Monitor your wheel speed sensors with the rostech and see if one Sensor drops out or reads a different speed than the others . I've seen a lot of issues with sensors being pushed out by rust. Also make sure the tone rings on the axles have the same number of teeth. And by the way your best is actually great .
Hi Sarah, check the ABS ring on the drive shaft. It might be broken and change position which makes the ABS aktive. This is a common issue when there is corrosion at these ABS rings.
yes as frank says. this is what normal happends when you feel the abs in the pedal at low speed while breaking. it can also happen with magnet rings in the wheel bearings. because at low speeds it can sense a larger cap in the ABS ring and the ABS computer thinks that the wheel are locked and it will break off the breaking pressure
@@SarahnTuned The ABS feed back is most likely cause by a sliver of metal on the magnetic pick up. Or some one used a magnet to remove a peice of metal. Use your computer's data list a pay attention to the wheel speed all should match within 1 mph. The odd ball is the wheel with the problem. The sliver of metal bridges the the square wave form and a magnet will cause the pulse trigger to be wider. Dose not set a code cause data is changing and activates ABS because it thinks one wheel is locking up.. The system is normal just reacting to false data so no code.
As you cleaned the rings did you see any ring dents or something abnormal with them like they are not straight? Im still sure of its a ring thats causing it
I sure others will have already suggested it but,My TT did exactly the same spontaneous abs activation, Fixed it with a full set of wheel speed sensors a cleaning the rusty sensor rings.
Sarah, put the car on the lift and inspect the tone ring on each axle... making sure they're not cracked or damaged to any of the teeth. If you find any of those ... there is your problem.
Check the connection from the vacuumhoses to the brakebooster. This may cause the pulsing. Also compare the signals from the wheelspeedsensors together via VCDS.
Had a similar issue on my mk4 golf gti, changed sensors, didn’t fix it, changed tone rings, didn’t fix it...... eventually narrowed it down to the steering angle sensor, changed that and it fixed it. Your problem could be any of the above.... good luck hope you get it sorted! Keep the vids coming love watching them
OMG, those are ROCK solid measurements. On the third test, a booger landed on the windshield. Why is there only one of you in the world. I could use a 58 year old Sarah.
Stumbled onto your channel because I also went and bought myself a basket case TT and I ran into a lot of similar issues with the 1.8T. I had your ABS problems too. It would ABS regulate particularly often at low speeds regardless of conditions. In the wet ABS would sometimes kick in really late. In my case TWO culprits tag-teamed their way into making my life annoying: 1) The longitudinal sensor was just not working right. No error code though. Not that I saw anyway. 2) Sensors on the wheels themselves were pretty much done (rust mostly, I'd say). Swapping the longitudinal sensor helped the most. But the TT would occasionally just brake 'weird' with some ABS assist when I genuinely felt it shouldn't. Swapping the sensors on the wheels fixed it permanently. If you have any weird braking, just check the sensors at the wheels. Only one needs to be bad for it to do stupid things. As you live in AZ and it is dusty (like here in Cyprus), they can suffer a little bit more than the manufacturer expected.
For the problem you described that happens when you apply the brakes lightly and you get feedback (ABS actuation). I would check the abs wheel speeds sensors. If one of them is off, it would actuate the abs thinking one of the wheels is slipping.
Using VCDS, Log the four wheels speed (preferably at the graph mode) while driving at low speed (same speed u r having the symptoms) without touching the brakes .. and see which one is reading off, then move to diagnose that corner only rather than guessing
Even with all of the issues Sarah is having with the TT, I still want one bad. It would be a hecka fun project car. I've already had my A4 apart a few times. I'm not afraid of a little work.
Hi Sarah. I did some reading on German Audi forums what could be wrong with your ABS. The most people had a problem with there sensors not being put in all the way and having not the korrekt distance to the ring. Good luck. Still loving it when you do your thing. Respecting the hard work. Thank you for that. :-)
Great video! Love the science by way of rock measurements, it's exactly good enough! Thank you for giving the credit to the rubber, you're dead on with what the big brakes are doing for you. You could probably even shave another 10 feet off if you disable ABS for the test, it was kicking in(as it should have been) as you were stopping.
Each stop was better probably because each stop put more heat into the discs which increased the biting force of the brake pads. Because not all the heat would be dissapated after each stop.
Well, heated tires also grip better which contributes to the progressively shorter stopping distances. Brakes, in general, would tend to fade with heat buildup. So for me, it's the tires.
I wonder if the wheel speed sensor is reading properly at low speeds. I'd also recommended checking the flexible brake lines for small cracks. To check you must flex or move the brake line and look at it with a flashlight. These brake lines are know to dry out crack and eventually burst. When mine was doing this it gave me pedal feedback too, but my feedback most of the time was similar to a warped rotor. Good luck!
Reminds me a bit of our blazer that had the speed sensor in the tail shaft of the transfer case go out. Stupid ABS would activate any old time. I got a pretty good scare once when it decided to not let me stop for our driveway.
The multi piston calipers should absolutely add clamping force and reduce stopping distance. The smaller pistons allow for more pistons and thus more contact area and more even contact on the back off the pad. The more contact area, the more clamping force. That's why proportioning valves need to be replaced when you go with bbks.
Great video, Sarah. Actually, your methods for measuring brake performance ARE fairly scientific. "Consumer Reports' does essentially the same thing, when measuring stopping distance on the cars they test. They don't use rocks of course, but the method is the same. Keep up the good work.
Try getting the tracking done. I used to have the same ABS feedback through the pedal - mine was solved with tracking corrected. Also check condition of the ABS rings
Hi Sarah, clamping force is increased quite a bit in a hydraulic system by adding surface area, The more metal you push on with the oil the higher the force transferred. So 8 pistons will have more surface than than the OEM system. I don't know how many pistons were in the OEM system but 4 piston to 8 theoretically is twice the clamping force assuming the pistons are all the same size "where they contact the oil" . But you are also right in pointing out that tires make a big difference. Your first stop was horrible because the pads were not warmed up yet as well.
Factory front caliper is a single 54mm piston in a floating caliper. 8 small pistons at say 19mm diameter (no measurement listed, and two sizes on each opposing set) is almost identical piston face surface area. There is no spec on fluid side size, but caliper piston input-output surface areas are usually proportional.
What a cute little pink laptop. 👧🏼 Looks like it's running Win10. 😲 It's got to be a keeper for running 'basic' _(low graphics/memory wise)_ automotive applications.
I would recommend using a lab scope on the sensors. Yeah I know you might not have one. I had a car come in a few years ago that had abs kick in in parking lots when braking because one of the abs wires going to the sensor had a broke wire when turning the wheel to a certain point. Only time it would do it was braking in a parking lot when turning. Used the lab scope and scan data to see the sensors drop out. The scan data sometimes doesn't have enough data stream to pick up on the drop outs but the scope will see it.
The ABS Problem could be a broken ABS control unit. Its a known problem that something of the electronic inside brake after years. Here in Germany there a specialized companys who can fix that problem. Maybe you have a company around your homebase who can check and fix the control unit. Or you change it with one of the junkyard. It also possible that the ABS Rings are broken or rusted like hell and the sensor could read it. I had the problem with the control unit at an 1997 Passat and the ABS-Ring on a 1994 URS6. Good luck. You make a great job.
Like the color on your hair! Not 100% but the pulse could be pump related, you have replaced most sensors for abs without any check light so leaning toward mechanical issue in pump.
Fantastic video you did great, very scientific and informative thank you. You need to change out the abs control module. Had the same problem with a b5.
I have a GTI with a wierd glitch that its had since I bought it in 2012. If the engine bogs at all especially if the engine is still cold, the EPC light comes on and switches to limp mode. I have been hunting down the source of it ever since. VW/Audi gremlins are hard to kill.
I'm not sure if you already figured the brake issue out with teeter tot but from my perspective it sounds like one of your wheel speed sensors has a slightly larger gap and it's messing with the system in low speed braking conditions which is why the pedal will buzz at low speed braking.
If you can access live data from your abs module, try n look at the wheel speed sensors while the car is in motion, im sure one of them will have a slight variation causing the abs yo activate. This probably the easiest way to find out which one is the culprit. Otherwise like some other commenters said is to take the tires off and check the abs rings visually. If you have any questions, reply to the comment and I will send you an email.
Hey Sarah papa kirk love the hair colour. That is a very informative video. Thank you for all you do here on your channel and teaching people how to werk on automobiles. And you are awesome.
I had a car with the same pulsating brake pedal due to the ABS at slow speeds but no ABS light. It turned out to be that one of the wheel speed sensors wasn't close enough to the ring. A small adjustment and it was fixed.
That’s an unusual braking problem, hoping you get it figured out as I’m curious as to what is causing it. Looking foreward to the next video, power up...😊 Hair looks great btw 👍
Hell yeah - try to get a performance meter from some supplier. It will make for a lot of good info. Accel and decel etc. Although - with the correct App - the Iphone can do the same work to about 1-2% accuracy!!!
Hi Sarah, I have a 2003 GTI and am the original owner. I have had the ABS shutter at slow speeds too once. We have the same ESP braking system so this is what I found. Have your front axle shafts checked for security. Also check your front sway bar end links for security, meaning make sure the end links are attached to your subframe. My drivers axle shaft was the problem on mine. Once replaced I’ve never had an issue with it again. German tolerances are crazy tight and it was very hard even to see the difference in abs sensors using the Vag-Com. Hope this helps!
Sarah -n- Tuned Ok, Make sure the Rotor is .3mm from the speed sensors and theirs a Brake pressure sensor G201 that’s under the master cylinder you could look at, let us know what you find out.
Tyres, agreed. And whilst those big brakes might handle heat better, I’d still be pretty disappointed that they don’t make a big step change; standard brakes on all regular VAG cars are rubbish. Hopefully they at least give better feel or something.
Hi Sarah, I had that problem with the ABS in my 2001 Audi A8 D2. In my case it was the front right ABS sensor. It occurs that the cooper wires inside the ABS sensor cable sometimes they break due the fatigue (micro cuts), and with certain movements of the steering the ABS obtains punctual wrong measurements (no measurement means wheel lock for the ABS brain). It's a problem that sometimes shows up in the ABS faults and sometimes not. I spent months researching until the wire completely broke up and I realized after replacing it what was the fault. Hope it helps and good luck!
I was thinking the next time you put the car on your Lift. Start it put it in gear and check to make sure that you don't have a slightly bent axle and along with what the other guys are saying to check your tone rings and your wheel speed sensors and all that stuff too
You may want to check the TONE rings at the wheels. If a nub is broken or the tone ring is cracked, it will give bad information to the ABS computer and cause the abs engaging inappropriately. Good Luck.
Wow you are amazing in working it out and doing the science 😱 I just see if it stops faster if there is any pulling to one side and I like no abs just old school but I have to learn it myself😱 but I'm not computer wise for cars or any much lol thanks
Nothing beats a tall slender gorgeous girl in jeans who knows her stuff and yes quirky is what makes this so good Love the hair Love everything actually
Check the abs rings for cracks or damage , this is a typical symptom of bad rings and it will normally don't give any fault code registration in the system. You can also check that the sensors are reading the exact speed on your VCDS in the values under the abs system while driving straight forward.
@@SarahnTuned ok, so i assume that the rear abs-ring is mounted on the hub and not on the cv joint right? have you checked it for dents and twists? and have you checked the distance between the sensors and the abs-ring?
@@SarahnTuned ok, then I think I would recommend to change the hubs with the abs-rings first since they where heavily corroded and as you said it only marginally helped wire brushing them. They can be quite sensitive to the distance and also if they have a good build up of rust and dirt.
2nd gen silverados have a similar issue. Not sure how it works on Audi but if you have a wheel speed sensor, I'd see if they as red corroded. But like I said , I'm unsure if Audi is similar. Good luck with diagnosis. Love the vids.
not to sure on a TT but my350z was doing that and it ended up being a bent caliper bolt. it was only at low speed 5-25 MPH, took me for ever to figure it out
They definitely fail on these, and there's a chance Sarah's has an issue with another part of the system, but that isn't going to be the pulsation. When they fail for wheel speed sensor circuits(and what could be rebuilt) the signal bridge wires fail and will go open circuit. This will set a fault for failing the persistent circuit monitoring check the ESP module performs. For it to pulse, it is seeing a wheel speed of 0, which is different than an open circuit.
The ABS feed back is most likely cause by a sliver of metal on the magnetic pick up. Or some one used a magnet to remove a peice of metal. Use your computer's data list a pay attention to the wheel speed all should match within 1 mph. The odd ball is the wheel with the problem. The sliver of metal bridges the the square wave form and a magnet will cause the pulse trigger to be wider. Dose not set a code cause data is changing and activates ABS because it thinks one wheel is locking up.. The system is normal just reacting to false data so no code.
@@miatakid2 shouldn't that exclude the speeds under 10 kph? As far as i remember ABS on any car does not engage at speeds below 10 kph (or 15, not sure about that) So when she stated that she gets ABS feedback at "creeping speed" that would mean that ABS thinks the car is goind faster than it really does.
@@nirfz not to sure on the kph but here in the states I have seen this happen as low as 5- 10 mph ""parking lot speeds"". . in the shop every time I get this complaint that is what I find. They make this flim paper that has a ferrous fluid that let you inspect the magnetic pick up to see the wagon wheel spokes . this happen a lot especially if somebody replaced a wheel bearing as the pressing in part can shave the hub knuckle . also happen in the rust belt when disassembly some times knocks rust into the magnetic pick up
Great Job and it is braking pretty straight. Sometimes you have to spoil yourself I am constantly telling my wife this because it was always about our 2 sons both of whom have now since graduated from College so time to spoil momma. Awesome Job and keep up the good work !!!
As for the ABS pulsing, did you change the sensors or hubs? I've never had that issue on my TT, but I had it on my chevy. And I had to change the hubs cause that's where the ABS sensors are housed...
Watching this again yonks later.... Your science is solid. Do more "Gain access to a track" 2022 style. Science girl...AKA Airforce girl for the win. :)
i had a cadillac do that same thing on brakes , pulsate below 4 miles an hour , wheel sensor was bad,found it with a scanner, it wood work over4 miles an hour
Monitor your wheel speed sensors with the rostech and see if one Sensor drops out or reads a different speed than the others . I've seen a lot of issues with sensors being pushed out by rust. Also make sure the tone rings on the axles have the same number of teeth. And by the way your best is actually great .
Yep, it'll be that, or the wheel sensors have all kinds of shit attached.
Hi Sarah, check the ABS ring on the drive shaft. It might be broken and change position which makes the ABS aktive. This is a common issue when there is corrosion at these ABS rings.
yes as frank says. this is what normal happends when you feel the abs in the pedal at low speed while breaking. it can also happen with magnet rings in the wheel bearings. because at low speeds it can sense a larger cap in the ABS ring and the ABS computer thinks that the wheel are locked and it will break off the breaking pressure
The TT ABS rings are on the hubs, I replaced the front two sensors already and cleaned all 4 rings up.
@@SarahnTuned The ABS feed back is most likely cause by a sliver of metal on the magnetic pick up. Or some one used a magnet to remove a peice of metal. Use your computer's data list a pay attention to the wheel speed all should match within 1 mph. The odd ball is the wheel with the problem. The sliver of metal bridges the the square wave form and a magnet will cause the pulse trigger to be wider. Dose not set a code cause data is changing and activates ABS because it thinks one wheel is locking up.. The system is normal just reacting to false data so no code.
As you cleaned the rings did you see any ring dents or something abnormal with them like they are not straight? Im still sure of its a ring thats causing it
Jesper Frederiksen very minor warping to them
I sure others will have already suggested it but,My TT did exactly the same spontaneous abs activation, Fixed it with a full set of wheel speed sensors a cleaning the rusty sensor rings.
Sarah, put the car on the lift
and inspect the tone ring on each axle...
making sure they're not cracked or damaged to any of the teeth.
If you find any of those ... there is your problem.
Check the connection from the vacuumhoses to the brakebooster. This may cause the pulsing.
Also compare the signals from the wheelspeedsensors together via VCDS.
Had a similar issue on my mk4 golf gti, changed sensors, didn’t fix it, changed tone rings, didn’t fix it...... eventually narrowed it down to the steering angle sensor, changed that and it fixed it. Your problem could be any of the above.... good luck hope you get it sorted! Keep the vids coming love watching them
OMG, those are ROCK solid measurements.
On the third test, a booger landed on the windshield.
Why is there only one of you in the world. I could use a 58 year old Sarah.
Stumbled onto your channel because I also went and bought myself a basket case TT and I ran into a lot of similar issues with the 1.8T.
I had your ABS problems too. It would ABS regulate particularly often at low speeds regardless of conditions. In the wet ABS would sometimes kick in really late.
In my case TWO culprits tag-teamed their way into making my life annoying:
1) The longitudinal sensor was just not working right. No error code though. Not that I saw anyway.
2) Sensors on the wheels themselves were pretty much done (rust mostly, I'd say).
Swapping the longitudinal sensor helped the most. But the TT would occasionally just brake 'weird' with some ABS assist when I genuinely felt it shouldn't. Swapping the sensors on the wheels fixed it permanently. If you have any weird braking, just check the sensors at the wheels. Only one needs to be bad for it to do stupid things. As you live in AZ and it is dusty (like here in Cyprus), they can suffer a little bit more than the manufacturer expected.
Don't skip the ads lads. We've got the time, Sarah's gotta get paid.
Jay Why you got me fucked up , I’m skipping everything
Jay Why I care more about being able to fund better upgrades to these cars so you all have something more exciting than replacing junkyard OE parts.
@@SarahnTuned sorry, i have TH-cam Premium, so no ads, but sponsors really pay for the viewer volume, anyways.
I don't have a problem with ads when they're Freightliner ads.
I only skip the Ford adds. Hehe. The mandatory wait time still allows it to count as a view though.
For the problem you described that happens when you apply the brakes lightly and you get feedback (ABS actuation). I would check the abs wheel speeds sensors. If one of them is off, it would actuate the abs thinking one of the wheels is slipping.
I’m really impressed by your editing skills! Looks like a professional TV production.
Using VCDS, Log the four wheels speed (preferably at the graph mode) while driving at low speed (same speed u r having the symptoms) without touching the brakes .. and see which one is reading off, then move to diagnose that corner only rather than guessing
Even with all of the issues Sarah is having with the TT, I still want one bad. It would be a hecka fun project car. I've already had my A4 apart a few times. I'm not afraid of a little work.
Hi Sarah. I did some reading on German Audi forums what could be wrong with your ABS. The most people had a problem with there sensors not being put in all the way and having not the korrekt distance to the ring. Good luck. Still loving it when you do your thing. Respecting the hard work. Thank you for that. :-)
I had a truck that would tick the ABS when I came to a creeping stop. I ended up flushing the brake fluid completely with new and it solved the issue.
Wow, you fixed your abs system where I would have paid hundreds for that problem. I bow down. Nice work.
You said "That's the best you can do". Give yourself more credit Sarah. You are doing great.....
My Wife's TT S-line Quattro is a very nice car, with the DSG. Brakes are already damned good on it!
Great Technical information regarding the bigger brakes, and yes tires stop the car. Awesome!
Great video! Love the science by way of rock measurements, it's exactly good enough! Thank you for giving the credit to the rubber, you're dead on with what the big brakes are doing for you.
You could probably even shave another 10 feet off if you disable ABS for the test, it was kicking in(as it should have been) as you were stopping.
Each stop was better probably because each stop put more heat into the discs which increased the biting force of the brake pads. Because not all the heat would be dissapated after each stop.
Well, heated tires also grip better which contributes to the progressively shorter stopping distances. Brakes, in general, would tend to fade with heat buildup. So for me, it's the tires.
25 feet is an awesome improvement. Tires do play a decent part. Too bad you didn't do a before and after for the big brake kit. Bravo!!
I love your aircraft terminology, as an aircraft engineer I get it but I doubt most people will👌love your show Sarah
you are the best tester ever . i enjoy your hard work have a great day
I wonder if the wheel speed sensor is reading properly at low speeds. I'd also recommended checking the flexible brake lines for small cracks. To check you must flex or move the brake line and look at it with a flashlight. These brake lines are know to dry out crack and eventually burst. When mine was doing this it gave me pedal feedback too, but my feedback most of the time was similar to a warped rotor. Good luck!
If the diameter of the rotor changed to bigger then its obviously going to improve braking regardless of the clampimg force
Reminds me a bit of our blazer that had the speed sensor in the tail shaft of the transfer case go out. Stupid ABS would activate any old time. I got a pretty good scare once when it decided to not let me stop for our driveway.
PULSING PEDAL IS A SIGN OF ROTOR RUNOUT..use a dial gauge to measure runout and find out which rotor is the culprit
I know this is a braking video but damn this car sounds awesome
I have always liked this project, but I've never been much of a TT fan. However, as this progresses I'm starting to like the car too. Nicely done.
The multi piston calipers should absolutely add clamping force and reduce stopping distance. The smaller pistons allow for more pistons and thus more contact area and more even contact on the back off the pad. The more contact area, the more clamping force. That's why proportioning valves need to be replaced when you go with bbks.
Great video, Sarah. Actually, your methods for measuring brake performance ARE fairly scientific. "Consumer Reports' does essentially the same thing, when measuring stopping distance on the cars they test. They don't use rocks of course, but the method is the same. Keep up the good work.
Try getting the tracking done. I used to have the same ABS feedback through the pedal - mine was solved with tracking corrected. Also check condition of the ABS rings
Hi Sarah, clamping force is increased quite a bit in a hydraulic system by adding surface area, The more metal you push on with the oil the higher the force transferred. So 8 pistons will have more surface than than the OEM system. I don't know how many pistons were in the OEM system but 4 piston to 8 theoretically is twice the clamping force assuming the pistons are all the same size "where they contact the oil" . But you are also right in pointing out that tires make a big difference. Your first stop was horrible because the pads were not warmed up yet as well.
Factory front caliper is a single 54mm piston in a floating caliper. 8 small pistons at say 19mm diameter (no measurement listed, and two sizes on each opposing set) is almost identical piston face surface area. There is no spec on fluid side size, but caliper piston input-output surface areas are usually proportional.
What a cute little pink laptop. 👧🏼 Looks like it's running Win10. 😲 It's got to be a keeper for running 'basic' _(low graphics/memory wise)_ automotive applications.
I would recommend using a lab scope on the sensors. Yeah I know you might not have one. I had a car come in a few years ago that had abs kick in in parking lots when braking because one of the abs wires going to the sensor had a broke wire when turning the wheel to a certain point. Only time it would do it was braking in a parking lot when turning. Used the lab scope and scan data to see the sensors drop out. The scan data sometimes doesn't have enough data stream to pick up on the drop outs but the scope will see it.
Sarah! Harbor freight sells a measuring wheel for measuring longer distances.... like 125'.
Braking performance improved with brake temperature it seems.....
The ABS Problem could be a broken ABS control unit. Its a known problem that something of the electronic inside brake after years. Here in Germany there a specialized companys who can fix that problem. Maybe you have a company around your homebase who can check and fix the control unit. Or you change it with one of the junkyard.
It also possible that the ABS Rings are broken or rusted like hell and the sensor could read it.
I had the problem with the control unit at an 1997 Passat and the ABS-Ring on a 1994 URS6.
Good luck.
You make a great job.
Like the color on your hair! Not 100% but the pulse could be pump related, you have replaced most sensors for abs without any check light so leaning toward mechanical issue in pump.
Fantastic video you did great, very scientific and informative thank you. You need to change out the abs control module. Had the same problem with a b5.
I have a GTI with a wierd glitch that its had since I bought it in 2012. If the engine bogs at all especially if the engine is still cold, the EPC light comes on and switches to limp mode. I have been hunting down the source of it ever since. VW/Audi gremlins are hard to kill.
New hair color looks great. Both cars are getting closer to track days, excited!!
Great as always, but um where's the goofy intro Sarah?!
Chris Diana she’s so gotta use the falling off chairs and falling shots.
Nice video. Your T.T. sounds like a boosted Porsche. Good work and exceeding factory specs on those brakes.
*Pink laptop and pink screwdriver. I just realized all of my tools are boring! XD*
😁 Really i didnt noticed that
love the progress on teetertot. and love that haircolour. the pulsing might be wacuumleak for the brakebooster, I had that on my golf 4
Hi Sarah. Thanks for another great video. Glad the brakes worked out okay. Love from Michigan.
I'm not sure if you already figured the brake issue out with teeter tot but from my perspective it sounds like one of your wheel speed sensors has a slightly larger gap and it's messing with the system in low speed braking conditions which is why the pedal will buzz at low speed braking.
If you can access live data from your abs module, try n look at the wheel speed sensors while the car is in motion, im sure one of them will have a slight variation causing the abs yo activate. This probably the easiest way to find out which one is the culprit. Otherwise like some other commenters said is to take the tires off and check the abs rings visually. If you have any questions, reply to the comment and I will send you an email.
Hey Sarah papa kirk love the hair colour. That is a very informative video. Thank you for all you do here on your channel and teaching people how to werk on automobiles. And you are awesome.
I had a car with the same pulsating brake pedal due to the ABS at slow speeds but no ABS light. It turned out to be that one of the wheel speed sensors wasn't close enough to the ring. A small adjustment and it was fixed.
You could really hear the excitement in your voice throughout the video. Fun! Good job!
That’s an unusual braking problem, hoping you get it figured out as I’m curious as to what is causing it. Looking foreward to the next video, power up...😊 Hair looks great btw 👍
Hell yeah - try to get a performance meter from some supplier. It will make for a lot of good info.
Accel and decel etc.
Although - with the correct App - the Iphone can do the same work to about 1-2% accuracy!!!
First braking, then power. I like your priorities, lol. Nice work.
You might need to bleed your abs pump. But the pumping you feel is just the abs kicking in
Awesome stopping test! Interesting data you acquired very cool about you, Sarah! Great job on the tech end and big brake install!
Nice hair color Darling
You look like Jennifer Connelly's kid sister. Very nice. Significant brake improvement that could save lives when it really matters.
Hi Sarah,
I have a 2003 GTI and am the original owner. I have had the ABS shutter at slow speeds too once. We have the same ESP braking system so this is what I found. Have your front axle shafts checked for security. Also check your front sway bar end links for security, meaning make sure the end links are attached to your subframe. My drivers axle shaft was the problem on mine. Once replaced I’ve never had an issue with it again. German tolerances are crazy tight and it was very hard even to see the difference in abs sensors using the Vag-Com. Hope this helps!
f1620mm I have new front axles
Sarah -n- Tuned Ok, Make sure the Rotor is .3mm from the speed sensors and theirs a Brake pressure sensor G201 that’s under the master cylinder you could look at, let us know what you find out.
Sarah -n- Tuned that’s .3mm
Tyres, agreed. And whilst those big brakes might handle heat better, I’d still be pretty disappointed that they don’t make a big step change; standard brakes on all regular VAG cars are rubbish. Hopefully they at least give better feel or something.
Hi Sarah, I had that problem with the ABS in my 2001 Audi A8 D2. In my case it was the front right ABS sensor. It occurs that the cooper wires inside the ABS sensor cable sometimes they break due the fatigue (micro cuts), and with certain movements of the steering the ABS obtains punctual wrong measurements (no measurement means wheel lock for the ABS brain). It's a problem that sometimes shows up in the ABS faults and sometimes not. I spent months researching until the wire completely broke up and I realized after replacing it what was the fault. Hope it helps and good luck!
The sensor isn't based on tilt, it's based on g-force. It measures acceleration/deceleration, not angle.
Nice work! Glad to see you make this work out despite the setback you ran into. Keep it up girl!
thinking of throwing some brembos on my c class to do auto cross on weekends along with some bilstein b8s your an inspiration
Great video as usual. Your stopping distances would be shorter if you could back off the pedal force just before abs activates.
You might want to check out if it's possible to get an upgrade for the sensor, I have heard that the awd system didn't work optimal on the old TT.
I was thinking the next time you put the car on your Lift. Start it put it in gear and check to make sure that you don't have a slightly bent axle and along with what the other guys are saying to check your tone rings and your wheel speed sensors and all that stuff too
Sarah dig the new hair color, keep up the good work.
I miss those lines "Hi there, this is your friendly neighbor Sarah here" :P
imachrajeev Sorry! I don’t want to wear it out.
You may want to check the TONE rings at the wheels. If a nub is broken or the tone ring is cracked, it will give bad information to the ABS computer and cause the abs engaging inappropriately. Good Luck.
9:21 - 9:23 ! love how you catch them gears! shift game on point (:
Hey Sarah I enjoyed that video and I think you done a good job explaining your test methods and the results you achieved the dark hair looks great
Wow you are amazing in working it out and doing the science 😱 I just see if it stops faster if there is any pulling to one side and I like no abs just old school but I have to learn it myself😱 but I'm not computer wise for cars or any much lol thanks
Watch out Sarah my perv meter has gone off …...I think you have awaken Cornholio with your new look! Good job on da brakes!
Nothing beats a tall slender gorgeous girl in jeans who knows her stuff and yes quirky is what makes this so good
Love the hair
Love everything actually
You did a really great job on that TT
Almost had to choose between Sarah and asot 889. Thank god I have two phones 👍👍
Got to be something in your ABS module.
Check the sensor rings and sensors, distance between sensor and ring!
Fun...brakes look great, wheels and tires are awesome, hair looks amazing.
Check the abs rings for cracks or damage , this is a typical symptom of bad rings and it will normally don't give any fault code registration in the system.
You can also check that the sensors are reading the exact speed on your VCDS in the values under the abs system while driving straight forward.
ALB Garage I did, I actually cleaned them up too and it still didn’t help.
@@SarahnTuned ok, so i assume that the rear abs-ring is mounted on the hub and not on the cv joint right?
have you checked it for dents and twists? and have you checked the distance between the sensors and the abs-ring?
ALB Garage Hub mounted, it’s $100 for a set of 4. I might order some, mine were heavily corroded before wire brushing them-it only marginally helped.
@@SarahnTuned ok, then I think I would recommend to change the hubs with the abs-rings first since they where heavily corroded and as you said it only marginally helped wire brushing them.
They can be quite sensitive to the distance and also if they have a good build up of rust and dirt.
Time for all of us to try our own 'SarRock' braking test. :-) ..or in other words, 'You Rock' Sarah!
Wow!! awesome!! Love the brake tests!! Using rocks and telephone poles! old school technology!!
2nd gen silverados have a similar issue. Not sure how it works on Audi but if you have a wheel speed sensor, I'd see if they as red corroded. But like I said , I'm unsure if Audi is similar. Good luck with diagnosis. Love the vids.
*Are corroded *. Not , *as red corroded*. Sorry, new cell.
Check abs rings, they can split causing the odd bad reading.
not to sure on a TT but my350z was doing that and it ended up being a bent caliper bolt. it was only at low speed 5-25 MPH, took me for ever to figure it out
You probably have a bad ABS module. They are prone to go bad on those cars. You can send it out to get it refurbished.
They definitely fail on these, and there's a chance Sarah's has an issue with another part of the system, but that isn't going to be the pulsation.
When they fail for wheel speed sensor circuits(and what could be rebuilt) the signal bridge wires fail and will go open circuit. This will set a fault for failing the persistent circuit monitoring check the ESP module performs. For it to pulse, it is seeing a wheel speed of 0, which is different than an open circuit.
Sarah has vcds, which can do that, but that is very much not the issue at hand.
The ABS feed back is most likely cause by a sliver of metal on the magnetic pick up. Or some one used a magnet to remove a peice of metal. Use your computer's data list a pay attention to the wheel speed all should match within 1 mph. The odd ball is the wheel with the problem. The sliver of metal bridges the the square wave form and a magnet will cause the pulse trigger to be wider. Dose not set a code cause data is changing and activates ABS because it thinks one wheel is locking up.. The system is normal just reacting to false data so no code.
@@miatakid2 shouldn't that exclude the speeds under 10 kph? As far as i remember ABS on any car does not engage at speeds below 10 kph (or 15, not sure about that) So when she stated that she gets ABS feedback at "creeping speed" that would mean that ABS thinks the car is goind faster than it really does.
@@nirfz not to sure on the kph but here in the states I have seen this happen as low as 5- 10 mph ""parking lot speeds"". . in the shop every time I get this complaint that is what I find. They make this flim paper that has a ferrous fluid that let you inspect the magnetic pick up to see the wagon wheel spokes . this happen a lot especially if somebody replaced a wheel bearing as the pressing in part can shave the hub knuckle . also happen in the rust belt when disassembly some times knocks rust into the magnetic pick up
If your brake pedal is pulsating you could check for air in the brake lines...
Great edit a Sarah trade Mark. And your exhaust sounds "RIPE"
Great Job and it is braking pretty straight. Sometimes you have to spoil yourself I am constantly telling my wife this because it was always about our 2 sons both of whom have now since graduated from College so time to spoil momma. Awesome Job and keep up the good work !!!
I completely love your breaking science, thank you for such cool videos!!
Love the hair!
While this may not have been a totally accurate scientific test, it is a very good real world test. As always, well done!
i think you and i are the only ppl still keeping/tuning '01 TT's
As for the ABS pulsing, did you change the sensors or hubs? I've never had that issue on my TT, but I had it on my chevy. And I had to change the hubs cause that's where the ABS sensors are housed...
The bigger brakes may need warming up a bit to work properly which maybe why the first attempt was further than the others?
Sarah, you really rock. Them brakes.
Dark hair looks so much better on you now
Watching this again yonks later....
Your science is solid.
Do more "Gain access to a track" 2022 style.
Science girl...AKA Airforce girl for the win.
:)
i had a cadillac do that same thing on brakes , pulsate below 4 miles an hour , wheel sensor was bad,found it with a scanner, it wood work over4 miles an hour