Removing A Stuck Subaru Rear Wheel Bearing
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ค. 2023
- In this video I bring you along as I have tackle the most feared job of all rust belt mechanics. The dreaded Subaru rear wheel bearing. These things are perhaps the most seized bearing you can change. They rank right up there with the infamous Ford Explorer rear bearing. I'll show you the trick I use to get the job done in a short time and with minimum crying,
-Enjoy!
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Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Gulf Distressed Vintage Adjustable Snapback Hat: amzn.to/3XFelV9
Got one when I saw yours
I love your hat and I'm not cheap , but I can't bring myself to pay 27 bucks for a cap . But I just paid 3k for a new hunting dog lol
Great tip Eric. I admire the fact that your able to keep the "G" rating even when frustrated. Mine unfortunately is still rather "x" rated...lol👍
LOL, that went right over my head, I thought of something else. So I clicked on the link. I haven’t worn a hat since 95 when I retired from the army. Except a few times when I forgot to wear a ponytail while working with power tools. I had to wear one to cover my shaved head while working outside. ;)
@@kenj.8897 well, at least you wouldn't have to feed the hat.
I thought the most feared job of all-time was working the complaint desk at Dorman auto parts
😂😂😂
I thought it was working the service desk at the Kia/Hyundai dealership.
That bearing puler is a crazy price I will never buy one
You buy crappy Chinese parts you should be expecting crappy Chinese parts.
Man I could only imagine! What do you expect when you buy those dog shit parts but people are ignorant as hell so I could see that job being horrible!
Hey Eric, bloody top video, as a diy-er and a Subaru owner, I really appreciate this. I have decided that this is a pivotal decision point, and with the confidence you've given me, I have decided to sell my car and never look back.
this guy...
lmfaooo
😂😂😂😂😂😂
😂😂 it's not that bad granted I was working in a shop that was luckily in Florida and the ones I did I got lucky and they were almost to easy. At least give her a kiss good bye
Cake
Just did my daughter’s 2015 a week ago. Stumbled on this video by coincidence. I have all the tools at work, but had to do the job in my driveway (long story). Used a sledge hammer and PB Blaster. Hub came out. I’ve done many jobs like this, but this was my first Subaru. Wasn’t that bad. Maybe I got lucky.
Damn!!! Finally real world mechanic issues in a TH-cam video that’s short and sweet and to the point. Love it!
"if you can't weld good, weld a lot" Best line.
I liked the line as well, but that could also give birth to a lot of bad welders 🙂
@@RingZero you know what they say... The worst welders become the best grinders. People ask are you a welder? I say NO I can make two pieces of metal stick together but I'm not a welder
Measure with a mic, cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match.
The bigger the blob the better the job.
applies to tying knots too.
My welding motto (13:10) is "The bigger the blob, the better the job". :)
"Grinder and paint make me the welder I 'aint"
@@iskandertime747 yea real welders are proud of them beads .. not me
i use Dobby Don's welding and dog kennel .the bigger the gob the better the job.
My brother said that about a girl he took home one night.
YOU CAN WELD ALL THE BIRD SHIT YOU LIKE ,BUT ITS NOT HOW NICE THE WELD ITS HAVING GOOD PENETRATION THATS THE QUALITY OF WELD
He's telling the truth. I changed my entire wheel assembly myself, and it was painful. I started at 1 PM and didn't finish until 9 PM. I had to fight to get the tie rod off, then had to fight to get the hub off the ball joint at the bottom. A pickle fork is the most valuable tool to have when doing anything with the wheel assembly. I learned that the hard way.
Will I do it again? Absolutely. I now have the proper tools for the job and knowledge of what not to do. If the other bearing goes out, I think I can complete the job in an hour.
Those eight-hour learning curves Every. First. Time.🕰
"Do you wanna go to war, Balake ??!!??" Mr. Garvey is now a mechanic. Amazing.
As much as I appreciate Eric's videos where he tracks down electrical or engine or other complicated problems using schematics and detailed logical troubleshooting, I have come to love these banging and crashing heavy tools videos changing out major parts. Sort of therapeutic for some reason.
I'm disappointed if he doesn't use fire.
When I replaced the 5th wheel bushings on my Mack today it made me sad that fire wasn't required.
It's therapeutic for me because I would never attempt a wheel bearing (I'm 74 and brake jobs are my specialty) -- and I own a Subaru Forester. Mine is getting up there (2009, 183,000 mi) and probably needs new bearings all the way around. Maybe I'll drive it cross country and ask Eric to have a look...
Nothing better than that moment you’re hitting something that’s seized with a big ass hammer or impact and it starts to move. I mean there are more enjoyable moments but you’re not wearing pants for those.
@@dchawk81problem is that Plastic ABS sensor is not cheap and won’t come out without another fight. Also can’t cook the axle boot. To remove the axle you need to remove the control arms and the bolts will be frozen in the sleeves. This is a huge can of worms if you start going too ham on it. 😂
Thank you for continuing to share these videos, you’re a busy man and it’s appreciated that you take the time to record for the masses.
TH-cam pays more than the repair. he is a genious. in cars and in business.
Spot on! Spent the better part of a day trying to get the rear hub off a 2014 Forester. Then followed Eric's process with success
. Cheers!
I am a beginnerish DIYer. Tried to do this exact job with my buddy who has the same amount of experience. We used a slide hammer to successfully pull the front of the bearing off, but could not for the life of us get the housing separated. I called in support from my father in law, who is a big burly diesel mechanic. He brought air tools and an acetylene torch. Long story short, he couldn't get it off at my house, so he took the entire knuckle off and brought it back to his shop. He cut the housing in half with an acetylene torch and pressed the housing off with a press. I was out of a car for a week. He warned me TH-cam made it look easy but I wanted to try it myself...never again.
Good on your for giving it a go. Don’t know til ya try it. Next time it’ll go twice as fast! Don’t be a quitter!!
Subaru wheel bearings are well known in the shop, the rear ones will never come apart
the night before- remove ABS sensor - flood with penatrating oil of choice and let that sucker soak. it will go much easier the next day. (might still need to slam it/ use a puller) but it will at least have some lube in there already.
DO NOT! attempt front ball joints haha (also check out Mr Subaru)
Do they not have rear complete knuckles? Cost prohibitive? Might be easier and cheaper than a shop to go all new
Eric O , u are the best my friend!!! I am a Subaru Mechanic and almost always just remove the knuckle and press the bearing out with a shop press. At our shop we always replace the backing plate with the bearing so we don’t care that the press mangles the backing plate. U are 100% correct it’s not a job for the timid. The bearing just laughs at the tool known as the hub buster. Your method was also very effective and faster than removing the knuckle. Thank You for this Video.
You're going to look like a rockstar next week at work..😂
PUT THE TORCH TO THE HOUSING AND PUT 4 BOLTS ON LOSELY AND HAMMER IT OUT AINT ALL THAT HARD JUST GOT TO STOP AND THINK
@@allanfranco4464 Ope, we got us a thinker! And he loves to yell!
Lisle literally makes a hub pressing tool very similar to what he just welded.
Lisle 40100 Hub Remover was a fail. As was the hub buster .
A top flight diagnostician, a super sharp mechanic who figures out how to make things work, save time, and is willing to share his knowledge. That would be Eric O of South Main Auto. Well done sir.
I Stumbled upon your channel. I am impressed and horrified with the amount of rust you mechanics in the North East have to deal with. You guys are just Tough up there in the Rust Belt! Adapting, Improvising, and Overcoming! Carry On Sir!
And this isint even really rusted. Thats like standard everyday normal rust.
"An easy one"
Yes doing a show & tell helps much toward what mechanics do and the issues they must overcome on daily basis.
Yes, kudos for video presented and thank you.
For both vehicle owners' and more so for mechanics dedicated to quality works:
The issues are many, from design of mechanical assembly, how well it's made, redundancies for durability, serviceablilty, parts availability, mfgr/gov planned-obsolescence, costs of parts, etc. Then know-how, tools, equipment, critical thinking & creativity, patience to make reliable repairs / refurbishing works.
As to "Rust Belt" area 80% of contiguous USA and 90% of CAN achieve Rust Belt by "Official Political Policies & Practises" by govs' Towns, Cities, Counties, States/Provinces, applying Salts, NaCl, CaCl, MgCl, KcL, CMA, in Crystal forms, blends & brines, etc during each winter season. Millions of tonnes applied each winter.
They are all corrosive, deteriorate cars, trucks, roads, bridges, utilities, & all infrastructures causing hazards, perils, ruin, wastes, pollution, and massive costs/ debts plus interest / usury: aka Indentured servitude, serfdom, slavery.
Coupled with requiring replacement of cars, trucks, etc sooner/ faster and faster.
All under illusions of Salts assuring safety during travels.
If you like, learn more about road Salts. They have migrated/flowed and are in freshwater ponds, creeks, rivers, lakes, reservoirs, aquifers, and in drinking water.
If only a smattering of grease or Cooperslip was used while assembling at the factory, would save future humanity so much time...
@@okkromyep😊
Love watching a mechanic that knows his job inside out and works fast. Thumbs up !
OK, being a welder for many years and working for caterpillar. I wanted to suggest some things that with that would help out the viewers. If you’re using a 110 V welder and you don’t have enough heat to make it,say welding that heavy of a metal piece. What you do is take your torch and heat up the wheel bearing side to red hot and then make your weld. I hope this helps someone. Great video!
I'm a Subaru tech and we use a similar tool to the bolt on hub bar. It's a giant metal tube with a flange welded to it to attach to the wheel studs. It's very heavy and a bit ackward to install but it works like a hot damn. Also, it sounds like a gong when you hit it so we stuff a shop fender cover into it. Fun and games!
Lisle also makes this similar hub pressing tool as well.
You're the man. You're one of the few mechanics calling themselves mechanics.
Great tip, Eric O! I work at a Subaru dealership. We just replace the entire knuckle. I'm gonna try this trick and hopefully save my customers some money.
The new knuckle approach would be the fastest and cleanest is my opinion and least chance of a call back. I’m reading all the posts on the hammering and the bushings on the upper control and the trail arm will only take so much pounding . Thanks !
Very courteous of you to Fluid Film the new bearing, that'll make it easier for the next guy at Wilbert's to remove it.
Heh, given the rust most cars he works on don't last long enough to need this repair twice anyway.
@@jaturnley That's the joke. The next guy pulling this will be at the junkyard removing it for it's own car.
@@sebastien4565 Yep, Wilbert's is the junkyard - you have got to be hungry to use junkyard bearings ...
@@scottbaker9066 Hope I'm never that desperate (using secondhand wheel bearings.)
And still not a sponsor.
Just wanted to say thanks. I've saved so much money learning from you. Also, I've left your channel on autoplay in my living room tv and its like working in my own shop! The sounds of the ugga duggas, the air tools blasting, the sound effects, it's pure asmr for me !
I did this with my buddy today, and was absolutely amazed how stuck that hub was. We beat the snot out of the hub with a sledge, did a couple hundred whacks with a 5lb slide hammer, and hammered in a chisel from the side. When we do the other side I’m breaking out the welder!
I've seen this done so many ways and it never works out well but your way was absolutely the best, there was no trauma to the knuckle like I seen with other mechanics doing this.
For those who don't have a mig - If you only have a stick welder use a 6010 or 6011 rod and that will have so much penetration for the weld bead, even Tommy would be jealous.
And Bob's your uncle😄
7018 would be better for this application but your choice would work good to.
@@feetfats1 why? Personally I wouldn't use 7018. Its not fast freezing. The bead is wide. Its a bitch to restart unless you file the tip every time. Also 7018 doesn't penetrate for a deep root. It's why we don't use it for a root, only a cap. Also unless it's fresh avocado, hydro rods go south and no one is buying a bundle of hydro rods for 2.
@@bstamand1985 You're obviously not aware that 7018 is used for root & cap in other countries because 6010/6011 isn't available. It takes more skill to run 7018 open root than using a fast-freeze electrode 😊
@@feetfats1 Yes, 6013/7014/7018 can be used (low/medium penetration) hence the reason his poor quality MIG welds worked just fine.
Some people have no real world experience and apparently don't know that 6010/6011 welds are brittle when compared to 6013/7014/7018's ductility which comes in real handy when using brute force to remove things 😊
There's a reason 6010/6011 root passes are covered with a more ductile welding electrode material. Some people apparently think the world revolves around pipe welding 😉
I’ve spent 40 years turning wrenches……. You provide endless entertainment 😂👍
This September I will have 40 years as well and yes I find his videos both entertaining and sometimes I learn a new trick.
Done many of these using every method you could think of except that.Last one I did was in my driveway for my son in law after I retired. Took about 2 hours and he was amazed how frozen it was. I have 3 welders and never thought of using them. Nice work/idea.
I've done this recently and ended up resorting to using a set of chisels to separate the backing plate from the knuckle. It worked well and went quickly once I figured it out. All you need is a set of chisels of varying fatness and a small sledge. The suspension knuckle and the backing plate meet such that there is a V grove as the knuckle tapers to the meeting point of the backing plate. Find a chisel that is a bit larger in diameter than the V-groove. Spray the joint separation points both in back and front of the backing plate liberally with penetrating oil. Place the chisel on the side of the assembly opposite from the brake caliper mounting in that V-groove. Pound away with a small sledge until a gap appears. Insert fatter chisels as the joint opens and use additional chisels simultaneously along different points in the opening crack to provide more force overall without over stressing any single point. That joint won't take more than 5 minutes to crack open. And you won't damage the backing plate-it has a thick metal stiffener plate at the separation point that prevents bending. Be sure to grease or anti-seize the inner circumference of the bearing recess to make the job easier in the future.
Spot on. I actually have a set of cold chisels just for bearing removal. I also use SIL-Glyde for the pilot diameter just in case I end up doing it again.
You are awesome. I love your video's. I'm almost 73, retired for 10 years, mechanic and shop owner for 50 years. You remind me of the fun I had doing what I loved.
Kudos to you, Eric, for showing us how to "Do the Impossible" while maintaining your sense of humor and keeping it family friendly! We should contact Rainman Ray to see if he can adjust the "Tool Gravity" in you area 🙂
while welding on deez nuts
Truly an awesome method. I wish I searched up this solution *BEFORE* I tackled the job. Oh well, we got it done with your help. Thank you, sir!
If you don't have a welder, an even better way is to use an air chisel on the back side of the backing plate. Use the flat bit towards the top where there is a place to wedge the bit between the housing and the bearing hub which is about 3/8 of an inch wide. I fought one for several hours before going back to the drawing board and finding a TH-cam video which showed the procedure. MUCH quicker and easier than the welder!
Yeah I do the same. Chisel bit on an air hammer and get in between the bearing and the backing plate. The plate takes a bit of damage, but just hammer it out flat after and off you go!
Thank you! I'm about ready to flatbed my car to the shop. I'll try that!
How’d it go?
@@liberalsockpuppet4772 Did it work for you?
@@martyc5674 I ended up using a torch and 3 lb sledgehammer. Tbat did it.
Diyer here ...I used the wheel hub removal tool where you attach remover to the hub then used a sledge hammer on it. Worked out in a few bonks. I pushed the CV axle on the second one and it came out in 2 hits. I'm in NYC where we got salt but this looked a lot worse than mine.
Funny to see the exhaust hanger broke off . Subarus seem to have same common failures
You make hard jobs look so easy. I miss older cars so much. Was so simple to work on.
I was more impressed with how easily you put that e brake back together 😂 would have taken me half an hour
That's the different between a pro and an amateur
That is an amazing technique to remove that stubborn bearing. Great job!
We've done 4 of these in the past year, one was really low miles garage kept and came apart easy by Subaru standards. The other was not and did not. We took both our big bore air hammers and ran them to rotate the bearing in opposite direction from the other to spin it in the knuckle. Pushed it back and forth a few times then lined up one behind the knuckle to push out on the hub and it pooped right out. Other side slide hammered out once we spun it with both air hammers. A good alternate method if your welder sucks. We have 3 498 hammers in the shop, such is Chicago life! A tip on keeping your 498 pointed punches from turning into flat punches, I case hardened mine crudely with the torch and some used oil, it's held it's point for a long time now.
Would think all Master Mechanic's have their own method. Great video.
I do what you described. Works well.
@@robertfitzgerald3432 Absolutely
I love this guy. He is so damn funny. He is also one hell of a great mechanic too. Thanks Eric O.
2014 Subaru Legacy. Home Mechanic. Rear hub removed on drivers' side. Will do Passenger side next weekend. Man was this stuck. Even my rotor wouldn't come off without a 2-pound persuasion tool. Tried 1/2-inch bolt and nuts twice. No go. Stepped up to 5/8 and finally broke loose. Hammer then jack it out. Did that several time and success. Tried heat, slide hammer, your way is Medieval but EFFECTIVE. Seen several videos of different ways to do this but yours was right up my alley. Yes, a welder is needed, and some good air tools, but I have those tools so no problem. My battery powered impact wouldn't touch it either. None of the videos I watched were going to work on my particular situation. 127,000 miles and corroded terribly. Was quoted just at $1000,00 dollars for replacing both rear hubs by a local shop. Not sure if they would have completed it successfully without a much higher bill. I will at about $500.00 with new rotors, hubs, and pads for both sides. Good video, great technique on using the KISS principle. Wish me luck on the passenger side. The "if you can't weld good, weld a lot technique will be used. Good job.
STILL, one of the very best channels. He's the real Dominator. HUGE respect to Eric and family. :-)
Having done about 4 sets myself, 2 on my own STi, and 2 on Customer vehicles, I'm gonna have to work on trying this. I'm absolutely convinced that the rust holds those in there. The bolts are nothing more than place-setters or holding fixtures. The rust is what holds those in there.
The man making it easy and sharing his knowledge! Thank you for the entertainment and sharing da nuttiest way to get the job done!
I just got done pulling a rear wheel bearing on my 2018 Subaru. I'm in Michigan so it was plenty rusty. I bought some M-12 bolts and bolted the slide hammer to the front of the wheel bearing and smacked it out (after pulling the hub like you do in the video). I don't have a welder, so I had to make do. Took about 10 minutes of running the slide hammer to pull it out.
Now I'm watching the video again to figure out how to put together the parking break. Thanks for the great info. You saved me a bundle!
When you have the Knowledge and the ability to share it. Makes you a master craftsman. Showing us your little secrets make it even a great pleasure. Thank You so much.
Excellent video and strategy, Mr. O!
I was a Subaru dealer tech for several years in the rust belt of Chicago... We did many of these, and that was only on dealer-age vehicles. It was rare to see a 10+ yr/old vehicle like the ones you're always working on.
Our tool was the hub shocker type, bolted on to two of the lug studs, about a foot long striker plate hanging off the side of the car. You'd hit it with the "Purse" (read 4lb sledge) for upwards of 30 minutes sometimes, until it had finally started to budge, only to jam up unless you were gonna try to reset the tool onto another pair of studs somewhere. Yeah, good luck. Then, you'd go to town with Tha Dawg (air hammer) for another few minutes to punch it out the rest of the way and "selectively texture" the knuckle face as little as possible in the meantime....
Suffice to say, I am a big fan of your approach, Eric. I only wish they allowed us to have a welder for such things at the dealer...
I was skimming the comments for references to this method. Now I know it doesn't work on Subies.
If I still had a Subaru I would drive the hour and a half just to have your expertise do it and knowing how much joy you get from it
I'm 5 hours away, and contemplating driving out there for Eric to have him work on my Subaru!
He won’t work on your car. Doesn’t take new customers.
I’m only 36 hrs straight, I’ll just have to show my local mechanic the video, do it Eric’s way.
@@Paopolomolollhe doesn't take TH-cam customers
Genius! I can tell you’ve had your share of exhausting hours, trying to get these out. I’ve been there on jobs. Great method that you’ve come up with. I’d be crazy enough to try this in my driveway. Thanks great job. 👍
Great commentary , a skilled dude , sharing his knowledge freely. 👏 that's how it's done.
I generally use the Queen Mary and a chain to remove those Subaru bearings, but thanks to Eric O's ingenuity, I can do it the easy way!🤣 All kidding aside, GREAT JOB Eric and thanks!
Those disposable welding gloves work a treat
This is the same method grandpa c dub teached us youngsters growing up around the junkyard fixing all our own cars and trucks love it always remember the lessons from your elders! Love ya grandpa thank u !
Used car tech in Mississippi - did a pair of these on a Pennsylvania car. Soaked in PB Blaster overnight, then applied hammer to the side of the hub faces, same idea as jarring a tie rod loose from a knuckle. Managed to dislodge both of them somehow; they were rusty but not quite like this one.
A few months later we put a transmission in that car, thank goodness for extended warranty. It’s been a year and I see it around every now and again.
Here in Australia, we don't have too many issues with rust, unless the vehicle is a 4×4 driven on the beach, or cars that live near the ocean.
All we need to do is show the old bearing a Kangaroo or a Drop Bear and the bearing gets the F outta there all by itself🤣🤣🤣👍🇦🇺
DIYer here from Canada (Manitoba so we see alot of snow). Did this job a few years ago in my apartment parking lot with basic hand tools after watching you and a few others do it. A mechanic saw me struggling with it and suggested I use a chisel to wedge it between the hub and the back plate. Got it out after several hours and ended up mangling the back plate a bit but nothing a hammer couldn’t flatten out. Was the first “real” job I ever did on my car other than an oil change so it was definitely a struggle but I felt pretty damn good about myself when I took it on a test drive and stopped hearing that damn bearing roar.
You made a nightmare almost a walk in the park. I'm sharing this with my coworkers. These are about the bane of our existence. Always enjoy watching your knowledge.
Great job man. True mechanic figures out the easiest, most efficient way to do the task
Remember, if it ain't broke, you're not trying!
Most impressive wheel bearing hub removal I've seen. Another tool in my forever hate relationship with wheel bearing hub replacements. Thank you!!
Every time I watch these videos I’m so glad I moved from WNY and now live in Scottsdale, AZ. I remember trying to do brakes one Sunday afternoon on my old Honda and if felt like half of the bolts snapped off as a result of rust. I’ve had cars parked for a month outside and there wasn’t even rust on the rotors.
Man, I watch your videos and it is so relaxing. You know your stuff and nothing shakes your confidence.
Doing them in my garage at home without an air hammer, welder or torch in the rust belt i used a can of pb blaster, a 10 lbs sledge and about 2 hours of swinging at it for one hub to finally pop loose. Fun times.
For these, I use a slide hammer to pop the outer bearing race off, same as in the video, then use the slide hammer with bolts running through two of the four bolt holes that normally attach the bearing to the knuckle. Before sliding, cook the bearing housing with a hot torch to discombobulate the corrosion. If you left the speed sensor in (I don't), don't cook it, heat the opposite half - and make damn sure the axle is free floating or you'll rip the sensor in two. Slide hammer is weighted with two gym weights (total 24 pounds). A few HARD pulls and she's out. Wear leather gloves - weights like to pinch...
Edited to add: If you're doing this in your driveway, support the knuckle with a jack until the suspension compresses somewhat; things won't bounce around so much when you use a slide hammer or hub tamer. Probably puts more force/shock into the corrosion.
That would be my plan if I were to do one without knowing anything about them
@Slicerwizard, that sounds sensible. Frankly, I think I'd rather just dispose of this vehicle.🤣Seriously I wouldn't be surprise if the factory repair manual calls for removing the axle from the transaxle assembly, remove the knuckle from the vehicle and place it on the bench to perform the separation there. That way they can overcharge the customer for hours and hours of labor that really isn't necessary. I was once charged ~9 hours for "diagnostics & repairs" for what was less than 2 hours worth of work. Funny enough "new management/ownership" took over shortly after & they're trying to "re-earn my business". If you can help it, stay away from "stealerships" folks.
What area are you in? Slider hammers are usually a joke no matter how its placed on the part; the force he applied here with that bolt may be a ton at least. I think my solution would be to shift the wheel bearing by hitting it on the side and then use the bolts like to mention to apply the force against them. I'm sure Eric has done that but from my experience, it is easier to shift than to pull put as these wheel bearings tend to form ribs that won't allow it to come out.
I bet the heat from the welding plays an important part in the success of this method. Combined with the jacking force from the bolt it’s a knockout 1-2 punch. Great video! Thanks!
When I use a slide hammer I wrap and twist a tie down strap around the weight , leave some slack and pull on the tie strap , I get better leverage and force with out shocking my elbow and wrist.
Great video Eric! and Thanks. You introduced me to the Astro bolts for front bearings a while ago and have never used any other method. From my experience, applying anti-sieze on the "K"-nuckle/bearing mating surface helps a lot. Did bearing job on my own subaru 8 yrs/90k miles ago and when it was time to do it again last Dec, the bearing assembly came out as if it was installed yesterday. May not be the right application for Anti-seize but worked for me. However, the rust removal and cleaning was done to a point where the bearing would slide in and rotate but not press fit. If it press fits without anti-seize, then rust is inevitable. Just another DIY'er trying to save some money.
I have downloaded this video for reference just in case TH-cam/Google goes belly up in a few years 🙂
Refreshing to find someone that gets straight to the point with very good knowledge and proper advice. 👌
Clever trick my friend. And some of the best welding I've seen today.
Just another demonstration of inventive thinking, and use of cheap materials to achieve a consistent result in adverse conditions. Eric, your thinking process is priceless, and thank you for sharing your experience and skill for all to learn from. Nothing wrong with your welding, it worked!
Awesome job. Love the creativity. I just changed the all 4 wheel bearings on my 2015 RAV4. It went surprisingly well!
wow you sir are a true mechanic.its crazy watching an experienced mechanic that knows all the tricks.really impressive skills brother
This is exactly what my 2013 Outback needs, and I am very afraid
junk yeard time
Nothin' to it, just do it!
If Eric can do it, YOU can do it!👍
@@xlandros If Eric can do it and you live close enough you might better let him do it for you.
I’ve done it myself. I do have a slide hammer and did pull the bearing apart like he did. I don’t really remember how I got it apart after that but am pretty sure it involved cussing. This would’ve been much easier and I have a welder, just didn’t think of it.
been doing this trick for a couple of years and never fails!
geez - i love the "the welding setting is NUCLEAR" very cool of you to share hard earned methods
By far the worst rear wheel bearing that I ever did in my life! Just finished a 2014 Outback from Pennsylvania using your hack and still was hard to remove! Thanks for all your videos you have been a big help on more repairs than you'll ever know.
Another great job. I wish every mechanic was as professional, educated, and honest as you!!!! You amazingly make everything look easy!!!!
As the official bearing aficionado of this channel, I love this bearing video. Thanks for bringing us along, Eric!
The most entertaining mechanic on the Internet! Great video, thanks!
Takes me back to the Subi dealership. Guys were actually super happy to get these (assuming they were cash and not warranty, which they were for the most part) because they paid so well and because of the method. We just took out the speed sensor, didn't even move the parking broke, and basically hooked up a big L-shaped piece of steel to two of the studs, then proceed to whack the everliving **** out of it with a sledge until it came off. It was a badge of honor as a new kid to get one of these off yourself and the whole shop would start teasing you/cheering you/jumping in if you had one that was really stuck. GRANTED, this was in New Jersey and not on the coast so I could see some being impossible through this means depending on the amount of rust.
Damn that was impressive. Never thought of doing that. Last time i did that for my wife’s car i just used a torch and hammer until it cracked loose. Took forever though. This is way cleaner, deff doing this next time 😁
Interesting approach. I do many of these Subarus. I bought the bar that bolts onto the hub face. I count the blows with the 8 lb sledge hammer and I have never exceeded 20. I was a bit surprised that the bearing came out of the backing plate with so little work. I usually have to resort to heat and hammering. I found out about the bar from a friend who is a Subaru service manager.
Hi, please can you put a link where to buy the bar, I'll like to have it handy in my arsenal incase I run into one, thanks in advance.
What bar!?
@Paopolomololl Hi, I was actually asking eldoradony the question since he's the one that mentioned the bar.
After thinking about it for a minute I think he was referring to the Hub Buster bar which I already have.
welded triple nut , pure experience genius ! and heat is always our friend ! Awesome job as always.
i will say this..those gloves your wear are AMAZING!! all that heat..no melt!
I am really glad that I watched this after I changed mine on my Subaru. I was really lucky. I live in West Michigan also.
Thanks for your wisdom, Eric.
I noticed you placed the bolt opposite the speed sensor, excellent man you think of everything, most of the time. Another excellent labor saving video as usual!
Ok this worked for me with my wife's 2015 Subaru Impreza. It didn't pull it from the knuckle as easily as in your video but it did break it loose enough to work it out with an air hammer easy enough. Thanks for the great video and this saved me hours if not days of work.
That was oddly therapeutic and eminently satisfying to watch. Love your channel!
Eric I wished you posted this 3 weeks ago. I spent 5 hours trying to break loose the bearing in my 2009 forester. I used the bolt forcing trick, air hammer and lots of beating.. ended up taking the knuckle out and placing it on boards and hammering it out. Once the knuckle was out it wasn’t too bad to hammer out.. if I would have taken the knuckle out right away it would have saved me 4 hours… thanks for this trick adding it to my bag of tricks for next time
Those snap on needle nose pliers are awesome. Love mine. Those Subaru rear bearings are easier than the older explorers with independent rear suspension. No one changes them till they have baked onto the axles
That was great, Eric O. The one thing I learned on the easy ones was check the tires really good when the customer swears it's his wheel bearing.
This was a hard one on this video.
The rear disc model.
You amazed me, and saved me from getting up to my Al in assigators.
I noticed your braces or retainer I havent been watching as much recently as I have been the last year or so and I gotta say I think thats the greatest indicator of your success. dental work isnt cheap and when you're paying for, possibly, cosmetic work that really shows how far you have come. congratulations on your success on youtube and in your shop you deserve it!
Yup. The MIG welder is a most useful tool for enabling out-of-the box solutions like this. I’ve used mine for similar tasks on multiple occasions.
I used to use my mig until it got flood water over it threw it uot after that didn't want to run the risk of being welded to it myself LOL.
@@LesReeves That’s a shame that you had to throw it away. If it was submerged in fresh water there might have been a chance to clean it up, dry it out, and use it again. Of course MIG welders span a wide range of prices. There are some ridiculously cheap units sold at the big box stores and they might not be worthwhile trying to repair. But the commercial units like I have in my shop are probably worth taking in for service or even drying it out yourself if you or someone you know is comfortable with electronics.
You sir are the Subaru wheel bearing removal whisperer. 🤯 When I was young back in the later 1960's-early 1970's I used to hang out at a car repair shop and this awful to do job reminded me of tryng to remove the tapered hub and brake drum assemblies on Chrysler branded cars of the late 1950's-early 1960's as usually involved heavy slide hammers or ones where had to hammer on a threaded thing to get them even loose.
living in the PNW i dont have any rust issues, but this is a good tip to consider if i ever have to re do the rear bearings again. i was able to sucessfully use two of the mounting bolts to hammer out both sides of my rear bearings with ease. the hardest part on one side for me was getting the dang brake rotor off. i did not have access to air or an air hammer when i replaced it in my uncles garage the last time i did a rear bearing on my 09 outback.
Best mechanic I’ve seen on TH-cam, unreal
Eric, you are sure a conscientious mechanic. I sure wish I lived close to you so you could do all my vehicle work. Keep it up!😊
Yeah I get these almost weekly here in CT. No welder aloud at firestone but the sledge and air hammer always gets it done.
Is it just as difficult on a 2000 outback?
@stevemurray710 I would say the newer are harder to get out. If you end up having to remove the whole knuckle on that 2000 though be ready to fight those long knuckle bolts. Having a hub remover/installer like the astro 78825 will make quick work of the older ones.
@@RulethenightGaming I don't think the 2000-2004 has the long knuckle bolts so I might be lucky there.
Here's one more hug for you from Northern Ohio 🤗. Wish I'd tried this method first, but it seemed a little extreme so I tried about 5 or 6 other methods first and all I got was bloody, bruised and exhausted. finally tried this one and was immediately victorious (although I doubled it up and put one bolt on either side). 3 bucks worth of nuts and bolts from home depot was all it took. Thank You Thank You Thank You.
Having just done one in my driveway a couple months ago, I fully agree with the fun factor of removing rusted-in Subaru bearings. I used a 3 ft pipe wrench and barely made headway. Next time, I'll do it your way!!
I did the rear wheel bearing on my 05 Legacy, and for some reason, I don't remember it being difficult. I live in the northeast so lots of rust. I think I just used a BFH and beat on the outer hub flange and used a little heat and of course, the WD40. Thanks for the videos, you are a very talented mechanic.
05 is different. These are the 13+
I have just recently come across your videos 2 months ago. It is a joy to watch and thanks for sharing your experiences. Good to see you truly troubleshoot vehicles.
I followed this just as shown, it went just like yours, initial pressure broke the front weld, I added more weld and turned the bolt and it started coming out. I would leave pressure on the bolt and smack the bearing housing with a 1 lb hammer and give the bolt a couple more turns. Smack turn smack turn, this was a little scary but it came out pretty straight forward. Big Thank You!