Robo Hippy demonstrates his method for bowl sanding and his use of walnut oil on a sanded bowl. As well as a guest appearance by another Oregon wood turner, Larry Karlin of Bespoke Woodworking
Robo I've watched all (I think...) of your videos and this is by far, the best video ever! I learned more from this one video than many others by other turners! You really presented and explained several areas that I've always had questions on and I APPRECIATE all the time and effort you spent on this and all of your videos! Thanks for sharing and all you do to assist 'newbies' like myself! Again, thanks for sharing and safe turning to you always!
Don't make many comments on TH-cam vids, but just wanted to say how much I enjoy your woodturning vids. Love your style and also the fact that you don't try to preach to people. Good common sense instruction. Thanks for taking the time, its really appreciated.
Great video, thank you for taking the time to explain things so thoroughly. I'm relatively new to bowl turning and was looking for a shortcut or best method to bowl sanding. Thanks again
Thank you x10. Your instruction on bowl gauge tech. Has changed my turning upside down 360% better. Ive been muscle turning for years, just far out man thanks a shit load
Thanks for the great video. I've have problems with the tool marks. I also like your angled drill. Your explanation for the oils is great. I now see some of my mistakes.
Here's a quick and easy way to keep the drying oil rags safe. If you happen to have a woodstove, just toss it in. I use mostly tried and true linseed oil (vacuum heat treated/polymerized pure linseed oil) or pure tung oil. These dry much slower than the BLO with japan drier mixture that you buy in the hardware store, and I never had any rag even smoulder, but I also don't take any chances.
I always turn green to final thickness. I like the warped bowls, and they sell well. I don't think it takes any extra time compared to twice turned bowls, or bowls turned for dry stock, but it has been a long time since I have done one of them. Sanding supplies are from Vince Welch, VincesWoodNWonders. You can google that one.
Thank you so much for this informative video. Questions: Do you use a sanding sealer at any stage? Do remove the excess walnut oil finish before the one week drying time? Larry
Mostly for me, I have found dry sanding is a lot easier and less messy than dry sanding. The paper gums up, and you have to clean it more, and it takes longer to get the sanding done. Keeping your rpm on the drill down when sanding makes a big difference in how the abrasives cut. Vince Welch of Vince's WoodNWonders got me to try slow speed sanding. No heat. Also, there is an optimum speed where if you are going to fast, it is more like you are burning out your tires when drag racing. You just don't get traction. With the area of the discs, and the multiple cutting edges, too fast and it doesn't cut as effectively. Slow rpm on the lathe is necessary, or a 4 position locking headstock.
Reed, I see you finish sand and oil after your bowls have warped. I finish sand and oil when it's still on the lathe and then let them warp. Is one better than the other? Thanks, Lee
All warping is natural. I turn green wood, since you can't dry a log without it cracking, and I turn green to final thickness. Some woods warp more than others.... Madrone is one of the best or worse about this, and it never is predictable. Sycamore can warp as much as Madrone, but it is pretty predictable. Spring harvested trees also warp more due to having higher water contend.
There seem to be variable results with the walnut oils in the store. This seems to be mostly due to how they process/pasteurize/heat treat the oil. Some will cure, and some won't. I prefer the walnut oil from The Doctor's Woodshop, in part because he is an Oregon boy. Mike Mahoney also makes an excellent product.
Hi Reed, I just watched your 6 year old video on sanding and appreciate what I learned from you. I do have a question and it is if you seal a bowl with shellac can you sand the bowl down and then use walnut oil as your finish. I use the shellac to harden the fibers of the wood while turning a wet wood or green wood bowl.
Never used shellac. I have heard of people using it if they have bad tear out as it will firm up the fibers to help them cut more cleanly. If I am having bad tear out, then I go to a finer grit sharpening wheel, like 600 grit CBN. If it is really really bad, then I will use the leather honing wheel on my Tormek. If I am having bad tear out on dry wood, I have used a water bottle to spritz the wood, then take very light cuts to turn away the wet wood, and repeat as needed. I would worry that shellac would remain on the wood and then the walnut oil would not soak in, or it would soak in well on some spots but not others.
Where do you find the puffy pads with hook and loop on both sides so I can attach it to my drill? Or do I have to make it by gluing Velcro on both sides of a spongy pad and attach hook and loop sandpaper smaller in diameter to the pad? I’m having issues at the transition. I hand chisel and do not have a lathe. Thank you for this video.
I buy all of my abrasives and supplies from Vince Welch of VinceswoodNwonders. You can google him. I found it much easier to buy the products from him rather than to make my own.
I haven't tried the Festool, but have tried a couple of other ROsanders. They seem to work fine on the fine grits, maybe 220 and up, but are very slow on the coarse grits. Angle drill works better. Talking to a friend about using a cordless drill/screw driver. The prongs from the battery and the receiver plug in the charger should be able to be hooked up to keep it running without draining the battery or having to hold all the extra weight. A plus for that would be that the bearings should be a lot tougher. May have to try it out. Angle drills are drills, and we are using them as grinders...
Great educational video, as usual for us new turners. What was the pad made from that you applied the walnut oil with? It appeared to be one used for lite hand sanding. I have a live edge maple bowl that was turned wet. Will the walnut oil help stabilize the bark or what would you reccomend? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Been a while since I did this one, but for applying the oil, I use the grey synthetic 'steel' wool pads. They are supposed to be equal to about 600 grit or so. As for the bark, most want fall or winter harvested trees as step one. Step two is usually chasing all the bark with the thin CA glue. I gave up on keeping the bark on. It always breaks off eventually.
Thank You. I've been told to use CA glue on the bark but I think I'll just coat everything with the walnut oil and see. I used the CA to glue a piece back on, hit it with the acculator and it formed up. Luckily it was in an area that I could sand. A friend said that it reacted to the moisture/water. I have the entire tree cut and sealed. It was cut about 3 weeks ago and the trunk is about 3 ft. of beautiful maple. It's a learning process. Once again thanks for your help and sharing your knowledge.
Yes on the water making the CA foam. I let my green bowls dry before sanding them, just easier. You do need lathe speed of 15rpm or less to be able to keep the sander on the wood when the bowl warps. One video I did was 'articulated arm for sanding'. I won't sand bowls without it. I can rest my arm on the arm, and spin the bowl with the other arm. Really takes a lot of the work out of it. That is a big chunk of maple. I leave the logs whole and cut pieces off as I need them. I lose less wood to end grain checking that way. I do keep them on tarps, and covered with more tarps. Summer is our dry season. I did get one log of sugar maple, and after sitting out in the rain for a month or so, it was a rather bland grey color. Set them end grain on the dirt and you can get some excellent spalting.
Fredrick Sickelbower Fred, I was in Pittsburgh for the AAW Symposium. I don't know if you found this already or not, but this is how I made it. There are many variations, but the more enclosed the piece is, the better it works. th-cam.com/video/AZsVc7qVx7A/w-d-xo.html
+John Kartchner John, I am not sure what you are asking. I have a 3 hp Oneida dust collector, so big and heavy duty for a smaller shop. I did list the link to how I make the sanding hood, and have one whole clip on dust collection units.
I don't have a model number for it. It is the slow speed, and I think 3/8 inch drill. This version was made by Sioux Tools with the Milwaukee case. I believer Milwaukee makes their own drill now. I think most people opt for the Harbor Freight version which is a lot cheaper and has a 1 year warranty. Vince Welch of VincesWoodNWonders, had a drill that is a step or two up from that. Since they are drills and not grinders, which is how we use them, the bearings tend to go out. Main two things to keep the drill lasting longer is to use slow speeds, and keep the pressure minimal, both of which make the sanding go faster. Blowing out the inside with an air hose helps too...
Hi Reed, Maybe you can help me. I have been looking for the Milwaukee sanding tool you use, but can't seem to find it. Can you direct me to a source?, or a name for the tool? Thanks, Fred
Milwaukee, or actually Sioux tools does not make that model. They have updated it with a different trigger. Most people seem to go with the cheap ones from Harbor Freight now days. Most big box stores will have the Milwaukee drill. I think VincesWoodNWonders carries a drill. Not sure about any of the other supply places like Craft Supplies or Woodcraft.
I don't measure other than to check for even wall thickness. For the Madrone, I go about 1/4 inch. Some other woods like maple, maybe 3/8. Seldom more than that for once turned bowls.
I think that model was from a time when Milwaukee was having theirs made by Sioux tools. It is not made any more. This style is called an angled and/or close quarters drill. Milwaukee now makes their own. There are a bunch of cheap ones out there from Harbor Freight and others. There are slow speed and high speed models. I, and most prefer the slow speed models. The Milwaukee is a good drill. Care must be taken when using them for sanding since they are drills, and we are using them more as a grinder. Light pressure only, no more then the weight of the drill. Slow speed only, I never pull the trigger past half way. This is about traction. High speeds don't allow the abrasives to dig in and cut, and create heat. This is similar to a dragster spinning its wheels, Lots of smoke and heat, but the machine isn't going anywhere....
The drills I use are actually the old ones that Sioux used to make for Milwaukee. Not sure if any of them are around any more, other than rebuilt. I did pick up one of the newer angle drills that is now made by Milwaukee. It works just fine.
Don't know the model number, and they actually changed it. The one I use here is, or was made by Sioux tools, and they put the Milwaukee case on it. Milwaukee makes their own now. It has a rubber trigger guard cover that doesn't come off. You may check with Milwaukee, and/or some repair shops as some times they have factory reconditioned drills which are good as new, and for a cheaper price.
I use the Milwaukee angle drills. They aren't cheap. There are a lot of knock offs now, Harbor Freight being the cheapest. Not sure how much actual quality difference there is.
I sure miss watching you and your channel. Here’s hoping your doing well Thanks for everything. 👍👍👍
Reed...you are a superb teacher and I deeply appreciate your desire to share your expertise and experience!
Robo I've watched all (I think...) of your videos and this is by far, the best video ever! I learned more from this one video than many others by other turners! You really presented and explained several areas that I've always had questions on and I APPRECIATE all the time and effort you spent on this and all of your videos! Thanks for sharing and all you do to assist 'newbies' like myself! Again, thanks for sharing and safe turning to you always!
Don't make many comments on TH-cam vids, but just wanted to say how much I enjoy your woodturning vids. Love your style and also the fact that you don't try to preach to people. Good common sense instruction. Thanks for taking the time, its really appreciated.
Some great info in your video, Reed. Thanks.
Great video, thank you for taking the time to explain things so thoroughly. I'm relatively new to bowl turning and was looking for a shortcut or best method to bowl sanding. Thanks again
Thanks Robo for taking the time to explain your sanding and finishing...well explained mate..
Mick!!!
Awesome! Thanks for the very specific info on walnut oil.
Thank you x10. Your instruction on bowl gauge tech. Has changed my turning upside down 360% better. Ive been muscle turning for years, just far out man thanks a shit load
Best sanding video ever!👍
Thanks for the great video. I've have problems with the tool marks. I also like your angled drill. Your explanation for the oils is great. I now see some of my mistakes.
Very informative video. Thanks for sharing. Fred
i like your teaching skills! grtngs!
Here's a quick and easy way to keep the drying oil rags safe. If you happen to have a woodstove, just toss it in. I use mostly tried and true linseed oil (vacuum heat treated/polymerized pure linseed oil) or pure tung oil. These dry much slower than the BLO with japan drier mixture that you buy in the hardware store, and I never had any rag even smoulder, but I also don't take any chances.
I always turn green to final thickness. I like the warped bowls, and they sell well. I don't think it takes any extra time compared to twice turned bowls, or bowls turned for dry stock, but it has been a long time since I have done one of them. Sanding supplies are from Vince Welch, VincesWoodNWonders. You can google that one.
Thank you so much for this informative video. Questions: Do you use a sanding sealer at any stage? Do remove the excess walnut oil finish before the one week drying time? Larry
Thanks for doing this vid as you hit every mark. Question......When you let your bowls warp does it require more sanding time?
Mostly for me, I have found dry sanding is a lot easier and less messy than dry sanding. The paper gums up, and you have to clean it more, and it takes longer to get the sanding done. Keeping your rpm on the drill down when sanding makes a big difference in how the abrasives cut. Vince Welch of Vince's WoodNWonders got me to try slow speed sanding. No heat. Also, there is an optimum speed where if you are going to fast, it is more like you are burning out your tires when drag racing. You just don't get traction. With the area of the discs, and the multiple cutting edges, too fast and it doesn't cut as effectively. Slow rpm on the lathe is necessary, or a 4 position locking headstock.
i like your dust system
Good learning video.
Where are you getting the pads for your sanding mandrel?
Reed, I see you finish sand and oil after your bowls have warped. I finish sand and oil when it's still on the lathe and then let them warp. Is one better than the other?
Thanks, Lee
Excellent sanding video! Can you share your dust collection hood construction
Since watching you my turning has improved and I'm spending more money.A case of denial on my part. Lol
I like the look of the warped bowl. Are there any tricks for deliberately warping bowls to be like that?
All warping is natural. I turn green wood, since you can't dry a log without it cracking, and I turn green to final thickness. Some woods warp more than others.... Madrone is one of the best or worse about this, and it never is predictable. Sycamore can warp as much as Madrone, but it is pretty predictable. Spring harvested trees also warp more due to having higher water contend.
would you share where you get your sanding supplies from? BTW Great Video
Reed, Sorry I forgot to ask you the description of your Milwaukee sander and where to buy it.
Wonder what he made the dust collection system out of. Looks like a drum.
Are the bowls in this video, one time turned? Thanks
Love your videos! Can you use the walnut oil that you buy in a supermarket? Does it need to be specially treated? Thanks
There seem to be variable results with the walnut oils in the store. This seems to be mostly due to how they process/pasteurize/heat treat the oil. Some will cure, and some won't. I prefer the walnut oil from The Doctor's Woodshop, in part because he is an Oregon boy. Mike Mahoney also makes an excellent product.
How about a video on that dust collector you have on your lathe.
Hi Reed, I just watched your 6 year old video on sanding and appreciate what I learned from you. I do have a question and it is if you seal a bowl with shellac can you sand the bowl down and then use walnut oil as your finish. I use the shellac to harden the fibers of the wood while turning a wet wood or green wood bowl.
Never used shellac. I have heard of people using it if they have bad tear out as it will firm up the fibers to help them cut more cleanly. If I am having bad tear out, then I go to a finer grit sharpening wheel, like 600 grit CBN. If it is really really bad, then I will use the leather honing wheel on my Tormek. If I am having bad tear out on dry wood, I have used a water bottle to spritz the wood, then take very light cuts to turn away the wet wood, and repeat as needed. I would worry that shellac would remain on the wood and then the walnut oil would not soak in, or it would soak in well on some spots but not others.
@@robohippy thank you,for your help.
Where do you find the puffy pads with hook and loop on both sides so I can attach it to my drill?
Or do I have to make it by gluing Velcro on both sides of a spongy pad and attach hook and loop sandpaper smaller in diameter to the pad? I’m having issues at the transition. I hand chisel and do not have a lathe. Thank you for this video.
I buy all of my abrasives and supplies from Vince Welch of VinceswoodNwonders. You can google him. I found it much easier to buy the products from him rather than to make my own.
robohippy thank you
Have you ever tried the festool ro90? It spins and orbits at the same time. What do you thinks better?
I haven't tried the Festool, but have tried a couple of other ROsanders. They seem to work fine on the fine grits, maybe 220 and up, but are very slow on the coarse grits. Angle drill works better. Talking to a friend about using a cordless drill/screw driver. The prongs from the battery and the receiver plug in the charger should be able to be hooked up to keep it running without draining the battery or having to hold all the extra weight. A plus for that would be that the bearings should be a lot tougher. May have to try it out. Angle drills are drills, and we are using them as grinders...
Great educational video, as usual for us new turners. What was the pad made from that you applied the walnut oil with? It appeared to be one used for lite hand sanding. I have a live edge maple bowl that was turned wet. Will the walnut oil help stabilize the bark or what would you reccomend? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Been a while since I did this one, but for applying the oil, I use the grey synthetic 'steel' wool pads. They are supposed to be equal to about 600 grit or so. As for the bark, most want fall or winter harvested trees as step one. Step two is usually chasing all the bark with the thin CA glue. I gave up on keeping the bark on. It always breaks off eventually.
Thank You. I've been told to use CA glue on the bark but I think I'll just coat everything with the walnut oil and see. I used the CA to glue a piece back on, hit it with the acculator and it formed up. Luckily it was in an area that I could sand. A friend said that it reacted to the moisture/water. I have the entire tree cut and sealed. It was cut about 3 weeks ago and the trunk is about 3 ft. of beautiful maple. It's a learning process. Once again thanks for your help and sharing your knowledge.
Yes on the water making the CA foam. I let my green bowls dry before sanding them, just easier. You do need lathe speed of 15rpm or less to be able to keep the sander on the wood when the bowl warps. One video I did was 'articulated arm for sanding'. I won't sand bowls without it. I can rest my arm on the arm, and spin the bowl with the other arm. Really takes a lot of the work out of it.
That is a big chunk of maple. I leave the logs whole and cut pieces off as I need them. I lose less wood to end grain checking that way. I do keep them on tarps, and covered with more tarps. Summer is our dry season. I did get one log of sugar maple, and after sitting out in the rain for a month or so, it was a rather bland grey color. Set them end grain on the dirt and you can get some excellent spalting.
Here is a link to the clip where I make my sanding hood, I do get a number of people asking about it: th-cam.com/video/AZsVc7qVx7A/w-d-xo.html
+robohippy
I was staring at it in wonder, thanks for the link :D
Stan, scroll down a bit more, and you will find Bowl Sanding Hood.
I see you have a nice dust collection system on the lathe did you do a video on how you made it?
Fredrick Sickelbower Fred, I was in Pittsburgh for the AAW Symposium. I don't know if you found this already or not, but this is how I made it. There are many variations, but the more enclosed the piece is, the better it works.
th-cam.com/video/AZsVc7qVx7A/w-d-xo.html
Thank's
Tell me about your dust collection. It intrigues me.
Thanks,
JZK
+John Kartchner John, I am not sure what you are asking. I have a 3 hp Oneida dust collector, so big and heavy duty for a smaller shop. I did list the link to how I make the sanding hood, and have one whole clip on dust collection units.
$23 for the walnut oil concoction is a bit pricey for me. I do like the results though. Great tips, thanks.
Do you by chance have a Model # for the angled Milwaukee drill that you use. Thank you.
Jim in Stagecoach, NV Great Video
I don't have a model number for it. It is the slow speed, and I think 3/8 inch drill. This version was made by Sioux Tools with the Milwaukee case. I believer Milwaukee makes their own drill now. I think most people opt for the Harbor Freight version which is a lot cheaper and has a 1 year warranty. Vince Welch of VincesWoodNWonders, had a drill that is a step or two up from that. Since they are drills and not grinders, which is how we use them, the bearings tend to go out. Main two things to keep the drill lasting longer is to use slow speeds, and keep the pressure minimal, both of which make the sanding go faster. Blowing out the inside with an air hose helps too...
Hi Reed, Maybe you can help me. I have been looking for the Milwaukee sanding tool you use, but can't seem to find it. Can you direct me to a source?, or a name for the tool? Thanks, Fred
Milwaukee, or actually Sioux tools does not make that model. They have updated it with a different trigger. Most people seem to go with the cheap ones from Harbor Freight now days. Most big box stores will have the Milwaukee drill. I think VincesWoodNWonders carries a drill. Not sure about any of the other supply places like Craft Supplies or Woodcraft.
What would be the wall thickness and the bowl diameter in this particular video?
I don't measure other than to check for even wall thickness. For the Madrone, I go about 1/4 inch. Some other woods like maple, maybe 3/8. Seldom more than that for once turned bowls.
Great video. Anybody have a model to the drill?
I think that model was from a time when Milwaukee was having theirs made by Sioux tools. It is not made any more. This style is called an angled and/or close quarters drill. Milwaukee now makes their own. There are a bunch of cheap ones out there from Harbor Freight and others. There are slow speed and high speed models. I, and most prefer the slow speed models. The Milwaukee is a good drill. Care must be taken when using them for sanding since they are drills, and we are using them more as a grinder. Light pressure only, no more then the weight of the drill. Slow speed only, I never pull the trigger past half way. This is about traction. High speeds don't allow the abrasives to dig in and cut, and create heat. This is similar to a dragster spinning its wheels, Lots of smoke and heat, but the machine isn't going anywhere....
What model is this Milwaukee?
The drills I use are actually the old ones that Sioux used to make for Milwaukee. Not sure if any of them are around any more, other than rebuilt. I did pick up one of the newer angle drills that is now made by Milwaukee. It works just fine.
where do you buy your sandpaper disc's
+MANUEL GARZA vinceswoodnwonders.com/
Your thoughts on tung oil? Thanks!
Never tried it, and I am not really familiar with it other than by name. I do know it is a nut, and the nut oils will cure, though very slowly.
Thanks for the reply. The Real Milk Paint Co makes one that is food safe. I've learned a lot from your videos. They're very helpful!
I explain it more here:
robo hippy BOWL SANDING HOOD
Are most of your bowls turned “green”?
Yes, the more warped they are, the better they sell for me. "It's so ORGANIC!!!!" Also, there is a very short drying time, 10 days max.
What happened to you Reed...will you he continueing in this endeavor???
I did build a forever home and shop. Still getting settled in, after 3 years. I do have a bunch more planned.
@@robohippy I will be waiting for what you do next...I got a lot from your previous offerings...I hope to see more from you
Where did you build them Pluto...you been gone a long while
Hi! I'm interested in the MILWAKI DRILL USED IN THE VIDEO(PLEASE GIVE THE MODEL #)THANKS!
Don't know the model number, and they actually changed it. The one I use here is, or was made by Sioux tools, and they put the Milwaukee case on it. Milwaukee makes their own now. It has a rubber trigger guard cover that doesn't come off. You may check with Milwaukee, and/or some repair shops as some times they have factory reconditioned drills which are good as new, and for a cheaper price.
those drills look excellent but they cost a ridiculous amount of money in the uk.
What's the name of the sander
I use the Milwaukee angle drills. They aren't cheap. There are a lot of knock offs now, Harbor Freight being the cheapest. Not sure how much actual quality difference there is.
like that comment you made( it never works ) yes i know all about that it doesnt work just keep sanding with that grit tell you see it gone