reason it didnt rev higher (if there isnt ignition rev limiter) is there is valve float, its kind of its own rev limiter. If you guys put in stiffer springs and billet flywheel, it will be even better.
There is no valve float with these Lada engines, the valve springs are 3-4x stronger than modern cars, they're twice as thick. Lada engines have been known to rev to 11k with stock valve springs.
Maybe they did the smart thing and removed the same weight that is removed on the piston+rod. But i doubt that because they removed 2kg from the crank shaft....
I'd bet there's a fair bit of power capacity in a lada ironblock, plenty of material there. Not sure what they make stock, but maybe like 4-5x without much issue. Not sure you could call it a lada motor at that point though
Ok guys talking about Better valve springs etc... This cars limited rpm at first try at max rpm is down to the distributors 'bob' weights that reduce timing when the engine revs too high. Lots of ways to fix it like welding it so it doesn't reduce the timing. Or just replace with electronic ignition. Btw engine builder and 34y(48yo) mechanic.
Oooh OOOh OOOH! HAND RAISED like in school! My first gig after tool and die apprenticeship, was as a machinist at an import / exotic shop. I eventually learned how to lighten and balance assemblies for all the way up to 21,000 Rpm's. For F1 grade engines we balanced to 200mg. then end to end refined it to 20mg maximum deviation!! It was SUPER gard and took about 2 weeks straight to complete an entire engine by myself and send to assembly. But well worth it when your reaching past 15,000Rpms on a big V8 that should never be there at that piston velocity in the first place. Lube doesnt stick, shit get hot spots, its amazing its instant and its an engines death at full power. Plus it takes 45 minutes to heat up before starting for expansion to set in...Best wishes 54 from the other side of the world. Loved your cement wheels lolz! best ever!
Is not true, when I builded my 1.8T 20v 500hp engine is won't rev more than 7k. I changed nothing just stronger supertech valve springs and now my rev is limited by ECU at 7800.
Revs are limited by camshaft. With more sportier cam lada sings well over 9k rpm wihtout the load. On the load stock valve springs tend to float around 7-7.5k rpm. If you want more power from it then must cut few mm bigger intake (+also in manifold) and exhaust ports and skim the head and block. If more, then bigger valves, and 2x Weber 45 DCOE's.
Taking all the weights off the crankshaft I thought would be the death of the engine! Very surprising. I reduced the flywheel, con-rods and rockers on my VW Beetle engine and it does make the engine livelier.
The rev limit isn't about the weight of the components. Rev limit is about airflow and piston travel. Reducing rotating mass will allow it to rev quicker. My advice is to port match intake and exhaust to plenum and header, carb to intake plenum, and use a less restrictive exhaust. If able, you could increase valve size. My 1.8L uses 40mm intake and 33mm exhaust, and revs past 8k. Prior to my build, it was running 32mm intake and 29mm exhaust, and would flatten out at 5.500rpm. I also increased the throttle body size, increased cam duration, and use a 3-2-1 header into 50mm mandrel bent exhaust. It out accelerated a 2L turbo from 0-100kph.
The biggest change they need to make is to get a cam made with more duration and a tighter Lobe separation angle. I wonder if they could modify a Datsun L series cam to work in that engine? Even the stock cams in the Datsuns were a lot hotter than what this Lada engine probably came with. My L20b engine easily revs to 7000rpm under no load.
Some years ago I did exactly the same to a Datsun 1200 engine in a racing class I was in. Holy Crap! That thing ran like a sowing machine, Smooooth as, and talk about get up and goooooo!
Not combustion chamber Geometry, volumetric efficiency. The combo of the carb/intake/runners/head can't let enough air in. Bet the intake is starting to pull vacuum at WOT.
Testing weight reduction, and "tuning mods" separately would give a better understanding of what difference each does, hopefully, they can do a tuning mods experiment later; double webbers (or big manifold) 4 into one tubular exhaust, big valves, ported head, high lift rocker, long duration cam etc. The Americans get a LOT of hp per liter on their pushrod engines.
@@DashCamSerbia If it's possible to get a lot of performance out of a pushrod (as proven by American race engines), two valve per cylinder engine (they can rev to over 9,000 rpm (11,000 in the case of the Ilmor v8) and produce well over 100 hp per litre), it should be possible to get a lot from a Lada, with the advantage of an over head cam. I think the FIAT X19 used the same engine, it would be interesting to use the same tuning mods.
@@Dan-vq4pz The American press does not tell that since 2014 Ukraine has despised and committed genocide against the Russian-speaking population in Lugansk, Donetsk? Why did Ukraine bomb and kill these citizens, its own citizens who spoke Russian and supported Russia? Did these citizens deserve such treatment? And when Russia finally decided to stop this, did it suddenly become bad? Of course, it is advantageous for America to portray Russia as bad, because Russia and America have been enemies since the USSR. Trump is right, it is necessary to negotiate in order to end the war, but it is more advantageous for America to send weapons to Ukraine, thereby prolonging the war for years and oppressing Russia. Yes, Russia is bad, blah blah blah...
Light weight internals increases the engine’s ability to rev faster. It appears to hit redline much much faster now. The rev limit it determined by spring rate of the valve springs. Please keep developing this engine. It’s fascinating!
Weight reduction = engine response. Redline = valve springs, intake/exhaust porting, exhaust flow improvements, cam duration, ignition timing and carb jetting. More important than max redline though is USABLE torque curve and how it lines up with your gearing. An engine that spins 10,000rpm in the pits means nothing if it stops pulling at 5,000.
That was certainly a very cool video. If you can read that, G54 crew, please try again, by removing the flywheel or making it dangerously thin, and install a bigger carburator and a turbo, so it can get more air also. it will surely get to at least 7999 rpms. Cheers!
It's only needs a stiffer valve spring to do that. The valves no longer actually close at that rpm with weak valve springs that's what limits the rpm. Making stuff lighter will just make it rev faster
If you remove the flywheel, how is the engine gonna start? First of all, the flywheel is what keeps the engine from stalling when idle, secondly, the starter uses the flywheel to start the engine (unless you own a very old car)
You inspired me to build a G10A engine with light weight components and motorbike carbs, with this assembly i'm going to need tighter valve springs so it can make more rpm
Using shorter stroke pistons and con rods and crankshaft and stiffer springs for the valves. Reducing the weight like you did here makes it quicker to get to the top end and doesn’t sap as much energy from the engine to get it up to speed. It will also make it easier for the engine to engine brake quicker due to the reduced rotating mass (the flywheel effect). To raise the rpm you have to shorten the distance that the piston has to move between power strokes
there's a guy in Romania called "Nea Vio" that does sport conversions for our version of lada, dacia 1310. He uses an angle grinder and gets the rotating assembly reduced in weight.. eyeballing it. Each car runs smooth as hell and starts almost instantly. He is a master.
Всегда очень интересные видео. Вы беретесь за сложные проекты, и они никогда не бывают скучными. Я думаю, что Лады были сделаны практически неуязвимыми. (Always very interesting videos. You tackle challenging projects and they are never boring. I think Ladas were made to be almost indestructible).
man i wish a had a shop and could try doing this right. they already knew how much mass they removed from the piston and conrod, all they had to do was subtract that much from the corresponding lobe. killer idea though, could make one heck of a ripper until it breaks.
To increment RPM's you really need the engine to BREATHE better. It might be light but the breathing capability remains the same. Some porting and exhaust, also equialize the fuel mixture to cope with better breathing and you'll get more RPM's and power.
I've seen someone do the math on lightened flywheels and it's largely affected by gear, multiplied by the gear ratio (better in 1st vs 4th). That's one reason it jumped off the line but had no advantage near the race end. The large problem induced by removing the counterweights is there will be a severe 2nd order harmonic, causing the crank to rock the ends up & down at 2x engine rpm. It's usually just vibration you feel, but it can wear out front/rear main bearings quick and shatter crank-driven oil pump gears (not chain/shaft driven).
It's to do with intake manifold, fueling and camshaft I'd love to see this with a larger profile cam, better intake and fueling. Progress of the racing lada, I love it 💯 Should shave the head down next and increase the compression, more Weight loss and power gains for free with your tools 🔧 💪
Well done! If you do a part 2. Try swiss cheeseing the pistons, Drill 2 or 3 holes in the rod beams and drill the crank journals. Rifle drill the camshaft hollow and timing gear can be cheesed.
Especially in older engines, the revs are usually limited by valve springs. When the revs get too high the valves begin to float or stay open longer than the cam shaft is telling them to. The more float, the less power the engine makes, thus it reaches a balance point. Furthermore, cam timing is also a factor. It takes time for the exhaust to leave and fresh air to come in. However, there is less time when everything is moving faster. The cam can be degreed or positioned so that maximum opening is later in the stroke, providing a bit more time for intake and exhaust, but this decreases performance at lower revs. In other words, when the cam is advanced it opens the vales too late when everything is moving slowly, but at the right time when everything is moving quickly. Modern engines have cam phasers between the timing chain sprockets and the cam shafts that can twist the cam shafts using oil pressure to adjust the cam timing while the engine is running to keep the cam timing in the sweet spot for longer.
Have a manually advanced distributor. Lots of gassers back in the 60s used to have a bar under the dash to move the timing and get a little more timing out of it.
The weight is only a small factor when it comes to the upper rev limit, although the weight loss means it will reach the rev limit much faster. Balance is very important too if you don't want it throwing a rod out the side of the block, especially on the crank, but looking at this, I`d say its air flow which is the limiting factor on this engine. If you opened up the inlet & exhaust ports, improved their flow, added bigger valves, fitted twin Weber DCOE carbs using an inlet manifold matched to the widened inlet ports, then made a tubular 4 into 2 into 1 exhaust manifold to match the exhaust ports, you`d then see a serious improvement in performance & rev limit (& then find the breaking point of the parts you lightened!).
I hope you are making plans for a ONE MILLION SUBSCRIBERS video. With all the amazing videos you have done it will be hard to come up with a good one but i'm sure you can do it :)
Connecting rods could be even ligter. Grind and polish them inside the beam. Make the curves smooth and polish. Makes for more resistand to cracks. It does not rev higher because of limited carburation and risk of floating valves ( put in stiffer valvesprings ) . get it all well balanced. And if you have a 1500 cc engine you do not want to have light flywheel for launch. You need the weight of inertia fom flywheel. So about 6 Kg flywheel keep that.
Stiffer valve springs, lighter flywheel, maybe switch to points ignition where you can control the timing curve easier if that's possible, a bit of intake and head porting, and a bigger carburetor and you're set.
What also really helps is lighter wheels. Feels like you have a stronger engine. The car of my wife came with 195/55R15 alloy wheels. I put on 165/70R14 magnesium wheels and it allways feels like the car is accelerating in a lower gear. Especially at higher speeds from 80km/h up
To bring up max Rev is to replace the crank with a shorter throw (stroke). Then it's on to valvetain. Solid lifters, and stronger springs, Then re time the cam advanced of the crank by 10 degrees
Valve float is what's holding it back as well as intake and exhaust flow, you need a better head say...from a sport bike.. next would be shorten the stroke, bore out the block for bigger bore pistons to make an "over square" engine = higher Crank rpm.
Would be nice to do dyno before and after to see if/what difference in power engine makes. In theory like I guess reducing rotating mass should increase power but how much? Revving engine will not answer this question. I guess carburetor and intake manifold now are main obstacles for air flow preventing higher revs.
@@CVLova Probably less torque, but in a different way that I'm not sure would be as measurable on a dyno pull. Since they removed rotational mass, that means it's subject to being slowed down more easily. So when you start from a dig and dump the clutch, it drops its RPMs faster. Similarly, when you're WoT and shifting. I could be wrong though!
@@tomaszbudnik521 This does'nt bring you hp , this let the engine rev up faster and response faster to the throttle . Like a motobike and this is what makes you faster .
I think valve springs are one of the most important factors in the engines max RPM. But they lowered the weight of the valves, while the springs remained the same. They also lowered the weight of the rockers.
The crank shaft looks like one from a Model T ford now 😂 Needs a bigger cam or all that rotating mass reduction wont help much. It will just rev to the cams maximum engine speed faster! You need more duration or the cylinders wont be able to fill at the higher rpms, it doesnt matter how light the rotational assembly is. In fact the max rpm may actually be lower because you no longer have the inertia. At least once you get that cam the engine will be ready to rev to the 🌙 Love this channel :)
One reason why the speed limit is still at the stock level is the scavenging losses during the gas exchange. The next reason is that the engine still has a mechanical ignition system with a centrifugal ignition advancer and mechanical breaker. A electronic ignition system with programmable limiter could be the solution. But the unbalanced components thing is still there. Due to its design, a 4-cylinder engine generates a lot of vibrations, which must be minimized by coordinated balance weights and balance shafts. But unfortunately, these vibrations are not the same across the full rev band. There are some vibrations or frequencies that only occur at defined rpm, others that extend across the entire range. This is the reason why the engine sometimes sounds more or less rough at certain speeds. The high art is now to tune the whole engine mechanic with all her components and balance weights in a way that reduces most of the vibrations or push them so that they reduces each other. Simple to grab a angle grinder or a milling machine without balancing all the components afterwards isn't the right way. If you do so as shown, the risk that the engine flying apart is quite high.
It’s not about how high it revs, it’s about how much quicker it revs. Weight slows down revs on the way to redline. Reducing weight speeds up revs to redline.
With the reduction in valvetrain weight they did, it should still be able to rev a little higher than stock before valve float. I think most of it is a VERY mild cam. They can probably modify a Datsun cam which even stock is a lot more aggressive than the Lada cam likely is
all comments say the same, better valve springs, intake, exhaust and camshaft to rise the revs. but nobody is talking about the cpr of the pistons and the most important thing when wanting higher revs, the rod ratio and piston acceleration, not having the appropriate of those two and the engine will grenade itself at high revs
The rpm needle before the lightening reached a certain point and just kind of stopped. After the lightening it threw itself past that point, then came back down quickly, came back up then came back down, and that it didn't sling itself quickly up again after each drop it makes me wonder about the valve float and thus high rpm power loss. That mostly feels like the ignition has a rev limit of 6250 rpm baked into it somewhere. And not only that, the crankshaft imbalance limited the rpm to below the spark cut, limiting effective power at the top end as opposed to gaining theoretical power output. Get the crank balanced on a machine by installing the smallest needed counterweights and it should bang into the 6250 rpm rev limit rather than sagging to 6000 or 6100 as it did at the end. Then modify the distributor to prevent the weights from reducing the timing by basically removing them, it might need some manual tuning after though, but I only know lots of engine theory, and I don't know much about Lada or other Russian cars, I have no practical experience, so just take it as an idea to look out for if anything.
If you are going to do combustion chamber geometery, might I suggest doing Singh Groves to the head. The wedge shape combustion chambers in these engines lend themselves well to this mod.
Yes , bigger power but heavy makes it indestructible. Valve springs and ignition change would help. Also, removing weight makes a higher power curve but removes helping torque.
reason it didnt rev higher (if there isnt ignition rev limiter) is there is valve float, its kind of its own rev limiter. If you guys put in stiffer springs and billet flywheel, it will be even better.
They reduced the weight of the valves and the rockers... I bet the ignition module has a rev limit where it kills spark.
And the crankshaft is of balance. That can also contribute dramatically.
The crank is no longer balanced, so that is also limiting the RPMs.
There is no valve float with these Lada engines, the valve springs are 3-4x stronger than modern cars, they're twice as thick. Lada engines have been known to rev to 11k with stock valve springs.
@@VNCTHE1 good joke
Suprised the engine didn't shake to pieces after taking off the crankshaft counterweights. Awesome video
Its a 1200 or 1300cc engine and they balanced it pretty well.
Don't worry, it will fall apart if you drive it for a bit.
@@sven679 Surely! Removing the counter weights ... That is a sure way to kill your bearings.
Classic VW bug cranks don't have counterwights. It is a boxer engine that revs to about 5000rpm max though.
Maybe they did the smart thing and removed the same weight that is removed on the piston+rod. But i doubt that because they removed 2kg from the crank shaft....
Weight isn't the limiting factor on max rpm. Usually you'll need stronger valve springs to keep the valves from floating.
If done correctly it will be faster faster.
It takes less energy to accelerate, pure physics.
You start with flywheel.
But changing the flywheel can make the car feel awkward to drive in normal traffic.
So it will be multiple step process, before removing to much.
And a better cam profile; longer duration...
@@AnalogDude_a lighter flywheel will rev more quickly, but stronger valves will let the engine rev to a higher RPM
@@Mastermindyoung14 don't think so, i had a car with an early Bosch ECU and it would cut off at 6500 rpm, rev limiter!
Now just needs porting, polishing, bigger intake & exhaust, re-jetted carb, better valve springs, and that will bring in a "lada" power... :P
and an aggressive cam shaft
I'd bet there's a fair bit of power capacity in a lada ironblock, plenty of material there. Not sure what they make stock, but maybe like 4-5x without much issue. Not sure you could call it a lada motor at that point though
Ok guys talking about Better valve springs etc... This cars limited rpm at first try at max rpm is down to the distributors 'bob' weights that reduce timing when the engine revs too high. Lots of ways to fix it like welding it so it doesn't reduce the timing. Or just replace with electronic ignition. Btw engine builder and 34y(48yo) mechanic.
You guys are doing some really intense work now. The skills on this channel are really impressive.
Oooh OOOh OOOH! HAND RAISED like in school! My first gig after tool and die apprenticeship, was as a machinist at an import / exotic shop. I eventually learned how to lighten and balance assemblies for all the way up to 21,000 Rpm's. For F1 grade engines we balanced to 200mg. then end to end refined it to 20mg maximum deviation!! It was SUPER gard and took about 2 weeks straight to complete an entire engine by myself and send to assembly. But well worth it when your reaching past 15,000Rpms on a big V8 that should never be there at that piston velocity in the first place. Lube doesnt stick, shit get hot spots, its amazing its instant and its an engines death at full power. Plus it takes 45 minutes to heat up before starting for expansion to set in...Best wishes 54 from the other side of the world. Loved your cement wheels lolz! best ever!
More airflow = more RPM 😁 The intake and exhaust are your next restrictions to take care of
Is not true, when I builded my 1.8T 20v 500hp engine is won't rev more than 7k. I changed nothing just stronger supertech valve springs and now my rev is limited by ECU at 7800.
Exactly needs a bigger CFM carb with ported heads and free exhaust or at least a better muffler design.
@@laszloszell8753 thats because your springs were too soft and valves couldnt close in time
@@11sjv the situation is Same here with the lada
Agreed. It needs a turbo
You're exceeding the limits of your valve springs, camshaft, carburation and exhaust flow. That's why that thing won't go past 6 grand.
well they did lose a little weight on the valves and rocker arms and that would help the valve springs some
I have a diesel that goes to 8
Acceleration improved.
Revs are limited by camshaft. With more sportier cam lada sings well over 9k rpm wihtout the load. On the load stock valve springs tend to float around 7-7.5k rpm.
If you want more power from it then must cut few mm bigger intake (+also in manifold) and exhaust ports and skim the head and block. If more, then bigger valves, and 2x Weber 45 DCOE's.
Motorbike individual carbs
Taking all the weights off the crankshaft I thought would be the death of the engine! Very surprising.
I reduced the flywheel, con-rods and rockers on my VW Beetle engine and it does make the engine livelier.
I would love to see this engine rev higher, please don't give up.
The rev limit isn't about the weight of the components. Rev limit is about airflow and piston travel. Reducing rotating mass will allow it to rev quicker. My advice is to port match intake and exhaust to plenum and header, carb to intake plenum, and use a less restrictive exhaust. If able, you could increase valve size. My 1.8L uses 40mm intake and 33mm exhaust, and revs past 8k. Prior to my build, it was running 32mm intake and 29mm exhaust, and would flatten out at 5.500rpm. I also increased the throttle body size, increased cam duration, and use a 3-2-1 header into 50mm mandrel bent exhaust. It out accelerated a 2L turbo from 0-100kph.
The 4-2-1 exhaust is usually better at torques while the 4-1 exhaust is good for revs.
The biggest change they need to make is to get a cam made with more duration and a tighter Lobe separation angle.
I wonder if they could modify a Datsun L series cam to work in that engine? Even the stock cams in the Datsuns were a lot hotter than what this Lada engine probably came with. My L20b engine easily revs to 7000rpm under no load.
Had to scroll down this far to find the right answer.
Are there improvements on fuel economy when you do these modifications?
Some years ago I did exactly the same to a Datsun 1200 engine in a racing class I was in. Holy Crap! That thing ran like a sowing machine, Smooooth as, and talk about get up and goooooo!
Not combustion chamber Geometry, volumetric efficiency. The combo of the carb/intake/runners/head can't let enough air in.
Bet the intake is starting to pull vacuum at WOT.
Testing weight reduction, and "tuning mods" separately would give a better understanding of what difference each does, hopefully, they can do a tuning mods experiment later; double webbers (or big manifold) 4 into one tubular exhaust, big valves, ported head, high lift rocker, long duration cam etc. The Americans get a LOT of hp per liter on their pushrod engines.
@@joejoejoejoejoejoe4391 I am not sure about your last sentence.
@@joejoejoejoejoejoe4391 comment on the russian channel, in russian. it might get noticed:-)
@@joejoejoejoejoejoe4391Yeah, top fuel cars are actually pushrod, most people don't realize that.
@@DashCamSerbia If it's possible to get a lot of performance out of a pushrod (as proven by American race engines), two valve per cylinder engine (they can rev to over 9,000 rpm (11,000 in the case of the Ilmor v8) and produce well over 100 hp per litre), it should be possible to get a lot from a Lada, with the advantage of an over head cam. I think the FIAT X19 used the same engine, it would be interesting to use the same tuning mods.
8:18 The hanging scale has a smile face on it.
yeah lol 😂😂😂😂
: ) or even C:
More weight reductions for this lada! Less rectrictions, must be a race car!
I love this channel
Me too, it’s bloody great 👍🏼
Yeah but Russia bad 😑
I wish we could talk to the guys directly, still thanks for your work BMI Russian
@@Dan-vq4pz Russia bad? WTF?
@@serg3659well that's what the news tells me (American here), why would they lie?
(Edit: of course I don't think Russia bad, I'm being sarcastic)
@@Dan-vq4pz The American press does not tell that since 2014 Ukraine has despised and committed genocide against the Russian-speaking population in Lugansk, Donetsk? Why did Ukraine bomb and kill these citizens, its own citizens who spoke Russian and supported Russia? Did these citizens deserve such treatment? And when Russia finally decided to stop this, did it suddenly become bad? Of course, it is advantageous for America to portray Russia as bad, because Russia and America have been enemies since the USSR. Trump is right, it is necessary to negotiate in order to end the war, but it is more advantageous for America to send weapons to Ukraine, thereby prolonging the war for years and oppressing Russia.
Yes, Russia is bad, blah blah blah...
Light weight internals increases the engine’s ability to rev faster. It appears to hit redline much much faster now. The rev limit it determined by spring rate of the valve springs. Please keep developing this engine. It’s fascinating!
that is quite nice video production for a small russian channel. i really appreciate the english dub and the multiple video angles+ drone. well done
MIGHT I suggest painting engines with CHEVROLET ORANGE.This will make an additional 20 HP.😆
Yess, Cosmetic HP is key! 😆
Also need flames painted on the side of the car. Adds another 10
Chevy orange is so bad lol. I was imagining while watching how good that royal blue looked in comparison 😂
My opinion anyways 👆 to me that tone of orange automatically makes it look like a generic engine
@@Daileyandrew
Spoken from a true lada man 😂😂❤
Now do carburetor jetting and timing changes! A comparison with an all stock motor for 0-60 and such. Also install a proper aftermarket tachometer!
I second this
Just genuine guys being dudes and having fun
Minimum 107% faster engine,, 👍😅👍
I have to appreciate the amount of effort that went into making this video 👍
Weight reduction = engine response. Redline = valve springs, intake/exhaust porting, exhaust flow improvements, cam duration, ignition timing and carb jetting. More important than max redline though is USABLE torque curve and how it lines up with your gearing. An engine that spins 10,000rpm in the pits means nothing if it stops pulling at 5,000.
You guys are the best, you guys do all the fun stuff that I’ve always wondered about, thank you, I appreciate you all for brightening my day
That was certainly a very cool video. If you can read that, G54 crew, please try again, by removing the flywheel or making it dangerously thin, and install a bigger carburator and a turbo, so it can get more air also. it will surely get to at least 7999 rpms. Cheers!
It's only needs a stiffer valve spring to do that. The valves no longer actually close at that rpm with weak valve springs that's what limits the rpm. Making stuff lighter will just make it rev faster
If you remove the flywheel, how is the engine gonna start? First of all, the flywheel is what keeps the engine from stalling when idle, secondly, the starter uses the flywheel to start the engine (unless you own a very old car)
13:35 "You almost had me? You never had your Lada!"
You inspired me to build a G10A engine with light weight components and motorbike carbs, with this assembly i'm going to need tighter valve springs so it can make more rpm
You never had me, you never had your car. Granny shifting...
The drones shots during the drag battle are a plus!
I would think that balancing the rotating assembly would pay dividends as well.
Yes. They took too much off the crank vs what was taken off the piston and rods.
Using shorter stroke pistons and con rods and crankshaft and stiffer springs for the valves. Reducing the weight like you did here makes it quicker to get to the top end and doesn’t sap as much energy from the engine to get it up to speed. It will also make it easier for the engine to engine brake quicker due to the reduced rotating mass (the flywheel effect).
To raise the rpm you have to shorten the distance that the piston has to move between power strokes
Stiffer valve springs, tube header, billet flywheel and ported head 😊
Loved the video! It's impressive how much weight you removed!
I love how he translates the grunts as well
there's a guy in Romania called "Nea Vio" that does sport conversions for our version of lada, dacia 1310. He uses an angle grinder and gets the rotating assembly reduced in weight.. eyeballing it. Each car runs smooth as hell and starts almost instantly. He is a master.
Have these guys made a Lada Sleeper before? If not, it definitely seems like a good idea.
Всегда очень интересные видео. Вы беретесь за сложные проекты, и они никогда не бывают скучными. Я думаю, что Лады были сделаны практически неуязвимыми. (Always very interesting videos. You tackle challenging projects and they are never boring. I think Ladas were made to be almost indestructible).
One of the channel's best videos imho. A cool idea would be to decrease stroke and increase bore, in combination with harder valve springs 😂
Did this with my 1.9 vw tdi.
Runs amazing.
Less smooth idle
But immediate torque and MPG!!!
Weight reduction will make it rev faster you need heavier valve springs
Maybe try making the pistons weight matched and balanced
man i wish a had a shop and could try doing this right. they already knew how much mass they removed from the piston and conrod, all they had to do was subtract that much from the corresponding lobe. killer idea though, could make one heck of a ripper until it breaks.
That was interesting with the rev limit at the end.
That was good stuff and you even keep engine operational Light weight is secret motorcycle engine too 👌
Glad to see you guys still here. I thought TH-cam was banned in Russia
Well done guys! Thx for bringing this content for your petrolhead followers ❤
11:41 This is the universal sound of a car enthusiasts' delight.
Very nice show. I learn so much about the mechanics of an engine.
You need to control valve float and also make smaller journals on the crankshaft and you'll get the highest RPM
To increment RPM's you really need the engine to BREATHE better. It might be light but the breathing capability remains the same. Some porting and exhaust, also equialize the fuel mixture to cope with better breathing and you'll get more RPM's and power.
I've seen someone do the math on lightened flywheels and it's largely affected by gear, multiplied by the gear ratio (better in 1st vs 4th). That's one reason it jumped off the line but had no advantage near the race end.
The large problem induced by removing the counterweights is there will be a severe 2nd order harmonic, causing the crank to rock the ends up & down at 2x engine rpm. It's usually just vibration you feel, but it can wear out front/rear main bearings quick and shatter crank-driven oil pump gears (not chain/shaft driven).
I love that their drag race is the same speed as the traffic on the road beside them, reminds me of my friends and I :)
The valve springs to weak. Use stronger valve springs or dual springs. Is will rev till 8000 if get enough fuel
gówno prawda.
It's to do with intake manifold, fueling and camshaft
I'd love to see this with a larger profile cam, better intake and fueling.
Progress of the racing lada,
I love it 💯
Should shave the head down next and increase the compression, more Weight loss and power gains for free with your tools 🔧 💪
Well done! If you do a part 2. Try swiss cheeseing the pistons, Drill 2 or 3 holes in the rod beams and drill the crank journals. Rifle drill the camshaft hollow and timing gear can be cheesed.
Especially in older engines, the revs are usually limited by valve springs. When the revs get too high the valves begin to float or stay open longer than the cam shaft is telling them to. The more float, the less power the engine makes, thus it reaches a balance point. Furthermore, cam timing is also a factor. It takes time for the exhaust to leave and fresh air to come in. However, there is less time when everything is moving faster. The cam can be degreed or positioned so that maximum opening is later in the stroke, providing a bit more time for intake and exhaust, but this decreases performance at lower revs. In other words, when the cam is advanced it opens the vales too late when everything is moving slowly, but at the right time when everything is moving quickly. Modern engines have cam phasers between the timing chain sprockets and the cam shafts that can twist the cam shafts using oil pressure to adjust the cam timing while the engine is running to keep the cam timing in the sweet spot for longer.
Best video yet, well done, please do more with this engine
this is awesome. I'd love to see a long term reliability test
Great video!! i would love to see a full weight reduction on the car it self, no other mods, then a full tune whit all the other stuff!!
Now balance the weight reduced parts and increase airflow! Have a little NA rocket.
Love this kind of stuff!
Maybe put motorbike carburettors on it on an intake with bigger ports.
Yep like them, stronger valve springs for more ripems
Have a manually advanced distributor. Lots of gassers back in the 60s used to have a bar under the dash to move the timing and get a little more timing out of it.
That drag race was epic! You guys were really shifting
I love you guys and your attitude!
The weight is only a small factor when it comes to the upper rev limit, although the weight loss means it will reach the rev limit much faster. Balance is very important too if you don't want it throwing a rod out the side of the block, especially on the crank, but looking at this, I`d say its air flow which is the limiting factor on this engine. If you opened up the inlet & exhaust ports, improved their flow, added bigger valves, fitted twin Weber DCOE carbs using an inlet manifold matched to the widened inlet ports, then made a tubular 4 into 2 into 1 exhaust manifold to match the exhaust ports, you`d then see a serious improvement in performance & rev limit (& then find the breaking point of the parts you lightened!).
Need stiffer valve springs if you want more rpm, and the ability for the engine to flow more air, air is the biggest limiting factor.
It didn't rev higher because it's limited but the engine response became impeccable you can hear the difference
I have that exact hanging scale. It is super handy!
Love this channel and all the great ideas you guys come up with. 👍✌
I hope you are making plans for a ONE MILLION SUBSCRIBERS video. With all the amazing videos you have done it will be hard to come up with a good one but i'm sure you can do it :)
Connecting rods could be even ligter. Grind and polish them inside the beam. Make the curves smooth and polish. Makes for more resistand to cracks.
It does not rev higher because of limited carburation and risk of floating valves ( put in stiffer valvesprings ) . get it all well balanced. And if you have a 1500 cc engine you
do not want to have light flywheel for launch. You need the weight of inertia fom flywheel. So about 6 Kg flywheel keep that.
Stiffer valve springs, lighter flywheel, maybe switch to points ignition where you can control the timing curve easier if that's possible, a bit of intake and head porting, and a bigger carburetor and you're set.
What also really helps is lighter wheels.
Feels like you have a stronger engine.
The car of my wife came with 195/55R15 alloy wheels.
I put on 165/70R14 magnesium wheels and it allways feels like the car is accelerating in a lower gear. Especially at higher speeds from 80km/h up
Budget race engine? Two standard carburetors and long tube exhaust manifold? Love the videos and this one in particular!
To bring up max Rev is to replace the crank with a shorter throw (stroke).
Then it's on to valvetain. Solid lifters, and stronger springs,
Then re time the cam advanced of the crank by 10 degrees
Valve float is what's holding it back as well as intake and exhaust flow, you need a better head say...from a sport bike.. next would be shorten the stroke, bore out the block for bigger bore pistons to make an "over square" engine = higher Crank rpm.
Now! That’s what I call a hot rod Lada!👌🤣👍nicely done! Love this crazy channel!
Great experiment guys! Thank you for doing it, so we don’t have to! 😁
Would be nice to do dyno before and after to see if/what difference in power engine makes.
In theory like I guess reducing rotating mass should increase power but how much?
Revving engine will not answer this question. I guess carburetor and intake manifold now are main obstacles for air flow preventing higher revs.
maybe more hp but less torque?
@@CVLova Probably less torque, but in a different way that I'm not sure would be as measurable on a dyno pull. Since they removed rotational mass, that means it's subject to being slowed down more easily. So when you start from a dig and dump the clutch, it drops its RPMs faster. Similarly, when you're WoT and shifting.
I could be wrong though!
@@CVLova torque and power are related - P=9549xMxn it's fixed relationship.
@@CVLovaYes maybe 2hp and 2 newtonmeter because moving mass means almost nothing
@@tomaszbudnik521 This does'nt bring you hp , this let the engine rev up faster and response faster to the throttle . Like a motobike and this is what makes you faster .
I think valve springs are one of the most important factors in the engines max RPM. But they lowered the weight of the valves, while the springs remained the same. They also lowered the weight of the rockers.
Garage 54: *exists
Ladas across all of Russia: I'm in danger :)
The crank shaft looks like one from a Model T ford now 😂
Needs a bigger cam or all that rotating mass reduction wont help much. It will just rev to the cams maximum engine speed faster!
You need more duration or the cylinders wont be able to fill at the higher rpms, it doesnt matter how light the rotational assembly is. In fact the max rpm may actually be lower because you no longer have the inertia.
At least once you get that cam the engine will be ready to rev to the 🌙
Love this channel :)
One reason why the speed limit is still at the stock level is the scavenging losses during the gas exchange.
The next reason is that the engine still has a mechanical ignition system with a centrifugal ignition advancer and mechanical breaker. A electronic ignition system with programmable limiter could be the solution.
But the unbalanced components thing is still there. Due to its design, a 4-cylinder engine generates a lot of vibrations, which must be minimized by coordinated balance weights and balance shafts.
But unfortunately, these vibrations are not the same across the full rev band. There are some vibrations or frequencies that only occur at defined rpm, others that extend across the entire range. This is the reason why the engine sometimes sounds more or less rough at certain speeds.
The high art is now to tune the whole engine mechanic with all her components and balance weights in a way that reduces most of the vibrations or push them so that they reduces each other.
Simple to grab a angle grinder or a milling machine without balancing all the components afterwards isn't the right way.
If you do so as shown, the risk that the engine flying apart is quite high.
13:34 Paul Walker moment...
Dude, I Almost Had You. 🤣
yeah you nevert had your car hahaha
They look like they’re going so fast from above on the drag race… but the video of them crossing the line looks like they’re going 35mph max
Next plan put modifying carburetor, a new exhaust system and make some calisthenic mods and there you have it the amazing mascot for this channel!!!
It’s not about how high it revs, it’s about how much quicker it revs. Weight slows down revs on the way to redline. Reducing weight speeds up revs to redline.
The springs are what keep the engine back from revving higher I'm surprised he didn't notice that
With the reduction in valvetrain weight they did, it should still be able to rev a little higher than stock before valve float. I think most of it is a VERY mild cam.
They can probably modify a Datsun cam which even stock is a lot more aggressive than the Lada cam likely is
Any lada when this guy walks past: "Nonono I work just fine the way I am, get that wrench away from me!"
all comments say the same, better valve springs, intake, exhaust and camshaft to rise the revs.
but nobody is talking about the cpr of the pistons and the most important thing when wanting higher revs, the rod ratio and piston acceleration, not having the appropriate of those two and the engine will grenade itself at high revs
The rpm needle before the lightening reached a certain point and just kind of stopped. After the lightening it threw itself past that point, then came back down quickly, came back up then came back down, and that it didn't sling itself quickly up again after each drop it makes me wonder about the valve float and thus high rpm power loss. That mostly feels like the ignition has a rev limit of 6250 rpm baked into it somewhere. And not only that, the crankshaft imbalance limited the rpm to below the spark cut, limiting effective power at the top end as opposed to gaining theoretical power output. Get the crank balanced on a machine by installing the smallest needed counterweights and it should bang into the 6250 rpm rev limit rather than sagging to 6000 or 6100 as it did at the end. Then modify the distributor to prevent the weights from reducing the timing by basically removing them, it might need some manual tuning after though, but I only know lots of engine theory, and I don't know much about Lada or other Russian cars, I have no practical experience, so just take it as an idea to look out for if anything.
If you are going to do combustion chamber geometery, might I suggest doing Singh Groves to the head. The wedge shape combustion chambers in these engines lend themselves well to this mod.
Yes , bigger power but heavy makes it indestructible. Valve springs and ignition change would help. Also, removing weight makes a higher power curve but removes helping torque.
OHHH i been waiting for something like this!!
Fascinating!
Well done.
Excellent video. Thanks guys 😊
amazing content, well done boys! Dyno or 0-60 pulls would also be great