How To Turn and Sand Without Dust [Try Wet Sanding!]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ย. 2020
- Woodturning produces a LOT of dust and if you don't have a dust collector and/or air cleaner, you're probably breathing in dust every day you're sanding (even when you're not on the lathe). Masks help to various extents, but keeping the dust out of the air in the first place is your best bet. Wet sanding is a great way to help control dust... and it's basically exactly what it sounds like - using water as a sanding lubricant (this could also be done with oil, but that's probably better for finer finish sanding at high grits).
People seem to skip through the sanding on a lot of my videos, so I figured I'd make one where the sanding is the highlight! This one is only sped up to 200%, so that makes this about a 1 hour project. In this video, I start with 180 grit, but if you have heavy tool marks, you might want to start with 100 or 120. I then move through 220, 320, and 400 grit. The sanding creates a slurry that I clean off periodically, but you could also let it fill in some of the grain and dry prior to finishing. I didn't let my bowl dry enough before I applied the oil, so I had to go back and oil it a bit more later on. Aside from that, the process is pretty straightforward.
This video has no commentary - we're working with new equipment and software, so we wanted to do something simpler. You should notice a significant improvement in the picture quality, but we're still learning what works best.
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Please note, my videos are for entertainment only. They are simply demonstrations and are NOT intended to be instructional. Proper training and experience are essential before attempting to use any woodworking equipment. Do not attempt projects or techniques that are beyond your skill level or your comfort level! Serious accidents can happen in an instant and bandaging wounds or sitting in an emergency room is much less fun than woodturning. You are always responsible for your own safety. The only rules are: 1) Be careful; 2) Have fun. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![Woodturning - Osage Orange Natural Edge Bowl [with Scorched Rim]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8qkUBsE74H8/mqdefault.jpg)
![Woodturning - Osage Orange Natural Edge Bowl [with Scorched Rim]](/img/tr.png)
Thank you. I've subbed to quite a few turners. Some seem to have stopped, others seem obsessed with live demos. Seriously, there are only a couple who are putting out regular 'normal' turning content. I really appreciate it.
Thanks so much! That’s pretty much what I’m aiming for - projects and ideas that don’t require a big investment in special tools or casting everything in resin, etc. Thanks for watching!
Great idea to keep the dust down. And I too have a boxer that likes to come hang out with me while I’m turning 🐶
Amazing job, congrats Dude! 👏👏👏
Thanks for watching!
Nice work. You and I are using the same cryogenic bowl gouge, and you and I are using the same depth gauge and you seam to be using a similar 5" sanding pad on your drill as well. I recommend klingspor soft 5" pads hook and loop. They are very flexible and form to the curve of your bowl very nicely. They don't bounce like the medium or hard pads do.
Thanks for the tips! I use 3" and, recently, 4" sanding pads for most stuff (and 1" & 2" sometimes). I'll have to look at the Klingspor pads again. I often make my own interface pads and whatnot, but recently I've just been using some cheap soft pads... although they work pretty well. Thanks for watching!
Great video Chad! Thanks for sharing this. I’ve seen wet sanding done with oil before but, I’ve never done it myself. My OCD would never allow it! Haha!
The wet sanding wood with water was new for me though. I may have to give it a shot sometime!
Great job man! And you’re right, the picture quality was great!
Seth
Thanks a lot, Seth! I don’t wet sand very often; instead I’ll raise the grain with water, let it dry real quick, then move to the next grit... seems to work pretty well too.
Great idea
Thank you!
So Interesting and Very cool Ideas...good job
Thanks!
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks welcome,,,
great job again chad, really enjoy all your videos. keep em coming. I'm a new and keen turner, would be great if with some of your technical procedures you could display on-screen with text or explain steps as you go.
Thanks, John! I'm still sorting out how best to approach the narrative/explanation part of it - it adds a lot of complexity to recording and editing, but I'm starting to figure it out. The next video will hopefully be a bit better in that regard. Thanks for watching and thank you for the feedback!
Nice turning. I haven’t done any wet sanding yet but one reference mentioned not to wet sand the interior of a bowl since the centrifugal force drives the water into the bowl. Just an FYI.
That's an interesting thought... I suppose it could force water into the wood, but it would be "free" water (what moves through the tree) rather than "bound" water (inside the cells), so most of the time that water should dry relatively quickly and without damage to the piece. But, then again, I mostly turn green or partly green wood. If you're using seasoned wood, then introducing that much water will likely cause problems. The shape of the bowl probably affects it too - a gentle slope will let the water run up to the rim and be thrown off, while a steep wall will hold that water and give it time and force to help it soak in. I generally turn green (or somewhat green) wood and just use a spray bottle to raise the grain and avoid letting the wood absorb too much water. Anyway, I'm just thinking "out loud" about it... Now I'm curious. Thanks for sharing!
Great work Chad...curious though, does the stock or end project absorb enough water to compromise it from cracking when finished and drying out or do you mitigate that? Best to you and stay healthy.
Thank you! I mostly turn green wood, so I'm pretty used to wood movement and since this piece was green I didn't hesitate to drench it. If I were turning much drier wood, I'd probably try to use less water to minimize how much is absorbed for exactly the reason you mentioned. I've been using this method from time to time recently and getting good results; however, this piece is now getting really fuzzy as it dries so I'll have to knock that down in a week or two and re-oil it.
Ah so! By the way, the Japanese turner I was telling you about is Yamabiko Wood Art and his specialty is creating very thin vase walls....he's also the one using the strong led's to light up the inside when he does the carving out....thanks.@@ChadEamesWoodWorks
Great topic! This sanding dust is an ongoing battle. Do you plan to use this more moving forward in your own work? Also I would be interested in hearing more on this in future videos. Thank for sharing this Chad!
I’ve been using it from time to time with decent results, but I have good dust collection so it isn’t a frequent thing. My usual process does involve raising the grain with water between grits - kind of a quasi-wet sanding method. Maybe I should do a video on that sometime. Thanks, man!
What size bowl gouge do you use the most?what grind? What make?
The bowl gouge I use most is a Crown Cryogenic with a 3/8" flute (1/2" shank). I use a swept wing grind and I think the bevel angle is about 60 degrees. I really like it. I've also had a Sorby one that cut very nicely. Thanks for watching!
Great Video Chad!...what is that you're sharpening your chisels with?
It’s a diamond card. They’re handy for touching up an edge once or twice to save a trip to the grinder. Thanks for watching!
Would you say that wet sanding changed anything else about the process, aside from producing no dust? Did it go faster, slower, require more care to ensure not making marks with the edge of the sanding pad? I am just curious as I have never tried it. It also looks like I could get away with it inside my house, instead of in my cold, cold workshop.
I feel like it’s a little more forgiving as far as scratches with the edge of the pads. It seems like it goes at about the same rate as dry sanding but it might be a little tougher to spot problem areas until the wood dries. If the wood is still green then you might get a little fuzz raise up as it dries (regardless of whether you oil it or not)... once dry, knock down the fuzz with something like 500 grit abralon foam backed pads and oil again. That’s actually what happened to this bowl. Still waiting for it to dry more...
Very nice project. What are you using for your finish
Thanks! I use a 1:1:1 blend of BLO, polyurethane, and mineral spirits for the majority of my turnings.
I’m not familiar with the BLO reference, what is it?
Boiled linseed oil. In the paint section at any hardware store. The mix is basically like danish oil. You can use multiple coats to bring the shine up, just a few for a soft sheen, or apply a topcoat of something after it cures.
Very interesting video...I've never considered wet sanding before, but I should try it. Do you use regular sandpaper or is there a special kind?
I use hook and loop sanding discs. Quality paper might hold up, but cloth backed sandpaper seems better to me. It’s not my go to method for day to day sanding, but it works pretty well.
Nice bowl - what finish did you use?
Danish oil. It’s what I use on probably 90% of my work.
Chad Eames WoodWorks many thanks!