others mentioned this idea and using this idea I was able to complete the job even without removing the Upper camber bolt and its lower bolt. Easy peasy thanks very much. Love your selection of cordless tools as well made your job easier I bet.
I had a 02 OB that i replaced the bearing on. Press in bearings. It was a pain, took the spindle off and took it to a local shop to have them press them . I recently traded the OB for a 07 OB and im so thankful to see bolt on bearings, Ill be doing this repair soon, car has 123K it wouldnt hurt to replace them and the lower bushing. Thanks for the video, your channel rocks!
This is the first place I found with an explanation about the purpose of the center hole and how to safely knock out the axle from the hub assembly. THANK YOU MR SUBARU!!!!! I can finally move forward on my cv rebooting project. 💕💋
I've done boots before, but due to the value of my time, It's so much cheaper, not to mention easier to just replace the axle assy.
Excellent production, each operation is abundantly clear, as professional as the guy performing the repair.
First of all fantastic video. Why I am impressed: no commentary and quite frankly the video was done so well you really don't need it and the fact that you did all this on gravel on what seems to be the side of the road! I'm impressed. I'm going to tackle this soon on my 2011 Gen 4 Outback. I live in the country and my driveway looks identical to your conditions. Completely agree with OEM on this type of part. Nice work!
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video. It's actually my long gravel driveway here on the farm. Would be nice to have a shop and a concrete floor to film.
Re watched this over the last few weeks after putting off bearings for other fixes. had a humming sound figured it was not bearings; do to typical off floor running the wheels, checking for play at fixed positions. Replaced bad bushing control arms, felt better but still hummed. U joints and carrier bearing have too much play, replaced and went into reverse a lot more smooth but still hummed haha. Did the front bearings today and its gone; I assume eventually if ignored would have gotten louder and worse haha. always helpful content thanks
Thanks to your video, i was able to change the front wheel bearing hub assembly myself. Saved me tons of money and i learned quite alot by doing it myself. I did make a mistake though. I tightend the bolts for the hub to 80 NM instead of 65 NM. I hope that is not giong to bite me in the ***.
Thanks for you effort.
You're welcome 👍🏻
Just installed new wheel bearings today on my 2005 Outback. This video made it super easy. Thank you so much!
kinda nice that the hub is all one unit rather than having to drive out races and repack bearings and all of that mess.
I'm a big fan of your channel. I just did on my 2005 OBXT without removing the tie rod and the strut. Took me only 45 min... Lucky me nothing was jammed :)
I would never have attempted that myself until I watched this brilliant video.
Took me a while longer than 2 hours though, had some very stuck bolts which a 6 ft steel bar over the wrench fixed :)
Cheers mate, you saved me a ton of cash.
Great video. Very helpful. Looks virtually identical to the old Jeep Dana 30 until bearings I used to do (a lot). Nothing but talking from this guy!
Hey man I love you videos I cant tell you how many times you've helped me with my old 2000 Impreza rs
thanks for the upload man, very informative and you saved me about a 150$. first time ever getting past the calipers and the whole deal only took me 2 hours
Outstanding video. No time wasting chatter! Love it.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Going to be doing this on my 05 OBXT. Thank you for the detailed walkthrough!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Repair went off without a hitch thanks to your excellent walkthrough. Thanks again!
@@stevenborgogna you're welcome!
Just did this one myself. Great video.
One quick tip I found; those brake mount bolts were particularly terrible and obnoxious. Bad angle, stuck real bad.
Fortunately, they don’t need to come off, only the calipers do.
There’s enough wiggle room inbetween the bracket for the hub, brake shield and rotor to clear the axle. Then it slides right out once those 4 support bolts are taken out.
Reassembly is only slightly more annoying since you have to manually line up the brake shield and hub holes all at once with the rotor on. Not too bad though. .
Many thanks !!!!!!!!! - specially for the torques during reassembly.
There's no need to remove steering knuckle and strut. If you have long 14 mm socket, you can reach the rear hub bolts without removing suspension, makes the job much faster ;)
I do this to show viewers better in the video.
Great instructions!! Just followed the video and did it by myself. Thanks for the video.
On my 2005 Outback 3.0R I had to replace both rear wheel bearings. Bought it with 150k miles. At moderate speeds it sounded like a jet engine (above like 25-30 mph). At highway speeds we had to yell to have a conversation. I ordered 2 OEM Legacy/Outback hubs off Ebay for like 125 ea. I ended up getting the local mechanic to install it which was easier as they had a lift. The front is more complicated as the tie rods for the steering also are there whereas the rear only had the axles.
I was about to give up on this job...thing was stuck in the knuckle pretty bad. Can of penetrating lube later and 10 minutes of pounding - nothing (that's what she said). Cracked open a cold one, sat down and grabbed my torch. Gave it a few good smacks and it finally popped off.
Jobs like this never go this smooth at home LOL
great video. I always pop the lower ball joint stud instead of the strut bolts.
If you don't have a big nut smacker like the Snap-On Mr. Subaru has (or the 1/2" Milwaukee or similar), do yourself a favor and get the insert out of the wheel, put it back on with at least 2 bolts opposite each other, lower the baby back down and put your back in to it. I'm writing this because today I forgot, but had a screwdriver jammed into the brakes to immobilize, and it works! This was an American made Craftsman screwdriver, I'm sure Harbor Freight wont cut it. Didn't even bend a little!
Great work as usual. You make everything look like it's child play
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍🏻
I wouldn't have trusted jackstands on dirt ! But great video. Even though it had a shade tree mechanic feel to it, I can tell you know what you are doing. I really liked the way you held the rotor still while you torqued your axle nut. Great idea !
Yes, my friend's uncle died from a jackstand failing on dirt. Probably not a good example to set.. I hate to be a prick but this is an instructional video after all..
Great tutorial, some of those "specialty tools" used do cost a small fortune though. Not every backyard mechanic can afford them.
Thank you for your valuable information it has been very helpful
Impact is basically required if you live in the rust belt. Snapped two breaker bars and a socket on the camber bolt. Great video though!
Thats a mighty nice cordless impact you have there.
Thank you.
Wonderful! Really helpful!! Thank you.
You're welcome.
Back plates on many 2005 Legacy cars will be in very tender condition, especially in salt country. The perfect time to replace them is during this operation, or at least brush down both sides of what's left of them with some Black Star rustproofing or equivalent. I'll be replacing my back plates with each hub/bearing assembly as needed. My right front bearing is howling for attention as I write. It finally started making the alloy wheel warm in less than 30 miles. Time to park it 'til the job is done. I wish it were summer. I now see I could do this myself. I have all the tools and stands, but I'm also sure I'd use up some knuckle skin and get a little back stiffness in the bargain. Job security for our mechanic is a good thing.
Thanks for the video.
when i see the tires, I have the feeling that they look like a little turn of the cam bolt wouldn't have been a problem for them ;-)
very good video. i did this on my 2004 legacy today and was looking around for torque specs :)
I did the job without removing anything more then the caliper, and brakedisc. it is possible to get a 14mm socket on the bolts holding the hub and replace it without removing any allignment bolts.
I have a 2004 Subaru legacy wagon 3.0R needing to replace my front hub assembly are they the same ?
@@jessiahkraak2742 same model and year as mine, so should be the same.
How'd you manage that? Ratchet + extension?
more videos of this Generation model! only because i own one :P
Just got the title to the 05 LGT sedan in the background. There will be more. Has a rod knock, so we'll be going inside the EJ255 soon enough.
then Ez30 swap it with a 6 speed trans :P
Well I have a surprise planned for tomorrow, I think I'll be resurrecting my 95 Legacy, "Patches", and do the swap on my 2nd gen instead.
any thoughts on turboing the EZ? i cant decide whether turbo or supercharging.
Superchargers are bolt on. Raptor in Australia makes a kit. The turbo would be a one off fab. Ever seen Mighty Car Mods' Gramps project?
Thank you so much for this video, Mr. Subaru1387! Whereas I could not get the tie rod end to let go by hitting the knuckle or by tapping (gently) from the top, your video made the rest of my hub replacement process so much easier than the Haynes manual ever could. Speaking of the tie rod end - there was a little bit of grease that leaked from both sides of the car when I did this - is that a concern, or something I should disconnect my OCD from?
For everyone else out there (and perhaps Mr. Subaru1387 can chime in on this if he wants to do a PSA), I live in NJ and my bearings were the original ones (10 NJ winters) and no matter how hard I beat on the bearing it would not come out without the aid of a "Hub Buster", specifically the ATD Tools Wheel Hub Removal Tool, which did the trick with about 5 blows from a 4lb sledge hammer. Some folks on the internet have expressed concern about this tool causing damage to the axle, but so far so good on my part.
Thanks again, good sir - you saved my bacon as with a Covid-19 related layoff situation, I could not afford to have this job done by a Stealership, but it did afford me the time to get the job done right with the guidance of your fine video.
Nice work as ever, Query, distinct ridges on tone ring 10.33. old one. smooth ton ring on new one 10 54.
Thanks for making the video 👍.
Changed three of the wheel bearings on my car with no problems. The Front right however, two of the hub bolts are stuck on there.... ended up rounding 2 of the bolts. Just my luck. Going to try the blue shop towel method. If that doesn’t work, extractor socket.
Exeselet Job. And good video. Thank you for you help
Glad you enjoyed it. You're welcome.
You are the best in the West!!🎉 And all
Thanks for this video. I am anxious to see what other material you have up there. Anything for a noisy '97?
I just replaced a bolt in style hub assy in a 08 Legacy w/o removing the tie rod or axle from knuckle!
Same here, he removed way too many parts for just a hub/bearing replacement!!!!!
You realize I'm making a DIY video, right? Camera angles, showing parts and fasteners to people.. Come on now.
@@MrSubaru1387 Yes I realize that but a novice DIYer will think that it is necessary to remove all those parts just to replace the hub/bearing assambly. For what it's worth I liked you video & the way you presented the repair :) P.S. It must be nice to work on rust free parts !
@@MrSubaru1387 it does help to show what it looks like.
Nice video as always. Thank you. Looks much easier than the press in style of the older ones. You would normally change both, correct?
They are much easier to change. These are about $220 each from the dealership though. Press in bearings were $40 from the dealer. All about cost to install difficulty ratio. No, they don't have to be changed in pairs.
great video, thanks
Ruthless with the uggdugga wrench haha I’m spoiled too, but that abs sensor, I was terrified for ya lol
*Product arrived ahead of schedule🌗 **allabout.wiki/FrontWheel** was intact in packaging & my mechanic installed the parts without issue. The vehicle seemed to preform well after the installation & the ABS issue related to the sensors (old & rusty) was eliminated. Thanks Detroit Axle & Amazon!*
Great approach. I would be afraid of damaging/ shortening the life of that poor ball joint.
Nice job.
I have a question regarding retrofitting those newer hubs to the older the 03-06 Baja and 01-04 Outback, will it fit with minor mods?
Nice videos two thumbs UP
Thank you. 👍🏻
Very good viseo.
Thank you !
Nice work.
Thank you. 👍🏻
Hello from NZ
Your very skilled at ur work and I have 2 outback ez30s.. Thank I'll be subscribed to u now.. And the work u do is very motivating and encouraging.. Thank very much.
NEW ZEALAND supporter.. 😊😊😊😊P. S do u have shirts or jumpers?
Hi from NZ! I suspect my car's suffering from the same problem 😬 and I'm not sure the males in my household will be able to help assist me lol... So fingers crossed it all goes well! I'm wanting to attempt doing this myself. Any tips on what I should/shouldn't do? 😊
Great video
Thank you. 👍🏻
Great videos. Enjoy watching. Very professional. Any advise for getting torque specs for this job on a 17 crosstrek? Or are they similar?
Jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru
Would this be a similar way to change the rear wheel bearing assembly for a 2004 Subaru Forester??
I just replaced with moog replacement part and now I have check engine light on and other lights along with abs is this because I didn’t use OEM?
When you reinstall chamber bolt and align it up with the mark when it gets torqued down does that not change where it is aligned then im curious, great vid by the way if i need to change my bearings or axles i know how to now thanks to your vids 👍
Great video 👍
Thanks
The specs! The TORQUE SPECS!
I have a few question I would like you to answer. 1st I noticed you used snap-on, what produce would you suggest for a novice. 2nd what size bolt/ pitch did you use to remove the caliber. 3rd You used a rod or long punch between the caliber as you screwed in the center nut, then you removed it and used the driver wrench to tighten the nut then torpedo to set pounds. Why did you do that? In closing that was an excellent video. Looking forward to hearing from you.
Great video and I'll be doing this to my 08 Legacy soon. One question though, is it necessary to take off the spindle from the strut mount and tie rod end or could you do this while it's still all connected?
Its to get the axle out of the way so you can remove the bolts that hold in the bearing assembly.
Snap on boots and socks.... that's intense
I was a dealer for 4 years. Haha 😂 Snap-on belt as well.
you have hub rings on those wheels?. In your experience, is there need for them when you have after market wheels?.
I do not have hubcentric rings on these wheels. These wheels are lug centric, so they aren't needed.
Thanks
@@MrSubaru1387
I wish we had a dealer. We have a hard time keeping them. Been through six to eight in the 26 years I've had my current job. The route is a couple hundred mile long, though. Lost the last one about three months ago. I have broken tools and am hesitant to deal with Snap-On online. I broke the wrist pin on my 1/2" flex head ratchet and really miss it. Just need the handle and a new pin. The ratchet is fine. It's over a three hour drive one way to a city with a dealer.
A very helpful video.
I see some guys leave the camber bolts alone, and take the ball joint out of the lower control arm so they can get the CV joint and axle out before taking the bearing off with a slide hammer or hub buster. I take it you feel it is easier to disconnect the upper strut mount, because that way you don't need to fiddle with the lower ball joint? Or, do you do it that way because you have more room and a better angle to hammer the bearing out from the inside?
Subaru factory service manual states to remove the strut to spindle bolts, rather than the ball joint. I try to demonstrate Subaru FSM techniques in my videos. Removing the ball joint and pulling the assembly out also puts a lot of stress/stain on the strut and strut mount. Marking the camber bolt to the strut makes it easy to reassemble in alignment.
great helpfull video and great tools ,can i borrow them, ha ha
just had a rear wheel bearing replaced on 05 Outback. Knocked out the rear seal and it appears the grease was dry. No damage apparent in the race. Has anyone attempted to install a grease fitting? Seems like these bearings should last forever if greased?
Very good video. Mine has been bad for a while now. Could a bad bearing affect the ABS readings?
It is a possibility.
Thanks!
I just replaced the axel on my 05 Legacy GT wagon it was clicking and making as if something was moving back and forth when you turned or when you first started to accelerate. I replaced the axel because the boot was cut and there was no grease in there. I put an OEM Subaru axel. The car doesn’t shake but I still feel and hearing something when start to accelerate or turn. Could this be an issue?
Great video, thank you. Is it reasonable to assume the process would be very similar on an '04 Legacy wagon?
04 is a press in. Not bolt in. Have a video on press in bearings though.
I finally bought a floor jack like that (after giving away a cheap one) but I think I got it too short! LOL. barely if at all gets the wheels off the ground on my 2010! 😂😂
was going to attempt this job on my 04 legacy today but i don't own any power tools of any kind, im rocking old skool tool setup lol think i be getting my mate who is an actual mechanic to do this
04 is a press in. Only 05 up are bolt in bearings.
@@MrSubaru1387 mine are hubs same as yours
@@thezen8021 Australia? UK?
@@MrSubaru1387 yes mate, 2.5 auto saloon
@@thezen8021 yeah, like Japan, your model years are ahead of our USDM models.
Subscribed! Going to replace the RF bearing on my ‘05 L.L. Bean. Half shaft has a torn boot and is clicking, what brand would you suggest? I hear Subaru dealers sell rebuilt versions? Don’t want any vibrations. Thanks!
Subaru reman on the axle. 👍🏻
I suspect I have a bad wheel bearing on one of the front wheels. I hear roaring/whirling noise gets louder as I accelerate. The noise goes away only when turning left. I think the right front bearing is bad since the noise goes away with the weight off on left side when turning left. And putting more weight on Right side makes the bearing quiet. What do you think? I would appreciate any help/advice. Thanks!
One more question. I have to drop the trans pan on a cvt xv and the manual says just use 3 bond or equivalent ( ultra grey) but I have found an oem gasket. Should I use the gasket and ultra grey, just ultra grey or just gasket. Thanks as always.
Just the ultra grey is what I'd personally do.
Nice job bro like always hey do you have a video of the rear ones?
Thank you. No, sorry, don't currently have a rear wheel bearing video on anything except the 2nd generation Legacy / 1st generation Outback.
now try this with a rut belt subaru ... even my hydraulic press struggled to push it out of the housing.
Bro, I know it’s easier to get to by doing all of that but all you have to do is take the wheel and brakes and with the right extension take the bearing off. Easy peasy
You realize I'm shorting a video, and have to show people stuff, right?
Will those knuckles bolt onto an 04 Forester?
Hey MrSubaru my 99' Forester has been having a check engine light a P0440, I'm pretty sure it's an evap problem but i have no idea what it could be. I don't hear a leak in the muffler, and i already replaced the old filler neck with a brand new one. Any ideas on what the problem might be or how to pinpoint it?
P0440 is like you said, an EVAP leak. It could be a loose gas cap, leaking/cracked evap lines from the gas tank to the purge solenoid, drain solenoid, pressure control solenoid, a leaking fuel pump module seal, etc. Hard to give a clear cut direction on the diagnosis of the issue. Most EVAP leaks are from a loose gas cap. Other than that, you usually need a scan tool and smoke machine to locate the leak.
Once again, great timing, I need to do this on my newly acquired 2007 Outback. Two questions...do you really need to unbolt the strut from the knuckle? I just had it aligned! Also, I planned to buy a Moog or Timken bearing assembly but you recommend OEM. significant difference?
Just masses of reviews on both saying they're loud and don't last as long as the OE assembly. Also seen people have ABS issues without OE hub assemblies.
OE is NSK.
Cool. And does the strut have to come out?
Nope. Strut stays in, just as you see in the video.
I am in the habit of removing the lower ball joint stud instead of the upper strut to knuckle bolts so I don't force an alignment. I cut up an inexpensive ball joint puller so it fits over the Subaru lower control arm perfectly
Anyone know offhand what the thread pitch is on the bolts used to push off the rotor? Last time I replaced them I just hammered them off but will be reusing them this time around.
Very Nice. Thank you. I do have a question about how you feel about Timken bearing replacements? I know you recommend OEM, but would you consider Timken a reasonable substitute if availability/time is an issue?