Get your supplies and tools here to clean your IACV and throttle body: Throttle body cleaner: amzn.to/3hAl52F (US) amzn.to/3liEhmE (Canada) 3/8" Ratchet set: amzn.to/3hA7LLD (US) amzn.to/3zgHE2d (Canada)
Are you telling me you don't have JS philips head screwdrivers? Those dang things are only really needed for idle air control valves. Not sure why those are the only screw heads a regular philips won't work on.
Getting ready to replace the cruise control linkage on my 03 Honda, this video will be of great help. Dorman makes a kit to replace the plastic linkage on those, 977-100 if anyone needs it. Thanks a bunch for this video!
This ranks right up among the top DIY mechanic videos. No BS or excessive gobbledygook lingo - straightforward and professional grade editing. Right on, Speedkar99!
DUDE, THIS IS HOW YOU TH-cam. Short, sweet and right down to it. Thank you for saving me a trip to the computer and an hour of sifting through thread arguments about nonsense.
Among all the video ive ever seen, This one is the most excellent, brilliant and complete tutorial step by step how to remove and clean The TB and IAC, very simple but perfect. Bravo..
I really appreciate the style of these videos, step by step with a little description to help you understand what each thing your disconnecting is doing. Still new to the way car engines work so I get a little worried when something happens to my car but this video was very helpful good stuff
I just replaced my Idle Air Control valve. I inspected the old one and discovered why Honda calls it a rotary air control valve. The valves consists of a rotary shutter on two sealed ball bearings. They do not need cleaned, but rather lubricated. Using carb or brake cleaner will impair the ball bearings from working by drying up what lubrication they have left, making your problem worse! Mine was "sticky" I lubricated the ball bearings and it turns as smooth as "silk". DO NOT CLEAN THEM, OIL THEM!
This advise saved me!Thank you!!I cleaned it out and it wouldn’t work.But after scrolling down and reading this comment ,I took it all off again and sprayed some penetrating-lubricating oil and it work.I couldn’t believe it.Thank you!’
John, thank you for the advice. Have surging idle. Just replaced a broken IAC valve with a used one (that I cleaned) and while the car runs better, it still isn't driveable. Going to pull the IAC and soak it in penetrating oil.
I absolutely love the way you told me everything you were doing while you were doing. I did not have to rewind at all. You also kept it entertaining. Thanks. Frfr. Bc I'm a female learning how to fix my own car, alone. So I'm definately going to subscribe...
Great video, especially the added mention of check and clean the PCV (Crankcase vent) Valve, when this valve gets sticky, like you said causes all sorts of other issues. Back to your cleaning of the IACV, one thing that I do when removing and replacing all engine mounting bolts is clean the shank and threads on the wire wheel then apply Anti-Seize. Due to the dis-similar metals of the steel bolt and aluminum block, it creates a source of electrical corrosion. This is why it is difficult to remove (especially the first time removal) the bolts. not because they are really tight, its is because of the dis-similar metal corrosion built up between the metal surface of the bolts and the aluminum casting and eventually become seized to the point we break then off and need to remove the broken studs. A little cleaning and application of Anti-Seize or any lubricant can go along way to make next time removals go much easier. Thank You again, a very well done [Short & to the point] instructional video.
Regardless, you are a no nonsense mechanic that does things right, just like me, I'm a no nonsense bicycle mechanic (since 1967)), that does things right. Good Work.
If only everyone followed your method of producing these videos. Awesome! I came here to see if a buzzing sound at some lower rpms in my '12 Si could be a sticky pcv valve.
Fantastic video - conveys a lot of information understandibly and quickly. And funny, too. Very likable guy who will probably be a TH-cam star soon enough.
Great, no nonsense info. (I'll bet your dad or brother doesn't smile often) Instruction fast and great because we have a pause button. Thank you very much!
Excellent video. High resolution. Nice and steady too. I got stuck reassembling the accelerator cables. Had a heck of a time getting one back on and routing it correctly.
Clear and concise, well made tutorial. Only one thing I wanted to add: PB BLASTER!!!! Ypouve got a ton of rusted fasteners I saw throughout the video, take 10 mins and go around giving shots of PB on every but, bolt, fastener. Even of you're not doing anything with it at that moment, it'll still seep ndown the thread and keep it from locking up. Those two stripped screws would still be alive today =/ (Impact screwdriver also works wonders for stubborn bolts and screws!)
Thanks for the feedback and tips. Yeah, this car was quite rusty. I haven't tried PB blaster yet, I'm trying to finish off my WD40 before going out to get some though.
Your videos are technically good, practical, and well edited. I am sure it took you quite some time to capture the video and edit it. Thank you. Keep it up.
Hey this was great, thanks. I just learned how to do all this on my Toyota but it was quite different from lot of other videos I watched first (IAC being underneath). Now I need to do my friends Honda that I'm sort of looking after and I'm glad to see this was very similar to the Toyota, so I shouldn't have any problems. Great videos like this give me confidence to tackle stuff I mightn't do otherwise.
After cleaning the IAC, I still had idle "surging", until I gave the IAC some vibration using a small hammer and long ratchet extension. This was enough to loosen up the IAC motor and allow it to fall into it's correct position. I now have a steady idle at about 800 RPM. I realize that I may need to replace the IAC valve later, but the part is not very expensive. For now, I have a nice running engine on my Honda Accord 2005. "Dad's toothbrush", I like your sense of humor. ;)
i love how everyone makes these videos and dont explain what exactly goes wrong when its clogged or dirty they just instantly go for it and say yeah just gonna clean it
Just like he says, when the 2.4L has say about 70K to 200K miles +\- and the engine sits for weeks or months, the IACV will absolutely get seized. I guarantee this procedure works to remedy the error code. - Note: The system may or may not throw an OBD code yet the idle will fluctuate.
I'm happy to see that you took out the air intake hose attached to the airbox at the same time. I ripped 2 of those damn hoses trying to get it detached from the throttle and airbox. Dayumm...
A very good video! I was concerned at first when your body was blocking much of what you were doing, but once the TB was off, you should good closeups of the TB. Good tip on replacing gaskets. It sucks not having new ones before you start, only to have to take it all apart after you drive out to buy new ones! My tip: use vise grips to clamp the coolant lines closed before taking them off, and plug them with a bolt before coolant flows out. At this point you can remove the vise grip or simply leave it on until it's all reassembled. If using the red straw on the spray can, always hold the straw when spraying into the engine's openings. It suck to have the straw fly off into the engine. It's not fun taking the engine apart for something that could have been avoided! I learned the hard way many years ago...
Great video my man, straight to the point, nicely edited, no jabbering on about meaningless crap. Thanks to you I will be doing this exact thing to my daughters 03 CRV today, with this video on my phone nearby... thanks!!
Great video. watching this because I got P0507 and P1157 after doing my own rack and pinion. So weird how those pop after doing some major work. They were both legit too, my o2 sensor was blown out on one side and my IAC is definitely sticking like it hadn't before. Had an intermittent CEL before all that so it was probably telling me something lol. I tried to clean the IAC but didn't want to deal with messing something up on those tiny torx bolts and not having a spare. So I'm buying one now to replace the original and clean that one up for when that non-oem spare will probably fail! Oh, and I thought I had a lot of miles when I noticed that car's mileage, my Accord is at 269500 and still feels strong! I probably should have replaced that PCV long ago too! Thanks for the video!
Thank you, I need to do this job and your video was well done. One side note: those fittings that the coolant lines connect to become very brittle after a longer period of time. I developed a pinhole in mine. Not something you can replace without replacing the throttle body. If yours breaks/leaks, you can connect those coolant hoses together to bypass the throttle body. The car doesn’t suffer from any drivability issues or throw any codes.
Great video, one tip I have is get a Snap-On Phillips head screw driver for your screws or a (shake n' break) which is an air impact screw remover. Either one of these will change your life!
Did the exact job on same engine but you can take the idle control module apart and clean it better by moving the valve inside and cleaning it much better by taking off the additional 2 screws
Wao, if all the diy videos were like yours my man Thanks , i was eager to disconect the battery but you make me do it haha i xleaned the throttle body and the idle went to 1200 Stiil didn't slowed so as we speak i disconnected the battery Ill update soon
speedkar99 great video - but please learn how to position the VISE GRIP PLIERS properly ! - you clamped the striped out screw backwards !! Next time when you counter clockwise a screw be sure to clamp pliers in a down position to ease screw out and let the pliers mechanics do it’s Job . FYI
Nice Job! good editing, the facts.. just the facts man. I like it! Your Father and Brother must be proud! (till the next time they brush their teeth, that is! LOL) I will let you know if it helps me, my 98 Acura CL has sat mostly still for a year, I did start it up pretty regular for the first six months and moved it around a little, but was a bit negligent the last six months, had to boost it the last two times. Last time I started it the idle was going from 1,000 to 2000 every few seconds, even after running it up and fully warm. onece the battery charged enough to start the car, I disco'ed positive lead for 5 min to reset computer, no good. (Did that twice, I did!) ...also added 6 litres clean gas and a 50 ml gas line antifreeze to negate water, no good. this is my last attempt to rescue this little tank, with 360 + K's, still love it though. thanks again.
Thanks. Haha yeah that toothbrush sure does come in handy! Skip to 6:25 in my latest video to see it in action again! th-cam.com/video/oXYHtoTCdFY/w-d-xo.html All the best on your idle fix.
Honda people should be aware that they do not use Phillips screws. I know it looks like Phillips, but it's not. It's called Japanese Industrial Standard, or JIS. JIS screws have a deeper cut, and JIS screwdrivers have a longer point, allowing for more torque and a tighter screw. Using a Phillips screwdrier on a tight JIS screw is guaranteed to strip.
Sir, my car i20 engine rpm up to 1100 from very low 650 rpm when iscv is disconnected. However, it drops to the same low 650 rpm when connected. How to restore normal rpm to 850??
got the iacv screws off on mine and replaced them with tiny hex heads, to get the screws off a friend used an impact screwdriver that torques it loose when it compresses when you hit the end, got all 4 off in one try
Great video buddy! At 4:40 that's a MAP sensor which stands for Manifold Absolute Pressure (sensor) but its similar to mass airflow sensor. I have to do so many fixes to my accord 😣
Great video! My 05 Accord has low idle at times after starting, it pulled a code that this needed to be replaced. I was going to just clean it. But thinking I’ll replace it.
UPDATE; so I replaced the IACV with Honda part now. Started up great did the relearn on first try and is running like new! No more fluctuating idle. So I recommend just spend the money and buy it directly from Honda
Thank You for this tip, I did not know it was an industry standard fitment. I have used a die grinder and cut a Slot in the screw head for removals, never had much luck with vise grips.
I have australia version 2016 odyssey with k24w earth dream engine, i feel my idle may be 50-100rpm too low and there is a slight vibration on the steering wheel, ive replaced new spark plugs, coil, pcv valve, nsw engine oil and problem still there. Any thought on how i can fix it? Thank you
Hey I know it's been a while since you made this video, but i need to clean my IAC, my PVC and my TPS, is it possible for you to loan me your dad's or your brother's toothbrush?
Hey thanks for the content. How did you clean the PCV valve? It wasn't shown on camera. I'm going to try this myself for the 1st time and I don't want to make any mistakes. Thanks in advance.
does this method also apply to a 2012 Honda pilot? Having some idling issues and wanted to give this a try. I pulled and cleaned the PCV valve and I could still hear the ball clicking, also I cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, but I haven’t done the IAC valve yet.
you’re original.. & so classic. dads tooth brush, & then brothers tooth brush.. & then , LMAO when u said “after chugging ur favorite adult beverage” .. i gotta subscribe to this bro right here..
Get your supplies and tools here to clean your IACV and throttle body:
Throttle body cleaner:
amzn.to/3hAl52F (US)
amzn.to/3liEhmE (Canada)
3/8" Ratchet set:
amzn.to/3hA7LLD (US)
amzn.to/3zgHE2d (Canada)
I hope you cleaned your Dad and brothers toothbrushes before you put them back in the bathroom!!!
@@lisawong826 Sure😎
what year honda is this?
Are you telling me you don't have JS philips head screwdrivers? Those dang things are only really needed for idle air control valves. Not sure why those are the only screw heads a regular philips won't work on.
Getting ready to replace the cruise control linkage on my 03 Honda, this video will be of great help. Dorman makes a kit to replace the plastic linkage on those, 977-100 if anyone needs it. Thanks a bunch for this video!
This ranks right up among the top DIY mechanic videos. No BS or excessive gobbledygook lingo - straightforward and professional grade editing. Right on, Speedkar99!
+Doctorhamfat thank you, short and to the point is my style!
I sure agree with you sir. A complete service, with good care and proper coolant level detail by the end. It made a ten point rank video.
Sameone straight forward. Too the point.a true teacher
Totally agree
@@speedkar99which nut is the adjustment nut for the throttle body, the one below the bracket?
By far one of the BEST diy videos on auto repair. Real clear instructions, video angles, and exactly what needs to be done, to the point. Thank you.
I agree! His description to with codes and supplies also makes me feel reassured to start my DIY since I got a P0505 on 1999 Honda CRV yesterday!
Well aome is wrong. Haha
I am impressed with the quick straight forward explanation on how to get it done!
Your video has reached the other side of the world.
Many people in South Korea have recommended this video, thank you :)
DUDE, THIS IS HOW YOU TH-cam. Short, sweet and right down to it. Thank you for saving me a trip to the computer and an hour of sifting through thread arguments about nonsense.
This dude has some of the smoothest, skilled hands I've seen for a mechanic.
You are extremely thorough and explain every part that you disconnect or touch. It helps a ton. Thank you!
Glad it helped
Among all the video ive ever seen, This one is the most excellent, brilliant and complete tutorial step by step how to remove and clean The TB and IAC, very simple but perfect. Bravo..
I really appreciate the style of these videos, step by step with a little description to help you understand what each thing your disconnecting is doing. Still new to the way car engines work so I get a little worried when something happens to my car but this video was very helpful good stuff
Awesome. Glad you enjoyed my series
Sweet ..
Informative..
No Music..
Step by Step ..
No nonsense...
Excellent
5 Stars
Good video man! Straight to the point with no fluff. Love the toothbrush comments and the blooper at the end.
Haha yep that's my style thanks
This is the best video I've found on doing this procedure. Thanks!
I just replaced my Idle Air Control valve. I inspected the old one and discovered why Honda calls it a rotary air control valve. The valves consists of a rotary shutter on two sealed ball bearings. They do not need cleaned, but rather lubricated. Using carb or brake cleaner will impair the ball bearings from working by drying up what lubrication they have left, making your problem worse! Mine was "sticky" I lubricated the ball bearings and it turns as smooth as "silk". DO NOT CLEAN THEM, OIL THEM!
+John Pitcavage good tip, thanks for the insight.
What type of oil did you use to lube them?
This advise saved me!Thank you!!I cleaned it out and it wouldn’t work.But after scrolling down and reading this comment ,I took it all off again and sprayed some penetrating-lubricating oil and it work.I couldn’t believe it.Thank you!’
John, thank you for the advice. Have surging idle. Just replaced a broken IAC valve with a used one (that I cleaned) and while the car runs better, it still isn't driveable. Going to pull the IAC and soak it in penetrating oil.
John Pitcavage like WD- 40 type penetrating oil??????
You, sir are true DIY'r and a true TH-camr, the way it used to be.
I absolutely love the way you told me everything you were doing while you were doing. I did not have to rewind at all. You also kept it entertaining. Thanks. Frfr. Bc I'm a female learning how to fix my own car, alone. So I'm definately going to subscribe...
Glad you appreciate my teaching style
I didn’t watch the whole video but I’m subscribing … you do an excellent job explaining what you are doing
You have a cool channel. Even though I can't do my own repairs it helps me know my mechanic is earning his money.
Thanks I'm glad you appreciate
Great video but the only thing I would have done different is replace the throttle valve gasket for future leaks.
Good tip
Awesome video, very well edited and clear. Easy to follow step by step w/o unnecessary talking or sidetrack babbling.
Thank You Very Much,
D.
+David thanks, short and to the point is my style. Check out my other videos for more.
Great video, especially the added mention of check and clean the PCV (Crankcase vent) Valve, when this valve gets sticky, like you said causes all sorts of other issues. Back to your cleaning of the IACV, one thing that I do when removing and replacing all engine mounting bolts is clean the shank and threads on the wire wheel then apply Anti-Seize. Due to the dis-similar metals of the steel bolt and aluminum block, it creates a source of electrical corrosion. This is why it is difficult to remove (especially the first time removal) the bolts. not because they are really tight, its is because of the dis-similar metal corrosion built up between the metal surface of the bolts and the aluminum casting and eventually become seized to the point we break then off and need to remove the broken studs. A little cleaning and application of Anti-Seize or any lubricant can go along way to make next time removals go much easier. Thank You again, a very well done [Short & to the point] instructional video.
Regardless, you are a no nonsense mechanic that does things right, just like me, I'm a no nonsense bicycle mechanic (since 1967)), that does things right. Good Work.
Thanks
Nononsense is the right way to show and learn
If only everyone followed your method of producing these videos. Awesome! I came here to see if a buzzing sound at some lower rpms in my '12 Si could be a sticky pcv valve.
Great job editing. My suggestion is add a before and after analysis to see how much you improved the idle by doing this work. Again, great video!
Hey Bro? Your Dad and your brother both keep calling my house wanting to know if I have seen their toothbrushes. Good video. Thanks.
Fantastic video - conveys a lot of information understandibly and quickly. And funny, too. Very likable guy who will probably be a TH-cam star soon enough.
Soon soon...one day
"My dad's toothbrush" had me cracking up. Thanks for the video man. Gonna do this tomorrow
I had to use someones toothbrush.
Great, no nonsense info. (I'll bet your dad or brother doesn't smile often) Instruction fast and great because we have a pause button. Thank you very much!
Thanks, yeah I like to keep my videos paced to not be too boring
Those coolant lines were killing me. I didn’t think to take the tb off first. Props to you sir
+thomas weber Thanks
Excellent video. High resolution. Nice and steady too. I got stuck reassembling the accelerator cables. Had a heck of a time getting one back on and routing it correctly.
Thanks.
Clear and concise, well made tutorial. Only one thing I wanted to add: PB BLASTER!!!! Ypouve got a ton of rusted fasteners I saw throughout the video, take 10 mins and go around giving shots of PB on every but, bolt, fastener.
Even of you're not doing anything with it at that moment, it'll still seep ndown the thread and keep it from locking up. Those two stripped screws would still be alive today =/ (Impact screwdriver also works wonders for stubborn bolts and screws!)
Thanks for the feedback and tips. Yeah, this car was quite rusty. I haven't tried PB blaster yet, I'm trying to finish off my WD40 before going out to get some though.
As other's have expressed, well shot, and explained, with a touch of humour. Very helpful.
Glad you appreciate my video
Your videos are technically good, practical, and well edited. I am sure it took you quite some time to capture the video and edit it. Thank you. Keep it up.
Yes I've put alot of research before filming. I hope it helped
Hey this was great, thanks. I just learned how to do all this on my Toyota but it was quite different from lot of other videos I watched first (IAC being underneath). Now I need to do my friends Honda that I'm sort of looking after and I'm glad to see this was very similar to the Toyota, so I shouldn't have any problems. Great videos like this give me confidence to tackle stuff I mightn't do otherwise.
312 thousand on the clock of that accord. I just did this to my accord today. 330,800 on the clock. These k motors are really something special.
This video is perfect.. great editing. Straight to the point and minimal talking.
+anthony serrato thanks
Short and to the point is my style! Check out my other videos for more
After cleaning the IAC, I still had idle "surging", until I gave the IAC some vibration using a small hammer and long ratchet extension. This was enough to loosen up the IAC motor and allow it to fall into it's correct position. I now have a steady idle at about 800 RPM. I realize that I may need to replace the IAC valve later, but the part is not very expensive. For now, I have a nice running engine on my Honda Accord 2005. "Dad's toothbrush", I like your sense of humor. ;)
Good you were able to fix it. Mine still had high idle
@@speedkar99 RockAuto has the IAC for about $60. ;)
i love how everyone makes these videos and dont explain what exactly goes wrong when its clogged or dirty they just instantly go for it and say yeah just gonna clean it
+Bookem Herakd thats the way to do it. Thanks
Just like he says, when the 2.4L has say about 70K to 200K miles +\- and the engine sits for weeks or months, the IACV will absolutely get seized. I guarantee this procedure works to remedy the error code.
- Note: The system may or may not throw an OBD code yet the idle will fluctuate.
Yep
I'm happy to see that you took out the air intake hose attached to the airbox at the same time.
I ripped 2 of those damn hoses trying to get it detached from the throttle and airbox.
Dayumm...
A very good video! I was concerned at first when your body was blocking much of what you were doing, but once the TB was off, you should good closeups of the TB. Good tip on replacing gaskets. It sucks not having new ones before you start, only to have to take it all apart after you drive out to buy new ones!
My tip: use vise grips to clamp the coolant lines closed before taking them off, and plug them with a bolt before coolant flows out. At this point you can remove the vise grip or simply leave it on until it's all reassembled.
If using the red straw on the spray can, always hold the straw when spraying into the engine's openings. It suck to have the straw fly off into the engine. It's not fun taking the engine apart for something that could have been avoided! I learned the hard way many years ago...
Thanks for the tips
Great video my man, straight to the point, nicely edited, no jabbering on about meaningless crap. Thanks to you I will be doing this exact thing to my daughters 03 CRV today, with this video on my phone nearby... thanks!!
All the best
Worked like a charm, she is up and running again! 👍
One of the best car videos I have ever seen very concise sure hope he makes lots of these videos.
I have a whole series of videos
Best auto tutorial I have seen in a great while, thank you for sharing your knoweledge!
Wow, thanks!
Great video. watching this because I got P0507 and P1157 after doing my own rack and pinion. So weird how those pop after doing some major work. They were both legit too, my o2 sensor was blown out on one side and my IAC is definitely sticking like it hadn't before. Had an intermittent CEL before all that so it was probably telling me something lol. I tried to clean the IAC but didn't want to deal with messing something up on those tiny torx bolts and not having a spare. So I'm buying one now to replace the original and clean that one up for when that non-oem spare will probably fail! Oh, and I thought I had a lot of miles when I noticed that car's mileage, my Accord is at 269500 and still feels strong! I probably should have replaced that PCV long ago too! Thanks for the video!
This is the best video on you tube i follwed your steps and did it myself. Thanks man your vids are the best!
Your welcome!
This is now my go to guy!! Good job on video! No bull crap straight to the point. I give it a 10
Thank you, I need to do this job and your video was well done.
One side note: those fittings that the coolant lines connect to become very brittle after a longer period of time. I developed a pinhole in mine. Not something you can replace without replacing the throttle body. If yours breaks/leaks, you can connect those coolant hoses together to bypass the throttle body. The car doesn’t suffer from any drivability issues or throw any codes.
Great video, one tip I have is get a Snap-On Phillips head screw driver for your screws or a (shake n' break) which is an air impact screw remover. Either one of these will change your life!
Good tip for those IAC screws!
Good editing and straite to the points. Your comedy was spot on. Thanks. Now to do some cleaning of my own.
+Scot Johnson glad you enjoyed my video style
Good job and editing to get to the main points
+nygirl5 Thanks, short and to the point is my style.
Did the exact job on same engine but you can take the idle control module apart and clean it better by moving the valve inside and cleaning it much better by taking off the additional 2 screws
Wao, if all the diy videos were like yours my man
Thanks , i was eager to disconect the battery but you make me do it haha i xleaned the throttle body and the idle went to 1200
Stiil didn't slowed so as we speak i disconnected the battery
Ill update soon
Excellent video! Thank you so much. My car is starting fine now.
Great job at description and repair. Great humor and jokes. Very helpful.
+Art Lawe thanks I'm glad you enjoyed it
That was totally amazing doing the whole works makes it soo much easier giving it all a clean. Excellent job.
Thanks glad it worked
This video was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
+Ryan Harrast glad you enjoyed it thanks
Wow, best video of this procedure by far. Thanks a bunch
You are we. Glad it helped
This is a very well explained video! I wish someone did one on the RSX but I assume this is a similar process.
Yes the K series is very similar
Brilliant informative video, not an ounce of fat on that video. One of the best i've seen, just subscribed. ty
+Johnny Thanks, short and to the point is how its supposed to be done.
Great video. Well edited. All necessary information to make this maintenance item. Thank you!
+Gonso2014 Thanks for the feedback
This video was great and awesome!!! You didn't show how you cleaned the PCV valve though.
"dad's tooth brush" LOL. great video
+CreateYourWorth yea thanks !
speedkar99 n
speedkar99 great video - but please learn how to position the VISE GRIP PLIERS properly ! - you clamped the striped out screw backwards !! Next time when you counter clockwise a screw be sure to clamp pliers in a down position to ease screw out and let the pliers mechanics do it’s Job .
FYI
I find my wife's toothbrush to work best, but I mostly find myself alone...
00
great video... to the point, well edited so its not drawn out, using
your pops toothbrush, spraying carb cleaner in my eyes... love it!
subscribed
+Miguel Haha thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed my video, that toothbrush makes its appearance in a few of my other videos.
nice.. i was checking some of them out.. your extremely talented and knowledgeable... thank you for sharing, entertaining, and educating!!
Well edited; great info; easy to understand. Good work, and thanks!
+RTLL Thanks, short and to the point is my style.
That's how u make one of the best yt videos ever! 9.5
Nice Job! good editing, the facts.. just the facts man. I like it! Your Father and Brother must be proud! (till the next time they brush their teeth, that is! LOL) I will let you know if it helps me, my 98 Acura CL has sat mostly still for a year, I did start it up pretty regular for the first six months and moved it around a little, but was a bit negligent the last six months, had to boost it the last two times. Last time I started it the idle was going from 1,000 to 2000 every few seconds, even after running it up and fully warm. onece the battery charged enough to start the car, I disco'ed positive lead for 5 min to reset computer, no good. (Did that twice, I did!) ...also added 6 litres clean gas and a 50 ml gas line antifreeze to negate water, no good. this is my last attempt to rescue this little tank, with 360 + K's, still love it though.
thanks again.
Thanks. Haha yeah that toothbrush sure does come in handy! Skip to 6:25 in my latest video to see it in action again!
th-cam.com/video/oXYHtoTCdFY/w-d-xo.html
All the best on your idle fix.
Just a simple and GREAT video. Thank you very much for sharing it. It helped me very much.
Glad it helped
You guys really professional 👍👍👍 really great video sir
Good job of not wasting my time. Excellent
+Larry Pilkey Glad you found it useful
Very very informative thatnk you so much, i feel much more confident doing work like this with GREAT QUALITY step by step instructions, 10/10! 🤟
thank you, my accord was bouncing on idle. this fixed it right up!
Glad it helped
Did it make your accord drive funny? On accelerating?
Is the default position of the iac when disconnected form the vehicle, with no power, open?
Honda people should be aware that they do not use Phillips screws. I know it looks like Phillips, but it's not. It's called Japanese Industrial Standard, or JIS. JIS screws have a deeper cut, and JIS screwdrivers have a longer point, allowing for more torque and a tighter screw. Using a Phillips screwdrier on a tight JIS screw is guaranteed to strip.
Sir, my car i20 engine rpm up to 1100 from very low 650 rpm when iscv is disconnected. However, it drops to the same low 650 rpm when connected.
How to restore normal rpm to 850??
got the iacv screws off on mine and replaced them with tiny hex heads, to get the screws off a friend used an impact screwdriver that torques it loose when it compresses when you hit the end, got all 4 off in one try
Quick question. I am seeing two different gaskets for the throttle body. One is paper and one is rubber. Is there a difference? Thanks
Yes
Btw your getting closer to 10k congrats!
:o
Straight to the point. Thanks for the great video, man!
You are welcome
That’s one helluva instruction video. Thanks bud!
Hose clamps are great for preventing coolant from going anywhere. 👍
thank you! now i can do on my own without spending too much!
+Ronald glad my video helped
Great video buddy!
At 4:40 that's a MAP sensor which stands for Manifold Absolute Pressure (sensor) but its similar to mass airflow sensor. I have to do so many fixes to my accord 😣
+Geo Gabri thanks
Manifold Air Pressure sensor. No Absolute about it.
Great video! My 05 Accord has low idle at times after starting, it pulled a code that this needed to be replaced. I was going to just clean it. But thinking I’ll replace it.
You can try to clean it. For me, I still had a high idle issue
speedkar99 what ended up fixing the issue?
UPDATE; so I replaced the IACV with Honda part now. Started up great did the relearn on first try and is running like new! No more fluctuating idle. So I recommend just spend the money and buy it directly from Honda
you need a jis (Japanese industry standard) screwdriver for those screws on the idle air control valve
Thank You for this tip, I did not know it was an industry standard fitment. I have used a die grinder and cut a Slot in the screw head for removals, never had much luck with vise grips.
I have australia version 2016 odyssey with k24w earth dream engine, i feel my idle may be 50-100rpm too low and there is a slight vibration on the steering wheel, ive replaced new spark plugs, coil, pcv valve, nsw engine oil and problem still there. Any thought on how i can fix it? Thank you
Good video without extra nonsense
Hey I know it's been a while since you made this video, but i need to clean my IAC, my PVC and my TPS, is it possible for you to loan me your dad's or your brother's toothbrush?
Hey thanks for the content. How did you clean the PCV valve? It wasn't shown on camera. I'm going to try this myself for the 1st time and I don't want to make any mistakes. Thanks in advance.
If you take it out you can clean using parts cleaner. It's cheap enough to replace
does this method also apply to a 2012 Honda pilot? Having some idling issues and wanted to give this a try. I pulled and cleaned the PCV valve and I could still hear the ball clicking, also I cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, but I haven’t done the IAC valve yet.
you’re original.. & so classic. dads tooth brush, & then brothers tooth brush.. & then , LMAO when u said “after chugging ur favorite adult beverage” .. i gotta subscribe to this bro right here..
Thanks for subscribing 😃
Nice 👍 Thank you for taking your time to made the Video
Seriously good video, subscribing now! Love the dad and brothers toothbrushes too. 😂
Thanks for subscribing
05 accords have a MAF sensor, but do not have an IAT sensor. iat is integrated into the MAF. just sits near the intake air box
Is there a recommended time to perform this cleaning job or do you just wait until you get an engine light?
Great video! Best IAC video I seen! Thx
Your welcome
Best and direct tutorial, nice 🎉
6:44 how did you clean it? Same as throttle body? (Throttle body cleaner?)
Very nice and clean work thank you all the pros out there to help lots of people 😊😊😊
What changes would you make if you were doing the same procedure on a 2004 or 2005 TSX with a fly by wire system? Thanks for making great videos!