Helpful video. I see now where I went wrong. Drinking a beer and thinking that'll remember how the belt goes back on. Thanks for steering me back in the right direction 👍
You are welcome. I’m glad that it helped you out. Don’t be afraid to have a beer, you can always look at the video and figure it out when you’re sober lol.
I have 2 cubs . ltx 1042 kw 22 hp V TWIN bought in 2016 and new one bought this spring ltx 1046 23 HP V TWIN I did also have to take off the hov covers that leaked and used black permatex to reseal them .I had a troy built 2017 model but sold it and replaced it with the new cubby . I live on a hill and troy built only had 2 anti scalping wheels cubs have 4 and my ziosa grass is thick so replaced the blades with gator blades , cgops the gras finer and last longer and don't need sharpened . Sold troy built new gator blades , new belts , gas filter and oil filter like brand new for 800 dollars . Got deal on new cubby sells for 22 hundred got it for just under 19 hundred brand new and that was with taxes WIN WIN AND PUT GATOR BLADES ON IT THE FIRST MONTH
I took out the starter and it gave me enough room to not have to take out the battery at all. I came in from the back of the retention clip with a flat head screwdriver that was inside the 'dash' behind the steering column. One slight twist, and the clip was out of the way. I heard a lot of grumbles about that clip, so hopefully this helps someone get there easier. Just waiting on the parts now....
I have the same mower but keep going through belts. The belt that is recommended for mine is 138” long but what is happening I believe is that the idler pully on the tensioner is allow to swing to far and when the pto is on the belt on the tensioner hits itself where the belt is going back to the right side pulley and hits the pulley edge roughing it up until it breaks. I see you belt is what 135” . Maybe I need a shorter bet that would allow the tension pulley to move more towards the pto pulley making the distance farther away from the belt to come in contact with itself . Hope you can interpret what I’m trying to say?
I would give a shorter belt a try. That belt shouldn’t move around as much as you’re saying. My belt has been working fine all year but it does show signs of wear.
the belt on mine rides super high on the idler and the mower keeps throwing the belt when I engage the pto...thinking about putting some spacers under the idler pulley to raise it up.
The belt guide under the engine is right up against the belt. The belt gets really hot, is the metal guide supposed to be touching the belt like that? I know the purpose of the guide but the belt rubbing against metal at that speed for a long duration doesn't make sense to me. Any idea? Is yours like that?
Yeah mine is like that too. I’ve never understood the mechanics of that one either, that’s why I bought 2 of them. I’m only 2/3 through the season right now and it’s already looking kinda frayed. Ever since Cub Cadet was bought out by MTD it has gone down hill.
I called tech support today at cub cadet and asked them if the deck belt supposed to be rubbing against the "U" shaped belt guide under the engine. They said the belt should not be touching anything other than the spindles. So today I forcibly bent the metal belt guide away from the belt about two inches. I ran it for about 15 minutes and it now seems fine, belt no longer rubbing. I am tired of paying $70 each time to replace the belt. I think this is my best solution. @@pilgrimsgarage
Yes it does. He (me) just gave it a pull. It is a bit on the stout side but you can overcome it with a little uumph. I find it best to grab the belt and pull it over the one of the spindles while it’s in the tensioner. It isn’t terribly hard. Hopefully that helps.
At 2:12 where he snaps the belt between that bracket and the pulley, notice the square hole on the bracket? Put a ratchet with a cheater pipe in there and leverage it toward the front of the tractor while you put the belt on the crank pulley.
![[QUICK FIX!] Craftsman riding mower belt replacement and deck leveling](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/POvFQswhod4/mqdefault.jpg)
Helpful video. I see now where I went wrong.
Drinking a beer and thinking that'll remember how the belt goes back on. Thanks for steering me back in the right direction 👍
You are welcome. I’m glad that it helped you out. Don’t be afraid to have a beer, you can always look at the video and figure it out when you’re sober lol.
HUGE BIG thanks! You saved me a lot of frustration!😊
You’re welcome. I love it when I can help.
Most helpful video out! Thank you!
Thank you for that.
Best Video sir. Cub Cadet needs to take notes on how to make a video like this!
Thank you. That is quite the compliment!
I have 2 cubs . ltx 1042 kw 22 hp V TWIN bought in 2016 and new one bought this spring ltx 1046 23 HP V TWIN I did also have to take off the hov covers that leaked and used black permatex to reseal them .I had a troy built 2017 model but sold it and replaced it with the new cubby . I live on a hill and troy built only had 2 anti scalping wheels cubs have 4 and my ziosa grass is thick so replaced the blades with gator blades , cgops the gras finer and last longer and don't need sharpened . Sold troy built new gator blades , new belts , gas filter and oil filter like brand new for 800 dollars . Got deal on new cubby sells for 22 hundred got it for just under 19 hundred brand new and that was with taxes WIN WIN AND PUT GATOR BLADES ON IT THE FIRST MONTH
I took out the starter and it gave me enough room to not have to take out the battery at all. I came in from the back of the retention clip with a flat head screwdriver that was inside the 'dash' behind the steering column. One slight twist, and the clip was out of the way. I heard a lot of grumbles about that clip, so hopefully this helps someone get there easier. Just waiting on the parts now....
Good information right there. Thank you for the tip!
I have the same mower but keep going through belts. The belt that is recommended for mine is 138” long but what is happening I believe is that the idler pully on the tensioner is allow to swing to far and when the pto is on the belt on the tensioner hits itself where the belt is going back to the right side pulley and hits the pulley edge roughing it up until it breaks. I see you belt is what 135” . Maybe I need a shorter bet that would allow the tension pulley to move more towards the pto pulley making the distance farther away from the belt to come in contact with itself . Hope you can interpret what I’m trying to say?
I would give a shorter belt a try. That belt shouldn’t move around as much as you’re saying. My belt has been working fine all year but it does show signs of wear.
the belt on mine rides super high on the idler and the mower keeps throwing the belt when I engage the pto...thinking about putting some spacers under the idler pulley to raise it up.
Have you changed the mower spindles? It should line up fine.
The belt guide under the engine is right up against the belt. The belt gets really hot, is the metal guide supposed to be touching the belt like that? I know the purpose of the guide but the belt rubbing against metal at that speed for a long duration doesn't make sense to me. Any idea? Is yours like that?
Yeah mine is like that too. I’ve never understood the mechanics of that one either, that’s why I bought 2 of them. I’m only 2/3 through the season right now and it’s already looking kinda frayed. Ever since Cub Cadet was bought out by MTD it has gone down hill.
I called tech support today at cub cadet and asked them if the deck belt supposed to be rubbing against the "U" shaped belt guide under the engine. They said the belt should not be touching anything other than the spindles. So today I forcibly bent the metal belt guide away from the belt about two inches. I ran it for about 15 minutes and it now seems fine, belt no longer rubbing. I am tired of paying $70 each time to replace the belt. I think this is my best solution. @@pilgrimsgarage
As long as there is a small gap between the guide belt and the pulley then your good.
Very informative video. I guessing this procedure is the same for a 2014 LTX1050 50". I don't think there should be any real difference.
I would have to agree. This is a 2012.
Lucky, my belts are $80 each
Ugh. Maybe get the length and width and see about an alternative. It’s super easy to change.
it does not explain how he overcame the belt tension to pull the deck back to the spring bolt attachments!!!!
Yes it does. He (me) just gave it a pull. It is a bit on the stout side but you can overcome it with a little uumph. I find it best to grab the belt and pull it over the one of the spindles while it’s in the tensioner. It isn’t terribly hard. Hopefully that helps.
At 2:12 where he snaps the belt between that bracket and the pulley, notice the square hole on the bracket? Put a ratchet with a cheater pipe in there and leverage it toward the front of the tractor while you put the belt on the crank pulley.
Just sub buddy I was 999
You are the man!!! By the way, moosestangls is a great channel name! Thank you.