This LTX50 is one of the worst overall mowers I’ve ever owned. The deck belt is just the maddening icing on the cake. This made it much easier for me so thank you for that. I just have to limp though the end of this season then mine off to the junk yard.
I have the same mower, bought used (154 hrs) belt came off with one 12` strip left to mow. I got stuck at the tension spring removal, now I can finish an get mowing. Thanks, better "class" than I'd hoped for. Also found out yesterday the one I bought it from kicks himself for selling it. I agree with him; but I'm not selling it back. Thanks again!
Ditch the 1/2” belt and replace with 3/4” belt. You can do a deep dive on the interwebs like I did to validate using a 3/4” belt, or forego that and save yourself a lot of frustration breaking 1/2” belts
help me out then...calls for 1/2 x 162 inch, don't like yearly replacement...what do you recommend? I'll gladly go to either 5/8 or 3/4, I really don't know how to allow for length.
@@gregorytarana8104 go with 3/4 inch x 162” no need to compensate length. The increase in diameter and how it affects length is negligible. The spring tensioner will compensate for the minuscule increase. Also, be sure to grease the zerk fittings on your pulleys to minimize friction. (If the pulley(s) have too much resistance after greasing - test it with belt off - it’s time to replace it/them.
I’ve been through this for a few years. Finally figured it out. The problem is the spring tensioner is so tight it damages the pulleys and belts. And the transition from the clutch to the pulleys too steep. You can see that there is another hole for the deck tensioner pulley bolt. Move it there. And then replace the pulleys with stens 280-402. It’s a taller pulley that won’t chafe the belts. Get rid of that jam nut and use washers for just enough height that the pulley doesn’t rub.
I'm chewing through belts. I moved the bolt. I'll try the pulleys now. Do you do both idlers? I also can't figure out which nut to remove and replace with washers
@@Porgysashimi yes both pulleys use only enough washers that the pulley doesn’t rub. Also if you have the type with a belt guide under the pulley just get rid of it or go back to the old kind that mounts on top. I hav no guides currently and use cheap $12 belts no kevlar
I made the mistake the first time of not getting the bracket right around the pto clutch,and when I engaged it,it jerked the wiring out of the pto clutch. 170 bucks later for a new pto clutch from Amazon and I was good to go. Lol
I made the same mistake. But I found a way to repair it because I still had some length of wire sticking out of the clutch. I did a video on it: th-cam.com/video/9B49p72k0yE/w-d-xo.html
If you really want the zerk fittings where you can grease the spindles easier,, you can get the fitting needed to run remote grease lines up through the deck and a block just under one step so you can pump the grease with even removing the deck. Yes, it is a pain in the ass, but only once!
So I see the belt size based on the manual says .50 x 162.9. I had one that was 162 and it rubbed something are broke within five minutes. I didn’t have a metal rod keeper like you do but I’ve not had one since I got the mower years ago. I put the belt on just as I have before too. I’m hoping that this next belt works because this cub cadet is beyond infuriating.
At 6:18 in the video, I show the new pulley still in its package. The number on it is 753-08171. I just got it from my local Cub Cadet dealer, but it's probably also available online.
Hey guys, I've broken 3 belts in the last 3 mowings.last mowing i was finished and after mowing knee high grass, coming back to house the belt just snapped??? I think the belt just gets too hot. Maybe mow in 2 or 3 increments. Having the same problems everyone else is having. Belt is Kevlar 160.900 × 1/2 from Amazon . Belt was too hot to touch .any thoughts.
Does anyone have a tip for reconnecting the deck to the mower, at the back? I am having a heck of a time getting the black spring things to get through the holes on the black arms. The ones that lift the deck. Should I take the cables off?
A few things I've found: 1. Connect them first before the front an rear sway bars. 2. Raise or lower the deck height control lever until it's closest to where you want it to be. (This also helps get the rear sway bar in place.) 3. Pull the pins all the way out and rest the tips on the bracket. When you get the holes lines up, just wiggle the pins a little until they snap into place. Admittedly, it's not easy to get at them with any kind of leverage. Maybe use a wire or piece of rope to pull on the pins rather than trying to reach under to pull on them directly?
When I bought my mower used I saw the belt was over the spring. When I had to change the belt two years later I placed it under the spring. It looked like it might rub more and sure enough the belt broke two months later. I’m thinking no two configurations are the same. Thanks for the help, though. Also, that last pulley with the guard refused to loosed and raise. The bolt kept spinning. I had to bend the pulley to squeeze the belt in. What a pain. Anyone else have this issue?
@@countrylivingonashoestring5159 I know. Every CubCadet I've ever worked on had those grease fittings. I've just never gotten a reason why! Can't grease sealed bearings
That's how it came when I bought the tractor. I didn't move it. It's possible some previous owner did, but I don't know. And, it does work where it is.
Your video is very confusing and you never show how you put the belt on or how you got the deck off, you talk too much and you not straight to the point, what a waste of time
![[TH] VCT Pacific Stage 2 - Week 4 Day 3 // GEN vs TS | PRX vs ZETA](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nspkjQuZve0/mqdefault.jpg)
This LTX50 is one of the worst overall mowers I’ve ever owned. The deck belt is just the maddening icing on the cake. This made it much easier for me so thank you for that. I just have to limp though the end of this season then mine off to the junk yard.
I have the same mower, bought used (154 hrs) belt came off with one 12` strip left to mow. I got stuck at the tension spring removal, now I can finish an get mowing. Thanks, better "class" than I'd hoped for.
Also found out yesterday the one I bought it from kicks himself for selling it. I agree with him; but I'm not selling it back. Thanks again!
Just did a follow up video on re-installing the deck.
Thank you for posting these. I have no clue how to work on this mower, but your videos rescued me. Thanks!!!
Glad to have helped. I'm no expert, but I'm just sharing what works for me.
Ditch the 1/2” belt and replace with 3/4” belt.
You can do a deep dive on the interwebs like I did to validate using a 3/4” belt, or forego that and save yourself a lot of frustration breaking 1/2” belts
help me out then...calls for 1/2 x 162 inch, don't like yearly replacement...what do you recommend? I'll gladly go to either 5/8 or 3/4, I really don't know how to allow for length.
@@gregorytarana8104 go with 3/4 inch x 162” no need to compensate length. The increase in diameter and how it affects length is negligible. The spring tensioner will compensate for the minuscule increase. Also, be sure to grease the zerk fittings on your pulleys to minimize friction. (If the pulley(s) have too much resistance after greasing - test it with belt off - it’s time to replace it/them.
Thanks @the1stime , Ill give a 3/4" by 162-163" belt a try next time.
I’ve been through this for a few years. Finally figured it out. The problem is the spring tensioner is so tight it damages the pulleys and belts. And the transition from the clutch to the pulleys too steep. You can see that there is another hole for the deck tensioner pulley bolt. Move it there. And then replace the pulleys with stens 280-402. It’s a taller pulley that won’t chafe the belts. Get rid of that jam nut and use washers for just enough height that the pulley doesn’t rub.
Thanks for the tips!
I'm chewing through belts. I moved the bolt. I'll try the pulleys now. Do you do both idlers? I also can't figure out which nut to remove and replace with washers
Terrible instructions...talk.talk.talk..no action..waste of time.
@@Porgysashimi yes both pulleys use only enough washers that the pulley doesn’t rub. Also if you have the type with a belt guide under the pulley just get rid of it or go back to the old kind that mounts on top. I hav no guides currently and use cheap $12 belts no kevlar
Bondo : do you mean replacing spindle pulleys or tension pulleys or all 5 ?
Thank you ! The instruction manual was worthless. No mention of removing the spring or loosening both pulleys
I made the mistake the first time of not getting the bracket right around the pto clutch,and when I engaged it,it jerked the wiring out of the pto clutch. 170 bucks later for a new pto clutch from Amazon and I was good to go. Lol
I made the same mistake. But I found a way to repair it because I still had some length of wire sticking out of the clutch. I did a video on it: th-cam.com/video/9B49p72k0yE/w-d-xo.html
Take the front left wheel off. Leaves you with more room to pull spring back on. Use Jack and Jack stand.
If you really want the zerk fittings where you can grease the spindles easier,, you can get the fitting needed to run remote grease lines up through the deck and a block just under one step so you can pump the grease with even removing the deck. Yes, it is a pain in the ass, but only once!
Thanks
Old and detailed, thanks
So I see the belt size based on the manual says .50 x 162.9. I had one that was 162 and it rubbed something are broke within five minutes. I didn’t have a metal rod keeper like you do but I’ve not had one since I got the mower years ago. I put the belt on just as I have before too. I’m hoping that this next belt works because this cub cadet is beyond infuriating.
Good information sir. Looking at getting one used from a mom and pop. But I say finance a new 42” instead hoping it’s more reliable and efficient?
Had mine since 2011 that belt layout always gets me and hanging the deck is a pain. Great video.
@@bassman6619 it sold when I went back to take another look. A lot of reviews say it’s a bad deck design though.
What’s the length of the belt
Liquid Wrench and other products work much better that WD-40.
Could you please tell me the part number for that new pulley that you replaced?? Thank you so much
At 6:18 in the video, I show the new pulley still in its package. The number on it is 753-08171. I just got it from my local Cub Cadet dealer, but it's probably also available online.
Hey guys, I've broken 3 belts in the last 3 mowings.last mowing i was finished and after mowing knee high grass, coming back to house the belt just snapped??? I think the belt just gets too hot. Maybe mow in 2 or 3 increments. Having the same problems everyone else is having. Belt is Kevlar 160.900 × 1/2 from Amazon . Belt was too hot to touch .any thoughts.
You answered your own question. "Belt from Amazon".
Sounds like the grass is really high. That's going to make the belt run hotter I would think. JMO
Does anyone have a tip for reconnecting the deck to the mower, at the back? I am having a heck of a time getting the black spring things to get through the holes on the black arms. The ones that lift the deck. Should I take the cables off?
A few things I've found: 1. Connect them first before the front an rear sway bars. 2. Raise or lower the deck height control lever until it's closest to where you want it to be. (This also helps get the rear sway bar in place.) 3. Pull the pins all the way out and rest the tips on the bracket. When you get the holes lines up, just wiggle the pins a little until they snap into place.
Admittedly, it's not easy to get at them with any kind of leverage. Maybe use a wire or piece of rope to pull on the pins rather than trying to reach under to pull on them directly?
When I bought my mower used I saw the belt was over the spring. When I had to change the belt two years later I placed it under the spring. It looked like it might rub more and sure enough the belt broke two months later. I’m thinking no two configurations are the same. Thanks for the help, though. Also, that last pulley with the guard refused to loosed and raise. The bolt kept spinning. I had to bend the pulley to squeeze the belt in. What a pain. Anyone else have this issue?
There is a nut on the bottom side 9/16
@@eboicut7428 Thank you. I found it soon after.
Question;; Why is there a zerk fitting each spindle when MTD used sealed bearings??
Don't know. They were on there when I bought the tractor used.
@@countrylivingonashoestring5159 I know. Every CubCadet I've ever worked on had those grease fittings. I've just never gotten a reason why! Can't grease sealed bearings
Is there supposed to a twist in the belt?
No. Not unless you mean that the belt contacts a couple of pulleys on the back side rather than the "V" side.
What’s the belt size ?
There's a picture of the belt sleeve at the end of the video - it's 1/2"x162"
I think the spring stud is in the wrong hole
That's how it came when I bought the tractor. I didn't move it. It's possible some previous owner did, but I don't know. And, it does work where it is.
Way too much talking and not enough showing
U talk to much
Well, since it's my channel, I'll say what I want. Sorry, if that's not your preference.
Too much talking in circles
Omg this is the longest video what are you even talking about. How about this is how you change the belt and get to the point…
Your video is very confusing and you never show how you put the belt on or how you got the deck off, you talk too much and you not straight to the point, what a waste of time
Try watching this one: th-cam.com/video/YPa0CWTFpvA/w-d-xo.html