i gave u 5 stars man. i like the presentation of the video. i dont listen to rock, but the song wasnt bad. and you showed a complete swap in less than 3 min. good job bro
Honda Accords are the sickest looking Hondas in the 90 to 93 time frame. Great job on the build. .. And your shirt is %100 correct the sickest rides are built.
like the pics, Me and a friend pullet his out and reworked it similar, except running all motor. 11.5-1 comp. Yeah, and gator axles.. gotta have them. After snapping and returning AutoZone axles bout 5 times, he decided to buy some. . Nice build none the less!
wow excellent video man! you have built an awesome motor there! every detail was followed to the letter here. i bet it runs great! you didnt skip any steps!
@H22DA9 the h22a1 is the older style h22 that was made in america (or not Japan). And the h22a (jdm motor) are both closed deck. But the h22a4 is the one that came in the newer preludes (96+) and it is open deck. I have never heard that you could boost either up to 16psi and be realiable. As far as i know both are same material and both are sleeved just one you can see the sleeves and the other are built into block.
How thick those Darton sleeves are compared to stock ones? Also what purpose those holes near the edges of the sleeves serve? Are they filled with something to reinforce the whole block structure, or do they just act as water jackets? I may sound dumb, but have never seen anything like that before.
i have one more question did you buy the h22a engine harness or u modify the harness ??? man its insane i have an accord lx 94 and i find out a h22a engine from a prelude 93 to 97 can fit perfectly with few very simple changes !!!! and saving money right now just getting some info thanks!!!
Timing belts are rubber, but they are reinforced with either fiberglass or kevlar so they do not stretch. This is why when they got, its just "SNAP" and thats it. Nice setup you have btw.
So you ran CP pistons without sleeving it the first time? Just curious becuse as far as i know Mahle Gold's or oe's are the only thing you should have used with the Frm's. If that's true that's why it blew. Nice build by the way. If you need any parts hit me up.
What people need to realize is this video was put up over 5 years ago. And I'm guessing some of the footage is even older. If you were able to drive back then which I'm assuming a lot of you weren't you went through your ricer stages. Hell, check out my videos. Look back far enough and you see a whole lot of rice. But that's how it was back then. Now I'm just for clean and fast. I'm sure this guy is the same way. Nice build and GL with the car dude.
That h22 is teh sex. But just wondering, why'd u put it in an accord? i bet a crx or civic, or hellz even a prelude could get a bigger kick out of it. But still, very nice. I wish i had the cash and the knowhow to do this. and like a few other peiople asked, what did u use to tune it?
thanks RD177. been waiting to make some vids but been having trouble with the tuning. Engine is actually apart right now getting balance shaft deletion and stage 4 cluth.
oh in the video looked like you had the balance shafts in the motor? i just finished up my h2b and i gotta say i didnt feel much of a vibration even with solid mounts you did the balance shaft kit from H-T?
hey man love the video i have a couple of questions for you if your willing im 17 i love cars i have a 1992 honda accord. first what did you tell darton to put in im new to this but i know a good amount i want to build an h22a with almost all of the same parts and turbo it but i dont know what to do as far as slotting it. also do they make a forged crank for the h22 any info would be great
Fuckin' YEEAH BUDS!!! now that was a great piece of work. What was your grand total? I dont know if i should rebuild my H22A4 or build an H22A on the side.
@jnalley2 I like that you are at least open to the idea of taking things off to save weight if you want. good luck with the shows and on the track, wish I could be racing you.
Hey man i have a question. How much boost are you runnung now that you sleeved the motor and how much did it cost to have it sleeved? Also, is the H22 LS tranny a 5 or 6 speed? i have a H22a4 5th gen Prelude and i was woundering if it was the same tranny. Thanks - Josh
Nice vid!! Congrats!! Although i beg to differ with one thing, you sir... have the JDM h22 which has "solid" sleeves... it doesn't have the "floating" sleevs as the usdm h22. The usdm h22 cannot hold too much boost because of those particular type of sleeves but the JDM h22 can!! You coulda pushed ur 18lbs with no prob. But hey... at least with the darton sleeves you can take it all the way up and have peace of mind! EITHER way, congratulations on your project!! Two thumbs up for you sir
@215Montana if your putting a h22 into a accord you can use your stock mounts, but i would suggest to save up for some stiff mounts if your going to do any mods
they do make a crank for it but its hella expensive...if you call darton and tell them what you are trying to do and how much boost you want to push they will walk you through it and get you the correct sleeves...if i remember correctly mine are the 30psi sleeves
@navyseal19876 i think its called black widow rear and side skirts, and skyline front bumper....the kit is actually for sale if your interested as well as the dual exhaust setup
this is a hard question to answer. if your wanting to run high boost then you def. need to sleeve the block around $1,100..get a good piston (CP $500), and rods i think around $450. Def build the head whether you are running low or high boost just to be safe. You can get the head built fairly cheap, well cams are kinda expensive if you go with a good company like skunk2. Dont skimp on the turbo kit whatsoever.
i'm not sure on the thickness...but thats not really the point..the point is what kind of material the sleeves are...the stock sleeve isn't strong enough to hold high boost....and the hole are in fact water/coolent jackets that work to keep the engine/block cooler.
@FairlyObvious11 not necessarily, block guards can save you front possibly cracking your block but they also can create hot spots or not save you from cracks
@SpartanProject2 the motor is doing okay now...i'v had lots of tuning issues..not sure if its been my tuners or my car...probably a little combination of both.! one time my cuplins were just exploding and not holding boost..another time my 4bar map was messing up and wouldn't read past 8 pounds...another time my oil pick up bolts came loose and i lost oil pressure, just different things every time its been on the dyno 7 or 8 times now.
@michaelcromley the oil pickup actually came loose and it spun all the bearings..i fixed everything and did a balance shaft remolval and changed a couple other things that changed my tune...just waiting on summer to be here to re-tune it.
@H22ACB thanks man good to hear from a fellow cb7 owner, one day i'll get the inspiration to edit this video and put up the new pics of the way the car looks now that its back to the stock body.
Whoever told you a stock h22 cant handle more than 8 psi was wrong.lol Not to mention the fact that an 8 psi rating on its own is completely irrelevant without knowing what kind of compressor a.r. the turbo is sporting. But Ive seen completely stock bottom ended h22's with head work make over 400 whp. All Im saying is that you have the potential to make much more power! :)
i guessing that you found out about the FRM cylinder liners and your aftermarket pistons gouged the sidewalls of the cyl and thats what blew it up not the 8psi. You were doomed from the start not having it sleeved. Not because of the block but because of the cyl liners. I noticed that the first block was a closed deck and the second one was an open deck block.
@jnalley2 3000$ in tuning? Why is it that much. I have everything you just named except for the tuning and boost controller and Im only at 12grand Hows the motor holding? Any problems so far?
wow got like a freakn forum starting in here..i am getting tuned again Friday Feburary 27th i will put up some new videos and hp readings..and to kingcr3b .i havent done any reasearch on the h22 in the v6 models...although i would say there is definately room for it if you found a way to mount it and i know anything is possible with the right motivation if you want it go for it!
yes it was! actually pretty simple. Found a manual accord, stripped the stuff and switched it out. The engine was out of the car when i did this i'm sure it would have been very annoying to get the clutch line in with the engine in the car.
well thanks on the engine comment. I actually do like the jdm look more now that iv gotten into performance..still the video shows a bad picture of the body of the car it flows well with the car. I'm in the process of changing it though i just got the rear bumper and about to buy front with carbon lip
@800whpcivic he wasn't running that on a stock motor...i was talking about stock motor and reliability for 8psi...your not gonna want to put much more than 8-10 on the stock motor..for me looking at around 20psi i had to sleeve the block
5k, give or take. i have a darton sleeved block with every after market part possible for the h22. including balance shaft delete from ks tuned and more. built for boost, power goal will be 700~800hp.
i got the turbo running and got it tuned but while on the dyno the intercooler pipes kept blowing apart and i had some oil leaks. so i'm only at 200hp right now (2psi) but i was gaining 11.5 hp per pound of boost.motor is built for 30psi..going back next week
@jnalley2 without adding it up that right there is close or over 10 grand and there is tons more stuff, full skunk 2 head, motor mounts, map sensor, guages, sterio, manual conversion, sparco steering wheel and shifter, paint, wheels, tires, suspension, and a ton more. some of my total price is for having to re-do a couple things like having to get a second set of pistons and new bearing but yea building a car the correct way with respectable name brand parts is costly my friend.
I wouldn't recommend using a racing pulley in place of the stock harmonic balancer unless the a few extra horsepower is worth breaking your crankshaft. Stock harmonic balancers are designed to reduce flex in the crankshaft during the power stroke. Racing pulleys don't dampen the flexing in the crank and tend to reduce engine longevity.
between machine work/parts/swap parts/ etc there is between 20k to 22k, including body parts, suspension, and interior parts, paint, wheels, etc there is another10k..around 35k to this day, sound like a ton i know but thats over 5 years
this car has all of that and some of those are even shown in the video...currently Precision 1000cc injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Skunk2 Turbo Stage 1 Cams and Skunk2 adjustable cam gears....and lots and lots of tuning.
this is the motor that i wana put in my car...cheee one h22A4..brah den wud be cherrayyy. shiiiiit dat only took you one day?? perfect for my 91 accord lx wagon =] dude u made my day haha. yup @altronzero: love the look on they faces looking at one solid accord passing..shoooooo shud see my face when i see one hahahaha
you ever have a problem with your pulleys I am guessing they are light weight I was told not to use them that they would set my crank off blanace and case damage?
i beg to differ. rubber streches, seen it happen. especially when cheap people buy auto zone belts that are made by some random company. your reasoning is also correct, either way with the proper care either tensioner will get the job done.
@TurboNFRStwoK not exactly...i found found out before i finished the build so i never ran it with turbo pistons and unsleeved block so that wasn't the issue and it never blew up...
no, i thought about it, but each has its ups and downs, the manual is more reliable but over time the belt stretches and something could skip a tooth, where as the auto tensioner always keeps up with the slack, no problems so far
the same as i wrote just below. You still have to buy those parts just buy them for all motor rather than for turbo. A lot of the specs are different. You wont have to sleeve the block. I would say if i did this with my motor i would have around five thousand...the add some type of electronic computer device,,all depends on what quality of parts and name brands you use
well i started out trying to make the exterior look better so i got the kit. After i really got into imports i started finding all the jdm stuff. but i'm leaving this car the way it is and working on building another 92 with stock body and jdm front lip. (all motor f22 w/ h22 head)
i got it powder coated by a local shop...but i will never again to black...it becomes extremely hard to source oil leads because you can see where they are coming from
hey, where did u get this engine,. i need an engine for my LUDE... pistons are damaged due to timing belt tionsioner not being fixed on time.. ( according to honda dealership ) they wanna sell me an engine and install for 3000 +.. i donno what would b better... or i can go all out.. get a k20.. or just get my engine built....
hey man i have an s2000, and i was wondering where i can get axles for it, i want them to last, because my turbo build should be pushin 480 to the wheels
not on a stock motor unless you have some other mods. you would probably get around 280-300. depends on the quality of turbo you get and the computer system you run will make a big difference. Still 280 to 300 hundread is a lot for a honda. I had mine at 320 hp for a little while and that a fun hp range for the street.
i gave u 5 stars man. i like the presentation of the video. i dont listen to rock, but the song wasnt bad. and you showed a complete swap in less than 3 min.
good job bro
Honda Accords are the sickest looking Hondas in the 90 to 93 time frame. Great job on the build. .. And your shirt is %100 correct the sickest rides are built.
Nice build. Thanx for taking the time to post!
The h22a is a beast nicely done!
I love how everything looks so clean and shiny...
like the pics, Me and a friend pullet his out and reworked it similar, except running all motor. 11.5-1 comp. Yeah, and gator axles.. gotta have them. After snapping and returning AutoZone axles bout 5 times, he decided to buy some. . Nice build none the less!
wow excellent video man! you have built an awesome motor there! every detail was followed to the letter here. i bet it runs great! you didnt skip any steps!
Sweet build man!! I just put an H22 in my EG civic coupe. Fun times!!
looked like a nicely built motor. any reasons for leaving the balance shafts tho? you probably could have put down a lot more power without them
@H22DA9 the h22a1 is the older style h22 that was made in america (or not Japan). And the h22a (jdm motor) are both closed deck. But the h22a4 is the one that came in the newer preludes (96+) and it is open deck. I have never heard that you could boost either up to 16psi and be realiable. As far as i know both are same material and both are sleeved just one you can see the sleeves and the other are built into block.
How thick those Darton sleeves are compared to stock ones?
Also what purpose those holes near the edges of the sleeves serve? Are they filled with something to reinforce the whole block structure, or do they just act as water jackets?
I may sound dumb, but have never seen anything like that before.
i have one more question did you buy the h22a engine harness or u modify the harness ??? man its insane i have an accord lx 94 and i find out a h22a engine from a prelude 93 to 97 can fit perfectly with few very simple changes !!!! and saving money right now just getting some info thanks!!!
Timing belts are rubber, but they are reinforced with either fiberglass or kevlar so they do not stretch. This is why when they got, its just "SNAP" and thats it. Nice setup you have btw.
love he build and love the shirt, thats been my motto forever
So you ran CP pistons without sleeving it the first time? Just curious becuse as far as i know Mahle Gold's or oe's are the only thing you should have used with the Frm's. If that's true that's why it blew. Nice build by the way. If you need any parts hit me up.
What people need to realize is this video was put up over 5 years ago. And I'm guessing some of the footage is even older. If you were able to drive back then which I'm assuming a lot of you weren't you went through your ricer stages. Hell, check out my videos. Look back far enough and you see a whole lot of rice. But that's how it was back then. Now I'm just for clean and fast. I'm sure this guy is the same way. Nice build and GL with the car dude.
That h22 is teh sex. But just wondering, why'd u put it in an accord? i bet a crx or civic, or hellz even a prelude could get a bigger kick out of it. But still, very nice. I wish i had the cash and the knowhow to do this. and like a few other peiople asked, what did u use to tune it?
thanks RD177. been waiting to make some vids but been having trouble with the tuning. Engine is actually apart right now getting balance shaft deletion and stage 4 cluth.
awesome build, i am turboin my cb7 as we speak :D good job on the build!
oh in the video looked like you had the balance shafts in the motor? i just finished up my h2b and i gotta say i didnt feel much of a vibration even with solid mounts you did the balance shaft kit from H-T?
nice nice nice,wat intake manifold is that? sk2?
hey man love the video i have a couple of questions for you if your willing im 17 i love cars i have a 1992 honda accord. first what did you tell darton to put in im new to this but i know a good amount i want to build an h22a with almost all of the same parts and turbo it but i dont know what to do as far as slotting it. also do they make a forged crank for the h22 any info would be great
Fuckin' YEEAH BUDS!!! now that was a great piece of work. What was your grand total? I dont know if i should rebuild my H22A4 or build an H22A on the side.
@jnalley2 I like that you are at least open to the idea of taking things off to save weight if you want. good luck with the shows and on the track, wish I could be racing you.
Hey man i have a question. How much boost are you runnung now that you sleeved the motor and how much did it cost to have it sleeved? Also, is the H22 LS tranny a 5 or 6 speed? i have a H22a4 5th gen Prelude and i was woundering if it was the same tranny. Thanks - Josh
You're right, but his f22 was 280k miles and automatic. So why not change things up and build a h22?
Nice vid!! Congrats!! Although i beg to differ with one thing, you sir... have the JDM h22 which has "solid" sleeves... it doesn't have the "floating" sleevs as the usdm h22. The usdm h22 cannot hold too much boost because of those particular type of sleeves but the JDM h22 can!! You coulda pushed ur 18lbs with no prob. But hey... at least with the darton sleeves you can take it all the way up and have peace of mind! EITHER way, congratulations on your project!! Two thumbs up for you sir
where did you buy your swap from, it's really clean.
@215Montana if your putting a h22 into a accord you can use your stock mounts, but i would suggest to save up for some stiff mounts if your going to do any mods
they do make a crank for it but its hella expensive...if you call darton and tell them what you are trying to do and how much boost you want to push they will walk you through it and get you the correct sleeves...if i remember correctly mine are the 30psi sleeves
@navyseal19876 i think its called black widow rear and side skirts, and skyline front bumper....the kit is actually for sale if your interested as well as the dual exhaust setup
this is a hard question to answer. if your wanting to run high boost then you def. need to sleeve the block around $1,100..get a good piston (CP $500), and rods i think around $450. Def build the head whether you are running low or high boost just to be safe. You can get the head built fairly cheap, well cams are kinda expensive if you go with a good company like skunk2. Dont skimp on the turbo kit whatsoever.
yea i remember thanks, and good luck getting your engine running
how much did it cost at the machine shop? i know the eagle pistons and rods and shit was like 1200 for the whole kit
really nice dude i liked that shirt to, i got a crx and im putting a fully built h22 in it
awesome!!!! i love it!!!! my next build is an h22 fo sho!!!!!! fully built all motor h2b in my crx!
i'm not sure on the thickness...but thats not really the point..the point is what kind of material the sleeves are...the stock sleeve isn't strong enough to hold high boost....and the hole are in fact water/coolent jackets that work to keep the engine/block cooler.
hey, i got a question.
how much did it cost if you just fully build it w/o turbo-ing it and stuff?
because i am thinking of doing this w/ my h22a1.
nice motor and setup btw.. i like it..
nice vid where did you buy the engine from?
its got Skunk2 turbo cams. All thats done to the crank is that it was polished and balanced at the machine shop.
@FairlyObvious11 not necessarily, block guards can save you front possibly cracking your block but they also can create hot spots or not save you from cracks
@SpartanProject2 the motor is doing okay now...i'v had lots of tuning issues..not sure if its been my tuners or my car...probably a little combination of both.! one time my cuplins were just exploding and not holding boost..another time my 4bar map was messing up and wouldn't read past 8 pounds...another time my oil pick up bolts came loose and i lost oil pressure, just different things every time its been on the dyno 7 or 8 times now.
@michaelcromley the oil pickup actually came loose and it spun all the bearings..i fixed everything and did a balance shaft remolval and changed a couple other things that changed my tune...just waiting on summer to be here to re-tune it.
Freaking nice dude. Love the engine work. Now work the outside looking, go JDM! =D
@H22ACB thanks man good to hear from a fellow cb7 owner, one day i'll get the inspiration to edit this video and put up the new pics of the way the car looks now that its back to the stock body.
Whoever told you a stock h22 cant handle more than 8 psi was wrong.lol Not to mention the fact that an 8 psi rating on its own is completely irrelevant without knowing what kind of compressor a.r. the turbo is sporting.
But Ive seen completely stock bottom ended h22's with head work make over 400 whp. All Im saying is that you have the potential to make much more power! :)
i guessing that you found out about the FRM cylinder liners and your aftermarket pistons gouged the sidewalls of the cyl and thats what blew it up not the 8psi. You were doomed from the start not having it sleeved. Not because of the block but because of the cyl liners. I noticed that the first block was a closed deck and the second one was an open deck block.
@jnalley2 3000$ in tuning? Why is it that much. I have everything you just named except for the tuning and boost controller and Im only at 12grand
Hows the motor holding? Any problems so far?
wow got like a freakn forum starting in here..i am getting tuned again Friday Feburary 27th i will put up some new videos and hp readings..and to kingcr3b .i havent done any reasearch on the h22 in the v6 models...although i would say there is definately room for it if you found a way to mount it and i know anything is possible with the right motivation if you want it go for it!
yes it was! actually pretty simple. Found a manual accord, stripped the stuff and switched it out. The engine was out of the car when i did this i'm sure it would have been very annoying to get the clutch line in with the engine in the car.
well thanks on the engine comment. I actually do like the jdm look more now that iv gotten into performance..still the video shows a bad picture of the body of the car it flows well with the car. I'm in the process of changing it though i just got the rear bumper and about to buy front with carbon lip
@800whpcivic he wasn't running that on a stock motor...i was talking about stock motor and reliability for 8psi...your not gonna want to put much more than 8-10 on the stock motor..for me looking at around 20psi i had to sleeve the block
What kind of headers are those? The black one.
Hey was wondering how much you spent on all your parts and labor that you didn't do your self would really like to know thinking of building my h22
5k, give or take. i have a darton sleeved block with every after market part possible for the h22. including balance shaft delete from ks tuned and more. built for boost, power goal will be 700~800hp.
@suzytang no its a kit for the accord its not off of a skyline its just made to look like a skyline
i got the turbo running and got it tuned but while on the dyno the intercooler pipes kept blowing apart and i had some oil leaks. so i'm only at 200hp right now (2psi) but i was gaining 11.5 hp per pound of boost.motor is built for 30psi..going back next week
A real Prelude would be nice instead of an old old Accord. the Engine Looks brand new, thats awesome!
Depends on turbo size, if his turbo is T3 or a 62mm T3/T4 those numbers are about right.
@jnalley2 without adding it up that right there is close or over 10 grand and there is tons more stuff, full skunk 2 head, motor mounts, map sensor, guages, sterio, manual conversion, sparco steering wheel and shifter, paint, wheels, tires, suspension, and a ton more. some of my total price is for having to re-do a couple things like having to get a second set of pistons and new bearing but yea building a car the correct way with respectable name brand parts is costly my friend.
I wouldn't recommend using a racing pulley in place of the stock harmonic balancer unless the a few extra horsepower is worth breaking your crankshaft. Stock harmonic balancers are designed to reduce flex in the crankshaft during the power stroke. Racing pulleys don't dampen the flexing in the crank and tend to reduce engine longevity.
@c7andrei good point...this tensioner actually failed but luckly didn't hurt my engine...it has since been converted to manual tensioner
i was young, with no bills, and a pretty good job is how it all started..now i buy little bits at a time.
i'm not sure of the exact compression ratio...but the pistons are like 9:1, they are stock bore CP turbo pistons
nice build
is it still running strong?
Why only 8 psi?? U have darton sleeves in a the closed deck h22!!!!! Do u even know whats it capable of. Whats ur compression?
you need to add high performance injectors + fuel pump + oil pump + stage 2 cams + adjustable cam gears and some tuning
nice job, impressive
@NancyPelosi1954 appreciate it it was a lot of fun doing it and doing it the right way i'll never forget it
between machine work/parts/swap parts/ etc there is between 20k to 22k, including body parts, suspension, and interior parts, paint, wheels, etc there is another10k..around 35k to this day, sound like a ton i know but thats over 5 years
this car has all of that and some of those are even shown in the video...currently Precision 1000cc injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Skunk2 Turbo Stage 1 Cams and Skunk2 adjustable cam gears....and lots and lots of tuning.
this is the motor that i wana put in my car...cheee one h22A4..brah den wud be cherrayyy. shiiiiit dat only took you one day?? perfect for my 91 accord lx wagon =] dude u made my day haha. yup @altronzero: love the look on they faces looking at one solid accord passing..shoooooo shud see my face when i see one hahahaha
did you do the manual tension conversion for the timing belt on the h22?
How deep are you into this build in terms of money?
you ever have a problem with your pulleys I am guessing they are light weight I was told not to use them that they would set my crank off blanace and case damage?
whats the power/weight ratio? would imagine it would rock in an Accord
wow nice...! so wish i have the performance part like urs =)
i beg to differ. rubber streches, seen it happen. especially when cheap people buy auto zone belts that are made by some random company. your reasoning is also correct, either way with the proper care either tensioner will get the job done.
come make more videos of this car. Will and H22 JDM fit in a 99 honda accord v6? Cos I'm tempted to do it if it is possible.
@TurboNFRStwoK not exactly...i found found out before i finished the build so i never ran it with turbo pistons and unsleeved block so that wasn't the issue and it never blew up...
right, i did some research on what that guy said and never found any support of it, but found tons of stuff on open and closed deck blocks
no, i thought about it, but each has its ups and downs, the manual is more reliable but over time the belt stretches and something could skip a tooth, where as the auto tensioner always keeps up with the slack, no problems so far
the same as i wrote just below. You still have to buy those parts just buy them for all motor rather than for turbo. A lot of the specs are different. You wont have to sleeve the block. I would say if i did this with my motor i would have around five thousand...the add some type of electronic computer device,,all depends on what quality of parts and name brands you use
well i started out trying to make the exterior look better so i got the kit. After i really got into imports i started finding all the jdm stuff. but i'm leaving this car the way it is and working on building another 92 with stock body and jdm front lip. (all motor f22 w/ h22 head)
@TLEJT true true, typically cars with doors that open differently than normal are nicer
i got it powder coated by a local shop...but i will never again to black...it becomes extremely hard to source oil leads because you can see where they are coming from
Congratulations on car very spot, please what is the name of the music hugs
Nice project :)
i have a h22a in a 1991 accord running 12lbs of boost... who told you that your limited to 8lbs?
hey, where did u get this engine,. i need an engine for my LUDE... pistons are damaged due to timing belt tionsioner not being fixed on time.. ( according to honda dealership ) they wanna sell me an engine and install for 3000 +.. i donno what would b better... or i can go all out.. get a k20.. or just get my engine built....
did you paint the motor yourself?
Where'd you purchase the h22? I'm looking for one myself.
They are all over the internet. Use google
@bolognagay cant exactly remember without looking at my receipts but i think getting the block sleeved cost around 1,000 total including shipping.
nice bad ass engine dude
@jnalley2 mine failed on a stock motor lol.how did you sleeve an closed deck h22?
;) its soo nice.....my bro just gave me his 93 prelude..im soo fuckin happy
hey man i have an s2000, and i was wondering where i can get axles for it, i want them to last, because my turbo build should be pushin 480 to the wheels
not on a stock motor unless you have some other mods. you would probably get around 280-300. depends on the quality of turbo you get and the computer system you run will make a big difference. Still 280 to 300 hundread is a lot for a honda. I had mine at 320 hp for a little while and that a fun hp range for the street.
the v6 motor has more power and torque why would you want to change it?
Sleepers kick ass.