Excellent video! Gotter done in about 3 hours with only one trip to the parts store to replace a broken vacuum line. Fluctuating idle problem is fixed! Thanks a million!
Bro,,, Thank you for making this video! It was a great help! My idle problem in the Millennium Falcon is fixed! Most people don't know the Falcon runs on a 22re. May the force be with you !
Watching videos of how to clean the throttle body lead me to your video and the discovery of the IAC valve (didn't know it existed). I'll check my IAC now with the help of your video, so THANKS.
2007 5.7 Tundra had this issue with idle roaming near 2000 rpm. I used a scanner and charted both downstream O2 sensors. One side was flat lining every so often and the other stayed in a uniform wave. Even though a code never tripped, I changed both sensors, re-teach the idle . Key on off 2 x, start the engine, put it in drive with the brake applied for 2 minutes. Idle went to normal just below 1000.
Thank you so much for passing on this information! Solved my high idle issue my 22re has had for years. Can you delete the AIC? EI just keep the tape over the hole?? Thanks again man!
I have a 93’ 22RE, would this also fix engine that idles really low when I give it gas, it only seems to give me problems when the truck is warmed up. if the truck is warmed up and I turn it off and go to turn it back on, it shuts off, runs really rich. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
when i did my TPS i knew i was gonna have trouble taking the screws out and i did. I just cut a line across with a hack saw and used a flat head and it came out easily
Yo it sounds like your timing chain guide is broken, mine was too and I ignored it. Not a good idea. It is super common on these engines. The driver side guide likes to break at the top bolt (at least that's what mine did) and cause a bunch of chain slap. Eventually my guide snapped and a chunk of it fell down into the crank gear and just about destroyed the chain and caused it to jump timing. This caused the intake valves to contact the pistons and bend. Busted the timing cover too. Metal bits got past the filter (brand new fram, never again) and wrecked the bearings and crank in no time at all. Now I'm rebuilding the entire engine when I could have just replaced a guide. Don't be like me, check your guide. tons of people recommend going with upgraded metal guides, but I'm going a step further and upgrading to a dual row timing set, supposedly the fix for the Achilles heel of the 22RE. Great vid man, hope your luckier than me with your engine.
Hey, thanks for the response! I considered this, but I replaced the timing chain and guides with new OEM parts (made in Japan, although not the metal guides) early last year. Is it possible that the timing chain somehow skipped a tooth? I'd imagine my engine would have blown up by now if it did, but it hasn't. I'm also looking into the possibility that it is related to an exhaust leak - I'm still not getting a really reliable idle.
@@speedygarage264 Yea it could have skipped a tooth but it would run really bad, it would also most likely skip more teeth and eventually dig a valve into a piston. Check your oil pressure with a real gauge, the stock gauge is super inaccurate. I think my first comment was not correct, after investigating my engine further (and completely rebuilding it) I think it was low oil pressure that caused all my problems. Ive posted a couple videos of the rebuild and will post a new one soon of it running. let me know what you think
Gracias por el consejo. Pregunta: la marcha en mi Toyota está mal, tiembla cuando lo prendo ya caliente. Estaba pensando qué tal vez es esa válvula causando el problema. Que la válvula no abre suficientemente para dejar pasar aire. Debe de estar cerrada 100% ya que el motor esté en su temperatura de operación? Ósea, solo ayuda (dejando aire pasar) cuando está frío el motor y después cierra cuando sube la temperatura a lo que debe ser?
@@DePalma. no creo que se eso , la iac cuando está mal se queda acelerado , puede qu sientas vibración en la cabina por algún soporte dañado o le falta aire ala combustión le puedes intentar subir ala media vueltita a donde segula el aire cualquier cosa y ver qué hace
Thanks for your Sugguestion but my Idle still remain high and I just can not bring down lower ?????? and engine not surging iddle????????????Probadly have to replace IAC ???(Suscribed )
I did this test because my vehicle had the high idle upon starting then it would start surging like this video. When I covred the hole in the throttle body the truck would no longer idle, any idea where to try next?
@@speedygarage264 Thank you for the response. I actually have one on the way with the plan of replacing it. Temperature readings have been all off but it isn't overheating.
@@nikdommen Mine wasn't overheating either, but the new coolant temp sensor actually solved a lot of my issues. I was planning on making a video about it at some point!
Excellent video! Gotter done in about 3 hours with only one trip to the parts store to replace a broken vacuum line. Fluctuating idle problem is fixed!
Thanks a million!
Sounds just like my car right now, my car sounds like it’s having an asthma attack just like yours, I’ll fix it tonight 😎
Bro,,, Thank you for making this video! It was a great help!
My idle problem in the Millennium Falcon is fixed!
Most people don't know the Falcon runs on a 22re. May the force be with you !
Subscribed.
Watching videos of how to clean the throttle body lead me to your video and the discovery of the IAC valve (didn't know it existed). I'll check my IAC now with the help of your video, so THANKS.
Still helping! great vid thanks.
2007 5.7 Tundra had this issue with idle roaming near 2000 rpm. I used a scanner and charted both downstream O2 sensors. One side was flat lining every so often and the other stayed in a uniform wave. Even though a code never tripped, I changed both sensors, re-teach the idle . Key on off 2 x, start the engine, put it in drive with the brake applied for 2 minutes. Idle went to normal just below 1000.
Great video sir, thank you!
Thank you so much for passing on this information! Solved my high idle issue my 22re has had for years. Can you delete the AIC? EI just keep the tape over the hole??
Thanks again man!
As long as your water temp stays over 140 F. Otherwise... No.
Thank you!
Awesome info! Greetings from Texas. :)
Hey, do you need to burp the coolant system after reconnecting the coolant hoses?
Definitely good practice to do so!
How do you burp the coolant system?
Great video!
Thank you! Glad it helped!
I have a 93’ 22RE, would this also fix engine that idles really low when I give it gas, it only seems to give me problems when the truck is warmed up. if the truck is warmed up and I turn it off and go to turn it back on, it shuts off, runs really rich. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
This could be the issue, but it could also be the coolant temp sensor. I had the same issue and the temp sensor is what fixed it for me.
@@speedygarage264 I ended up changing the coolant temp sensor 2 weeks ago and it’s been running like a brand new truck, thank you for the reply though
excellent video can you send me the link of the valve where you bought it please thanks
when i did my TPS i knew i was gonna have trouble taking the screws out and i did. I just cut a line across with a hack saw and used a flat head and it came out easily
Suscribed Any chance you have a part # of IAC valve Thanks.
The one I put in is Standard Motors AC141.
Great video
Yo it sounds like your timing chain guide is broken, mine was too and I ignored it. Not a good idea. It is super common on these engines. The driver side guide likes to break at the top bolt (at least that's what mine did) and cause a bunch of chain slap. Eventually my guide snapped and a chunk of it fell down into the crank gear and just about destroyed the chain and caused it to jump timing. This caused the intake valves to contact the pistons and bend. Busted the timing cover too. Metal bits got past the filter (brand new fram, never again) and wrecked the bearings and crank in no time at all. Now I'm rebuilding the entire engine when I could have just replaced a guide. Don't be like me, check your guide. tons of people recommend going with upgraded metal guides, but I'm going a step further and upgrading to a dual row timing set, supposedly the fix for the Achilles heel of the 22RE. Great vid man, hope your luckier than me with your engine.
whats the sound like? my 1990 4runner is super ticky kinda sounds like an exhaust leak
@@ogonbio8145 yea kinda like an exhaust leak, a lot of people would jokingly ask me if was a diesel
Hey, thanks for the response! I considered this, but I replaced the timing chain and guides with new OEM parts (made in Japan, although not the metal guides) early last year. Is it possible that the timing chain somehow skipped a tooth? I'd imagine my engine would have blown up by now if it did, but it hasn't. I'm also looking into the possibility that it is related to an exhaust leak - I'm still not getting a really reliable idle.
@@speedygarage264 Yea it could have skipped a tooth but it would run really bad, it would also most likely skip more teeth and eventually dig a valve into a piston. Check your oil pressure with a real gauge, the stock gauge is super inaccurate. I think my first comment was not correct, after investigating my engine further (and completely rebuilding it) I think it was low oil pressure that caused all my problems. Ive posted a couple videos of the rebuild and will post a new one soon of it running. let me know what you think
That’s worse case scenario. Sorry brotha
0:38 i do this test with the hose attached ? should i just let it sit there and warm with hose off ?
My truck starts to have a fluttering idle when I have my foot on the brake when the engine is hot. How do I fix this
Either what I show here, or it is likely the coolant temperature sensor. I can make a video on how to fix that if it would help you.
Could also be your brake booster / vacuum leak
Esa válvula se lava carbuclin y se aceita con w40 y vuelve a servir muy bien
Gracias por el consejo.
Pregunta: la marcha en mi Toyota está mal, tiembla cuando lo prendo ya caliente. Estaba pensando qué tal vez es esa válvula causando el problema.
Que la válvula no abre suficientemente para dejar pasar aire.
Debe de estar cerrada 100% ya que el motor esté en su temperatura de operación? Ósea, solo ayuda (dejando aire pasar) cuando está frío el motor y después cierra cuando sube la temperatura a lo que debe ser?
@@DePalma. no creo que se eso , la iac cuando está mal se queda acelerado , puede qu sientas vibración en la cabina por algún soporte dañado o le falta aire ala combustión le puedes intentar subir ala media vueltita a donde segula el aire cualquier cosa y ver qué hace
Can you clean it instead of replacing it?
Thanks for your Sugguestion but my Idle still remain high and I just can not bring down lower ?????? and engine not surging iddle????????????Probadly have to replace IAC ???(Suscribed )
Tighten your idle control screw on the passenger side of the throttle body
I did this test because my vehicle had the high idle upon starting then it would start surging like this video. When I covred the hole in the throttle body the truck would no longer idle, any idea where to try next?
Have you checked the coolant temperature sensor?
@@speedygarage264 Thank you for the response. I actually have one on the way with the plan of replacing it. Temperature readings have been all off but it isn't overheating.
@@nikdommen Mine wasn't overheating either, but the new coolant temp sensor actually solved a lot of my issues. I was planning on making a video about it at some point!
my 1991 truck runs fine but wants to stall when I put it in gear....any recommendations?
Does it sputter while you drive?
22re throttle body not created equal.
Mines don’t look like that
You didn't turn it on to see how it sounded after
22r idle is fine but when accelerate it surges and bogs down
I had the same thing - for me it was the coolant temp sensor - cheap part and easy fix. I'll be uploading a video of that fix in the next few weeks.
3:34
That valve works the hose it's clogged thats it... Those iac valves are design to last 100 years