Why the bad reviews Ingersoll Rand
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มี.ค. 2021
- This is my opinion and tips on buying an Ingersoll Rand air compressor as some of you might be in the market for or already own. In this video I look into some technical details about this compressor and gives some tips on how to make it better and last for you if you do own or decide to buy one.
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40 years ago I bought a IR 4000 series 60 gal 5 hp. I am a master mechanic / electrician and work in my shop every day. This compressor has been set to 155 psi it's entire life. I have replaced the presure switch 2 times in 40 years. Pretty good. Finally, the air pump is getting weak on the old girl. So I bought new 80 gallon from TSC. The trick to any high amp draw device is providing the correct ampreage. (see Johns comment below). Remember, as amprege rises voltage drops, and visa versa. With out a correct instalation you will over heat any device. As I believe in over engineering any thing I do, I went with 8 gage direct wiring, a 30 amp double pole breaker, and added a mag start set to 26 amps and have had ZERO issues. I also added the IR professional air reg drier oiler assembly. This thing is simply a beast. Ya gotta remember amprege draw at start up on any compressor is very high. Wire it correctly, install it correctly, and you will be fine. FYI, all air compressors are the same, no matter the brand- they do one thing- compress AIR. Why pay over 3k for what this IR will do for less then halve that.
The manufacturers of equipment push the motors hard so that they can advertise better performance. What you missed on the motor nameplate data was after the amp rating. SF 1.15 and SFA 25.3 - 23.8
That is the service factor rating (15%) and the maximum amps that the motor can run.
The start and run capacitors, as well as the centrifugal start switch cause more problems than running into the service factor. Capacitors fail over time because of heat. That motor will get pretty hot under normal running conditions. It is also important to check the voltage at the motor at full load to be sure there is no voltage drop in the electrical service as low voltage will shorted the life also.
A motor starter is a good idea because the pressure switch contacts are now having to pass that full motor current.
I’ve had a 5 hp 60 gallon for 20 years and zero issues except I had to replace the motor once on 20 years. I upgraded to an 80 gallon,similar to the one in the video 2:11 and it had to have the pump replaced because it had a rattle and it silvered up the oil. Ingersol replaced it and I’ve had no issues. I did buy a very very nice drier/regulator assembly.
By the way the 5 horse power motor is a very good motor for the compressor . It just needs the right amps going to it. You want get the amps you need from the cheep switch it came with. Magnetic Starter will give it what it needs..
Three things I did...
1. Check the run cap. Brand New mine was weak.
2. Install an adjustment pressure switch. With cut out at 165 and cut in at 100 it cycles less often. Adjust to your taste.
3. I put a slightly smaller motor pulley on which also dropped the amperage. Recovery time at the above stated pressures was about 20 seconds longer. Not a problem.
It's a shame that we have to do these things but it's the results of a marketing, numbers pissing contest.
"My compressor puts out more cfm, psi, blah, blah, blah."
That being said, try buying a Quincy or any other industrial grade compressor for a thousand bucks.
After the above fixes, I'm tickled with mine.
💥🔨 Not sure why it took me so long to figure this out. I’m more into pressure washers for auto detailing and of course it’d be the same marketing scheme.
Not a fan of chemical guys in general but their new pw on the box claims 2030 psi 1.77 gpm. Then after removing unit from the box it magically drops to about 1/2 to the “working psi/gpm” funny thing is it’s really 0 psi. Many returns after an hour of use.
Iv had mine for over 10 years and never had a problem. It’s identical to the one you have there. I got the original regulator with no problems at all. I do have an automatic water drain on it. And just changed the oil on it almost a week ago.
I'll be looking at Eastwoods scroll compressor, they supposedly fixed the issues they had. These piston compressors are generally 90db, way too loud for my garage.
What switch did you use to replace the factory switch? Great video BTW.
Could you put a smaller pulley on motor to make it easier on motor? Thanks for the switch idea and video. Do you have a link for switch? I just got that same compressor and motor is bad. Thanks.
Magnetic Starter Switch!!!!!
But I can say I only know this AFTER purchasing the SS80. It'll make a difference if you are having current related problems or maybe even possible future ones.
Godd luck folk!!
I cannot see you at the bottom of the compressor it’s leaking heart do you fix it?
What’s the part number of the switch mine gust quit
I found one used. Threw a magnetic starter on the other day so as not to burn out the pressure switch. Works well so far. Mine came set to shut off at 150psi. Which should be fine for my needs.
But it goes to show you can’t seem to buy a truck, tool, anything these days w/o having to mod/upgrade it out of the box. Just a bunch of planned obsolescence everywhere.
What magnetic starter did you get?
@@timsimpson9081
WEG 5 HP Single Phase Magnetic Starter Electric Motor Control NEMA
1 208-240 V × 1
alternately, you could use a smaller drive pulley to get the higher pressure. I won't run the same CFMs tho.
Cfms are located at the compressor output. Basically how many cfm at 45/90psi the compressor outputs. A tank filled to 175psi is 175psi. How many gallons determines how long ur pressure stays above 45/90psi working pressure. What size air hose also. Cfms are ouput of the compressor
I've found a good deal on one of these at an overstock place.....so am I understanding you correctly that the amp draw is within spec. pushing up to 150psi, but above that the motor begins to pull more amps than it's rated for? I'm fine with that, and I don't have a problem replacing the switch and limiting the psi to 150 if that's the solution (other than a higher hp motor).
Correct up to 150 psi your fine but above 150 psi it starts to overwork the motor and the amps start to get out of spec
@@KTcustoms I noticed in the specs for this compressor the max. psi is listed as 135. I guess this is something that has changed recently. I assume the one I'm getting will already have the switch set up to cut off at 135psi. I guess we'll see after I get it wired in and switched on.
@@timsimpson9081 You're referencing model SS4L5 by Ingersoll Rand. The compressor in the video is model TS4N5 by Ingersoll Rand.
The switch is the issue .. no matter how many switches you put on.. You will always have the same problem . The only way to fix it is to put a magnetic starter on it . If you go with a larger motor you will still have the same issue. Give the motor what it needs (AMPS)and it's game over on the issues . This compressor should have came with a starter but it was made cheep and sold cheep( super good motor , super good pump and super good tank) . If you pick this same compressor with a starter ?? Now you are talking 700 to 1000 more . I paid under 80 for the starter switch and it works everyday no issues and it runs super different than before .. It was scary on how much power this compressor has now !!! Now would you run your 220 ac unit off of a switch or a magnetic starter ??
Your missing a magnetic starter...the co cuts costs on there bottom line...put it on the unit. A pressure switch is not a starter for a air comprsoir..or u,ll go through many pressures switchs over time...my Saylor-beall air is a 3 hp.1ph 230v ...with a magnetic starter..turns off at 175 psi..must folks need no more then 5hp...in a home shop setting..my dad had a 5 bay service station with a 5 hp.120 gal tank. With in ground lifts.in each bay.. the 5hp.did the job just fine...kept up well with air tools as well . More hp. Don't always do better...it just cost more in your electric bill. ..using 50 amps or more ..on a 7hp. Or bigger..unit..I'm old school and my 3hp. Runs my inground 2 post lift in my hobby shop .just fine. Ty.for the video..
My motor dosnt have a button on it.. I hope this helps your unit..thank for your reply..
The wire gauge and breakers are exactly the reason for so much failure on these motors. The crank up amps are the kick start of this motor, smaller wire other than 8 gauge will brown out on startup. This motor needs all available amps to start it, running amps are one thing, have enough amps on start up is another. If you have any thing less than 8 gauge wire from the breaker box, your headed for motor failure.
what model square d did you use?
Not sure of model number but I got it off of Amazon you can get them in what ever pressure range you want or you can adjust it. It’s just like what goes on your well pump just is a higher pressure this is an actual Square D air compressor switch
i just bought one of these from tractor supply i have the bigger 7.5hp motor and v style 2 stage pump i don't understand how on there website for replacement parts my bigger electric motor the replacement one is a 3 phase the one thats identical on my new one says it's single phase if it burns up there gonna replace it i got the 2 year warrenty as well i don't think mine has the electric over amp issues yours does as it has the newer box switch but i think mine should be 3 phase not single it's 7.5hp 175PSI 80 gallon 2 stage compressor running single phase 230 volts People at tractor supply didn't know anything about it but it was on sale with the 2 year warrenty i paid $1,574 for it
Ingersol rand makes your compressor in both single phase 240vac and 3 phase. You were looking at the wrong chart is all. Scroll till you see the correct voltage chart and you'll see the correct pn. I own both the 7.5hp and the 5hp v style units-they are exceptional compressors and you will have zero issues for years.
Ps if you bought a 24n75 80gal ir compressor for under 1600 dollars you paid less for it than I did in 1996, so way to go.
You need to add a magnetic starter
.to ad it.. I garentee u won't burn out your motor.,and the pressure switch....IR ..bottom line..they didn't put one on you unit..to save them money..I have a 3 hp.2 stage industrial comprsoir...220 v.in my home shop...it came with a magnetic starter..draws less amps..when running about..16 amps at 175 p.s.i. when it shuts down.. no issues....mine American made in st.johns,Michigan....it's a Saylor-beall..unit...I looked at IR...heard same thing..about there issues...check out Saylor-beall...heavy pocket change..but worth it..and runs quite....check them out on utube..great video..friend..ty..pls add a magnetic starter. It won't disappoint you....in the future..
There's no magnet starter..that motor runs very high RPM S..i see u used a good pressure switch.. i bought a new sailor Buell made in st.johns ,mich
What’s your voltage? 115/120/125? It’s ok to check amperage at the breaker but voltage should be checked at the motor. Amperage used depends on the voltage. OK to check amperage at the breaker but voltage only counts at the motor connection in the controller. If for instance your at 115 it’s going to use more amps then at 120. I wouldn’t worry one bit about the amperage at 175 or as it’s approaching it. That motor has plenty of over build over cool built into it for those short periods. But nice to see someone who has the knowledge to check and make adjustments.
I never worried about this stuff with my 10 gallon Harbor Freight Air compressor
Only 70 gallons smaller..... crazy it would be different.
When I want to soup things up, I add 3 20gallon air auxiliary tanks to that 10 gallon compressor
My question is why do you need 175 psi for?
Pressure rules with impact tools. Lower psi is fine for inflating tires and running spray guns but not for impacts and air hammers.
Sandblasters, DA sanders, air chisels, wind tunnels...
The high tank pressure and large tank provide reserve capacity for running devices that consume more air than the compressor and motor can deliver.
Compressors such as this can also run several tools simultaneously.
FYI with 175 psi, you can run a wind tunnel up to Mach 3.
All the cheap home compressors are overrated. The motors are undersized for the rated load. They also falsely claim 100% duty cycle, which is not a true statement.
To run the full 175 psi without over amping the motor this compressor really should have the 7.5 hp motor on it.
Duty cycle ... the motor nameplate data sticker says at the top "Duty Rater with actual Full Load amps." Since it is set to run into the service factor, that 100% should be de-rated, but they won't tell you that.
It was a good unit..parts come from china..American built... hads one..replaced with a Saylor-beall. American made ,built all cast iron..you pay for what you want ..3grand for mine..it will out last me..and my 30 yr old son..they use balldor moters hobell pressure switch.s..I need 175 psi.. mine a 5hp.2 stage 230 v. I have all the air to do body work in my home shop..and my inground lift..80 gal tank..
..
Now the parts come from India and electric motor from Mexico
No mag starter, no deal 😞
Don't buy this compressor I have same compressor and the pump went out with in a year of light use. That's a years worth of air for $1200.
If you were going to buy the biggest baddest air compressor, should have bought a Quincy
you missed the part where he said "that I can afford" even the $1800 Quincy is no better. Gotta pony up BIG bucks for a good one.
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This line of compressor's is home owner quality not even light commercial use.Fred described them perfectly.
I guess this one is a bad egg the 60 gallon works good but not a 80 gallon.
At least its made in the USA.
Assembled in the USA the compressor pump states on the crankcase made in India
Motor is from mexico, pump is from india, all assembled in the USA, very good air compressor though.
@@ricktombuit3648 to me the Indian pump is better than a Chinese pump… not made of money have to make a compromise somewhere
@@ricktombuit3648 also you can tell it’s a pump specifically designed by Ingersoll Rand and not some generic crap
@@looking_33 From what I infer shopping for a compressor, Ingersoll Rand makes more generic crap than any other big brands. Yes, they make some very good industrial equipment but this line is your typical generic crap. And most shameless for they to fly the American flag when we all know nearly everything on this thing is imported from countries with the lowest wages. I'd bet they only assembling done in the USA is bolt the motor and pump onto the frame and slap on the patriotic label.
Ingersol Rand’s are foreign made junk . The pumps are junk and are run at a higher rpm to compress the air . The motors are 3450 rpm running the pump until they break a rod and they will sooner or later . The rods are even cheap aluminum crap that won’t last . And the pressure switch is not rated for that high of amperage that’s why hey burn up .
Mine is 10 years old and still going strong.
I agree junk...the condenser went on mine it was never put together properly to begin with...after 1.5years old it should have stood up better than this... no customer service