I've gotta say the most impressive thing about these videos is how nice the shots are. They're not crappy and out of focus or barely showing where youre at on the car. Good job!
Thank you for not making your video twice as long by making us watch you break nuts and bolts loose. Thank you for not playing loud circus music throughout video. Thank you for not explaining your theory of the universe to me. A rare, well shot, perfect info only post; TY TY
I've saved over $200 just in my first month of having a Forester, thanks to your videos. There's also peace of mind knowing you did everything properly, unlike some bad workshops.
Just wanted to say thanks. As I'm a visual/hands on learner, by you not talking actually helped me retain the info better as hearing to a visual learner screws up the right and left side of the brain leading to confusion. Subscribed!!
You make videos the way I like, no BS, direct to the point and no other waste of time. Thanks! My rear diff just started to whine, I'm a little P.O. cause it is barely outside warranty. I'm now debating if I do like you and get a used one, or tear apart and rebuild it myself.
Great video! One recommendation though, I always put my jackstands on plywood cut twice as large as the jackstand only when working on dirt or gravel, keeps things from shifting unexpectedly.
I thought the same thing when I saw that cross bolt come out! I was like Oh hell no, ain't no way that came out that easily, he already used a breaker bar on it unless... he just abracadabra'd it? LOL Just replaced my rear wheel bearings and it must have taken me a solid 15-20 min either side getting the suspension knuckles off because those bolts just did not want to budge...
Concise, to the point, all the needed information, and I have to reiterate what was already said, the clarity of your video shots and angles are second to none. I have been wrenching on all of my vehicles since I could drive. If I would have had more videos to guide me like the ones you make, I would have had A LOT less headaches and would have saved many hours of my life and spared myself many frustrations. The long and short is, we appreciate you my guy. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!
Your detail and effort are impressive, and that's why I love this channel. Subaru owes you, because I keep buying Outbacks since I know you've likely got a repair guide for most common issues.
Just bought a 95 impreza swapped with an 03 ej20 going to need help and I'm glad you're here making these videos. Def makes me feel more comfortable with it
I have a project STi that Im working on currently. The rear diff is leaking from somewhere because the back plate is all caked with dried residue. This video could not have come at a better time!! Thank you for posting. ~Cheers!
Hey MrSubaru1387 good video. This video helped me with some work I was doing to my differential on my 2007 Subaru Legacy. I too had a lot of backlash after watching this video that I was concerned about. My bearing caps on mine were broken around where the 5 M8 bolts go in on a lot of them. So I changed them out with new OEM ones. I did come to the conclusion why the backlash was so excessive. The aluminum bearing caps and the difference between material (aluminum and the cast) steel created corrosion between it and the shims thus increasing the backlash. I cleaned up the shims and all the mating surfaces and replaced the bearing caps, and now it’s a lot better. A little back lash but nothing like it was before. I would say it’s around factory spec of .007.
I thank you so much for this video. I realize it is an older video but it has helped me tremendously. I am currently ground up rebuilding a forester with a part out outback and I have never done any of this before. So thank you very much.
Thank you. Very informative. You have been dealing with your rear suspension before i guess - getting that long lateral link bolt out that easy. Mine were rustwelded inside the two bushings.
Great vid bro ... Have to change out a rear dif on my 2010 just did the trans last week the rear gears were so bad trying to get home it fried the trans ... I have 200k on car n motor but found a trans and rear dif and driveshaft with only 44k on it ..replaced both front axles when did the trans now I will replace the rear too when I do the dif thia weekend ... So EPIC video bro thanks so much for sharing thats exactly what my rear sounds like it what destroyed my trans as well ..light and love n many blessings to you and yours keep up the amazing vids please
I know this is an old video but I want to say 1) this was well shot, and 2) it's nice to see someone actually working outside on gravel like I have instead of in a wonderful garage. I don't have power tools, though. Good job! Very informative. I wonder how heavey that thing is?
love your videos im from argentina and i hace a subaru outback 2.5 1999 and all the thinks I have done to it is because of you thanks man don't shop making videos 💪💪
I like how this video popped up in my feed as Im just getting ready to replace my rear diff. Just did a transmission swap, turns out the final drive ratio is 4.44 in the new/old trans I installed and my original rear diff is 4.11. Gotta match those suckers…
Redoing the work someone else did on my clutch a few months ago (it seized up) and it took me a minute to figure out why the drive shaft was being such a PITA to get loose from the rear diff. The previous "mechanic" put the lock washers under the bolt heads instead of the nuts. Undid the whole purpose of the lock washers and the flat spot on the bolt heads. The bolts were all splayed out and the threads were trashed by the time I got it out. SMH - time to order parts...
Thanks for the video, made the job fairly easy. But... I missed the comment about seating the CV joints into the differential until they engage the C-clip. They'll go in almost all the way, and look good. But when you drive the vehicle, eventually they'll slide out about half an inch, and then that wheel is spinning free. All you notice is that the car suddently acts like the clutch is slipping. Easy to miss this step and difficult to diagnose once it's all together.
just got mine out only to learn ill also be doing all 6 control/trailing arms, brakes, bearings,ujoint, was happy to see metal chunks in the diff plug though
2:57 - Oh my, I LOL'd at this so hard: It took you about 2 seconds. Up here in rustland (Canada), each bolt would take over an hour *IF I'M LUCKY* with an impact, air hammer, and about 1 full can of PB blaster (worst case the bolt is so rusted to the knuckle that it breaks off and I have to remove the whole knuckle and drill it out). :-D
I live in New York with rust is bad I can't get my rear bolts out of my spindles when I change my axles or my rear I just dropped the rear and the axles fall out and then I I put it back together like that never taking apart the spindles
THA NK YOU EXCELLENT VIDEO!! in order to replace the differential bushings, can I leave the rear axles in the differentials and lower the differential with a jack, out of the way to remove the old bushings and install the new ones, please? Thank you!!
To replace the inner retaining clip ring in the differential, is it best to remove the bolts on the side of the differential where the axle goes into the housing to replace the ring?
Hello, great videos have helped a lot, i was wondering if there should be any movement to wobble the cv cups where they slip into the diff? And would that cause early wheel beating failure due to vibration and such, ,thanks
Hello. Symptom on a 2005 manual Forester. Wheel slippage/AWD shudders in tight corners near full lock. I think it is the Torque Bind in centre diff that may need replaced? It's called viscious coupler in USA. Do you need to remove the rear cross member to replace centre diff? Or can it be left in place?
My passenger side cv axle popped out on my 2013 outback 3.6R, and my transmission light temperature went on. I heard vibrations, then i put it neutral and pulled over. Suburu dealer said I had to replace the transmission and differential estimated 9k for repair. How could the transmission be damaged so much by the differential?
I have a a 2001 outback that has an RPM dependent high pitched whine, I replaced the manual trans as it was failing anyway and it didn't go away. Its only there under full throttle from about 4.5k rpm up...
I first off want to thank you for your videos, they've aided me considerably in many projects I've done with my 2004 outback H6 a/307,000m, still runs well for what you'd expect from the motor; weeping head gaskets, little bit of timing chain music at idle. My question I want to ask is, how would you go about freeing up the fill and drain plug on the rear diff? I tried on jackstands, with a ½ breaker, and working it minutes on end with a Mac tools air impact with absolute zero movement. I applied PB a good few times, tried to torch warm up around the plugs, nothing. I haven't tried to use a floor jack on a breaker bar, which did work on the rear shock bottom bolts(a jack supporting the shock a little for center made those bolts slide right out), and a axle nut, I'm just afraid of stripping it out, or cooking the gasket and having to pull the whole damn thing out. It's a colorado car, and only surface rust on bare metal a touch, very clean/solid for 19 years old. Thanks for your time, I know you get a lot of time bandit questions, and this one probably being one too.
Still, thanks for the video. I pulled a diff from pickapart successfully. For me, I ended up disconnecting both the lower arms going to the bottom of the spindle, but it was way easier to disconnect the inner bolts. I also disconnected the strut from above (much easier to remove) and disconnected the ?sway bar?. I didn't have to remove the wheels (the donor car at p-a-p had the wheels locked).
15 Impreza 102k miles. I have rear noise at speeds. Not a wheel bearing or bad tire. Sounds just like a wheel bearing. I have side to side play on the axels where they go into the rear differential. Both sides have side play. Is that normal? Main pinion bearing seems solid, no play. Thoughts? Thank you.
Hello ... I am not a DIY type ... but I was thinking of doing some hiking / camping mountain trips in my 2013 Forester. For the stuff I want to do I think it is more than up to the challenge. I recently had to replace rear brakes (very low mileage at approx 50K Km). I suspect issue is with using ABS system for years on icy roads etc. If I wanted to have a mechanical LSD installed on rear and maybe front is it recommended ? I don’t want to spend $50K on a Tacoma.
my 2009 NA Forester needs a new rear end. a 2011 NA Imprenza is being parted out and I can have it’s rear end. are they the same, or how do I find out?
Very well done and demonstrated, thanks! I have a 2013 Crosstrek and my rear differential cover (the part that has the fill and drain plugs) is cracked just underneath the drain plug. Do I need to take off the whole differential to change the cover or can I change it with the differential in place ?
You will need to drop the diff to be able to get the cover off. The cover bolts to the rear crossmember, making it basically impossible to get off while in the vehicle.
Hearing a rather loud rear hum in the rear of my 2005 Outback 3.0R. This might be the issue. Amazing detail and very well filmed, thank you for sharing :)
Question..own a 2004 forrester xt..run well.. when i try tight turns the rear end seems to jam ,, rattles and does not operate smoothly... no problem when i go straight.. what could it be..??
Hey there i have a 5-speed manual 2004 Impreza Outback N/A that i bought for my son as a first car. Test drove it for 500 miles and it seemed fine. Tagged it for legal driving and 200 miles later i have some kind of binding click noise that happens randomly, but more often when the tires are operating on muddy snow terrain. I can feel the clicking in the stick shift handle. The tranny gear oil was about 1.75 qts low. I filled it and sound is a little less present but still present. Is the center differential lubed by the same gear oil reservoir as the manual transmission? What do you suggest to do? Thanks!
mr. subaru, you rock. your vidoes have given me confidence beyond belief. wish you were closer geographically for future major repair service. have a 2009 tribeca. replacing rear diff - front member. 4 bolts. simple, right? any techniques or procedures regarding this? support rear diff with jack, remove and replace? can't wait for new content. always appreciated!!
I just got a 2005 impreza outback sport and with the help of your videos been servicing it including replacing the diff. It runs good but when driving down the road the tires chirp like if accelerating from a dead stop then after 10 to 15 minutes the awd light starts flashing, just replaced all the tires, I was thinking maybe the axles or an axle are binding but really have no clue, idk if the old diif damaged anything when it failed/ locked up. This is my first subaru so any help would be appreciated. Also would driving it in a tight circle alleviate binding if thats the issue?
Subaru man I have a question I have a 1997 Subaru Outback limited and I've heard a grinding when turning so I replace the two front axles to no avail the noise seems to be coming from the back axle somewhere when turning Sharp what would you say that is could it be the gearbox
Idk if you or anyone can help. I need a differential. I have a 1997 Impreza Brighton 1.8 Mantual transmission. The diff has " va1rbf-xf" and I cannot find any used or new ones. Is there another from another subaru that could fit it too? Thanks
Hello friend, what is the relationship between your front differential and the rear one for which you changed? To have a notion since I have two automatic gearboxes that have the same 37/9 tooth ratio in the front differential but where it varies is in the rear differential since one has the 37/9 ratio and the other has 40/9. one box is from 1996 and the other from 2000.
Thanks for the video. I'm having a hard time putting the half shaft back into the differential all the way. Is there supposed to be a retainer clip on the end of the spindle? If so, wouldn't seem to be a reason for it not being able to go in all the way. Suggestions?
There's a clip on the end of the axle. It may have popped off the axle and be inside the diff. This can prevent the axle from seating in the rear diff fully.
Great video, my diffs just blew apart yesterday. Habent got to look at it yet with this weather so not positive yet if it's the front or rear. If it blew out good can I expect damage to the axles too? Also, does unbolting the shock mount our anything involved with the job effect the alignment as i just had 1 done 2 days prior to it breaking.
I have a problem with my Forester. A few months bad I had the dealership change my diff oil as it was in for another repair. When I got back the car. There was a noticeable whine coming from the rear and a jerk when releasing off the accelerator. The whine also stops when releasing the accelerator. I swapped out the oil for 75-140 and the jerk feeling stopped by about 75%. I then swapped out for 85-140 and I haven't really felt it since. The whining noise is still there though. Is the diff on the way out? The oils where both changed in front and rear
Yeah I'm going to change it back out this week. Last week I put in the 85-140. Gas consumption went to the dogs with that. Would all those symptoms be the rear diff? Or the drive shaft also?
hello mr subaru, greetings from chile, I have exactly this sound in my 2009 impreza, the mechanical gearbox oil was low, now that the sound has been filled up, it continues, I would like to know from your experience if it will only remain as an acoustic nuisance, or does it mean that they are coming more expensive problems? Can I continue using the vehicle normally for a few more years? Or should I change the differential or box in a mandatory way? greetings from Chile !
Can one assume that lifting up on the differential "on most vehicles" is safe. i.e. crack the housing. Is the Subaru aluminum? I would like to lift my AMG like that and put "race ramps" about an 1/4" under all four tires just in case. Safety. I need the whole car off the ground. The only other alternative is four jacks at the tire change lift points or jack stands which I have avoided up to now because I don't want to damage the undercoating.
Subaru diffs are steel with aluminum rear plates. Subaru states the rear diff is a lift point for the car. No idea on the AMG. I'd assume it's safe, but won't say 100%.
When I investigated it quick I noticed the filler plug on my diff was leaking a little. I checked the oil leave and it didn't seam low at all, but I drained it and put in new 75w90. The condition of the old oil looked good. Good viscosity and looked clean, very little metal on the drain plug magnet. Still the same noise though.
What about a whine in rear when only using the brakes. I checked the pads and they where good. The noise only happens when braking and the harder I apply the brakes the quieter then whine gets.
+Wolfy1091 a whine that only occurs when the brakes are applied has to be brake related. Pad ears greased? Caliper pins greased? Rotors checked for warpage?
AWESOME video MrSubaru! But I have a question. I have a 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i. In your video and on many others, at the end of the axle that goes into the differential there is a slot for a retainer clip... but no visible clip. Does the clip stay inside the differential? I am having a terrible time trying to get the new passenger side half-axle to snap back into place. I wondering if the retainer clip has fallen off or something and is preventing the axle from going in ??? Reponses from you or others will be welcomed.
There should be a C-clip on the end of the axle that goes into the diff. Sometimes it gets stuck and doesn't come out with the axle. Shine a light inside and see if you can spot it.
Great video. My son and I are having an issue with the front mounting plate (the one with the 17 and 14mm nuts). The bolts (studs?) Are spinning. How would you get it out?
bought 2 used ones 1 had 80,00 miles on it and the other had 6,000 miles on it both whined so i bought a brand new 1 directly from subaru for $717.00 and it is starting to whine as well although not as loud as the other 2 but it's doing it right around 55 mph i'm at a complete loss literally pulling my hair out i'm so frustrated at this point i'm just ready to dump it
might be the fuel pump.. mine has the whining problem, and one mech said it might be a fuel pump while another talked about the diff.. worried which way way forward
@@dennismuthai9234 My whine ended up being a RR wheel bearing, after I got it replaced the service tech. just said for some reason the rear wheel bearings seem to go out around 50k. Got it back all was great for about 2 weeks then about a week ago the noise returned similar to how it started the first time. So I'm assuming its the LR wheel bearing this time. I haven't set up the appointment yet but will call them next week to set it up. I own a Forester.
Hey Mr. Subaru 1387 you seem like the perfect guy to ask. I have a 2016 Subaru Impreza with 90,000 miles on it. I discovered some oil leak spots at the rear of my car where I parked it. Do you think it could be a leaking axle? I’m trying to figure out exactly what it is so I know what part or parts to order.
I have a 2002 Subaru Forester S model, is my rear differential gear 4:44 limited slip or open? I found a 4:44 cheap and trying to make sure it will fit. Thanks again for the replies.
So I did this replacement thanks to your video, the shudder driving straight is gone. But now turning at low speeds I have a torque bind issue! Where should I start now?
The rear differential in my 08 WRX sounded nothing like that. It sounded more like the clicking you hear when going up the first part of a roller coaster. It finally broke when taking off from a stop light.
hey, i got the a 2003 legacy saloon 3.0R and was wondering if the torque needed to close the bolts is the same, and allso wanted to ask if the estate 2004 and saloon have the same differential. thanks for the video :) much appreciated
Torque needed to close the bolts? If the sedan and wagon (estate saloon) have the same engine and transmission, then the rear differential gear ration should be the same.
Thank you very :) by torgue to close bolts i meant to ask: you have used a torque meeter on the video to close the drive shaft bolts and a few more, do i need to tighten everything with a torque meeter with specific strength?
allso, two thing i cant seem to figure out is..1st: does the 30R use LSD? or is it only the spec b? secondly, i got this esp off button on my left, does it mean i got vdc or has nothing to do with it?
Mr Subaru, have you ever remove the rear subframe? I am removing the subframe of Outback 00 and the front bolts of subframe are very tight, firstly they turned very easy but later started to become more tight, it seems that there are some dust in the cavity that the nut attached to the bodyframe, there is no rust, the threads are very clean, but I dont know how to access to oil them with wd40 or similar to help remove them, do you have any tip? thanks a lot.
I haven't had to remove a rear subframe. Unfortunately I don't have any tips or tricks on the subject. Just be careful. Definitely don't want to strip out break off a subframe bolt.
if you replaced the pinion bearing will it work good again ? or it is not worth fixing? i see there is no adjustment for it unlike the front differential
I was wandering if the 2000 to 2004 outback rear diff. gear ratio is the same for auto and manuel? I looked at the model number on the top and its the same.
I've gotta say the most impressive thing about these videos is how nice the shots are. They're not crappy and out of focus or barely showing where youre at on the car. Good job!
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
@@MrSubaru1387 would bent pinch welds collapse if used ?
That's the only thing I'm looking for in car videos honestly
Thank you for not making your video twice as long by making us watch you break nuts and bolts loose. Thank you for not playing loud circus music throughout video. Thank you for not explaining your theory of the universe to me. A rare, well shot, perfect info only post; TY TY
I've saved over $200 just in my first month of having a Forester, thanks to your videos. There's also peace of mind knowing you did everything properly, unlike some bad workshops.
Just wanted to say thanks. As I'm a visual/hands on learner, by you not talking actually helped me retain the info better as hearing to a visual learner screws up the right and left side of the brain leading to confusion. Subscribed!!
Glad you enjoyed the video! Welcome to the channel!
I have a lot to do on my $200 rally car project. You will be MOST helpful.
You make videos the way I like, no BS, direct to the point and no other waste of time. Thanks! My rear diff just started to whine, I'm a little P.O. cause it is barely outside warranty. I'm now debating if I do like you and get a used one, or tear apart and rebuild it myself.
Great video! One recommendation though, I always put my jackstands on plywood cut twice as large as the jackstand only when working on dirt or gravel, keeps things from shifting unexpectedly.
+Al Bundy hopefully I'll have a nice concrete floored shop with a lift or two again soon.
I do this too. Also good idea of you have a paved (asphalt) driveway. That way your jack stands dont sink down into the asphalt on a hot summer day.
The things u learn on these vids rocks. Thank u
First time in my life I'm seeing a spindle bolt come out that smoothly. What magic is this?
I thought the same thing when I saw that cross bolt come out! I was like Oh hell no, ain't no way that came out that easily, he already used a breaker bar on it unless... he just abracadabra'd it? LOL
Just replaced my rear wheel bearings and it must have taken me a solid 15-20 min either side getting the suspension knuckles off because those bolts just did not want to budge...
Concise, to the point, all the needed information, and I have to reiterate what was already said, the clarity of your video shots and angles are second to none. I have been wrenching on all of my vehicles since I could drive. If I would have had more videos to guide me like the ones you make, I would have had A LOT less headaches and would have saved many hours of my life and spared myself many frustrations. The long and short is, we appreciate you my guy. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!
Your detail and effort are impressive, and that's why I love this channel. Subaru owes you, because I keep buying Outbacks since I know you've likely got a repair guide for most common issues.
Just bought a 95 impreza swapped with an 03 ej20 going to need help and I'm glad you're here making these videos. Def makes me feel more comfortable with it
You make it look so easy I'm tempted to do it myself
I have a project STi that Im working on currently. The rear diff is leaking from somewhere because the back plate is all caked with dried residue.
This video could not have come at a better time!! Thank you for posting.
~Cheers!
Hey MrSubaru1387 good video. This video helped me with some work I was doing to my differential on my 2007 Subaru Legacy. I too had a lot of backlash after watching this video that I was concerned about. My bearing caps on mine were broken around where the 5 M8 bolts go in on a lot of them. So I changed them out with new OEM ones. I did come to the conclusion why the backlash was so excessive. The aluminum bearing caps and the difference between material (aluminum and the cast) steel created corrosion between it and the shims thus increasing the backlash. I cleaned up the shims and all the mating surfaces and replaced the bearing caps, and now it’s a lot better. A little back lash but nothing like it was before. I would say it’s around factory spec of .007.
I thank you so much for this video. I realize it is an older video but it has helped me tremendously. I am currently ground up rebuilding a forester with a part out outback and I have never done any of this before. So thank you very much.
You're welcome. Glad to help.
Still here, looking at videos from you.
You're the reason my cars still going after two years of me owning it. 🤣
Thank you. Very informative. You have been dealing with your rear suspension before i guess - getting that long lateral link bolt out that easy. Mine were rustwelded inside the two bushings.
+Norsology nope. Actually the first time removing them. The car is a rust free, southern vehicle. You're very welcome. I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Great vid bro ... Have to change out a rear dif on my 2010 just did the trans last week the rear gears were so bad trying to get home it fried the trans ... I have 200k on car n motor but found a trans and rear dif and driveshaft with only 44k on it ..replaced both front axles when did the trans now I will replace the rear too when I do the dif thia weekend ... So EPIC video bro thanks so much for sharing thats exactly what my rear sounds like it what destroyed my trans as well ..light and love n many blessings to you and yours keep up the amazing vids please
I know this is an old video but I want to say 1) this was well shot, and 2) it's nice to see someone actually working outside on gravel like I have instead of in a wonderful garage. I don't have power tools, though. Good job! Very informative. I wonder how heavey that thing is?
love your videos
im from argentina and i hace a subaru outback 2.5 1999 and all the thinks I have done to it is because of you
thanks man
don't shop making videos 💪💪
+Julian Arra glad you enjoy my videos. Glad I can be of help to you.
you are not a true d.i.y person until you can hear crickets in the back ground.that is awsome
I like how this video popped up in my feed as Im just getting ready to replace my rear diff. Just did a transmission swap, turns out the final drive ratio is 4.44 in the new/old trans I installed and my original rear diff is 4.11. Gotta match those suckers…
Redoing the work someone else did on my clutch a few months ago (it seized up) and it took me a minute to figure out why the drive shaft was being such a PITA to get loose from the rear diff. The previous "mechanic" put the lock washers under the bolt heads instead of the nuts. Undid the whole purpose of the lock washers and the flat spot on the bolt heads. The bolts were all splayed out and the threads were trashed by the time I got it out. SMH - time to order parts...
Ouch.
Can this be fixed just with new bearings? Does this have shims to adjust the backlash?
Excellent video...nice and short and to the point. Thanks for all your effort as this really helps deal with the stress of dealing with the unknown.
+Jessie glad you enjoyed the video.
Thanks for the video, made the job fairly easy. But... I missed the comment about seating the CV joints into the differential until they engage the C-clip. They'll go in almost all the way, and look good. But when you drive the vehicle, eventually they'll slide out about half an inch, and then that wheel is spinning free. All you notice is that the car suddently acts like the clutch is slipping. Easy to miss this step and difficult to diagnose once it's all together.
just got mine out only to learn ill also be doing all 6 control/trailing arms, brakes, bearings,ujoint, was happy to see metal chunks in the diff plug though
Still liking this videos in October 2021
2:57 - Oh my, I LOL'd at this so hard: It took you about 2 seconds. Up here in rustland (Canada), each bolt would take over an hour *IF I'M LUCKY* with an impact, air hammer, and about 1 full can of PB blaster (worst case the bolt is so rusted to the knuckle that it breaks off and I have to remove the whole knuckle and drill it out). :-D
Jesus christ
I live in New York with rust is bad I can't get my rear bolts out of my spindles when I change my axles or my rear I just dropped the rear and the axles fall out and then I I put it back together like that never taking apart the spindles
Amazing video. Very detailed and precise. Thank you! Keep up the great work! Much appreciated!
Nice touch with the time lapse from hyper fast to normal...
Any tips if the driveshaft won't spin and I cant get the top 2 12 mm bolts off? Rear differential is toast
THA NK YOU EXCELLENT VIDEO!! in order to replace the differential bushings, can I leave the rear axles in the differentials and lower the differential with a jack, out of the way to remove the old bushings and install the new ones, please? Thank you!!
To replace the inner retaining clip ring in the differential, is it best to remove the bolts on the side of the differential where the axle goes into the housing to replace the ring?
Hello, great videos have helped a lot, i was wondering if there should be any movement to wobble the cv cups where they slip into the diff? And would that cause early wheel beating failure due to vibration and such, ,thanks
Advice for a stuck/seized drain plug? Seems like its a different socket size and depth rhan the fill plug on my 2011 outback.
Did you pull axle nuts lose or left them there bc I'm not sure honestly bc you didnt show I'd figure I'd ask
Love you videos man! Please keep up and never stop. Regards from Germany
Buddy, I love the videos you put out...they are great...keep it up...!!!!
Thank you. 👍🏻
How different would the removal for my 05 Impreza RS diff be? Pretty sure its still the male axels and a 3.90 final gear.
Hello. Symptom on a 2005 manual Forester. Wheel slippage/AWD shudders in tight corners near full lock. I think it is the Torque Bind in centre diff that may need replaced? It's called viscious coupler in USA. Do you need to remove the rear cross member to replace centre diff? Or can it be left in place?
My passenger side cv axle popped out on my 2013 outback 3.6R, and my transmission light temperature went on. I heard vibrations, then i put it neutral and pulled over. Suburu dealer said I had to replace the transmission and differential estimated 9k for repair. How could the transmission be damaged so much by the differential?
Thanks for the vid. Do you have any footage of doing a center diff on a manual?
I don't. Sorry.
I have a a 2001 outback that has an RPM dependent high pitched whine, I replaced the manual trans as it was failing anyway and it didn't go away. Its only there under full throttle from about 4.5k rpm up...
My 2000 classic impreza is making a Lound humming noise kinda like a wheel baring but not sure
I first off want to thank you for your videos, they've aided me considerably in many projects I've done with my 2004 outback H6 a/307,000m, still runs well for what you'd expect from the motor; weeping head gaskets, little bit of timing chain music at idle.
My question I want to ask is, how would you go about freeing up the fill and drain plug on the rear diff?
I tried on jackstands, with a ½ breaker, and working it minutes on end with a Mac tools air impact with absolute zero movement. I applied PB a good few times, tried to torch warm up around the plugs, nothing.
I haven't tried to use a floor jack on a breaker bar, which did work on the rear shock bottom bolts(a jack supporting the shock a little for center made those bolts slide right out), and a axle nut, I'm just afraid of stripping it out, or cooking the gasket and having to pull the whole damn thing out.
It's a colorado car, and only surface rust on bare metal a touch, very clean/solid for 19 years old.
Thanks for your time, I know you get a lot of time bandit questions, and this one probably being one too.
What would you replace if you were to rebuild the broken diff? Just the bearings? What about any of the gears or the pinion?
Still, thanks for the video. I pulled a diff from pickapart successfully. For me, I ended up disconnecting both the lower arms going to the bottom of the spindle, but it was way easier to disconnect the inner bolts. I also disconnected the strut from above (much easier to remove) and disconnected the ?sway bar?. I didn't have to remove the wheels (the donor car at p-a-p had the wheels locked).
exact sound I have on my 1999 outback! thanks for the great videos! super helpful!
+Nolan Gunn glad to help!
Thank you very much for making this video
Doing one this week bro man great vid thank u
No problem 👍
15 Impreza 102k miles. I have rear noise at speeds. Not a wheel bearing or bad tire. Sounds just like a wheel bearing. I have side to side play on the axels where they go into the rear differential. Both sides have side play. Is that normal? Main pinion bearing seems solid, no play. Thoughts? Thank you.
Is it ok 75W140
Hello ... I am not a DIY type ... but I was thinking of doing some hiking / camping mountain trips in my 2013 Forester. For the stuff I want to do I think it is more than up to the challenge. I recently had to replace rear brakes (very low mileage at approx 50K Km). I suspect issue is with using ABS system for years on icy roads etc. If I wanted to have a mechanical LSD installed on rear and maybe front is it recommended ? I don’t want to spend $50K on a Tacoma.
my 2009 NA Forester needs a new rear end. a 2011 NA Imprenza is being parted out and I can have it’s rear end. are they the same, or how do I find out?
Very well done and demonstrated, thanks!
I have a 2013 Crosstrek and my rear differential cover (the part that has the fill and drain plugs) is cracked just underneath the drain plug. Do I need to take off the whole differential to change the cover or can I change it with the differential in place ?
You will need to drop the diff to be able to get the cover off. The cover bolts to the rear crossmember, making it basically impossible to get off while in the vehicle.
Hearing a rather loud rear hum in the rear of my 2005 Outback 3.0R. This might be the issue. Amazing detail and very well filmed, thank you for sharing :)
You're welcome. 👍🏻
More videos on differential rebuilt
Taking it apart of and what to look for .
How to disassembled completely
Question..own a 2004 forrester xt..run well.. when i try tight turns the rear end seems to jam ,, rattles and does not operate smoothly... no problem when i go straight.. what could it be..??
Hey there i have a 5-speed manual 2004 Impreza Outback N/A that i bought for my son as a first car. Test drove it for 500 miles and it seemed fine. Tagged it for legal driving and 200 miles later i have some kind of binding click noise that happens randomly, but more often when the tires are operating on muddy snow terrain. I can feel the clicking in the stick shift handle.
The tranny gear oil was about 1.75 qts low. I filled it and sound is a little less present but still present.
Is the center differential lubed by the same gear oil reservoir as the manual transmission?
What do you suggest to do? Thanks!
mr. subaru, you rock. your vidoes have given me confidence beyond belief. wish you were closer geographically for future major repair service. have a 2009 tribeca. replacing rear diff - front member. 4 bolts. simple, right? any techniques or procedures regarding this? support rear diff with jack, remove and replace? can't wait for new content. always appreciated!!
I just got a 2005 impreza outback sport and with the help of your videos been servicing it including replacing the diff. It runs good but when driving down the road the tires chirp like if accelerating from a dead stop then after 10 to 15 minutes the awd light starts flashing, just replaced all the tires, I was thinking maybe the axles or an axle are binding but really have no clue, idk if the old diif damaged anything when it failed/ locked up. This is my first subaru so any help would be appreciated. Also would driving it in a tight circle alleviate binding if thats the issue?
Subaru man I have a question I have a 1997 Subaru Outback limited and I've heard a grinding when turning so I replace the two front axles to no avail the noise seems to be coming from the back axle somewhere when turning Sharp what would you say that is could it be the gearbox
Here's a question. I know on my 2014 outback the rear is a open style diff any diff I can swap in with limited slip?
I love your channel.. Keep up the good work..
Great and informative video, thanks! One question; is it hard to pop the CV axles back in? Which technique is best to use for this?
Hey im sure youve already figured this one out, but just in case, the CV will just slide in if you line up the ridges on the cv with the opening
@@jmbt02 Yea I got it when I was working on it, but thanks anyways!
Idk if you or anyone can help. I need a differential. I have a 1997 Impreza Brighton 1.8 Mantual transmission. The diff has " va1rbf-xf" and I cannot find any used or new ones. Is there another from another subaru that could fit it too? Thanks
Hello friend, what is the relationship between your front differential and the rear one for which you changed? To have a notion since I have two automatic gearboxes that have the same 37/9 tooth ratio in the front differential but where it varies is in the rear differential since one has the 37/9 ratio and the other has 40/9. one box is from 1996 and the other from 2000.
Best damn how2 vid out there !!!
Any chance you have a video or could make one for the front differential? Mine is bad on my 2004 outback
Thanks for the video. I'm having a hard time putting the half shaft back into the differential all the way. Is there supposed to be a retainer clip on the end of the spindle? If so, wouldn't seem to be a reason for it not being able to go in all the way. Suggestions?
There's a clip on the end of the axle. It may have popped off the axle and be inside the diff. This can prevent the axle from seating in the rear diff fully.
MrSubaru1387 thanks for your time and prompt reply. Maybe using a magnet or removing the diff cover would be the best thing to figure it out.
You should be able to look into the axle hole to see the c clip. They don't go that deep inside.
Great video, my diffs just blew apart yesterday. Habent got to look at it yet with this weather so not positive yet if it's the front or rear. If it blew out good can I expect damage to the axles too? Also, does unbolting the shock mount our anything involved with the job effect the alignment as i just had 1 done 2 days prior to it breaking.
I have a problem with my Forester.
A few months bad I had the dealership change my diff oil as it was in for another repair. When I got back the car. There was a noticeable whine coming from the rear and a jerk when releasing off the accelerator. The whine also stops when releasing the accelerator. I swapped out the oil for 75-140 and the jerk feeling stopped by about 75%. I then swapped out for 85-140 and I haven't really felt it since. The whining noise is still there though.
Is the diff on the way out? The oils where both changed in front and rear
Yea, seems like it. The diffs are suppose to use 75W-90. 75-140 and 85-140 is pretty thick.
Yeah I'm going to change it back out this week. Last week I put in the 85-140. Gas consumption went to the dogs with that.
Would all those symptoms be the rear diff? Or the drive shaft also?
I'd check the propshaft, but with noise going away with thicker gear oil, I'd say it's most likely the rear diff.
Thanks for the speedy response. Well it didn't completely go away but yea the jerk did ease up a lot!
If doing that test you show at 10:18 should there not be any noise at all?
hello mr subaru, greetings from chile, I have exactly this sound in my 2009 impreza, the mechanical gearbox oil was low, now that the sound has been filled up, it continues, I would like to know from your experience if it will only remain as an acoustic nuisance, or does it mean that they are coming more expensive problems? Can I continue using the vehicle normally for a few more years? Or should I change the differential or box in a mandatory way? greetings from Chile !
Can one assume that lifting up on the differential "on most vehicles" is safe. i.e. crack the housing. Is the Subaru aluminum? I would like to lift my AMG like that and put "race ramps" about an 1/4" under all four tires just in case. Safety. I need the whole car off the ground. The only other alternative is four jacks at the tire change lift points or jack stands which I have avoided up to now because I don't want to damage the undercoating.
Subaru diffs are steel with aluminum rear plates. Subaru states the rear diff is a lift point for the car. No idea on the AMG. I'd assume it's safe, but won't say 100%.
@@MrSubaru1387 OK thanks! I may go for it, I'm doing ABC suspension work. Car is over-engineered but can be done!
Would a rear wheel bearing make a humming sound to? My outback is making that noise but it sounds like its coming from the rear left tire area.
When I investigated it quick I noticed the filler plug on my diff was leaking a little. I checked the oil leave and it didn't seam low at all, but I drained it and put in new 75w90. The condition of the old oil looked good. Good viscosity and looked clean, very little metal on the drain plug magnet. Still the same noise though.
Yes, a bad wheel bearing can sound similar.
What about a whine in rear when only using the brakes. I checked the pads and they where good. The noise only happens when braking and the harder I apply the brakes the quieter then whine gets.
+Wolfy1091 a whine that only occurs when the brakes are applied has to be brake related. Pad ears greased? Caliper pins greased? Rotors checked for warpage?
You're doing God's work. Keep it up
Thanks!
AWESOME video MrSubaru! But I have a question. I have a 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i. In your video and on many others, at the end of the axle that goes into the differential there is a slot for a retainer clip... but no visible clip. Does the clip stay inside the differential? I am having a terrible time trying to get the new passenger side half-axle to snap back into place. I wondering if the retainer clip has fallen off or something and is preventing the axle from going in ??? Reponses from you or others will be welcomed.
There should be a C-clip on the end of the axle that goes into the diff. Sometimes it gets stuck and doesn't come out with the axle. Shine a light inside and see if you can spot it.
Great video. My son and I are having an issue with the front mounting plate (the one with the 17 and 14mm nuts). The bolts (studs?) Are spinning. How would you get it out?
Can you send a picture to MrSubaru1387@gmail.com?
How similar would this be in a Tribeca? Im going to go for it next week
Good videos fast and practical can illustrate us with another video in which the differential is adjusted without disassembling it
bought 2 used ones 1 had 80,00 miles on it and the other had 6,000 miles on it both whined so i bought a brand new 1 directly from subaru for $717.00 and it is starting to whine as well although not as loud as the other 2 but it's doing it right around 55 mph i'm at a complete loss literally pulling my hair out i'm so frustrated at this point i'm just ready to dump it
What was the conclusion I have something similar going on.
might be the fuel pump.. mine has the whining problem, and one mech said it might be a fuel pump while another talked about the diff.. worried which way way forward
@@dennismuthai9234 My whine ended up being a RR wheel bearing, after I got it replaced the service tech. just said for some reason the rear wheel bearings seem to go out around 50k. Got it back all was great for about 2 weeks then about a week ago the noise returned similar to how it started the first time. So I'm assuming its the LR wheel bearing this time. I haven't set up the appointment yet but will call them next week to set it up. I own a Forester.
Hey Mr. Subaru 1387 you seem like the perfect guy to ask. I have a 2016 Subaru Impreza with 90,000 miles on it. I discovered some oil leak spots at the rear of my car where I parked it. Do you think it could be a leaking axle? I’m trying to figure out exactly what it is so I know what part or parts to order.
Holaa,hay alguna maner de cerciorarte de que el euido proviene del diferencial y no de algun rodamiento? gracias
25.04.19 - Good video, wondering what did you replace the differential with, a low k one from thee same model?
I have a 2002 Subaru Forester S model, is my rear differential gear 4:44 limited slip or open? I found a 4:44 cheap and trying to make sure it will fit. Thanks again for the replies.
Auto or manual?
MrSubaru1387 it's an automatic, lol I am literally watching your video right now.
Auto, yes, should be a 4:44.
MrSubaru1387 thanks again, I'll be tackling this project soon then on to head gasket.
So I did this replacement thanks to your video, the shudder driving straight is gone. But now turning at low speeds I have a torque bind issue! Where should I start now?
The rear differential in my 08 WRX sounded nothing like that. It sounded more like the clicking you hear when going up the first part of a roller coaster. It finally broke when taking off from a stop light.
+skymitch89 ouch..
Does it make sense to try and rebuild the diff or just swap with a used part?
Hiya , can I ask where the c clip is meant to be ? On half shaft or in diff. Drivers side remained in diff and passenger side come out on shaft
Doesn't really matter as long as they snap back together, but, should be on the axle.
@@MrSubaru1387 THANKYOU, this video helped me so much ;)
The rear diff can also be removed without the need to touch the wheels or hubs if you drop the rear silencer off.
+rulerofthebalance exhaust was rusted in place.
hey, i got the a 2003 legacy saloon 3.0R and was wondering if the torque needed to close the bolts is the same, and allso wanted to ask if the estate 2004 and saloon have the same differential. thanks for the video :) much appreciated
Torque needed to close the bolts? If the sedan and wagon (estate saloon) have the same engine and transmission, then the rear differential gear ration should be the same.
Thank you very :) by torgue to close bolts i meant to ask: you have used a torque meeter on the video to close the drive shaft bolts and a few more, do i need to tighten everything with a torque meeter with specific strength?
allso, two thing i cant seem to figure out is..1st: does the 30R use LSD? or is it only the spec b? secondly, i got this esp off button on my left, does it mean i got vdc or has nothing to do with it?
The torque for the rear diff is also 34 for a 2015 STI?
I need to know how to replace the differential bushings. Can you help😳
Mr Subaru, have you ever remove the rear subframe? I am removing the subframe of Outback 00 and the front bolts of subframe are very tight, firstly they turned very easy but later started to become more tight, it seems that there are some dust in the cavity that the nut attached to the bodyframe, there is no rust, the threads are very clean, but I dont know how to access to oil them with wd40 or similar to help remove them, do you have any tip? thanks a lot.
I haven't had to remove a rear subframe. Unfortunately I don't have any tips or tricks on the subject. Just be careful. Definitely don't want to strip out break off a subframe bolt.
Fun stuff, thanks!! Now if I could just get the proper battery fitment BCI # for a 2018 Outback 3.6r, which the Interwebs refuse to reveal!
I'm considering buying a Subaru. Can most of the maintenance be done with normal socket set? I want to avoid purchasing expensive special tools
+Matthew Lozano yes, most all maintenance can be performed with basic hand tools.
if you replaced the pinion bearing will it work good again ?
or it is not worth fixing?
i see there is no adjustment for it unlike the front differential
+thesniperofcs yea, that's all it needs is a pinion bearing. Just faster, cheaper, and easier for me to grab a whole diff from the junkyard.
I was wandering if the 2000 to 2004 outback rear diff. gear ratio is the same for auto and manuel? I looked at the model number on the top and its the same.
No. Auto and manual have different gear ratios.