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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- This brand new for 2017 Platform Tool Sharpening Video has many updated techniques from any of Robo's previous sharpening videos. Please take a look and feel free to leave your comments or questions below. As always, thank you for subscribing to my page.
www.robohippy.net
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
Robo Hippy...I (and probably WE) miss you!!
There are 15,000+ views and only 339 likes. I don't understand. There are so many good tricks/ideas/opinions in here!
For this one, I would guess it has more to do with platform sharpening is not for every one. You have to do a fair amount of turning to be able to 'feel' what is needed for platform sharpening. I had no problem figuring it out.
An excellent tutorial on hand sharpening with just the platform Reed. Full of superb tips and techniques.
This will now be my go to video, as I try...and try again...to become proficient at free hand sharpening. Thank you.
Take care
Mike
This is THE BEST info I have found for sharpening my tools....THANKS!!
Thank you for the video. You answered so many questions I have had. Learning alot from your channel!!!
Great video, Reed, with some excellent tips for beginners and experienced turners. Thanks for sharing.
Very well done, but I kept wanting to pause the video and give you a call! This generated a number of questions. I may try to talk you into coming up to Portland and giving a sharpening class to our club, NW Woodturners. Keep up the good work on the videos.
well just watched your video. bought your platform at the convention center at the thing . didnt watch video lol bought a new chisel lol it was about time for a new one but love that thing all i have to do is get it to the 6-1/2 center part then will be good was close off a little bit . time to buy the diamond wheel thanks for the great product so much better than the wolverine way no more block of wood . SO IF YOU DONT HAVE ONE OF THESE I RECOMMEND YOU BUY ONE YOU WILL LOVE IT .
reed I have the wolverine system and honestly I prefer your platform free handed sharpening to anything else,,one of my best investments buying it from you,,take care my friend,,
awe thanks again turn the the flute around to get back to where it should be . manufactures love me .
Sure have missed your videos as of late, this,as all, is another great one
The "black line" tip is awesome - gonna be doing that. Otherwise a great video!
Thank you so much you are my sensay master
Best sharpening instruction I’ve seen. Where do you get the hats? Looks like a great shop hat
I get them from The Hat People: www.hatpeople.com/ Not cheap, but very sturdy. I do a trade or three per year with them to keep in hats.
Okay, this is a very basic question. Everywhere I read, I discover different angles for scraping both regular and negative rake scrapers. What do you use on your various scrapers and what is the best way you have discovered for accurately repeating the setting as wheels wear down, etc.
Dan, I will do a video on negative rake scrapers/NRS some time after the first of the year. I am still figuring them out. angles range from 25/25 to 80/25, and just about every where in between. Most of the time I prefer to shear scrape, except on end grain work where the NRS excels. For my standard scrapers, I use a 70 degree bevel. That is how they came, and I never changed beyond that. As for adjusting for wheel wear, no problem if you have CBN wheels as they don't wear down at all. Expensive, but like variable speed, once you have them, you never want to go back to standard wheels. For the standard wheels, the Oneway compatible robo rest is positioned by the I/8 inch gap, which I cover on my 'Setting up and using the robo rest'. I do have an extended article on CBN Wheels on my web site that covers most questions, but I do need to do a part 2...There is a link on the video up above.
Sharpening begins at 05:00 👍
saw in one of your videos where you talked about signing your work. I'm going today to get the pen you used. My question is, When do you sign the wood? Is it before sanding sealer, after, before finish, or after? Always wondered.
I use walnut oil for a finish. since I use a recess for my mount, and leave it, that is where I sign. I do like to sign before I sand to give the ink plenty of time to dry. The sharpie type pens would smear even if I left them over night.
you mentiond making bowls on a faceplate without reversing it. can you do a demo on that or do you already have a video?
Oh, I don't have the link here, but I have one up on Mounting things on the lathe. The mounting from the bottom is not used much any more as chucks pretty much make that job a lot easier. If it is used, the most common method is to use a waste block glued to the bottom and screw into that rather than into your bowl blank so you don't have screw holes in the bottom of your bowl blank. If you use heavy craft paper or paper grocery bag material glued in between the waste block and bowl blank, then it splits off fairly easily with a chisel and a tap or two. That method is older than dirt...
i inherited an old grinder & its missing its rests ...these look like theyd be a great fit... could anybody tell me where to purchase these? thank u
I have quit making them, mostly because it took up too much of my play time to run a business. I did give all the parts, pieces, and jigs to some one else, but he is taking his time. Not sure when they will be out. The bowl rests, possibly by the AAW Symposium this year. I can't say who until he has the first ones out.
@@robohippy thank u sir
Stuart Batty prefers to have a burr and you take it off your tools do you leave a burr on sometimes?....
I do hone my skews, but nothing else. Maybe on the rare occasion where I have some really difficult wood and the 600 grit CBN wheel doesn't leave a clean enough edge, then I may hone the gouges. Some times a standard scraper is honed for cleaner cuts in more dense woods, but I generally will use a shear scrape on bowls or a NRS (negative rake scraper) on end grain. My NRS video will be out next year some time...
Have any good advice i have been turning again and i struggle getting rid of ripples on my small bowls on the inside and inside bottom... i tend to hop for one tool too another to try :-( too get rid of them
Some days your tools work better than others.... So, most of the time, your steering wheel is loose. This is partly from rubbing the bevel too hard. Partly from pushing into the grain too hard, which is worst going across the bottom of the bowl where you are pretty much head butting the grain (going against it) twice each revolution. Not as bad when going down the walls, when you are going through the grain rather than into it. So, if it is too bad, you cheat... You will see a lot of turners using a round nose scraper to sweep across the bottom and into the transition. A negative rake scraper also does a good job with this. They don't do as well going up the side of the wall because scrapers tend to pull when in side grain, but do better sweeping across the bottom. For the walls I prefer a very light shear scrape. Shear scraping will probably be my next video. followed by negative rake scrapers... The scrapers to tend to work better on harder woods, and worst on softer woods.
One question, you made note of the fact you no longer use the swept back bowl gouge any longer, but never said why or what type grind you've replaced it with.So I wondering.
Hmm, I may have to do one on that. Mostly the swept back gouge is good for dropped handle cutting where you can put the whole wing into the wood for fast stock removal. I have found that scrapers are much better for that job because you just pivot back and forth and the cutting edge never comes up off the wood. The long wings are good for shear scraping as well. I do all of my shear scraping with a variety of scrapers, which is another video I will be doing shortly. At present I am finding a hand burnished burr cuts better than a gouge wing. For finish cuts, I do use gouges. My preference is a 45/45 on the outside, and a 45/45 on the inside down to the transition, then a BOB tool for the transition and across the bottom. A 60 degree nose down the sides just doesn't cut as nicely as a 45/45. Stuart Batty says that the 60 degree bevel, common on most swept back grinds takes more effort to push through the wood. I think I agree with him. I can do finish cuts from rim to base with a 60 degree bevel, but I just don't like the feel of it. I do prefer a more open flute because I tend to hold my tools level rather than with the dropped handle, and the more open flute leaves a bigger sweet spot for cutting.
What speed do you use for the various wheels?
Same speeds on all wheels. All of my grinders are slow speed, which means around 1700 rpm. I do have a Tormek, and I do have diamond wheels for it. It runs very slow, like over 60 rpm. Some people do use high speed grinders, which I think are in the 3200 or 3700 rpm range. For the old carbon steel tools, this will cause problems with the tempering of the cutting tools. For any true M2 high speed steel, you can not get them hot enough on a grinder for them to lose their tempering.
Antone turning with a scraper needs to take lessons from someone who turns with a gouges and round nosed skew. A scraper, by definition scrapes and tears. Gouges, skews and round nosed skews CUT. The difference between wood butchery and craftsman ship.
Well, not true, but then I use scrapers more and differently than just about any one out there. The concept that scrapers do not cut is not correct. If I was just scraping and not cutting, then how can I get nice long ribbons of wood coming off of my bowls? Scrapers can leave a glass smooth surface on end grain turning like boxes. Depending on the wood, with harder woods like sugar maple, a honed and de burred scraper can leave a 220 grit surface. Take a look at my 'Scary Scrapers' video. It isn't the tool you use, it is how you use it.