Quincy air compressor and air line manifold system pt 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.พ. 2015
- Quincy 5hp air compressor and piping system install and review. I had 3 sticks of 3/4" "L" type copper pipe, 3 gas valves and about 1 doz elbows. It still cost me over $200 for the rest of the pipe and fittings. The regulators and filters were in addition. It is a 50' system and I am very satisfied with this compressor and air manifold. Bought from air compressors direct saved more than $150 over Northern tool, delivered to my door. Made in the USA
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I have watched numerous videos on water trap systems, you are the only one who did it right. The outlet port of the tank must be higher than the connection to the water trap system otherwise the water will run back into the compressor tank. Very nice system, I'm impressed. That first water separator removes the water from the air travel path. Your system is well thought out, very nice !!!
Great plumbing setup. I'm in FL and have a ton of water in my lines due to temp and humidity in the summer. I have to do something like this. Thank you for the detailed tour of your setup! It will help me a lot in configuring my own setup. Cheers!
I ran 25' of 3/4" galvanized pipe slanted back towards the compressor with a Devilbiss water/oil filter/separater. I don't have isolaters and its not bolted to the floor. I ran 10gage wire 50 feet under concrete and 30amp breakers 220/230volts. Its been like this for 21 yrs, with zero issues. My Cambell Hausfeld just blew up. I went to Northern and picked me a new Quincy comp. 5 H.P. 60.gal. tank. 2-stage. I will upgrade my setup when its delivered.like yours. I love overkill!!!!!(ha,ha) Jimmy
I just bought the exact same one..... I love mine. I just wanted to comment that the manual states the Quincy vertical air compressors should "not" use isolators. They recommend direct bolt to concrete, but leave the nuts loose to allow a little play.
On a side note, I am going to copy your pipe setup... That's awesome! Thanks for the vide.
I'm currently knee deep in my own air project. Hopefully I'll get a video installment added this weekend....please drop by and say hello! Enjoyed the vid.... keep on keeping on.
Everything else is perfect, good job.
Quincy compressors are one of the best
Nice set up
That’s really nice👍🏻
thank you
thanks
Love it man.. only difference is I piped mine directly off the compressor to the water separator then to the tank.. that way I don’t get water in the tank itself..
Phillips 81 Hey. Now I'm thinking about what you did.... that is genius my friend.. The only thing I question is will the heated air from the compressor cause some condensation in the tank anyway. Should still be less doing it your way. When you use it all day open the drain and see if you still get water. Let us know cause your on to something.
Good setup with the copper. I saw pics where a guy did the same thing, but he had 45° elbows instead of 90° elbows to help it flow better. He then had blow out valves at every end just like you. Do you see any PSI drop from where the copper starts to where it ends?
great compressor! and beautiful work!! what sort of work do you do with it?
Have you ever looked into cooling and filtering the air after it comes out of the pump before it go is into the tank. so it stops water going into the compressor tank?
Your setup is awesome! So many people think they know a better way. Yours is great the way it is. Too much is always better than just enogh.
But what are those two filters above that yellow filter? Shouldn't the air be passing through them for them to work? I didn't see a connection for a hose at the end of the filters.
What was the process like for brazing. Did you mount them to the frame first and then braze in place or do it off the frame in sections then mount to the frame? Will the solder hold up if the pipes are put together in sections and then mounted on a frame without causing leaks?
+DJDevon3 Sorry for the delay.. The 3/4" copper pipe comes in 10' lengths which I cut in half. The cut a bunch of pipe about 3" long to attached the elbows form one pipe to another. Soldered everything on several 2X4s on the driveway. Then measured what I had and built my wall. I used furring strips to hold the pipe off the wall so I could fasten my filters and regulators using brass unions to make removal easy. Total run of pipe about 50' on a 4x8 wall
Looks like a great job. I'm about to install plumbing in my garage and am a complete idiot on doing this project. Can someone tell me why all of the extra vertical plumbing lines? Thanks in advance
I have set up a larger IR compressor (120 gl.) and put an in line after-cooler water condenser with a fan on it, from Grainger, set with a timer to run for 20 min. after the comp. shuts off then it connects to a large plastic bowl water separator with an automatic drain and no water getting to the hose reels. In Florida.
manstersr That condenser unit is the way to go.
A Shmuck In a Garage I applaud your ingenuity but with the cost of the pipe you may have been able to buy a commercial unit. I don't remember what the cost of my unit was. It's just a radiator in a box with a fan, not the chiller/refrigerated kind. You could probably build the same thing using an old A/C condenser from a truck out of a junk yard for a fraction of the cost. All it has to do is cool the air enough to let the water vapor condense and drain out at a low point. Another way to do it if you run a pipe across your shop is to slope the pipe to a low point in the middle of the run with a drain coming down to a point that you can open a valve to drain it. A lot of times people forget to do that. And ALWAYS have your line to the point of use tee off of the top of the main line.
your absolutely right. In my situation, a small 2 car garage this works. I already had half of the material and it still cost over $200. I mention that it may be cheaper buying a commercial setup. I needed too keep all of my regulators close together. There are lots of cheaper ways. Thanks for the input.... I need to get back to the garage.
+manstersr Can you shoot a video of your setup. I'd like to see that.
That is probably one of the best ways to build a shop air distribution system.
Wow man, good job. I think it's a bit of overkill though. I've seen many people run the dryer with just one to three loops at most. Saw you are in Florida though so I suppose it makes sense to have more since you are already swimming in the air lol.
Nice compressor.
Do you paint a lot ?
Great video, when you said you had 3 sticks of pipe, were they 20'? That looks a lot of piping to me.. about how long are each piece before the elbows?
Each runner is approximately 5' between elbows.. about 50' total. About half the material I had. Still spent $100 + There are cheaper alternatives. Check some of the comments. Very good suggestions. Don't use pvc
I like your setup, insure if I want to go the air drier route or air condenser
M41LO Do some research. There are a lot of options out there. Stay away from PVC. A friend of mind used 3/4 PVC. It looked good and lasted 6 years. The PVC got brittle and blew up a fitting when his 7 yr daughter tried to put air in her bicycle tire, Piece of the fitting hit her in the forehead. Could have been her eye.
I used copper because I had most of the pipe and fittings. It's been awhile and is working great. Thanks for the comment.
Beautifully done. I'm sure your air is mostly dry with a setup like this. Was that BB King playing in the background? Love jazz and blues when I'm working in the shop!
Yes... No more water. But for painting another filter or two down the line can't hurt. I no longer have a shortage of air when using a die grinder or DA. It's just bananas. I believe it was BB King. I play a Traditional Blues channel from Pandora. Love it.
Albert King.
Great job! Are you using copper in the attic as well? By the way, great blue music in the background! Who is it?!!
I have the same compressor and your setup for keeping the water out of your air lines is great when I saw your video I made a smaller version of your setup with galvanized pipe and so far is ok but I got a question for you does your compressor tank gets to hot because mine does
From what we read, as air compresses, it rises in temperature dramatically, to around 300 deg. There are coolers you can add that will cool the air as it is compressed and goes into the tank, which also causes the water vapor to condense and trap in the tank, where you can drain it.
hello mr shmuck haha just funny love the work that you did..... i just had to repair my drain valve... i was wondering if you could go more in depth on how and what you used ......from compressor to wall looks yellow maybe air hose line i need to do something like that... i was going to try hot water flex copper line.....ty
+anthony marasco Sorry for the delay in answering. The yellow line I believe is 1/2" flex air line by 3' I think I purchased it on line from JEGS. I fastened it to the first water separator / regulator using a 1/2" brass unions and to the tank with a 1/2" street ell and 1/2" brass ball valve found @ Home Depot. From the other side of the filter with a 1/2" brass nipple to another union. Then it was all 3/4" (L)copper pipe and elbows. Also used brass gas valves for the drains. If you don't have spare parts then this setup is expensive. Other people use dryers from automobile AC units with good results and cheaper. I had several sticks of the 3/4" pipe and fittings and solder. This setup will set you back more than $200. But it works very well and fits on a 4X8 plywood wall.
Nice set up. If you'd run the copper horizontal with a slight drop you could have gotten away with only one drip valve.
Maybe... Here in FL. I always had water in my air hoses. Your right I could maybe have gotten a way with just 2 drain valves One would not be enough. The first leg drains water and the 2nd also drains some water. Before that I was using 50' of 3/8" inch line in the attic then down to a drain valve then up and down 25' to an air filter / water separator. Still I had water issues. Since I had most of the material on hand, I decided to go this route. no more water. Is it the best? No but it works. Thanks for the comment.
@@ashmuckinagarage8321 i am building one just like yours, i am almost done with it, couple more hours to go before i mount it to the wall, i hope it works, i am here in Florida also and my problem is i go into a 50 degree room with the air, we just make so much water, i think i will be adding a 15300 cooler also in the future, nice build, i hope it cuts down some water
I like your video...Great information. I am setting up my new compressor and am looking for an equipment cord and plug like you have in the video. Do you mind if I ask where you got it? Thanks
I got the cord from Home Depot . Take your measurement from your electrical source and ask your Big Box Store for "power cord" If your using low voltage (110-120) Ask for 10 gauge 3 conductor. That should be fine for most installations unless a longer run of 40' is needed.
My Brother, what is the reason for the $200 worth of up and down on the copper? Do you have that much water? I have ordered the quincy compressor and I am planning the piping now but I was thinking about doing this after the compressor but before it reaches the tank.
Dev Everything Thanks for the comment.. I live in Florida and the humidity is very high. The reason for up and down is I was trying to conserve space. Most shops run their pipe at an angle long the wall. With the condensate draining back towards the compressor. Somewhere I read that you should use a minimum of 30' with drops after the 30'. I didn't have that wall space. But now I have 50' of pipe. I get no water not a drip at the last valve. I'm always learning and there maybe better ways to achieve the same result. This project was within my abilities and budget. If you really do your research you will find a multitude of ideas. Find one that matches your skill set, budget and requirements.
thanks brother! (i can see your toolbox 0:01)
@@ashmuckinagarage8321 you answered a very big question for me here, we have at work a compressor upstairs and it runs about non stop, we drain it 2 times a day, but the hoses run straight down to the room downstairs to water separators, we run 3 lines and 1 room that 2 lines go into is about 50 degrees, we make so much water, yes we live in Florida also, this problem has been going on for years and i am now doing research how to stop the water problem, thanks for much help here
I’m having a weird situation. I have a desiccant with oil remover filter and a regulator with another filter going to a 3/8 air hose with all high flow fittings. The tank is 80gallons and the regulator is set to about 90psi from the hose. I noticed that when I use a tool the hose shrinks almost like it was full to the max but as soon as I use it shrinks. I don’t seem to be losing air pressure as I’m using the tool though. Should I get a regular regulator with no filter? Maybe I’m having a little air restriction? I have 1/2 copper lines going into a 3/8 hose. Another think I’m thinking is maybe it’s too much air pressurized in the hose. I don’t want that hose exploding on me
Dang....I can't think of what is causing that. If I am understanding right, your hose collapses as you use the tool? Is the hose of high quality? Is your filter dry??? I'm at a loss, sorry. Please get back if you figure out what is causing this condition. Thanks
A Shmuck In a Garage it doesn’t collapse to where I lose pressure but you can tell it moves after letting off the tool trigger. What is weird is that I don’t see a drop in pressure. I ran a cut off wheel and it kept up. I am using 1/2 copper into 50ft 3/8 flexzilla hose. My garage is fairly small. It is an 80 gallon tank. My other suspicion is that maybe I’m ramming too much air? My secondary regulator is set at 100psi
Use just the pads no hold down bolts or screws a hint from a Quincy dealer. Jeff
as top heavy as these compressors are you would be nuts to not bolt them down!
I did use thin pads and bolted it down but not tight at all. More of a failsafe from walking or tipping
Quincy should dump your stupid ass. They specifically state the exact opposite of what you just recommended. No isolators, and you MUST anchor it.
jason beaulieu Well, Mr Jason, THEIR OWN ENGINEERS HAVE ADMITTED TO SUBMITTING A MODIFICATION TO THEIR PUBLISHER ON CHANGING THE “NO PAD” POLICY.....so before you get the big keyboard commando attitude, be a little bit humbler
How long are your copper runs on that wall ?
ea pipe run is 5'. I cut and cleaned the ends and fittings (important for good connections ) laid them out on the driveway on top of two 2x4s. soldered them together. Then took measurements and built the wall. It serves me well and matched my skill level. There are better methods especially if you use an air dryer.
how much psi can copper take before it burst
Well off the top of my head, it depends on the solder you use. If you use 50/50 solder the psi would be around 150 with a safety margin. Use silver solder and I believe your pressure rating would be over 300#
Thanks for info
do you have plans or dimensions and parts
I don't have a parts list. I used extra 3/4 copper pipe. Make sure it is at least "L" grade. I had some and some vales and fittings. You might not need all that. I went with a total of 50' of copper. The valves are 3/4 gas vales. First filter is 3' from the tank. The reason 50' --- Here in Florida the air temperature from the tank just raised the concern as it was fairly warm after 30'. So I went and added 2 more runs. It didn't really take up any more room. Laid it out on the driveway and silver soldered all connections. Then mounted it to a 4x8 sheet of plywood. Thanks for the interest.
Quincy specifys NOT to use isolation pads in their manual (Sept 2018 Edition) in reference to vertical models.
3 sticks is fifty
73 SUPERGLIDE No 3 sticks is 30'
Dissimilar metal corrosion happens when you run hot moisture laden air through copper, like this system has. The air comes out of the cylinder, moves through the copper picking up microscopic amounts of copper and copper oxides as it cools and condenses, and then produces high levels of corrosion anywhere it contacts aluminum. Like expensive air tools. So just eliminate copper from your system altogether, or only use it at a point in the system where all the moisture has been removed, such as downstream from a large desiccant air dryer.
I'm aware that many commercial compressors like this one use short lengths of copper tubing and often to no detriment, but adding more to the system - especially where the air stream has cooled and moisture condensed out - is simply begging for long term damage. There's several TH-camrs with videos who can attest to that.
That is a great comment, so if I understood correctly, you are saying to use all copper pipe, instead of mixing the metals to prevent a galvanic reaction. But still, the air will come from the steel tank, which is a dissimilar metal or this happens only with the stream of air coming out of the tank
Me....I bought a 120.00 heat exchanger off if ebay that's rated for 360psi. A lot less money and time spent doing the up and down method
WHY????????????????????
+Nails Why what? :D) If your asking why all of the pipe. It's for water separation. The longer run gives the hot to warm air leaving the compressor time to condense down to water which then can be drained and filtered away. It works extremely well. There are other systems that you can build that maybe even more efficient with instructions on you-tube. It's all dependent on what your comfortable building and you budget.
For that much money, why not just buy an air dryer.
why would you waste all that time and money when you can actually get a refrigerated compressed air dryer at Harbor Freight tool for $400
why would he spend 400 dollars when he can spend 200?
accordfreak1 I'd spend the $400 to achieve a 35 to 40 degree dew point
ROTARYCOMPTECH BINGO!!!!! No one talks about dew point
Geez sus...... use a tripod!!!!