I'm currently building a turboed 92 prelude with the f22. This video helped to clear up some of the questions I had as I've never built one of these! I super appreciate you!
Horsepower is built in the head, at the valve seat. Port and proper valve/seat job. Valve train next, go light with the retainers, valves, keepers and the right spring pressure for the cam you're using. More RPMs = more Power. Agree with forged rods but I would spring the extra $4-500 and get the forged pistons. Sleep better at night. Agree 100% about the sleeves for the h22
You've given me a lot to think about. Right now, I'm trying to get started in the Honda game and get myself my first fast car, like ever. I'm also trying to do it right, but I don't have a lot of experience buying or even building engines and it takes me awhile to save up even a grand so avoiding mistakes are HIGHLY valued. So, to me, my only options are to plan literally everything out that I want to do to the car. I'd like a B series, but they aren't all that common where I live and D series rule supreme. I'm sure I could have a lot of fun with a D series coup or something, but it would still take me a long time to learn and build it right. I have very little idea on how to get started and not just fall into a money trap with the first thing I get. Still, I'm not giving up though.
I just found a dream scenario at the junk yard. full H22A1 in a 98 accord with everything still in place. all I'd need is mounts and it'll all fit into my EK, but if the H22A isn't all that tough then I don't know if it'd be worth the sawp from my D16Y8.
Hey man, awesome build. I'm in the process of building mine as well, the h22a4. Just wanted to hear your thoughts on a few things. I've thought about getting darton dry sleeves installed and then installing a supertech blockguard for the cylinders, just because its so much cheaper than purchasing and installing the MID. I've been told it should achieve the same strength as the MID, with keeping standard bore at 87 especially. Also I've been hearing so many mixed views on balance shaft removal, in that it either is only an improvement to increase oil pressure, or is a factor that can cause oil pump failure and oiling issues, because I guess the internal vibrations. I've thought about counteracting said vibrations with maybe something like an ati super damper but I don't know, apparently those super dampers cant go past 400hp.
Good excellent tips that can make sure enthusiasts are heading to the right direction, they can be safe and good or safe and better either way, your tips ensure they are headed to the right direction props to that!! @WB Racing
Ya. I want to build my f22a. But aftermarket is super hard to find parts h22 cranks are slightly different so I can't use those con rods I can use k20 pistons and good luck finding an f22A turbo manifold you can find em for the f22b all day I have a rebuilt OEM style head (might tear apart and find some better valve springs/retainers) although the rods and block can handle the power i just can't really find the parts for the head
I seen F23a handle 400hp with just headstuds. I bet it can handle 340 with just headstuds. If you want 400-500. I would do h beam rods, non VTEC head. epoxy block gaurd k20 pistons
What do you think about the nippon piston and rod kit? . So I currently have a h22a4 that I’m gonna rebuild and go to the 500hp goal what do you recommend? By the way great video
Hi bro, great video and accurate info. I have a crx b20 with b16 head vtec at around 200hp. How much nitro you think it can handle without problems? Thanks bro and keep the good work up!
I’m currently running a b20 aswell and want to do ls vtec. My goal is to have around 200 hp bc it is my daily. What have you done to yours to make 200?
prelude 3rd gen Na build big bore .040 over, LS injector, sport heads, sport intake, nos to top it off. Hope it grips around 300hp what you think I can do to make that happen?
Im building f23 im going with forged pistons rods cam vavle springs ported head maybe sleeve the block and bore to 87mm turbo hondata s300 and shoot for 400-550hp
I've got a jdm 96 prelude Sir spec S and spare complete driveline of same vehicle ..I'm hoping the 1st plus tee ! Can take 8-10 maybe 12 on a one off ;p without opening of engine..however it will have turbo support mods ..springs s600 injectors fuel injectors pump and I'll try the shimming the oil pump ..wish me luck ..any requests or advice the 1st motor is on death row.. lol
I'm working with a junkyard found F20b that had a blown headgasket. Using an single cam F23 crank and rods and may just bore it to use nippon K pistons. all else is pretty much as you mentioned in your vid here. didn't want to break the bank for an engine found for $230
Thank you for that ..I have a question? My h22a is a type S now you said buy pistons and condos..are you saying my pistons are not needing to be replaced so do some nice cintods?maybe cryo
I've got an H22A (minus the 1) since ive got a JDM vtec BB4 chassis model but im guessing the process is same as described for the H22A1 and not the A4
I have a 89 ef hatch im not trying to build a race car but its all orinal expect wheels has the original 1.5 how costly will it be to put a h22 or b20 swap daily driver
Depending on setup, really piecing one together is usually the way to go. If it was a civic there alot more popular and have many choices. All I would see is purchase a quality turbo and wastegate, everything else doesn't have to be the greatest product out there. Cast exhaust manifolds are cheap they work well under 500hp and don't crack good luck
Question can the Transmission handle that much power tho? For a stock trans? Cause i have a 97 lude and im planning a build on my car right now i am planning on buying the nippon jdm pistons but just wanna know if the transmission can handle cause i don't want to blow that either
I'm just starting a build on my 97 prelude h22a4. Switching from auto to manual and unsure about m2y4 or m2b4...this car is very clean and unmolested everything works and original as far as I can tell. I just need to find a place to buy trans with small the parts to install and work. Linkage pedals possible harness if i go with m2b4 and ECU? Shifter box with cables...if anybody got any suggestions I'd be grateful to hear opinions, i want to keep it simple atleast 300-400 whp. Thanks and great tutorial much abliged
I don’t know about the difference between the jdm and usdm h22 motors, other than the different compression, but for nitrous kits you should generally go for a wet nitrous kit. Makes it so you don’t have to tie into the ecu to increase the fuel with the nitrous. Also means you don’t have to spend the money on a higher flow fuel rail and injectors
So people talk about using epoxy. Im not sold on that. Heat affects materials differently. If you have an epoxy wedged between aluminum then what happens if that dont expand at the same rate. I imagine you INCREASE the chance of destroying the block. If i have an open deck design im either not doing anything to it or using the same metal to make a block guard(aluminum block guard in an aluminum block)
H series and F series are much more capable of handling big power over the b series. This guy recommended using a b20 engine for a boosted 500hp build which is quite literally the worst suggestion he could have made. If you want to boost reliably H, F, and K all day. The engines have girdles which give the engine much more support. The f series is an iron block which is heavier but more sturdy(although have an aluminum head attached make increase risk of blown head gaskets due to the metalxs having different expansion rates). Many H series are closed deck designs that increase rigidity(I would never use an epoxy as a substitute in other applications). K series is just all around the most rigid and newer
Yes the b20 has siamesed sleeves it is okay we have gone 230-240whp street/daily on them with no probs but excellent tune and maintenance is a must, we did 12.1sec with barely any grip back then
I do not understand why cast parts are used on engines. A cast part is never as strong as a part machined from a rolled piece. Castings are not even allowed on aircraft
Running nitrous without any supporting mods and especially a tune is a recipe for disaster. Your pictures and videos are pretty decent - your verbal communication/output needs some work 🥹 *I’m out after the maxpeedingrods drop - I’d be careful taking all of this advice fella’s - hope y’all got a back up engine/plan* hahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa - wow wow wow
I respect your opinion everyone has one....I have ran well over 20 bottles of nitrous with no supporting mods....Just a zex smart box system design to do just that...it adds fuel pressure by putting pressure to the fuel regulator using there jetting charts. I wouldn't push high horsepower but 75hp shot is easily safe. Maxspeeding rod, eagle rods, scat rods for h22 and other hondas all start life as the same Chinese forged blank and are machined by whatever company sells them under there name.
While the b20 is readily available and cheap. It is by far the worst option for boost. You will crack a sleeve. Also do not cheap out on the manifold. A log cast manifold will not flow properly and you will not get anywhere close to 350hp. There are affordable ram horns that will do a much better job at flowing exhaust through the turbo. Nitrous without injectors is a terrible idea. Not having an ecu to tune your afr is even worse. Do not put in a nitrous kit without having some kind of tuning option and a dyno day to dial it in. You will melt your cast pistons. There is some great information here on how to get things done cheap. The reason people who make reliable power do not go this route is because it cost more money over time to fix things when they break.
B20s aren’t the strongest b series, in fact I’d say it’s one of the weaker because of how thin the walls are in between the cylinders. And even if they could handle 500hp you’d never do it on a stock b20 or b18 non vtec head without a whole shit ton of boost which would help kill those Siamese walls even quicker.
You answered every question i had in mind to turbo my prelude. Very detailed video!
It’s been 3 years did you end up using the pistons and rods in the video how is it holding up?
Every tuner car needs this kinda guy for their ride.
Bro excellent series you got here
I'm currently building a turboed 92 prelude with the f22. This video helped to clear up some of the questions I had as I've never built one of these! I super appreciate you!
Glad I could help always double check the info the f22 should be fun
Hes dropping Gems , protect this man at all costs. Subbed.
You're shitting me right...?
I used the zex kit in the past with a 55 shot . Bought it used for 250$ . Worked great
Horsepower is built in the head, at the valve seat. Port and proper valve/seat job. Valve train next, go light with the retainers, valves, keepers and the right spring pressure for the cam you're using. More RPMs = more Power. Agree with forged rods but I would spring the extra $4-500 and get the forged pistons. Sleep better at night. Agree 100% about the sleeves for the h22
Your so chill. I love it
I finally got my automatic prelude running, I hope to be using your information for upgrades in the near future. Thanks!
Manual not auto g
@@noteddiee I'm buying parts for the swap now!
You've given me a lot to think about. Right now, I'm trying to get started in the Honda game and get myself my first fast car, like ever. I'm also trying to do it right, but I don't have a lot of experience buying or even building engines and it takes me awhile to save up even a grand so avoiding mistakes are HIGHLY valued. So, to me, my only options are to plan literally everything out that I want to do to the car. I'd like a B series, but they aren't all that common where I live and D series rule supreme. I'm sure I could have a lot of fun with a D series coup or something, but it would still take me a long time to learn and build it right. I have very little idea on how to get started and not just fall into a money trap with the first thing I get. Still, I'm not giving up though.
I just found a dream scenario at the junk yard. full H22A1 in a 98 accord with everything still in place. all I'd need is mounts and it'll all fit into my EK, but if the H22A isn't all that tough then I don't know if it'd be worth the sawp from my D16Y8.
Been ripping on my h22a1 for years now. No problems exept the balance shaft seals popped out on me but I think that was my fault lol
Hey man, awesome build. I'm in the process of building mine as well, the h22a4. Just wanted to hear your thoughts on a few things. I've thought about getting darton dry sleeves installed and then installing a supertech blockguard for the cylinders, just because its so much cheaper than purchasing and installing the MID. I've been told it should achieve the same strength as the MID, with keeping standard bore at 87 especially.
Also I've been hearing so many mixed views on balance shaft removal, in that it either is only an improvement to increase oil pressure, or is a factor that can cause oil pump failure and oiling issues, because I guess the internal vibrations. I've thought about counteracting said vibrations with maybe something like an ati super damper but I don't know, apparently those super dampers cant go past 400hp.
Can you post your build ?
Good excellent tips that can make sure enthusiasts are heading to the right direction, they can be safe and good or safe and better either way, your tips ensure they are headed to the right direction props to that!! @WB Racing
This is crazy i recently started planning on building my prelude ive already got a motor setup waiting to get torn into too
I can't believe I've never thought of just doing nitrous first! I'm gonna give it a shot! Great video brother!
Seriously!?
lmao
You also suggested a b20 for boost @ 500whp. Couldnt think of a worse idea
To thin on the cylinder walls I'm assuming?
@@nickcrye5585 they crack between cylinders even on na builds
True that
@@timm5970 even on stock hp too😂😂 don’t ask me how Ik 👀…. Trying to find a b18 with a vtec head so I can boost that instead tho…
it's well known amongst b series guys that b20 sleeves crack after 300hp. They need to be sleeved to make more than that.
Im definitely going to use this video for my build. very informational.
Great tips! Thanks for making this video!
I actually learned a lot. I'm gonna apply this soon.
Cool video I’m about to jump into a Honda but there’s so many people with wrong Inf
I think I got a f23 motor in my 02accord 2.3 my first Honda I've fallen in love with Honda so much fun to drive manual 5speed
you can make her fasttttt
Great video!
Ya. I want to build my f22a. But aftermarket is super hard to find parts h22 cranks are slightly different so I can't use those con rods I can use k20 pistons and good luck finding an f22A turbo manifold you can find em for the f22b all day I have a rebuilt OEM style head (might tear apart and find some better valve springs/retainers) although the rods and block can handle the power i just can't really find the parts for the head
I seen F23a handle 400hp with just headstuds. I bet it can handle 340 with just headstuds. If you want 400-500. I would do h beam rods, non VTEC head. epoxy block gaurd k20 pistons
great video man you opened me up to a whole other level , but you should redo this vid but only for us h22a1 people but make it 10 tips
are you making the h22a1 video man i hope so
What do you think about the nippon piston and rod kit? . So I currently have a h22a4 that I’m gonna rebuild and go to the 500hp goal what do you recommend? By the way great video
Hi bro, great video and accurate info. I have a crx b20 with b16 head vtec at around 200hp. How much nitro you think it can handle without problems? Thanks bro and keep the good work up!
I’m currently running a b20 aswell and want to do ls vtec. My goal is to have around 200 hp bc it is my daily. What have you done to yours to make 200?
Don’t push you b20 any further than 350 whp man. They have super weak bottom ends
Integra intake , wilder cams, proper fuel pump mushroom filter , Y1S1 gearbox, exhaust and good tuning @billymoreno470
th-cam.com/video/jygHy770Hr0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=TJomwRCS6DdhcFVM
That's my rex
Great video 👍🏾 H22a euro R
Same here man. He’s dead wrong about the b series being as strong or stronger than our h engines
Great vid!
prelude 3rd gen Na build big bore .040 over, LS injector, sport heads, sport intake, nos to top it off. Hope it grips around 300hp what you think I can do to make that happen?
I have a 1985 Plymouth reliant that I wanna put a k series in I’m guessing there will be a bunch of fab work
I subbed!
Im building f23 im going with forged pistons rods cam vavle springs ported head maybe sleeve the block and bore to 87mm turbo hondata s300 and shoot for 400-550hp
Dude that was cool
i have a 2000 sir coupe with the b16 and thats what im running not gonna turbo it yet tho, gonna see how much power it will make na
I've got a jdm 96 prelude Sir spec S and spare complete driveline of same vehicle ..I'm hoping the 1st plus tee ! Can take 8-10 maybe 12 on a one off ;p without opening of engine..however it will have turbo support mods ..springs s600 injectors fuel injectors pump and I'll try the shimming the oil pump ..wish me luck ..any requests or advice the 1st motor is on death row.. lol
feels like I'm watching this at 0.5x speed
I'm working with a junkyard found F20b that had a blown headgasket. Using an single cam F23 crank and rods and may just bore it to use nippon K pistons. all else is pretty much as you mentioned in your vid here. didn't want to break the bank for an engine found for $230
if you use an f23 block you can use k series pistons without boring the engine.
Thank you for that ..I have a question? My h22a is a type S now you said buy pistons and condos..are you saying my pistons are not needing to be replaced so do some nice cintods?maybe cryo
I've got an H22A (minus the 1) since ive got a JDM vtec BB4 chassis model but im guessing the process is same as described for the H22A1 and not the A4
it should be a closed deck, unless a previous owner swapped an a4 bottom but i doubt it, so it should be practically the same process
I have d16y5 gonna use D16Y8 head rebuild both internals then turbo. I'm new to this and trying to learn so any help is appreciated
Don't ever spray nitrous without a tune. Unless you want to pick up rod pieces of the ground.
What is the difference between the H22a4 or the AI I have the A4 in my 00 prelude??
I have a 89 ef hatch im not trying to build a race car but its all orinal expect wheels has the original 1.5 how costly will it be to put a h22 or b20 swap daily driver
Don’t ever boost a b 20 unless you like driving a single pass
I have a 130k mile 2005 5 speed Civic with a D17A1 motor what pistons would work
the goat!!
Any recommendations for a turbo kit for the h22a4 in my 5th gen?
Depending on setup, really piecing one together is usually the way to go. If it was a civic there alot more popular and have many choices. All I would see is purchase a quality turbo and wastegate, everything else doesn't have to be the greatest product out there. Cast exhaust manifolds are cheap they work well under 500hp and don't crack good luck
What if I have a H23A engine what should I do then? I know it takes some H22A and F series parts if I am correct
What brand ebay turbos would u recommend are good enough?
Question can the Transmission handle that much power tho? For a stock trans? Cause i have a 97 lude and im planning a build on my car right now i am planning on buying the nippon jdm pistons but just wanna know if the transmission can handle cause i don't want to blow that either
Stock H/F trans dont live long over 500.
I'm just starting a build on my 97 prelude h22a4. Switching from auto to manual and unsure about m2y4 or m2b4...this car is very clean and unmolested everything works and original as far as I can tell. I just need to find a place to buy trans with small the parts to install and work. Linkage pedals possible harness if i go with m2b4 and ECU? Shifter box with cables...if anybody got any suggestions I'd be grateful to hear opinions, i want to keep it simple atleast 300-400 whp. Thanks and great tutorial much abliged
The M2B4 LSD Trans is THE WAY TO GO! IFFFF, You're NOT doing the H2B swap.
Are u change the piston
I am building this set up but I have a few questions some say the pistons crack and can I run e85 without a problem
Under high horsepower they can crack....what are your goals, just know over 500 you have to start getting great parts not ok parts.
Hey Brad Is the jdm h22a any different from the a1 a4
Should I go wet or dry kit?
I have loads of questions dude would love your input
I don’t know about the difference between the jdm and usdm h22 motors, other than the different compression, but for nitrous kits you should generally go for a wet nitrous kit. Makes it so you don’t have to tie into the ecu to increase the fuel with the nitrous. Also means you don’t have to spend the money on a higher flow fuel rail and injectors
B20 is well known to be the weakest sleeves of all.
Hi. How much whp can stock B16 handle? What boost?
You ever find out? lol
Can I use jb weld as the epoxy ?
So people talk about using epoxy. Im not sold on that. Heat affects materials differently. If you have an epoxy wedged between aluminum then what happens if that dont expand at the same rate. I imagine you INCREASE the chance of destroying the block. If i have an open deck design im either not doing anything to it or using the same metal to make a block guard(aluminum block guard in an aluminum block)
Wait how can a smaller motor with the same block material handle more power? I thought an h22 can handle more power than a b series
H series and F series are much more capable of handling big power over the b series. This guy recommended using a b20 engine for a boosted 500hp build which is quite literally the worst suggestion he could have made. If you want to boost reliably H, F, and K all day. The engines have girdles which give the engine much more support. The f series is an iron block which is heavier but more sturdy(although have an aluminum head attached make increase risk of blown head gaskets due to the metalxs having different expansion rates). Many H series are closed deck designs that increase rigidity(I would never use an epoxy as a substitute in other applications). K series is just all around the most rigid and newer
I knew 400 hp was possible stock
Smth about k24a3 or k20a2?
I was under the impression that the b20 blocks are weak??? And Isn’t Recommended to go past 300hp do to Poor sleeves??
Yes the b20 has siamesed sleeves it is okay we have gone 230-240whp street/daily on them with no probs but excellent tune and maintenance is a must, we did 12.1sec with barely any grip back then
F20b!
Anyone think it's worth tuning a 2003 honda civic ex?
Yes and no, they can still be fun but the older civics are better all around
I like k24 only
no2 is the worst suggestion. Ez to blow shit up and most people dont want a sometimes fast engine, they want an all the time fast engine
What do you recommend
@@instantstory1692 turbo
Mines the h22a
Please don't close your deck with epoxy. It's not going to help anything. Send it to CSS
Or buy a block guard
@@mindless9965 to ad 550hp on a b20 block is a ticking time bomb. Jef at CSS doesn't even recommend it.
I do not understand why cast parts are used on engines. A cast part is never as strong as a part machined from a rolled piece. Castings are not even allowed on aircraft
Cost of manufacturing, lots of domestic cars in the 70s 80s and 90s have cast pistons and some have cast crankshaft lol junk
I'd subscribe but I don't want to kill them 666vibes lmao
Turbo charging a 2.0 😅
Closing the Deck with epoxy 😅
Everything else seems worth a shot.
Running nitrous without any supporting mods and especially a tune is a recipe for disaster.
Your pictures and videos are pretty decent - your verbal communication/output needs some work 🥹
*I’m out after the maxpeedingrods drop - I’d be careful taking all of this advice fella’s - hope y’all got a back up engine/plan* hahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa - wow wow wow
I respect your opinion everyone has one....I have ran well over 20 bottles of nitrous with no supporting mods....Just a zex smart box system design to do just that...it adds fuel pressure by putting pressure to the fuel regulator using there jetting charts. I wouldn't push high horsepower but 75hp shot is easily safe. Maxspeeding rod, eagle rods, scat rods for h22 and other hondas all start life as the same Chinese forged blank and are machined by whatever company sells them under there name.
While the b20 is readily available and cheap. It is by far the worst option for boost. You will crack a sleeve. Also do not cheap out on the manifold.
A log cast manifold will not flow properly and you will not get anywhere close to 350hp. There are affordable ram horns that will do a much better job at flowing exhaust through the turbo.
Nitrous without injectors is a terrible idea. Not having an ecu to tune your afr is even worse. Do not put in a nitrous kit without having some kind of tuning option and a dyno day to dial it in. You will melt your cast pistons.
There is some great information here on how to get things done cheap. The reason people who make reliable power do not go this route is because it cost more money over time to fix things when they break.
H series is way stronger than a b series lol. This guy is smoking something. The b20 is the weakest of the all lmao
Nippon pistons are trash.
noob
B20s aren’t the strongest b series, in fact I’d say it’s one of the weaker because of how thin the walls are in between the cylinders. And even if they could handle 500hp you’d never do it on a stock b20 or b18 non vtec head without a whole shit ton of boost which would help kill those Siamese walls even quicker.