Simply cannot say enough positive things about this video. I'm new to turning, so finding informative content on TH-cam (especially on chucking/holding wood) has been a must. As a beginner I quickly learned there are MANY different ways to accomplish this task! While I truly appreciate any & all channels dedicated to woodturning, I must say (to me) yours stands out above most others I have seen so far. Absolutely love your content & a huge thank you for sharing your your knowledge.
Hello Reed, I’ve been watching many of your videos, your relaxed and calm method of teaching is excellent, you explain everything thoroughly and in detail. Nice job and thank you for all the great information.
Best bit for me: Grain orientation relative to chuck jaws. Seems obvious now; I had never thought about it before! Close second: Creating a flat spot for a face plate -- a set of recesses made with a forstner bit. Thank you.
Excellent information Reed, especially in my view the grain orientation when mounting on the chuck to hollow out, makes total sense. Thank you Take care Mike
I am finally getting ready to get a good chuck for turning and the info you provided was fantastic. Thanks so much for a great video. Sizing the jaw gap small then cutting the tenon or recess, the dado angle, and the wood grain in relation to the jaws were nicely explained. Also the length of the recess or tenon so the block is seated against the chuck and its importance!
Well done! You explained why you prefer using a recess and when you would use one of the other methods. Too many simply say "This is how I do it." You explained why, which is often as important as how.
You make it look so easy! Your clear and explicit instructions gave me enough confidence to have a go. First few attempts were dodgy, but I've got it now. Thanks. Dave
Thank you for that comprehensive video. Very inspiring! I am making my first bowl out of sweet gum and am just trying to finalize my tenon to attach to the chuck. This is really helpful! Thanks again!!!
Hello Reed I really enjoyed this video this is the first time I’ve watched you I don’t know why I’ve never seen you come up before but I learned a lot and you teach it in a way that is easy to understand and you give many options and reasons why to do something or not do something I enjoyed it greatly thank you very much I will be watching more of you
Wow what a wealth of information! Long time woodworker just getting started in bowl turning and this was a great deal of very useful information! Thanks so much for the post!
Thanks Reed, not only are you a true professional turner, but you are also a very good teacher! You explain things in a way that makes perfect sense to someone who thinks in technical terms! Always based on science, geometry and logic. Easy to remember! Thank you so much... Charlie
Hello Reed, been turning for about 10 years now, and i used to size the the tenon with the dividers as you do , untill yes the right point just touched and sent them spinning out of my hand ( no injuries ) anyway no more , another turner on TH-cam measured his chuck jaws , harved the measurement of the jaws, right point is firmly on the tool rest at the center and the left is scribing , thats my way in future ,,. Stay safe ,,. Regards Alf
Great info, well explained. Never considered grain direction for recess mounting, which may explain some past excitement. You are a fountain of knowledge. Thanks.
That was a very good lesson. I'm glad I subscribed to your channel after first seeing your other video on making bowl blanks that was referred to from the AAW I received yesterday (1 Apr 2021). I'll probably watch this video a couple more times between now and the time I receive my first wood lathe I ordered. I really look forward to woodturning. Thank you for sharing.
Thankyou for the videos, very educational for a beginner. Now I will be able to cut my blanks from all the box elder I have and be able to put the blank into the chuck properly
Great video. it made me slow down and pay more attention when I'm mounting bowls. one correction if I may. The reason for not letting the shoulder of the tenon r3est on the chuck is that it won't allow the dovetail on the chuck jaws to pull the piece securely into the chuck.
I just started watching your videos - thanks for all the good info. This video is outstanding. It covers everything very well with lots of excellent tips. Thanks again.
Great video! I really appreciate the tips and methods you presented. Sage advice from an experienced professional! Thanks for sharing and safe turning to you!
new to wood turning and this is really good video, I learned a lot and now know how to fix some mistakes I have made, maybe I can save a bowl or two from the wood pile, Thanks.
This wood is Pacific Madrone, my favorite because every one on the west coast does Myrtle (California Bay Laurel), but most are not crazy enough to deal with Madrone.
Mike, I had to go to the shop and check.... I use the VicMark chucks exclusively, and I think in this one it is the 120. I use the smaller one for little things. When I got my first chucks, I called Craft Supplies, and wanted a Super Nova. The Tech said, "if you are going to spend the money, you should get a Vicmark'. I haven't used the others out there, but don't think the Vic can be beat. I am thinking about the Easy Chucks for the jaw changing abilities, but haven't gotten 'a-round-2-it' yet... Dove tail jaws do hold better...
Thanks. Just starting out playing with my first turn . Green wood screw is slipping . Have purchased a nova galaxy dvr with super nova 2 chuck. Will try your method looks like the best.
Great video. I have watched a lot of videos on wood turning. I have the Nova chuck with two rods and now i see why it's important to follow your steps. Sharp tools too. Do you have a video on how to sharpen your tools? I don't have any jigs but I have several bench grinders and belt sanders. Very interesting . Thanks.
I have a couple up on sharpening. One where I explain platform sharpening, another with a friend Larry Karlin who uses several methods including a belt sander, and another with the local Woodcraft Store staff. Up on my channel, or go to my web site.
Great video - thanks. Do you need to make your recess deeper than 1/8 - 3/16" and larger diameter for fresh green bowl blanks? If so, what dimensions do you recommend?
I seldom make a recess deeper than 1/8 inch. Most important is how wide the shoulder is so when you tighten up you don't blow it apart. My chuck jaws are about 2 5/8 inch, it is metric, but the drilled recess I do to turn the back side is drilled with a 2 5/8 forstner bit. For a 12 inch bowl, I want a good inch of shoulder outside the turned recess. You can get a bit smaller, bit not much. For a 14 inch bowl, I want 1 1/2 inches. I do core pretty much all the bigger bowl blanks and this is plenty to support coring. With dry wood, and if your chuck jaws are pretty new and not chipped from running into them with the McNaughton coring blades or your gouges, you can go to 1/16 inch and it is very secure. For some 6 inch diameter bowls, if I am using the big jaws, I can to to a 1/4 inch shoulder, but I am VERY careful on how I turn, mostly not really hogging out the wood.
Yeah I’m gonna look into it but the thing is I know it could be more expensive but I figure I should start out with the right if I have the opportunity go ahead spend the money and do it right thank you sir appreciate it we have a wonderful evening
Thanks for sharing these great videos. I just bought a lathe and am enthusiastically getting started. I am close to purchasing my first chuck and was going to buy one with dovetail jaws. Am I correct in assuming the forstner bit cutting a straight tenon technique will not work if I have dovetail jaws?
I realize I am 6 months late with this reply. I was also confused with the Forstner bit for Reed's first mortise. His first mortise has to be straight sided but I do believe it provides a good enough grip with his chuck while he turns the mortise on the opposite side with the dove tail circumference. I hope Reed will confirm my reply because I am not even qualified to sweep the shavings out of his shop but I have learned a lot from his excellent instructions.
It does supply plenty of grip. I do drill them 1/4 to 3/8 inch deep, and especially on bigger bowls, I keep the tailstock engaged. Some times I will drill deeper so that the flat of the bowl blank rests up against the flat of the chuck jaws. This is more for when the blank sides are not parallel and I want to work with the top surface being pretty flat, and true up the bottom piece. If you half turn a piece, then remount using the forstner bit recess, they never go back on true. With a hand tooled recess, you can get pretty close.
Reed, videos such as this are among the most helpful on TH-cam. I have watched and rewatched this several times. Which VicMarc chuck are you using? Recall the model number? Looking forward to meeting you in October.
I can't remember where I got mine. I think it was Packard Woodworking. Craft Supplies may have it as well, or you can take a 1/2 inch by 1/4 inch thick square end scraper and grind the profile on it. I have seen them with a dove tail on both sides so you can to a tenon or recess.
Reed, your videos are so helpful, I've watched many of them multiple times. Regarding the initial recess that you cut with a forstner bit. Obviously, the sides of the recess are straight once you've completed your cut. Later in the video you mention that the jaws you use are dovetail jaws. So if I'm understanding correctly, you are using a straight walled recess with dovetail jaws? If so, do you ever run into an issue with the jaws not holding the blank properly?
Reed, does your chuck have a dovetail profile? If one has a Nova, and you need a dovetail recess, I don't guess you can use a drill bit to make that recess, or do you?
Bill, I just got back from the AAW Symposium in Atlanta... great time. Anyway, I use a big forstner bit to drill the recess in the top of the blank, and hand tool the one for the bottom. I have the Vickmark chucks which have dove tailed jaws. I think Nova does now make dove tail jaws. Their standard jaws are straight with a tiny dove tail type ring at the top. You are supposed to cut a straight sided recess for that jaw, and the ring digs in for the grip. I prefer dove tail jaws for the best grip as they are a wedged joint and stronger than a straight joint.
Dig yr show Going to buy my first chuck but I’m thinking about getting a kit with all of it do you have any suggestions of what kind do you prefer thank you I appreciate it have a good day
I prefer the Vicmark chucks. I think they are a very slight step above the Oneway and Nova chucks. All are good, and if you go to the forums, you get a wide range of answers about chucks. The knock offs, like Grizzly and Penn State are okay, but not the best. Not sure about the Easy Chuck, which is one of the quick change chucks. It is expensive. Axmister, which is from the UK is also a high quality tool.
Thanks for the class. Im brand new, when you make the first recess with the forsner bit, do you not have to put a dovetail taper on the insides? how do you do that with a drill bit?
Well, you can't make a tapered recess with a forstner bit. After doing thousands of them, I have not found it necessary. I do drill at least 1/4 inch deep and tighten it up pretty tight, but not as tight as I possibly can as I broke some gears on a chuck once upon a time.... Some times I will drill 1/2 inch or a bit deeper. This allows the face of the bowl to sit on the faceflat of the jaws for a little more support. This comes in handy if you have a blank that is not perfectly parallel top and bottom. It makes the top side of the slab fairly even. The main thing the chuck does is provide drive for the blank. there is no risk of blowing the foot apart like you can do with the recess on the bottom of a bowl. Especially if the tailstock is engaged, the piece can not come off the lathe. If you ever need to retrue up the bottom, and the drilled recess is there, it is very handy, but almost never goes back on exactly. Pretty close, but some times you have to retrue up the outside of the bowl again.
I am assuming you only use dried wood? The two times I have done a recess and let the rough turned bowl blank dry, the recess warped so badly I couldn't figure out how to put it back to round so it would fit on my chuck.
+James Templeton James, actually, I turn green wood almost exclusively. I love the way it cuts. I turn once to final thickness, let them dry and warp, then sand and finish. Yes, the recess will warp to the point that you can not get a secure grip if you are twice turning. I think that is why just about every one I know will use a tenon mount for the twice turned bowls. It is easier to reverse mount on a jam chuck or spigot, use the original center point in the tenon to make sure it is true/centered, then even up the tenon, and then reverse and finish turn the bowl. You can get smaller jaws to expand into the recess when it is warped, but I don't think that mount is secure enough for turning stresses. It is fine for slow speed sanding though. I do show that on my sanding clip.
Reed, I am about to turn my first bowl and have been watching lots of videos. Your video in particular was very helpful! I have a couple followup questions. is there a rule of thumb for the length of the screw used to fasten the bowl blank to a faceplate? Any other words of wisdom for a first time bowl turner?? Thanks!
I guess in part it depends on the blank size and the face plate size. So, for a bowl blank in the 6 to 8 inch diameter range, a 4 hole 3 to 4 inch diameter face plate, I would want the screws to stick out 3/4 inch or so. For a 14 inch bowl, I would want a 6 inch face plate with 8 or so holes, and still screws sticking 3/4 inch or so into the wood. You do want the surface to be as flat as possible to prevent any wobbling, and I use deck type screws. Sheet rock screws are not a good idea because they are brittle, and will snap if you have a catch. Do have the tailstock up against the back of the bowl, especially for roughing. I do pull it away for finish cuts on the bottom of the bowl.
Well, if you have a face plate, then use a waste block and glue it to the blank and turn from that, which I do cover here. Other than that, depending on your lathe, just about all of the chucks have inserts so they can be mounted on different lathes with different sized headstock spindles. Depending on your thread size and tpi, you may be able to get an insert to fit, or even have a machine shop make them. I think the old Shop Smiths used to have some thing like a 15/16 spindle, and I think there might be an insert that used to be made for it, but no idea if it is still available. Craft Supplies used to carry a variety of them. You may be able to ask on some of the forums...
No dove tail on the recess. My tooled recess is 1/8 to 3/16 inch deep. The drilled recess is some times 1/2 inch deep so the blank actually sits on the chuck jaw face. With all of the extra wood around it, diameter wise, even I can't torque it tight enough to break that. I don't use the tailstock on bowls up to 10 or so inches. Anything over 12 inch diameter I do use the tailstock. Never had one fall off in thousands of bowl turnings.
Reed, used some of your techniques last evening on my first ever bowl and it’s going great. I mounted the blank to do the outside with a recess and it held very securely. I will be finishing the outside this evening and starting on the inside using a recess on the bottom of the bowl. Your material is very informative and practically helpful. Thanks again.
You mentioned that you were working with green wood! I have some elm that is green and wet,as I cut the bowl blanks I put them into the microwave for 2 min. at a time and then repeat said time.Some work well some don"t! (they crack)Can you give some of your toughs please!
Two minutes might be a bit long, more so as the blanks get more dry. I wouldn't go over a minute at a time. It might depend some on how thick the blanks are as well. I would think thicker ones would be more prone to splitting than thin, like 1/4 inch ones would.
Reed, This is a great video...learned much. Have a question on use of face plates. Somewhere I seemed to have seen where it is unwise to use a face plate on end grain similar to avoiding a mortise on end grain. Can you comment?
Well, if you watch any of Lyle Jamieson's videos, he used lag bolts with his face plates to do all of his hollow forms. Generally though straight screws into end grain tend to work loose like nails into end grain. With the nails, you have to toe nail, or go in at an angle, then they hold better. I think Lyle uses a bigger screw/bolt, with a coarse thread.
On the recess you made with your drill press it did not appear that you had any angle for a dovetail. Did you do anything to change the angle off camera? Great video!
No shaping at all. I do make it deeper, and often deep enough so that the face of the chuck rests against the wood. This does provide plenty of support. On bowls in the 12 inch diameter range, I will use the tailstock for support. This does provide plenty of drive for the wood, and I have never had it spin out or dismount. I do crank on the chuck key a bit more than I do when the bowl is reversed.
robohippy thanks for the quick response. One more question. I have a Oneway chuck which doesn't use a dovetail. Do you find that dovetail chucks like a Nova hold better with a recess? I have had a few bowls make a run for the border and am looking for ways to improve the hold. Your video taught me some good tricks but i still wonder if a dovetail chuck would be better for me.
You happened to catch me at the computer... I do prefer the dove tail jaws. As one turner said, 'you have a locking wedge joint'. this does hold better than a straight joint, kind of like dove tail vs finger joint in furniture work. I use the Vicmark chucks, in part because they are really heavy duty. Nova has recently, last 5 years or so, started making dove tail jaws for their chucks, probably for the above reason. Can't remember if Oneway offers dove tail jaws or not.
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
![F.HERO Ft. JSPKK x ลำไย ไหทองคำ x M-PEE - ไม่สนิทบิดหมด (Thai Riders Anthem) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kPJZ0UihBfk/mqdefault.jpg)
Best turning teacher on TH-cam. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience 👍
That Forstner bit trick you did to make a flat was brilliant!
I don't think it was original, and I think I saw Richard Raffen use a forstner bit to drill a recess. Can't remember it was a while back...
Simply cannot say enough positive things about this video. I'm new to turning, so finding informative content on TH-cam (especially on chucking/holding wood) has been a must. As a beginner I quickly learned there are MANY different ways to accomplish this task! While I truly appreciate any & all channels dedicated to woodturning, I must say (to me) yours stands out above most others I have seen so far. Absolutely love your content & a huge thank you for sharing your your knowledge.
Reed, great info covering all the methods of mounting blanks to turn. wish I had seen this earlier, but now I will never forget. thanks again, Joel
This is excellent instruction.
Your legacy will carry on through many others.
thanks Reed your explanations and demonstrations are explicit 👌
One of those hidden gem videos. Explains all the things I've been doing wrong. Wish I found this about four months ago when I started wood turning!
Thank you so much @Robohippy! I am new to woodturning, and I have learned an enormous amount from your videos!
Hello Reed, I’ve been watching many of your videos, your relaxed and calm method of teaching is excellent, you explain everything thoroughly and in detail. Nice job and thank you for all the great information.
Your information and tips are useful, and your work is graceful and lovely. I’ve learned quite a bit here.
Best bit for me: Grain orientation relative to chuck jaws. Seems obvious now; I had never thought about it before!
Close second: Creating a flat spot for a face plate -- a set of recesses made with a forstner bit.
Thank you.
I have watched many videos waiting for a larger lathe. This is by far the best. Thank you for the examples. I can’t wait to turn larger projects.
Excellent information Reed, especially in my view the grain orientation when mounting on the chuck to hollow out, makes total sense. Thank you
Take care
Mike
Oh man that's a great tip, especially if turning at different times, or with fragile thin bottoms etc.
I'll 3rd that - Never end thought about it.
I am finally getting ready to get a good chuck for turning and the info you provided was fantastic. Thanks so much for a great video. Sizing the jaw gap small then cutting the tenon or recess, the dado angle, and the wood grain in relation to the jaws were nicely explained. Also the length of the recess or tenon so the block is seated against the chuck and its importance!
Well done! You explained why you prefer using a recess and when you would use one of the other methods. Too many simply say "This is how I do it." You explained why, which is often as important as how.
You make it look so easy! Your clear and explicit instructions gave me enough confidence to have a go. First few attempts were dodgy, but I've got it now. Thanks. Dave
Thank you for that comprehensive video. Very inspiring! I am making my first bowl out of sweet gum and am just trying to finalize my tenon to attach to the chuck. This is really helpful! Thanks again!!!
Hello Reed I really enjoyed this video this is the first time I’ve watched you I don’t know why I’ve never seen you come up before but I learned a lot and you teach it in a way that is easy to understand and you give many options and reasons why to do something or not do something I enjoyed it greatly thank you very much I will be watching more of you
Excellent tutorial. Great learning tool for beginners to intermediate level. Quite calming voice, conducive to learning. Thank you 🙏!
Wow what a wealth of information! Long time woodworker just getting started in bowl turning and this was a great deal of very useful information! Thanks so much for the post!
Great video, Reed. I like your idea of flattening with a forstner bit.
Excellent video specially the slow speed view. Lots of good teaching points. Keep them coming. Thanks.
Thanks Reed, not only are you a true professional turner, but you are also a very good teacher! You explain things in a way that makes perfect sense to someone who thinks in technical terms! Always based on science, geometry and logic. Easy to remember! Thank you so much... Charlie
Packed full of great information, presented in an easy to understand way. Thankyou.
Hello Reed, been turning for about 10 years now, and i used to size the the tenon with the dividers as you do , untill yes the right point just touched and sent them spinning out of my hand ( no injuries ) anyway no more , another turner on TH-cam measured his chuck jaws , harved the measurement of the jaws, right point is firmly on the tool rest at the center and the left is scribing , thats my way in future ,,. Stay safe ,,. Regards Alf
Thanks Reed: very well demonstrated and explained, Cheers Harry
excellent video. much better than many I have seen. thank you.
Really good tips on how to safely handle this part of turning a bowl.
Great info, well explained. Never considered grain direction for recess mounting, which may explain some past excitement. You are a fountain of knowledge. Thanks.
I'm a new turner and this is one of the most helpful videos I've seen. Thank you!
That was a very good lesson. I'm glad I subscribed to your channel after first seeing your other video on making bowl blanks that was referred to from the AAW I received yesterday (1 Apr 2021). I'll probably watch this video a couple more times between now and the time I receive my first wood lathe I ordered. I really look forward to woodturning. Thank you for sharing.
Finally, someone who speaks plain enough to understand.
Thankyou for the videos, very educational for a beginner. Now I will be able to cut my blanks from all the box elder I have and be able to put the blank into the chuck properly
Great video. it made me slow down and pay more attention when I'm mounting bowls. one correction if I may. The reason for not letting the shoulder of the tenon r3est on the chuck is that it won't allow the dovetail on the chuck jaws to pull the piece securely into the chuck.
Thanks Reed, this was very well thought out and extremely useful as a consequence. Cheers, Gord
Thanks for the video. I am a new turner and always enjoy learning.
Great video and a great warped large bowl. I love it when bowls do that and stay stable. Thanks! Very informative!
Wow.... I learn a LOT from you.... Thank you much....
Reed, thank you! Your videos are a wealth of good information‼️
Great information. I appreciate your posting this video.
One of the best videos I've seen!
I just started watching your videos - thanks for all the good info. This video is outstanding. It covers everything very well with lots of excellent tips. Thanks again.
Very informative video Mr. Gray. Thank you.
Great video! I really appreciate the tips and methods you presented. Sage advice from an experienced professional! Thanks for sharing and safe turning to you!
Thanks Robo Hippy what a great demo, Really helps me. 10/10.
Wow! Thanks for a lot of great info. Just goes to show that there's more ways of turning than the general mainstream way of turning!
love your vids! Learned a lot just watching 2 of them. I like my bowls to warp as well, gives them a nice look.
Wow. I learned so much really helpful information from this video. Thanks Reed.
This is an excellent video Reed.
Robo Hippy thank you again for an excellant video
This is a great video.Very informative for beginniners and good for review, if further along. Really, Thanks for your time and effort!!!
Hi Thank you for this video it was a great help with some great advice
Regards
Steve UK London
Good advice Reed, thank you.
THANK YOU!! Great video and I needed to see this... Rhanks!!
new to wood turning and this is really good video, I learned a lot and now know how to fix some mistakes I have made, maybe I can save a bowl or two from the wood pile, Thanks.
very detailed information. i love your style bro. keep it up. God bless.
This wood is Pacific Madrone, my favorite because every one on the west coast does Myrtle (California Bay Laurel), but most are not crazy enough to deal with Madrone.
Mike, I had to go to the shop and check.... I use the VicMark chucks exclusively, and I think in this one it is the 120. I use the smaller one for little things. When I got my first chucks, I called Craft Supplies, and wanted a Super Nova. The Tech said, "if you are going to spend the money, you should get a Vicmark'. I haven't used the others out there, but don't think the Vic can be beat. I am thinking about the Easy Chucks for the jaw changing abilities, but haven't gotten 'a-round-2-it' yet... Dove tail jaws do hold better...
Thanks, I learned! I thought it was very good.
Fred
Excellent presentation. Thank You.
Thanks. Just starting out playing with my first turn . Green wood screw is slipping . Have purchased a nova galaxy dvr with super nova 2 chuck. Will try your method looks like the best.
Great video. I have watched a lot of videos on wood turning. I have the Nova chuck with two rods and now i see why it's important to follow your steps. Sharp tools too. Do you have a video on how to sharpen your tools? I don't have any jigs but I have several bench grinders and belt sanders. Very interesting . Thanks.
I have a couple up on sharpening. One where I explain platform sharpening, another with a friend Larry Karlin who uses several methods including a belt sander, and another with the local Woodcraft Store staff. Up on my channel, or go to my web site.
Such great information. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated!
Enjoyed the video, very informative. Thanks for sharing...
Great video - thanks. Do you need to make your recess deeper than 1/8 - 3/16" and larger diameter for fresh green bowl blanks? If so, what dimensions do you recommend?
I seldom make a recess deeper than 1/8 inch. Most important is how wide the shoulder is so when you tighten up you don't blow it apart. My chuck jaws are about 2 5/8 inch, it is metric, but the drilled recess I do to turn the back side is drilled with a 2 5/8 forstner bit. For a 12 inch bowl, I want a good inch of shoulder outside the turned recess. You can get a bit smaller, bit not much. For a 14 inch bowl, I want 1 1/2 inches. I do core pretty much all the bigger bowl blanks and this is plenty to support coring. With dry wood, and if your chuck jaws are pretty new and not chipped from running into them with the McNaughton coring blades or your gouges, you can go to 1/16 inch and it is very secure. For some 6 inch diameter bowls, if I am using the big jaws, I can to to a 1/4 inch shoulder, but I am VERY careful on how I turn, mostly not really hogging out the wood.
Really excellent Vid Reed. Thanks for sharing your secrets. Tons of info I will be using in the future. Thanks mate.
Happy New Year,
Marc
Great info for me as I'm new to turning!
Very informative, thanks, John
Thanks for sharing, I'm a beginner so this is very helpful...
Fantastic explanation...I learned a lot...thank you
Yeah I’m gonna look into it but the thing is I know it could be more expensive but I figure I should start out with the right if I have the opportunity go ahead spend the money and do it right thank you sir appreciate it we have a wonderful evening
Thanks for sharing these great videos. I just bought a lathe and am enthusiastically getting started. I am close to purchasing my first chuck and was going to buy one with dovetail jaws. Am I correct in assuming the forstner bit cutting a straight tenon technique will not work if I have dovetail jaws?
I realize I am 6 months late with this reply. I was also confused with the Forstner bit for Reed's first mortise. His first mortise has to be straight sided but I do believe it provides a good enough grip with his chuck while he turns the mortise on the opposite side with the dove tail circumference. I hope Reed will confirm my reply because I am not even qualified to sweep the shavings out of his shop but I have learned a lot from his excellent instructions.
It does supply plenty of grip. I do drill them 1/4 to 3/8 inch deep, and especially on bigger bowls, I keep the tailstock engaged. Some times I will drill deeper so that the flat of the bowl blank rests up against the flat of the chuck jaws. This is more for when the blank sides are not parallel and I want to work with the top surface being pretty flat, and true up the bottom piece. If you half turn a piece, then remount using the forstner bit recess, they never go back on true. With a hand tooled recess, you can get pretty close.
Reed, videos such as this are among the most helpful on TH-cam. I have watched and rewatched this several times.
Which VicMarc chuck are you using? Recall the model number?
Looking forward to meeting you in October.
Excellent video
Thanks for a good info, take care, Miguel
Very informative thanks very much 👍
Very informative,, thanks for sharing
Thank you thank you thank you I just got so much info in a very short time you are a great teacher thanks
I can't remember where I got mine. I think it was Packard Woodworking. Craft Supplies may have it as well, or you can take a 1/2 inch by 1/4 inch thick square end scraper and grind the profile on it. I have seen them with a dove tail on both sides so you can to a tenon or recess.
Reed, your videos are so helpful, I've watched many of them multiple times. Regarding the initial recess that you cut with a forstner bit. Obviously, the sides of the recess are straight once you've completed your cut. Later in the video you mention that the jaws you use are dovetail jaws. So if I'm understanding correctly, you are using a straight walled recess with dovetail jaws? If so, do you ever run into an issue with the jaws not holding the blank properly?
Great video very informative
Thank you! This will help. Somehow I cut the mortice on my first bowl 1/4" off center. No idea how that happened.
great lesson, very informative!! thanks
Reed, does your chuck have a dovetail profile? If one has a Nova, and you need a dovetail recess, I don't guess you can use a drill bit to make that recess, or do you?
Bill, I just got back from the AAW Symposium in Atlanta... great time. Anyway, I use a big forstner bit to drill the recess in the top of the blank, and hand tool the one for the bottom. I have the Vickmark chucks which have dove tailed jaws. I think Nova does now make dove tail jaws. Their standard jaws are straight with a tiny dove tail type ring at the top. You are supposed to cut a straight sided recess for that jaw, and the ring digs in for the grip. I prefer dove tail jaws for the best grip as they are a wedged joint and stronger than a straight joint.
Dig yr show Going to buy my first chuck
but I’m thinking about getting a kit with all of it do you have any suggestions of what kind do you prefer thank you I appreciate it have a good day
I prefer the Vicmark chucks. I think they are a very slight step above the Oneway and Nova chucks. All are good, and if you go to the forums, you get a wide range of answers about chucks. The knock offs, like Grizzly and Penn State are okay, but not the best. Not sure about the Easy Chuck, which is one of the quick change chucks. It is expensive. Axmister, which is from the UK is also a high quality tool.
Reed, love your videos. Dumb question-- you said you had dovetail jaws, but your topside, initial mortise is cut with a straight sided drill bit?!?
Thanks for the class. Im brand new, when you make the first recess with the forsner bit, do you not have to put a dovetail taper on the insides? how do you do that with a drill bit?
Well, you can't make a tapered recess with a forstner bit. After doing thousands of them, I have not found it necessary. I do drill at least 1/4 inch deep and tighten it up pretty tight, but not as tight as I possibly can as I broke some gears on a chuck once upon a time.... Some times I will drill 1/2 inch or a bit deeper. This allows the face of the bowl to sit on the faceflat of the jaws for a little more support. This comes in handy if you have a blank that is not perfectly parallel top and bottom. It makes the top side of the slab fairly even. The main thing the chuck does is provide drive for the blank. there is no risk of blowing the foot apart like you can do with the recess on the bottom of a bowl. Especially if the tailstock is engaged, the piece can not come off the lathe. If you ever need to retrue up the bottom, and the drilled recess is there, it is very handy, but almost never goes back on exactly. Pretty close, but some times you have to retrue up the outside of the bowl again.
I am assuming you only use dried wood? The two times I have done a recess and let the rough turned bowl blank dry, the recess warped so badly I couldn't figure out how to put it back to round so it would fit on my chuck.
+James Templeton James, actually, I turn green wood almost exclusively. I love the way it cuts. I turn once to final thickness, let them dry and warp, then sand and finish. Yes, the recess will warp to the point that you can not get a secure grip if you are twice turning. I think that is why just about every one I know will use a tenon mount for the twice turned bowls. It is easier to reverse mount on a jam chuck or spigot, use the original center point in the tenon to make sure it is true/centered, then even up the tenon, and then reverse and finish turn the bowl. You can get smaller jaws to expand into the recess when it is warped, but I don't think that mount is secure enough for turning stresses. It is fine for slow speed sanding though. I do show that on my sanding clip.
great video Robo lots of information
Excellent tutorial thank you very much full view like,subd
Yiannis (Athens Greece)
Reed, I am about to turn my first bowl and have been watching lots of videos. Your video in particular was very helpful! I have a couple followup questions. is there a rule of thumb for the length of the screw used to fasten the bowl blank to a faceplate? Any other words of wisdom for a first time bowl turner?? Thanks!
I guess in part it depends on the blank size and the face plate size. So, for a bowl blank in the 6 to 8 inch diameter range, a 4 hole 3 to 4 inch diameter face plate, I would want the screws to stick out 3/4 inch or so. For a 14 inch bowl, I would want a 6 inch face plate with 8 or so holes, and still screws sticking 3/4 inch or so into the wood. You do want the surface to be as flat as possible to prevent any wobbling, and I use deck type screws. Sheet rock screws are not a good idea because they are brittle, and will snap if you have a catch. Do have the tailstock up against the back of the bowl, especially for roughing. I do pull it away for finish cuts on the bottom of the bowl.
I can't fit a chuck on my lathe (it's about 100 years old with oddball threads). Are there any vids on doing it the "old" way?
Well, if you have a face plate, then use a waste block and glue it to the blank and turn from that, which I do cover here. Other than that, depending on your lathe, just about all of the chucks have inserts so they can be mounted on different lathes with different sized headstock spindles. Depending on your thread size and tpi, you may be able to get an insert to fit, or even have a machine shop make them. I think the old Shop Smiths used to have some thing like a 15/16 spindle, and I think there might be an insert that used to be made for it, but no idea if it is still available. Craft Supplies used to carry a variety of them. You may be able to ask on some of the forums...
When drilling a recess for initial shaping do you need a dovetail? If so how do you put one in??
No dove tail on the recess. My tooled recess is 1/8 to 3/16 inch deep. The drilled recess is some times 1/2 inch deep so the blank actually sits on the chuck jaw face. With all of the extra wood around it, diameter wise, even I can't torque it tight enough to break that. I don't use the tailstock on bowls up to 10 or so inches. Anything over 12 inch diameter I do use the tailstock. Never had one fall off in thousands of bowl turnings.
Reed, used some of your techniques last evening on my first ever bowl and it’s going great. I mounted the blank to do the outside with a recess and it held very securely. I will be finishing the outside this evening and starting on the inside using a recess on the bottom of the bowl. Your material is very informative and practically helpful. Thanks again.
great information!!!
You mentioned that you were working with green wood! I have some elm that is green and wet,as I cut the bowl blanks I put them into the microwave for 2 min. at a time and then repeat said time.Some work well some don"t! (they crack)Can you give some of your toughs please!
Two minutes might be a bit long, more so as the blanks get more dry. I wouldn't go over a minute at a time. It might depend some on how thick the blanks are as well. I would think thicker ones would be more prone to splitting than thin, like 1/4 inch ones would.
You. Explains things things better
Reed, This is a great video...learned much. Have a question on use of face plates. Somewhere I seemed to have seen where it is unwise to use a face plate on end grain similar to avoiding a mortise on end grain. Can you comment?
Well, if you watch any of Lyle Jamieson's videos, he used lag bolts with his face plates to do all of his hollow forms. Generally though straight screws into end grain tend to work loose like nails into end grain. With the nails, you have to toe nail, or go in at an angle, then they hold better. I think Lyle uses a bigger screw/bolt, with a coarse thread.
robohippy Thanks Reed. Will check his videos.
very good for beginners !
how do you get both surfaces flat when mortising both sides?
On the recess you made with your drill press it did not appear that you had any angle for a dovetail. Did you do anything to change the angle off camera? Great video!
No shaping at all. I do make it deeper, and often deep enough so that the face of the chuck rests against the wood. This does provide plenty of support. On bowls in the 12 inch diameter range, I will use the tailstock for support. This does provide plenty of drive for the wood, and I have never had it spin out or dismount. I do crank on the chuck key a bit more than I do when the bowl is reversed.
robohippy thanks for the quick response. One more question. I have a Oneway chuck which doesn't use a dovetail. Do you find that dovetail chucks like a Nova hold better with a recess? I have had a few bowls make a run for the border and am looking for ways to improve the hold. Your video taught me some good tricks but i still wonder if a dovetail chuck would be better for me.
You happened to catch me at the computer... I do prefer the dove tail jaws. As one turner said, 'you have a locking wedge joint'. this does hold better than a straight joint, kind of like dove tail vs finger joint in furniture work. I use the Vicmark chucks, in part because they are really heavy duty. Nova has recently, last 5 years or so, started making dove tail jaws for their chucks, probably for the above reason. Can't remember if Oneway offers dove tail jaws or not.
robohippy thanks very much!!!