Think you so much! Best instructor I have ever watched. Can't think you enough for this video. Just getting into bowl turning. You're instructions are priceless for me. Best wishes from Ohio. WALTER
I had a professional camera man do it.... I have enough trouble just working in the shop, and know better than trying that part.... Just shot a new video on Monday! More coming.
I have learned more about turning in just a few of Reed''s videos than I have watching other Pro's videos. I am on a quest to watch all of Reed's videos. Great Stuff!!
Thank you for the videos! You do a great job of explaining the mechanics of how the tool should be used. You have made my turning a lot easier and more enjoyable.
excellent presentation. he's never taken on a task he can't do as long as I've known him. and he's as mellow in real life as in his videos. congrats R Hippy on 10 subscribers
Some just have a knack for explaining thinks in an easy to understand way....to the point and WHAT you need to know with your bevels and the angle to hold them....well done.
Man I appreciate your instructive style in this video brother, so many guys just go at it with no information on how they are presenting the tool to the piece--I've watched a bunch of your stuff lately since discovering you, and I give you 5 out of 5 stars--good focused camera works among the positives--I'd like for you to share with Captain Eddie Castelen what camera('s) you have and how you use em.
You, sir, have just gained a new subscriber! I've got my own channel but I just started turning and was having some newbie problems. I've already learned so much watching you. Thank you!
As a machinist, I grind a large drill with a rounded end that has a morse taper number 2 shank. That way I can hog out the center to a known depth and then use that depth as a gage to guide the rest of my cuts. I leave about a 1/16th of an inch to do the rest with the gouge.
I Started hollowing the inside of a bowl with a gouge, Then i remembered the video on scrapers. For just hogging out the inside a good scraper does a good job, just way faster. For finish cuts/scrapes on the inside a scraper does just as good as a gouge if you use ultra-light pressure. Thanks Reed Rick
***** Rick, with some woods, like madrone, I can get a sandable finish cut with scrapers, or with end grain turnings. With softer woods, the scrapers leave a coarser finish. Same with negative rake scrapers. A shear scrape will leave a cleaner surface than a flat scrape, and is my finish cut most of the time. A bevel rubbing cut with gouge generally leaves the cleanest surface for me, but I still like to finish that off with a shear scrape to remove any little tool marks/bumps.
Now THAT was a good video! Thanks Reed.... Great camera work and explanations with clarity. I'm just learning and this video really cleared up a lot of questions for me. Best regards, Charlie
Great video mate, really useful. I'm at that stage of turning where I feel I'm doing some good work but I have bad habits and do everything the hard way... Haha.
This is a very helpful video, especially the bit where you show how to do the edge without getting a catch and disposing of the pesky centre dots! Thanks for posting I am a newbie turner, can I ask, is it normal for the bowl gouge to get hot? I have been turning semi wet oak and dry walnut, my bowl gouge (3/8") was very sharp done on a tormek stone with a sharpening guide Thanks, Jonathan
Thanks so much for the videos. I have been watching several and learning a great deal. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and wisdom. I am new to turning and was wondering how many and what size gouges do you recommend. I have a ⅜" swept back grind bowl gouge and a ⅜" spindle gouge. What others would you recommend?
+Scott Godfrey Scott, well one reason they call it the Vortex is because there is no end to the toys you can buy to go with the hobby. For turning smaller bowls, a 3/8 inch gouge is fine. I prefer heavier tools, and when using gouges, most of the time it is a 5/8 inch gouge. Nose profiles can vary a lot depending on what you want to turn. Most bowl turners will have at least one specialized bottom of bowl gouge, which generally has a bevel angle of 70 degrees or so, and most of the heel of the bevel ground off. This makes it perfect for going through the transition and across the bottom of a bowl where a 45 degree bevel can do the same cut unless the bowl is very shallow. The 3/8 spindle is excellent for doing beads on bowls, or beads and coves on spindles.
I watched your recess and tendon video. Thank you for not complicating it. I was curious though. You use forsner bit to start than a dovetail before you flip. Hard to see but the tool you used was a dovetail? Did you create and angle as your cut in the outer recess? Thanks again. Love your Robust lathe too. That looks serious!
I know I talk about that dove tail tool some where, but can't remember which video it was. It came, maybe from Craft Supplies, but there are others out there. the dove tail grind matched the jaws on my Vicmark chucks perfectly. Now days, I use a spindle detail gouge to rough out the recess, 35 degree bevel, and then a NRS (negative rake scraper) to clean it up. I am guessing years of doing it lets me to it by eye now rather than using the specialized tool. Oh, I have a left sided NRS for that cut. I will be having a NRS video coming out some time this year. Just got into a new house and shop. The forstner bit recess is drilled deeper than the tooled one on the bottom, and I do crank it down tight. It does not need tapered sides since it is mostly to drive the blank, and accuracy isn't really as important as with the recess on the bottom. I have added a Vicmark 240 to my 'toys'. It is the Vic that has a pivoting headstock. Love it.
Reed...Great Video. It looks like your rest is right at the mid-line, is that correct? Do you always turn with your gouges just above mid-line and do you keep your scrapers somewhat lower? thanks...
John Grace John, I generally keep the tool rest some where near center height. I am not really fussy about having it exactly set to height. Most of the time I am also cutting near center height as well. It is important with scrapers, when doing scraping cuts, to always have the handle high, and the cutting edge angled down. With gouges, I am cutting at center height as well. On the outside of the bowl, mostly I am at or slightly below center height. The exception is when doing shear scraping. On the inside of the bowl, I am usually cutting slightly above center.
I did purchase it ready made from Doug Thompson. I actually dedicated one video to it because many don't know how to use it. It can be used as a scraper, but it doesn't work well, mostly due to the round bottom, so if you are cutting more on one side or the other, it wants to tip over.
I do have one video dedicated to it. A Doug Thompson tool. I don't think it makes a good scraper, though I grind it at the same angle I do my standard scrapers, which is 70 degrees. The rounded bottom makes it want to tip if you are cutting only with one side or the other. Flat bottoms work better for standard scrapers.
Stan, I quit making them because it just took up too much of my play time. Still trying to find some one who wants to make them. Several nibbles, but haven't hooked anyone yet.
+Scott Godfrey The two best choices are Doug Thompson tools, and D Way tools. You are buying from the guys who actually make the tools. I prefer a more open flute rather than a V flute because most of the time I am holding my tools level and doing the finish cuts with the nose. This advantage goes to the Thompson U flutes. For the swept back grinds, which I almost never use, the Thompson V and D Way work great. Doug also makes a parabolic flute for Lyle Jamieson that Lyle sells direct. Many prefer the parabolic shaped flute. I do have links on my web site for both, and if I don't have a link up for Lyle, I will get one up shortly.
muito bom seu serviços amigo tenho-o um torno também mais preciso de uns fomoes. melhores para tornia mande um ai pra mim rua venicios de morais 427 ipanema vitoria da comquista bahia cep 45055115 abraço Ademario reis
Think you so much! Best instructor I have ever watched. Can't think you enough for this video. Just getting into bowl turning. You're instructions are priceless for me. Best wishes from Ohio. WALTER
One of the best videos I have seen so far on turning. Thankyou
Some of the best camera angles and views Ive seen on TH-cam. Great video, thanks for sharing
I had a professional camera man do it.... I have enough trouble just working in the shop, and know better than trying that part.... Just shot a new video on Monday! More coming.
I have learned more about turning in just a few of Reed''s videos than I have watching other Pro's videos. I am on a quest to watch all of Reed's videos. Great Stuff!!
Excellent video as always, thats a beautiful chunk of wood
Excellent video Reed, great turning lesson.
Thank you for the videos! You do a great job of explaining the mechanics of how the tool should be used. You have made my turning a lot easier and more enjoyable.
Lovely. Much appreciated: you have a gift for explaining the technical aspects of the process.
Dude, helpful tutorial. Glad I found this.
Thank you. I appreciate you sharing.
excellent presentation. he's never taken on a task he can't do as long as I've known him. and he's as mellow in real life as in his videos. congrats R Hippy on 10 subscribers
Reed, clear, specific guidance always thoughtfully delivered. Thanks very much, Scott
Love the way you explain all your cuts. Thx for sharing.
Some just have a knack for explaining thinks in an easy to understand way....to the point and WHAT you need to know with your bevels and the angle to hold them....well done.
Man I appreciate your instructive style in this video brother, so many guys just go at it with no information on how they are presenting the tool to the piece--I've watched a bunch of your stuff lately since discovering you, and I give you 5 out of 5 stars--good focused camera works among the positives--I'd like for you to share with Captain Eddie Castelen what camera('s) you have and how you use em.
Another Masterclass Reed, thank you
Cheers
Mike
Excellent tutorial 👍
Very helpful. Thanks for posting these. I hope you continue.
Your videos are very underrated. Looking forward to your future on TH-cam. Thanks for your work thus far.
Thanks for all your video work. It's a great help for all of us new to turning.
I agree with the other comments on here. A very good informative video . And well shot . Thanks
Hi Reed! Thank you so much for sharing! You have a great series of tutorials here! Cheers mate! Daniel
You, sir, have just gained a new subscriber! I've got my own channel but I just started turning and was having some newbie problems. I've already learned so much watching you. Thank you!
Thank You, for another great video!!!
As a machinist, I grind a large drill with a rounded end that has a morse taper number 2 shank. That way I can hog out the center to a known depth and then use that depth as a gage to guide the rest of my cuts. I leave about a 1/16th of an inch to do the rest with the gouge.
Very good video, very thorough explanations. Thank you for the time and effort you put into sharing your knowledge and skills with us.
I Started hollowing the inside of a bowl with a gouge, Then i remembered the video on scrapers. For just hogging out the inside a good scraper does a good job, just way faster. For finish cuts/scrapes on the inside a scraper does just as good as a gouge if you use ultra-light pressure.
Thanks Reed
Rick
***** Rick, with some woods, like madrone, I can get a sandable finish cut with scrapers, or with end grain turnings. With softer woods, the scrapers leave a coarser finish. Same with negative rake scrapers. A shear scrape will leave a cleaner surface than a flat scrape, and is my finish cut most of the time. A bevel rubbing cut with gouge generally leaves the cleanest surface for me, but I still like to finish that off with a shear scrape to remove any little tool marks/bumps.
Now THAT was a good video! Thanks Reed.... Great camera work and explanations with clarity. I'm just learning and this video really cleared up a lot of questions for me. Best regards, Charlie
Close up shots are very helpful. Nice piece of wood too.
Thanks for great explanations regarding tool handling
Excellent lesson. Thanks for sharing.
another great videos..thanks
Lessons learnt. Thank you....
Great video mate, really useful. I'm at that stage of turning where I feel I'm doing some good work but I have bad habits and do everything the hard way... Haha.
Fine job and very well explained sir thanks..
This is a very helpful video, especially the bit where you show how to do the edge without getting a catch and disposing of the pesky centre dots! Thanks for posting
I am a newbie turner, can I ask, is it normal for the bowl gouge to get hot? I have been turning semi wet oak and dry walnut, my bowl gouge (3/8") was very sharp done on a tormek stone with a sharpening guide
Thanks, Jonathan
6:17 bowl blows up, no big deal 😆
I’m a sponge watching your videos.
Thanks so much for the videos. I have been watching several and learning a great deal. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and wisdom.
I am new to turning and was wondering how many and what size gouges do you recommend. I have a ⅜" swept back grind bowl gouge and a ⅜" spindle gouge. What others would you recommend?
+Scott Godfrey Scott, well one reason they call it the Vortex is because there is no end to the toys you can buy to go with the hobby. For turning smaller bowls, a 3/8 inch gouge is fine. I prefer heavier tools, and when using gouges, most of the time it is a 5/8 inch gouge. Nose profiles can vary a lot depending on what you want to turn. Most bowl turners will have at least one specialized bottom of bowl gouge, which generally has a bevel angle of 70 degrees or so, and most of the heel of the bevel ground off. This makes it perfect for going through the transition and across the bottom of a bowl where a 45 degree bevel can do the same cut unless the bowl is very shallow. The 3/8 spindle is excellent for doing beads on bowls, or beads and coves on spindles.
This is a more efficient way of using a bowl gouge roughing inside of a bowl. Both wings are being used, less trips to grinder.
I watched your recess and tendon video. Thank you for not complicating it. I was curious though. You use forsner bit to start than a dovetail before you flip. Hard to see but the tool you used was a dovetail? Did you create and angle as your cut in the outer recess? Thanks again. Love your Robust lathe too. That looks serious!
I know I talk about that dove tail tool some where, but can't remember which video it was. It came, maybe from Craft Supplies, but there are others out there. the dove tail grind matched the jaws on my Vicmark chucks perfectly. Now days, I use a spindle detail gouge to rough out the recess, 35 degree bevel, and then a NRS (negative rake scraper) to clean it up. I am guessing years of doing it lets me to it by eye now rather than using the specialized tool. Oh, I have a left sided NRS for that cut. I will be having a NRS video coming out some time this year. Just got into a new house and shop. The forstner bit recess is drilled deeper than the tooled one on the bottom, and I do crank it down tight. It does not need tapered sides since it is mostly to drive the blank, and accuracy isn't really as important as with the recess on the bottom.
I have added a Vicmark 240 to my 'toys'. It is the Vic that has a pivoting headstock. Love it.
👍
Reed...Great Video. It looks like your rest is right at the mid-line, is that correct? Do you always turn with your gouges just above mid-line and do you keep your scrapers somewhat lower? thanks...
John Grace John, I generally keep the tool rest some where near center height. I am not really fussy about having it exactly set to height. Most of the time I am also cutting near center height as well. It is important with scrapers, when doing scraping cuts, to always have the handle high, and the cutting edge angled down. With gouges, I am cutting at center height as well. On the outside of the bowl, mostly I am at or slightly below center height. The exception is when doing shear scraping. On the inside of the bowl, I am usually cutting slightly above center.
Fluteless gouge? This is different from a scraper I’m guessing. Did you make this tool or buy it ready made?
I did purchase it ready made from Doug Thompson. I actually dedicated one video to it because many don't know how to use it. It can be used as a scraper, but it doesn't work well, mostly due to the round bottom, so if you are cutting more on one side or the other, it wants to tip over.
Never heard of a fluteless gouge. Is it like a scraper?
I do have one video dedicated to it. A Doug Thompson tool. I don't think it makes a good scraper, though I grind it at the same angle I do my standard scrapers, which is 70 degrees. The rounded bottom makes it want to tip if you are cutting only with one side or the other. Flat bottoms work better for standard scrapers.
What is a flutless gouge and where do you get one?
I do have a separate video on them. It is a tool made by Doug Thompson.
How do l get a robot rest for grinder
Stan, I quit making them because it just took up too much of my play time. Still trying to find some one who wants to make them. Several nibbles, but haven't hooked anyone yet.
Do you have a recommended tool manufacturer?
+Scott Godfrey The two best choices are Doug Thompson tools, and D Way tools. You are buying from the guys who actually make the tools. I prefer a more open flute rather than a V flute because most of the time I am holding my tools level and doing the finish cuts with the nose. This advantage goes to the Thompson U flutes. For the swept back grinds, which I almost never use, the Thompson V and D Way work great. Doug also makes a parabolic flute for Lyle Jamieson that Lyle sells direct. Many prefer the parabolic shaped flute. I do have links on my web site for both, and if I don't have a link up for Lyle, I will get one up shortly.
Who sharpened that gouge for you ?
Strange question... I sharpen all of my tools. Most of the time, 180 grit CBN wheel, and straight to the wood.
Yes but it is cutting really well. Keep up the work you will learn one day.
11:49 and then he designed and made his own tool rests
Guess i got lucky this, this wood was old dead still standing choke cherry.
muito bom seu serviços amigo tenho-o um torno também mais preciso de uns fomoes. melhores para tornia mande um ai pra mim rua venicios de morais 427 ipanema vitoria da comquista bahia cep 45055115 abraço Ademario reis