Great review, thanks. I'm in Michigan as well and was in the same conundrum you were about compressors, this one in particular. I ordered it regardless of the very few negative comments opposed to the number of great reviews. As you stated, the wiring requirements and hookups could have been the failures. I too wasn't sure about the mounting until I watch your video. My IR 80 arrives March 27, 2019 and am more confident now thanks to you.
Good info. Was going back and forth between buying a smaller unit just to get by or a large unit like this, and installation requirements + reliability were concerns. I appreciate the help!
I have the same machine and it has been a great compressor. I did put a stainless steel 90 degree elbow and stainless pipe on the bottom with a stainless steel ball valve to drain it easier.
I have the IR 80 5hp, 2-Stage and I wired mine up using 6/2 w/ ground. That being said there are many factors I had to face and take into account like the length of the run for my wire, what the rating was of the subpanel and what the actual rating was in the house from the main panel. I use ALOT of air for way to many things, lol! I also have mine completely separated in 2 places with mine being hardwired. Tank to 30amp service disconnect with time delayed fuses and then a hefty run to the subpanel where it's on a 30amp breaker.
HEY BRO THANKS FOR TAKE YOU TIME ABOUT THIS VIDEOS,. I'M LIKE IT,.BUT I HAVE A QUESTION DO YOU KNOW WHAT IS THE BLACK CAP BETWEEN THE AIR COMPRESSOR AND THE GRILL PROTECTOR, AND SOMETHING ELSE ON TOP OF THE AIR COMPRESSOR THERE IS A SQUARE PLUG UNDER THE AIR FILTER COULD YOU TELL ME WHAT IS THAT FOR TOO ???? PLEASE BRO
I used to have this one...went through to many pressure switches..due to no magnetic starter..anything over 2 hp.or 20amps running you should get a magnetic starter..installed..I learned from my experience. I finally sold mine ..with a starter. On it..the guy told me he has no issues. That was over a yr. Now.. I went for big.. bought a industrial unit ..Saylor-beall.. it came with a starter on it..with a automatic tank drain...3000 grand...American built..in st.johns Michigan...u-tube Saylor-beall..
I just got mine. I bolted it to the floor with rubber pads. It still vibrates through the house. I thought I was doing the right thing not leaving it on a pallet. What else can I use? Question 2: you can adjust how much pressure is actually stored with a screw? Mine actually fills up to 165 and then loses a few over night. I can make it go to 175 like it’s supposed too? The 3rd question, what are you using for regulator? IR does not have one in track or supply that can accept 175 inlet pressure. The IR ones there only accepted 140. I bought a Husky 3/8 one that can take 200 inlet. I really wanted a 1/2 one to make to this tank. But I need at least 175 inlet and at least 160 outlet if possible.
I just bought one of these. I have a finished closet in my shop I'd like to run it in. The instructions say "provide 1,000 cubic feet of fresh air per minute". I can calculate cubic feet in my shop, but what does "cubic feet per minute mean? I am hoping to run it in a shop that is about 500 square feet with 8 foot ceilings. I want to make sure it is safe to work next to it (carbon monoxide label on front) and am not sure how much ventilation I need if I do keep it in the closet.
Not 100% sure, I didn't read that much into it tbh.. I've had this in two home style garages now right about 480 square feet and never had an issue, still running to this day.. However I've never ran it In a closet alway just been in the open.. My father was a full time GM tech back in the 2000s and he also owned his own shop, he had 2 60 gallon compressors in parrallel in what I would call an outhouse that lived outside with the top vent like a standard outhouse and 2 standard floor heating vent in the side, under shop use they lasted many years.. I'd probably add bigger return air style vents maybe some 24x24s? However id suggest doing your own research as I have little no experience with that other than what my father did and he wasn't running this IR, would hate to see you burn up your compressor, maybe look up some build video on ppl doing enclosure for compressors. Thanks for watching sorry couldn't be more help on this one.
Its been awhile i contacted IR about it i think it was like 10 or 15 mins run with the value open, but i would check with them if you are going to get it, i'm no 100% sure on that.
I have a customer who put one of these in around Oct 2014 and they called and said that the oil was almost all gone, do these things burn oil? it is not leaking oil. their machine runs probably 4-5 hrs a day. They said there is not an oil gauge or site glass to check it.
+Sean Metz I have the same exact one in this video, an 80 gallon 5hp 2 stage that ive had for 16 months now from tractor supply $1176.99 with tax here in central indiana. I dont use it heavily but i have at times and it dont leak or use any oil, so far its been great
@@akbychoice We recently bought one for a lamination process and it came with oil in it. They said we could not lay it down when in transit or it would void the warranty.
I see this video is now more than 5 years old. If you are still on youtube, are you still happy with it? Where were the parts made? When I looked at one recently at TSC, the compressor was made in India and the motor in China. It is assembled in Kentucky, but the parts all appear to be foreign. Was that the case back when you bought yours?
I recently been looking at a Ingersoll 60 gal 5hp SS4L5 and seen the same..Mexican motor and Indian pump. Also it’s max is 135psi?? It has better CFM than the Dewalt but the Dewalt has a max of 155psi. Dewalt is 50% duty cycle and ingersoll is 100%. I want the ingersoll but been seeing bad reviews and even the store rep said they come back quite a bit with problems (Tank leaking and not filling up, and burnt motors). I grabbed a Dewalt but haven’t hooked it up yet..Really wish ingersoll had quality parts. And saying it’s “built in USA 🇺🇸 “ is BS. So what they bolted on a pump and motor?? Now it’s “Built is the US”??? I figure mine as well buy the cheap Dewalt in the end.
David Castillo Motors generally run hot when they are running at low voltage. I would check the voltage at the compressor while it is running. If your wire size is too small, you may be getting voltage drop at the motor or it may even be that you have low voltage at your panel. Obviously, a defective motor is always a possibility as well since IR uses foreign motors for all of their low-end compressors now.
@@LTVoyager it calls for 12ga but I put 6ga and for 60 watt breaker and I put 100 watt because I wanted to make sure that everything I had was big enough but it's still getting hot.
David Castillo The specs from the Tractor Supply site say this can pull 21.5 amps. This is far too much for 12 gauge wire so I am not sure where you see that it “calls for” that. 10 gauge would be a minimum as it can handle 30 amps as compared to 20 for 12 gauge. Generally, you don’t want to draw a continuous current of more than 80% of the breaker rating so for 12 gauge wire that is 16 amps and for 10 gauge that is 24 amps. If you used 6 gauge wire, then you should have plenty of margin. I assume you mean 60 amp breaker rather than 60 watts and that is also more than enough although it sounds like you used a 100 amp breaker which is gross overkill. One question, are you sure you have this wired on a 230 V circuit and not 115 V? The motor probably would not run on 115 volts, but if it did, it would likely run very hot. Did you wire this yourself or hire an electrician?
@@LTVoyager yes sir I meant amps, I had a licensed electrician wire it for me, I did speak to tractor supply and they said they think I need to replace the motor, which is about $400
David Castillo I assume the electrician confirmed the voltage, but not everyone does so it still is worth doing that even if you replace the motor. If you have an electrical issue such as a floating neutral or such, not only can that be dangerous, but it can certainly ruin motors. I would ask the electrician to come back and verify correct voltage at the breaker panel and then also at the motor itself before you put on a new motor.
How many hours and years have you owned this for? Most compressors don't start falling apart right after you buy them, its with use. If you are using this 20 hours a week that is pretty light use and you shouldn't be seeing any issues. Bad motors are the biggest complaint with the 5hp units and the motors are seriously expensive.
I don’t think Quincy is any better made than IR. They both use foreign components. You need to step up to something like Jenny if you want a truly great piece of equipment, but you will pay twice as much. All of the sub $1,500 compressors are made in China or India or Southeast Asia and are all pretty low on the quality totem pole.
I find one sketchy thing and a couple puzzling things. I find it sketchy that IR does not incorporate a magnetic starter for a 5hp motor. Based upon my compressor's 5hp motor, inrush current at startup is 49amps (determined via max hold with Fluke clamp meter so I trust my measurement). I do wish you continued good operation with the incorporated pressure switch on your unit. Puzzling is the (apparent) fact IR does not specify the required breaker and leaves it to the installer or end user to figure it out. Another puzzle is the mounting requirement. As an example, I have a Quincy model QP5. It is a vertical 5hp 80 gallon unit. Its installation manual states a 60amp breaker is required with appropriate guage wire to the magnetic starter. It also specifically states vibration pads are not to be used with a vertical unit; only with horizontal units. Lastly the unit must be bolted to the concrete floor. I realize these are different manufacturers but the units are functionality *very* similar to one another. The disparities intrigue me.
I have a Quincy QT-54 2 stage 5hp compressor. It did not come with a magnetic starter so I bought one and installed one. To hit a price point, some compressor come without a magnetic starter. The customer will usually have problems with those cheap factory pressure switches going out and have to replace them. As for mounting, I didn't bolt mine down to the floor. I made some feet out of hockey pucks and it just sits on the concrete floor in the corner of the shop. It doesn't ever move around. The hockey pucks are very hard rubber and gives a solid mount with some isolation properties. I used a 50 amp breaker for the high current inrush on startup and I used 10/2 wire. I also installed an hour meter so I can keep up with oil changes.
That *is* good advice if one can afford it and if one wants a multi generation unit to pass down to offspring. [EDIT: that said, I did buy a Quincy QP5]
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Thanks for sharing this. You mentioned some stuff I wasn't considering when spec'ing for my shop.
Thanks for the video. I’ve been trying to figure out if 10/2 is big enough and you ended my worry.
Thanks for sharing your experience on key points a person oughta know!
Thanks for the review. I'm going through the selection process for a new compressor and this helps.
awesome glad i could help, good luck on the seach!
Great review, thanks. I'm in Michigan as well and was in the same conundrum you were about compressors, this one in particular. I ordered it regardless of the very few negative comments opposed to the number of great reviews. As you stated, the wiring requirements and hookups could have been the failures. I too wasn't sure about the mounting until I watch your video. My IR 80 arrives March 27, 2019 and am more confident now thanks to you.
Good to hear this helped you out! 5 years old still going strong!
Good info. Was going back and forth between buying a smaller unit just to get by or a large unit like this, and installation requirements + reliability were concerns. I appreciate the help!
I have the same machine and it has been a great compressor. I did put a stainless steel 90 degree elbow and stainless pipe on the bottom with a stainless steel ball valve to drain it easier.
I have the IR 80 5hp, 2-Stage and I wired mine up using 6/2 w/ ground. That being said there are many factors I had to face and take into account like the length of the run for my wire, what the rating was of the subpanel and what the actual rating was in the house from the main panel. I use ALOT of air for way to many things, lol! I also have mine completely separated in 2 places with mine being hardwired. Tank to 30amp service disconnect with time delayed fuses and then a hefty run to the subpanel where it's on a 30amp breaker.
Mine is a constant pain... I’m going up a size maybe, but def shopping with other brands
Have you attempted to change the psi output yet and if so, how?
HEY BRO THANKS FOR TAKE YOU TIME ABOUT THIS VIDEOS,. I'M LIKE IT,.BUT I HAVE A QUESTION DO YOU KNOW WHAT IS THE BLACK CAP BETWEEN THE AIR COMPRESSOR AND THE GRILL PROTECTOR, AND SOMETHING ELSE ON TOP OF THE AIR COMPRESSOR THERE IS A SQUARE PLUG UNDER THE AIR FILTER COULD YOU TELL ME WHAT IS THAT FOR TOO ???? PLEASE BRO
I just got one and finally got it wired up 2 days ago
I used to have this one...went through to many pressure switches..due to no magnetic starter..anything over 2 hp.or 20amps running you should get a magnetic starter..installed..I learned from my experience. I finally sold mine ..with a starter. On it..the guy told me he has no issues. That was over a yr. Now.. I went for big.. bought a industrial unit ..Saylor-beall.. it came with a starter on it..with a automatic tank drain...3000 grand...American built..in st.johns Michigan...u-tube Saylor-beall..
thanks for sharing friend
you live in MI...... subbed
what kind of pressure switch do you have? I heard it will wear your switch out of you don't put a starter on it
Hi thank you for the video.I want to know where did you buy your air compressor ?
I want to buy one and I live in Michigan too
What is the motor rpm an the compressor rpm an also what is type of motor you use single phasez
I just got mine. I bolted it to the floor with rubber pads. It still vibrates through the house.
I thought I was doing the right thing not leaving it on a pallet. What else can I use?
Question 2: you can adjust how much pressure is actually stored with a screw? Mine actually fills up to 165 and then loses a few over night.
I can make it go to 175 like it’s supposed too?
The 3rd question, what are you using for regulator? IR does not have one in track or supply that can accept 175 inlet pressure. The IR ones there only accepted 140.
I bought a Husky 3/8 one that can take 200 inlet.
I really wanted a 1/2 one to make to this tank. But I need at least 175 inlet and at least 160 outlet if possible.
Tom’s Video Collection did you isolate the tank from the other piping with a rubber hose? Don’t hard pipe them to your system piping.
how quiet is this?
Why the wood on the cage??
Hi, just got that same compressor it is on the video, my question is, only need a 30 am braker? And 10/2 wire? Thank you
Mine has been running on a 30 for years now without issue, and yes 10awg is fine
I just bought one of these. I have a finished closet in my shop I'd like to run it in. The instructions say "provide 1,000 cubic feet of fresh air per minute". I can calculate cubic feet in my shop, but what does "cubic feet per minute mean? I am hoping to run it in a shop that is about 500 square feet with 8 foot ceilings. I want to make sure it is safe to work next to it (carbon monoxide label on front) and am not sure how much ventilation I need if I do keep it in the closet.
Not 100% sure, I didn't read that much into it tbh.. I've had this in two home style garages now right about 480 square feet and never had an issue, still running to this day.. However I've never ran it In a closet alway just been in the open.. My father was a full time GM tech back in the 2000s and he also owned his own shop, he had 2 60 gallon compressors in parrallel in what I would call an outhouse that lived outside with the top vent like a standard outhouse and 2 standard floor heating vent in the side, under shop use they lasted many years.. I'd probably add bigger return air style vents maybe some 24x24s? However id suggest doing your own research as I have little no experience with that other than what my father did and he wasn't running this IR, would hate to see you burn up your compressor, maybe look up some build video on ppl doing enclosure for compressors. Thanks for watching sorry couldn't be more help on this one.
Nice compressor ,d u know the breakin procedure On this model ?
Its been awhile i contacted IR about it i think it was like 10 or 15 mins run with the value open, but i would check with them if you are going to get it, i'm no 100% sure on that.
I have a customer who put one of these in around Oct 2014 and they called and said that the oil was almost all gone, do these things burn oil? it is not leaking oil. their machine runs probably 4-5 hrs a day. They said there is not an oil gauge or site glass to check it.
I don't run mine that much everyday but mine hasn't burn or leaked any as of yet.
+Sean Metz I have the same exact one in this video, an 80 gallon 5hp 2 stage that ive had for 16 months now from tractor supply $1176.99 with tax here in central indiana. I dont use it heavily but i have at times and it dont leak or use any oil, so far its been great
They aren’t shipped with oil, was oil put in it after the install?
They have an oil sight glass for the pump
@@akbychoice We recently bought one for a lamination process and it came with oil in it. They said we could not lay it down when in transit or it would void the warranty.
Is that a 30 amp 125v plug or and 30 amp 220v plug? I have a 30 amp 125 outlet in my shop
This is a 220volt compressor only....hope this helps
Love hearing it’s been a great machine. How long did it last? Just bought and bought the $99 electric auto drain
Its still going!
@@Twisted07 that’s promising!
the copper hose of mine exploded off and there is nowhere a replacement or somebody who can do that
I see this video is now more than 5 years old. If you are still on youtube, are you still happy with it? Where were the parts made? When I looked at one recently at TSC, the compressor was made in India and the motor in China. It is assembled in Kentucky, but the parts all appear to be foreign. Was that the case back when you bought yours?
I recently been looking at a Ingersoll 60 gal 5hp SS4L5 and seen the same..Mexican motor and Indian pump. Also it’s max is 135psi?? It has better CFM than the Dewalt but the Dewalt has a max of 155psi. Dewalt is 50% duty cycle and ingersoll is 100%. I want the ingersoll but been seeing bad reviews and even the store rep said they come back quite a bit with problems (Tank leaking and not filling up, and burnt motors). I grabbed a Dewalt but haven’t hooked it up yet..Really wish ingersoll had quality parts. And saying it’s “built in USA 🇺🇸 “ is BS. So what they bolted on a pump and motor?? Now it’s “Built is the US”??? I figure mine as well buy the cheap Dewalt in the end.
My motor gets hot after it runs for about 10 minutes what should I check?
David Castillo Motors generally run hot when they are running at low voltage. I would check the voltage at the compressor while it is running. If your wire size is too small, you may be getting voltage drop at the motor or it may even be that you have low voltage at your panel. Obviously, a defective motor is always a possibility as well since IR uses foreign motors for all of their low-end compressors now.
@@LTVoyager it calls for 12ga but I put 6ga and for 60 watt breaker and I put 100 watt because I wanted to make sure that everything I had was big enough but it's still getting hot.
David Castillo The specs from the Tractor Supply site say this can pull 21.5 amps. This is far too much for 12 gauge wire so I am not sure where you see that it “calls for” that. 10 gauge would be a minimum as it can handle 30 amps as compared to 20 for 12 gauge. Generally, you don’t want to draw a continuous current of more than 80% of the breaker rating so for 12 gauge wire that is 16 amps and for 10 gauge that is 24 amps. If you used 6 gauge wire, then you should have plenty of margin. I assume you mean 60 amp breaker rather than 60 watts and that is also more than enough although it sounds like you used a 100 amp breaker which is gross overkill. One question, are you sure you have this wired on a 230 V circuit and not 115 V? The motor probably would not run on 115 volts, but if it did, it would likely run very hot. Did you wire this yourself or hire an electrician?
@@LTVoyager yes sir I meant amps, I had a licensed electrician wire it for me, I did speak to tractor supply and they said they think I need to replace the motor, which is about $400
David Castillo I assume the electrician confirmed the voltage, but not everyone does so it still is worth doing that even if you replace the motor. If you have an electrical issue such as a floating neutral or such, not only can that be dangerous, but it can certainly ruin motors. I would ask the electrician to come back and verify correct voltage at the breaker panel and then also at the motor itself before you put on a new motor.
How many hours and years have you owned this for? Most compressors don't start falling apart right after you buy them, its with use. If you are using this 20 hours a week that is pretty light use and you shouldn't be seeing any issues. Bad motors are the biggest complaint with the 5hp units and the motors are seriously expensive.
I don’t think Quincy is any better made than IR. They both use foreign components. You need to step up to something like Jenny if you want a truly great piece of equipment, but you will pay twice as much. All of the sub $1,500 compressors are made in China or India or Southeast Asia and are all pretty low on the quality totem pole.
I find one sketchy thing and a couple puzzling things. I find it sketchy that IR does not incorporate a magnetic starter for a 5hp motor. Based upon my compressor's 5hp motor, inrush current at startup is 49amps (determined via max hold with Fluke clamp meter so I trust my measurement). I do wish you continued good operation with the incorporated pressure switch on your unit. Puzzling is the (apparent) fact IR does not specify the required breaker and leaves it to the installer or end user to figure it out. Another puzzle is the mounting requirement. As an example, I have a Quincy model QP5. It is a vertical 5hp 80 gallon unit. Its installation manual states a 60amp breaker is required with appropriate guage wire to the magnetic starter. It also specifically states vibration pads are not to be used with a vertical unit; only with horizontal units. Lastly the unit must be bolted to the concrete floor. I realize these are different manufacturers but the units are functionality *very* similar to one another. The disparities intrigue me.
I have a Quincy QT-54 2 stage 5hp compressor. It did not come with a magnetic starter so I bought one and installed one. To hit a price point, some compressor come without a magnetic starter. The customer will usually have problems with those cheap factory pressure switches going out and have to replace them. As for mounting, I didn't bolt mine down to the floor. I made some feet out of hockey pucks and it just sits on the concrete floor in the corner of the shop. It doesn't ever move around. The hockey pucks are very hard rubber and gives a solid mount with some isolation properties. I used a 50 amp breaker for the high current inrush on startup and I used 10/2 wire. I also installed an hour meter so I can keep up with oil changes.
buy a Quincy.
Give me the money for a Quincy
That *is* good advice if one can afford it and if one wants a multi generation unit to pass down to offspring.
[EDIT: that said, I did buy a Quincy QP5]